bermuda.com guide January 2011 by Bermuda.com Ltd

bermuda.com guide | january 2011

gu覺de january 2011

Super Nova Homegrown star to sing at festival Cheers! Your handy pub guide

Shopping, sightseeing, dining, culture

Free

FOR EVERY SPECIAL OCCASION 55 & 71 FRONT STREET & 16 QUEEN STREET, HAMILTON • WATER STREET, ST. GEORGE’S CLOCKTOWER MALL, DOCKYARD • ALL MAJOR HOTELS • TEL (441) 295 2351 • FAX (441) 292 9153

contents

Photo supplied

Diggin’ the dancing queens — see page 7

n Arts

n Real Estate

galleries & shows 15

ownership options 41

n Events

n Shopping

calendar 11-15

flex the plastic 47-53

n Food & drink

n Sightseeing

meet the chef 22 best places to eat 54-64 classic local recipes 62 pub guide 64

east to west 25-39

n History

n Transportation

n Sports & Activities golf, tennis etc 21

bus info 44 bus schedule 46 n Maps ferry info 45 island map between 24 & 25 ferry schedule 16 & 17 St. George’s 27 scooter rentals 46 Hamilton 34 how to ride safely 42 Dockyard 37 best historic sites 38-39

n Weather

n People minister’s welcome 4 meet the chef 22

n Practicalities health, customs etc 42-46

2 bermuda.com guide

what to expect 46

Co-publisher & advertising manager: Lisa Beauchamp, lbeauchamp@bermudasun.bm Tel: 278-1850 Co-publisher & editor-in-chief: Tony McWilliam, tmcwilliam@ bermudasun.bm Tel: 278-1860 Design & Layout: Creative Circle Media Consulting Account executive: Anona Everett Tel: 278-1832 Accounts: Donna Vesely Tel: 278-1831 Delivery: Lloyd Somner Cover photo: Supplied Contributors: Theresa Airey, Meredith Ebbin, Lance Furbert, Sirkka Huish, Simon Jones, Sarah Lagan, Jamie Macmillan, Leanne McGrath, Kageaki Smith, James Whittaker. Special thanks to Alison Outerbridge bermuda.com guide Published by The Bermuda Sun a subsidiary of MediaHouse © Bermuda.com Ltd. Printed by Island Press Ltd. Web: www.bermuda.com Information and services contained in the guide are believed to be correct at the time of printing; however, prices and times may be subject to change without notice. The Bermuda Sun Limited makes every effort to ensure accuracy but accepts no liability for errors or omissions. Reproduction in whole or in part by permission of the publisher only.

welcome to bermuda A FEW WORDS FROM OUR MINISTER OF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT AND

Welcome,

TOURISM | Welcome. We are so pleased

that you have chosen Bermuda as your

We are so pleased that you have chosen Bermuda as your vacation destination. vacation destination. Bermuda is famous for its tranquil

Bermuda is famous for its tranquil pleasures â&#x20AC;&#x201C;sunset skies, leisurely walks along pleasures â&#x20AC;&#x201D; sunsetwaters. skies, leisurely walks ink sand beach or a snorkel adventures in our turquoise along a pink sand beach or snorkel ad-

However, Bermuda is more than just beautiful and great scenery. We are ventures in ourbeaches turquoise waters. so an Island with a thriving culture, a rich history and an abundance of activities to keep However, Bermuda is more than just ou entertained during your stay. beautiful beaches and great scenery. We

are also an Island with a thriving culture, In fact, there are several world-class sporting and cultural events on tap over the historyembrace and an abundance ofevents activi- such as t ext few months that will give you plentyaofrich reasons our Island; tiesRace to keep you entertained yourFestival. stay. nternational Weekend and the during Bermuda In fact, there are several world-class sporting and cultural events on

In addition to participating in our I want toof encourage tap over the next few months thatactivities, will give you plenty reasons toyou to experienc ur premier shopping establishments, exceptional restaurants, exciting night life and of our Island; events such as the International Race Weekend and ourse ourembrace signature golf courses. the Bermuda Festival.

In addition participating in our activities, I want to encourage you toHowever, We have the mosttocourses per square mile of any country in the world. ou are seeking something a bit more serene, please visit one of our many spas, which wi experience our premier shopping establishments, exceptional restaurants, elp dissolve your stresses and reinvigorate your mind and body. exciting night life and of course our signature golf courses. We have the most courses per square mile of any country in the world.

However you choose to spend your Bermuda vacation, I am certain you will have if you are seeking something a bit more serene, please visit one memorableHowever, experience. of our many spas, which will help dissolve your stresses and reinvigorate

Onyour behalf of the of Business Development and Tourism, I want to thank y mind and Ministry body. or choosing Bermuda, and we look to Bermuda welcoming you back our shores very so However you choose to forward I amtocertain spend your vacation,

ncerely,

you will have a memorable experience.

