gu覺de MARCH 2014
Our peaceful paradise Shopping, sightseeing, dining, culture
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C R I SP,
C I T RU S
BE AU T Y
contents
FILE PHOTO BY JAMES WHITTAKER
Whale watching is a popular activity this month. Pages 5 & 8
n Arts
n Religion
overview 12–13 local products 33–35 shows 47
our abundant churches 16–17
n Business
flex the plastic 26-35
our economic ‘miracle’ 18–19
n Events
n Shopping n Sightseeing tours 20–21
calendar 42-47
n Sports & activities
n Food & drink
golf, tennis, etc 22
best places to eat 36-39
n Transportation
n Nature
airlines 23 buses 23 ferries 24 taxis 25
National Parks 10–11 our harmless critters 14
n People Minister’s welcome 4
n Practicalities health, customs etc 23-25
2 bermuda.com guide
n Weather what to expect 25
Co-publisher & advertising manager: Lisa Beauchamp, lbeauchamp@bermudasun.bm Tel: 278-1850 Co-publisher & editor-in-chief: Tony McWilliam, tmcwilliam@ bermudasun.bm Tel: 278-1860 Design & Layout: Creative Circle Media Solutions Accounts: Donna Vesely Tel: 278-1831 Delivery: Lloyd Somner Cover photo: Fishing off an old pier, St George’s, by Tony McWilliam Contributors: Lisa Greene, Sarah Lagan, Nicola Muirhead, Alison Outerbridge, Kageaki Smith, www. moongateproductions.com bermuda.com guide Published by The Bermuda Sun a subsidiary of MediaHouse © Bermuda.com Ltd. Printed by Island Press Ltd. Web: www.bermuda.com Information and services contained in the guide are believed to be correct at the time of printing; however, prices and times may be subject to change without notice. The Bermuda Sun Limited makes every effort to ensure accuracy but accepts no liability for errors or omissions. Reproduction in whole or in part by permission of the publisher only.
TIME DESIGNED
The C lassiC
© D. YURMAN 2014
®
FOR EVERY SPECIAL OCCASION
55 FRONT STREET AND 16 QUEEN STREET, HAMILTON CLOCKTOWER MALL, DOCKYARD ALL MAJOR HOTELS • TEL (441) 295 2351
welcome to bermuda
ON BEHALF OF the Government and the people of Bermuda, welcome to our island home. Known around the world for our beautiful beaches, stunning turquoise water, world-class golf and warm, friendly people, Bermuda has been a favourite vacation destination for generations of travellers. Let us show you that Bermuda is so much more. We invite you to enjoy unexpected treasures, such as boutique shopping, island-inspired cuisine, vibrant arts and cultural activities and our rich history. During your stay, I hope you have an opportunity to explore some of our finest features, such as the 17th century Town of St. George, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the City of Hamilton and the Royal Naval Dockyard. However you choose to enjoy your Bermuda vacation, I am certain you will have a memorable experience. Once again, welcome and I hope you have a wonderful stay. We look forward to welcoming you back to our shores very soon. Sincerely, The Hon. Shawn G. Crockwell JP, MP Minister of Tourism Development and Transport
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feature
PHOTO BY ANDREW STEVENSON
Keep your camera at the ready — you never know when a humpback might breach.
Whale watching — the biggest show in town THERE ARE FEW GREATER SPECTACLES in the natural world than a 40-ton humpback whale hauling itself out of the water to perform a 360-degree flip. The aerial gymnastics of these gentle giants draws scores of onlookers to our south shore as they migrate from breeding grounds in the Caribbean to feed in the North Atlantic. Most head to the New England states and the maritime provinces of Canada while others make their way up to Greenland, Iceland and Norway. During March and April the whales faithfully plot an ancient course that shaves our south shore, sometimes coming so close you can see them from the beach. If you spot a line of cars pulled over, chances are a pod of whales are providing an impromptu show for a cliff-top audience. Continued on page 8
bermuda.com guide 5
city sights
P
O X
Y
6 bermuda.com guide
V
W
U
A
C
B
D
E
T
S
R
H
Q
N
F
M
I
G
L
J
K
To F ort Hamilton
Bermuda’s capital city, Hamilton, is
J Historical Residential Buildings Corner of Dundonald and King Streets K A detour may be
C Cedar Avenue
D St Theresa’s Cathedral Corner Cedar Avenue and Angle Street
Elliott and Princess Streets
outside staircases and verandahs Corner of
and rare G Attractive 1800’s built buildings,
F Alaska Hall Corner of Angle and Court Streets
E The Centre Junction of North and Angle Streets
R The Sessions House and Magistrates Court Corner of Parliament and Reid Streets S Freemasons Hall Corner of Reid Street and Chancery Lane
Q Cenotaph and Cabinet Building, Front Street opposite Cenotaph
P Custom House Warehouse, 1794 Corner Court and Front Streets
Court Street between Church & Reid Streets
the oldest functioning Friendly Society Lodge
N The 1937 Recorder Building Court Street between Victoria and Church Streets O Alexandria Lodge,
KEY
Points A - Y on Map
Recommended route
Return to City Hall.
Y The Anglican Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity Corner of Burnaby and Church Streets
Corner of Queen and Reid Streets X The Arcade Corner of Reid and Burnaby Streets
National Library and the Bermuda Historical Society Museum
V Corner of Front and Queen Streets, a detour may be taken westward to Albouy’s Point & Barr’s Bay Park W The Bermuda
U Old Yacht Club Steps on Front Street
Commercial Buildings best viewed from south side South side of Front St. opposite Chancery Ln.
T Prominent Historical
A SELF GUIDED TOUR OF SOME HISTORIC SITES OF HAMILTON
For a full description of the historical locations identified visit www.cityhall.bm/hamilton-route-map
M St Paul AME Church Corner of Victoria and Court Streets
Corner of King and Victoria Streets L Manchester Unity Hall Victoria Street at Joell’s Alley
taken at this point to Fort Hamilton
I Dr E.F. Gordon Square on Dundonald Street
B Eastern gate of Victoria Park on Cedar Avenue
Begin at City Hall.
H Corner of Dundonald and Court Streets
A The City Hall Church Street in front of City Hall
City of Hamilton Walkway of History
antipode to Perth, Western Australia
city sights
bermuda.com guide 7
feature
Humpbacks sing complex songs
PHOTO BY ANDREW STEVENSON
A humpback whale cruises along the surface of the water, not far off Bermuda’s shoreline.
Continued from page 5
Far better, though, to take a whale watching tour by boat. You can book day trips through various tour operators and it costs roughly $90 per person. The spectacular breaches are just part of the thrill. Hearing the low mewing of whale song or watching a mother and calf glide through our clear, blue waters are unforgettable experiences. Some days are better than others and there is an outside chance all you’ll get for your outlay is seasick. But if you’re lucky, the spectacle is unforgettable. “The whale watching here is some of the best in the world,” says Andrew Stevenson a Bermuda-based filmmaker and researcher. “It’s pretty consistent over a short period of time and you don’t have to travel 8 bermuda.com guide
30 miles out to sea; it’s fairly common to see them from the shore.” More and more humpbacks are being spotted off Bermuda each year. And thanks to the worldwide whaling ban, Mr. Stevenson says, the numbers will increase. You can get involved in his research project by submitting your whale photos to his website www. whalesbermuda.bm or through Email, spout@logic.bm The aim is to create a database of images of whale flukes — the distinctive patterned tail that helps identify each individual — and match them to pictures of whales sighted elsewhere in the world. Scientists are trying to learn more about whales and Mr. Stevenson says Bermuda offers a unique opportunity to see them feeding and socializing on their migratory route. n Various tour boats will take you out whale watching. One leaves from the Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute, just east of Hamilton city centre. Minimum age, 10. Tel. 294-0204. Email: info@buei.org wwwbuei.org
PHOTO BY ANDREW STEVENSON
Various tour boats will take you out whale watching.
parks
PHOTO BY NICOLA MUIRHEAD
Get back to nature on lush and lovely Cooper’s Island in the east end.
