gu覺de JANUARY 2013
Feel the heat Poncho Sanchez & Latin Jazz Band in performing arts festival page 42
Shopping, sightseeing, dining, culture
Free FREE
contents
Photo supplied
The Reduced Shakespeare Company will spoof sports at performing arts festival – see page 42
n Arts
n Shopping
overview 12 & 13 galleries & shows 48
flex the plastic 28-35
n Events
tours etc 40-48
calendar 41-48
n Food & drink best places to eat 37-39
n Nature National Parks 10 & 11 our harmless critters 14
n People minister’s welcome 4
n Practicalities health, customs etc 25-27
n Religion Catholic services 16 & 17 our scenic churches 18 & 19 Cornerstone Bible | Fellowship 43
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n Sightseeing n Sports & activities golf, tennis, fishing etc 22-24
n Transportation airlines 25 bus info 25 bus schedule 26 ferry info 26 taxis 27
n Weather what to expect 27
Co-publisher & advertising manager: Lisa Beauchamp, lbeauchamp@bermudasun.bm Tel: 278-1850 Co-publisher & editor-in-chief: Tony McWilliam, tmcwilliam@ bermudasun.bm Tel: 278-1860 Design & Layout: Creative Circle Media Consulting Accounts: Donna Vesely Tel: 278-1831 Delivery: Lloyd Somner Cover photo: Poncho Sanchez. Photo supplied. See page 42 Contributors: Amanda Dale, Andrew Dobson, Jack Garstang, Lisa Greene, Simon Jones, Sarah Lagan, Jamie Macmillan, Kageaki Smith, Charles Webbe Special thanks to the Bermuda Dept. of Tourism. bermuda.com guide Published by The Bermuda Sun a subsidiary of MediaHouse © Bermuda.com Ltd. Printed by Island Press Ltd. Web: www.bermuda.com Information and services contained in the guide are believed to be correct at the time of printing; however, prices and times may be subject to change without notice. The Bermuda Sun Limited makes every effort to ensure accuracy but accepts no liability for errors or omissions. Reproduction in whole or in part by permission of the publisher only.
welcome to bermuda On behalf of the Government and the people of Bermuda, welcome to our island paradise. With breathtaking pink sand beaches, iridescent turquoise waters and friendly people, our island retreat will seduce your senses and bring a new meaning to the word vacation. Bermuda has so much more to offer and experience. During your stay, we hope you discover our rich history, vibrant culture and indulge in our island’s exceptional natural beauty. In addition, we have a thriving arts community and an abundance of activities to keep you entertained. Bermuda is also known the world over for its distinctive historical architecture and we hope that during your stay you will have an opportunity to explore some of our finest features, such as the 17th century Town of St. George, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the City of Hamilton and the Royal Naval Dockyard. Bermuda is where rich history, diverse cultures, exceptional natural beauty and romance meet. For decades our shores have delighted, inspired, pampered and rejuvenated thousands of visitors. However you choose to enjoy your vacation, I am certain you will have a memorable experience. Once again, it is my pleasure to welcome you to Bermuda. I trust you will have a wonderful stay and we look forward to welcoming you back to our shores very soon. Sincerely, The Hon. Wayne L. Furbert, JP, MP Minister of Business Development and Tourism
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A division of A.S. Cooper & Sons, Ltd. 83 - 85 Front Street, Hamilton HM BX Tel.: 441.292.5805
quick break
photo by kageaki smith
A round of golf is a must even if you’re only here a few days and on our scenic island, every course is a seaside links.
Bermuda in five days BY CHARLES WEBBE | Whether it be golfing, tennis, fine dining or pampering that tops your priorities, all of these and more can be leisurely enjoyed within a five-day stay on the charming, 22-square mile gem we call Bermuda. The famous Port Royal Golf Course has been upgraded for the PGA. But you don’t have to be a pro to play it. The same goes for Mid-Ocean Club and Tucker’s Point. They are private clubs, 8 bermuda.com guide
but introductions can be made. Belmont Hills and the Fairmont Southampton Resort offer other golfing options. (See more about golf on page 24). When it comes to dining there are lots of options. Great food is easy to come by in Bermuda but it’s worth making the effort to seek out authentic, local eateries. If you are in search of no-frills Bermudian grub, the Black Horse Tavern in St. David’s serves succulent fish fresh from the sea (the owner is a fisherman). In stark contrast, enjoy an upmarket dining experience at the scenic Waterlot Inn in Southampton or at Fourways Inn in Paget, an elegant establishment that oozes olde worlde charm and features a pianist with a repertoire as broad as the menu. If, after all your feasting and sunworshipping, you feel the urge to chill out in a spa, Willow Stream at the Fairmont Southampton Resort, Cambridge Beaches and Elbow Beach all offer unparalleled luxury. And your concierge can point you in the direction of many other spa locations across the island. In between all these sybaritic joys you can fit in some touring or sailing — they’re all here. Five days in beautiful Bermuda is just enough time to have your fill of fun — and yet leave with a personal pledge to return for more. n
Five days is just enough time to have your fill of fun
parks Our splendid National Parks
Photo by Kageaki Smith
Explore the secluded paths of Hog Bay Park in Somerset.
By Lisa Greene | Our National Parks, spread over 108 sites and 1,609 acres, range from tiny, secluded gardens to long, beautiful beaches with pink sand. Some favourites of mine include the 16-mile long Railway Trail, Hog Bay Park, Spittal Pond Nature Reserve and Ferry Point Park. Many sections of the Trail provide an ‘off the beaten track’ experience for walkers, joggers or those on bicycles. A paved stretch runs for 10 bermuda.com guide
nearly two miles from Somerset Village to Somerset Bridge, with glimpses into backyards and views of bays and the Great Sound. Explore paths off the trail leading to Gilbert Nature Reserve, the large Heydon Trust Estate (with its exquisite little chapel), panoramic Scaur Hill Fort, and down to the water’s edge. Rock cuts from the original railway, and thick vegetation, create welcome shady areas. Less than a mile further south along the Middle Road from Somerset Bridge is the 32-acre Hog Bay Park, one of our best birding locations. Walking paths skirt agricultural fields and meander through woodlands and hillsides before arriving at a secluded shoreline with spectacular views. Spittal Pond, a 64-acre reserve, on the south shore in Smith’s Parish, is our best birding spot. Here the rugged shoreline and woodland surrounding a brackish pond support a large variety of migratory and resident species. Clamber over the rocks and look for Sally lightfoot crabs at the water’s edge or parrotfish feeding in surging water, and watch waves ‘boiling’ over reefs. Along this shore you can also find ‘Portuguese Rock’, bearing a carved inscription from visiting sailors dated 1543. Out east is Ferry Point Park, a scenic 64 acres perfect for walking, jogging or cycling, with historic features such as the Martello Tower, Ferry Island Fort and an old lime kiln. These are just a few of the many locations maintained by our Government’s Department of Parks; it’s your turn now to discover your favourite. n
arts
Photo by Kageaki Smith
A striking stature in the Botanical Gardens celebrates John Lennon, who wrote songs here during a 1980 summer visit from New York, not long before he died.
Check out our arts scene By Sarah lagan | Bermuda’s art scene is diverse and vibrant. Our small island is packed with art galleries, studios and museums. Our art hot spots include: n The Bermuda National Gallery Home to three permanent exhibitions — The African Collection, The Bermudian Collection and The European Collection. There is also a rotation of work by local and international artists. The Eyes On The World, Eyes On Bermuda show features photojournalism about human rights. City Hall & Arts Centre, Hamilton. 295-9428.
n Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art Masterworks prides itself as “the pre-
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eminent museum of Bermuda Art” and Bermuda is the subject for many of its works. It hosts the annual Charman Prize and has an Artist in Residence programme that sees international artists offer their interpretations of island life. There’s a gift shop and café. Botanical Gardens, Paget. Tel. 299-4000. www.bermudamasterworks.com
n Bermuda Society of Arts Known affectionately as “the people’s gallery”, BSoA features everything from professional artwork to the work of schoolchildren and prisoners. It has four separate galleries and plays host to 50 shows each year. City Hall & Arts Centre, Hamilton. Tel. 292-3824
n National Museum of Bermuda Well worth a visit for those interested
arts
Georgia O’Keefe painted in Bermuda in our history, culture and heritage. Exhibitions and displays range from Bermuda’s Defence Heritage, The Slave Trade and The Royal Navy Collections. Shipwreck Island celebrates the island’s stature as the shipwreck capital of the Atlantic. Local artist Graham Foster’s epic mural, depicting the history of Bermuda, is not to be missed. Dockyard. Tel. 2341418. www.bmm.bm
n Bermuda Arts Centre at Dockyard If you are lucky, you might meet some of Bermuda’s artists who are residents at the Arts Centre in Dockyard, including Jonah Jones, Christopher Marson, Christopher Grimes and Chesley Trott. Also enjoy the ever-changing collections by the Plein Air Painters of Bermuda, They’ll give you a good feel for Bermuda’s stunning natural landscapes. Dockyard. Tel. 234-2809. www.artbermuda.bm
Masterworks The Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art is home to an impressive collection of over 1,200 pieces of Bermuda inspired art. Renowned artists such as Georgia O’Keefe, Marsden Hartley, Winslow Homer and Albert Gleizes are part of the Permanent Collection and there is a constantly evolving showcase of local artists. The museum shop sells prints and original local art, and Homer’s Café serves a wide selection of baked goods, lunch items and even afternoon tea. To learn about Bermuda’s culture and history there is no better stop on your itinerary than The Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art. Museum is accessible with ramps and an elevator. Open Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm. $5 admission, free for members and children under 12. Closed public holidays.