On behalf of the Ministry of Business Development and Tourism, I want

to thank you for choosing Bermuda, and we look forward to welcoming you

Thesoon. Hon. Patrice K. Minors JP, MP back to our shores very

Sincerely, The Hon. Patrice K. Minors JP, MP

4 bermuda.com guide of Business Development and Tourism Minister

editor’s welcome

Time to hit some balls or head to the spa By Tony McWilliam | It’s golf, tennis and spa time. If you’re lucky you might enjoy glorious sunshine and blue skies but in January, it’s always best to be prepared for a little wind and rain. Typically, the morning temperature will be around 63 degrees, rising through the day to just under 67 degrees in the afternoon. By early evening it will dip to 64 degrees. You will need a sweater or a fleece and if you’re on a rental bike, a lined coat and a scarf are essential — particularly at night. Also, be sure to carry a rain jacket; rainfall is most likely to occur around 8am and there might be the odd thunderstorm in the early hours. There’s plenty to do — whether you are honeymooners embarking on your first visit, here on business with some free time to kill or celebrating your golden anniversary, January has lots to offer. Turn to page 11 to peruse our calendar of events for options. Enjoy! n

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Why not take a tennis lesson? It’s an ideal time of year to get back on the court

6 bermuda.com guide

cover story

Photos supplied

Arrival — featuring original musicians from the Swedish sensations ABBA — perform Jan. 18 & 19.

Performing arts festival a cultural highlight By Sarah Lagan | As the new year gets underway, the annual Festival of the Performing Arts, one of our cultural highlights, takes centre stage. A host of top international acts head to our shores this month, including the original musicians from Swedish sensation ABBA and plus our very own Heather Nova, one of Bermuda’s most successful singers. The line-up for the two-month festival always appeals to a wide range of tastes and this year is Dancing Queens: Arrival has unique rights to replicate the original ABBA costumes.

no exception. In January, the focus is on music. Dancing Queen, Fernando, Take A Chance on Continued on next page

bermuda.com guide 7

cover story

The first Bermuda Festival was in 1976. Continued from previous page

Photos supplied

The East Coast Chamber Orchestra is renowned for its passionate performances.

Chamber music by Imani Winds bridges several different styles.

Me and Knowing You, Knowing Me — if ABBA’s greatest hits stir your soul then you are in for a treat. Arrival — performing January 18 and 19 — is more than just another tribute band; not only does it feature original ABBA musicians, it is the only act in the world with exclusive rights to replicate the original stage costumes. The band has some 12 members. Those looking for more highbrow entertainment may find the New York-based and conductor-less string ensemble Ecco — the East Coast Chamber Orchestra — of interest. It stars some exciting and innovative young players who, according to their billing, provide “fresh interpretations of new and old works, coupled with passionate, joyous playing”. They will appear on January 21 and 22. Also in the classical groove, the Grammy nominated ensemble Imani Winds will perform on January 27. With two member composers dedicated to commissioning new work, Imani Winds has become one of the most successful chamber music ensembles in the Continued on page 10

January’s line-up • Arrival, the music of ABBA, Tues Jan 18 & Wed Jan 19. Fairmont Southampton Resort, 8:30pm • Ecco, Fri Jan 21 & Sat Jan 22, City Hall Theatre, Hamilton, 8pm • Imani Winds, Thurs, Jan 27, City Hall Theatre, Hamilton, 8pm. • Heather Nova & Friends, Sat Jan 29, The Ruth Seaton James Centre, Devonshire, 8pm

8 bermuda.com guide

For tickets ($65 adults, student $25) visit www.bermudafestival.org, www.bdatix.bm or tel: 232-2255. Tickets also available from various outlets including: The iStore, 46 Reid Street Hamilton; Picture Perfect, Heron Bay Plaza. Box office opens at the venue one hour prior to performance.

cover story

Yehudi Menuhin helped found the festival. Continued from page 8

Photo supplied

Homegrown songstress Heather Nova is sure to enjoy a rapturous reception when she plays on January 29.

U.S.. The wind quintet’s music bridges European, American, African and Latin American styles. The final act in January features a home grown favourite — Heather Nova. Folksy, natural and mesmerizing describes her acoustic style and she will be accompanied at her January 29 show by Austrian multi-instrumentalist Arnulf Linder. Nova is a proving to be a real champion of her fellow island musicians — not only is she donating her fee to support local artists’ and musicians’ charity The Chewstick Foundation — she has also invited some of its members to join her on stage. If you want to get a real taste of local musical talent, this gig will not disappoint. n

GOVERNMENT OF BERMUDA Ministry of Energy, Telecommunications and E-Commerce Bermuda Post Office

The Bermuda Post Office is pleased to offer “Dockyard Apprentices: Pioneers of Progress”, a series of four stamps depicting the role of Bermudian apprentices in the worldwide system of British Naval Dockyards.

Dockyard Apprentices

110

Dockyard Apprentices

RELEASE DATE: 23 SEPTEMBER 2010 | COST PER SET $3.00 | OFFICIAL FIRST DAY COVER $5.00 10 bermuda.com guide

what’s on Performing arts festival, race weekend our standout events events & activities n BEF Harness Racing Jan 1-31 National Equestrian Centre, Vesey Street, Devonshire. Times TBA. Tickets $7, tel: 234-0485 e-mail jacherry@northrock. bm or visit www.bef.bm

n Chewstick Neo Griot Lounge Jan 1, 15, 29 Open-mic evening sessions. Spinning Wheel, Court Street. $10. 504-2439, www.chewstick.org

n Just For Laughs Jan 12-15 Bermuda’s fifth annual comedy festival. Jan 12: Alonzo Bodden’s solo show, City Hall Theatre, Hamilton, 8pm. Tickets $65 ($55 when bought as part of a package with one of the Friday or Saturday gala shows, see below). Jan 13: Three international comedians at the Mid-Ocean Amphitheatre, Fairmont Southampton, 8pm. Tickets $85. Jan 14-15: three international comedians at the Mid-Ocean Amphitheatre, Fairmont Southampton, 8pm. Tickets $75-85. Tickets from www.bdatix.bm