Cooper’s Island a real gem Cooper’s Island, located at the north-eastern tip of Bermuda, features a Nature Reserve and Wilderness Area and stands as a striking example of the restoration and protection of our precious public land. As one of the island’s few remaining open spaces, it acts as an important buffer zone for the critically important offshore Nature Reserves, protecting indigenous species of plants, animals and marine life. This historical and biologically rich open space of approximately 12 acres was handed back to the Bermuda Government by NASA (who ran a tracking station at the site) in September, 2001. The site has a colourful history. Cooper’s Island was first mentioned when Governor Moore was faced with 10 bermuda.com guide
the problem of famine in 1612, caused by the accidental introduction of rats from a captured Spanish grain ship. The rats destroyed all crops and stored food. The Nature Reserve is heavily wooded and supports a variety of habitats including salt-water marsh, beach, dunes, rocky coastline, sea grass beds, upland coastal and uplands hillside. You might see turtles, cahows, queen conch and tropicbirds (our emblematic longtails). Healthy sea grass beds found here are critical to fish Continued on next page
Endemic plants include Bermuda moss
parks
Grab a picnic, take a stroll
is the 32-acre Hog Bay Park, one of our best birding locations. Walking paths skirt agricultural fields and meander through woodlands and hillsides before By LISA GREENE | Our National Parks, arriving at a secluded shoreline with spread over 108 sites and 1,609 acres, spectacular views. range from tiny, secluded gardens to Spittal Pond, a 64-acre reserve, on long, beautiful beaches with pink sand. the south shore in Smith’s Parish, is Some favourites of mine include the our best birding spot. Here the rugged 16-mile long Railway Trail, Hog Bay Park, shoreline and woodland surrounding a Spittal Pond Nature Reserve and Ferry brackish pond support a large variety Point Park. of migratory and resident Many sections of the species. Clamber over the Trail provide an ‘off the rocks and look for Sally beaten track’ experilightfoot crabs at the ence for walkers, joggers water’s edge or parrotfish or those on bicycles. feeding in surging water, A paved stretch runs and watch waves ‘boiling’ for nearly two miles over reefs. Along this from Somerset Village shore you can also find to Somerset Bridge, with ‘Portuguese Rock’, bearglimpses into backyards ing a carved inscription and views of bays and from visiting sailors dated the Great Sound. Paths 1543. off the trail lead to Out east is Ferry Point PHOTO BY KAGEAKI SMITH Gilbert Nature Reserve, Park, a scenic 64 acres Verdant: Ferry Point Park the large Heydon Trust perfect for walking, jogEstate (with its exquisite little chapel), ging or cycling, with historic features panoramic Scaur Hill Fort, and down to such as the Martello Tower, Ferry Island the water’s edge. Rock cuts from the Fort and an old lime kiln. original railway, and thick vegetation, These are just a few of the many create welcome shady areas. locations maintained by our GovernLess than a mile further south along ment’s Department of Parks; it’s your the Middle Road from Somerset Bridge turn now to discover your favourite. n
Continued from previous page
populations as they produce oxygen for fish and animals. There are five picturesque beaches within the reserve; Turtle Bay, Long Bay, Well Bay, Fort Hill Bay and Soldiers Bay. The entrance to Cooper’s Island is gated and fenced and controlled ve-
hicular access allows only wheelchairs, emergency and service vehicles. Take a walk into this uniquely preserved site — it’s truly worth every step. • Information supplied by the Department of Parks. Please assist them by adhering to Nature Reserve etiquette. bermuda.com guide 11
arts
PHOTO COURTESY OF THE MASTERWORKS COLLECTION
A Masterworks treasure: Front Street, Hamilton, by American painter Frederick James (1915-1985).
Immerse yourself in the arts By SARAH LAGAN | Our small island is packed with art galleries, studios and museums. Our art hot spots include: n Bermuda National Gallery
n BNG East
A repository for important works of art, The Bermuda National Gallery addresses social issues through its exhibitions, too. Current shows are Eyes on the World (photojournalism about human rights) in partnership with the Alexia Foundation; Women Artists in the Bermuda National Gallery Collection; Impressions of Bermuda: The David L. White Gift to the BNG; and Meredith Andrews: Portraits of Power. City Hall & Arts Centre, Hamilton. Tel. 295-9428. www.bng.bm
The Bermuda National Gallery’s new satellite location, BNG East, is located in a characterful National Trust property in St George’s. It showcases local artists both past and present, plus international artists. BNG East, 1 Bridge Street, St George’s. Tel. 297-9428. www.bng.bm
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n Bermuda Society of Arts Known affectionately as ‘the people’s gallery’, BSoA’s contributors range from pro artists to schoolchildren and prisoners. Four separate galleries, hosts 50 shows a
arts
Georgia O’Keefe painted in Bermuda year. City Hall & Arts Centre, Hamilton. Tel. 292-3824. www.bsoa.bm
n National Museum of Bermuda Exhibitions and displays range from Bermuda’s Defence Heritage, The Slave Trade and The Royal Navy Collections. ShipwreckIsland: Sunken Clues to Bermuda’s Past celebrates Bermuda as the shipwreck capital of the Atlantic. Local artist Graham Foster’s epic historical mural is a must see. Dockyard. Tel. 234-1418. www.bmm.bm
n Bermuda Arts Centre at Dockyard Here you might meet Bermuda’s artists who are residents, including Jonah Jones, Christopher Marson, Christopher Grimes and Chesley Trott. Also enjoy the everchanging collections by the Plein Air Painters of Bermuda. Dockyard. Tel. 234-2809. www.artbermuda.bm
Masterworks The Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art is home to an impressive collection of over 1,400 pieces of Bermuda inspired art. Some by such famous names as Georgia O’Keefe, Marsden Hartley, Winslow Homer and Albert Gleizes are part of the Permanent Collection. There is a constantly evolving showcase of local artists, and visiting artists in residence who paint Bermuda’s dynamic landscapes. Prints and original local art are on sale in the Arrowroot Gift Shop. Homer’s Café serves baked goods, soups, paninis, gluten free products and afternoon tea. Location: Botanical Gardens, Paget. Wheelchair accessible with ramps and elevator. Open Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm & Sun 11am-4:30pm. Admission $5, free for members and under 12s. Closed public holidays. Tel. 299-4000. www. bermudamasterworks.com
Sunday 11:00am - 4:30pm
The Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art is home to an impressive collection of over 1,200 pieces of Bermuda inspired art; some by such famous names as Georgia O’Keeffe, Winslow Homer and Albert Gleizes. The museum shop sells prints and original local art; a perfect keepsake to take home! To learn about cultu and history there is no Bermuda’s culture better stop on your vacation itinerary.
Located in the beautiful Botanical Gardens, five minutes from Hamilton, the museum is on three major bus rou tes (1,2,&7) and is clearly sign posted from all entrances.
Sunday 11:00am - 4:30pm Sandwiches, paninis, salads, quiche, soup, hot lunches, baked goods, specialty coffees, afternoon tea and even picnic baskets to go! We also offer a range of bakery products that are gluten free
04 299.4000 bermuda.com guide 13
wildlife
Birds aplenty — and no snakes! By ANDREW DOBSON | Like most other things in Bermuda — groceries,
cars, shipwrecked settlers — our wildlife was largely imported, either accidentally or on purpose. There are hundreds of feral cats and thousands of feral chickens island-wide — but no feral dogs.
PHOTOS BY TONY MCWILLIAM
Above: The ubiquitous Great Kisakadee is a tyrant flycatcher while the Mourning Dove, below, is named for its plaintive call.
