CERRO ACONCAGUA 22,841FT/ 6963 METERS A EXPEDITION TO THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN IN THE AMERICAS"
ACONCAGUA THE ROOF OF THE AMERICAS
info@benegasbrothers.com Skype: Benegas Brothers Expeditions Phone: 801- 512-0592 www.benegasbrothers.com www.benegasbrothers.com
About the Benegas Brothers Benegas Brothers Expeditions was founded in 1992 by identical twin brothers Damian and Guillermo (Willie) Benegas. Their father, Rafael Benegas, sparked their love of climbing while the boys were growing up in Patagonia. During the long, cold Argentine winters, Rafael would entertain the energetic young twins with his climbing photos and tales of Patagonian adventures. These experiences created an insatiable urge for the brothers to begin their own adventures and climbing expeditions. Before long, Aconcagua and the steep granite towers and glacier coated peaks of Northern Patagonia became the twin’s training ground where they would nurture their climbing skills, and establish themselves as world-class alpinists. Now, twenty seasons and more than 60 summits of Aconcagua later, the Benegas brothers have guided climbers and adventurers from countries around the world. Their expeditions reflect the spirit of mountain exploration in an exciting, yet safe and intimate, atmosphere. They take pride in providing each of their guide groups with the best opportunity to summit and to discover a mountain of possibilities on peaks worldwide.
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WHY GO WITH BENEGAS BROTHERS EXPEDITIONS? Experience More than 20 years and 60 summits experience on the mountain. Veteran guides with extensive high altitude experience around the world from Aconcagua to Mount Everest.
Support Our own special high altitude camps to keep away of the crowds! Low client-to-guide ratio. Proven acclimatization program. Porter support for equipment and supplies. Comfort New or current season North Face Tents- (double occupancy). State of the art High Camp gear and equipment. The best food in the mountain in the High Camps! We mean the Best Food! Delux Base Camp featuring Grajales BC services, cook tent, electricity, movie night, and showers. Unlimited use of satellite phone for our clients (plenty of battery time for you to call any time - " per minute fee will apply).
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S A F E T Y
All our guides not only their are fully certificate by the International Mountain Guide Association, mastering the Skills essential to the success of an expedition, Organization, Management , Technical Ability, They have been climbing in Aconcagua for mre than 20 years! Medical Training and Protocols All our guides hold current medical certifications and are well versed in the most current protocols of altitude medicine MEDICAL DOCTOR on call 24 hrs a day by radio We have several medical doctors on call during the entire expedition to answer medical questions. Each of Our Camp is fully equipped with emergency Oxygen, Rescue Equipment. First Aid and Health Checks An important part of climbing Aconcagua is closely watching everyone for signs of any health problems. Dehydration, coughs, or serious fatigue all can be managed if caught early and treated correctly. We carry wellequipped medical kits complete with pulse oximeters. This latter tool is helpful in distinguishing between certain ailments and an altitude related issue, and is only one part of larger comprehensive program of checking everyone’s health at each step on the hill. As we previously mentioned, communication with the guides is important so that we can help mitigate an arising health problem before it becomes a more serious issue. Acclimatization
Excellent physical conditioning significantly increases your ability to acclimatize. The key to climbing high is proper acclimatization. Our program follows a calculated ascent profile which allows time for your body to adjust to the altitude. In addition to a proper rate of ascent, your performance is often related to how well you have taken care of yourself throughout the hours, days and weeks prior to summit day. Proper hydration, nutrition, and warmth must be maintained on a daily basis throughout the expedition Stewardship Benegas Brothers cares deeply about the culture and environment of Aconcagua. We make a point of leaving the mountain in better condition than we found it. Not only do we carry out all of our group’s trash and waste, we spend the time and effort to clean up after other less thoughtful groups. Although our clean up efforts may take more time, effort, and indeed, cost more, we feel we would be disrespecting the mountain, the locals, and our clients if we did anything less.Benegas Brothers expeditions reflect the spirit of mountain exploration in an exciting, yet safe and intimate atmosphere. We take pride in providing our groups with the best opportunity to summit and to discover a mountain of possibilities on Aconcagua. Food Benegas Brothers is renowned for providing gourmet mountain cuisine. During the tented portion of the trek we will provide a selection of meals including pastas, rice, soups, and fresh foods.
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Weather Aconcagua, like all big mountains, generates and attracts its own weather, making it impossible to predict. Be prepared for a wide range of temperatures, from freezing nights, to snowy and windy conditions, to bright sunshine intensified by the high altitude. This wide fluctuation in temperatures makes it important to bring everything on the equipment list. Climbers early in the season, on our December and January climbs, should expect to find large snowfields high on the mountain, while climbers later in the season, on our February trips, will encounter less snow and more dry, rocky trail - there may, of course, be some variation to this from one season to the next. Aconcagua is located at 32 degrees 39 minutes south, the same distance from the equator as San Diego, California. The best time to climb Aconcagua is from December to early March, during the Southern Hemisphere's summer. Days of clear sunny skies are the norm on Aconcagua, but the mountain does receive storms during the summer months due to the moist, humid winds blowing west from the Pacific Ocean. As this air rises over the slopes of the Andes, its speed increases and it condenses to form lenticular clouds on the summit, also known as viento blanco, or white wind. In general, winds from the south are usually a sign of good weather and enable us to go for a successful summit bid.