Sunday 11:00am - 4:30pm
The Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art is home to an impressive collection of over 1,200 pieces of Bermuda inspired art; some by such famous names as Georgia O’Keeffe, Winslow Homer and Albert Gleizes. The museum shop sells prints and original local art; a perfect keepsake to take home! To learn about cultu and history there is no Bermuda’s culture better stop on your vacation itinerary.
Located in the beautiful Botanical Gardens, five minutes from Hamilton, the museum is on three major bus rou tes (1,2,&7) and is clearly sign posted from all entrances.
Sunday 11:00am - 4:30pm Sandwiches, paninis, salads, quiche, soup, hot lunches, baked goods, specialty coffees, afternoon tea and even picnic baskets to go! We also offer a range of bakery products that are gluten free
04 299.4000 bermuda.com guide 13
wildlife
Bugs, birds and frogs By ANDREW DOBSON | Like most
other things in Bermuda — groceries, cars, shipwrecked settlers — our wildlife was largely imported, either accidentally or on purpose. There are hundreds of feral cats and feral chickens – but no feral dogs. We have a few rats, of course, but no snakes. Spiders are abundant but generally harmless. The occasional poisonous spider arrives on imported lumber but they rarely bother people. Mosquitoes aren’t a problem and there are few bugs to worry about. To find the mildly venomous nine-inch centipede, you would have to turn over a lot of rocks in St. David’s Parish. Try to avoid the Portuguese man-owar, a purple jellyfish that sports long tentacles and causes a painful sting. Sharks are rare in Bermuda waters and there are no records of shark attacks. One of our most intriguing creatures is the common whistling frog. Their ‘gleep-
Photo by Tony McWilliam
Small but loud: One of our famous tree frogs
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Photo by Tony McWilliam
White herons are among the birds you might see at Spittal Pond in Smith’s Parish.
gleep’ chorus is particularly vigorous after rainfall on warm evenings and you’ll be amazed that a frog little bigger than your thumbnail can be so audible. Easier to spot on wet evenings are enormous cane toads, introduced to control cockroaches. Birds are plentiful; about 375 species have been recorded in Bermuda and 20 are resident. Many migrate through the island and more than 100 species are present during the winter, including a variety of ducks, herons and egrets. For more, visit www.audubon.bm n
DISCOVER A PART OF BERMUDA
THAT’S OVER
30
MILLION YEARS OLD
AND STILL GROWING Visit www.caves.bm for more details. The Crystal Caves are a world of delicate splendour with magnificent crystal stalactites and stalagmites, each surrounding a clear lake. Come see the Crystal & Fantasy Caves, an exquisite world that Mother Nature began over 30 million years ago. HOW TO FIND US: BUS ROUTES 1/3/10/11 | JUST OFF WILKINSON AVE 8 Crystal Cave Road, Hamilton Parish CR 04, Bermuda | 441-293-0640 | info@caves.bm
The Roman Catholic Diocese of Hamilton in Bermuda Bermuda’s Roman Catholic Diocese began as a mission of the Archdiocese of Halifax with the laying of the first cornerstone for a Catholic Church in 1858. The Island’s Catholic Church flourished. In 1967 the Diocese of Hamilton Bermuda was established. Bermuda was served by the Diocesan clergy of Halifax until 1953, after which pastoral responsibility transferred to the Congregation of the Resurrection. The Resurrectionist Fathers continue to serve our Catholic Community today. All Bishops have been members of that same Congregation including its current Bishop, Robert Joseph Kurtz, CR, who was ordained on 15 September 1995. According to the 2010 Census the Catholic Church is the second largest church in Bermuda with approximately 9,500 members. There are six parishes which are: St. Theresa’s Cathedral on Cedar Avenue in Hamilton, St. Joseph’s in Somerset, St. Anthony’s on Middle Road, Warwick; St. Michael’s on South Road, Paget, St. Patrick’s on South Road, Smith’s and Stella Maris in the Town of St. George. The Roman Catholic Diocese sponsors Bermuda’s only Catholic school, Mount Saint Agnes Academy (MSA), from which many of Bermuda’s socio-economic community leaders have graduated. A Kindergarten through Gr12 private school, MSA provides quality education to approximately 400 students that is enhanced by their experiencing the lived values of the Catholic Faith and Culture. The St. Vincent de Paul Society is the registered Roman Catholic Charity that supports people in need regardless of ethnic, religious, racial or social background. Visit www.catholicbermuda.org or “LIKE” us on Facebook at Catholic Diocese of Bermuda. See Full Mass Schedule on Next Page
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CATHEDRAL OF ST. THERESA, Cedar Avenue, Hamilton, Bermuda
% 292-0607
ST. PATRICK’S CHURCH, South Road, Smith’s Parish
% 236-9866
rector: VACAT Rev. Julio M. Blazejewski, C.R., Episcopal Vicar for Portuguese Mass Schedule: Tuesday to Friday: 7:30 a.m. Wednesday to Friday: 12:10 p.m. Saturday: 6:30 p.m. Sunday: 8:30 a.m., 11:30 a.m. (Portuguese) 10:00 a.m. 6:00 p.m. Sacrament of Reconciliation: Saturdays: 5:30 p.m.
Pastor: Rev. Paul S. Voisin, C.R. Mass Schedule: Monday to Friday: Saturday: Sunday: Sacrament of Reconciliation: Saturdays:
8:00 a.m. 6:00 p.m. 9:00 a.m., 11:00 a.m. 5:00 - 5:30 p.m.
ST. MICHAEL’S CHURCH, South Road, Paget Parish
% 236-2166
ST. JOSEPH’S CHURCH, Somerset Road, Somerset
% 234-2321
Pastor: Rev. Vladimir Sobolewski, C.R. Mass Schedule: Tues., Wed. & Fri. 8:00 a.m. Thursday: 7:00 p.m. Saturday: 5:45 p.m. Sunday: 8:30 a.m., 11:00 a.m. Sacrament of Reconciliation: Saturdays: 5:00 - 5:30 p.m.
Pastor: Rev. W. Joseph Scollard, C.R. Mass Schedule: Sunday: Sacrament of Reconciliation: Anytime by Appointment
9:30 a.m.
ST. ANTHONY’S CHURCH, Middle Road, Warwick Parish
Pastor: Rev. W. Joseph Scollard, C.R. Mass Schedule: Tuesday to Friday: Saturday: Sunday: Sacrament of Reconciliation: Saturdays
STELLA MARIS CHURCH, Duke of Clarence Street, St. George’s
% 238-1784 7:45 a.m. 5:30 p.m. 7:45 a.m., 11:15 a.m.
Pastor: Rev. Joseph Morley Mass Schedule: Monday to Friday: Saturday: Sunday: Sacrament of Reconciliation: Before or after Daily Mass or by Appointment
5:15 p.m.
% 297-0512 9:00 a.m. 5:00 p.m. 9:00 a.m.
bermuda.com guide 17
faith
Photo by www.moongateproductions.com
Trinity Church, Hamilton Parish — one of our many picture-perfect places of worship.