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We have a few rats, of course, but no snakes. Spiders are abundant but generally harmless. The occasional poisonous spider arrives on imported lumber but they rarely bother people. Mosquitoes aren’t a problem and there are few bugs to worry about. To find the mildly venomous nine-inch centipede, you would have to turn over a lot of rocks in St. David’s Parish. Try to avoid the Portuguese man-owar, a purple jellyfish that sports long tentacles and causes a painful sting. Sharks are rare in Bermuda waters and there are no records of shark attacks. One of our most intriguing creatures is the common whistling frog. Their ‘gleepgleep’ chorus is particularly vigorous after rainfall on warm evenings and you’ll be amazed that a frog little bigger than your thumbnail can be so audible. Easier to spot on wet evenings are enormous cane toads, introduced to control cockroaches. Birds are plentiful; about 375 species have been recorded in Bermuda and 20 are resident. Many migrate through the island and more than 100 species are present during the winter, including a variety of ducks, herons and egrets. For more, visit www.audubon.bm n
DISCOVER A PART OF BERMUDA
THAT’S OVER
30
MILLION YEARS OLD
AND STILL GROWING Visit www.caves.bm for more details. The Crystal Caves are a world of delicate splendour with magnificent crystal stalactites and stalagmites, each surrounding a clear lake. Come see the Crystal & Fantasy Caves, an exquisite world that Mother Nature began over 30 million years ago. HOW TO FIND US: BUS ROUTES 1/3/10/11 | JUST OFF WILKINSON AVE 8 Crystal Cave Road, Hamilton Parish CR 04, Bermuda | 441-293-0640 | info@caves.bm
faith
PHOTO BY WWW.MOONGATEPRODUCTIONS.COM
The elegant St Mark’s Church is set in lovely grounds in Smith’s Parish
Our abundant churches TO REALLY GET A FEEL for Bermuda, take a look at the island’s churches, or better still attend a service or a social event organised by a church. With such a high concentration of churches, and the wide range of beliefs catered for, visitors should have little trouble finding a church that suits them. Within this diversity of faith, Anglicanism has a strong presence, along 16 bermuda.com guide
faith
52% of worshippers here are Protestant with the African Methodist Episcopal Church, Roman Catholicism, Seventh-day Adventists, Jehovah’s Witness’s, Methodists, Brethren Churches, and the Salvation Army. Church organizations often come together to help deal with social problems and are also active in relief aid abroad, with the Cornerstone Foundation one of the first to offer assistance in Haiti. Many of Bermuda’s older churches are like mini museums. Visit the 400 year-old St Peter’s Church in St George’s, the oldest Anglican church in continuous use outside the British Isles, and marvel at its elegant simplicity. In Pembroke is St John’s Church built in the 1620s; overlooking Harrington Sound is Holy Trinity Church, with a nave built around 1670; and St Anne’s Church in Southampton, one of the oldest parish churches in Bermuda, was started by our early settlers and rebuilt in 1717. Visit the neo-Gothic Bermuda Cathedral that dominates Hamilton and climb its tower to get panoramic views of the city and adjoining parishes. Also in Hamilton
is St Theresa’s Cathedral: this Catholic church, built in the 1930s, has one of the largest weekly attendances on the island; and tiny Heydon Chapel, located in Sandys and set in a 44-acre park, is perfect for quiet reflection. There are so many charming churches set in the unique Bermuda landscape. Among them, overlooking the ocean, is the beautiful St James Church in Sandys Parish. The island’s legacy of slavery is represented by The Cobbs Hill Methodist Church in Warwick — built in 1827 by slaves and free blacks as a place for them to worship and is on Bermuda’s African Diaspora Heritage Trail. It is people who really make a church, and the religious community here welcomes visitors. It is a good way to feel part of the community and to experience Bermuda on a level you never thought possible. Contact churches for opening times and for a complete list of places of worship visit bermuda.com. n
PHOTO BY NICOLA MUIRHEAD
Road to salvation? Bethel AME Church in Hamilton Parish.
bermuda.com guide 17
business brief
PHOTOS BY NICOLA MUIRHEAD
A mix of talented locals and international high fliers run our international business sector.
How tiny Bermuda became a hub of international business BERMUDA, CONTRARY TO the famous song, is not another world: it is two other worlds. Along with the joys of the ‘sun, sea and sand’, the island is one of the world’s leading financial services economies, deriving much of its income from insurance, banking, fund and trust services. How on earth did that happen? The seeds were sown in the 1930s, with the world in a Great Depression. A local banker (Jack Tucker) and a lawyer (Reginald Conyers) invented a type of company that enabled foreigners to do business from Bermuda while simultaneously protecting local interests. It took a while for the idea to catch on. That’s no surprise. Who would equate an island with few natural resources, 800 miles from anywhere, with economic opportunity? 18 bermuda.com guide
1973: Bermuda Stock Exchange opened. In the early 1960s, an American called Fred Reiss did exactly that. He spotted that Bermuda suited his plan to offer international companies the chance to insure themselves and cut out the middle men, taking advantage of the island’s lack of income or corporation taxes. Today, ‘captive’ insurance companies, as Reiss called them, number more than 5,000 around the world. Bermuda remains their number one home. Banking for the super-wealthy had been a Bermuda specialty since the 1920s. As more people around the world became rich in the 1960s and 70s, Bermuda’s banks expanded — a little. We have only four banks. At its core, what Bermuda sells to business is its crystalclean reputation. Having really been a secret for the few, Bermuda made international headlines late in 1992, following Hurricane Andrew, the world’s costliest catastrophe. Andrew bankrupted a number of the big global insurance companies and caused others to close their doors. A crisis arose. Without insurance, banks won’t lend. That kills world trade, as we’ve seen in the past couple of years. Enter the ‘big cats’. Soon after Andrew, eight catastrophe reinsurance companies — reinsurance is coverage that insurance companies buy to spread their risk — were formed in Bermuda, with $4 billion in capital. The business world went back to normal, but Bermuda would never be the same again. Following disasters in 2001 (the events of 9/11) and 2005 (Hurricanes Katrina, Rita and Wilma), waves of new giant insurance
business brief
and reinsurance companies formed in Bermuda. More than 30 companies with $1 to $10 billion in capital now call the island home. In the process, Hamilton gradually became an important world centre of finance. One tall building (by our standards) followed another. Executive homes were built. All the trappings of the big city were added to the island experience. Gradually, business replaced tourism as Bermuda’s bread and butter. GDP soared. Incomes soared. Prices soared. Accurately described as a “fishing village” as late as the mid-1950s, Bermuda became a hotbed of creative financial thinking and a repository of wealth. Today, more than $1 trillion calls the island home. Bermuda is to insurance what Silicon Valley is to computers, except that we still have the sun, sea and sand that make the island such a lovely place to do business. n
‘Bermuda is to insurance what Silicon Valley is to computers.’ bermuda.com guide 19
tours
Lemongrass is boiled and taken by
Let locals guide you By ALISON OUTERBRIDGE | The cooler months in Bermuda bring opportunities to explore cultural, historic and natural attracO F
B E R M U D A
L T D
tions islandwide with charismatic locals who love to share the unique
ALL-INCLUSIVE INTERACTIVE ISLAND ECO-TOURS Visit Bermuda’s One and Only Jungle Snorkel with Tropical Fish Experience Cave Swimming Stroll Along Secluded Beaches SUMMER EXCURSIONS Summer all-inclusive trips include Tom Moore’s Jungle & cave exploring, St. David’s Head, St. David’s Lighthouse, & snorkelling at Cooper’s Island.
charm of their island. The Department of Community and Cultural Affairs hosts Rendezvous Activities, a programme of daily events. This includes a guided walking tour in the City of Hamilton and a tour of the UNESCO World Heritage Site Town of St George’s, with a greeting from the town’s mayor. In the west end there is a south shore eco-walk at Warwick Long Bay and a tour of the Royal Naval Dockyard. There is also a tour of the Paget Railway Trail with a focus on plants and herbal remedies used by the first settlers. See
WINTER EXCURSIONS Winter all-inclusive trips include Tom Moore’s Jungle, Fort Hamilton, and The Vines in Southlands. Should be physically fit for walking rough terrain.
TELEPHONE: 704-0999 bermyreefexplorer@gmail.com MAKE RESERVATIONS ONLINE AT: www.bermudahiddengems.com 20
bermuda.com guide
PHOTO BY NICOLA MUIRHEAD
Byways Tours visit historic Gibb’s Hill Lighthouse.
tours
Bermudians to reduce fevers
PHOTO BY NICOLA MUIRHEAD
Hidden Gems includes the lush Southlands property on its tour itinerary.
