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32 W I N S L O W H O M E R ' S B A H A M A S Some of the artist's most powerful - and By Jad Davenport

38 D E E P S E A D I V E R S Large and lumbering sea turtles By Walt Stearns

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46 S L O W BOAT TO P A R A D I S E A local mailboat sets the perfect pace for a Bahamian odyssey B v Andv Harris

Bahamian athletes may leave The I+r7ds By Karen W. Bressler

57-94 F O D O R ' S M I C R O G U I D E Island Scene is pleased to present from the pages of the most recent

101-135 ACCOMMODATIONS A The directory is a comprehensive listi NassauIParadise Island, Grand Baha

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contents DEPARTMENTS 9 LONGITUDEILATITUDE

What's up and what's going down in The Bahamas 16 ISLAND SHOPPING Think Pink

If you'd like to take home a long-legged souvenir, here are some suggestions 18 PEOPLE-TO-PEOPLE High Tea

An elegant repast at the Governor General's mansion allows visitors to meet and greet Bahamian friends By Jake MacDonald 20 UNIQUELY BAHAMIAN Stamps of Approval

Stamps from The Bahamas are collectible and easily transportable -works of art By Rich Rubin

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,24 ISLAND FLAVOR

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So~*$e, johnny cake and boil' fish .%+%. .* , ,s3By Chelle Koster Walton

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Finding fun on The Islands Of The Bahamas By Sandy MacDonald

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Yoga - and meditation soothe the city-stressed soul .By Beth Belton

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28 SELF DISCOVERY An Ashram With A View

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The U.S. Secretary of State pays a visit to Bahamian students

4 ISLAND SCENE winter/Spnng 2003

Off Rose Island

" W H A T I F I F O R G O T T O U N P L U G T H E I R O N BACK H O M E ? " "WHAT'S AN IRON?"

High-energy Shopping Casinos That Thrill 1,000 Shades O f B l u e Soul-stirring Cathedrals T e m p o r a r y M e m o r y Loss Lose Yourself

NASSAU & PARADISE ISLAND The Islands O f The Bahamas \

Call your travel agent

It J u s t K e e p s G e t t i n g B e t t e r e

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baharnar.com

Aaron H. Knowles, Jr. Publisher / Editor-In-Chief

contributors

scene PUBLISHER/EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Aaron H. Knowles, Jr.

FELICITY LONG,

a Massachusetts-based freelance writer, is the recipient of the 2000 Cacique award for travel writing about The Bahamas. Her work has appeared in Child magazine, Travel Weekly and the Boston Herald, among others.

MANAGING EDITOR Martha Thomas ART DIRECTORS Jeffrey Osborne Brendan Stephens EDITORIAL & PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Susan Demers Leopold

JANE E. ZAREM,

a freelance writer and editor based in Weston, Connecticut, first visited Nassau on her honeymoon. In the last ten years, she has returned to The Bahamas almost annually. “When it comes to the world’s best beaches,” she says, “The Bahamas – with more than 700 islands – have cornered the market.” Jane has updated Fodor’s Bahamas guidebook and contributes to Fodor’s Caribbean and Fodor’s Healthy Escapes. Her articles appear regularly in several publications, including For the Bride.

is a contributing editor with Islands magazine, and has written extensively on The Bahamas and Caribbean topics. While researching the 1991 book Columbus and the Age of Discovery, which he co-authored with Zvi Dor-Ner, he retraced much of Christopher Columbus’s route through The Bahamas. Scheller lives with his wife and son in northern Vermont. BILL SCHELLER

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jad Davenport Katharine Delavan Dyson Carolyn Faye Fox Marvin Hunt Felicity Long Sandy MacDonald Rich Rubin Bill Scheller Patience Wales Jane E. Zarem PUBLISHING OFFICE The Spectrum Group, Ltd. No. 6 Musgrove Street P.O. Box N-7937, Nassau, Bahamas Ph: 242-323-3398 Fax: 242-326-2020 Email: IslandScene@batelnet.bs ADVERTISING Local Bahamas Latina Knowles/Janean Gray The Spectrum Group Ph: 242-323-3398 Fax: 242-326-2020 Email: IslandScene@batelnet.bs

is an English professor and travel writer whose stories about The Bahamas have been widely published in magazines and newspapers, including The Atlanta Journal-Constitution, The Washington Post and The New York Times. His story on the super-flock of flamingos on Great Inagua appeared in the December 2000 issue of Island Scene. He lives in Durham, North Carolina. MARVIN HUNT

Former editor-in-chief of SAIL magazine, PAT I E N C E WA L E S has circumnavigated the world by sailboat and has spent years in the tropics. She has cruised The Bahamas six times and is looking forward to her seventh visit.

National Larry Cohen Northeast Media Ph: 203-226-8151 Fax: 203-227-1106 Email: toprep@aol.com Island Scene is published twice a year by The Spectrum Group, Ltd., on behalf of The Bahamas Ministry of Tourism. All rights reserved. Contents © 2002 by The Spectrum Group, Ltd. Nothing may be reproduced, in whole or in part, without written permission from the Publisher. Unless initially specified, all letters addressed to Island Scene, its publishers or its editors are assumed intended for publication. Every effort is made to ensure the accuracy of information and the publisher is not responsible for errors or omissions that may occur. No responsibility accepted for unsolicited material.

I S L A N D S C E N E Winter/Spring 2002 7

H U N T P H O T O B Y G L E N N L E W I S , WA L E S P H O T O B Y D A N A B R A M S

US Based Susan Demers Leopold Irma S. Mann, Strategic Marketing, Inc. Ph: 617-353-1822 Fax: 617-266-1890 Email: IslandScene@irmamann.com

>Outer h ~ a c l Private pilots flying 1 The Islands Of The Bahamas for the firs time might consider taking part in the camaraderie of a "fly-in." These island-hopping excursions are a great chance for pilots anc their companions to explore The Bahama reaching places many tourists never see - in the company of experienced flyers. The monthly gettogethers have such themes as "Conch Out," feauturing a sampling of The Islands' famous shellfish (wh~chi s al: iumored to be an aphrodi 'ac) a n d a diving ff-l~; M r q o s e who wish- to Iearti?o dive or just snorkel with the fish. For informati~n about fly-ins or q i n g a private plane t6 The Islands Of The Bahamas, contact the Ministry of Touri-at 1-800-327-7(

The Bahamas have been described as a flyer's (or was that diver's?) paradise.

Victoria's Secret shot a new catalog at Pink Sands on Harbour Island with supermodel Giselle among others. She previously had been photographed there for Vogue magazine as well.

Given the generous nature of Bahamians, it should be no surprise to learn that Connecticut's Hole in the Wall Gang Camp is a steady recipient of The Bahamas' largess. This worthy organization, founded by Paul Newman for children with cancer and life-threatening blood diseases, provides year-round programs to the affected children, their siblings and their parents. By donating trips to the annual auction, "The Bahamas have helped to generate thousands of dollars for the camp," says Hole in the W a s Knettie Archerd. Over the past years, some $19,000 has been raised for the fund from Bahamas auction prizes. Visit Hole in the Wall's website at www. holeinthewaIIgang.org.

>Bahamasat Your Fingertips You want to hor, a ride on that fast ferry from Nassau to Harbour Island. Your husband7s'upfor some bonefishinion the flats of Exuma. Consult with the experts at Destination Bahamas, the newly designed call center that's like a telephonic shopping mall of Bahamian delights. What you save in phone calls (and frustration) you can spend on that perfect souvenir or night out (which Destination Bahamas will, of course, point you to). Phone 800-BAHAMAS. -

>Charity Case

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~ o u ' r kcanoeing through Bonefish Creek on Cat Island with Fernandez Bay Village's expert guides. Baby rays and sharks swim below; around you are egrets, white-crowned pigeons and terns. As you row, a bubbling, 18-foot-deep abyss appears; it's Boiling Hole, one of Cat's famous Blue Holes, inland but connected to the sea, so there's a boisterous effervescence when the tide changes. Snorkel through this roiling natural wonder and try to spot , one of the mermaids or sea monsters that locals swear live within. Call 242-342-3043., .

10 ISLAND S C E N E Winter/Spnng2(@3

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bee The Bahamas the way you should - by water - by participating In a Bahamas Boating Fling, which brlngs groups of cruisers from Flortda across the Gulf Stream. Refine your seafaring abillties in the safety and companionship of: fellow boaters, with an exper~encedpilot in the "lead boat" to SF-..' way. For informatron, call 800-327-7678

SnorkelFI i ppers You've had your swim with the dolphins; now, with Grand Bahama's Dolphin Experience providing a new "Snorkel with the Dolphins" program, you'll join two Atlantic bottlenose dolphins on a trip along a 45-foot coral reef teeming with fish. Want a more in-depth event? They also offer a Scuba Dive with Dolphins opportunity. It's recommended that you book at least 30 days in advance. Call 800-992-3483.

Those "best of" honors keep pouring in. The American Society of Travel Agents1 Fodor's "hot spot survey" puts Nassau in its Top 10 International Cities (along with such spots as London, Tokyo, Sydney and Rome), while the marriage-minded might be interested to know that Modern Bride magazine recently named The Bahamas one of the "world's best places to tie the knot." With "I do" locales ranging from the stately Cloisters on Paradise Island to a beachside conch shell "wedding aide'' at Bluff House Resort on Green Turtle Cay, we're not surprised. Want to "take the plunge" more literally? Sports illustrated named Harbour Island the best "open-water swim" in the world, calling it "God's own lap pool." The New York Daily News obviously agreed, as it pronounced Harbour Island the globe's number one island destination, placing it ahead of such spots as the Canaries, Majorca, Crete and Capri.

As the celebs continue to pour into Bahamas resorts, so do the honors. Readers of Caribbean Travel & Life magazine, who certainly know tropical islands, had some very nice things to say; in fact, Atlantis was one of the top choices in no less than four categories: Most Opulent Luxury Resort, Best Family Resort for Kids Under 10, Best Family Resort for Kids Over 10 and Best Resort for a Family Reunion. See a pattern emerging here? Not surprising, then, to find the younger generation's idols at this PI hotspot; if you wonder where teen faves 'N Sync filmed their last concert, maybe the title

@4&-K& "'N Sync Live! The Atlantis the twins' own website: Concert," gives you a "We scouted all over the clue? (By the way, if world to find the perfect your kids want you vacation spot. Once we to buy Chili's ribs saw Atlantis in The because of 'N Sync's Bahamas, we knew commercial, simply that was the place for point out that you'd our movie." These I girls might be young, love to head for a deserted Bahamian but it's clear they have isle, where the ad impeccable taste in r destinations - taste that's was shot.) Meanwhile, on the shared by Regis and Kelly, female fan club front, Olsen who recently broadcast from twins MapKate and Ashley were Atlantis with such guest stars as also spotted in The Bahamas making their Howie Mandel and Jill Hennessy, along "Holiday in the Sun" fllm. According to with The Islands' superstars, BahaMen.

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ISLAND SCENE Winter/Spring 2003 1 1

For $275,000 a week, you and 23 of your closest friends can rent a 10,000 square-foot, plantation-style house on Musha Cay, Exuma.

Back to the Caribbean Travel & Life magazlne readers' poll: Sandals Royal Bahamian was cited in the Best Spa Resort and Best AllInclusive Resort categories. Could it be the new "Island Escape Massage" and "Twilight Massage," for which they whisk you to private Sandals Cay for your dual rubdown? Cable Beach neighbor Superclub Breezes Bahamas also popped up in the Best AllInclusive Resort category, a distinction that's bound to be repeated once their two new eateries open this year. Choose the romantic Garden of Eden for amorous dining, or the hopping Reggae Cafe for Caribbean frolics. If you're looking for something intimate and chic, follow the advice of the readers, who chose none other than Compass Point, Chris Blackwell's ultra-hip resort on the west end of NassauIParadise Island in the Best Small Hotel category. The biggest Out Island news is on Exuma: development of a resort by world-renowned Four Seasons Hotels 81 Resorts. Hey, we always knew Exuma was fab, and it's about time the luxury leaders fell in line. Dubbed Emerald Bay Resort, and slated to hold a residential community as well, ~twon't be

of Commerce and at Deloitte and To

course and lovers of lavishness jet r the pampering long associated with Seasons. Get your reservations in as

What changes in the business environment have you seen in The Islands Of The Bahamas? One is in the number of Bahaman professionals in the financial sector. When I came back in 1981, there were 25 CPAs. Now we have about 400 to 500 qualified chartered accountants. The entire financial services industry has grown dramatically, and is serving an important market. There has also been an increase in the number of tourists. To what can you attribute these changes? We are close to the Unlted States, and this has always been a major factor. Bahamans cao easlly travel to the US and see how the rest of the world operates. And because of the many islands here, the quality of llfe and temperature, tourists are drawn to The Bahamas. Our strong financial services lndustry and our tax situation make it al' the more appealing. What does your job as President of the Chamber of Commerce involve? The Chamber represents the business community and maintains 1SSlf-i a relationship with governmen+ 437 on its behalf. We are a liaison between foreign and Baham~an companies that want to do busrness together. Through us, forelgn companies can learn more about --_rr Bahamian business. ---- r Can YOU give us an example of &'j how you execute your duties' bA49 Recently, a large multination company that sell$ consume, products had a trade show here. l$;i/ I attended a reception and welthe company'r represe g3

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ings in the Abacos too, with a fancy new resort slated to replace the now. demolished Treasure Cay Beach Hotel with a series of small buildings containing luxe digs. Scheduled for a The longtime favorite Peace and

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encouraged local Bahamian --- businesses t o vislt the;-w -ohs t o see what they had t o On the other side, the gove : i , ment Invites us to share our vlews on different issues. For example, there have been some recent changes In the labor laws.The process involved an ongoing dlalogue with the government

Did vou know that Columbus

of Bahamian life. Some 98 percent of Bahamians report they are Christians, and the country is known to have more churches per capita than any other country, says Bahama historian Irwin V. McSweeney. Formal religions have been transformed t o accommodate the deep spirit and inimitable soul of the Bahamians. Today, it is not unusua'l for office workers and even taxi drivers to keep their Bible close at hand. The Nassau Guardian newspaper r e ~ o r t sreligious news on the front page, while international affairs land on page two.

that allowed busir~ehspeopleto express our views, and the final decisions took our input lnto considerat~on. Can YOU articulate your vision as President of the Chamber? The Islands Of The Bahamas have done extremely well in tourism and in the financial industry, but we still need t o diversify products and encourage Bahamians to set up shop on Islands beyond Nassau. What do you see i n the future? The great challenge IS to develop relat~onshlpsand partnerships in a global economy, and part af this involves forming allegiances with huge organizations. In the next five to ten years, the businesses that succeed will be those that form alliances around the world within their industries. My flrm, to use an example, is made up of Bahamlan accountants, but we are al~gnedwith Deloitte and Touche and have access to the company's resources around the world. This will be important for other businesses ~nThe Bahamas.

>Contest Craze What does it take to win a trip to The Bahamas? On WXRT (Chicago), being the tenth lucky caller after their daily "paradise" song; on New York's WCBS-FM, a correct answer to "Survivor" trivia. Lucky juveniles and their adult tagalongs enjoy Atlantis's Discover Camp courtesy of the "Spy Kids Contest," while lucky couples in the Macy's "Couple of the Year" sweepstakes get a free honeymoon. Meanwhile, five Hemingway wannabes found Fanta sodas' contest a winner. The theme (hold the groans, please): "What is Your Fanta-SYVacation?" -v -.*$ 4,

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...like no elax ax in one of our romantic

waterfront cottages where your balcony literally overhangs the clearest waters in the world.

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SMOKE UP An Hermks ashtray, perhaps the ultimate flamingo souvenir, can be found at Solomon's Mines on Bay Street. '

4's % I S L A N D C H I M E Take home the sounds of The Bahamas with this wind chime from Island lings on Bay Street.

SWEET SAVINGS The Ardastra Gardens gift shop has all kinds of flamingos, such as this plastic candy box that later becomes a coin bank.

CARRY ALL Flamingos are emblazoned on hats, beach towels, toy maracas and bags at the famed Straw Markets in Nassau and Grand Bahama Island.

he Bahamas' national bird, the flamingo is longged and agile, with an adult male standing as six feet. Their curved necks, p ~ n kfeathers eir diet of shrimp, we're told -and black kings have made them an ubiquitous icon p culture. Their legs appear to bend ut you will learn at Ardastra Gardens, d conservation center in Nassau, that what to be the knee is really the bird's ankle, s webbed foot is toes only.