Weather Forecasting We use several sources for weather forecasting. Multiple weather models, combined with the guide’s experience in interpreting mountain weather, provide us with lots of information with which to better make challenging decisions.
Getting There Travel to Mendoza, Argentina (MDZ) typically takes 18 - 27 hours from the U.S. depending on your departure city, available connections, and flight times. Flights generally arrive in the afternoon on Day 2 of the itinerary. Departing flights may be booked for any time on the final day of the program. Entry Information A valid passport is required when traveling to Argentina. Your passport must be valid for 6 months beyond the expected return date. U.S. passport holders may stay up to 90 days without visa. We suggest making a copy of the first two pages of your passport and keeping them in a separate bag as a backup. A copy should also be left with your emergency contact. Please confirm any current travel advisories/warnings as well as passport and visa requirements with the U.S. Department of State
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Important Information about Argentina’s Reciprocity Fee If you are a U.S., Canadian or Australian citizen traveling to Argentina, you are required to pay a “Reciprocity Fee” ($140). This fee is required by the Government of Argentina and is not included in your airfare. This imposed fee must be prepaid online (https://virtual.provinciapagos.com.ar/ArgentineTaxes/) prior to travel. Please check the Embassy of Argentina’s web site if you have any questions Travel and flight information We suggest that you obtain an evening flight to Santiago, Chile, which arrives early in the morning and in time for a connecting flight to Mendoza, Argentina later that day (day two of the itinerary If arriving to Mendoza via Buenos Aires Once you receive your bags from Baggage Claim, you will proceed to Customs. There will be a random selection of bags for inspection. Be sure to keep all your bags together. Please be aware that depending on your airline carrier you may be required to transfer to Aeroparque Jorge Newbery (AEP) for domestic flights from Buenos Aires to Mendoza and make your travel arrangements accordingly. Transfer time vary between 30 min to 1 hr + depending on time of day and traffic conditions. Several transfer options exist, taxis are the quickest method while some buses require stops in the city center before reaching the airport. Transfer to Aeroparque by Manuel Tienda de leon. www.tiendaleon.com.ar Upon reaching Mendoza proceed to the Baggage Claim to retrieve your bags. Travel Insurance & Rescue Insurance We require the purchase of insurance plans to protect you from the unexpected. Please consult with your insurance company with any specific questions, regarding coverage, and policy details, and if you have any questions contact our offices. Ingles Insurance: Emergency evacuation insurance covering treatment abroad www.inglegroups.com/bbe (does not cover baggage / gear loss) General Travel and Trip Coverage: Travel Guard (US Toll Free 800-826-4919) provides coverage to protect against trip cancellation, interruption, or delay due to unforeseeable sickness, injury or death of you or a family member. Coverage also includes trip cost default protection; stolen or damaged luggage; and trip or baggage delay protection. Coverage should include lost or damaged baggage, BBE is not responsible for the personal items or baggage of its members at any time.
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People climb Aconcagua for many reasons. Some just love being in a wild places, while others want to challenge themselves physically and WHAT mentally, and for some it is to fulfill a lifelong dream. Climbing AconcaIS YOUR gua is serious business and a summit attempt requires a very deep sense of commitment and dedication. So please ask yourself, why are GOAL? you goals on Aconcagua? Try to take an introspective look at the risk vs. reward as you make your decision. Any ascent this altitude involves a certain amount of risk. Our use of conservative, experience-based decision making will help minimize those risks and increase your chances for success, but ultimately, big mountains can be unforgiving require serious commitment and reflection.
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Team members are ultimately responsible for their own well being. This includes making all the necessary preparations to ensure good health and excellent physical conditioning both before and during an expedition. Our guides will oversee and discuss important issues along the way, but you should arrive in Mendoza very well prepared.
Qualifications for climbing the regular route: The Normal Route along the Northwest Ridge is a nonRESPONSI- technical, yet physically demanding climb that incorporates all the logistics of climbing a big mountain. The ascent does BILITIES require basic mountaineering skills. Expedition members should have strong backpacking skills. This is a challenging route for novice and experienced climbers alike and an ideal choice for those with some high altitude, general mountaineering experience such as Kilimanjaro, Mount Elbrus, and the Mexican or Ecuador Volcanoes.
YOUR
Regardless of route choice, it is the high altitude and potentially extreme weather that challenge the climber ascending Aconcagua's slopes. The reward for your dedication and hard work is standing on the summit of the highest point in the Western Hemisphere.