Compiled by Leanne McGrath. Listings are subject to change: For the latest, call the numbers provided and visit our website www.bermuda.com. To submit a listing, e-mail lmcgrath@ bermudasun.bm

Photo by Kageaki Smith

The ‘Front Street Mile’ is a highlight of International Race Weekend, Jan. 14-16.

n Regimental Music Display Jan 14 Military music, showtunes, contemporary composers and marching by the Band & Corps of Drums of the Bermuda Regiment and the Bermuda Islands Pipe Band and their dancers. Free. Front Street, Hamilton, from 9pm. Call 292-9447.

n Bermuda Marathon weekend Jan 14-16 The 36th Bermuda International Race Weekend includes the KPMG Bermuda Invitational Mile, the Bermuda Triangle Challenge Mile, the International 10k and 10k walk, International marathon and halfmarathon. Full schedule at www.bermudaraceweekend.com

n Weekend Film Series Jan 16 Hosted by Bermuda Docs. 3pm: Documentary Client 9: The Rise And

bermuda.com guide 11

what’s on

Use pink bus stops for travel into Hamilton,

Fall Of Eliot Spitzer, about the former New York Governor. 5:15pm: British dark comedy Down Terrace. Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute, tickets $15 from the BUEI gift shop.

n Bermuda Festival of the Performing Arts Jan 18-29 (see pages 7-10) Jan 18, 19 & 20: 8:30pm, The Music of Abba, Fairmont Southampton Resort. Jan 21 & 22: 8pm, East Coast Chamber Orchestra, City Hall, Hamilton. Jan 27: 8pm, Imani Winds, City Hall, Hamilton. Jan 29: 8pm, Heather Nova and Friends, Ruth Seaton James Centre, Devonshire. Tickets (per show) $65 adults, $25 students, from www.bdatix.bm

n Bermuda Regional Bridge Tournament Jan 22-28, times TBA At Fairmont Southampton Resort. Call Jane Clipper, chairwoman, 293-2972. www.bermudaregional.com

n Burns Night Jan 29 Annual celebration of Scotland’s Bard, Robert Burns, hosted by the Caledonian Society of Bermuda at Tucker’s Point Hotel. Features poetry readings and traditional haggis

dinner. Cocktails 7pm, dinner 7:30pm. Tickets $75, e-mail ihind@becl.bm www.caledoniansocietyofbermuda.com

n Art sessions Tuesdays through Saturdays Hamilton Visual Arts Centre, King Street. Tue 5-8pm, art sessions; Wed 11am-3pm, Mommy and Me Day; Thur 5-8pm, Ladies Night; Fri 7-10pm, College Night; Sat 1011:30am, Kids Art Club (ages six and up). Tel. 293-5960.

n Skirling Ceremony Mondays, noon Kilted pipers, drummers and dancers at Fort Hamilton, Happy Valley Road, Pembroke. Free. Tel. 292-9447.

n Visitors’ Golf Tournament Mon & Thurs, 8:30am-noon Par 71 (6,842 yard) Port Royal Golf Course, home of the PGA Grand Slam of Golf, in Southampton. Prizes for 1st-3rd places. $90 per person includes cart (50 per cent discount on green fees). Club rental $25. Tel. 234-0974. www.portroyalgolf.bm

n Bermuda Gombey Revue Tuesdays, 4pm Traditional dancers at No. 6 Passenger Terminal, Front Street. Free. Tel. 292-9447.

n Bermuda’s History Tuesdays, 11am Lecture at Bermuda National Gallery, City Hall, Hamilton. Free. Tel. 292-9447.

n Chit Chat: Dolphin Experience Wednesdays Learn about dolphins and protecting the ocean at Dolphin Quest, Dockyard. $10 adults, $8 seniors, under 13s free. www.dolphinquest.org

n Cookery demonstrations Photo supplied

Learn more about our flippered friends at Dolphin Quest, on Wednesdays.

12 bermuda.com guide

Wednesdays Local flavours from Bermudian chef Cheryl Kerr. 2:30-4pm, No. 6 Passenger Terminal, Front Street, Hamilton. Free.

what’s on

and blue for heading away from the city. n Visitors’ Golf Tournament Wednesdays, times TBA Ocean View Golf Course, Barkers Hill, Devonshire, a par 35 (2,940 yard), nine-hole course. Cost: $50 per person including cart, $20 club rental. Special 18-hole rate upon request. Tel. 295-9093. www.oceanview.bm

n Hands On Crafts

locally brewed beer and ginger beer while listening to a Calypso band at Bermuda Craft Market, Dockyard. Tel. 292-9447.

n Dockyard Glassworks Daily, 9am-10pm Glassblowing and fresh rumcake. Dockyard, free. Tel. 292-9447.

n Bermuda Clayworks

Thurs & Sun, 1-4pm, Make your own creation at Bermuda Craft Market, Dockyard. Free. Tel. 292-9447.