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P I N K DR lN K You'll find ceramic coffee mugs, bells, boxes and ashtrays at the appropriately named Pink * 4 Flamingo .- Trajcng on Bay Street: - , + r4

SHARP B l RDS Who could resist these twisted pink pencils, found at Pink Flamingo Trading?

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IS LAND S C E N E Winterlspring 2003 17

HighTea

BY J A K E MA C D0 NA L D

gant visit

e Governor General's mansion and greet Bahamian friends

IY 16-YEAR-OLD DAUGHTER Caitlin and 1were on vacation from Winnipeg,

lanada, and she was hoping to meet some k i d s l e r age and get an authentic iew of local Bahamian culture. Browsing the tourist guidebook in our hotel, he noticed a listiqg for an afternoon tea held every last Friday of the month From j a n u q to bri$ust) a;t the tpansion of the Governor General. The tea is ponsored by the i@nistq of T~itrisrn'sPeople-to-People Programme. "It just lappen&$o be th&last Fdday d the month," Caitlin recalls. "So we went." Like *st good ideas, the Feople-to-People Programme is simple - it onnects tourists with local hosts, and then both parties take it from there. ISLAND SCENE Winter/Spring2005--

The volunteer hosts might take their friends for a drive around the island, on a lunch date with friends or for a visit to a school. The idea is to seek out day-to-day island culture. Often, participants have such fun that they wind up exchanging letters and maintaining long-term friendships. Those who don't have the time or opportunity for the full-fledged encounter - or, like Caitlin MacDonald, have not planned in advance - attend the Friday teas. As befits a setting of such leafy dignity, there is no admission charge, but Caitlin and I wisely called ahead of time to reserve seats. The Governor General's mansion sits on a hill overlooking Nassau's harbor, and when we arrived, we were impressed by the handsome Royal Bahamas Defense Force guards who welcome visitors to the grounds. We toured the garden; saw the turtle pond, the flowers and their attendant ruby-throated hummingbirds; and when the tea party commenced, sat amongst several Bahamians, including the scrupulously courteous Giovanna Knowles, aged 16, who immediately struck up a friendship with Caitlin ("Tell me -do Canadians think we live in grass shacks?") as well as with the elderly and dignified matriarch Celeste Lockhart, who informed both young ladies that when she was young, she was taught to say good morning to every single person she passed on the street. "Even on a busy street?" Giovanna asked. Celeste chuckled. "No, not on a busy street." The Governor General's mansion has an interesting history. Prince Edward and Wallis Simpson hosted tea parties here, and over the years, the list of visiting luminaries has included Winston Churchill, John F. Kennedy and Margaret Thatcher. Giovanna and Caitlin made a good show of listening to the history of the mansion, but they were clearly more interested in critiquing their schoolteachers, comparing the rules for dating in both countries and exchanging e-mail addresses. In the year 2000, the People-to-People Programme celebrated its 25th anniversary. But still, many visitors to The Bahamas haven't heard about this wonderful opportunity to become more closely acquainted with real island culture. For information about the People-to-People Programme, contact Priscilla Williams at the Bahamas Ministry of Tourism at 242-326-5371; fax 242-356-0434; or e-mail pwilliam@bahamas.com. w

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Escape the crowds and discover virtually untouched pink sand beaches, a bonefishing paradise, and one of the world's largest barrier reefs. Stroll beside pastel-colored homes and lush tropical landscapes. Dine on fresh delicacies froril the daily catch. And be enchanted by the welcoming smiles of the Bahamian people.The Out Islands. Only an hour from Florida, yet a million miles away.

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STCARD from your Bahamian resort; eling chatty, you might even have e letter. But did you notice the stamp Chances are it's more than just a way to sive to your friends and relatives; it's very on its own. So you can't afford a or you don't have room in your suitcase for in one of The Islands' many galleries? Visit LANUIWHK~SThe Gregory Arch in Nassau has been beautifully and realistiaharnian post office, for a masterpiece that's cally illustrated in a 25th Anniversary of Independence commemorative stamp. dable and easily transported. age stamp is an important matter," the famously Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser once said. "Small postage stamps become big works of art, available to everyone." He knew whereof he spoke, having created many images for the United Nations' special postal division. Furthermore, philatelic history is full of the works of notable painters: Van Gogh, Gauguin, Rembrandt, Degas, Monet, Michelangelo, Renoir and Chagall have all been represented in the upper right corner of letters. (Of course, most of these lions of the artistic world weren't commissioned to do stamps, but is it any surprise that when searching for an image, the postal powers-that-be found the work of the masters to be an appealing choice?) FESTIVALS The colorful costumes of Junkanoo are depicted in stamps designed Bahamian artists are no exception, with their bold by Derek Miller based on original paintings by C. Fernander interpretation. images adorning many a postcard. And there is no better way to give a true sense of The Islands' beauty (and gloat a little to your not-so-lucky friends back home) than to adorn your snapshot of tropical beauty with a stamp reflecting this unique destination. Bahamianborn painter Ricardo Knowles exemplifies the variety of postal creations; his stunning historical scenes honor the 25th anniversary of Bahamian independence and he created a recent series on early Bahamian settlements. His stamps of sea life -from coral reefs and barracudas to freshwater turtle ponds -highlight environmental protection. And the world of nature has inspired E N V l R O N M E N T The colorful fans and fishes of the reefs are displayed in budding da Vincis also - a series of stamps employing stamps designed by Derek Miller from Ricardo Knowles' paintings. art by Bahamian children helped commemorate 1997's International Year of the Reefs. I It's no wonder that The Islands Of The Bahamas should be making their mark in the postal world, as the country's history is laden with firsts of philately. Did you know The Bahamas were the and Alton Roland Lowe have fallen under the spell of home of the world's first undersea post office? (It was in an underwater " ' S ~ E ' " this traditional ceremony. With the glittering headpieces, constructed for movie filming, and opened in 1939.) That the island kingdom gaudily adorned faces, and shimmering costumes, this issued the world's first stamps with curving perforations? (Hey, a kidney-shaped yearly festival provides the inspiration for the bright stamps stamp is pretty cool to collectors.) That The Bahamas put out stamps before Egypt, these artists create. And speaking of holidays: Stamp expert Peter J. Roberts of the American Philatelic Society and Japan, China, Hungary and Greece? Not surprisingly, Junkanoo -the festive parade held annually on Boxing Day and British Caribbean Philatelic Study Group has his eye on New Year's Day - provides great material for stamps. Local artists Brent Malone the seasonal creations of well-known Bahamian artist Amos _C

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ISLAND SCENE winter/Spring 2003 21

The stately and majestic Government House on NassaulParadise Island

Ten letters that ssell the meaning of familv fun.

Million gallon beach sand pool with three story waterslides and spectacular waterfalls

965 newly renovated guestmoms Seven new specialty mstaumnts

Two USGA-mted golf courses

New children's center European-style spa & fitness center

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Completely new Casino with aN new machines, games, and interior

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Ferguson for future stamp art. "Some of his religious paintings," says Peter, "would make ideal Christmas stamps." Attention, Postmaster General! "Bahamian stamps are collected all over the world," smiles Lowe, The Islands' leading postal artist. "One man in Jerusalem puts them on cards and has me autograph them; I recently got a letter from a guy in the Czech Republic who wanted to know more about The Bahamas' villages because he had seen my stamps. And," Lowe confides, "I was in Northern Ireland a couple of years ago, and saw someone's collection of stamps from around the world, and there were my stamps!" With 75 designs to his credit, Lowe's virtuosity is seemingly endless. Flora fans love his vibrant flowers and the new series on medicinal plants. History buffs can send their mail complete with scenes of the Lucayan Indians, while other Lowe creations range from shells (cockle, triton and, of course, the locally famous queen conch) to villages such as New Plymouth, Cherokee Sound and Hope Town. The original paintings on which the stamps were based are also collectors' items; Lowe reports that one is owned by the widow of Bahamian F'rime Minister Sir Lynden Pindling, another by the Queen of England. But even the mini-versions can be quite impressive - something to bear in mind when you send your next mailing. With vintage Bahamian stamps fetching over $5,000 at auction, a visit to the post office might yield not only a means of delive~ybut tomorrow's valuable piece of .----diminutive -art. --

Air-Inclusive vacation packages availablefrom a variety of U.S. cities &rough Grand Bahama Vacations call 800-545-1300or call your favorite wholesaler.

E EGGS AND PANCAKES ARE COMMON ENOUGH, THE TRUE w

A breakfast of boil' fish may include the entire fish, bones and all.

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BAHAMIAN BREAKFAST MAY INCLUDE FISH STEW WITH BIRD PEPPERS AND A SIDE OF FRIED BOLOGNA

Morni ngGlory Souse, johnny cake and boil' fish. The colorful vocabulaty of the kfast. B Y C H E L L E K O S T E R W A L T O N cook breakfast for her r own. She had to stand breakfast -for half the d, it sometimes seems. but her stove top still earty flavors of her sts at Becky's Restaurant day long, made to order, hat came from the sea, their explains why dishes are part of the Bahamian morning tradition. For a cold pizza breakfaster like me, breakfast in The Islands has always been the departure from my everyday life I crave most. It all began with the chunk of steaming johnny cake and plate of "fire engine" I tasted on my first trip to Grand Bahama Island. Why children and some adults refer to corned beef and grits as "fire engine" leaves even Bahamians shrugging. Some say it has to do with the rapid preparation; others, the red sauce that binds minced canned meat, onions and green peppers together. As for the johnny cake, its name is derived from the "journey cakes" that colonials carried on long trips. The Bahamian version does not follow the rules of other West Indian flat, pan-cooked johnny cake. It's baked in long loaves and has the coarse texture and sweetness of cornbread. It is the must-order accompaniment to the most ubiquitous Bahamian breakfast of all, boiled (a.k.a. boil') fish. Boil' fish is a broth soup with the fish -bones, skin, and sometimes even head - still intact. One's skill at cleaning the meat off the bones is a matter of pride. Restaurant cooks prefer grouper, but snapper or any catch of the day will suffice. Purists use seawater in the broth, others simply wash the fish with salt water. They then season it with lime juice and hot pepper, and cook it with onions and potatoes. The salty-tartfishy result is said to cure hangovers. Authentic Bahamian restaurants, such as Geneva's Place on Grand Bahama Island, serve the dish with lime wedges and a native bird pepper (a small chili pepper that grows like a weed on The Islands and got its name h m the birds who spread its seeds). Becky offers a cruet of salt peppers -crushed bird peppers in lime and salt.

Stewed (stew') fish is another use of the day's catch. Here, it's smothered in a thick, brown, tomato-based sauce. At Blue Lagoon Seafood Restaurant on Paradise Island, the fish is floured and fried, and the sauce flecked with fresh thyme. Stew' conch is a less common variation, and conch also appears in souse, another popular breakfast concoction in several guises. Prepared much the same as boil' fish, souse most often features chicken, but can also be made from pig's feet, mutton or even sheep tongue. Plenty of traditional dishes revolve around grits. Besides corned beef, you'll find them paired with tuna, fried bologna (watch out, it's called sausage on the menu) and sardines. Ask Becky for her old-time rendition of grits belo, consisting of onions, tomatoes, cabbage and "whatever else you want to put in." Tuna 'n grits is tuna salad (seasoned with lime and chilis as well as onions and mayo) on a plate with grits. In Grand Bahama Island and the Out Islands, you'll find traditional breakfast served in the plain, homey dining rooms of native restaurants off the tourist path. The same is true in Nassau, though it has also become the fare of mainstream modem restaurants with tourist appeal, such as Conch Fritters Bar and Grill, Caf6 Johnny Canoe, Blue Lagoon and takeout at the Bahamian Kitchen. Wherever you relish the culinary adventure, Bahamian breakfast recollects a slice of old-island times that has survived as a bond with Bahamians' sea-washed past and a link for daring visitors to the essence

Cheater's Restaurant, (242) 3362535 Eddie's Water Edge, (242) 336-2050 Iva Bowe's, (242) 3457014 Town Caf6, (242) 336-2194 GRAND BAHAMA ISLAND

Geneva's Place, Freeport, (242) 352-5085 Becky's Restaurant, eport, (242) 352-5247 rgie's, Lucaya, (242) 37313 Les Fountain's, Lucaya,

oon Seafood Restaurz Island, (242) 363-2400 mian Kitchen, downtown Nassau, (242) 325-0702 Conch Fritters Bar & Grill, downtown Nassau, (242) 323-8778 The Shoal Restaurant, downtown Nassau. (242) 323-4400

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THE FAMILY-ORIENTED ISLANDS OF THE BAHAMAS are a great place to let teenagers

:est their wings with new challenges, both physical and social. What - as Freud might lave put it - do teenagers want? It's safe to say that they want one another, for starters, as :ompany. Past the age of twelve or so, the notion of family togetherness just doesn't cut it. At the mega-resort Atlantis on Paradise Island, teens have their own hangout, Club Rush, pen Thursday through Saturday from 8 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. Here, adults are distinctly

FOR A PLACE TO STAY THAT FEATURES UNLIMITED, COMPLIMENTARY ACCESS TO VARIOUS WATERSPORTS 1

non gratis (though they're welcome to preview it - discreetly -on an early-evening tour). "It's really cool - loungy and hip, very trendy," enthuses Alicia Clott, a young editor at Girl'sLije magazine. Swathed in jungle prints and equipped with plentiful Playstations and computers for web-surfing, the club stocks the latest music videos and DVDs. Admission costs $10 a night, but the good news is that Atlantis lets kids 17 and under stay in their parents' room for free. Whatever the size of the resort you opt for, look for a place to stay that features unlimited, complimentary access to various types of watersports. You don't want your kids to have to bug you for "extras," and neither, assuredly, do they. At the Radisson Cable Beach Resort, Sean Dalton, director of activities and entertainment, says that the resort has an environ1 ment that is ideal for teens: "We're all-inclusive, and that means parents don't have to shuttle their kids to watersports and other activities." The Radisson offers Camp Junkanoo for preteens with organized games and a junkanoo jamboree each Friday night. , The intimate Coral Sands Hotel on three-mile-long Harbour Island off Eleuthera provides snorkeling gear, tennis, kayaks and small sailboats. If you do decide to book an out-of-the-way spot, shoot for a school vacation week, when the odds of having other teens on hand are good. Another way to ensure youthful companionship is to check out the Ministry of Tourism's People-to-People Programme, which will match you up with a compatible local family. Wherever your family vacation takes you, you can always pack a restless teen off on a day trip. Ricky Johnson of Kayak Nature Tours on Grand Bahama, who is one of only 12 certified bird guides in The Bahamas, has a real knack for teaching teenagers ('"I love the kids," he says; "I go from 38 to 14 in fifteen seconds"). His trick is to pair the educational stuff - an explicated tour of two caves in Lucayan National Park - with an active payoff: a two-mile paddle down mangrove-choked Black Rock Creek. The Underwater Explorers Society (UNEXSO), the pioneer and premier provider of dolphin encounters on Grand FACING PAGE Club Rush at Atlantis is a haven for teens where parents are not invited. THIS PAGE Swimming with dolphins is an activity sure to please while a kayaking tour Bahama, also engages teens with the chance to play pro-forcan combine adventure with educationa-day. In addition to the basic two-hour Dolphin Experience and the Swim with Dolphins program, UNEXSO offers ATLAN. .-, Paradise Island, 242-363-2000 or 8 L - . JLANTIS, a Dolphin Assistant Trainer program for ages 16 and up w CORAL SANDS HOTEL, Harbour Island, Eleuthera, 242-333-2350 or 8 0 0 - 4 6 8 - 2 7 9 9 , I (the dolphin programs are best reserved at least 30 days in www.coralsands.com. Sdvance) which includes active participation not only within KAYAK NATURE TOURS. Grand Baharna Island, 242-373-. the lagoon but out on the open ocean. ". www.bahamasvg.com/kayak.html. Here, wandering far from home, teenage dolphins from the w PEOPLE-TO-PEOPLE PROGRAMME ava~lableon Nassau domesticated pod haye been known to "socialize" - "that's Bahama Island, Abaco, Eleuthera, Exuma, San Salvador the polite word," says UNEXSO's Don Churchill - and www.bahamas.com/~slands/experiences. sometimes stay out all night. They always come back, W RADISSON CABLE BEACH RESORT, 2 4 though, if that's any consolation for human parents. As www.radisson.com/nassaub~cable w UNEXSO, 954-351-9889 or 800-992Churchill points out, "Any mammal is going to return for food." Those with teens know the truth of that statement.