Churches at every turn By Jack Garstang | To really get a feel for Bermuda, take a look at the island’s churches, or better still attend a service or a social event organised by a church. With such a high concentration of churches, and the wide range of beliefs catered for, visitors should have little trouble finding a church that suits them. Within this diversity of faith, Anglicanism has a strong presence, along with the African Methodist Episcopal Church, Roman Catholicism, Seventhday Adventists, Jehovah’s Witness’s, Methodists, Brethren Churches, and the Salvation Army. Church organizations often come together to help deal with social problems and are also active in relief aid abroad, with the Cornerstone Foundation one of the first to offer assistance in Haiti. Many of Bermuda’s older churches are like mini museums. Visit the 400 year-old St Peter’s Church in St George’s, the oldest Protestant church in the New World, and marvel at its elegant simplicity. 18 bermuda.com guide
faith
52% of worshippers here are Protestant In Pembroke is St John’s Church built in the 1620s; overlooking Harrington Sound is Holy Trinity Church, with a nave built around 1670; and St Anne’s Church in Southampton, one of the oldest parish churches in Bermuda, was started by our early settlers and rebuilt in 1717. Visit the neo-Gothic Bermuda Cathedral that dominates Hamilton and climb its tower to get panoramic views of the city and adjoining parishes. Also in Hamilton is St Theresa’s Cathedral: this Catholic church, built in the 1930s, has one of the largest weekly attendances on the island; and tiny Heydon Chapel, located in Sandys and set in a 44-acre park, is perfect for quiet reflection. There are so many charming churches
set in the unique Bermuda landscape. Among them, overlooking the ocean, is the beautiful St James Church in Sandys Parish. The island’s legacy of slavery is represented by The Cobbs Hill Methodist Church in Warwick — built in 1827 by slaves and free blacks as a place for them to worship and is on Bermuda’s African Diaspora Heritage Trail. It is people who really make a church, and the religious community here welcomes visitors. It is a good way to feel part of the community and to experience Bermuda on a level you never thought possible. Contact churches for opening times and for a complete list of places of worship visit bermuda.com. n
Photo by Tony McWilliam
St Peter’s Church — now known as Their Majesties Chappell — is an historic gem in St George’s.
bermuda.com guide 19
business brief
Photo by Christina White
Many businesses boast spectacular water views — including HSBC Bermuda on Front Street.
Our time-saving top tips It’s your first business trip to Bermuda. You’ve done the legal research, but as you gaze at the ocean from the comfort of your hotel room, you wonder where to start. Your local contact is knowledgeable about your business, but you hesitate to ask where you can find the best cup of coffee or those knee socks your dear uncle asked you to pick up. Here’s the inside dope, a mix of the factual and the utterly opinionated — in the city of Hamilton, unless otherwise indicated. n The wired island: Your hotel will get you online wirelessly, fast. If you’re in Hamilton, device-less but desperate, Internet cafés abound. Your BlackBerry, cellphone and 4G iPhone will all work here; peruse the ‘Locals’ section of Bermuda.com for service providers (all much the same). n My BlackBerry broke! Consider spending the day at the beach or, borrow a pal’s phone and see if Cellular One (700-7600) or Digicel (5005000) can help. 20
bermuda.com guide
Bermuda is a tax neutral jurisdiction. n Pizza pizza: Need to sit down for a bite, but pressed for time and don’t want a nine-course meal? La Trattoria (Washington Lane) serves memorable pizza. n Play by the rules: The Bermuda Monetary Authority (Victoria Street), might sound like it should be full of heavies, but it’s quite approachable and won’t (automatically) give ‘no’ for an answer. (Tel: 295-5278)
business brief
Capital G) will help. Take your passport and a recent utility bill. n Taking stock? If you need a stock price, the Bermuda Stock Exchange (Washington Mall) has a handy Bloomberg screen. n Lost? The Tourism Ministry (Church Street) has free maps and brochures, as does your hotel. Also try the Visitor Information Centre by the ferry terminal on Front Street.
n Bar none: In Bermuda, the CEOs of the big re/insurance companies hang out at Little Venice or other wine bars on Bermudiana Road. Deals also get struck at Barracuda on Burnaby Hill and Port O’ Call on Front Street. Ease your way into the conversation.
n Need knee socks? Get with the programme. Find shorts and long socks at the English Sports Shop or A.S. Cooper (both on Front Street).
n Taxi! If you can’t find a cab for love nor money, walk down to the Fairmont Hamilton Princess (Pitts Bay Road), where they’ll be lined up.
n Staying on: For a weekend with your spouse that you’ll never forget, Cambridge Beaches (Somerset). n
n Java time! Common Ground (Chancery Lane) is a great spot to pause, read the paper, grab a snack.
n Teed off? Bermuda has more golf courses per square mile than anywhere else on earth. Port Royal is where the pros play. You can, too. Book early (tel: 234-0974). n Need a new gizmo for the laptop? You’ll find knowledgeable, friendly service and a good range of products at The Complete Office (Reid Street), Computer City (Victoria Street) and the iStore (Reid Street). n Art for art’s sake? Take a break from the boardroom and amble over to the Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art in the Botanical Gardens — simply the best. n Bank on Bermuda: Want to open a bank account? Any of the four local banks (HSBC Bank of Bermuda, Butterfield, Bermuda Commercial or
iStock photo (edited)
Done for the day? Enjoy our pristine waters.
bermuda.com guide 21
golf guide
Winston Churchill and President HOLE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
YDS 339 386 378 115 368 470 178 329 326
PAR 4 4 4 3 4 5 3 4 4
HOLE 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18
YDS 329 172 533 344 350 436 385 167 412
PAR 4 3 5 4 4 4 4 3 4
OUT
2,829
36
IN
2,829
34
OUT
2,971
36
TOTAL 6,017
70
BELMONT HILLS GOLF COURSE • 236-6060 Overlooking Bermuda’s famous turquoise sea Belmont Hills Golf Club features Bermuda’s first ever championship golf course combined with a first class teaching facility. Belmont Hills Golf Club recently received the Bermuda Gold, Best of Bermuda Awards for the “best place to play a round of golf.” HOLE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
YDS 438 567 148 458 380 370 517 213 383
PAR 4 5 3 4 4 4 5 3 4
HOLE 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18
YDS 350 443 383 235 393 412 235 507 410
PAR 4 4 4 3 4 4 3 5 4
OUT
3,474
36
IN
3,368
35
OUT
3,474
36
TOTAL 6,842
71
PORT ROYAL GOLF COURSE • 234-0974
Owned / Operated by the Bermuda Government
Port Royal is the longest course in Bermuda and offers a great challenge for all who play it. With its spectacular views of the ocean it is a course not to be missed by visitors. Bermuda’s finest course designed by Robert Trent Jones a must play whilst golfing in Bermuda. Contact: Darren Swan at dswan@ belmonthills.com 22 bermuda.com guide
what’s on golf guide
Eisenhower golfed on our island HOLE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
YDS 469 151 360 355 500 387 190 336 192
TOTAL 2,940
PAR 5 3 4 4 5 4 3 4 3 35
OCEAN VIEW GOLF COURSE • 295-9092 Owned / Operated by the Bermuda Government
This superbly challenging course has proven to be as competitive as it is picturesque. The elevated, central location offers wide North Shore vistas. With 18 tee positions, you’ll want to add a second nine to your conquest of the first. Website: http://oceanviewgolfbermuda.com/bermuda-golf-course. html HOLE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
YDS 152 145 142 178 183 110 133 149 126
PAR 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
HOLE 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18
YDS 135 113 128 126 211 141 174 150 188
PAR 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
OUT
1,318
27
IN
1,366
27
FAIRMONT SOUTHAMPTON GOLF CLUB • 238-8000
OUT
1,318
27
TOTAL 2,684
54
Bermuda’s only 18 hole par 3 course was designed by Theodore G. Robinson and was rated four-star by Golf Digest’s best places to play. The average playing time is under three hours, with every iron in the bag being called into play over a hilly, panoramic ocean-view layout.
bermuda.com guide 23
sports
Get your sports fix If you’re the outdoors type, you’ve chosen the right spot. Here’s a guide to what’s out there. See Bermuda.com for detailed listings. n Golf Some courses are private but many hotels can introduce their guests to clubs and arrange tee times. Our golf courses: Belmont Hills, Warwick, tel. 236-6400 Fairmont Southampton, tel. 239-6952 Mid-Ocean, Hamilton Parish, tel. 293-0330 Ocean View (9 holes), Devonshire, tel. 295-9092 Port Royal, Southampton, tel. 234-0974 Riddell’s Bay, Warwick, tel. 238-1060 Rosewood Tucker’s Point, Hamilton Parish, tel. 298-6970 St George’s, St George’s Parish, tel. 297-1200 Also see previous two pages.
n Tennis Most courts are attached to hotels but an-
other option is to play at the governmentrun tennis stadium, which has both clay and hard courts. It’s on Marsh Folly Road, a 10-minute walk from the centre of Hamilton. Open 8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-7pm Sat-Sun. Courts are $10 an hour (double it under floodlights). Tel: 292-0105.
n Water sports You can rent everything from kayaks, Boston whalers and windsurfers to Hobie Cats and jet skis. Bermuda is the shipwreck capital of the Atlantic and a mecca for SCUBA divers.
n Deep sea fishing With the deep ocean just offshore, Bermuda offers world class fishing. There are lots of pros ready to take you out.
n Rock climbing Test your skills on the Rock Climbing Wall at the Olympic Club, Dundonald Street, Hamilton. Open daily, tel: 292-4095.
n Bowling
Photo by Kageaki Smith
Tennis lessons are widely available on the island.