Daily, 9am-5pm A full-time pottery production company and gallery in Dockyard. Tel. 234-5116.

n Somerset Walk and Slide Show

tours

Thursdays 10am Tour of Somerset starting from Country Squire Restaurant, Mangrove Bay. 11:15am, Audio-visual tour of Bermuda highlights. Free, tel. 292-9447.

n Folk Medicine: Yesterday and Today Thursdays, 2-4pm Introduction to herb and plant medicine used by early settlers and modern holistic approaches. No. 6 Passenger Terminal, Front Street. Tel. 292-9447.

n Salsamania Fridays, 9:30pm-12:30am Free Latin dance and music at Lido Complex, Elbow Beach Hotel. www.bermudasalsa.com

n Dolphin Show Saturdays, 3pm Dolphin Quest, Dockyard. $10 adults, $8 seniors, under 13s free. www.dolphinquest.org

n Vendor Market Saturdays Somerset Cricket Field, Somerset Road, Sandys. www.bsbdc.bm

n Taste of Bermuda Calypso Sundays Sundays, 1:30-3:30pm Try Bermuda preserves, rumcakes and

n Beyond Bermuda tours Historian Tim Rogers hosts history and nature tours. Tel. 234-4082. E-mail: trogers@northrock.bm

n Byways Bermuda Tours Fully escorted tours with driver, guide & refreshments. Tel. 504-8687. www.bywaysbermuda.com

n Famous Homes and Hideaways sightseeing cruise Various days/times Cruise into an exclusive neighbourhood known as Millionaire’s Row plus learn about our flora and fauna. $45. From Hamilton Harbour and Dockyard. Contact Geri Roberts, Consort Cruises. Tel. 335-7201. E-mail consort@transact.bm

n Walking Club of Bermuda Sundays Jan 2: Modern Mart, South Road, Paget. Jan 9: Chaplin Bay, South Road, Warwick. Jan 16: Botanical Gardens Visitor Centre, Paget. Jan 23: Church Bay (overlook) Southampton. Jan 30: Spittal Pond, western entrance, Smith’s. All walks free, begin at 7am. www.walk.free.bm

bermuda.com guide 13

what’s on

Most common surnames: Bean, Burgess,

n Royal Naval Dockyard Tour

n Old Town Tour

Sundays, 11:30am-12:30pm Dockyard defences and ship repairs. Meet at the Anchor Fountain outside the Clocktower Mall. Free. Tel. 238-4824.

Wed. & Sat., 10:30am Walking tour of St. George’s, starting at King’s Square. At 11.45am, a greeting from the mayor. Free. Tel. 292-9447.

n City walking tours

n Historical reenactment

Mondays, 10am. Historic points of interest. Departs from Bermuda National Library on Queen Street and ends at Fort Hamilton for the Skirling Ceremony. Free. Tel. 292-9447. No tour on January 3.

Wed. & Sat., noon Light-hearted recreation of a traditional public punishment. Costumed event includes the ducking of a nagging wench. King’s Square, St. George’s. Free. Tel. 292-9447.

n Botanical Gardens Tour

n Bermuda National Gallery tour

Tue, Wed, Fri, 10:30am Meet at Berry Hill entrance near Visitors’ Centre, Paget. Free. Tel. 236-5291.

Thursdays Meet 10:30am, City Hall. Free.

n Sessions House Tour

Tues, Wed, Thur, Sat 17th century house detailing history of St. David’s Island. Southside Road, St. David’s. $2, call before visit, 293-5960.

Tue, Wed & Thurs Tour home of Parliament and Supreme Court. Free. Corner of Parliament and Church Streets, Hamilton. Tel. 292-9447.

n Bermuda Institute of Ocean Sciences Tour Wednesdays Hour-long tour of labs, grounds & research vessels of marine research centre. 10am, free. Biological Lane, Ferry Reach, St. George’s. Tel. 297-1880. E-mail info@ bios.edu. www.bios.edu

n Carter House

n Discovering Royal Naval Dockyard Thursdays, 2-4pm The architecture of the Victorian Dockyard plus a visit to a microbrewery. Tasting and Q&A. Meet in front of the Cooperage. Free. Tel. 292-9447.

arts n ACE Gallery

Byways Bermuda Tours Tour the island in Heidi’s comfortable minibus; a wonderful opportunity to see and experience the real Bermuda with a well-informed, enthusiastic guide and driver. Heidi offers 4-hour afternoon tours with refreshments, and an all-day tour with complimentary refreshments. $100 per person, discount for more than 4: $80 each. Reservations: 535-9169 www.bywaysbermuda.com   bermudafootsteps@logic.bm

Exhibits by local artists. Free. Open Tues, Weds, Thurs 11am-2pm. ACE building, Woodbourne Road, Hamilton. Contact Amy Shilingford. Tel. 299-9365. E-mail: info@ acebermuda.com www.acebermuda.com

n Bermuda Arts Centre Exhibits by local artists. Free. Open Mon-Sun 11am-4pm. Dockyard. Tel. 234-2809. E-mail: artcentre@ibl.bm www.artbermuda.bm

n Bermuda National Gallery Until January 27: Student Art Competition

14 bermuda.com guide

what’s on

Davis, DeSilva, Fox, Hill, Swan, Wilson and the History of Art in Bermuda. January 28-31: Decoding The European Collection, William Collieson, The Art of Elisee Maclet and the History of Art in Bermuda. Free. Open Mon-Fri 10am-4pm and Sat 10am-2pm. City Hall, Church Street, Hamilton. Tel. 295-9428. www.bng.bm

n Masterworks Museum   of Bermuda Art

n National Museum of Bermuda

n Common Ground Café

Open daily 10am-4pm (last admission 3pm). Adults $10, seniors $8, under-13s free. Royal Naval Dockyard. Tel. 234-1418.   E-mail: info@bmm.bm www.bmm.bm

n Bermuda Society of Arts

Floral Lane, works from the Bermudiana Collection. Entry $5. Open Mon-Sat 10am-4pm. Botanical Gardens, Paget. Tel: 236-2950. E-mail: mworks@logic.bm www.bermudamasterworks.com Works by local artists. Open Mon- Fri, 7:30am-5pm, Sat 8am-3pm. Chancery Lane, Hamilton. Contact Susan Pearson. Tel. 505-4290.  E-mail SPArt@logic.bm