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,"&a and meditation soothe the city-stressed soul. BY BETH BELTON

The daily Sun Salutation is a yoga

yo& with a view of Nassau Bay eu-en if it should fain: on the o~enrair- ' Beach pl&orm ;BELOW), itudeots practice the Triangle po2e.

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, INCLUDE PROPER EXERCISE, BREATHING,

RELAXATION, DIE:T AND

TlVE THINKING.

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VACATION IN JANUARY, 1didn't stay at a fancy resort,

,shop 'ti1 I dropped, or spend much time on the beach.

esses of Washington hehind and restore some inner calm,

island between Club Med and %Eghthouse at the mouth of the bay. The 33-year-old &a @anslaitfor monaste*,fomded by Indian yogi Swami Vishnu Depananda, offers yoga vacations for a day &r year. No pampering spa, Sivang~dciemphasizes the FQ&O life - meditatipn, asanas (~ostures),eating right a d bqqomisg calm, The a&am criters to yoga neop&tes aa well as expefiamed teach@&.Tbe'&sdifi far ~irsi.tnrts:to depart3eeling betta than they%efelt in rn~fiths,if n-ot $em, T h e mq~zni@aring p l a OII ~ earth,'" Rays f& lav guest Andy Daubleday dDarhy.Lit~,Tm.uat.

One juts out onto the white-sand beach, one is under a thatched mf in the garden and the other is on the bay side, across from Nassau and the gigantic cruise &kipsthat bring vacationers to this former British colony. Durifig the find silent meditation and chanting d

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ISLAND SCENE winter/Spnng 2003 29

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,the day, which often goes until 10:30 p.m.; you can hear raucous bands playing at shipside parties. The ashram's peaceful ambiance easily overcomes the distraction. The first meal is at 10 a.m. "Based on a diet that is conducive to meditation," according to a brochure, the food is vegetarian, but contains no garlic, onion or sugar. Meals are served buffet-style out of huge vats, and beverages are limited to spring water or weak tea. That's a welcome change from the usual caffeinated fast-food diet of most guests. But it can get monotonous. The second day, I bought some Oreos at the retreat boutique. The schedule allows for free time between 11 a.m. and 4 p.m., -when the second yoga class begins. You can loll on the beach, snorkel in the clear blue-green waters or take a boat ride to join the shoppers along Nassau's Bay Street. If you want to become more yogi-like, you can do "karma" yoga by volunteering for selfless service, such as sweeping the temple or cleaning up the kitchen. The second two-hour class begins with pranayarna $reathing exercises), a cornerstone of yoga practice. After a few minutes of this, I feel as giddy as if I had consumed two or three martinis. Dinner is served at 6 p.m., and everyone eats out on a huge covered porch. Guests come from every continent and include artists, CEOs, farmers, scientists and high school dropouts. The place is said to have been a favorite haven of the late ex-Beatle George Harrison, and it's not uncommon to see a familiar face from Hollywood or TV. But mostly, the 50 to 100 guests

are stressed-out urban dwellers seeking inspiration and escape. Indeed, Sivananda did feel like heaven on earth, and for days after leaving, I could still hear the joyous voices of the chanting yogis in my mind. When life starts bearing down on me again, I know I'll be back. The Sivananda Yoga Retreat is on Paradise Island. Tel: 242-363-2902;www.sivananda.org. This article originally appeared in Bwiness Week Lgestyle. - _ ______--

ISLAND S C E N E Winter/Spring 2003-

Nothing compares t o the Out Islands of the Bahamas. Escape the crowds and discover virtually untouched pink sand beaches, a bonefishing paradise, and one of the world's largest barrier reefs. Stroll beside pastel-colored homes and lush tropical landscapes. Dine on fresh delicacies from the daily catch. And be enchanted by the welcoming smiles of the Bahamian people.The Out Islands. Only an hour from Florida, yet a million miles away.

1.800.OUT ISLANDS (688.4752) www. bahama-out-islands.com

0.f T H E ISLANDS OF T H E

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BAHAMAS

I t Just Keeps G e t t i n g B e t t e r Q

Sponsored by the Bahama Out I s l a n d s Promotion Board

Some of the artist's most powerful - and vexing - images come from his visits. TEXT AND PHOTOS BY JAD DAVENPORT

ISLAND SCENE WinterISpnng 2003

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THE CORNER of West Hill and Parliament eyes drift out of focus and gently squint at hed out below, you may glimpse the Colonial an artist Winslow Homer must have seen it when he city as Arr 884 to illustrate a travel feature for Century magazine. cars, TV antennas and telephone wires melt away opic of Cancer sun. One hundred and eighteen ,-ars ago, not far from this intersection, Homer stood on the stately veranda of the Royal Victoria Hotel, gazing out on the same city. The hotel burned down a quarter of a century ago, but the timeless view still survives - coral-pink buildings trimmed in white surrounded by a fading quilt of shingled roofs, punctuated here and there by slender coconut palms curving to the sky. Contemporary artist Harry Hilson, who has traveled extensively in The Islands, has no doubt that Homer's Bahamas still exist: "Any, one who has ever visited Nassau will instantly understand that

Homer captured its essence." Unlike other places that have lost their charm at the expense of modernization, says Hilson, The Islands of The Bahamas have not changed dramatically. "Miami, for example, is so different today than it was in the 1800s. If people could come back, they wouldn't even recognize it. That's not true of certain parts of Nassau. The people of the 1800s would know . just where they are." When Homer first arrived in Nassau, he was 4 8 years old and well established as America's most famous living painter. Born and raised in Cambridge, Massachusetts, he began his career as a lithographer's apprentice before HarperS Monthly hired him as an illustrator. By middle age, Homer's gritty oil paintings depicting the harsh reality of life in fishing villages from Maine to England had won him international acclaim. The Bahamas of the 19th century were then, like now, a far cry from the brooding seascapes of the North Atlantic. Traveling with

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The blooming garden of a contemporary home in Rolle Town, Great Exuma, is reminiscent of Winslow Homer's 1898 watercolor, A Wall, Nassau, which is on difplay in the Metropolitan Museum of Art. -I S L A N D S C E N E WinterlSpring 2003 33

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Homer was a great observer. Through his paintings of people and places in The rag paper, sable brushes and paint tins, Homer spent the winters of ~ d sketching and painting New Providence (Nassau1 1884435 a ~ 1898-99 Paradise Island) and the Abacos. Watercolors proved ideal for the traveling artist. They were lightweight, the paints dried quickly in the high sun and the luminosity of the white paper showing through the colors perfectly captured the airy, spontaneous feel of island life. Watefcolors were a medium that enabled Homer to achieve a powerful sense of immediacy in his paintings, says fi art critic Robert Hughes. Homer, he says, used waiercolors to "create a sparkling directness hardly attainable in oil." It is a directness that comes alive in a style that harks back to Homer's earlier works as a lithographic illustrator - a woman, hand

on ,hip, resting with her fruit tray balanced atop a coral wall (Rest, 1885), the bone-bleached sunshine reflecting off a planter's home (Cabins, Nassau, 1885), the midday sun glowing on the skin of two young boys diving for conchs in a bay (West India Divers, 1899). "Winslow Homer was a great observer," says Hilson. "Through his paintings of people and places in The Bahamas he gives us a good idea of what life was like in the 1800s. In a sense, he was almost a reporter. His paintings are our only color record of what The Bahamas looked like back then." Nassau looks timeless from a distance Even if 20~~-century barring the occasional pearl-white cruise ship bridge looming over the rooftops - I decided to see if the details of Homer's Bahamas still

Conch is still king in the shallow warm waters of the Islands Of The Bahamas, just as it was when Homer painted West India Divers in 1899. Divers is on display at the University of Kansas' Museum of Art. FACING PAGE,CLOCKWISE FROM UPPER LEFT After the Hurricane, Homer's enigmatic epilogue to his haunting watercolor, The Gulf Stream, hangs in the Art Institute of Chicago. The easy island life that Homer painted in the late 1800s can still be found among the faded estate houses and former slave quarters of Rolle Town (right) and Rolleville (lower left) on Great Exuma. T H I S PAGE

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34 ISLAND SCENE WinterISpring 2003

s, he gives I exist. "Head to the Out Islands," the historian at the Nassau library advises when I poke around the dusty exhibits and black and white photographs. You'll see life like it was before." Life like it was before seems to be sublime in the tiny hamlet of 2 - Rolle Town. An hour south of George Town by moped, Rolle Town is a collage of Homer paintings come to life, a ramshackle string of colorful houses with deep shaded porches that I imagine harbor relaxed conversations on sunny days and moody silences during rainstorms. "Smiles and a medley of greetings" flash from every house. Goats bray, and children squeal as I offer them rides up and down Main Street on my moped. Further south, I explore an abandoned plantation near Williams Town. It sits on a hill, shaded by Cuban pines that tumble to the - beach below. Paint delicately flakes off the walls, the yellows and blues subtracted from the white base - mimicking watercolor in reverse. Bougainvillea strangles the porch and I am reminded of

Homer's painting, A Wall, Nassau, 1898. A simple scene of fading architecture, the distant sea and scarlet poinsettias, Homer painted it in only two days. If most of his Bahamas paintings seem light and casual, it would be a mistake to think Homer abandoned the heavier themes he successfully explored in his oil paintings of New England and Europe. On his last visit to Nassau, he wrote to friend and patron Thomas B. Clarke, "I have had a most successful winter at Nassau. I found what I wanted and have many things to work up into two paintings ; I have in mind." What emerged from Homer's last visit to The Bahamas was perhaps his most haunting painting of man against the elements. Based on a series of watercolor studies he did on shark fishermen and derelict boats in The Bahamas, Homer painted his masterpiece, The Gulfstream, 1899. An exhausted sailor, collapsed on the deck of a dismasted sailboat, rides storm waves. Sharks circle in-blood-

ISLAND SCENE Winterlspring 2003 35

Looking for Homer's Bahamas

t. 1

stained water, while a menacing waterspout bears down. Almost out of sight, a squarerigger sails obliviously past, rescue all but gone. "With The GulfStream, Homer was working on a much more monumental theme," says Hilson. "It was man, stranded on sea alone, to suffer the forces of nature. A great tragedy, where we already know the hopelessness of man's futile attempt at escape. We know, with the waterspout touching the water, it is only a matter of time." Hilson responds to the painting on an emotional level. "Once that painting has been seen by any sailor, I think it becomes the symbol they recall when facing a mean storm," he says. "There is a certain fatalism associated with that painting." It is a dramatic painting, and a reminder that looking for Homer's Bahamas has as much to do with searching out real places as it does looking for emotional connections. If it was Homer's most recognizable painting, The GulfStream was also his most vexing. He was frustrated by what he perceived as the public's inability to understand the themes immersed in the oil. When asked once to explain the painting, he gruffly responded, "I regret very much that I have painted a picture that requires any description." In her book Winslow Homer Watercolors, Helen Cooper, curator of American paintings and sculpture at Yale University Art Gallery, suggests Homer might have based The Gulf Stream on the real-life shipwreck of Captain McCabe, commander of British troops in Nassau in 1814. Fleeing pirates in a small boat, McCabe eventually washed ashore on Abaco. Cooper notes that Homer pasted a clipping of the story inside his travel guide to The Islands. If there is a logical conclusion to this journey seeking Homer that seems to lead from the literal to the figurative, it will be on the beaches of the Abacos. Thirty miles south of Marsh Harbour, where the Great Abaco Highway branches off on dirt roads, I bounce the rental car off a rugged twotrack through a grove of casuarinas and trudge barefoot to the roiling surf. The sea grass lays cont~nuedon page 95

I S L A N D S C E N E Winterlspring 2003 37

R E M A I N S of' the He.si)erus are unre~narkable.Iri the 18rallows east of Uimini, the srnall, former island freighter is 3 heap than wreck. Swamped by a long-Sorgotten stornl, .us lias becon~ean iron oasis in an otherwise monotonous F sand and turtle grass. Within its larger hull segments, grunts and small snappers seek shelter from the great rracudas and African pornpanos tl~atpatrol the wreck's perimeter. As day fades to night, loggerheatl tur-tles move in frorn the flats to lay claim to clioic-e sleeping nooks and crevices. On any given night, a dozen 01-Inore of these sluni1)eri ng giants (:an be fonnd crannnetl under the wreck's protective overhangs like cars in a parking garage. And on this par.tic:ular night, conditions were perfert lor a tlive. A tleati calnl lay across the Bal~arnaBanks. From the s w i n ~platforrn of o u r dive boat we coultl sec h e lirst evc~ning stars reilected in the water's I)lac,k, rriirror-like surface. Aheatl, under the pale illurninatio~iol the nroou, tlie wreck's jagged outline appeared as a I~lackpattern agairist a dark-gray 1)ackgr.ound. Only under the glow of our ciive lights would colors return, olien exposing several ol tire wreck's tenants tucketl into various crevicrs antl alcoves. 1lowc:vel; our searcalr was l i ~ something r rnuc:h, 1nuc.11Ijiggel: For the ultinlate untlerwatt~rmarine-lif'c: c:rlcounters in the tropical Atlantic: ant1 Caril)l)ean, The Islantls Of Tht: Nalra~nasstantl i r r this vast vxpunse of shalunc:hallenged. Ant1 Gntling sea t~~rtI<:s ~ ~ l ant1 tlee1)water passes, is ~)r.c+ttyrnuc:h lows, with its I ~ e a u t i f reef's a sure thing. Of' the Atlantic's four 1)riniar.yspec>ies- I~awltsl~ill, green, lopgc, ,,,E

or near the region's reefs and wrecks. The leatherback. considered an open ocean rover, is more rarely spottetl. The hawksbill (Eretn~ochelysimbricata), the smallest in tlie group, is the most coinmonly encountered. Often mistaken for the green turtle due to its colorlul markings and agility, the hawksbill is identified by the strong, protruding upper beak that inspired its nanie. Hawksbill turtles were once hunted unmercifully for tortoise-shell jewelry antl ornaments. Now highly protected, these creatures are beginning to show signs of making a rek~ountllrotn their onetime prominence on the endangered species list. Green turtles, on the other hand, have a tough road ahead of them; they are still illegally hunted for meat in sonre Caril)l)ran islands. The green turtle (Chelonia mydas) is easily identified by a smooth, olivebrown shell marked with darker streaks antllor spots, and an equally smooth, bullet-shaped head. Its narne was actually derived from the greenish color of its flesh, not its skin or shell. This species is also significantly larger, oftell tipping the scaales at 500 to 600 pounds. Of little c-ornrnercial value, the loggerhead is therelort: more abundant. Fount1 in both ternperale and suhtiupical oceans worldwide, loggerheads (Caretta caretta) have large, basketball-sized heads, thick, rough shells and weights ol up to 600 pounds. They are rarely ' intimidated by divc-..-. snorkelers. >>>

Anywhere it w-ants. During night dive :wrec:lis ant1 reefs of The Bahamas is not unusual ror. one of these lu~nhering behenloths to settle dowu noncl~alarrtly beside a (liver. A loggerheatl glitlirig in uriexpectedly froin the darkness (:an l an awe-inspiring - a ~ i djarring - sig As he passed over the slern of the Hesj~erus,niy hutldy's light (:aught the L... line of a sleeping turtle on the saiicl hottotn. 1 spread my arrr~sto delermine that we were )king at a five-foot fcinale loggerheac' 1-nrtle.A ~roopof two- to three-foot rernc fish typically seen altachcd lo sha1.k~ clung to her broad, aninor-like shell. Ag t the stark while sand, the turtle's I~ulkirig, dark-1)rown and Ian form looked enorrrrous. Untler the repeatetl glare of my camera strol)t:s, :r ratatonic: sleep left her ah unrnovaljle as stone, while the rerrioras writhe snakes alier each I~urstol'flash. A sea turtle is a charnpioir t1reatl.1-holtl tliver. If left untlisturhetl (luring a normal rep c:yc:le, all anirnal of this size will s t a

to the surface to take a brc Meanwhile, the Hes~~erus was lookiilg more like a busy airpor~than a wreck. Four more glided in from open water; arid they seen~etlurilazecl by our intrusion and powel-ful (live lights. Their lun~bering remintletl me of dopey St. Bernards navigating a crowdetl living room in search of a suital~leplace lo nap. Sea turtles are called ancient mariners for good reason. From the Lirrre they hatch, they're out at sea, often wandering several leagues year lor 20 years or more 1,efor.e returning to the coast of their bir~h. A turtle he size of' this female woultl likely be 30 to 40 years of age. Before moving on, I paused ar~d~riedto imagine what strange, wondrous things she hati seen in her journeys. If she were able to speak, oh the stories she coultl [ell -

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ly to drink

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-JM AND he ,la s Of The Bahamas -, ueXally made history together in the 1920s, and then again in the 1960s, the story of that elixir begins with Europeans7 craving for sweets in the 16thand 17thcenturies. Explorers carried sugar cane with them on their travels, plunging the plants into the ground , around the world and carving plantations out .of nature wherever the : i stalks took root. The bamboo-like plant flourished in the Caribbean, where sugar cane was boiled and transformed into processed sugar. Molasses was a by-product. At some point, people noticed that molasses fermented with natural yeasts in the air. They distilled the molasses and came up with rum. The first documented batch of rum was made in Barbados in the early 18th century. Sugar cane and rum were central to the slave . ,' , , trade - plantation owners needed slaves to work the cane fields - and the American Revolution hinged, in part, on the British lust for taxing that . industry. As America's. second president, John \,r3 , Adams, once said, "I know . not why we should blush to confess that > > >' '*' 1

rhese ruii rum drinks at home Havana Cocktail 3/40~light rum 2 oz pineapple juice 1 tsp lemon juice ice Shake with ice and strain into a a glass. Top with a twist of lemon peel.