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For a rainy day or a family evening out, have fun at Warwick Lanes in Warwick, tel: 236-5290.
practicalities The Bermuda essentials Your concierge might know an awful lot, but you can’t take him to the beach. Here’s a handy list of things you ought to
n Airlines Air Canada Reservations: Tel: 1-888-247-2262. Flight Info: Tel: 293-1777. American Airlines Tel: 1-800-433-7300. Flight Info: Tel: 293-1420 AirTran 1-800-AIR-TRAN (247-8726) or 678-2547999. British Airways Reservations: Tel: 1-800-247-9297. Airport customer service: Tel: 293-1944. United/Continental Reservations: Tel: 1-800-864-8331. Flight Info: Tel: 293-3092. Delta Airlines Reservations: Tel: 1-800-221-1212. Flight Info: Tel: 1-800-325-1999. JETBLUE Tel: 1-800-JETBLUE (538-2583). Flight Info: Tel: 293-3608. U.S. Airways Reservations: Tel: 1-800-622-1015. Flight Info: Tel: 293-3073. WestJet | Tel: 1-888-WESTJET (937-8538).
n Airport L.F. Wade International Airport (tel: 2932470) is located in St. George’s at the east end of the island. Allow 30 minutes from the city of Hamilton by taxi. Check-in two hours before departure.
n Banks Normally open from 9am to 4pm, Mon-Fri. There are many ATMs across the island.
Photo by Kageaki Smith
Scooters are fun but be sure to pack rain jackets in case of showers.
ATMs dispense Bermuda dollars which are tied at par with US dollars.
n Buses All bus routes serving Hamilton arrive and leave the Bus Terminal on Washington Street. (See page 26 for schedule). Cash fares require exact change. Dollar bills are not accepted. Adult cash fare is $3 up to 3 zones, $4.50 for longer journeys. Tokens are $2.50 for 3 zone trips and $4 for longer trips. Transportation passes are available: one-day pass $12, two days $20, three days $28, four days $35, seven days $45 or one month, $55. For children (aged 5-16) cash fare is $2 and transportation passes range from $6 per day up to $22.50 for seven days. Children under five ride free. Tokens, tickets and passes can be used on buses or ferries and can be bought at the ferry terminal, the central bus terminal, hotels, post offices and the Dockyard Visitor Information Centre. (The fares listed here, correct at press time, are subject to change). Tel: 292-3851 • info@ptb.bm
bermuda.com guide 25
practicalities
Use pink bus stops for travel into Hamilton
n Business Hours
n Currency & Credit Cards
Stores normally open from 9am to 5pm Monday to Saturday. Many grocery stores open 1-5pm on Sunday, most other stores are closed on Sundays.
The Bermuda dollar is equal in value to the U.S. dollar; both are legal tender. Traveller’s cheques and credit cards are accepted at most shops, restaurants and hotels.
n Consulate
n Dress Code
The U.S. Consulate is located on Crown Hill, 16 Middle Road, Devonshire, tel: 295-1342. Open Mon to Fri 8am - 4:30pm. Consular services are provided on an appointment basis only. For details, visit the Consulate’s website: http://hamilton.usconsulate.gov or contact HMLUSCitizenQuery@state.gov. For after-hours life or death emergencies for American citizens only, contact the duty officer at (441) 335-3828. • Honorary Consuls for other countries are also represented in Bermuda — see the telephone directory for listings.
The dress code in Bermuda is conservative. Bathing suits and bare chests are not acceptable, except (for men) at beaches and pools. Casual wear is acceptable in restaurants at lunchtime. Some upscale restaurants require men to wear a jacket in the evening. Check the dress requirements when making reservations.
n Country Code U.S. & Canada — dial 1 plus area code plus no. U.K. — dial 011 plus 44 plus area code plus no. Caribbean — dial 1 plus area code plus seven digits.
n Emergency Call 911 and specify whether you need police, the fire service or an ambulance.
n Ferries All ferries depart from the terminal on Front Street, Hamilton. Regular ferries cross Hamilton Harbour and faster catamarans visit Somerset and Dockyard. Transportation tickets, tokens and passes valid for buses and ferries are available at the
Bus Schedule
Route Fare Leaving Hamilton’s Central Number Zone Bus Terminal (time past the hour)
Airport Aquarium Belmont Hotel Botanical Gardens Crystal Caves Dockyard Elbow Beach Gibbs Hill Lighthouse Grotto Bay Hotel Horseshoe Bay Beach Hospital Mangrove Bay (Somerset) National Museum of Bermuda Bermuda Perfumery John Smith’s Bay Beach Fairmont Southampton Resort Town of St. George
1, 3, 10, 11 10 11 8 1, 2, 7 1, 3 7, 8 2, 7 7 1, 3, 10, 11 7 1, 2, 7 7, 8 7, 8 1, 3, 10, 11 1 7, 8 1, 3, 10, 11
26 bermuda.com guide
14 00 3 00 3 00 3 00 14 14 00 3 00 3 00 14 00 3 00 3 00 14 00 14 00 14 00 3 3 00 14 00
15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 15 30 15 30
45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45
practicalities
and blue for heading away from the city ferry terminal, bus terminal, post offices and hotels. Cash is not accepted on the ferries. Scooters are allowed on some routes.
n Health No inoculations are required for Bermuda. There are no poisonous insects or mammals but visitors should be wary of the Portuguese man-of-war jellyfish that carries a painful sting. Guard against sunstroke and sunburn with hats, sunblock and plenty of water.
n Hospital King Edward VII Memorial Hospital (tel. 2362345) is a large, first-rate facility owned and operated by the Bermuda Government and located on Point Finger Road in Paget Parish. An associate of the American Hospital Association. Airlifts can be arranged to the U.S. or Canada.
n Internet Most hotels and many guest houses provide Internet access. Also, there are a handful of locations where you can go online in the city of Hamilton including the Bermuda Library on Queen Street and the Main Post Office on Parliament Street, where access is free. Public Internet access is also available in St. George’s and Dockyard. Many cafes provide wi-fi access to customers.
n Mail The General Post Office is located at 56 Church Street Hamilton (tel: 297-7893), with 12 sub-offices islandwide. Airmail leaves and arrives daily. Rates for airmail postcards to North America are 70¢; Europe 80¢; Africa, Asia, Australia and New Zealand 90¢.
n Religion Churches are ubiquitous here. Anglican, Catholic, African Methodist Episcopal and Seventh Day Adventist are among the major faiths. See the church listings in Friday’s Bermuda Sun newspaper.
n Taxis Cabs are safe and comfortable. Rates are controlled by law at $6.40 for the first mile
and $2.25 for each additional mile for 1-4 passengers. Rates increase after midnight, Sundays and public holidays with a 25% surcharge for 1-4 passengers and a 50% surcharge for 5-6 passengers. Taxis may also be hired for sightseeing tours at $40 per hour with a minimum of 3 hours.
n TV & Radio Three main local channels screen a nightly news bulletin — VSB (channel 11), ZBM (9) and ZFB (7). A government station, CITV, is on channel 2 and there’s a small handful of local radio stations. The quality of local programming varies considerably.
n Time Differences New York — one hour behind Bermuda Los Angeles — four hours behind London — four hours ahead Toronto — one hour behind Daylight Savings Time comes into effect from the second Sunday in March through to the first Sunday in November.
n Tipping In most cases, a service charge or gratuity has been added to the bill. Where the gratuity has not been added, 15% is about right.
n Water Tap water is safe to drink, unless you are instructed otherwise. Bermuda has no rivers, streams or reservoirs; all our water comes from rain or wells. Bermuda roofs are painted with a limestone wash that purifies the water as it trickles down into underground tanks. Electric pumps send the water up to the tap.
n Weather Bermuda’s sub-tropical climate is generally mild and humid, but summer and winter temperatures vary considerably. The average annual temperature is 76ºF. Monthly averages: January 65ºF, water 66ºF; April 67ºF, water 68ºF; July 80ºF, water 81ºF; October 75ºF, water 76ºF. In an average year we see rain on 171 days and sunshine on 200 days. n
bermuda.com guide 27
go shopping
Photo by Kageaki Smith
Pick a memorable gift from the prestigious jewellery collection at Astwood Dickinson.