n Wither The Fates: Bermuda’s Beginnings

Until Jan 5: Onions Gallery: Members’ winter show. Edinburgh Gallery: Silk and Silver, by Lynn and David Morrell. Studio A: Twisted, various ceramic artists. Studio B: Fusion, A Silk Exploration by Geralyn Counsell. Studio C: Colour Explosion by Karl Sternarth. Jan. 7-25: Onions Gallery: Bermuda, The Dark Ages by Calix Smith. Studio A: Kimberley Tucker. Studio B: International Colours by Andrea Linke. Free. Open Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat 10am2pm. City Hall, Church Street, Hamilton. Tel. 292-3824. E-mail: bsoa@ibl.bm www.bsoa.bm

Jan. 1-31 17th Century Bermuda artifacts at the World Heritage Centre, Water Street, St. George’s. $5 adults, $2 children. Tel. 2975791. wwwstgeorgesfoundation.org

n Crisson & Hind Art Gallery

Wed, Thur, Sat 18th century merchant’s house. Adults $5, children $2, free on Fri. Open 10am-4pm. St. George’s. Tel. 297-0545. www.bnt.bm

Hand-carved sculptures from Zimbabwe. Free. 71 Front St, Hamilton. Tel. 295-1117. www.crissonandhind.com

n The Legal Instruments of Emancipation Documents relating to the abolition of slavery in Bermuda at the Bermuda Archives, Parliament Street, Hamilton. Open daily 8:30am-5pm, free.

n Camden House Tue & Fri, 12-2pm The historic house is the official residence of the Premier. Located in the Botanical Gardens, Paget. Free. Tel. 236-5902.

n Bermuda National Trust Museum at Globe Hotel Bermuda’s role in the American Civil War. Wed, Fri, Sat, 10am-4pm, adults $5, children $2, free on Fri. St. George’s. Tel. 297-1423. www.bnt.bm

n Tucker House Museum

n Verdmont Museum Wednesdays Antiques including cedar furniture and portraits. Adults $5, children $2, open 10am-4pm. Verdmont Lane, Smith’s. Tel. 236-7369. www.bnt.bm

bermuda.com guide 15

WINTER FERRY SCHEDULE 2010/2011

GOVERNMENT OF BERMUDA Ministry of Tourism and Transport Department of Marine and Ports

Tickets/Tokens

Passes

Fare Information Passes valid on all routes on both ferries & buses

Marine and Ports shall not be liable for loss or damage to property.

Adult 1-Day Adult 2-Day Adult 3-Day Adult 4-Day

$12.00 $20.00 $28.00 $35.00

Adult 7-Day Adult Monthly Pass Adult 3-Month Pass

$45.00 $55.00 $135.00

Student Passes (5-18yrs)

All Students (residents only) must present a transportation pass when using public transportation.

Please ensure you have a token or ticket before boarding

BLUE ROUTE/GREEN ROUTE Adult One-way $4.00 Bikes an additional $4.00 Adult-15 tickets $30.00 Student (5-16yrs) One-way $2.00 Student-15 tickets $7.50 Child Under Age 5 FREE Bermuda Senior Citizens FREE with Special Persons Pass

PINK ROUTE Adult One-way Adult-15 tickets Student (5-16yrs) One-way Student-15 tickets Child Under Age 5 Bermuda Senior Citizens with Special Persons Pass

$2.50 $20.00 $2.00 $7.50 FREE FREE

ORANGE ROUTE - This service will resume 11 April 2011 Adult One-way $4.00 (Hamilton to/from Dockyard) Adult One-way $4.00 (Dockyard to/from St. George’s) Adult One-way $8.00 (Hamilton to/from St. George’s) Bikes an additional $4.00 (Hamilton to/from Dockyard) Bikes an additional $4.00 (Dockyard to/from St. George’s) Student 5-16yrs One-way $2.00 (Ham/Dock) $4.00 (Ham/St. Geo) Child Under Age 5 FREE Bermuda Senior Citizens FREE with Special Persons Pass

Passes, Tokens & Tickets available from the Hamilton Ferry & Bus Terminals, Visitors’ Service Bureau, sub-post offices, hotels and guest houses.

Hamilton Ferry Terminal open Mon-Fri 6.30am-8pm • Sat 7.30am-6pm • Sun & Holidays 8.30am-6.30pm Service is subject to change. For further information please call Hamilton Terminal 295-4506. www.seaexpress.bm

WINTER FERRY SCHEDULE 2010/2011

Hamilton • West End • Dockyard BLUE ROUTE

Monday - Friday

MOTORBIKES MAY EMBARK AT HAMILTON & DOCKYARD ONLY Leave Hamilton

Leave Dockyard

Watford Bridge

Cavello Bay

Arrive Hamilton

6:50

7:20

7:10

7:45

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7:30

8:15

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Goes to or from Green Route

Saturdays, Sundays and Public Holidays

Leave Hamilton

Leave Dockyard

Arrive Hamilton

9:00

9:30

9:50

10:00

10:30

10:50

11:00

11:30

11:50

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12:30

12:50 2:20

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5:50

Hamilton, Dockyard, Rockaway, St. George’s and St. David’s are accessible to persons with disability. It is not accessible on the Green Route at 9:15 am, 10:45 am and 1:45 pm, also from Dockyard on the Blue Route at 10:00 am and 11:00 am. CASH NOT ACCEPTED ON FERRIES

NO MOTORBIKES WHERE INDICATED

Service is subject to change. For further information please call Hamilton Terminal 295-4506. Hamilton Ferry Terminal open Mon-Fri 6.30am-8pm • Sat 7.30am-6pm • Sun & Holidays 8.30am-6.30pm Marine and Ports shall not be liable for loss or damage to property.

then . . .