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GENERAL INFORMATION We will meet in the beautiful city of Mendoza Argentina for this expedition. Mendoza is wine country, and it is well worth planning on spending an extra couple of days touring wineries, whitewater rafting, or enjoying the bustling sidewalk cafés and parks. We will be staying in the Executive Hotel Park Suites which is in convenient walking distance to downtown Mendoza and the popular “Sarmiento” district. The hotel is very comfortable and you will find prices in Mendoza fairly reasonable. Your Benegas Brothers guide will be at the airport to meet you The Exchange rate is about 5 Argentine pesos/ dollar. We find credit cards are generally the easiest way to pay for hotel rooms, restaurants, etc. as you will get the best exchange rate. You can also get Argentine pesos with your ATM card at many locations around Mendoza. Please have a way to get pesos, such as an ATM card, or bring a supply of cash. Remember that you are responsible for some of your meals while in Mendoza. If you would like to stay at a different hotel while in Mendoza please let us know so that we can help make recommendations and we’ll know where to find you. We will provide accommodations for you at the Executive Hotel for one night before and one after the climb. San Lorenzo 660 Mendoza, Argentina T: +54 -261-5245000 www.executive.parksuites.net/
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CERRO
TRIP OVERVIEW Welcome to Benegas Brothers Aconcagua Expeditions Aconcagua is the highest mountain in the Western Hemisphere and our most popular mountaineering destination. Aconcagua serves as a great introduction to high altitude expedition climbing. After 20 years of climbing Aconcagua with family and climbers from all over the world, it has become our home away from home at Benegas Brothers Expeditions. Each time that we set out to scale Aconcagua, base camp at Plaza de Mulas (14,000 ft.) is always a welcome site after the scenic trek from the park entrance. As some of the most experienced guides on the mountain, we oer a unique opportunity for anyone interested in this beautiful climb. Although the Normal Route is the most popular and crowded side of the mountain, we have come up with variations on the route and camp locations. All of our camps are situated away of the crowds and even more protected from the winds- these elements provide us a more private and unique experience.
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The two most popular routes up the mountain
are the “Normal: route from the Horcones Valley to the west and the False Polish route see the vast majority of climbers on the mountain, We believe that the experience you take away from a expedition is paramount, As such we have created variations on the route and camp locations. All of our camps are situated away of the crowds and even more protected from the winds- these elements provide us a more private and unique experience. our own especial route and high altitude camp sites We strongly believe that is the process that counts and that will bring, a more rewarding summit! We are proud to oer a fully supported, extremely well organized expedition that provide climbers with the highest probability for success
The Normal Route, Or The Northwest Ridge The Normal Route is our most popular. Although the route is a mountain walk rather than a technical climb, the altitude and the possibility of sudden weather changes make this a very physical and challenging expedition. While most of the mountain is on loose talus fields, we often need an ice axe and crampons for summit day.
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TRIP SCHEDULE THE NORMAL ROUTE - ACONCAGUA BENEGAS VARIATION
Day 1: Arrive at Mendoza (2,428 ft.).
A Benegas Brothers Expeditions guide will meet you at the airport, and escort you to the Hotel El Portal Suites. Our group meets in the small, lively city of Mendoza, Argentina, capital of the world renowned Argentine wine country. Here, the guides will check everyone’s gear and you can pick up any last minute necessities. We’ll all go out for a sumptuous Welcome Dinner, so bring your appetite and be prepared to eat some of the best steaks you’ve ever tasted!
Day 2:
Drive to Penitentes.
After picking up our climbing permits the next morning (permit cost was $240-720 in 2010) and driving to the ski resort of Penitentes. This journey takes approximately three hours. After settle in our hotel, we will organize our gear for the “arrieros” (mule drivers) to carry to Base Camp.
Day 3: Drive to Las Cuevas, 3000m.
After a short drive we reach the village of Las Cuevas in the border within Argentina and Chile, after settle our self in a small and simple refuge, we will go for a couple hrs hike to seriously start our Acclimatization proses.
Day 4: We will trek up to El Cristo Redentor Hut.
At 3995 meters a long and step hike that will give us amassing views of the andes including the Colossus Aconcagua. Spending our first high altitude night at this camp
Day 5:
Return to Las Cuevas.
In the morning depending on how we sleep we my go higher or simply return to our Hotel where a great hot shower we will be waiting for us.
Day 6: Trek to Confluencia.
After loading equipment onto mules, a pick up truck will drive us as far along the Horcones jeep road. We then trek up the Horcones valley to the green campsite at Confluencia (3200m). This is a short day, but the camp provides plenty of necessary water for camping.
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Day 7: Trek to Base Camp.
From Confluencia we will follow the broad, stone covered valley bottom to a steep trail that leads to a terminal moraine. The base campsite at Plaza de Mulas (4200m) is situated on top of the lateral moraine just off the Horcones glacier beneath the vast west face of Aconcagua. Base camp is very comfortable with a huge mess tent and a full staff of cooks and porters. We provide world-class mountain cuisine that includes vegetarian meals, free-range Argentinean steak, delicious soups, and fresh fruits and vegetables.
Day 8: Acclimatization at Base Camp.
Most people feel the altitude at this point. Here we will rest, acclimate, enjoy the stunning views, and base camp culture.