Mojito 2 oz light rum I12 lime 1 tsp sugar mint leaves crushed ice Squeeze lime into chilled 10-oz glass, add sugar and mint. Muddle until sugar is dissolved. Fill glass with crushed ice and pour rum. Swizzle until glass frosts, adding additional crushed ice and rum as needed. Garnish with mint leaves and serve with straws. You may top off $rink with cold club soda, oka dash of dark rum.

Bacardi Cocktail l1/2 oz Bacardi rum juice of lime tsp grenadine ice

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molasses (read: rum) was an essential ingredient in the American Independence." Indeed, companies throughout the Caribbean and North America flourished by buying molasses and distilling rum. And then in 1917 Congress passed the 18thAmendment to the Constitution -Prohibition. Two years later, three-quarters of the states ratified the amendment and it became law. The Bahamas quickly became the international epicenter for "rum-running," or smuggling. Rum was not the only liquor the rumrunners were plying, but it was significant. The Bahamas' proximity to the United States -Bimini is only 45 miles from the Florida coast - helped anoint The Bahamas as rum-running central, said Michael Checkley, director of the Bimini Museum. It didn't hurt, either, that The Islands' location in the Atlantic Ocean is a logical drop-off point for European smugglers. -

44 ISLAND-s C%E WinterlSpring 2003

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In 1923, the British newspaper The Guardian ran an article about Florida headlined "A Bootlegger's Paradise," noting that Nassau shipped 37,821 gallons of liquor in 1917 and 1,340,443 gallons in 1922 -a 35-fold increase in five years. "It is a safe bet that most of it reached the Florida coast or the Atlantic Highlands," meaning cities like New York and Boston, the paper said. Rich with anecdotes about American and Bahamian lawlessness and adventure, the article noted that in The Bahamas, "the newspapers are full of stories of bootleg pirates who, armed to the teeth like buccaneers of old, meet the rum ships, take the crews by stom, and, setting them adrift, make off with the precious liquor." But plenty of people who weren't pirates got rich, and the trade fattened the purses of British governments as well. "Everything was wide-open and legal, and the British government approved because

the customs officials had to collect a customs duty," Checkley said. At the height of rum-running frenzy, Bimini's 600 residents were joined by hundreds of smugglers. Boats larded with liquor surrounded the island. After a brutal 1926 hurricane destroyed fleets of boozeswamped schooners around the island, smugglers moved into Bimini Harbor, where they built flat-bottomed barges with crates of liquor sloshing around beneath the decks and nightclubs and bars on top. The boats lined the shores and attracted scores of Americans eager for public -and legal -revelry. Mafia kingpin A1 Capone was regularly flown to Bimini by American aviator Pappy Chalk. Chalk, who took both rumrunners and U.S. undercover agents to the island, started making flights between Florida and The Bahamas the year Prohibition became law, and Chalk Airlines still runs planes within The Bahamas and between The Bahamas and Florida today, making it one of the oldest airlines in the United States. Prohibition brought Bill McCoy to Bimini too. The money and risks of rum-running beguiled McCoy, a boatbuilder. He pieced together a small rum-running empire and he was prized for not watering down his products. People started calling his shipments the "Real McCoy," and the term, of course, is still used today. And there was Gloria Lithgoe, reputed to pack a gun, who cobbled together her own rum-running syndicate, terrorizing rivals and never getting caught.

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Just as a political event in the United StatesProhibition - first injected The Bahamas into the history and politics of rum, the rise of a politician in another country again brought rum to The Islands Of The Bahamas. Don Facundo Bacardi Masso, a Spanish Catalonian immigrant, moved to Cuba in 1862 and soon established a booming distillery. But when Fidel Castro took control of Cuba in 1959, he wrested away the Bacardi family's distilleries, forcing the family to flee to The Bahamas. The Bacardis began making rum again in 1965, said Kimani Smith, marketing manager for Bacardi & Co.'s Bahamas distillery. Later, they opened

Carl Fisher, founder of the Indy 500 motor race, sold a concrete ship to Bahamian rumrunner Bruce Bethel, who used the ship as a warehouse for his liquor as well as a speakeasy. The 1926 hurricane sank the ship between Bimini and Cat Cay, where it remains an attraction for divers seeking wrecks. Many of the rumrunners went broke when Congress repealed Prohibition in 1933, but some had pocketed enough cash to comfortably retire. "Some of the wealthy families in The Bahamas made their family money in the rum-running era," Checkley pointed out. Today, only the liquor conglomerate Bacardi & Co., which left Cuba for The Bahamas shortly after dictator Fidel Castro took power in 1959, distills rum in The Bahamas (see accompanying story). And The Bahamas have become known for a small, but growing, niche in the international rum trade: flavored rums. The Bahamas' Don Lorenzo line of flavored rums, the only flavored rums produced in The Bahamas, has been a staple on cruise ships and in local bars for several years, said Lorenzo Johnson, the company namesake and plant manager at Todhunter-Mitchel Distilleries Ltd. on Grand Bahama Island. Johnson, who has worked for the distillery for 1 7 years, said he began shooting flavor into the liquor because he "has a knack for blending." The company imports the rum and does the blending at its Grand cont~nuedon page 96

FROM LEFT Don Facundo Bacardi; the original employees of the first Bacardi plant; the new plant as it is today. ?

distilleries in Puerto Rico and Mexico, and eventually moved their corporate headquarters to Bermuda. The family chose The Bahamas first, Kimani said, because The Islands were similar to Cuba in climate, and The Bahamas had a very stable government. In addition, she said, "The Bahamas offered tax incentives, and we were trying to start up exports to Europe." The Bacardi trademark remains registered in The Bahamas, so all of the company's rum is technically Bahamian rum. Today, the Nassau distillery, which employs about 160 people, makes all of the rum the company sells in Europe and in The Bahamas-

about 18,250,000 liters a year. Most of its molasses is imported from the Dominican Republic and the plant handles production, from fermentation to blending to bottling. The Bahamas arm of the conglomerate also performs the quality control for all of the company's distilleries. The 61-acre, seafront Bahamas plant, located off of Carmichael Road, also crafts Bacardi's signature rum, called Bacardi 8. Aged for eight years, the rum is soft and smooth, with hints of vanilla and caramel, and none of the gasp-inducing harshness of cheap rums. It's sipping liquor, like a fine cognac. I S L A N D S C E N E WinterISpring 2003 45

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The airplane from Miami was late arriving into New Providence (NassauIParadise Island) in The Islands Of The Bahamas, but we ~hnuldn'treally have worried about missing our next travel ronnect

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icking about the five minutes left before our next scheduled departure. As the taxi deposited us quayside (

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luggage, glad to be finally aboard the mailboat that was to be our unusual home for the next few days.

-ISLAND SCENE Winterlspring 2003 - -

There are more than a dozen mailboats that leave Potter's Cay every week. Sometimes, they are the only regular link, and way to transport vital supplies and mail, to isolated settlements among the over 30 inhabited "Out Islands" of The Bahamas. Although many are also served by air today, these mailbbats offer intrepid tourists a chance to travel in true Bahamian fashion - a slow and peaceful pilgrimage to remote cays, across often dangerous channels, rippled by blue waters and dappled by coral reefs and sand shoals, that only their skilled captains know how to navigate. 'b;641p The crew were still busy loading freight. Cars, dinghies and oil drums were being winched on deck; stacks of timber, pine furniture and mattresses were being stored in the hold; and r boxes of provisions hustled into chilly walk-in refrigeration compartments. "Come back in an hour," the mate Clift said. r o get yourselves something to eat and drink." Wandering off to the nearby food stalls, underneath Paradise Island Bridge, we happily tasted our first fresh conch salad and fried barracuda with hot chili sauce, before returning to the mailboat, which now resembled an overloaded ark of supermarket provis hefty cargo. As dusk fell, the Captain Gurth Dean finally left the uoce bound for Abaco and its surrounding cays in the northern archipelago. Loaded with cargo and low in the water, the mailboat crept out, past the bright lights of the Atlantis Resort and the solitary stare of the 1816limestone lighthouse at the tip of Paradise Island, towards the open sea. Most of the 11crew members are avid fishermen, spending their spare time dangling lines overboard for grey snapper and jacks as they drink cups of local rum and coconut water. In bad weather, their monotonous shipboarc routine is broken only by watching Chuck Norris and Jackie Chall : i videos inside the cramped main cabin. The cheerful cook, nicknamed "Stick," brought us dinner on deck - pan-fried pork chops with beans and rice -as we watched the stars, even sharing a couple of bottles of Guinness from his private stash. The crew were already - ,$C*"r<y$$>;.'T ?r? . * . I. . ,'i..,- ' -.* ; -.r ' I n : rd , , * > asleep by the time we climbed the steep wooden steps to our . . r. r: i-', . "first class" cabin - a basic, adequate room with porthole, bunk beds and a couple of , . ' : . I .'.', i , towels and bottle of water kindly thrown in almost as an afterthought. Room service at t r . , , .- . :.. . dawn consisted of a loud cry of "Come and get your bacon and grits" from Stick. An , - -.. , , I - 1 ,--;;I : , " hour later we had arrived at Abaco's Marsh Harbour. The captain of the mailboat, Dean ., + . .'.:":j ' . ' 4 " .;, . t - -. - < '. Roscoe, was goading the sleepy crew into action. As they began winching a creaking 1' ,. : ;' < , b:FOh : ..".;Ir a *'- ,* . > . kI* . car onto the quiet dock, we left to visit Nettie's Different of Abaco, a fascinating eco1.' .. . .',";.I.I * I. , tourism resort at Casuarina Point. " ."dt - " .-, q ~ * . q : ! I. ". Nettie Symonette, the enterprising local owner, has created a 300*' :Ti " acre wildlife enclave, out of swamp and wasteland, that attract . A I Y . .''j " .' endangered flamingoes, herons and kingfishers. Iguanas, wild boar and peacocks also lurk in the undergrowth, and a lake close to the '- -_ ' - " ' first-come, first-served basis. Fares range from $30 to $7 sea is home to darting tarpon and fierce mosquitos that strike .,;, one-way, depending on the distance. For more rnformation c unawares. Along the pristine beach, The Sea Shell Beach Club offers , , ., . . mallboats, call 1-800-BAHAMAS, visit www.bahamas.com, -+ . ' simple accommodation, decorated with recycled driftwood and . or contact the dockmaster's office on Potter's Cay, Nassau: seashell furniture. A talented cook and local herbalist, Nettie's 9 ," " *j , 242-393-10641394-1237. ' extensive garden is filled with tropical trees and shrubs, such as

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pigeon plum, allspice and sugar apple, that she uses for food sources and her legendary cure-all bush teas. She makes a mean johnny cake (a skillet-fried flat. bread); chicken souse, spiked with limes and peppers; and pumpkin rice. -" The next day we left for Great Guana Cay and Green Turtle Cay. At Great Guana Cay, most of the mailboat's provisions were unloaded. It was great fun watching the local store owner stack cases of California strawberries and grapes, Dole lettuces and Moody Creek Idaho potatoes, frozen pizza bases and Philly Steaks, Green Giant brussels sprouts and Kellogg's Froot Loops into his tiny truck. With a population of only 150 people, most of this familiar supermarket inventory seemed destined surely for U.S. citizens with holiday homes. Porpoises raced the mailboat through the shallow straits between Whale and No Name Cays as we neared New Plymouth, the quaint capital of Green Turtle Cay. Once famous for its shipbuilding, the town is known today for its pastel-painted New England-style saltbox wooden houses and the memorable Albert Lowe Museum. This tiny nuseum reveals life as it was for the original Loyalist settlers who fled he United States after the Revolutionary War in the 1780s. At the pleasant Green Turtle Club, set beside a yacht marina, Canadian chef Michael Howell manages to incorporate delicious local seafood, such as stone crab, Mahi Mahi and conch, into his daily changing menu. Brendal Stevens, who operates Brendal's Dive Center next to this resort, runs some exciting boat trips to nearby cays. Even if you find the incessant reggae music too loud, the sea life is impressive. Reef sharks and southern stingrays, hogfish and black grouper lurk in the thick coral as Brendal and his athletic son dive overboard to spearfish lobster and snapper for lunch. On the beach at Mangrove Cay, where the boat moors for a picnic lunch, everyone gathers firewood to cook the seafood, which is briefly marinated with lime juice, black pepper and thyme before being placed on blackened metal grills on the fire. Our journey also took us south to the Exuma Islands, blessed with legendary beaches and coral reefs. Sadly, we had to take a small airplane, and imagine we were still on the mailboat as we watched some of The Islands' 365 cays speckled in the turquoise waters below us. Although there is some major development going on in Great Exuma (the Four Seasons group is building a resort and golf course), the island remains largely unspoiled. It offers over a dozen small hotels. The Peace and Plenty Club in the capital of George Town, overlooking Stocking Island, has played host to visiting royalty and has a lively bar where the regatta crowd hangs out. Returning to Nassau, weather-beaten and exhilarated by our voyage, we also had time for one more classic meal. At Dune, Jean-Georges Vohgerichten's latest restaurant in Paradise Island's Ocean Club, we joined his chefs and family for an impromptu supper. After selecting live Peace & Plenty Club: P.O. Box 29055, George Town, Exuma; grouper and lobsters from the Potter's Cay fish market with Chef de 242-336-2551; 800-525-2210; or www.peaceandplenty,com Cuisine Josh Eden, we ate the seafood later that evening when most Green Turtle Club: Green Turtle Cay, Abaco; 242-365-4271; of the diners had gone home. Grilled and fried, and served with 8 0 0 - 6 8 8 - 4 7 5 2 ; or www.greenturtlecIub.com mango butter, fresh corn and bowls of basmati rice, it was a simple Dune, Ocean Club: P.0. Box N-4777, Nassau; 242-363-2501 and sophisticated feast. Afterwards on the beach, with a few icy Nettie's Different of Abaco: p.0. Box AB-20092, Kalik beers as liquid accompaniment, we in turn told sea tales Marsh Harbour, Abaco; 242-366-2150; 8 0 0 - 6 8 , about our voyage before another early morning flight back home. 4 7 5 2 ; or www.differentofabaco.com

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This article originally appeared in Williams-Sonoma Taste magazine.