100 years on, Flatts Village still beguiles By Theresa Airey | Flatts Village has had a varied and colourful history. The name ‘Flatts’ is a mystery as no one knows for sure its origins, but some believe it is derived from the word ‘Fleights’ found here on a document dating back to the l7th century. The word Fleigh in Dutch refers to a frame to dry fish or tobacco. Since tobacco was a prosperous export back then, it is assumed that the name of Flatts is a deviation of the word Fleigh. Few would guess that back in the l700s, picturesque Flatts Village was the second busiest port in Bermuda for fishing and shipping, after St. George’s. However, by 1850, due to heavy sand deposits in the harbour, the waters became too shallow for large ships to enter and the port gradually lost it importance to shipping. As a less vital port however, it became a smuggler’s den, as the Customs officials conveniently remained in St. George’s. 18

bermuda.com guide

. . . and now

Homes of the wealthy and prominent dot the area. In the 1860s, U.S Consul General Charles Allen served as President Abraham Lincoln’s consul in Bermuda, and lived in Flatts in a home called Wistowe. One of Mr. Allen’s friends was the writer Mark Twain, right, who often visited Bermuda and stayed at Wistowe. The house still stands and is located on the water just up the street and across from the aquarium. Later in the early 1900s, this quaint fishing village turned its hand to netting tourists and up sprang the Frascati Hotel and golf course, which later became the Coral Island Hotel. Today the site houses the lovely, waterside condos at St. James Court. You can still stand on the bridge (which dates back 100 years) and take in the gorgeous colour of the water as the tide

gushes in and out of the Sound and back into the Atlantic Ocean. There are terrific restaurants in the village and it is a wonderful spot for fishing and boating. And of course, you must visit the Bermuda Aquarium, Museum and Zoo, one of Bermuda’s most popular attractions for families. To reach Flatts Village take the No. 10 or 11 bus from Hamilton, or stop by while strolling along the scenic Bermuda Railway Trail. n Main images from Theresa Airey’s book, ‘Bermuda Then and Now’, a collection of hand-coloured photographs taken in the late 1800s and early 1900s and accompanied by contemporary shots taken 100 years later, in 2007 and 2008. The book can be found in all Bermuda bookstores. bermuda.com guide 19

The Riddell’s Bay

Golf &Country Club

Bermuda’s most historic golf course

HOLE YDS PAR HOLE YDS PAR 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

424 354 138 282 370 351 479 360 247

4 4 3 4 4 4 5 4 4

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

340 114 392 359 366 389 382 181 326

4 3 4 4 4 4 4 14 4

OUT 3,005 36

2,849 34

OUT 3,005 36 TOTAL 5,854 70

to reserve your time call 238-3225 or e-mail golf@riddellsbay.com

warwick bermuda | tel: (441) 238-1060 | www.riddellsbay.com

sports

Lots to do outdoors By James Whittaker | If you’re the outdoors type, you’ve chosen the right spot. Here’s our quick guide to what’s out there. n Golf We have more courses per square mile than any other country in the world. Some are private but many hotels can introduce their guests to these clubs and arrange tee times. See your concierge or visit www. bermuda.com

n Tennis Most courts are attached to hotels but another option is to play at the governmentrun tennis stadium, which has both clay and hard courts. It’s on Marsh Folly Road, a 10-minute walk from the centre of Hamilton. Tel: 292-0105 to book a court.

n Diving You’ll need to be a hardy enthusiast to take the plunge this time of year but if you do, there are ample rewards. Our coral reefs have been a graveyard for ships for centuries. From civil war blockade-runners to a B-29 airplane, this is the wreck capital of the Atlantic. Visibility actually improves in the winter months.

n Fishing With the deep ocean just offshore, Bermuda offers world-class fishing. The peak season is May to November but you can fish year-round here. On a sunny day you might snag a decent-sized bonefish from the shore.

Photo by kageaki smith

Golf in Bermuda is a year-round treat.

n Cycling Our coastal roads and the route of the old railway trail are great for bikers. You can hire bicycles at Wheels (Tel: 292-2245) and Oleander (Tel: 236-5235), both have numerous outlets.

n Bowling For a rainy day or a family evening out, try Warwick Lanes in Warwick (Tel: 236-5290) or Southside Family Bowl (Tel: 293-5906) in St David’s.

bermuda.com guide 21

meet the chef

Photo by Sirkka Huish

Michael Harris was inspired at an early age by the cooking skills of his mother and grandmother.

Creativity is key for Fairmont chef By Sirkka Huish | Michael Harris knew he was destined for a career in the kitchen when he became hooked on cooking as a young boy. The junior sous chef at the Fairmont Hamilton Princess Hotel has fond childhood memories of his fascination with his mother and grandmother’s culinary skills, and watching cooking shows on TV as a family. But it was a cooking class at junior high school that sealed the deal: “The cooking course was only one semester,” he told us, “but it covered a lot of the basics. That’s when I really knew what I was going to do.” 22 bermuda.com guide

meet the chef

Fish chowder is a national dish. Mr. Harris, who got married this summer, to Natalie, works with some 25 kitchen staff and puts in about ten hours a day, feeding up to 450 people at a time. He has fun working with his team and enjoys “being creative and making up new menus”. Mr. Harris has lived in Bermuda for three years and previously worked at the Fairmont Southampton Resort. After attending college, he did his apprenticeship with Delta Hotels in New Brunswick, Canada, working his way up the career ladder at the Delta Beausejour Hotel for about seven years. He said: “Being in the kitchen feels great, it’s what I have a passion for.”