pages 42 & 43 for the Rendezvous Activities schedule. Heidi Cowen, a sixth generation Bermudian, runs Byways Tours and shares her passion for nature and history in 5 to 6 hour tours that include a visit to Gibb’s Hill Lighthouse, where her grandfather was the keeper. Heidi uses an eight-seater van and tours include a picnic lunch. She also caters to families, offering a shorter tour with stops to feed fish, climb forts, look for caves and visit turtles. Tel. 535-9169 or visit www. bywaysbermuda.bm. The adventurous visitor will enjoy a day out with Ashley Harris in her brightly painted Hidden Gems of Bermuda Ltd tour van. Ashley translates her love of nature into a 5-hour tour with stops at nature reserves and a fort; it includes a packed lunch, snacks and water. Flashlights are provided for the visit to Tom Moore’s Jungle, a lush reserve with underground caves and natural fish ponds. Fort Hamilton above the capital offers panoramic views and a moat filled with exotic plants. Last stop is at Southlands, a unique
property filled with pristine woodland and a banyan grove. Tel. 704-0999 or visit www.bermudahiddengems.com n
bermuda.com guide 21
sports
It’s a sporty island THIS TIME OF YEAR is ideal for tennis and golf — the humidity is low and though you might see the odd shower, the climate is conducive to outdoor fun. Our golf courses: Belmont Hills, Warwick, tel. 236-6400 Turtle Hill Golf Club, tel. 239-6952 Mid-Ocean, Hamilton Parish, tel. 293-0330 Ocean View (9 holes), Devonshire, tel. 295-9092 Port Royal, Southampton, tel. 234-0974 Riddell’s Bay, Warwick, tel. 238-1060 Rosewood Tucker’s Point, Hamilton Parish, tel. 298-6970 For kids, Bermuda Fun Golf is a terrific new facility for all ages at Dockyard while on Middle Road, Southampton, you’ll find the equally enjoyable Bermuda Golf Academy (open seven days a week, 9am-
22 bermuda.com guide
10pm. Sun & Mon close at 9pm). It’s a 300-yard driving range with 30 bays, 25 covered. PGA pros are available for lessons, and an Adventure Mini Golf course meanders around ponds and waterfalls. There’s a bar, café and restaurant, too. Tel. 2388800. Other sporting activities include deep sea fishing, cycling and bowling. See www.bermuda.com for details.
practicalities
PHOTO BY TONY MCWILLIAM
Our taxi cabs are comfortable, safe — and often colourful.
The Bermuda essentials INFORMATION PROVIDED HERE is subject to change. For the latest, visit our website: www.bermuda.com. The Bermuda Sun newspaper is also a good resource: www.bermudasun.bm
n Airlines Air Canada Reservations: Tel: 1-888-247-2262. Flight Info: Tel: 293-1777. American Airlines Tel: 1-800-433-7300. Flight Info: Tel: 293-1420 AirTran 1-800-AIR-TRAN (247-8726) or 678-254-7999. British Airways Reservations: Tel: 1-800-247-9297. Airport customer service: Tel: 293-1944. Continental Airlines Reservations: Tel: 1-800-231-0856. Flight Info: Tel: 293-3092. Delta Airlines Reservations: Tel: 1-800-221-1212. Flight Info: Tel: 1-800-325-1999.
JETBLUE Tel: 1-800-JETBLUE (538-2583). Flight Info: Tel: 293-3608. U.S. Airways Reservations: Tel: 1-800-622-1015. Flight Info: Tel: 293-3073. WestJet Tel: 1-888-WESTJET (937-8538).
n Airport L.F. Wade International Airport (tel: 2932470) is located in St. George’s at the east end of the island. Allow 30 minutes from the city of Hamilton by taxi. Check-in two hours before departure.
n Banks Normally open from 9am to 4pm, Mon-Fri. There are many ATMs across the island. ATMs dispense Bermuda dollars which are on a par with US dollars.
n Buses All routes serving Hamilton arrive and leave the Bus Terminal on Washington Street, next to City Hall. Fares are reasonable and passes are available for up to three
bermuda.com guide 23
practicalities
Use pink bus stops for travel into Hamilton
months. Tokens, tickets and passes can be used on buses or ferries and can be bought at Hamilton Ferry Terminal, Hamilton Bus Terminal, hotels, post offices and the Dockyard Visitor Information Centre. Cash fares require exact change as dollar bills are not accepted. Tel: 292-3851 • www. bermudabuses.bm
n Business Hours Stores normally open from 9am to 5pm Monday to Saturday. Many grocery stores open 1-5pm on Sunday, most other stores are closed on Sundays.
n Cars No car rentals are available in Bermuda but you can rent scooters and pedal bikes.
n Communications
n Currency & Credit Cards The Bermuda dollar is equal in value to the U.S. dollar; both are legal tender. Traveller’s cheques and credit cards are accepted at most shops, restaurants and hotels.
n Dress Code The dress code in Bermuda is conservative. Bathing suits and bare chests are not acceptable, except (for men) at beaches and pools. Casual wear is acceptable in restaurants at lunchtime. Some upscale restaurants require men to wear a jacket in the evening. Check the dress requirements when making reservations.
n Emergency Call 911 and specify whether you need police, the fire service or an ambulance.
Bermuda’s well-developed telecommunications infrastructure provides modern telephone, fax, Internet, cellular and cellularroaming services.
n Etiquette
n Consulate
n Ferries
It is customary to greet islanders with a ‘good morning’, ‘good afternoon’ or ‘good evening’ — Bermuda prides herself on civility.
The U.S. Consulate is located on Crown Hill, 16 Middle Road, Devonshire, tel: 295-1342. Open Mon to Fri 8am - 4:30pm. Consular services are provided on an appointment basis only. For details, visit the Consulate’s website: http://hamilton. usconsulate.gov or contact HMLUSCitizenQuery@state.gov. For after-hours life or death emergencies for American citizens only, contact the duty officer at (441) 3353828. • Honorary Consuls for other countries are also represented in Bermuda — see the telephone directory for listings.
All ferries depart from the Hamilton Ferry Terminal on Front Street. Regular ferries cross Hamilton Harbour and faster catamarans visit Dockyard. A route between Dockyard and St. George’s operates in the summer months. Transportation tickets, tokens and passes valid for buses and ferries are available at the Hamilton Ferry Terminal, Hamilton Bus Terminal, hotels, post offices and the Dockyard Visitor Information Centre. Cash fares require exact change as dollar bills are not accepted. Scooters are allowed on some routes. Tel: 295-4506 • www.marineandports.bm
n Country Code
n Health
U.S. & Canada — dial 1 plus area code plus no. U.K. — dial 011 plus 44 plus area code plus no. Caribbean — dial 1 plus area code plus seven digits. International — dial 011 plus country code plus area code plus no.
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No inoculations are required for Bermuda. There are no poisonous insects or mammals.
n Hospital King Edward VII Memorial Hospital (tel. 2362345) is a first-rate facility located on Point Finger Road in Paget Parish. An associate of the American Hospital Association. Airlifts can be arranged to the U.S. or Canada.
practicalities
and blue for heading away from the city n Internet Most hotels and many guest houses provide Internet access. In the city of Hamilton, access is free at the Bermuda Library on Queen Street and the Main Post Office on Parliament Street. Public Internet access is also available in Hamilton, Dockyard and St. George’s by purchasing a TBI Wi-fi Zone coupon. Some cafes provide wi-fi access to customers.
n Mail The General Post Office is located at 56 Church Street Hamilton (tel: 297-7893), with eight sub-offices islandwide.
n Religion Churches are ubiquitous here. Anglican, Catholic, African Methodist Episcopal and Seventh Day Adventist are among the major faiths. See pages 16 & 17 — and the church listings in Friday’s Bermuda Sun newspaper.
n Scooters You can rent scooters by the day or week, if you are 18 or older. Helmets, provided by the rental companies, are mandatory.
n Smoking Smoking is banned from all enclosed public spaces including restaurants, bars, shops, theatres or any enclosed workspaces.
n Taxis Cabs are safe and comfortable. Rates are relatively high but controlled by law. Taxis may be hired for sightseeing tours.
n Time Differences New York — one hour behind Bermuda Los Angeles — four hours behind London — four hours ahead Toronto — one hour behind Daylight Savings Time comes into effect from the second Sunday in March through to the first Sunday in November.
n Tipping In most cases, a service charge or gratuity has been added to the bill. Where the gratuity has not been added, 15% is about right.
PHOTO BY NICOLA MUIRHEAD
Our white roofs capture rainwater that we store in tanks and use to drink.
n TV/Radio/Media Three main local channels screen a nightly news bulletin — VSB (channel 11), ZBM (9) and ZFB (7). A government station, CITV, is on channel 2 and there’s a handful of local radio stations. The quality of local programming varies considerably. The Bermuda Sun, which publishes this guide, provides news seven days a week on its website www.bermudasun.bm and publishes a newspaper on Wednesdays and Fridays.
n Water Tap water is safe to drink, unless you are instructed otherwise. Bermuda has no rivers, streams or reservoirs; all our water comes from rain or wells. Roofs are painted with a limestone wash that purifies rainwater.
n Weather Bermuda’s sub-tropical climate is generally mild and humid, but summer and winter temperatures vary considerably. The average annual temperature is 76ºF. Monthly averages: January 65ºF, water 66ºF; April 67ºF, water 68ºF; July 80ºF, water 81ºF; October 75ºF, water 76ºF. In an average year we see rain on 171 days and sunshine on 200 days.
n Wildlife See page 14 n
bermuda.com guide 25
go shopping
FILE PHOTO
Need gifts to take home? The Dockyard Craft Market has plenty of genuine, local souvenirs.