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Bz ama have catap crthletea to ca,eers of dizzying heights. KAREN W. B R t s s ~ t

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left their homes to train and compete elsewhere. But, as Golden Girl Pauline Davis-Thompson exemplifies, their hearts remain in The Bahamas. Thompson is now applying the dedication and enthusiasm that made her an Olympic gold medallist to promoting The Islands Of The Bahamas by working for the Bahamas Tourism Office in Atlanta, Georgia. And basketball great Rick Fox, who grew up in Nassau, recently established a charitable organization to promote athletics in The Bahamas and to bring scouts here, so young athletes can be assured of the attention they deserve. Another Nassau-born athlete, Mychal Thompson, once the first overall pick of the NBA, now lives in Minnesota, but says he would like to see a stronger emphasis on sports in The Bahamas. "We could definitely be putting out more world-class athletes," he says. Here are the stories of five athletes who worked hard, and in some cases made the sacrifice of leaving their Bahamian homes and families to become champions. )

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At the tender age of 35, Pauline Davis-Thompson (no relation to Mychal) has accomplished the two dreams she has had since she was a child: "I always wanted to win a gold medal in the Olympics and work in tourism, because I really enjoy meeting people and traveling," she says. The gold medal was the result of her lightning speed in the 400M relay at the 2000 games in Sydney, Australia. The job in tourism, at the Bahamas Tourism Office in Atlanta, GA, is likewise the result of her energy, hard work and contagious spirit. Thompson, who grew up playing field hockey, basketball and volleyball, never thought she'd find herself concentrating on one sport. But track, which she discovered in high school, brought focus to her pursuits. "It put me in such a structured environment," recalls Thompson, whose coach would knock on her window at 4 a.m. for three- and fourmile runs in pitch darkness. She made the high school team at Government High School in Nassau and competed in the Central America and Caribbean Junior Competition,

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Introduced to a tennis racket at age 4, Knowles recently won the Australian open.

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Join our festive theme parties lith lavish buffets and authentic

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flat on the dunes as an onshore wind stings my skin with sand. Beyond a shallow reef, the waves are wild, and whitecaps leap in the air. I think about McCabe. He survived the pirate attack and shipwreck only to die of yellow fever after his rescue. The fate of Homer's sailor is less certain. His life hangs in the balance on a wall in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Or does it? Homer offered a curious footnote to The Gulfstream. That same year, he painted ABer the Hurricane, a bright watercolor of a black sailor washed up on a beach beside the shattered hull of a sailboat. A squall is thinning and a weak sun shines on the young man's bare shoulders. Sitting in the Abaco dunes, looking out across the Northeast Providence Channel, I tuck my bare feet into the warm dry sand, and wonder if Homer meant to say the sailor survived the Gulf Stream? It is a question, I'm sure, that if asked, he didn't bother to answer. Homer never returned to The Bahamas; he died in the

autumn of 1910. But the faces and scenes that flowed from his brushes those two winters were never far from his heart. In his studio at Prout's Neck, Maine, numerous watercolors from Nassau were hanging at the time of his death. "He never had any difficulty parting with his oils," writes Cooper. "But he considered this group of watercolors to be among the finest he had ever done, and he had refused all offers for them." For Homer, no doubt, the timeless memories of The Islands Of The Bahamas were priceless.

Chicago (watercolor) , ,ie Brooklyn The Derelict (Sharks,, Museum Study for The Gulf Stream, F Cooper-Hewitt Museum, The Institution's National M L - - ~ - (New York) The following museums also own some of his non-Bahamas paintings (it might be worth , noting that these, like his Bahamas works, ar$,+\ sometimes out on loan to other museums or -, I ,b traveling exhibitions): -.. , ,$ f-:f'. " 5

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Most of Homer's Bahamas work is i n private collections. The few available for public viewing are: Sponge Fishing, 1885 - Canajoharie Library and Art Gallery, Canajoharie, New York The Gulf Stream, 1899 -The Metropolitan Museum of Art (oil painting) The Gulf Stream, 1889 (no typo, this one was done ten years earlier) -The Art Institute of

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Destination Bahamas is an easy one-stop shopping service that assists you with planning and booking reservations for your next trip t o The Islands Of The Bahamas.

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Dial 1-800-BAHAMAS (800-422-4262) to speak with a knowledgeable travel specialist. GREEN TURTLE CLUB AND MARINA

Abaco, Bahamas Tel: 242-365-4271 Fax: 242-365-4272 E-mail: info@greenturdeclub.com Website: www.greenturdedub.com

"The Green Turtle Club is as romantic durin the day as after dark." Robin Leacf L$styLes g t h e Rich and Famous

"The Green Turtle Club . . . is the only 4-star resort in the Abacos." Frommers 2000 Bahamm

>The Bacardi distillery Bahama Island plant, runs free, 20-minute shipping the coconuttours Monday through , mango-, bananaThursday at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m., and on and pineapple-flaFriday only at 11 a.m. vored rums throughThe distillery does not out the Caribbean, provide tours for groups and soon to the of less than ten people. Groups that would like United States. a tour must call at Armstrong$ least a day ahead. The resident of Beverage distillerv is located at ~ a c a r d and / Carmichael Importers LLC in Roads, in Nassau. Call New Orleans, Louisi(242) 362-1412. . ana, said his compa>U.S. citizens are ny decided to pick permitted to bring dutyup the Don free up to two litres line of rums as a (67.6 oz) of alcoholic beverages if one litre result of consumer is manufactured in The demand' "A lot of Bahamas or another people sent us Caribbean Basin Initiative . . COUntf'Y. Duty is charged e-mails asking how on any quantity over they can get Don two litres. Lorenzo rums in the United States," he said. "If you're on a cruise ship or vacationing in The Bahamas, you will encounter Don Lorenzo rum. It evokes the Bahamian way of life." It's also The Bahamas unique foothold in the growing market for rum, both flavored and straight. For years, rum was discredited by drinkers around the world, who viewed it as little more than a pallid filler for fruity drinks. Now, it is increasingly embraced as a fine spirit, like cognac or brandy. "There was a stigma that rum was what pirates drank, and that you only bought it when you couldn't afford anything better," said Luis Ayala, one of the spirit's premier ambassadors and author of The Rum Experience. That is changing fast, he said, as people discover the pleasures of a well-filtered, smooth rum, especially when complemented by other products born of the same climate and terrain - like cigars and tropical fruits. Ayala said there are somewhere between 50 and 100 rum distilleries in the world; a collector, he has more than 400 different bottles in his Texas house. The route The Bahamas is taking with its flavored rums is a promising one, Ayala said. "I'd venture to say that more flavored rums have hit the market in the last two years than any other spirit segment," he said, an indication that "the industry is aiming at the 20-30 age group."

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known as the "Olympics of the Caribbean," winning four gold medals and the nickname "Golden Girl." Thompson competed in the 1984 Olympics in Los Angeles, becoming a semifinalist. She attended the University of Alabama in Tuscaloosa, and still holds the NCAA record (50.8 seconds) for the 400-meter. In 1996, Thompson and her team of fellow Bahamian track stars Eldece Clarke-Lewis, Chandra Stump, Savatheda Fynes and Debbie Ferguson took the silver in the 4 x 400 relay at the Olympic Games in Atlanta, Georgia. Dubbed "The Silver Goddesses," the five-woman team (one would alternate as a sub in the four-woman race) had their moniker upgraded to "The Golden Girls" by capturing a gold at the 1999 World Championship in Seville, Spain. Thompson went on to take gold (4 x 100-meter relay) and silver (200-meter individual) at the 2000 Olympics in Sydney, Australia. While her days of rigorous training and competition have ended, Thompson says she still goes out for a run when she feels like it - "I can't imagine being any other way."

islands of champions

_ con~nuedimrn.page54

As a junior, Burrows was Killian's most valuable player and college scouts began to take notice. Their attention inspired him to work harder. "I knew that if I had a good season I could go pro." Sure enough, he had offers from several colleges, and a scout from the Atlanta Braves also took notice. The rest is history.

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Nassau's Mark Knowles, who was introduced to a tennis racquet at age 4, has 18 career wins, is one of the top doubles players in the world and is the winner of this year's Australian Open. "My mom worked at the tennis club and didn't have a baby-sitter, so I used to hang out, and I just picked it up," he says. From ages 10 to 16, Knowles attended a tennis academy in Bradenton, Florida. "It was a tough decision for my family to let me go but it was a great opportunity," Knowles says. At 16, he took a year off to travel with a team of players to gauge " ., his level. After that, he says, "I decided it would be best to go to school." Knowles enrolled at the University of ANGELO BURROWS L California, Los Angeles. "I played at Surveying the baseball diamonds around UCLA for 3 years before turning pro his home of Freeport, and considering in June of 1992," he says. Since then, the opportunities there for young playhe has been a finalist in all of the ers, the 15-year-old Angelo Burrows Grand Slams and says he owes much realized that if he wanted to pursue his of his success to the low-key lifestyle drcam of profcssional ballplaying, he of his youth. "It helps to be focused would have to move to the US to trair L and determined on court and chilled and compete for the big leagues. Hi: out off," he says with a laugh. Before dream has been realized: Burrows was matches, Knowles listens to music selected by the Atlanta Braves in the ANGEL0 BURROWS In April 2001, Burrows, drafted by the Atlanta Braves, from back home. "It takes me away ninth round of the June 1999 draft. "I was transferred to the Macon Braves, where he has from the pressures of the actual signed a pro contract and they gave me stolen over thirty bases in one season. match." He has contributed to the an itinerary of different levels to predevelopment of the National Tennis pare to be a major leaguer." Burrows finished third in runs scored on his team in the minors and was 8-for- Center in Nassau and started a charity event to benefit the Bahamas 11in stolen bases. "Last year, I got to play with the Atlanta Braves for Lawn Tennis Association Junior Tennis Program. His career goal: six games during spring training. It was my first chance to play in the "I would love to win at Wimbledon." big leagues and I got my first hit in five at bats." 1a I I I In April 2001, Burrows was transferred from the Danville Braves to the Macon Braves, where he is an outfielder and became the 16th RICK FOX Los Angeles Laker Rick Fox played softball and soccer at his high player in the team's history to stearover 30 bases in a season. When Burrows was in high school, he moved to Miami, where he played school, Kingsway Academy in Nassau, but the school had no offishortstop for Miami Killian High School for two years. Burrows, who cial basketball team, so, he recalls, he "learned to shoot hoops at describes himself as "an all-around player," was also invited to play for lunch time or after school." At 14, Fox joined an outside league Miami Dade PAL, a team of top high school players from Miami-Dade that played against teams from throughout The Bahamas. A year County, North Florida and Key West that competed nationally. He went later, he was ready to take the next step. "I wanted to pursue a colon to the Junior National Olympic tournament in Tucson, Arizona, and lege education and win a scholarship," he says, "and relocating seemed to be the only way to attract the attention of coaches." The to a national invitational tournament in Ft. Myers, Florida.

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ISLAND S C E N E winter/Spring 2003 97

islands of cham~ions

Nothing compares to the Out Islands of the Bahamas. Escape the crowds and discover virtually untouched pink sand beaches, a bonefishing paradise, and one of the world's largest barrier reefs.

Stroll beside pastel-colored homes and lush tropical landscapes.

notorious Hoosiers and the rich basketball lore of Indiana prompted Fox to make a big change: He left his home in The Bahamas to live with a family in Indiana, where he attended Warsaw High School and played basketball during his junior and senior years. Fox admits that he missed his family and his home, particularly the weather. However, he was somewhat prepared for the cold: "I used to go in and out of the freezers in my dad's ice plant to get away from the heat." Fox played for the University of North Carolina and joined the Boston Celtics for six years. In 1997, Fox was signed as a free agent by the Los Angeles Lakers. He was a member of the Lakers' 2000 championship team, appearing in all six games of the finals and averaging 17.3 minutes and 6.7 points per game. He has appeared in 56 career NBA playoff games. But despite his hectic game schedule, Fox always makes time to visit his hometown of Nassau. He returned to The Bahamas in 1999 to be married to actress Vanessa Williams in a civil ceremony. And last year, Fox was welcomed home in grand fashion when he toured high schools, teaching kids about the value of setting goals. "I knew I wanted to be an NBA player, but I should have said I wanted to be an NBA champion,"' says the star. "I want to teach kids not to be afraid to set their goals as high as possible." Fox created The Rick Fox Charitable Organization to promote athletics for Bahamian youth and to bring scouts to The Islands so young people won't have to leave home to attract their attention. "Although the rewards were great professionally, I didn't grow up with my family during my teen years and I wouldn't wish that on any kid."

Dine on fresh delicacies from the daily catch. And be enchanted by the welcoming smiles of the Bahamian people.The Out Islands. Only an hour from Florida, yet a million miles away.

o*T T H E ~ I S L A N D SOF THE

BAHAMAS

It Just Keeps G e t t i n g B e t t e r '

Sponsored by the Bahama Out Islands Promotion Board

1.800.OUT ISLANDS (688.4752) www. bahama-out-islands.com

MYCHAL THOMPSON

When Mychal Thompson was growing up in Nassau in the 1960s, athletics for youngsters wasn't stressed with the same intensity as it was in the US. Neverthe-

less, Thompson's boyhood in f i e Bahamas taught him "that there is always a tomorrow; sports is not life or death." He finds the "laid-back island mentality" a contrast to the American approach, wherein "if you don't win today, the whole world will come to an end." Thompson grew up playing soccer, cricket and softball, but after a few pickup basketball games, found he had a natural ability for the sport and left Nassau Queens College High School in 11th grade to play for Jackson High School in Miami. He lived with a family friend. "My family was reluctant," he recalls, "but when they thought about it, they realized it was a great opportunity fc me. It was a huge adjustment since it was my first time away from home by myself." A quiet and serious boy, he focused on basketball. "I was too homesick to consider getting into any trouble," he says. Thanks to raw talent and hard work, Thompson became one of the team's best players by his senior year. Before long, college recruiters from all over the country took notice, and Thompson chose the University of Minnesota. Thompson eventually became the first overall pick of the NBA in 1978, an honor that he likens to "being class valedictorian, sports-wise." He was drafted by the Portland Trailblazers, where he played forward and center for eight years. "There were so many great players in the pros, I had to learn to play the game all over again." He then spent four months with the San Antonio Spurs and then moved to the Los Angeles Lakers, where he played for four and a half years. "The people back home followed my career closely and treated me like a hero." Thompson says. He now lives in Minnesota, where he is the television analyst for the Minnesota Timberwolves on WFTC (Ch. 29), a local station in Minneapolis, and Fox Sports Net. His sons, ages 11and 14, are already showing talent in baseball, football and basketball, and Thompson says he will definitely "encourage them to go to the next level."

N ~ t h i n compares g t o the Out Islands of the Bahamas.

7.;

Escape the crowds and discover virtually untouched pink sand beaches,

a bonefishing paradise, and one of the world's largest barrier reefs. Stroll beside pastel-colored homes and lush tropical landscapes. Dine on fresh delicacies from the daily catch. And be enchanted by the welcoming smiles of the Bahamian people.

. .

. > . . I

ISLANDS OF THE It J u s t Keeps Getting

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With their exquisite golden- and pink-sand beaches, lush tropical landscapes, unsullied * ,

waters and vear-round sunsbine,'~heIslands

Of: ~ h e ' ~ a h a m couldn't as have sprung from the

sea in a more perfect shape for.21"-century vacationers. I he archipelago begins 3s miles off the Florida coast and contains more than 700 islands, ay 01 me AI'-

scattered over 100,OYt' square

ximately 30 of them inhabited,

-tic.

If you want pristinebeaches, ,..opping, historical

NassauParadise Island, where there's l__.ltyto dc

dining and'nightlife, head straight for ts to see. Or perhaps Grand Bahama

ers a mix of sur -7d fun with shominr, qamblin :

If it's a tranquil trip Out Irl--ds, where life ,till

~d ecotourism adventures. ing.

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at a slower

;ely unaffected by major development:

Ultimately, wherever you go, beautiful beaches and dazzling sunshine prevail. nd whatever you

and-hy-island info

in our FodorS Micro

The aha am^=

nassaul~aradise. island '

land, inagua & -long i5

- ~ x u l ~bin ias

grand bahama island

destinations .

le to Visit .

Throughout the year, The Islands

Of The ~ah,amasoffer an extensive 'calendar of festivals, cultural

-8

New Year's Day, a public holiday

activities and sporting events to '

enhance your vacation experience:'

(The Islands Of The Bahamas)

7-9 Nassau Sailboat Race Week

Expo Bahamas 2003

(NassauIParadise Island)

and tasty co'nch-cracki ng contests \

regattas, here's a rundown of the

bassi bilities. For information, call 000-BAHAMAS (800-224-2627) or visit www.bahamas.'c~m.