Best appetizer? I love to make Jonah lump crab cakes as I’m all about seafood. Ever since I learned how to make them, I have been adding them to menus as specials. They just taste so good.

Best main course? Ginger infused salmon because the marinade really sweetens the taste of the salmon. My wife never used to like salmon until she tried this. The salmon is marinated in ginger then baked on high heat for about five minutes, and you taste a fusion of flavours.

Best dessert? Crème brulee; it tastes good and it’s fairly easy to make. I like the explosion of flavours and you can’t beat the caramelized sugar on top.

Best local ingredient? I use local bananas for soup, a tomato and banana bisque. I love to cook with

onions as Bermuda has the best in the world. And the local rockfish is a beautiful light, white fish.

Favourite wine? Pinot Noir is an aromatic wine that goes well with every red meat and can be paired with different, light sauces.

Favourite Bermudian dish? Bermuda fish chowder as it’s so unique. It gives you a flavour you aren’t expecting, but you’re bound to like it.

Your management style? I’m pretty easy going and have a calm approach; I don’t like to yell unless it’s absolutely necessary. I try to be handson and build strong relationships with my staff.

Favourite celebrity chef? I like Gordon Ramsay’s style of cooking; he makes rustic dishes, is very well disciplined and inspires me to try different ingredients. I also like the way Anthony Bourdain travels and cooks — he goes everywhere and makes the most of international flavours.

Most embarrassing moment in the kitchen? I once burned ten whole turkeys. I put them in the oven, forgot about them and went home for the night. It was years ago and I’ve never done it again — I learned my lesson.

Ambition? To be an executive chef or food and beverage manager at a well-run hotel, like the Fairmont. Either that or to own a successful, fine dining restaurant. n bermuda.com guide 23

A trip to Bermuda would not be complete without a visit to the island’s newest attraction; The Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art. Opened on March 2nd, 2008, this state of the art building is the first purpose built museum in the history of Bermuda. Housed in the beautiful Botanical Gardens in Paget, five minutes from Hamilton, the new museum is in itself a work of art. Plan your visit and learn about Bermuda’s culture and history, there is no better stop on your vacation itinerary than the Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art!

Museum Hours: Monday-Saturday | 10:00am - 4:00pm Closed on all Public Holidays.

Entry is $5. Free for members and children under 12. Museum is handicapped accessible with ramps and an elevator.

Tel: 441 236-2950 • Fax: 441 236-4402 email: mworks@logic.bm

Private tours can be arranged and more information can be found on our website

The Botanical Gardens 183 South Road Paget DV o4 • Bermuda

www.bermudamasterworks.com

Gutter edge

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Bermuda Sun

The ultimate insider’s view of our island! Pick up a copy at your hotel or when you visit a convenience store for the latest news on Ding ding! Boxer hears wedding bells

the island or visit us online at bermudasun.bm. Bermuda Sun is the people’s

BEYOND THE HEADLINES www.berm udasun.b m

Attack on nursery

Vandals start fire and wreck

PAGE 3

paper which gets to the heart of

office.

KNOCK-OUT: Boxer Teresa ■ PHOTO BY RAS MYKKAL ny in November. Although Perozzi is getting married to her number one supporter Andre Outerbridge she jokes that Andre isn’t always been there for much of an athlete, she in a beach ceremoher for calls him her “diamond See page two for full story. the last four-and-a-half years. The couple in the rough” as he’s met because their sons were best friends at school.

SPECIAL REPORT

Up for some family fun?

Comedy duo 2 Fools promise will be a ‘day of mayhem’. Sunday

PAGE 13

New home for Blazers

Boulevard work out deal with Town over St. John’s field. Dandy

SEE SPORTS

Alarm over salary gap

■ ■

www.bermudasun.bm

Erykah Badu, Kenny Rogers among diverse acts for this year’s event.

SEPTEMBER 11, 2009 $1.00

Wednesdays and Fridays.

Portable info for your pocket! Detailed information on some of Bermuda’s best tours, restaurants, activities and destinations that’s easy to take with you. Check out our display stands islandwide at hotels, the airport, cruise terminals and places of interest.

Your source for the most up-to-date information! See what other visitors said about their Bermuda travels. Share your pictures and memories. Make reservations & get travel tips. Get help from our online concierge. Sign up for our newsletter. Check the weather & events calendar. Find all the places you want to go using our interactive maps.