Day 9: Transport supplies to Plaza Don Fernando (4,800 m-15,748’) Load carry from base camp to Plaza Don Fernando Established on 2005-- Throughout our climb of Aconcagua we follow the philosophy of climb high-sleep low as we ascend the mountain. Today we From our base camp at Plaza de Mulas we follow the trail as it gradually switchbacks up steep scree slopes to the rock spires that mark Plaza Don Fernando We cache food and gear here and then return to base camp. This usually takes 4 to 6 hours round trip.
Day 10: Rest Day Acclimatize at base camp. Before returning to Plaza Don Fernando, we will take another rest day at base camp. This dramatically improves acclimatization and a successful summit.
Day 11: Move to Plaza Don Fernando. Return to Plaza Don Fernando to sleep. This time we must carry all our personal equipment to the camp and will not return to Base Camp unless forced to by bad weather.
Day 12:
Transport of supplies to Plaza Benegas (5,400 m- 17,700’).
Load carry to Plaza Don Benegas and return to Plaza Fernando to sleep. We will cache almost all our food and fuel stocks to Plaza Don Benegas.
Day 13: Move to Plaza Don Benegas (5,400 m- 17,700’). After breaking camp, we move
our gear and ourselves to Plaza Don Benegas. 3 - 5 hours. We will make our camp and look forward to a rest day.
Day 14: Rest day at Plaza Don Benegas. Another rest day will provide you with more rest, and time to acclimate. At this point we will focus on sleeping, hydration, and eating well. On a clear day, the views from Plaza Don Benegas are unforgettable. Weather permitting we will enjoy pleasant camp tours. However, winds and cold weather may confine us to our tents for most of the day. It is useful to pack reading material, cards, or a iPod.
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Day 15: Move to Camp Plaza Caluba
(5,950m-19,520’).
Today we move approximately 3-5 hours to camp Grand Plaza camp. We will carry three days of food, fuel, personal equipment, and tents.
Day 16:
Summit day!
The summit day is a long, yet satisfying. Normally beginning with a wake up at first light, departing between 6 and 8 am depending on the wind, and ending late afternoon. The summit day involves nothing more than mountain walking, albeit at high altitude. In good conditions the Base of the Central Canaleta is reached in 4 to 5 hours. The Central Canaleta is about 300 meters in vertical elevation gain. At this point we calculate approximately one hour per 100 meters of elevation gain. The Canaleta gully sometimes requires a little scrambling to the final summit ridge, which provides outstanding views down the South Face. A metal cross adorns the summit and is accompanied by a summit register. The views from the summit on a clear day are superb, and can stretch as far as the Pacific Ocean.
Day 17: Descend to Base Camp. Descend from Plaza Caluba to base camp. We will probably have some equipment and food to pick up at Eagle Nest camp, which will be shared between team members.
Day 18-19:
Standby Days.
Additional summit days are included to accommodate itinerary and weather changes.
Day 20: Trek out from Base Camp. We walk out from Base Camp to the trailhead at Horcones. The walk, which took three days to accomplish on the way in, will take about 6-7 hours. At the trailhead we will travel by private bus back to Mendoza, arriving in time for a late dinner. but you will be rewarded with a hot shower, drinks, delicious meal at the hotel. Celebrate! Note: This itinerary is intended to be a guideline only, weather days and rest days are always a possibility while on a climbing expedition.
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MOUNTAINEERING FITNESS AND TRAINING Our training goal is to get physically and mentally prepared to fully engage in the sport of mountaineering. Your climbing goal will be to perform strong and steady throughout your adventure. We offer numerous adventures worldwide from Aconcagua to Everest. While different objectives require varying levels of commitment, sound fitness gained through a well-guided program is the single best way to ensure a safe and successful adventure regardless of the destination you have chosen. Fitness for mountaineering requires a high overall level of physical conditioning. Both cardiovascular and motor fitness are needed to climb at varying levels of intensity and to navigate challenging terrain, often while carrying a loaded pack and at high altitudes. THE FITNESS AND ACCLIMATIZATION CONNECTION The greater your level of fitness, the more efficiently you can acclimate (i.e., adjust) to altitude. Simply stated, fit climbers spend less energy on certain tasks (i.e., a day of hard climbing), leaving their bodies ready for the task of acclimatization. Training for mountaineering focuses on building an endurance athlete by developing cardiovascular fitness (fitness of the heart) and motor fitness (particularly endurance, strength, and balance), using specific goals and following a defined timeline. THE ENDURANCE ATHLETE A solid mountain athlete is an endurance athlete. More than any other specific fitness skill, endurance is the fitness area of greatest importance to a mountaineer. An endurance athlete is able to perform at a variety of intensity levels all day long and not a specialist in "long and slow" or "short and explosive" activities. Endurance athletes have both excellent cardiovascular and motor fitness. CARDIOVASCULAR FITNESS Cardiovascular Fitness is measured through your aerobic capacity: your body's ability to take in and use oxygen. At sea level, the restrictive factor in delivering oxygen to the muscles is the heart's ability to pump blood, not the capability of the lungs to take in oxygen. It is at altitude, where oxygen is effectively less available, that the lung’s capabilities come into question. Cardiovascular training should be directed at conditioning your heart and lungs. MOTOR FITNESS Motor Fitness refers to endurance (the ability to withstand prolonged exertion), strength (the ability to exert force), power (the ability to exert force rapidly), balance (the ability to maintain stability), agility (the ability to perform actions quickly and smoothly), and flexibility (the ability to bend without breaking). These are all important factors in your ability to climb smoothly and efficiently on mountainous terrain.