Take home quality items that will last You’ve already proved you have good taste by choosing to visit Bermuda so it’s fitting that our stores exude quality. There are bargains to be had — you’ll find hefty price differentials with the U.S. on jewellery, watches, perfume, silverware, porcelain and crystal. And you’ll enjoy additional relief at the cash register — there’s no sales tax. Many stores are in the City of Hamilton, but the Clocktower Mall at Dockyard, on the western tip of the island, boasts quality gift stores and boutiques. And the historic town of St. George’s — at the east end of Bermuda — also has a lively shopping scene. Goods made here or produced exclusively for local stores include pottery, jewellery, paintings and prints, pottery, rum, honey, condiments, cedar ware, Bermuda shorts, scarves, fragrances and pillows. Browse the following listings for details. n 28 bermuda.com guide
Astwood Dickinson Home of the Original Bermuda Collection 18 kt Gold Jewellery handmade in Bermuda. Since 1904, Astwood Dickinson has built an outstanding reputation as the finest jewellery store in Bermuda. As exclusive agents for the world’s most prestigious jewellery collections and watches, Astwood Dickinson is the perfect place to find a lasting reminder of your Bermuda experience. In our on-site workshop we handcraft the Original Bermuda Collection. Here you will find beautiful 18 kt gold designs of the
Bermuda The Original
For over 30 years the Original Bermuda Collection has featured timeless designs based on the island’s unique flora, fauna, landmarks and traditions. This collection of locally made treasures will serve as a lovely remembrance of your “Bermuda Experience”. These original, 18 karat gold pieces are hand crafted in Bermuda and sold exclusively by Astwood Dickinson.
47 Front Street and 83-85 Front Street, Hamilton, Bermuda, 441.292.5805 www.astwooddickinson.com bermuda.com guide 29
go shopping
Locally made products are ‘Bermudiana’
Photo by Kageaki Smith
The Island Shop offers a range of colourful and unique gifts.
island’s unique flora, fauna, landmarks and traditions that make an everlasting remembrance of your Bermuda vacation. The Original Bermuda Collection is also available online at www.astwooddickinson.com . Astwood Dickinson also offers exclusive jewellery collections from Tiffany & Co., Hearts on Fire, Links of London and Baccarat. Our watch brands include Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Cartier, OMEGA, TAG Heuer, Gucci, and Tissot. 83-85 Front Street, Hamilton. Tel: 292-5805 Walker Arcade Boutique, Front Street, Hamilton. Tel: 292-4247
The Island Shop The Island Shop features exclusive and original hand-painted ceramics by Barbara Finsness that capture the colourful architectural and natural features of Bermuda. There are fine linens that feature her original embroidered designs and a huge array of different gift items. The Island Shop is a ‘must visit’ during your stay for gift selections found nowhere else in the world! They will gift-wrap or mail your purchases if desired. Check out their online store at
30 bermuda.com guide
www.islandexports.com. Winner of ‘The Best in Bermuda’ in retail giftware by The Bermudian magazine. Barbara features her original and printed artwork in the upper gallery of her Front Street store, and some can also be seen in her Southampton and St. George’s locations. Queen Street, Hamilton, tel: 292-5292. Somers Wharf, St. George’s, tel: 297-11514 Fairmont Hotel, Southampton, tel: 238-5999
Bermuda Blue & Bermuda Breeze Imagine standing on the shoreline of Bermuda’s pristine, pink sandy beaches. Breathe. Take in the sea air, the aroma of natural fruits & flowers all around us... Bermuda Blue and Bermuda Breeze fragrances embrace much that is uniquely Bermuda. Bermuda Blue delicately captures the natural citrus, jasmine and lotus in the air with a nuance of crisp sea spray. It dries down to a woody and vanilla base, managing to create a warm scent. Bermuda Breeze hints more of natural
go shopping
Bermuda’s capital city, Hamilton, is
fruits, such as wild berries & mandarin, with a touch of jasmine — creating a lovely fruity floral. Packaging reflects the brilliant blues and greens of the local water, the immense blue sky, amid a pink sandy beach — capturing the essence of this beautiful island paradise. Take home a piece of Bermuda. Take home Bermuda Blue and Bermuda Breeze. Available through select stores across the Island and on-line including: Gibbons Company, Reid St., Hamilton www.gibbons.bm Peniston Brown, St. George’s Perfume Shop, Dockyard Carole Holding, Front St., Hamilton Princess & Fairmont Southampton Brown & Co., Front St., Hamilton A.S. Cooper, Front St., Hamilton, branch and hotel stores www.ascooper.bm Distributed by P.D.L. Limited Tel: (441) 292-1710. infobb@pdl.bm
Bermuda Post Office Every year the Bermuda Philatelic Bureau
compiles a collection of commemoratives and arranges them into an attractive presentation package. This collection continues the Bermuda Post Office’s efforts to portray all facets of Bermuda’s heritage, culture and history. The Bermuda Philatelic Bureau also services orders for current issues of Bermuda’s commemorative and definitive stamps and, for the convenience of collectors, provides a standing order account service with a minimum deposit of thirty dollars. In addition, they maintain a mailing list to provide details of new stamp releases to customers. 56 Church Street, Hamilton. Tel: 297-7807
HERA Boutique Bermuda’s newest boutique features classic, stylish, quality clothing for women. Our clothing appeals to women of all ages who prefer updated, yet understated, clothing. Items from Europe and North America have been chosen for their versatility, functionality and longevity. Our European labels Continued on page 34
Photo by Kageaki Smith
For classy choices in women’s clothing, try Hera Boutique.
32 bermuda.com guide
antipode to Perth, Western Australia
jewellery
Photo by Kageaki Smith
Impeccable personal service has been a hallmark of Crisson Jewellers for many years.
Crisson Jewellers Crisson Jewellers embodies Bermuda’s finest and most cherished traditions. A family business since 1922, the Crisson name is synonymous with quality and value. The fabulous array of jewellery and watches reflect the style, sophistication and taste of our discerning customers. When you explore our exciting collections, we are sure you will agree that a visit to Crisson is the crowning moment of your Bermuda shopping experience. Along with the wonderfully eclectic collection of hand-selected pieces from all parts of the world, Crisson are Bermuda’s exclusive source for famous designers including David Yurman, Roberto Coin, Marco Bicego, John Hardy, Kabana, Nanis, Pandora, Marah Largo Larimar, and Rebecca . As for diamonds of distinction, Crisson has Bermuda’s largest collection of spectacular cuts from Cento, Memoire, A. Jaffe and Endless Diamonds. When it comes to timepieces, Crisson is definitely the place! Crisson are the
officially authorised Rolex retailers in Bermuda. You will also find Tag Heuer, Ebel, Raymond Weil, Movado, Tudor, Philip Stein, Christian Dior, Frederique Constant and Fendi. There are also collections from Seiko, Swiss Army, Citizen, Casio, Luminox, Fruitz, Rotary, Bering, Guess and Michael Kors. Crisson has a main store on Front Street in Hamilton, with another on Queen Street. There’s also a store in the Clocktower Mall at Dockyard. If you are staying in one of Bermuda’s major Hotels, you’ll find a Crisson store there as well. Each of these boutique-style stores features pieces selected from our main collections in Hamilton. The shopping experience is relaxed and intimate, and the quality, value and prices are the same whichever store you choose to visit. Crisson Jewellers, 16 Queen Street, 55 Front Street, Hamilton; Clocktower Mall, Dockyard, and all major hotels. Tel: 295-2351 • www.crisson.com
bermuda.com guide 33
shopping
Trivia goes here and here and here ELLIOT LAUREN, paperwhite, A’NUE LIGNE and J’ENVIE. Old Cellar, 47 Front Street, Hamilton Open Tues-Sat, 10am – 5pm, Wed 10am 4pm. Tel: 232-4372.
The Bermuda Perfumery
Photo by Kageaki Smith
Enjoy superlative customer service at The Bermuda Perfumery.