Take home quality items that will last You’ve already proved you have good taste by choosing to visit Bermuda so it’s fitting that our stores exude quality. There are bargains to be had — you’ll find hefty price differentials with the U.S. on jewellery, watches, perfume, silverware, porcelain and crystal. And you’ll enjoy additional relief at the cash register — there’s no sales tax. Many stores are in the City of Hamilton, but the Clocktower Mall at Dockyard, on the western tip of the island, boasts quality gift stores and boutiques. And the historic town of St. George’s — at the east end of Bermuda — also has a lively shopping scene. Goods made here or produced exclusively for local stores include pottery, jewellery, paintings and prints, pottery, rum, honey, condiments, cedar ware, Bermuda shorts, scarves, fragrances and pillows. Browse the following listings for details. n 26 bermuda.com guide
U.S. dollars can be used in Bermuda The Bermuda Perfumery The Bermuda Perfumery is located at historical Stewart Hall in the heart of St. George’s, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since 1928, The Bermuda Perfumery has crafted fine fragrances for men and women under the brand Lili Bermuda. All the perfumes represent Bermuda’s natural beauty and are made on premises at Stewart Hall. The Perfumery welcomes visitors for a free tour of its operations and to sample its unique fragrances. Lili Bermuda loves creating new and original fragrances, but always stays true to the essence of Bermuda. Its latest creation, “Calypso” is a great unisex fragrance, which captures the lively rhythms of the Island’s music and lifestyle. Calypso is a fresh blend of sparkling neroli and bergamot. Its heart reveals fruity notes of Bermuda loquats, aromatic notes of the south shore seagrass and white musk. Calypso is part of the “Water Collection”, which is a collection of
go shopping
fun and easy unisex fragrances. The Perfumery’s internationally acclaimed line also includes exclusive creations inspired by our beautiful Island’s botanicals. Modern women will love Coral, Pink, and Lily, and men will not want to leave Bermuda without a bottle of our famous fragrances 32° North and 64° West. The Perfumery is passionate about the art of perfume making and continues to innovate by using both traditional and modern techniques to produce exceptional perfumes. You are welcome to come to Stewart Hall and experience Lili Bermuda for yourself. The Bermuda Perfumery, Stewart Hall, 5 Queen Street, St. George’s GE 05 Tel: 293-0627. Fax: 293-8810 1-800-527-8213 (toll free in US/Canada) info@bermuda-perfumery.com www.lilibermuda.com. Winter hours 10am to 4pm. Closed Sundays and Public Holidays.
PHOTO BY NICOLA MUIRHEAD
Warm and welcoming: The staff at The Perfumery will help you find that perfect gift.
bermuda.com guide 27
go shopping
Locally made products are ‘Bermudiana’ The Island Shop
PHOTO BY KAGEAKI SMITH
Unusual gifts will catch your eye at The Island Shop.
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The Island Shop features exclusive and original hand-painted ceramics by Barbara Finsness that capture the colourful architectural and natural features of Bermuda. There are fine linens that feature her original embroidered designs and a huge array of different gift items. The Island Shop is a ‘must visit’ during your stay for gift selections found nowhere else in the world! They will gift-wrap or mail your purchases if desired. Check out their online store at www.islandexports.com. Winner of ‘The Best in Bermuda’ in retail giftware by The Bermudian magazine. Barbara features her original and printed artwork in the upper gallery of her Front Street store, and some can also be seen in her Southampton and St. George’s locations. Queen Street, Hamilton, tel: 292-5292. Somers Wharf, St. George’s, tel: 297-1514 Fairmont Hotel, Southampton, tel: 238-5999
go shopping
Bermuda’s capital city, Hamilton, is Bermuda Fragrance Collection Bermuda Blue, Bermuda Breeze & Bermuda Heat fragrances are designed to capture the essence of this beautiful island paradise. Each embrace much that is uniquely Bermuda….reflecting our beautiful ocean, clean air and the aroma of natural fruits & flowers. The latest of our dynamic collection is Bermuda Heat — celebrating the richness of Bermuda days into nights with sweet scents of bergamot, pear, sea lily & sandalwood. Bermuda Blue — a fresh citrus, with jasmine, lotus, and a nuance of crisp sea spray. Bermuda Breeze — a fruity floral, hinting of wild berries & mandarin, with a touch of jasmine. Take home a piece of Bermuda. Take home Bermuda Blue, Breeze & HEAT. Available through select stores across the Island and on-line including: Gibbons Company, Reid St., Hamilton www.gibbons.bm Peniston Brown, St. George Perfume Shop, Dockyard Carole Holding Shops – The Fairmont hotels & Dockyard Brown & Co., Front St., Hamilton www. brownandco.bm A.S. Cooper, Front St., Hamilton, branch and hotel stores www.ascooper.bm Distributed by P.D.L. Limited Tel: (441) 292-1710 infobb@pdl.bm
Bermuda Post Office
PHOTO BY KAGEAKI SMITH
Ah… the sweet scent of Bermuda! The Bermuda Blue & Bermuda Breeze fragrances capture the essence of our island.
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Every year the Bermuda Philatelic Bureau compiles a collection of commemoratives and arranges them into an attractive presentation package. This collection continues the Bermuda Post Office’s efforts to portray all facets of Bermuda’s heritage, culture and history. Continued on page 30
antipode to Perth, Western Australia
jewellery
PHOTO BY NICOLA MUIRHEAD
As well as its flagship stores in the city, Crissons has a beautiful outlet in the Clocktower Mall, Dockyard.
Crisson Jewellers The biggest Jeweller in Bermuda, the Crisson name stands for quality and value. The fabulous array of jewellery and watches reflect the style, sophistication and taste of our discerning customers. When you explore our exciting collections, we are sure you will agree that a visit to Crisson is the crowning moment of your Bermuda shopping experience. Along with the wonderfully eclectic collection of hand-selected pieces from all parts of the world, Crisson are Bermuda’s exclusive source for famous designers including David Yurman, Roberto Coin, Marco Bicego, John Hardy, Kabana, Nanis, Pandora, Marah Lago Larimar, and Rebecca . As for diamonds of distinction, Crisson has Bermuda’s largest collection of spectacular cuts from Cento, Memoire, A. Jaffe and Endless Diamonds. When it comes to timepieces, Crisson is definitely the place! Crisson are the officially authorised Rolex retailers
in Bermuda. You will also find Tag Heuer, Ebel, Raymond Weil, Movado, Tudor, Philip Stein, Christian Dior, Frederique Constant and Fendi. There are also collections from Seiko, Rue du Rhone, Swiss Army, Citizen, Casio, Luminox, Fruitz, Rotary, Guess, Bering, WeWood and Michael Kors. Our main store is on Front Street in Hamilton, with another on Queen Street. There’s also a store in the Clocktower Mall at Dockyard. If you are staying in one of Bermuda’s major Hotels, you’ll find a Crisson store there as well. Each of these boutique-style stores features pieces selected from our main collections in Hamilton. The shopping experience is relaxed and intimate, and the quality, value and prices are the same whichever store you choose to visit. Crisson Jewellers, 55 Front Street & 16 Queen Street, Hamilton; Clocktower Mall, Dockyard, and all major hotels. Tel: 295-2351 • www.facebook.com/ crissons • www.crisson.com
bermuda.com guide 31
historic treasures
One of the exquisite coins that has been fashioned into a keepsake by Walker Christopher Goldsmiths.
Every handcrafted piece bears the weight of history From the early sixteenthcentury, Spanish ships returning from their colonies in Central and South America embarked on the hazardous task of shipping their precious cargo from the New World back to the Old. They used Bermuda as a landmark, but some ended up stricken on our outer reefs. Many ships carried silver and gold, mined and minted into coinage in Mexico, Bolivia and Peru and 32 bermuda.com guide
Photos by Kageaki Smith
Master Jeweller Tim Palmer crafts coins into unique keepsakes.