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TRAINING GOALS Training goals are critically important given the time constraints placed on a mountaineer by weather, route conditions, objective hazards, and the effects of altitude. Proper physical conditioning allows you to perform better by climbing longer, stronger and faster, be more comfortable on steeper and awkward terrain, carry heavier loads, recover more quickly at rest, and enjoy the entire adventure more completely. Set your goals at the beginning of your training program. Consider the length, difficulty, and particular challenges of your climb. Evaluate your current fitness baseline, strengths, and weaknesses and take into account how long you have until the beginning of your climb. Then, break down the needed training in order to bring your fitness to the level needed for the climb. FITNESS NEEDED ON THE CLIMB • • • •
How many days does the climb require? What type of terrain and climbing will you encounter? To what altitudes will you climb? How heavy a pack will you carry?
CURRENT FITNESS • •
What are your current cardiovascular strengths and weaknesses? What are your current motor fitness strengths and weaknesses?
TIME FRAME •
How long do you have to improve your fitness before the start of the climb?
TIMELINE FOR TRAINING Once you have examined the physical requirements of the climb, your current fitness levels, and your training goals, plug your training program into a timeline.Training timelines will vary significantly between climbers, depending on the climb for which they are preparing, the amount of time before the climb, and their initial level of fitness. Very generally, 3 - 9 months are needed to implement an effective program. The more your training can simulate real climbing, especially as the climb approaches, the more you will benefit. If available, we recommended working with a fitness trainer to lay out the specifics of your training program. Make sure the trainer understands all aspects of training for the climb, from the needed endurance and balance, to the focus on uphill and downhill training. Begin your training program well in advance of your climb, and increase the intensity and duration of your exercising as you gain fitness. Your first weeks in this new fitness program will most likely be focused on getting into a routine. Begin both the cardiovascular and motor fitness training from the outset, but start carefully to avoid overuse or over-enthusiasm injuries. Use a variety of exercises, activities, locations, etc. to keep physically challenged and mentally engaged. Aerobic, balance, stretching, and
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abdominal exercises can be done every day. Aim for interval and strength training once every 3 days or so. Over time incorporate endurance training into all activities. CARDIOVASCULAR FITNESS Cardiovascular training uses both aerobic exercises and interval training and is the foundation for your ability to climb for long periods of time. Aerobic Training Use aerobic training to develop your cardiovascular fitness. A variety of aerobic exercises work well for training, including climbing and descending hills, stairs or stadium bleachers, skiing, running and cycling. Don’t forget to develop your aerobic ability for the descent. Prepare for a big storm moving in at the end of the day and develop the ability to get down quickly. Interval Training Use interval training to advance your cardiovascular fitness. Interval training is an important component in improving your cardiovascular base and preparing to climb comfortably at a variety of paces. The technique of interval training calls for including surges in activity while maintaining an elevated heart rate. This is a very strenuous manner of training. We have had success with interval training when we have a minimum of three months of training time. MOTOR FITNESS Motor fitness training develops the endurance, strength, power, balance, agility and flexibility to climb efficiently on steep and challenging terrain. Use endurance training, strength and power training, balance and agility exercises, and stretching to develop motor fitness. Endurance Training Endurance is a motor skill like strength and balance and can be developed with training. Endurance training permeates through all parts of a mountaineer’s training program. The goal of endurance training is to build a durable body by continually increasing the effort, duration, and intensity of training. More than any other specific fitness skill (strength, power, agility, etc.), endurance is the fitness area of greatest importance to the mountaineer.
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Strength and Power Training It is important that in addition to a sound lower body, you develop a sound upper body as well. A sound torso (both back and stomach) is especially important for mountaineering where heavy pack weights add a new dimension to physical activity. These training principles are essentially the same for our upper and lower bodies. Strength and power training can involve body weight exercises as well as routines using weights. Balance and Agility Training Balance and agility exercises reward you with increased body awareness and can aid in your ability to negotiate tricky terrain under a heavy pack. Balance and agility are motor skills like strength and endurance, and can be improved over time. Stretching Exercises Include quality stretching into your program. Focus on slow, static stretching. Avoid bouncing, ballistic stretching. Stretching facilitates the reaching, twisting, and bending which often accompany climbing, and offers relief for a tight and tired body following a difficult day of mountaineering.