Continued from page 32
include Betty Barclay (Germany), Chez Chemise (Portugal) and Joyce Ridings (UK). We have Italian knitwear, trousers and leather goods plus a small selection of beautifully hand-made garments by L. Venturini of Florence. Our North American labels include
HERA BOUTIQUE
Bermuda’s newest Boutique for Ladies featuring classic and stylish European and American-made clothing and accessories. Tel. 441.232 .4372 Address The Old Cellar Walker Arcade
47 Front Street Hamilton, Bermuda HM 11 Open Tuesday through Saturday 10am -5:00pm Sunday 1pm -5pm (Seasonal) or by appointment outside of store hours
34 bermuda.com guide
The Bermuda Perfumery is located at historical Stewart Hall in the heart of St. George’s UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since 1928, The Bermuda Perfumery has been creating and manufacturing fine ladies and gentlemen’s fragrances under the brand Lili Bermuda. All the perfumes are made on the premises at Stewart Hall. The Perfumery welcomes visitors for a free tour of its operations and to sample its unique fragrances. During the summer of 2011, Lili Bermuda launched ‘Alegria’, a fragrance for women. Alegria was created to celebrate the rich cultural heritage of Bermuda. Alegria is a white chypre fragrance with a heart of frangipani, Bermuda Cedar, tuberose and magnolia. Alegria is modern, international and elegant. The Perfumery’s perfume collection also includes exclusive creations inspired by our beautiful Island. Modern women will love Coral, Pink, and Lily, and men will not want to leave Bermuda without a bottle of our famous fragrances 32° North and 64° West. The ‘Water Collection’, casual and unisex, will please the affluent and international traveller. The Perfumery is passionate about the art of perfume making and continues to innovate by using both traditional and modern techniques to produce exceptional perfumes. You are welcome to visit for a free tour of their operations and to sample their exclusive and rare perfumes. The Bermuda Perfumery, Stewart Hall, 5 Queen Street, St. George’s GE 05 Tel: 293-0627. Fax: 293-8810 1-800-527-8213 (toll free in US/Canada) info@bermuda-perfumery.com www.lilibermuda.com. Winter hours 10am to 4pm. Closed Sundays and Public Holidays.
made in bermuda Artist draws from nature to craft unique jewellery Bermudian artist Alexandra Mosher draws from the island’s natural beauty to create extraordinary and unique pieces of jewellery. She incorporates our pink coral sand into her handcrafted designs and uses sterling silver and gold to create delightful keepsakes. “I developed a love for craft at a very young age,” she told us, “often creating sculptures out of found objects.”
Alexandra studied jewellery design, fabrication and wax carving at The Fashion Institute of Technology in New York and launched her jewellery line in 2005. Her work is organic, elegant, highly collectible — and available at local outlets including AS Cooper (branches islandwide), as well as the April Branco Gallery and Sovereign Jewellers in Hamilton. Alexandra also ships internationally: see www. alexandramosher.com n
B E R M U D A
Bermuda Reef Collection
Hand crafted in Sterling silver & pink Bermuda sand
Available at Fine Bermuda Retailers and Galleries ¦ www.alexandramosher.com Resident artist at the April Branco Gallery, Washington Mall, Reid Street
bermuda.com guide 35
food & drink Eating out here is a treat Our island is small but it offers many dining options. Casual dress is acceptable at most restaurants, though some upscale Restaurant price ranges eateries require a jacket and tie. And per person $ Under $20 it’s best to make $$ $20-$40 reservations. The $$$ $40-$50 dollar signs (see key $$$$ Over $50 at left) offer a rough guide to prices. Visit www.bermuda. com for updated information.
Chatham House Bermuda’s leading specialty tobacco shop, established in 1895. Offering a marvellous selection of fine tobaccos and gifts for visi-
tors, satisfaction is guaranteed. Our extensive range includes English Briar pipes, and a selection of Havanas such as Punch, Partagas, Romeo y Julieta, Upmann, Montecristo, Cohiba and Bolivar — all at good savings over U.S. prices. Corner of Front and Burnaby Streets, Hamilton. Tel: 292-8422
Portofino For over 35 years we’ve been Bermuda’s favorite Italian restaurant. From a quick, delicious pizza, to homemade pastas and exotic dishes, all will delight in our bustling Italian atmosphere. Prices are right and we offer al fresco dining. Winner of the ‘City of Hamilton Food Festival 2012’ — People’s Choice Award for Best Restaurant. Trip Adviser Certificate of Excellence for 2012. Lunch is served weekdays 11:30am to 2pm. Dinner is served
bermuda.com guide 37
food & drink
Have you tried conch stew yet?
7 days a week 6pm to 11pm. Reservations recommended. Our take-out service is available Monday through Friday from 11am to 10pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 4pm to 10pm. Bermudiana Road, just off Front Street, Hamilton. Tel: 292-2375. Takeout: 296-0606. Lunch $, Dinner $$
Port O’Call Amid the hustle and bustle of front Street, Port O Call is an oasis of fine cuisine. The award winning contemporary menu features fresh local fish, homemade pastas and Bermuda produce - all at pleasantly modest prices. Our extensive Wine Spectator award winning wine list features over 40 fabulous wines “by the glass”. Dine inside or on our harbour view terrace. 87 Front Street, Hamilton. Tel: 295-5373. Lunch $$, Dinner $$$
Pearl Pearl is a welcome addition to Bermuda’s sushi scene. Our skilled chefs put to use their traditional Japanese training and worldwide experience. The result is a
38 bermuda.com guide
modern and creative menu that still satisfies the classic sushi experience. Sit at the counter, or enjoy our balcony with stunning views over Hamilton Harbour. Plasma screens let you watch our chefs creating your sushi. 87 Front Street, Hamilton. Tel: 295-9151. Lunch $, Dinner $$
Somerset Country Squire Enjoy lunch or dinner at Somerset Country Squire, overlooking Mangrove Bay, in Sandys Parish, while you chat with the locals about Bermuda. Local cuisine includes fish chowder, seafood, locally caught lobster when in season. Our Sunday Bermuda traditional “codfish and potato breakfast” has all the trimmings, banana, boiled egg with advocado pear (when in season). Whether you’re a party of one or a group, you’ll enjoy our service and food. Serving Monday through Wednesday from 3pm to 10pm, and Thursday through Sunday from noon to 9pm. 10 Mangrove Bay Rd., Somerset. Tel: 234-0105. Lunch $$ Dinner $$
F O U R
R E S T A U R A N T S
O N E
M O U T H W A T E R I N G
S T A N D A R D
Lunch: Monday - Friday Dinner: 7 days a week 87 Front Street, Hamilton Tel: 295-5373 www.portocall.bm Private Dining Room
Contemporary
Lunch: Monday - Friday Dinner: Monday - Saturday Closed: Sundays 87 Front Street, Hamilton (upstairs above Port O Call) Tel: 295-9150 www.pearl.bm Take Out Available
Sushi
Lunch: Monday - Friday Dinner: Monday - Saturday Closed: Sundays Chancery Lane, Hamilton Tel: 296-8546 www.bistroj.bm
Casual
Open: Monday - Saturday, 7:00am - Late Closed: Sundays 10 Dundonald Street, Hamilton Tel: 295-0857 www.ten.bm Take Out Available
CafĂŠ
culture
Photo by tony mcwilliam
Hypnotic rhythms and striking costumes make the Gombeys a hit wherever they go.
Meet the Gombeys By Simon Jones | Like the summery chime of the ice-cream truck, it’s an alluring sound with an almost mystical resonance that many islanders trace back to early childhood: the unmistakable, snare-and-kettle-drum lilt of the Gombeys. You’ll hear them before you see them and might find yourself being drawn closer, trance-like, when the distinctive 40 bermuda.com guide
drums and whistles issue their frenetic summons. There’s a dark side to their origin — Gombey masks were used to protect identities from wrathful slave owners — but their displays are overwhelmingly joyous and triumphant. Gombey dancing was originally performed only on Boxing Day and New Year’s Day — the two days when slaves were given a rest from their labours. But today they dance at all kinds of events, from parties and sports matches to street parades. Dancers are male, include young boys and perform in groups of 10-30, sporting brilliantly coloured, handmade costumes that evoke the plumage of tropical birds. A fusion of West African, Caribbean and American Indian influences, the movement was born when black slaves were first brought to the island. Dances, passed down through the generations, are sometimes based on Bible verses. The African Bantu word ‘Gombey’ is related to the Bahamian goombay, a similar dance tradition: It also means ‘rhythm’ and refers to a goat skin drum of African origin. The bodies and faces of the dancers are covered to avoid identification; owners did not like their slaves participating as Gombeys. Some carry whips or tomahawks and the captain of the troupe wears the most elaborate costume. Dazzling and energetic, Gombey dancing is one of Bermuda’s strongest and most beguiling cultural traditions. n
what’s on
A feast of culture
events
n New Year’s Day Jan 1 Watch out for Bermuda’s colourful Gombeys. They can appear anywhere, at any time. Just listen out for the pounding of the drums and whistle.