Juan Bermudez found Bermuda in 1505 historic treasures destined for the Spanish treasuries of Cadiz and Seville. Surviving crewmen were sometimes able to salvage their cargo but storms and hurricanes took their toll on many ‘treasure ships’ well before they caught sight of Bermuda. Salvaging from wrecks was tough. But Richard Norwood, hired as a diver in a futile search for Bermuda pearls, invented the Bermuda Tub in 1612. This primitive diving bell, made from a weighted wine cask, could be lowered over a wreck site and enabled a diver to stay underwater for 45 minutes. In 1641, it was used to recover silver from The Concepción, which came to grief north of Hispaniola (Dominican Republic), carrying tons of silver and gold. In 1715, the Spanish Plate Fleet sank in a hurricane off Florida. While the Spanish were salvaging, their base camp was raided by privateer Henry Jennings, who fled with 120,000 pieces of eight. He retired to Bermuda to live the life of a gentleman. Sea salvaged coins still have strong appeal; the law forbids you from keeping anything found at a wreck but you can find pieces of eight and gold doubloons for sale on Hamilton’s Front Street. Master Jeweller Tim Palmer of Walker Christopher Goldsmiths sets gold and silver treasure coins into handcrafted jewellery. While silver coins or “cobs” tarnish and become encrusted in coral (they are often found in clusters), gold coins remain the same as the day they went to the bottom of the ocean. Owning a significant old coin puts you in touch with the past, as coins bear the weight of history. n bermuda.com guide 33
history
Photo by Kageaki Smith
Discover how our ancestors lived at the St George’s Historical Society Museum, Printery & Garden, located at the corner of Featherbed Alley and Duke of Kent Street, St George’s.
Step back in time By Lance Furbert | For an island of just 21 square miles, we pack in a lot of history. Bermuda’s superb historic sites and museums help tell our unique story but also help unravel the extraordinary saga of the development of English settlements in the New World. Here are some of our best historic sites. n National Museum of Bermuda The largest collection of artifacts and weapons in Bermuda. See slave artifacts, jewellery, silver coins, pottery, boats and large muzzle loading guns. Dockyard. Open daily 9:30am–5pm (last admission 4pm). Tel: 234-1418
n National Trust Museum The Globe Hotel on the northwest corner of King’s Square in St. George’s was built in 1700 by Governor Samuel Day. It houses the Bermuda National Trust Museum, which features the exhibit ‘Rogues & Runners —
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Bermuda and the American Civil War’. For opening times, tel: 236-6483
n Verdmont A delightful Georgian style historic home at the top of Collector’s Hill, Smith’s Parish. A superb collection of antique Bermuda cedar and mahogany furniture. For opening times, tel: 236-6483
n Bermuda Historical Society Museum Located in Par-la-Ville Park, Hamilton, it was the home of Bermuda’s famous
history
Bermuda is the oldest British colony. postmaster William Bennett Perot. Exhibits include model of ships plus early Bermudian coins and silver. For opening times, tel: 295-2487
presentation on our forts. Open Mon- Fri, 10am-4pm, tel: 297-1920
n Tucker House
The oldest Anglican Church site in continuous use outside of the British Isles. The first church on the site was built by Governor Richard Moore in 1612. Some headstones in the churchyard date back more than 300 years. Duke of York Street, St. George’s. Open Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm, Sunday service 11.15am, tel: 297-2459
Tucker House, on Water Street, St. George’s, was the home of Henry Tucker, President of the Governor’s Council. Artifacts and portraits of the famous Tucker family include Thomas Tudor Tucker, the longest serving treasurer of the U.S.. Joseph Hayne Rainey, the first African American elected member of the U.S. House of Representatives, once ran a barber’s shop here. For opening times, tel: 236-6483
n St. Peter’s Church, Their Majesties Chappell
n St. George’s Historical Society Museum, Printery & Garden
Located in Mitchell House, which dates from 1730 and is filled with original cedar furnishings, artwork and a working replica Overlooks Gate’s Bay, St. George’s, the of a Gutenberg printing press. The kitchen landing place of the Sea Venture castaways garden and above ground water tank demin 1609. Features dioramas that highlight onstrate features of 18th Century Bermuda our early history, a restored magazine, architecture. Open weapons of all types (from pistols to large Bermuda.com 1/2 ad:Layout 2 3/1/10 10:43 AM10am-4pm, Page 1 Mon-Thurs and Saturday. Tel. 297 0423. muzzle loading guns), and an audiovisual
n Fort St. Catherine
National Treasure Bermuda Maritime Museum is now the NATIONAL MUSEUM OF BERMUDA, home to 500 years of Island culture and history. Explore exciting exhibits in our historic military buildings— and watch for many more as we grow!
Royal Naval Dockyard, Sandys Tel. 441-234-1418 • www.bmm.bm Open every day 9:30am–5pm (last admission 4pm)
NATIONALMUSEUM BERMUDA OF
Incorporating BERMUDA MARITIME MUSEUM
bermuda.com guide 35
for children
Photo by Terri Mello
Don’t worry, he won’t bite: a toddler and a cow get acquainted at the border of Spittal Pond Nature Reserve in Smith’s Parish.
Our child-friendly island By TERRI MELLO | Sure, Bermuda is great for honeymooners and couples. Pink-sand beaches and turquoise water provide the perfect backdrop for a romantic getaway for two. And then there are the rest of us, the ones with whiny toddlers or easilybored grade-schoolers in tow. What can Bermuda offer us? The answer? Lots. Here are a few mom-tested suggestions. 36 bermuda.com guide
Our main beaches have lifeguards
for children
n Spittal Pond Nature Reserve Located on a spectacular stretch of shoreline in Smith’s Parish and kids love wandering along the winding trails, over the rocks and through the woods. You’ll see cows too, grazing at the entrance. Great picnic spot.
Photo by www.moongateproductions.com
Why not revive a fad and give your hula hoop a twirl on the beach?
n Bermuda Aquarium, Museum & Zoo (BAMZ) A must, whatever your age. Gaze at sharks and barracuda in the dramatic North Rock Tank, get close to giant tortoises and dip into the touch pool. Leave time for the playground before you go (it’s just past the alligator and yes, it’s real!) Tel: 293-2727
n Dockyard Take the fast ferry from Hamilton. At Snorkel Park, kids can swim, splash in the fountains or use the playground. Dolphin Quest (tel: 234-4464) is a short walk away.
n Botanical Gardens An ideal spot to burn energy, five minutes from Hamilton. Explore the gardens and greenhouses, palm groves and grassy hills. Kick a football, throw a Frisbee, bring a picnic.
bermuda.com guide 37
for children
Give the children a sweet treat at
n Beaches
n Playgrounds
Next to famous Horseshoe Bay Beach in Southampton is what’s locally known as Baby Beach. Turn right as you walk onto Horseshoe and you’ll find this beautiful cove, shallow and calm and perfect for little ones. Another kid-friendly beach is Tobacco Bay in the east end. Perfect for snorkelling and swimming with shallow water and protective rocks. Bathrooms and refreshments available.
No matter where you are, there’s a playground nearby. A few favourites include Shelly Bay (there’s also a kid-friendly beach here), Warwick Long Bay, Clearwater Beach (St. David’s) and Parson’s Road (Pembroke).
n Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute (BUEI) Explore the ocean without getting wet! Stop in the seashell room and then take a simulated submarine dive to the lower level. Bring along a handful of American quarters for the little merry-go-round on the lower level. Tel: 292-7219
n Palm Grove Gardens This free attraction near Ariel Sands Resort in Devonshire is rarely busy and offers beautiful scenery as well as an aviary with parrots.
n Tiny Tots at Masterworks The Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art (in the Botanical Gardens) offers art classes for tots on Wednesday from 9.45-10.30am & 10.45-11.30am. Bring along your baby, toddler or preschooler for some art fun, story
Gorgeous John Smith’s Bay in Smith’s Parish is big enough to give
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for children
Bailey’s Bay Ice Cream Parlour time and games. Members $7 / non-members $10. No sign up necessary, just drop in. Tel. 299-4000 for more details.
n At night… We have three movie theatres and they often play animated features and other child-friendly movies. The Speciality Cinema and Grill (tel: 292-2135) and Liberty Theatre (292-7296) are in the city of Hamilton, Neptune Cinema (also 292-7296) is in Dockyard and Southside Cinema (297-2821) is in St. David’s. See the Bermuda Sun newspaper for movie listings. If food’s the priority, kid-friendly eateries include LaTrattoria, Rosa’s Cantina (both on the city) and The Speciality Inn, 10 minutes outside the city in Smith’s Parish. n
Photo by Terri Mello
Right next to famous Horseshoe Bay Beach is ‘baby beach’ — a tiny cove ideal for toddlers who enjoy a paddle.