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ACONCAGUA EXPEDITION EQUIPMENT LIST Having the right equipment on your expedition will make almost as much difference to your safety, comfort, and enjoyment as any physical training you do. It is essential that you take the time to acquire the correct gear; don’t wait for the last minute to find out your local shop doesn’t have your size. This equipment is expensive, but you can often find great sales online and at your local gear store. The purpose of this gear list is to help guide your purchases. Often salespeople in your local shop do not have first hand knowledge of high- altitude climbing, so be sure to balance their advice with what you read here. And do not hesitate to call us for more information on any of these items. We have strived to create a list heavy on detail, but there are always further questions! During your expedition in Argentina you will encounter a very wide range of temperatures and weather conditions. At one end of this range is the pleasantly warm and beautiful town of Mendoza, while at the other end of the spectrum is found the cold and often windy weather on the summit of the Western Hemisphere's highest peak. The equipment you bring must function well in a wide variety of conditions. Your clothing should be warm, lightweight, dry quickly, and allow good freedom of movement. The layering principle, based on several thin layers of insulation (rather than one thick one), covered with an outer weatherproof shell, meets these needs well. On the Aconcagua expedition the nighttime temperatures at high camp typically range from -5F to 5F. Daytime highs on summit day usually are between 5F and 15F, normally ac- companied by a strong wind. During our three day approach hike to base camp, days are usually very warm with nights becoming increasingly chilly as we gain elevation. The sun can be very intense both on the approach and on the upper parts of the mountain. On this expedition mules carry the bulk of our equipment up to base camp at about 13,500 feet. Above this height we will make double carries, allowing time for team members to acclimate to the higher elevations. Please take time to choose your clothing and equipment carefully; it may make the difference between a comfortable and successful trip and one, which could have been more enjoyable. If you have any questions don't hesitate to call Willie or Damian. Finally, a note on our recommendations: these are not the only good brands out there. They are products, which our guides have used extensively and been happy with. For the safest shopping experience, chose these specific items and you can be confident you have the right tool for the job.
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GUIDE CHOICE
PACKS & BAGS
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2 DUFFEL BAG(S): 120+ liter bag(s) made of tough material with The North Face Base Camp Duffel Bag XXL. rugged zippers
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Smaller Duffel w/ travel lock: To store excess gear in hotel Expedition Backpack. Internal frame pack expandable to 65 to 75 liters Keep it simple and light; avoid unnecessary zippers, etc, which add weight. Trekking or Day Pack. (Optional but recommended). Small pack approx. 25 to 35 liters for trek in with water bag included. Camel- Bag, type hydration bag. Sleeping bag: Rated to at least -20 F. If you sleep cold, consider a -40 F bag. Goose down preferred over synthetic for bulk & weight. If well cared for a down bag will last much longer than a synthetic bag. Your bag needs to be long enough that your feet are not pressing out the foot box, which will make you colder. It should be roomy enough for comfortable sleeping but snug enough for efficient heat retention Compression Stuff Sacks. Work very well for reducing volume of sleeping bags and bulky down clothing Self-Inflating pad: One 3/4 or full length pad. If you are over 6’ a long is recommended. Make sure to include a valve stem and patch repair kit.
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The North Face Base Camp Duffle Bag large Men’s: The North Face Primero 70 Pack Women: the North Face Women’s Crestone 60 Pack The North Face Angstrom 30 pack
The North Face Solar Flare Sleeping Bag: -20 Degree Down
Sea to Summit bags Therm-A-Rest Prolite Plus
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Closed-Cell foam pad: One full-length closed cell is rec- Cascade Designs Ridge ommended TECHNICAL GEAR GUIDE CHOICE
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Ice Axe w/Leash. General mountaineering tool. Sizing is im- Black Diamond Raven Pro Ice Ax portant: under 5’7” use a 60cm tool; 5’7”- 6’1” use a 65cm tool; over 6’1” use a 70cm tool. (Too short is preferable to too long) Make sure that you have a leash that is designed for use on a glacier axe. Please no technical leashes designed for technical ice climbing-they are too short, heavy and not versatile Helmet: A lightweight climbing helmet Petzl Elios Helmet Black Diamond Half Dome Helmet Crampons: The 10 to 12 point adjustable crampons designed Black Diamond Contact Strap for general mountaineering are ideal. Rigid frame crampons designed for technical ice climbing are not recommended. Carry any repair kit/ replacement parts and adjusting tools which are specific to your crampons. Adjustable 3 section Ski/Trekking Poles: Shock absorbers are not recommended.
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HEAD
GUIDE CHOICE
Warm hat: Wool or synthetic. It should be warm and thin enough to fit underneath a climbing helmet. Balaclava
The north Face Bennie Mountain Hardware Power Stretch Balaclava
Buff or Bandana: A bandana or buff provides good protection Original UV Buff from sun and dust.
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Glacier glasses (w/ side covers or wrap around): 100% UV, Julbo Dolgan Julbo Explorer IR, high quality optical lenses designed for mountain use, must have side covers, leashes, and a nose guard is particularly helpful . No more than 8% light transmission. If you wear contact lenses we recommend packing a spare pair of glasses—it is a good idea to have these with “photo-gray” or equivalent lightsensitive material so they can double as emergency sunglasses. If you wear glasses we recommend prescription glacier glasses (gray or amber). Regular sunglasses are not dark enough and do not provide any side protection from the sun.
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Goggles: Amber or rose-tinted goggles for adverse weather. Addition- Smith Scope Pro Julbo Revolution ally, contact lens wearers may find a clear-lenses goggle very useful on windy nights.