n New Year’s Brunch Jan 1 Harley’s Restaurant at the Fairmont Hamilton Princess, 12-4pm. $49 per person plus gratuities. Tel. 298-5779.
n 10th Anniversary Chewsical Jan 4 Celebrate Bermuda’s culture with live music, rap, poetry and theatrics. Ruth Seaton James Centre for Performing Arts, CedarBridge Academy, Prospect, 8pm. Tel. 292-2439. www.chewstick.org
n Children’s cycling Jan 5, 13, 19 and 26 The Tokio Youth Mountain Bike Series are free races encouraging children to cycle. Mountain and BMX bikes welcome. Prize draw to win a new bike. www.tokiomillennium.com or www.bermudabicycle.org
n Chewstick Neo-Griot Lounge Jan 6, 13, 20, 27 Open-mic jam session with Bermuda’s best musical and spoken word talent. 8pm-1am, free before 9pm, $10 after. Chewstick Neo-Griot Lounge & Café, corner of Court and Elliott Streets, Hamilton. Tel. 2922439. www.chewstick.org
n Fairmont to Fairmont Race Jan 6 The 36th Annual Fairmont to Fairmont Race will cover 7.2 miles between the Hamilton Princess and Fairmont Southampton hotels. Includes team relay, juniors’ 3k race and prize draw. A celebration breakfast will be held after the race. Tel. 236-9586 or e-mail info@bermudatiming.bm. www. racedayworld.com or www.maac.bm
n Calypso Sundays Jan 6, 13, 20, 27 Enjoy local produce and refreshments while listening to a live calypso band at the Bermuda Craft Market, Royal Naval Dockyard, 1:30-3:30pm. Tel. 292-1681/234-3208.
n Just for Laughs Jan 9 — Double Threat. Comedians Alonzo Bodden of the US and Danny Bhoy of Scotland perform at the City Hall Theatre, 8pm. Tickets $45. Jan 10-12 — Alonzo Bodden hosts with Danny Bhoy, Mark Forward, Orny Adams and Bermuda’s Jonathan Young. Pre-show menus at the Waterlot Inn and Newport GastroPub. The Fairmont Southampton Resort has a special room rate. Fairmont Southampton Mid-Ocean Ampitheatre. January 10 — 8pm, 11 — 8:30pm, 12 — 7pm and 10pm. Tickets $77-87 from www.bdatix.bm. www.comedyevent.bm.
n Film night Jan 12 Masai: The Rain Warriors. A film about a Masai tribe convinced it has been cursed and which embarks on a quest for a legend-
Compiled by Amanda Dale. Listings are subject to change. For the latest, contact the numbers provided/websites or visit www.bermuda.com. To submit a listing, e-mail Amanda Dale: adale@bermudasun.bm or call her on 278-1854
bermuda.com guide 41
what’s on
Bermuda consists of 181 islands
ary lion’ mane. Bermuda National Library, 6pm. Tel. 292-1681 for advance tickets.
n Met Opera in HD Jan 12 — Mozart’s ‘La Clemenza di Tito’. Jan 26 — Verdi’s ‘Un Ballo in Maschera’. Tradewinds Auditorium, Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute, 5pm. Tickets $35/$30 students. www.gands.bm or www.ptix.com. E-mail opera@gands.bm.
n Bermuda Marathon Weekend Jan 18-20 The 36th international meet includes the invitational mile, a 10k and a marathon. KPMG Invitational Mile, January 18 at 6:30pm. Bermuda 10k and 10k walk, January 19 at 9am. Bermuda Marathon and HalfMarathon, January 20, 8am. E-mail info@ bermudaraceweekend.com. Tel. 296-0951.
n Bermuda Festival of the Performing Arts Jan 18-19 Poncho Sanchez and his Latin Jazz Band,
Mid-Ocean Ampitheatre, Fairmont Southampton Resort, 8:30pm. $70/$25 students. Jan 24-25 The Complete World of Sports (abridged) by The Reduced Shakespeare Company, City Hall Theatre, 8pm. $65/$25 students. www.bdatix.bm. www.bermudafestival.org
n Photojournalism Jan 19 ‘Eyes on the World’ Professional Development Workshop. Bermuda National Gallery, 10am-1pm. Tel. 295-9428. E-mail education@bng.bm.
n Show jumping Jan 20 The Bermuda Equestrian Federation’s Jumping Shows 2013 at the National Equestrian Centre, Vesey Street, Devonshire. Juniors and adults. Spectators free. Tel. 294-4534. January 26-27 Hinson Hall Hunter Jumper Show 2013 Free. Tel. 234-0485. www.bef.bm Continued on page 46
GOVER N MENT OF B ER M U DA Minis tr y of Economy, Tr ade and Indus tr y Bermuda Post Office
110
35
1612-2012 ST PETER’S CHURCH BERMUDA
1612-2012 ST PETER’S CHURCH BERMUDA
95
1612-2012 ST PETER’S CHURCH BERMUDA
125
1612-2012 ST PETER’S CHURCH BERMUDA
The Bermuda Post Office is pleased to offer “St. Peter’s Church 1612–2012”, a series of four stamps commemorating the 400th anniversary of the oldest church in the Western hemisphere. These stamps will be released on 18 October 2012 First Day Cover $5.50, cost per set $3.65 Available at the Bermuda Philatelic Bureau
For more information please e-mail philatelic@gov.bm 42 bermuda.com guide
faith Message from Cornerstone Bible Fellowship Cornerstone Bible Fellowship in Bermuda is a non-denominational church made up of people from various ethnic groups and more than 30 countries. The church exists to move out in faith and prayer as we go and lead people to Jesus Christ, disciple them to maturity through practical Bible teaching, and to minister within our spiritual gifts as we worship God in spirit and truth. We believe that each child of God possess at least one spiritual gift: Therefore, we encourage each one to seek God to minister in their area of giftedness under the leadership of CBF. For this reason we have created a variety of ministries, just over 40 different ones varying from prison ministry to drama ministry and nursery ministry. Prayer is the most important ministry
at Cornerstone Bible Fellowship. Hence, we believe that the Prayer Meeting on Tuesday night at 7pm, at our 82 Church street location, is the most important meeting of our Fellowship. This is a unique time of worship and calling on God to do what only He can do. Cornerstone Foundation is a locally and internationally registered charity helping youth, at-risk youth and incarcerated youth to become responsible and productive members of their community through partnerships with family, school and the community and to provide an alternative to the gang culture. Our programmes are both pro-active and preventative. The Foundation also supports many overseas programs in countries such as Cambodia, Kenya, Zambia, Belize and Haiti. n
Cornerstone BIBLE FELLOWSHIP A Place for You
Cornerstone Bible Fellowship in Bermuda is a non-denominational church made up of people from various ethnic groups and over 30 countries. We exists to move out in faith and prayer as we go and lead people to Jesus Christ, disciple them to maturity through practical Bible teaching, and to minister within our spiritual gifts as we worship God in spirit and truth. Gary C. Simons
Senior Pastor
Sunday Service at 10am at Ruth Seaton James Auditorium, CedarBridge Academy Tel: (441) 295-9640
bermuda.com guide 43
Bermuda Rendezvous Activities lots to see and do
November 1, 2012 until March 31, 2013 While visiting Bermuda, experience our wonderful culture through our daily Rendezvous activities. Most activities listed are FREE, unless otherwise indicated. See the Rendezvous Activities brochure for a full list of activities and prices.
MON DAY Visitor Golf tournament * Port Royal Golf Course, Southampton Guided WalkinG tour City of Hamilton 10:00 a.m. sessions House tour City of Hamilton 11:00 a.m. skirlinG Ceremony Fort Hamilton, City of Hamilton 12 noon
T U E S DAY ‘Verdmont’ HistoriCal House tour * Smith’s 10:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. BotaniCal Gardens tour Paget 10:30 a.m. Berry Hill entrance 12 noon Visit ‘Camden’ Bermuda GomBey reVue No. 6 Passenger Terminal, City of Hamilton 4:00 p.m.