Photo by www.moongateproductions.com
your kids plenty of space but small enough to easily keep an eye on them.
bermuda.com guide 39
sports & activities
Photo supplied
Short and spectacular: the Fairmont Southampton Resort boasts 18, par-3 holes.
Lots to do for active visitors If you’re the sporty type, you’ll find plenty to do on the island. Here’s a guide to what’s out there. See Bermuda.com for detailed listings. n Golf Bermuda has more golf courses per square mile than any other country in the world. Some clubs are private, but many hotels can arrange tee times for their guests. From an enticing par-3 executive course to a championship-level course given the seal of approval by the PGA of America, Bermuda is a golfer’s paradise. All our courses are blessed with beautiful scenery. Be sure to toss a camera in your golf bag. If you want to get the kids involved, there is a mini golf course in Southampton for young families (tel. 238-8800) and a brand new mini golf course at Dockyard (see next page). Our golf courses: Belmont Hills, Warwick, tel. 236-6400 Fairmont Southampton, tel. 239-6952 Mid-Ocean, Hamilton Parish, tel. 293-0330
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Ocean View (9 holes), Devonshire, tel. 295-9092 Port Royal, Southampton, tel. 234-0974 Riddell’s Bay, Warwick, tel. 238-1060 Rosewood Tucker’s Point, Hamilton Parish, tel. 298-6970
n Tennis Most courts are attached to hotels. Another option is the government-run tennis stadium, which has clay and hard courts. It’s on Marsh Folly Road, a 10-minute walk from Hamilton centre. Open 8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-7pm Sat-Sun. Courts are $10 an hour (double it under floodlights). Tel: 292-0105.
n Deep sea fishing With the deep ocean just offshore, Bermuda offers world class fishing. Lots of pros are ready to take you out — among them, Baxter’s Reef Fishing, tel: 234-2963.
sports
Babe Ruth golfed in Bermuda n Water sports You can rent everything from kayaks, Boston whalers and windsurfers to Hobie Cats and Jet Skis. Bermuda is the shipwreck capital of the Atlantic and a mecca for SCUBA divers. See Bermuda.com for full listings See pages 43 & 44 for snorkelling and pages 46 & 47 for shipwrecks.
n Cycling Our coastal roads and the route of the old railway trail are great for bikers. You can hire bicycles at Smatt’s Cycle Livery, tel: 295-1180 and Oleander Cycles tel. 2950919. Will cost you roughly $50 a day.
n Bowling For a rainy day or a family evening out, have fun at Warwick Lanes in Warwick, tel: 236-5290.
Hartley’s Reef Safari Having some advantages over scuba diving and many over snorkeling, helmet diving is the safest and easiest way to explore the marine environment. The undersea walk was started by Bronson Hartley in the 1930s. Off Somerset, his son Gregory continues the tradition of training and taming fish in the wild. Hold Leroy the snapper or Barack the grouper and see Diana the angelfish swim through a hoop. The helmet works like a glass turned upside down. Your head stays dry, and you can safely wear glasses or contact lenses. Just breathe, walk and have fun. Tel: 234-2861. www.hartleybermuda.com. hartley@logic.bm
Mini golf a big new attraction By Don Burgess | It’s nice to claim to be the best in the world, but not everyone can back it up. Hogan Lindgren designed a mini golf course in Denmark which drew international acclaim. But he says the one he designed right here on the island — Bermuda Fun Golf — is even better. “The world championship of mini golf was played there in Denmark,” he told us, “and they voted it the best mini golf course in the world — but this is best. Bermuda can be proud to say it has the best mini golf course in the world.” Owner John Burcher said opening up a fun golf course has been a dream of his for five years. The course features 18 holes; six are based on Mr Burcher’s favourite holes in Bermuda, six on famous holes in the US and the final six on holes in Scotland.
Photo by Kageaki Smith
Internationally renowned designer Hogan Lindgren said Bermuda Fun Golf is probably the best mini golf course in the world.
Mr Lindgren said each hole is an homage to the original hole rather than an exact miniature: “But if you play the hole, you can recognize it from the original,” he says. Bermuda Fun Golf: www.fungolf.bm. E-mail: info@fungolf.bm. Tel: 400-PUTT bermuda.com guide 41
beaches
Photo by www.moongateproductions.com
Small but idyllic: John Smith’s Bay, in Smith’s Parish, is a perfect family beach.
Our glorious Top Ten Breathtaking beaches are Bermuda’s most enduring attraction, from aquamarine pools and sandy bays to the famous pink sand of the south shore. Pack your sunscreen, hats, towels and and use our guide to hit one or more of the island’s top ten beaches. 10 John Smith’s Bay: Off the beaten track in Smith’s parish, this popular locals’ beach is a little less crowded than the south shore destinations but still boasts soft sand and great swimming and snorkelling. The Harrington Hundreds grocery store is just a few minutes away by moped if you want to make your own picnic. L, B 9 Cooper’s Island Nature Reserve: A tiny peninsula on the eastern edge of the island, only recently opened to the
public, Cooper’s Island is actually a series of small coves connected by almost a mile of walking trails. The larger but less picturesque (it’s all relative) Clearwater Beach is right next door. B 8 West Whale Bay: Named for the humpback whales that migrate past Bermuda in April and May each year, this is as good a place for whale watching as anywhere on the island. The grassy cliff-top that borders this Southampton beach is a great spot for a picnic.
KEY: Bathrooms - B Rentals - R Café - C Lifeguard - L 42 bermuda.com guide
beaches
Sand glimmers pink at twilight 7 Snorkel Park: A great beach for families, out west in vibrant Dockyard. There are inflatables for the kids to rent, great snorkelling for dad and beach loungers for mum. L, B, C, R 6 Warwick Long Bay: To truly grasp the beauty of Bermuda’s south shore, walk the length of Warwick Long Bay and clamber across the rocks, or take a detour over the sand dunes to Jobson’s Cove and Chaplin Bay. On a quiet day you will see more Longtails than fellow tourists. B, R (seasonal) 5 Shelly Bay: A parents’ dream beach, Shelly Bay boasts warm, shallow water, a soft sandy bottom and backs on to a playground and sports field. A favourite for kids and novice swimmers — and close to the bus stop. C, B 4 Church Bay: Swim with shoals of brightly coloured parrot fish among the pristine coral reef that pierces the water just yards from shore at this small south shore bay, widely revered as Bermuda’s
best beach for snorkellers. R, B 3 Elbow Beach: A half-mile of white sand boasting stunning views of the Atlantic, Elbow Beach, in Paget, is a playground for joggers, kiteboarders, beach volleyball players and SCUBA divers. There’s even a shipwreck within swimming distance of shore. You can join in the fun or just hire a deckchair and sit back and watch. C, B, R 2 Tobacco Bay: Famous for its stunning volcanic rock formations — natural sculptures that emerge from the glassy water — this picturesque, sheltered cove is also a snorkellers’ dream. A short walk from the old town of St. George. C, B, R 1 Horseshoe Bay: A crescent of soft, pink sand, lapped by clear blue water, fringed by sand dunes and bordered by sandstone cliffs, garnished with swaying palms — Horseshoe, in Southampton Parish, is the a must for every Bermuda visitor. C, B, R, L n
Photo by www.moongateproductions.com
Ranked No.6, Warwick Long Bay on the south shore is stunningly beautiful.
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snorkel
File photo
Snorkellers don’t have to go deep to enjoy our beautiful coral reefs.