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Headlamp: (spare bulbs & batteries). No Halogen bulbs.
Petzl Myo XP Mammut Lucido TX1
HANDS
GUIDE CHOICE
Light Weight Glove: One pair of fleece gloves
Black Diamond Storm Weight Glove Black Diamond Guide Glove
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Medium Weight Glove: Wind/water resistant insulated ski gloves. Heavy Weight Insulated Mitten: Wind/water resistant, insuThe North Face Himalayan Expedition Mitt. lated gloves or mittens for protection against wind, snow and cold. These also serve as emergency back-ups if you drop or lose a glove. UPPER BODY GUIDE CHOICE 2 Light to Medium Weight Base Layer: Long- sleeve wool or synthetic top will be used as your base layer. Zip- neck styles will allow for better temperature regulation Light Insulated Layer: A fleece or other insulation layer Soft Shell Layer: A windproof, water-resistant and highly breathable layer.
Men’s: The North Face Light Zip Neck Top -- Woman's: The North Face Light Zip-Neck Long Underwear Top Men’s: The North Face Tka 100 Texture full Zip--Woman’s: The North Face Shiso Jacket Men’s: The North Face Pitaya Jacket Woman’s: The North Face Pitaya Jacket
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Hard shell Jacket: A jacket made of rain/wind- proof material with an attached hood
Men’s: The North Face Mountain Light Jacket Woman’s: The North Face Mountain Light Jacket Expedition Down Parka: Expedition Weight, must be fully Men’s: The North Face Tahoe Down Hooded Jacket -- The North Face Himalayan Parka baffled, have insulated hood, and go below the waist. Woman’s: Hardware Women's Sub Zero Parka
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Non-Cotton Hiking Shirt: Lightweight, synthetic shirt with either long or short sleeves. The long sleeve is preferred for sun protection LOWER BODY
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2- 3 Pair Underwear: Non-cotton briefs or boxers.
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Men’s: The North Face Boulder Gorge Shirt – Long-Sleeve -Woman’s: The North Face Boulder Utility Woven Shirt - Long-Sleeve GUIDE CHOICE
Light to Medium Weight Base- Layer: Light to medium weight wool or synthetic bottoms
The North Face Stretch Softwood Bottom Woman’s: The North Face Stretch Softwood Bottom Climbing Pant: Synthetic climbing pants offer a wide range of Men’s: Outdoor Research Exos Soft-shell versatility. You can wear them alone on hot days, or in combina- Pant Woman’s: Mountain Hardware Teralyn Pant tion with the base layer on cold days Hard Shell Pant: A pant made of breathable rain and windMen's: The North Face Mountain Pant Women’s: The North Face Varius Guide Pant proof material will be needed. Full-length side zippers are required for facilitating quick clothing adjustments over boots and crampons in cold, inclement weather. Mountain Hardware Compressor PL Pant Down Pants (Optional): Potentially helpful for those Men's climbers without high altitude liners in their boots Light Weight Trekking Pant: A lightweight, synthetic pair of Men’s: The North Face Paramount Peak Convertible Pant - Woman’s: The North Face pants is a good option for the approach trek when hiking at lower altitudes and in warm conditions. These pants have no in- Horizon Valley Convertible Hiking Pant sulation, are typically made of thin nylon, and commonly feature zippers to convert between pants and shorts. FEET
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GUIDE CHOICE
Mountaineering Boots: Hybrid boots are the preferred choice on La Sportiva Spantik La Sportiva Baruntse Aconcagua. They provide the best insulation as well as a more rigid sole for kicking steps and holding crampons. Light hiking boots or trekking shoes: For day hikes and Men’s: La Sportiva Onix GTX-XCR Hiking Boot - Women’s: La Sportiva Fc Eco trek to Base Camp. The trail to Base Camp is rocky and rough. Light weight, high comfort, plenty of room in the toe bed, and good 2.0 GTX Hiking Shoe support should be stressed here. Light Weight Hiking Shoes: Great for travel, day hikes, and Men: La Sportiva Exum Ridge Women: La Sportiva Exum Ridge camp.
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Sandals: These are used during river crossings and should hold securely to the foot. Wool or Synthetic Socks: 3 pair heavyweight wool or syn- The North Face thetic socks (wool is warmer) to be worn over the liner socks. When layering socks, check fit over feet and inside boots. Remember to keep one fresh, dry pair of socks available at all times. It is very important to buy new socks regularly as they lose their cushioning over time. Socks with padded shins are especially nice with boots. Liner Socks: 3 pair of smooth thin wool, nylon or Capilene to be worn next to the skin. This reduces the incidence of blisters and hot- spots and makes the outer sock last longer before needing to be changed. They should fit well with your heavyweight socks. Gaiters: A knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your Outdoor Research Expedition Crocodiles mountaineering boots. This will protect you from catching your crampons on loose clothing MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS GUIDE CHOICE KINeSYS EarthKind 30 SPF Sunscreen. SPF 40 or better, 2 small tubes. Please note: Sunscreen older than 6 months loses half of its SPF rating; make sure that you have new sunscreen. Lips cream. SPF 30, at least 2 stick. Make sure your lips cream is new. Food We can get a lot of candy bars, granola bars, dried fruit for hiking and climbing days; however, you may have personal favorites or things that work well for you such as Power Bars, beef jerky, or Guu packets. You will not be able to purchase these specialty items in South America, so please feel free to bring some with you. Around one pound Hand warmers and Toe Warmers: Bring 3 sets of each. Toe Warmers are different that hand warmers because they are formulated to work in a lower oxygen environment, like the inside of a boot, they also burn out more quickly Nalgene Water Bottles: 2.5 liters minimum capacity. Recommended: Two 1 liter & One .5 liter. Wide-mouth bottles required. No water bags or bladder systems, they freeze on summit day. Insulated Water Bottle Covers: These help prevent liquids from Outdoor Research Water Bottle Parka freezing. It should completely cover the bottle 2 Rolls of Toilet Paper