Baha

New Year's Day Junkanoo Parade

I From colorful Junkanoo parades to elegant teas 'and breathtaking

14 Abaco Ceramics Exhibition & Sale (Abaco)

mar 2003 Grand Bahama Humane Society Pet Show Annual International Square Celebration (Andros)

Nicholl's Town Music, Art & Craft Festival (Andros)

Annual Alton Lowe Art Exhibition (NassauIParadise Islano)

Annual International Dog Show & Obedience Trials (NassaulParadise Island)

Snipe Winter Sailing Championships (NassaulParadise Island)

60. I S L A N D SCENE Winterfspring 2003

of the experience. Aside from your bathing suit, take light-

are affected by trade-wind flow

weight clothing. If you're ' going during the high season, between mid-December and

generated by an area of high atmospheric pressure cove'ring a large part of the subtropical North Atlantic, so the climate

April, toss in a sweater for the

varies little during the year.

a few of the more sophisticated hotels require jackets for men and dresses for women at

occasional cool evening. Only

The most pleasant time is between December' and May, when the temperature averages

70-75 degrees Fahrenheit. *

From June through November, the vast region of the Caribbean is prone to experience tropical

dinner. There is no such dress

code in any of The Bahamas' casinos.'However, bathing suits are not acceptable on downtown Streets or public areas.

storms. Sophisticated tracking technology is in place to allow for early warnings and

<now to make sure

- .my -.-

evacuation. Tropical storm formations can be located thousands of. miles and several days away from The Bahamas.

need to

the 7Q0 5

,, ,3s s fun,

ljoyable and trouble ree.

VD SCENE Winter/Spring 2003 63

land, Ireland, Israel, Mexico, Portugal, Sp

uras, Nicaragua, Panama, Paraguay, Peru,

and most Commonwealth cou a visa to enter The Bahamas.

onwardlreturn tickets; a birth certificate with raised seal (original or certified copy) plus an official photo identification are sufficient. country for 7 2 hours. If less than 7 2 hours, the duty-free exemption is $200; the next $1,000 is taxed at 4%. Canadian residents (outside of the

less than five years ago, is a v identification.

visitors outside of the country for at least 7 days may bring home C$500 of duty-free goods. For more information and specific regulations, please contact your country's Customs office: U.S. (800"51-9999) or 506-636-5064 (outside Canada.) From countries outside of the EU, including The

valid passport; a certified birth certificate with a raised seal (original or certified copy) plus an

liters of fortified or sparkling wine or liqueurs; liters of still table wine; 6 0 ml of perfume; other goods. For more information and specific regulations please contact HM Customs and Excise's National Advice Service (085-010-

with onwardlreturn tickets.

Citizens of the following countries require pas ports but no visas: Belgium, Greece, Iceland, Italy, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Netherlands, Norway, San Marino, South Africa, South Korea, Switzerland and Turkey. Clrzens of the follow~ngcountries requlre pasr

However, there is a $15 departure from Grand Bahama Island) for all tr years Of age.

,,*

rel~geon

This program gives visitors, an intimate glimpse of . Bahamian life. The extensive Programs are On NassaulParadise Island and Grand Bahama Island, where coordinators match visitors with Bahamians who' have similar interests. People-toPeople also sponsors an afternoan tea at Government House in Nassau on the last Friday of each month (January August). For more informati01 call 'the People-to-People unit at 242-326-5371, fax 242-356-0434 or e-mail pwillia'm@baharnas.com.

Langwage: Bahamians speak English with a lilt influenced by their Scottish, Irish and/or

Rel~gion:Bahamians are church-goilig people and you'll find places df worship representing most faiths on NassauIParadise Island, Grand Bahama Island and other islands.

1 he 1.s AirmaiIp~aLLxdsto the UniteU Statks, ~ a n a d athe , United Kingdom, Europe, Australia . and ~ o u i hAmerica require a 50-cent stamp. An 'airmail letter costs 65 cents per half ounce:

camtan lzJe

Junkamo is a major Bahamian

chebration. Held yearly on. , Boxing Day (the day after Christmas) and New Year's Day, Junkanoo celebrations feature * colorful costtimes; elabarate floats and distinctly Bahamian music featuring goatskin . drums, clanging cowbells and shrilling whistles.

By air: The major gateways to The Bahamas include NassauIParadise Island and Freeport, on Grand Bahama Island. There are also same

direct flights from Florida to Out Islands airports like ~ a r ' s hHarbour and Treasure Cay in the Abacos, Cat Islan Exuma, Eleuthera, Long Island and San Salvador. Most flights to The Bahamas connect through major U.S. gateway cities in New York, New Jersey, Boston, Atlanta; Philadelphia, Cincinnati, Charlotte, Ft. Lauderdale, Miami, Tampa, Orlando and other Florida citles, depending on the airline. If you are flying

whether you would rather makc one connection through a Florida city, or two-through a Florida city and Nassau. From Canada there are direct

Unlimited (242-377-8993) 01 Southern Air (242-377-2014). You can also chedk to see if your Out Island hotel kharters its own plane.

flights from Montreal and ' Toronto, and out of Europe there are direct connections from London and Paris.

By ferry: The Bahamas Fast Ferries' high-speed catamaran connects Nassau to Harbour Island and North Eleuthera ' daily; and to Gavernor's [arbour and Central Eleuthera twice weekly. The trip lasts 2 hours each way (242-323-2166).

By boat: One cruise servi operates between South Florida and Freeport, Grand Bahama Island. Freeport is the only town to which there 1s a passenger boat connection from the U.S. However, Nassau, Freeport and several Out lslands are included as ports of call on the itinerary of many of the major international cruise lines. Cruise information: Discovery. Cruises operates daily between Ft. Lauderdale and Grand Bahama Island (800-866-8687 U.S. or 800-937-4477 florid^,. . . The trip is 5 hours each way. -

Bahamas SeaRoad Sea Link carries passengers and cars between Nassau and Eleuthera three times weekly and betwken Nassau and Andros two times per week. The journey takes approximately 3 hours (242-323-2166).

For the hardy and adventurous, there is passenger service available on the mailboat that transports freight weekly from Nassau to all major islands. Boats travel weather . permitting; accommodations are rudimentary and on a first-come-first serve basis (242-393-1064).

ty boat: If you're setting s a ~ ourself, note that,cruising . ,,oats must clear customs at the nearest port of entry before beginning any diving or fishing. Cruising boats clearing customs must pay a $100 fee, which covers a cruising permit,.fishing

permit (sport fishing only) and any overtime costs incurred by

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the Immigration Officer. The

first four passengers are free; there is an additional $15 fee for each additional passeng over 6 years old.

By bw Buses on N m a f l d S e Island and Grand Bahama Island are called jitneys. Exact change of $1is required. By tam.

1x1

(800-224-2627), check out the Ministry debsite at www.bahamas.com or get in touch with one of the tourism promotion boards listed below

For infortnation, contact the Bahamas Association

also be hired by the hour for $45, and $22.50 for every

for the Physically Disabled (242-322-2393).

additional half hour.

By car: In The Bahamas your own dnver's liceme is acceptable for up to'three months. Major international Car Rental agencies s~ichas Hertz, Avis, Budget, Tb,nfty and Dollar . are represented on Nassau1 Paradise Island and Grand Bahama Island.

I S L A N D S C E N E Winterlspring 2003

contact The Bahamas Ministry of Tourism at 800-BAHAMAS

The Associatioh can also provide temporary ramps and other portable fadilitic

mile, 40 cents for each additional ' 1 4 mile. Cabs can

easy access to rooms and

from the airport or provide othe transportation. Reservations must be made we11 in advance

I14

the left.

Bahamas 2002 at your local bookstore or visit online at www.fodors.com. You can also

for hire that can pick you up

Idand, the stipulated rates were $3 for two pasiengers

because most cars are American with the steering wheel on

facilities for people with disabilities, in the way of elevators, ramps and

redevelopment in 1995. The. Bahamas Association for the Physically Disabled has a van

hotels and cruise-ship docks. At press time, on Grand Bahama and NassauIParadise

road, which can be confusing

~ i c up k a copy of Fodor's The

accessibility when it underwen

and outside all of the main

like the British, Bahamians drive on ;he left side of the

The Bahamas have specia

Downtown Nassau took into account wheelchair

States, there are taxis waiting at every airport. Taxis also wai all aloni Bay Street in Nassau

Rules of the road: Remember,

For trip-pgdqbgcinfoymation,

public areas.