Grab some fins! By Amanda Dale | Bermuda is a chain of more than 150 islands, islets and rocks, the coralline limestone peaks of an ancient volcano. Here lie some of the most pristine coral reefs in the world, setting the stage for world class snorkelling. The beautiful but shallow reefs are responsible for more than 400 shipwrecks, spanning five centuries. You can expect to swim in waters of 24-30 degrees Celsius with a visibility of 25 metres in the summer months (May to October). You will find superb snorkelling all the way around this 21 square mile island, but here are some of the best spots.
n Church Bay, Southampton It can be a little tricky wading in across the rocks, so wait until you are almost waist-
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deep in the water before you put your fins on. You will be rewarded by the variety of fish in and around the boiler reefs.
n Pompano Beach Club, Southampton Most South Shore beaches offer excellent snorkelling just a short hop from the water’s edge. But if you are feeling adventurous, hire a kayak at Pompano Beach Club and paddle out to the outer raft across the sandbar. Tie up and swim out to the adjacent reef to experience some beautiful snorkelling.
n Tobacco Bay, St George’s This sheltered, sandy bay is ideal for families. Its rocky outcrops and ancient coral formations are buzzing with marine life.
n Snorkel Park, Royal Naval Dockyard The park has a sheltered bay and is ideal for families. Under the walls of the fort you will find hard and soft corals, juvenile fish and maritime relics. There are musket balls
You might see a spotted eagle ray dating to the nineteenth century and cast iron cannons, dating from 1550 to 1800.
n The Constellation Snorkelling and dive operators can take you to Western Blue Cut to see two of our most famous shipwrecks. The Constellation was the inspiration for Peter Benchley’s novel The Deep, which was made into a film in 1977. This 192 ft four-masted schooner (built in 1918) served as a cargo vessel in World War II and was en route from New York to Venezuela in 1943 when she was swept onto the reefs and sank, in ten metres of water. Her cargo included bags of cement, cases of Scotch whisky and thousands of drug ampoules, many containing opium and morphine. The ampoules have all been removed but you can still see other relics such as china cups, ceramic tiles and bottles.
n The Montana Just 15 metres from the Constellation lies the Montana, built to run the Union blockade
snorkel
of the Confederate states in the US Civil war. The 236ft paddle wheel steamer sank in 1863 and now sits in three pieces with her bow relatively intact and her paddle wheels and forward boiler still discernable.
n The Vixen HMS Vixen was a Royal Navy gunboat, scuttled in 1896 to block a narrow channel off Daniels’s Head, Somerset, to prevent possible torpedo attacks. She sits in eight metres of water with a protruding bow and is home to many different species of fish. This popular site is accessible only by boat. Fed by the waters of the Gulf Stream, Bermuda has many of the fish species found in the western Atlantic and Caribbean, including parrotfish (stoplight, blue and midnight varieties), yellowtail snapper, coneys, bluehead and creole wrasse, rock beauties, the puddingwife, squirrelfish, foureye butterflyfish, damselfish, sergeant majors, trumpetfish and spiny lobster. If you’re lucky, you’ll spot a turtle. n
bermuda.com guide 45
shipwrecks
Gibb’s Hill Lighthouse was only the 37
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34 39
35
40
41
36
38
42
Atlantic Ocean
43 44 1
45
2
Royal Naval Dockyard
Somerset Long Bay Mangrove
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t in Po lty ish an rk mira p Spanish S Pa Ad se u Point Hoark P
Bay ’
4
GREAT SOUND
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Hawkins Island
50
h
ac Be
25. Beaumaris Castle 26. Collector 27. Iristo 28. Elda 29. Taunton 30. Eagle 31. Manilla Wreck 32. Cristobal Colon 33. Curlew
10
y Ba
ow
Both the old and more recent wrecks, scattered throughout the 200-squaremile reef system that surrounds the island, are protected by law against any unauthorized interference. The more popular dive sites are easily accessed from the island by boat, with an average depth of between 30 17. Katherine 18. Pelinaion 19. Zovetto or Rita Zovetto 20. Sea Venture 21. Wychwood 22. Colonel William G. Ball 23. Richard P. Buck 24. Avenger
ry
ng ay eB
46 bermuda.com guide
Elb
10. Minnie Breslauer 11. Pollockshields 12. Apollo 13. Kate 14. Grotto Bay Barges 15. Warwick 16. H.M.S. Cerberus
g
Drydock Ramona H.M.S. Vixen Minerva Hunters Galley Mary Celeste Virginia Merchant 8. King 9. Hermes
n Lo
There are some four hundred wrecks to be found off Bermuda. The earliest date from the first quarter of the 16th century when the island became a landmark for Spanish ships sailing back to Spain from the New World.
ck
Elbow Beach Coral Beach 7 6 Surfside Beach 9 8 Marley Beach oe
Bermuda’s shipwrecks
DEVONSHIR PARISH
Hungry Bay ap Gr
WARWICK PARISH sh rse Hoy Ba
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Chu
ay rch B
i rw Wa y Ba
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PAGET PARISH
Hu
Rockaway LITTLE SOUND
SOUTHAMPTON PARISH
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
CITY OF HAMILTON HAMILTON HARBOUR
Belmont
ey Whitnay B hale W t s We Bay
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PEMBROKE PARISH
SANDYS PARISH
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E
S
3
51
N
W
second cast iron lighthouse ever built. 31
Stories of the sea
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28
Five must-visit Bermuda wrecks: 26
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25 24 22 Toba cco B Achilles’ Bay ay Fort St. Catherine ST GEORGE’S 23 PARISH Martello Tower Coney Island Airport
Bailey's Bay
Crystal Caves
15
Castle Island Tucker's Town
Smiths Parish 16 Sm hn Jo ay B
18
17
13
11
and 50 feet. Listed here are some of the better known wrecks, highlighted in the map above. Note that some wrecks are known by two, three or even four different names. For further information, visit the scuba diving pages on our website: www.bermuda.com. 34. Madiana 35. Alert 36. San Pedro 37. Caraquet 38. Mark Antonio 39. Montana 40. Lartington 41. Constellation 42. Santa Ana 43. L’Herminie
n The Pelinaion (18) – This Greek steamer became a victim of WWII. The British had blacked out St. David’s lighthouse to stop the Germans from spying on Bermuda. But the ship crashed on the reef, where it still lies scattered. n The Cristobel Colon (32) — This Spanish luxury liner is the biggest of Bermuda’s wrecks at 499ft long. Its remains are spread across the North Shore reef. n The Hermes (9) – Extremely popular among divers as it is one of the few wrecks in Bermuda that remains fully intact. It lies in 80 foot of water off the South Shore. n The Constellation (41) – Jaws author Peter Benchley based his follow-up novel ‘The Deep’ around this wreck, which sank on the South Shore carrying a cargo of morphine and whisky to Venezuela during WWII.
's ith
12
Fort Popple rwate r Bea ch Turt 19 le Ba y
Clea
CASTLE HARBOUR Nonsuch Island
Shell y HARRINGTON B Beaacy SOUND h Flatts Bridge Devil's Hole
SMITH’S PARISH
Gate s’ Ba y Town of St. Georges Gates 21 Fort Smith’s 20 Island Fort Cunningham
14
HAMILTON PARISH
HIRE H
y
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shipwrecks
44. Frenchman 45. Lord Amherst 46. Darlington 47. Mussel 48. San Antonio 49. Blanch King 50. Caesar 51. Airplane 52. North Carolina 53. Triton Ferry
n The H.M.S. Vixen (3) – If you don’t want to take on the challenge of scuba diving, the Vixen lies half submerged in shallow waters off Daniel’s Head, Somerset, and is easily accessible by snorkellers.
Local dive operators Triangle Diving, Grotto Bay, near the airport, Tel: 293-7319 www.trianglediving.com Fantasea Bermuda, Albuoy’s Point, Hamilton, Tel: 236-1300 info@fantasea.bm Blue Water Divers, Robinson’s Marina, Somerset, Tel: 234-1034 & Elbow Beach Hotel 232-2909 www.divebermuda.com
Don’t want to get wet? Visit the Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute in Hamilton, the National Museum of Bermuda in Dockyard and the replica of the Deliverance in St. George’s.
bermuda.com guide 47
fishing
iStock photo
Whether you’re a novice or a veteran, our expert fisherman will maximize your chances of scoring a spectacular catch.
You can land a beauty! For novice fishermen looking for an exciting family day out or experienced anglers hoping to hook a monster marlin, the deep ocean surrounding Bermuda is a fertile hunting ground. More than 20 charter firms offer day-trippers the chance to try their luck. Two volcanic sea-mounts, Challenger and Argus Banks, several miles offshore, are the focus of attention for the small fleets of boats that idle out of pretty harbours every morning. Here, the powerful Atlantic currents push baitfish over steepling banks, attracting swarms of big-game fish. Schools of tuna and wahoo offer rich pickings for anglers of all abilities. Other fish often caught on deep sea trips include amberjack, mahi mahi, bonito, little tunny and rainbow runner. Local fishermen know their turf and will guide you to the best spots. Some will let you keep your catch, but they are not obliged to do so. Boats are equipped with rods, tackle, bait, life-saving gear and toilets. Typically you’ll supply your own refreshments. Charter prices for deep-sea outings, usually around $800 for a 48 bermuda.com guide
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