2 Luggage Locks: For your duffel bags. Must be TSA approved.
Cannon G12
Camera
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Stuffs Sacks Cough Drops
☐ 1 Pair Shorts In Mendoza: It is hot, so shorts and t-shirts etc. work well. ☐ 1 Pair casual pants Very lightweight trekking pants ☐ 2 Shirts Long sleeve shirts to protect from sun & dust while staying cool. ☐ 1 Swimsuit TOILET ARTICLES
☐ Toiletry Bag: Nothing but the basics: Toothpaste, Toothbrush, Baby Wipes ☐ Pee Bottle (1 Liter): Large mouth. Make sure the bottle is clearly marked, “Pee Bottle.” Pee Funnel (for women): It is a good idea to practice, practice, and practice.
☐ Hand Sanitizer: 4 oz size should be sufficient. Other alcohol based hand cleaners also work well. PERSONAL FIRST AID-KIT
☐ Small Personal First-Aid Kit: Ear plugs, Moleskin, molefoam, waterproof first-aid tape, athletic tape, Band-Aids PERSONAL MEDICATIONS
☐ Drugs/Prescriptions/Medications: Pepto Bismol. Acetazolamide (Diamox) 125 or 250mg tablets for altitude sickness. Ibuprofen (Advil, Motrin) 200mg tablets, or Excedrin, for altitude headaches, sprains, aches, etc. Acetaminophen (Tylenol) 325mg tablets for sensitive stomach
☐ Pepto- Bismol ( Stomach Relief) ☐ Immodium (Anti-Diarrhea) ☐ Antibiotics: Broad spectrum antibiotics for Traveler's Diarrhea. UTENSILS
☐ BOWL GSI Fairshare Mug ☐ INSULATED MUG Stanley Outdoor Coffee Mug w/Clip Grip - 16oz ☐ SPOON or SPORK ☐ POCKETKNIFE Benchmade 556 Mini-Griptilian Knife OPTIONAL ITEMS
☐ READING MATERIAL / JOURNAL
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☐ POD or MP3 PLAYER EQUIPMENT PROVIDED BBE provides the following equipment for your program: tents, group cooking equipment, climbing ropes, shovels, and blue bags (for solid waste disposal). Every guide on your climb will carry rescue equipment and a first aid kit including Emergency Oxygen. Each climb has two-way radios and a satellite phone for emergency contact. PRE-TRIP CHECK LIST
☐ Purchase travel and rescue insurance ☐ Return the Participant Information Form to the BBE Office. ☐ Purchase airplane tickets ☐ Purchase airplane tickets.
This list is only a guide. While you are required to bring everything on this list, there are numerous options, brands, and versions of each piece of equipment, unless otherwise noted. Using our Current Suggested Brand List we encourage you to shop around, do research, use your experience and the listed features to find the best gear for you. If you have questions please give us a call or email us!
Benegas Brothers Expeditions
9084 Treasure Way Sandy, Utah 84093 info@benegasbrothers.com Skype: Benegas Brothers Expeditions Phone: 801- 512-0592 www.benegasbrothers.com
Here is a quick checklist: Send us a copy of your flight itinerary. Make two photocopies of your passport & other documents. Leave one at home. Have your personal medications packed and prescription secured. If you have any question regarding your equipment for this trip, please give us a call. If you have any problems or delay on route, contact our office in Salt Lake City ( 801- 440-2605 or 801-512-1824 )
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Important Contact information: Benegas Brothers Expeditions Office phone: 801-512-0592 Willie mobile: 801-440-2605 Damian: Argentina Mobile: 011-54-9261-(15) 631-3804. Hotel El portal Suites: Phone: 011-54-261-438-2038 from USA Phone: 0261-4382038 From Argentina outside of Mendoza. Phone: 438-2038 from the Airport. Hotel Executive Park Suites
San Lorenzo 660 Mendoza, Argentina T: +54 -261-5245000 www.executive.parksuites.net/
Notes:
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Benegas Brothers Expeditions 9084 Treasure Way Sandy, Utah 84093 info@benegasbrothers.com Skype: Benegas Brothers Expeditions Phone: 801- 512-0592 www.benegasbrothers.com
www.benegasbrothers.com