W E DN E S DAY Visitor Golf tournament * Ocean View Golf Course, Devonshire fort st. CatHerine* Coot Pond Road, St. George’s 9:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. ~ Reduced admission on Wednesdays ~ Closed December 26 HistoriCal House tours * ‘Verdmont’ 10:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. ‘The Globe Hotel’ 10:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. ‘Tucker House’ 11:00 a.m. – 3:00 p.m. HistoriCal re-enaCtment & tour Town of St. George 10:30 a.m. Guided tour 11:45 a.m. Mayor greets visitors 12 noon Ducking of the ‘town gossip’
BotaniCal Gardens tour Paget 10:30 a.m. Berry Hill entrance CHit CHat* Dolphin Quest, Royal Naval Dockyard 10:30 a.m. Bermuda Cookery demonstration No. 6 Passenger Terminal, City of Hamilton 2:30 p.m. – 4:00 p.m.
T H U R S DAY Visitor Golf tournament * Port Royal Golf Course, Southampton Walk & slide sHoW Somerset, Sandys 10:00 a.m. Bermuda national Gallery tours City Hall & Arts Centre, City of Hamilton 10:30 a.m. Bermuda aquarium, museum & Zoo Curator’s tour* North Shore Road, Hamilton Parish 1:00 p.m. Hands on Craft Bermuda Craft Market, Royal Naval Dockyard 1:00 – 4:00 p.m. disCoVerinG tHe royal naVal doCkyard 2:00 – 4:00 p.m.
F R I DAY ‘Verdmont’ HistoriCal House tour * Smith’s 10:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. BotaniCal Gardens tour Paget 10:30 a.m. Berry Hill entrance 12 noon Visit ‘Camden’
SAT U R DAY
DA I LY
City market City of Hamilton 8:00 a.m. – 12:00 noon
Bermuda aquarium, museum & Zoo* North Shore Road, Hamilton Parish see thursday for Curator’s tour
HistoriCal House tours * ‘Verdmont’ 10:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. ‘The Globe Hotel’ 10:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. ‘Tucker House’ 11:00 a.m. – 3:00 p.m. HistoriCal re-enaCtment & tour Town of St. George 10:30 a.m. Guided tour 11:45 a.m. Mayor greets visitors 12 noon Ducking of the ‘town gossip’ dolpHin sHoW* Dolphin Quest, Royal Naval Dockyard 1:00 p.m.
S U N DAY royal naVal doCkyard tour 11:30 a.m. Meet at the Anchor Fountain dolpHin demonstration* Dolphin Quest, Royal Naval Dockyard 1:00 p.m. Hands on Craft Bermuda Craft Market, Royal Naval Dockyard 1:00 – 4:00 p.m. taste of Bermuda Calypso sundays Bermuda Craft Market, Royal Naval Dockyard 1:30 – 3:30 p.m. railWay trail & HerBal Gardens Walk Paget 2:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m.
Bermuda national Gallery City Hall & Arts Centre, City of Hamilton see thursday for free tours doCkyard GlassWorks & tHe Bermuda rum Cake Company Royal Naval Dockyard fort st. CatHerine* Coot Pond Road, St. George’s see Wednesday for reduced admission day
talkinG aBout Bermuda
A free lecture series featuring a variety of topics, each one held in a cultural venue and on weekdays during november 1, 2012 - march 31, 2013. All lectures are held from 11:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m. Full schedule included in the Bermuda Rendezvous Activities brochure.
RESOuRCES FOR ENQuiRiES: • Dept of Community & Cultural Affairs, 292-1681 • Department of Tourism, 292-0023 note: Some activities may not be available due to a public holiday. Refer to the brochure for full details. * indicates a fee or admission is required. Information correct at press time, November 2012 and is subject to change without notice.
what’s on
St. George’s was once our capital
Continued from page 42
n Youth Camera Action (YCA) Jan 21 Basics of composition and photography. Bermuda National Gallery. E-mail education@bng.bm or call 295-9428.
n Women’s Inspiration Weekend Jan 25-27 Empowering, inspiring and energizing women. Two nights at the Pompano Beach Club, spa treatment, personal trainer, cocktail reception, life coaching session, meals, yoga and more. Tickets $650 per person for double occupancy, $850 for single, from www.bdatix.bm. E-mail frbranding@ gmail.com
n Bermuda Regional Bridge Tournament 2013 Jan 26-Feb 1 Bridge, panel shows and entertainment at the Fairmont Southampton Resort. Table fees $15 per person per session, $17 for unpaid ACBL or non-members. E-mail
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info@bermudaregional.com or call 2388000. www.bermudaregional.com.
n Afternoon High Tea Wednesdays and Saturdays Sweet P hosts afternoon tea featuring local produce at The Bermuda Perfumery, Stewart Hall, 5 Queen Street, St George’s. 2-5pm, $24. For reservations call 7472060.
n Bridge Join the Bermuda Bridge Club for games of Duplicate Contract Bridge. Admission $10 per game for non-members and visitors. Tel. 236-0551. www.bermudabridge.com
tours n City of Hamilton Mondays Meet at the Bermuda National Library, Queen Street, 10am. Tour includes Sessions House and ends at Fort Hamilton for the noon Skirling Ceremony. Free. Tel. 292-0023.
So much more to see & do January–March 2013 Bermuda restaurant Week January 21 – February 16, 2013
January 21 – march 3, 2013
Bermuda spring Break 2013 February 16 – 24 march 2 – 8 march 9 – 15 march 16 – 22
Visit GoToBermuda.com for details.
Save the DateS
Love month activities
what’s on
Bermuda was discovered in 1505
n Royal Naval Dockyard Thursdays Discover the history of Dockyard. Meet in front of the Cooperage, Maritime Lane, 2pm. Followed by a microbrewery tour in Victualling Yard at 3:20pm. Free. Sundays Meet at the Anchor Fountain by the Clocktower building, 11:30am. Free.
n St George’s Wednesdays and Saturdays Learn key moments in the island’s history on this walking tour. Meet at the Town Hall, King’s Square, 10:30am. Free.
n Botanical Gardens tour Wednesdays Meet at the Visitors’ Centre, Berry Hill Road entrance, Botanical Gardens, Paget, 10:30am. Free.
n Walk & slide show Thursdays History and architecture of the West End. 10am, Somerset Country Squire, Mangrove Bay. Free. Tel. 292-0023.
n Railway Trail Sundays Walk along the Railway Trail to the Herbal Gardens, 2-4pm. Meet at the Railway Trail entrance, South Road, Paget (next to the Harmony Club). Free. Tel. 292-0023.
n Walking Club of Bermuda Sundays Jan 6: Chaplin Bay, Southampton Jan 13: Botanical Gardens, Paget Jan 20: Church Bay (overlook), Southampton Jan 27: Spittal Pond, Smith’s All walks free, average six miles. Meet at 7am. Tel. 737-0437. www.walk.free.bm
n Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute Tuesdays This 2pm guided tour takes you through the wonders of the ocean. Adults $12.50,
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seniors $10, children aged 6-17 $6.50, under-fives go free. For more information go to www.buei.org
n Bermuda Aquarium, Museum & Zoo Thursdays The Curator’s Tour, 1pm, maximum 12 people. BAMZ, Flatts Village, Hamilton Parish. Adults $10, children and seniors $5, under-fives go free. Tel. 293-2727, www.bamz.org
n Bermuda Institute of Ocean Sciences Tour Wednesdays Tour of the marine research centre, 10-11am. Free. Biological Lane, Ferry Reach, St. George’s. Tel. 297-1880. E-mail info@ bios.edu. www.bios.edu
arts n Bermuda Society of Arts January 4-23 — Members’ Photographic Show / Cathyann Hansey / Akil Simmons: Through the Lens (part proceeds go to the late Tamell Simons’ children’s photography club at Hamilton Community Centre). Free. Monday to Friday, 10am-4pm, and Saturday, 10am-2pm. City Hall, Church Street, Hamilton. Tel. 292-3824. www.bsoa.bm
n Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art Closed from January 4-17 January 18-31 — Drawing with Light: Photography in Bermuda / Quenching Thirst (photographs from Tom Butterfield’s personal collection). Open Monday to Saturday 10am-4pm, and Sunday 11am-4:30pm. $5 admission, free for members and children under-12. Wheelchair accessible, with Homer’s Café for refreshments. Afternoon tea on Sundays, 2-4pm, $15 per person. Botanical Gardens, Paget. Tel. 236-2950. www.bermudamasterworks.com
gu覺de JANUARY 2013
Feel the heat Poncho Sanchez & Latin Jazz Band in performing arts festival page 42
Shopping, sightseeing, dining, culture
Free FREE