the Unitt;~

-1%- ii

~~~t major hotels through

Promotion Board, phone: 888-627-7281 or 954-888-5900 fdx: 954-236-0733 . www.nassauparadiseisland.con~

Bahamian art or dine by candlelight beneath prints of old Nassa serenaded by the soft;island-inspired calypso music. Culture glamour abound: Coffeehouses advertise poetry readings and bist nights, and aldng the streets you'll find elegant stores that ma bigger towns would be lucky to have.

Pi 1it li N G With the escalation of Bahamian tourism, the preparati of meals at the better dining spots in Nassau,,as well as Paradi Island and Cable Beach, has become as sophisticated as any leadi U.S. c i t i European chefs brought in by the top restaurants ha trained young Bahamians in the skills of fine cuisine: Chines Indian, Mexican, Creole and Japapese fare have also become widely available on menus. One night you might be munc conch fritters' and pall-fried grouper at an out-of-the-way lmal and the next you mikht be savoring a Grand Marnier souffl6 in a r--cy French bistro. . ,

S I N 0 S Two of the three glitzy casinos in I'he Bahamas are on NassauIParadise Island-the Crystal Palace Casino at the Naswu Marriott Resort on Cable Beach and the Atlantis Casino bn Paradise Island. Both hav'e the additional attractions of aboveaverage restaurants and lounges. The 'Crystal Palace offers a dazzling revue of Broadway and Caribbean entertainment.

n.r 4,

Arawak Cay, located on West Bay Street across FA1 zAAstoric Fort Charlotte, is a nice spot for a quick, local-style lunch. Known to the Nassau residents as "The Fish Frji" Arawak Cay is one of 'the best places to chat with locals, play a game of dominoes or sample Bahamian fare. ' ~ x ~ l o nearby re attractions such a s Nassau Botanic Gardens and Ardastra Gardens, home of the marching flamingo. 1

3road, palm-lined Bay Street is' alive with commercial activity. Shops angle for tourist' dollars with fiye ,imported goods at duty-free prices while Straw Market vendors bargain for the same dollar with straw work, T-shirts and jewelry. There's also a handful of shops overflowing with authentic Bahamian crafts. food supplies and other,delights. n mile or so easr 01 town, unaer the "old" Paraa~seIsland Bridge (a new bridge now supp~ementsthe original), Potter's Cay Dock is inother colorful scene: Sloops bring catcl?es of fish and conch, while open-air stalls carry fresh fruit, vegetables and local foodsfreshly made, conch salad predominates. .

,,RA D 1,

, L A N I) ~h~ grac&,l, arched paradise ~

~ Bridges lead to and from the extravagant world of Paradise Island. Until 1962, paradise Island was largely underdeveloped and known as Hog Island. A&P heir Huntington Hartford changed the name when he built the island's first resort complex. Although several huge high-rise resorts have been erected since then-as have miny million-dollar houses-you can still find several quiet ,

I S L A N D S C E N E Winter/Spring 2003

Diving operation: are plentiful in Nassau and most hotels have diving instructors whc teach short courses, followed the next day by a reef trip. Avic watersports fans will find a range of possibilities, including waterskiing, sailing, windsurfing and deep-sea fishing. Or simp11 cruise the clear Bahamian waters for an exciting day trip or 2 pleasurable evening.

Fishing and boating enthusiasts will be happy to know that tht waters here are generally smooth and alive with many species o game fish. A favorite sailing and fishing spot just west of Nassau it the ~ o n ~ ofi ethe Ocean a mile-deep channel that stretches fo . 100 miles. v r r a ~ ~ ~will ~ find e rthes ClubS 18-hole, 72-paL championship course completely redesigned by PGA golfer Tom Weiskopf. Golfers may also enjoy the South Ocean Golf Course, a: well as the Radishon Cable each Golf Course.

NassauIParadise Island also has more than 8 0 tennis courts Among other imperishable traditions, the Bljtish handed down tc

GE =

= =

WaYaro

-mile island in a day, including at, and getting around is easy., oter for a more

adventurous ride. ,

Tofind out more about NassauJParad~seIsland, pick up a copy oJ Fodor's The Bahamas 2002 at a local bookstore or v~sitwww.fodors.com. Turn to page 103 in t h ~ srsme o j Island Scene to get informatzon.on accomrnodntronc and resoyrces. You can ca11888-627-7281 or go onlrne.nt l ~ ~ d www.nassa~paradiseisland.com.

In Grand Bahama 'Island a major face-lift is in progress.

--edkvelopin$the entire Lucayan strip. The project includes hree new luxury hotels .,casino, two .181hnlg golf courses ning village and rater uark. :onvention facilities. a s [ou can choose

resort complexes to

LIUIII a I r l u l l g

apartments with kitche

hotels a have their .own beaches and watt sts at ~ u c a ~ ports actiyities. In addition, some 60 miles of magnificent,. . mcluftered stretches of sand extend between Freeport-Lacaya md McLeans Town, on the isolated eastern .end of the islan '

Garden Garden

md exqtic fare. such as Indian or'Japanese. A Lative fish frv'

snd Straw Market, The Perfu Fac , P o

head; Pygmy Caves (in the same area as Angel's Camp), formed by overgrown ledges that cut into the reef; Zoo Hole, west of Lucaya, with huge'caverns at 75 feet containing various types of marine life; and Indian Cay Light, off West End, featuring sev.era1 reef. that form a vast sea garden.

takes place on Wednesday evening at Smith"s Point, east of Lqcaya (taxi drivers knob'the way); here you can sample fresh seafoodconch, grouper, lobster-cooked outdoors at the beach. In the hundreds of stores, shops and boutiques ional Bazaar and at the Port Lucaya Marketplace, you can find duty-free goods cpsting up to 40% less than what you might pay back home. At the several perfume shops in the Bazaar and at Port Lucaya, fragrances can often be purchased at a sweetsmelling 30% below U.S. prices. Be sure to limit your haggling to the straw markets.

.,.

"1 G I1 TL I F ri Whatever day and night activities are offered in ",and Baharna Island, there's no doubt that the Casino at The Royal Oasis is among the island's top attractions. There is a dizzying array of slot machines, craps and blackjack tables, roulette and baccarat to amuse novices and high-rollers alike. At press time, the newly renovated casino at Our Lucaya Beach & Golf Resort is expected to open by late 2002. .

. .. . . -5

The four championship golf courses, t w ~ at The Royal Oasis Golf Resort and Casino (formerly Bahamia) For evening and late-night entertainment, Grand Bakama delivers and two at Our Lucaya Beach & Golf Resort, are major attractions calypso music, discos, live rriusic lm dancing in hotel lounges and on Grand Bahama Island. As part of the redevelopment in Lucaya, lavish Las Vegas-style sequins-and-feathers revues. the new Reef Golf Couise was redesigned by Robert Trent Jones, Jr. Annual events at Our Lucaya Country Club and Butch Harmon Golf School include the Breitling Pro-Am; the Grand Baham, ToJind out more about Grand Bahama Island, pick up a copy of Fodor's Island Pro-Am Golf Tournament takes plhce at the Royal Oasi The Bahamas 2002 at a local boobtore or uzszt www.fodors.com. Turn to courses. The renovated Ruby and Emerald Golf Courses host thc page 110 i n thzs zssue of Island Scene to get znformatzon on accommod a t i o n ~and resources. You can also call 800-448-3386 or go onlcne at Bogey Bash Golf Tournament and the Nat Moore Invitational Go1 www.grand-bahama.rom. Tournament. The island also has more than 50 tennis courts, man lighted for night play. , , ,

E C _ -ADVE.

_ _

S Eco-sensitive visitors will appreciate

_. -

Grand Bahama's many opportunities to enjoy solitude and nature. . Four spots shouldn't be missed: Hydroflora Gardens, Parrot Jungle' Garden of the Gmves, The Bahamas National Tmst's (BNT) Lucayan National Park and the BNT Rand Nature Centre. There are also many stimulating ecotourism adventures available including kayak trips through mangrove flats, hiking trips through the national parks, adventure tours to the East End of the island, bird-watching excursions to spot Grand Bahama's 18 species not found elsewhere in North America, snorkeling to& of coral reefs and horseback rides through pine forests and along ocean beaches.

FISHING A N D

L T E R S P O R T S Surroundingwater

luie anglers from around the world to cpmpete 'in big-game and bonefishing tournaments, such as the World International Invitational Bonefishing Championship held in Grand Bahama every November. The island is also a mecca for scuba divers, and is home of the world-famous Underwater Explorers Society (UNEXSO), considered one of the finest diving schools in the world. There are some especially fascinating dive sites near the West En( of Grand Bahama Island. Some of the maip dive sites include Theo's Wreck, a 230-ft. st.eel freighter that was sunk in 1982 near 's a reef about 1%miles off Lucayan Beach, Freeport; ~ n ~ e lCamp, offering a scattering of small coral heads surrounding one large --

With their translucent waters and excellent mariha facilities, The Abacos, a boomerang-shape cluster of islands in the northeastern Bahamas and a center for boatbuilding, have attracted sailing and yachting fans over the years. The two main islands are Great Abaco and Little Abaco. However, The Abacos stretch for 130 miles, from tiny Walker's Cay in the north to Hole-in-the-Wall in the southwest. Many of these cays (pronounced "keys") are verj small, providing exquisitely desolate settings for private picnics. The Abacos also have their fair share of lagoons, tranquil bays and inlets and pine forests where wild boar roam. Aost visitors to rile iluacos make their first stop on the east coast of Great Abaco Island aL Marsh Harbodr, the third-largest town in The Bahamas and the commercial center of The Abacos. The town is well stocked with restaurants and shops (as well as the only stoplight in The Abacos, a source of great local pride). Besides having its own airport, Marsh Harbour is considered by boaters to be one of the easiest harbors to enter and has several full-service marinas. The Abacos' naturally protected waters,

r their beauty, have helped the area become the sailing capital of The Bahamas. The islands" resorts are particularly popular with yachting and fishing 'enthusiasts. because of the fine boating facilities available. The Abacos also play host annually to internationally famous regaitas and to a half-dozen game-fish tournaments.

The charming village of Hope Gwn, where most of the families among its 300-some residents have lived for generations, lies southeast of Marsh Harbour on Elbow Cay. A ferry from Marsh Harbour arrives here several times a day. You'll find few cars

first see a much-photographed Bahamas landmark, a 120-foot-tall, peppermint-striped lighthouse built in 1838. On weekdays thb lighthouse keeper will welcome you at the top for a superb view of the sea and the nearby cays. .The town's saltbox cottages-painted in brilliant blues, purples, pinks and yellows-with their white picket fences, flowering gardens, and porches and .sills decorated with conch shells, will remind you of a New England seaside community-Bahamian style. Man-0-War Cay, which is : LO 20-minute boat ride from Marsh Harbour by ferry or aboard a small rented outboard dinghy, remains the boatbuilding center for The ' Bahamas; its residents,turn out traditionally ci-afted wood dinghies as well as high-tech craft made of fiberglass. A mile north of the island, you can dive to the.wreck of the USS Adirondack, which sank after hitting a reef in 1862. The cay is also a marvelous place to walk. Two of its main roads are often shaded with arching sea-grape trees interspersed with palms and pines. If you love beautiful empty beaches and grassy dunes, you'll enjoy Great Guana Cay. T h e cries of roosters are about the loudest sounds you hear in the village, and cars are absent from the narrow palm-lined roads that are bordered by clapboard cottages with picket fences. Treasure cap lies 20 miles north of Marsh Harbour. It's home to a major resort, Dick Wilson-designed golf course and 150-slip marina. It is accessible by ferry boat to several other cays, including Green Turtle Cay, a tiny island steeped in Loyalist history and surrounded by several deep bays, sounds and a fine ocean beach. Outside of the resort, New Plymouth appeals to tourists for its charming New England ambience. A little further north lies Spanish Cay, featuring several handsome beaches and one small resort. Tofind out more about The 'Abacos, pick up a'copj of Fodor's The Bahamas 2002 at a local bookstore or vzszt www.fodors.com. Turn topage 114 Ln thzs zssue of Island Scene to get znformatzoi on hccornmodatzon, and resources. You can also call 800;OUT ISLANDS (800-688-8752)or go onlzne a1 ww~v.bahaina-out-islands.com or www.bahamas.com.

i all.

.ts with such naines as North Bight, Middle Bight and South Big for its excellent bonefishing and diving opporturiiti

The

serrated by channels and t , nd is popular wi ports lovers

The Andros Barrier Reef-the third-largest reef in the world (behind those'of .,,stralia within a mile of the east shore and runs ior 140 miles. It has an enchanting variety of easily accessible to divc Ur ia adventurers also have th, port investigate wrecks off Andros. The vnac, a steel-hulled freighter that sank in 1952, lies in 4 feet of water close to Nicholl's Town. And off the waters of Fresh Creek, at 70 feet, lies the Barge Wreck, a 56lfoot-long World War I1 LCM, wl ' L was sunk in - - ' - c r ~ an '

Andros lures fis nthusiasts to fabulous bonefishing flats. For instance, bonefishing is the ~rincipalappeal of a quiet area called Cargill Creek,. with lvadeable flats just 100 yards offshore. There are also popular bonefishing flats near Fresh Creek and Andros Town. Guided fishing trips can be arranged through local hotels. The 3ossibilities include bonefishing, deep-sea fishing, (wahoo, kingfish, tuna), fly f ng, ref' 'ishing and asonal 3n fishing. loll's Town, at the I leastern corner of Andro the largest village on'the island, with a population of abot 30. , friendly community has stores for supplies and groceries, L few hotels, a public medical clinic, a telephone station and '1 restaurants that serve Bahamian fare.

and Belize)rine life an

D R O S I A Fresh Creek is where Andr ?' 0F 1 ric, a Bahamian version of batik, is made. This brilliantly colored fabric is'deslgned and dyed at the Androsia Batik Work: Factory, a three-mile ride from Andros Town airport. The batik is turned into wall hangings and clothing for men and wc--1, which are sold throughout The Bahamas and the Caribbean. The village of Red Bays, llear the northern tip of the island, is notable as the home of the descendents of a group of Seminole 1' lans and iunaway slaves who continue to live as a tribal T

R D l N G AN I h e islands lush 11u5 and dense forests green interior is .coverea witn wild of pine and mahogapy, fringed on its ,,;stern edge b y mile; of mangrove swamp. The fo;ests provide nesting grounds for parrots. partridges, quail, white-crowned pigeons and whistling ducks, anc huqters come to Andros from September to M a x h in search of game. Andros's western shdre, which lies 30 miles west of Nassau, is utterly barren and not recommended to yachter~.

i T f 5 P O R T S Remote and undeveloped, Mangr ws anglers, divkrs, naturalists and those who really want to get away from it all. Separated from the north and south parts of Andros by bights, Mangrove Cay i; an 18-mile island unto itself. Andros has four airports: San Andros in the north and Andros Towr in Central Andros, a s well a s Mangrove Cay and Congo Tow tel f le proper airport. South Andros. check with you

To find out more about Andros, p ~ c kup a copy oj Fodor's The Bah, 2002 at a local bookstore or V L S L ~~ w w . f o d o r ~ . ~Turn ~ m .topage 120 zn t h ~ : usue of Island Scene to get znforrnation on accornrnodat~onsand risources -You can nlio call 800-OUT ISLANDS (800-688-4752) br go onlzne ai www.bahama-out-~slands.comor www.baharnas.com.

B13Y [ N I .Geographically speaking, Biinini is the nearest of the Bahamian islands to the U.S. mainland. It consists of a handful of islands and cays just 40 miles east of Miami. Bitnini has long been known as the big-game fishing capital of The Bahamas. Deep-sea anglers find bliss here, for in its waters roam great warriors such as marlin, swordfish, giant tuna, wahoo; sailfish, dolphin and bonefish. Throughout the year, more than a dozen billfish tournaments draw anglers to the Gulf Stream and the Great Baharna Bank from t h e United States, Canada, Britain a n d t h e rest of Europe. The fishing tournament season runs f r o h March through September, when the Saltwater Sporlsman Magazine Group Tournament, Bimini Native Tournament, The Bacardi Billfish Tournament and Bimini Open Angling Tournament are all held. -. - . . ., Marinas such as Weech's Bimini Dock, the imini Big Game Fishing Club and Bimini's Blue Water, all on the eastern side of North Bimini;pro~ide Inore than 150 slips f o r oceangoing craft, many 'of them belonging to weekend visitors who make the short trip from Florida ports. The western side of North Bimini, along Queen's Highway, is one long stretch of beautiful beach.

I V I N C Bimini offe~ssome excellent diving opportunities. The Bimini Barge Wreck rests in 90 feet of water; Little

E C [ 7

, *

i t

Caverns is a medium-depth dive with scattered coral heads, small tunnels and swim-throughs. Rainbow Reef is a shallow dive spot popular for fish gazing. And, of course, there's ~tlant'is,a curious rock formation that is purported to he the found "lost city" from a prehistoric civilization.

in search of natu~albeauty and blessed seclusion. t u s h , hilly and unspoiled, shrouded in'an air of mysticism, Cat Island is a tranquil isle of s shing villages. Hkre and there, a few resorts have sprung up to take advantage of a coast ringed with tunning-and usually deserted-beaches.

Slender Cat Island is about 50 miles long, boot-shaped, with high cliffs and dense forest Its shores are ringed with mile upon mile of exquisite, untrampled beaches edged with casuarina trees. It i s 130 miles southeast of Nassau and is a close neighbor of San Salvador, the reputed landing place of Christopher Columbus, Many Cat Islanders, however, maintain that Columbus. landed here instead, and that Cat Island was once known a s San Salvador. Upon chatting with other residents, you might find some who knew or are related to native son Sidney Poitier, who left as a youth before becoming the famed movie actor and'director. The biggest event of the year remains the Annual Cat Island Regatta in August, which draws yachters to this faraway island. For a glorious view of the ocean on both sides of the island, try not to miss the slightly laborious experience of climbing to the top of 206-ft. Mt. A1vernia:The Hermitage there provides a perfect? inspiring place to pause for quiet contemplation.

, pzck up a copy of Fodor's The www.fodors,com. Turq to t tnformntzon on accommodatsorzs and resources. You can also call 800-OUT ISLANDS (800-6H-4752) or go onlsne at ww$ahama-out-islands.com or wwc\i.ba!hamas.com. or

VLSLL

Divers, snorkelers and bonefishers fi.nd plenty to keep them busy on these adjoining,.very undeveloped islands with miles of virgin barrier reef. Both Crooked Island and Acklins Island are best known to travelers for splendid tarpon- and bonefishing. Tlie islands are about as remote as populated islands in The Bahamas get. Crooked Island is 3 0 miles long and surrounded by 45 miles of barrier reefs that are ideal for diving. They slope from 4 feet to 5 0 feet, then plunge to 3,600 feet in the Crooked Island Passage, once one of the most important sea roads for ships following the southerly route from the West Indies to the Old World. The one-room airport is on Colonel Hill, where you. get an uninterrupted view of the region all the way to the narrow passage between Crooked Island and Acklins Island. There are two landmark lighthouses. The sparkling-wliite Bird Rock Lighthouse in the north once guarded the Crooked Island Passage. The rotating flash from its 115-foot tower still welcomes pilbts and sailors to the Pitt's Town Point Landing resort. The Castle Island lighthouse, at the souther; tip of Acklins Island, formerly served as a La---for pirates who used to retreat there after attacking ships. '

Pitt's Town Point Landing and Bay Front Retreat are the main lodging choices on these islands. r i t t s lown Point Landing is a secluded property on the north end that has miles of open beach on its doorstep. Diving, bonefishing and deep-sea fishing can be arranged with local outfitters.'Bay Front Retreat is a recently constructed, cozy 5-room A Quick Look :I---. .. . ' : beachfront house located in Colonel Hill.

Notable for its beaches, surfing and excellent diving, Eleuthera is considered by many o u t Islands aficionados to be one of the mast enjoyable destinations in The Bahamas. Its appealing features include miles and miles of unspoiled beach, green forests, rolling hills.and rich, red soil in the north that produces pineapples and a . variety of vegetables. . Eleutheran residents, who live in boldly colored houses adorned with bougainvillea, welcome visitors warmly; most will be happy to let you know where to find bargains at a little tucked-away straw market or recommend the he51 restanrant on the island for conch chowder. The famous strip of pink-sand beach a t neighboring Harbour Island gets more attention, but the eastern shore of Eleuthera, from remote James Point to Governor's Harbour, is also pink sand. i h e village of Rock Sound is one of Eleuthera's largest settlements and has a small ailport seiviiig the southern part of

buy fresh fruit-citrus

in the winter and luscious papayas and

Ja,,,es Cousteau's biologists. Gaulding's Cay is also a nice 1,50( foot shelling stretch for beachcombers. Just norill of Gaulding iy, distinguished Windermere Island is the site of vacation home the rich and famous, including members of the British 1-oyalfamil e l-~oines-th ~ n ' tplan on any drive-by ogling of t h ~ s million-dollar curity gate prevents sightseers from passing.

IhE

ES Just off the north coast of Eleuther

lies tlny Harhour

nd. It has dften been called the Nantucket ( the Caribbean anu m e prettiest of the Out Islands because of its 5 miles of powdery sand beach tinted pink by powdered shells an-' coral, as well as its pastel-color clapbnard houses w t among whit picket fences, nairow lanes, quaint s l and tro

The Bahamas 2002 at a local bookstore or ~ L E wwa.fotlor~.com. L ~ Turn to page 126 In thas wsue oflsland Scene to get ~njbrhationon accomrnodc+.--.a an? resourcey. You can also call 800-Ol/TISIANDS (800-688-4752) or ~nlzn www.bahama-out-islan(is.comor www.hdhdrnas.rom.

Iundreds of little cays (365 to be more exact) i..-..A The Exumas a prime cruising ground urrounding waters are legendary for their desolate islands, coves, bays and harbors. 'he Exumas begin less than 35 miles southeast of Nassau and stretch south for about 90 miles. Th slands, Great Exuma and Little Exuma, lie in the south, connected by a br ;. ,

.o main

>ourist activity is centered in the capital of George Town, on Great Exuma, T..-:e residents are ....~ w for n friendliness, and whose lovely Elizabeth Harbour fills with boats during the Out Islands Regatta in April. luring the regatta, which is considered one of The Bahamas' most prestigious and'popular sailing event ocally built wooden work boats compete for trophies. On shore, the town becbmes a three-day festival of unk---r, pa is, Goombay mu - , and crafts fairs and continuous merriment '

I,H,AG lthougli George Town is the islar hive VI i rity, it's "' ' ' .e you past a straw mar till on the no-need-for-a-traffic-light scale. A leisurely stroll around tl ~ n da few shops. You can buy fruit and vegetables and bargain with fishermen for some of the day's catch at Governmt Vharf. Stop to savor a coconut turnov'er or delectable .bream I dnd pastries at Mom's Bakery, a white van parked on the si2nf the road. ~ ' ~ l l minternational a Airport is nine miles frc ee Towr fesiues beurge Town, visitors-LVThe Exumas can also enpy he <harms of several other attractive towns, welcoming small hotels, the ~ x u h aLand and Sea Park (a favorite with snorkelers and bird-watchers) and a 7-mile beach fabled - its seashells. , 'he old village of William's To;vll lies at the southern tip , ,ittle Exuma Island. Wild cotton still grows out in these parts, along the way to the Hermitage, a former plantation house with ruinssof slave cottages nearby. Five miles south of George Town lies Rolle Town, a typical Exuma village, where residents grow onions, mangoes, bananas and other crops.

t over a mile qff George Town's s h o ~ elies Stocking Island. The 7-tnil-e-long islaqd has onli seven inhabitants, a gorgeous stretch of.white beach rich seashellsand plenty of,good snorkeling sites. Jacques Cousteau's team is said to have trave1ed.a length of s--'

rlentk of 70 fept.

nu UI s-WILII names ~ I K Y uana bllu Leaf-stretch north -reat Exuma. Allan's Cay, at the northernmost tip of The Exumas, .is home to the rare protected Bahamian iguana. Sta Cay is a favorite destination for yachters and makes the perfect .home base for visiting the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park. This 176-'square-mile park, part of the Bahamas National Trust, appeals to divers who appreciate the vast underworld of limestone, reefs. drop-offs, blue holes of freshwater springs, caves and a multi ' of exotic marine life. Staniel Cay is also. home to Thunderball Grvuu, a beautiful marine cave that was chosen as an exotic setting for such movies as 007's Thunderball and Never S a y Never Again, and the mermaid tale. Solash.

ind OUL I I L O &out ~ ~ The Exurnas, pzck up a copy of Fodor'~The Bahamas 12 at a local bookstore or vzszt www.fodors.com. Turn topage 130 zn t h ~ s .,,de of Island Scene to get znformatzon on accommodatzons and resources. You can also call 800-OUT ISLANDS (800-688-4752) or go onlzne a1

lnagua Airport

T 1 ;REAT INAGUA ISLAND

South West

Though the claim is open to dispute, San Salvador is kno.wn in history as the legendary'landfall of Christopher Columbus. The inspiring sight that greeted Christopher Columbus by moonlight was a terrain of gleaming beaches and far-reaching forest. 'The peripatetic traveler and his crews steered the Nifia, Pinta and Santa Maria warily among the coral reefs and anchored, so it is recorded, in Fernandez Bay. Today, you can visit the marker . commemorating the event or dive, snorkel and fish in the surrounding waters. Fernandez Bay is close to what is now the main community of Cockburn Town, mid-island on the western shore. Queen's Highway encircles the island from Cockburn Town, where the weekl) mail boat docks. This small village's narrow streets contain several churches, a commissioner's office, a police station, a courthouse, San Salvador Museum,'a clinic, a drugstore, two grocery stores and a telephone station. "

Columbus first spotted and recorded Riding Rock Point, located about one mile north of Cockburn Town. The area now s&rvesa s the home for the Riding Rock Inn, a popular resort for divers. Just north of the point is the island's other resort, foot of a gorgeous the Club ~ e d - ~ o l u r n b u s 2-mile-long beach.

Scientists and students from all over the world are drawn to San Salvador because of the Bahamian Field Station, a biological and geological research institution in Graham Harbour.

odor's

Tojind out rnore'about San ~alvadorfilapd, pick up a copy of The Bahamas 2002 at a local bookstore or visit www.fodors.com. Turn to page 135 in this issue of Island Scerre to get information on accommodations and resources. You can also call 800-OUT ISLANDS (800-688-4752) or go online at www.hahama-out-islands.comor www.bahamas.com.

~rlu-rlassdiving has V U I I L d IepuLdLlon fo e Islands Of The Bahamas. Few places ii.

Local dive sllops are geared for regL scheduled or personalized dives, dnc

world offer a wider varlety of d i v i n ~ portunities. including wrecks and reef

generous i n . offering correct and precis d~rectionsto many dive sites. In some cases,

(one of the cleanest in the world), blue hole d drop-offs, sea gardens, caves, walls

they will even give you the coordinates of a location. Unless you and your navigational

Shallow shoals and encovnters with dolphin and sharks. With h u n d ~ e d sof islands, Thc

'equipment are extremely sharp, however, you coulcl miss a site by 100 yards or sc which would still give you a lot of seabed to

Bahamas have literally thousands of divc sltes within their crystal-clear waters. Thc ands offer a yearlong diving season, ,ter temperatures ranging from 76".

T 1

"' L .

winter in the Northern Bahamas to 84'1 throughout The Islands in.the summer.

search. Some sites, of course. are obvious; you won't need a local guide to show you

sunken ship that stands 2 5 feet out of thwater and drop-offs aren't hard to spot. Local experts, however, will know the best laces to dive, the drop-offs, the safest pldc

f dive options offered Much of the dix by The Islands Of The Bahamas is a direc & ,,

drop an anc

and even the best time c

day for the div iving operations are plentiful in Nassau

only 5 0 miles off the Florida coastline, Thc Bahamas stretches southeast over 75(

rdradise ,Island. Warm, crystal clear water and drop-offs close to shore make The IslandU

miles. Contained within its boundaries arc more than 100,000 square miles of water The landmass is distributed between 2:

a diver's dream. Mysterious blue holes and

islands or island groups, more than 650 cays and some 2,400 islets and exposed rocks. Divers can expect visibility to

C ' .,.~ .-

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result of the huge area that this nation vers. With its westernmost islands restin!

he*'".I.

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caves, historical wrecks, underwater Hollywood sets and vibrant living reefs, soaring wall I\res and thrilling shark watches, all awai learning and experienced dive1

frqm 8 0 to 1650 feet year-round, with the very best visibility often found imme'diatel; after a winter nor'easter has moved.through During these periods, the sea can becoint flat calm and visibility can exceed 1 5 0 t~ ,200 fec

Tunnel Wall, a network of crevices and tunnels beginning in just 30 feet of water. Southwest Reet, magnltlcent -high-prof ile coral heads in 5-30 feet of water.

nore information on di he Bahamas, call

66-t

) or

in The Islanl

800-S~~-DIVE (

www.bahamasdivini

The Islands Of . ' l h e Bahamas proviac 100,000 square miles of ocean ideaT Iseafaring and island hop'ping. Choose

L.Y..

such watersports as sailing, windsurfing Ijarasailing, waterskiing and snorkeling Scuba diving and big-game fishing rank with the best in the world (see pages 86 anc

90). Both se'a aljd inland water kayaking have grown as a popular and intimate m :xploring nature and seeking thrills.

shpi)hirc. to p1.e acll;a are dottctl with tiny, t>alln-fri~l$rdcay: 'that' l)ec.kol~ thc year). sailor to.stcp ashore for a brief respite. \\'ilk morc .than 700 to 'visit, the best aurl .onl! ' , way to rc.aql~Inan) of tl16 iiles is hy 11

- - I ~ I I iaiII~o;~tl. . r~~otorI)oatsand jvtikis. . . -.:c.urs~orl.i fi)c.~~>t,tI ari~untl sllc~rkc>ling,

. rIi\ ing.

I)arrtoot t)ic~licson sc.111otci)~aclles or o111)oard (lining i~rt. all avnilal~lr. For incuperir~~c*c.tl sailor;. c,hartrr c.olllpanie5

Puritans, pirutcbs and r u r n r u ~ l ~ ~ .te r r sailed these watrrs-which still o f f t ~

take III(. Ilr.Im for iea tyloraiion.

the , spiritthl case of ~nlooth sailing, thc

01life

. , , I ~ I01'I ~ *

. all

on laritl or the chance to raihe c

February

t I 1 t 2

<.,

. .

I ~ I O > I l1,1111tli1r lor l)o:it+ ; I ~ V I \ 111:

l111itc.tl5t:1t(.i arr

froln

l shamrnot t, q;ality. here, it ~ o u l c Ije'a .atio tllc islands f o holnc ~ cx

I*:.XU~II;I :111cl (;I.LIII(I l~iiI1;1111,1. \ i-iti11p l ~ o : ~ t ~ r i a

It'>,oti\\auld I i k r to >t.t >[lit. I,oiiti of' L I I ~ ! k i l l t l ,.;III \ I ( , t : l ~ i ~ ~ . t c - * !'or ~ . t ~ :It l f~b\\11ou.1

, I U L I ~ : I I I ~ ~ It'l:~g I ~ * :it111

or. I

11otiJ! ~ ; U , I I , I I I ~ !our a~.ri\;ll.KO O I I ~(1111t.r . , t11a11tllr (;;111tai11. !rIIo\v

Valentine's Day Sailing Regatta, NassauIParadise Island; 242-394-0445

~ O I I I ~I ~1~ 1\ ~ X I ( Y I .

toast fo a t ~ o ~ i c sunset. al And with suc:I

tllr

Nassau Race Week, NassauIParadise Island; 242-393-5132 or www.nassauraceweek.com

i u i t ~t . ~ ~ s t o ~ n i .

March ~~~~l N~~~~~sailing club, NassauIParadise Island; 242-322-1041 Annual George Town Cruising Regatta, Exuma; 242-336-2430 Annual Bimini sailing Regattz Radio Beach, North Bimini; 242-347-3529

n u ooats entering l n e ralanus UI l n e Uahamas are required to pay a single entry :e of $100. This will cover a vessel with four ~ ~ e r s o roi sr less. The flat levy fee of $100 per vessel will cover the cruising permit, fishing permit, Customs a n d Immigration charges and the $15 pc penon depc-rrture tax for up to four peopl R e g u l a ~hours for Bahamas Customb ar Immigration Offices are 9 a.m. to 5 p.r eekdays.

1 3 1 Ill Y

V I

1 Y

I J

THE BAHAMAS: Januarv With over 5 0 fishing records to their cr

e flats are abundant with large bonefish;

The Islands Of The Bahamas are considered one of the premier destinations in the

en 10-pound fish are not uncommon.

world for sportfishing. This country is a r angler's dream. Light tackle, heavy tackle

Rilled as the "Bonefishing Capital of the ,rid," Andros Island attracts angler; fron

fly-fishing, deep-sea fishing, reef fishing fishing for blde rparhn, bonefishing- yo^

ound the globe. Charter a guide to lead you along the eastern shore flats, inside the

name it. Fishing in The Islands Of The

140-mile-long barrier reef, in pursuit o

lamas starts in the waters of Bimini of Florida roast and ends at thk southern-' 3dgt most island, Inagua, on the nc-"^

le "aristocrat of saltwater game fish." In addition to bonefishing, Andros Island -fers deep-sea fishing (marlin, wahoo, .ingfish and tuna), fly-fishing, reel fishin; md seasonal tarpon fishing.

he Caribbean.

alive with many species of game fish, whicl.

The Bimini Islands, "The Big Game Fishing

is one of the reasons why The Bahamas hos more than 2 0 fishing tournaments everj

Capital of the World," invite you to challenge the locals dnd put your skills to the test in

year. A favorite spot just west of Nassz the Tongue 01the Ocean, so called becausf

one of the many fishing tournaments held there. With thelr prime location in the middle of the Gulf Stream, The Rimini Islands give

it looks like that part of the body wher '-wedfrom tE, - ' " :hay ' stretchfor

' - ^

mil

fishermen a chance to "go for the gold", and a new record-in deep seas filled -'"marlin,

.ting from your hote- ,.x, or a deep-se:

Grand

~ t h game e ~ fisl..

lama Island is also considered

iatic hoping to beat a world record, experienced guides and fishing lodges are

one of the premier destinations in the world sportfishing. If you're ready for a good

plentiful in the isles and are'fully outfitted

fight, then strap yourself in and get ready to hook 'on to a marlin, sailfish, blue- o

to make sure you have the very best fishing experience pos Whether you like deep-sea fishing, ree fishing, bottom f i ~ h i n gor fly-fishing, t h t waters around the Exuma Islands are filled with exdting and challenging game fish. Record numbers, of huge marlin, sailfisl

3 wahoo are caught in Exuma Sound, ere the aqua-blue ocean drops 6,000 feet into the dark, cool feeding grounds o phy-size fish. Closer to Great Exuma land are 6 0 square miles of crystal-clea tlats where you can hunt for world-clas bonefish, snapper, grouper and even lobstei. C E N E Wintc

)ring 2003

yellowfin tuna or bar~acuda-to name a few. !R

Annual Bahamas Wahoc Championship, Third Leg; Valentine Resort & Marina, Harbour Island; 305-234-7386; www. bahamaswahoo.com

Recognized as "the most family-friendly overseas destination for U.S. families 'in the world," travelling to The Islands Of The

local flora and fauha at Ardastra Gardens

Bahamas is an experience.the entire family can enjoy. There's something for every mem-

entertainment and education for the entire

ber of the family, including beach and water games, hiking, horseback riding, fishing,

& Zoo and The Retreat. The Discovery Chamei Camp at +Atlantis also provides family. The camp integrates science and technology, arts and crafts and discoverJi.

boating, snorkeling, kayaking, adventure

On Grand Rahama Island, activities range

parks, museums and miniature golf. And if you would like to sneak off and play a round of golf, go shoppiGg or simply relax at

from kids-only clubs to exciting theme parks. The "Kids' Pun Club" 1s a great

the beach, many larger resorts have day programs for children that are supervised

place for children to enjoy. sports, games and cool activities, all under the supervision of a trained slalf. And if you're looking for a place where the fanlily can spend the day and evening, make sure you visit the

tralned staff. On NassauICable BeachlParadise Island, families wlll find a great variety of fun and educational activities. Visit government

Pirates of The Bahamas Theme Park

offices and explore historic sites such as Rawson and Parliament Squares; the

for beach activities, fun games and dlnner and live music twice a week. Dedicated to younger guests of Our Lucaya Beach & Gulf Resort, Camp Lucaya is an interactwe

Queen's Staircase; Forts Montagu,

learning center that allows children 12 and

and Charlotte; and Balcony Stop at The Pirates of Nassau Interactive Muse*, ihen enter in a

under to participate in crafts, pool activities, dolphin experiences and fleld trlps undkr the supervision of a trained staff.

v'-castle ,,,use.

friendly barter of your own with local vendors at the Straw Market. And if all that exploration has made you hungry, visit Potter's Cay or the Fish Fry at Arawak Cay to sample fresh-from-the-boa; local

,fare.

Learn about the

~~~~~

a*, i f b 3 - ~ 3 ' -~r~

The Out Islands offer children of all ages the ppporthnity to investigate the inner flats of the beaches, hidden pirate 'coves and mysterious underwater amusement parks. Each island offers a unique and colorful history for families to explore. Parents and children can tour the qualnt villages and lighthouses and watch craftsmen at work. After a day of exploration, families can relax on one of the many secluded beaches to build sandcastles, hunt for seashells or just .play in the warm ocean surf.

advise approach cont instructions. The,Ont required to announce airc location and intentions. Nassau al?d Grand B?harna a t e

lighted, runways that allow flyin

All other airports require you t depart. between sunrise and sun

Getting married in l n e lslanas Of l n t Bahamas is very popular. In.fact, there art so many visitors who say, "I do," that tht Ministry of Tourism has established 2 separate Wedding Division, to help couple: make the dream of ieymoon a realit

grounds weaaing at the lacy Gazebo on -f the Ocean Club on Paradi,, ,sland or .,-lect from some of the most romantic i~utdoo settings that The Islands Of The Bahamac have to offer u rand Bahama Island, or :Out Islands

ation we

With a choice of more than

The ~ r o g i c a l _dding Visit the L - .nica islands

cays, reefs, beaches, parks and hotanica *dens, plus hundreds of activities, couplet

Gardens or any of the many beautiful garden bttings in The Islands Of The Bahamas to rid your ideal Tiopical Wedding site.

can create the weddiAg and honeymoon o 1e Romantic Wedding For a trul! ir~hearts'desire. Whether the choice is 2 Romantic Wedding, imagine saying your large wedding with family and friends or 2 vows beneath tall palms swaying in the more intimate ceremony, The Islands d balmy island breeze with soft, white sanc The Bahamas are the errk kt p l d to ~ c~ r ~ ~ t f underfoot as the sun sets over an ocear w ~ d d i n ememories. horizon. The perfect way to ' ' te one o life's most precious mom en^^. ..redding: on a beach at sunset, by thc -turesque cblumns of the 14"'-century mch Cloisters or on a party boat wherc u'll dance the night away. Planning 2 wedding in The Islands Of The Bahamas ii easy; marriage licer~sescar1 Le issued withir hours after meeting a minimum 24-hourr * ,idency requirement. (Please note: Registra beneral's office is closed on weekends.) n all-inclusive wedding in The Islands 0 I he Bahamas is a one-stop shopping optior for couples who would ,rather spend "--time having fun in the sun than dealing the details. Many of the hotels and resor well as local bridal consultants offer pack ages that include flowers, cake, champagne d, music and photographer, as well as thf official to perform the ceremony. In The Islands Of'The ah am as; you arc only limited by your own imagination. Lf yo1 wan1 something other than a traditiona lrch wedding, here are some ideas tc -' . you stal

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sailing off into the sunset on crystal-clear serene waters while exchanging vows. Therl. dancing the night away under the <tars wit% friends and relatives. r 11e Unique

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The Bahamas host a Unique wedding you'll never forget. Take your vows undersea, on a romantic surrey ride, Junkanoo style, or 1 swimming with the dolphins-whatever your imagination desires. A wedding and honeymoon in The Islands The Bahamas are the perfect beginning to a nep life together. The warm and welcoming peoplc of The Bahamas want nothing more than to nake your wedding-day the ideal expiri ence. For more information and assistance call 1-888-NUPTIALS (1-888-6g7-8425) fax 242-302-2098 or *-mail p n nffirer a nance@bahamas.cor

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