Inside: Race and the workplace

different job categories and ■ Jobs breakdown Startling figures that reveals that black Bermudian for those who believe that $8,000 less than white clerks earn expose huge gaps in the discrimination is the Bermudian clerks root earning power of blacks ■ Blacks earn less cause of the black/white than whites in 7 out of and whites have raised 9 job categories earning gap, it makes ■ CURE says racism for helps fuel economic inequality fresh concerns about grim reading. racial ■ ‘Why do whites discrimination in the with no qualifications White Bermudian earn almost as much as blacks who hold degrees?’ workplace. ‘clerks’, for example, make ■ Salary gap ‘more And employers who $8,000 a year more than about negligence than ill will’ attempt to downplay black Bermudian clerks. disparities by blaming SEE PAGES 4-6 The figures, compiled by them largely on differences the Department of in skill sets and experience Statistics last year, show employment survey, are probably “in denial”, which that blacks make discrimination and provides a slew of other say race activists. significantly less than suggested that earning eye-opening statistics. For the year 2007-8, the whites in seven of nine power should be broken When the figures were median annual income major job categories down into specific job for released last week, (see types blacks was $50,539, while table on page 4). to get a more reliable employers were quick for whites it was 41.7 to The biggest disparity picture. per question the way they cent higher at $71,607. were exists The in This the Bermuda ‘Senior presented, offered Sun has from Government’s 2009 Officials and Managers’ since obtained a breakexplanations other than down of salaries in See SALARY GAP, page BUSINESS 7; COMMENT 4 5 & 6;

Festival stars unveiled

INSIDE TODAY:

a critical watchdog role. Published

to-go!

bermuda.com

New figures detail huge gap between blacks Employers who rule outearning discrimination as a cause and whites ‘in denial’

BY DON BURGESS

dburgess@bermudasun.bm

PAGE 3

the stories that matter and serves

bermuda.com

CROSSWORD 25; FAITH 27; HOROSCOPE 18; JOBS 33; LEGALS 38; MOVIES 20; SCENE 13

‘Injustice is a sixth sense, and rouses all the others’ — Amelia E. Barr

concierge@bermuda.com

www.bermuda.com

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Please see detailed map

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Please see detailed map

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Spanish Point

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ST GEORGE’S PARISH

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Achilles’ Bay Fort St. Catherine

Toba cco Bay

Ferry stops F1 Hamilton Ferry Terminal F2 Lower Ferry F3 Hodson’s Ferry F4 Salt Kettle F5 Darrell’s Wharf F6 Belmont F7 Rockaway F8 Cavello Bay F9 Watford Bridge F10 Dockyard F11 St. George’s F12 St. David’s

1-17 See St. George’s Map, page 27 18 Bermuda Institute of Ocean Sciences 19 L.F. Wade International Airport 20 Carter House 21 Great Head National Park 22 St. David’s Lighthouse 23-27 Bailey’s Bay — See page 29 28 Bermuda Railway Museum 29 Bermuda Aquarium, Museum and Zoo 30 Flatt’s Bridge 31 Devil’s Hole Aquarium 32 Spittal Pond 33 Verdmont 34 Palm Grove 35 Montpelier Arboretum 36 King Edward VII Hospital 37 Botanical Gardens 38 Camden 39 Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art

40 Waterville 41 Paget Marsh 42-55 See Hamilton Map, page 34 56 Fort Hamilton 57 Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute 58 Johnny Barnes Statue 59 Government House 60 Warwick Pond 61 Christ Church 62 Gibb’s Hill Lighthouse 63 Somerset Bridge 64 Scaur Hill Fort 65 Heydon Trust 66 St. James’ Church 67 Springfield Community Centre & Gilbert Nature Reserve 68 Somerset Village 69-75 See Dockyard Map, page 37 71 National Museum of Bermuda

see the sights

Let Johnny lead the way

Photo by Theresa Airey

Good morning! The always-cheery Johnny Barnes, Bermuda’s goodwill ambassador.

He’s the ultimate ‘morning person’ and a warm greeting from folk hero Johnny Barnes is the ideal way to start your sightseeing tour. Every weekday he’s at Crow Lane roundabout from 6am to 10am, showering city commuters with waves, blown kisses and a smile that could melt the heart of even the most jaded traveller. We begin our tour in the historic former capital, St. George’s. Wherever you go, don’t forget to greet all you meet: as Johnny reminds us each morning — it’s the Bermuda way!

A great w ay to see

Bermuda and all its attractions

B E R M U D A

Public Transportation 26 Palmetto Road Devonshire DV 05 P.O. Box HM 443 Hamilton HM BX, Bermuda

Telephone: (441) 292-3851 Fax: (441) 292-9996 E-Mail: info@ptb.bm Internet: www.BermudaBuses.com

bermuda.com guide 25

see the sights

Car rentals are not permitted in Bermuda.

Using our maps

Parishes

It’s easy to find your way around Bermuda. There are four main arteries: South Road runs along the south shore, North Shore Road hugs the north shore, Middle Road runs through the centre of the island and Harbour Road follows the inner harbour across from Hamilton. Each road brings you into the city of Hamilton. Key attractions are numbered on our maps and described in the text. Use our large pullout map (between pages 24 & 25) for an island overview; for a map of St. George’s, see page 27, the city of Hamilton on 34, and Dockyard on 37. Also, ‘W’ at the end of a listing denotes ‘wheelchair accessible’.

In 1610, Admiral Sir George Somers, a survivor of the wreck of the Sea Venture (which carried our first settlers), returned to Bermuda to obtain food for the starving Virginia colony. By 1615 the Somers Island Company was developing Bermuda and exploiting her natural resources. What is now St. George’s Parish was set aside as public or company land. The remainder was divided into eight tribes or parishes, named after the principal shareholders in the Somers Island Company. These were, from east to west: Hamilton, Smith’s, Devonshire, Pembroke, Paget, Warwick, Southampton and Sandys. Along with St. George’s, they have become the nine parishes of Bermuda.

Bus Schedule

Route Fare Leaving Hamilton’s Central Number Zone Bus Terminal (time past the hour)

Airport

1, 3, 10, 11

Aquarium

10 11

Belmont Hotel

Botanical Gardens

1, 2, 7

Caves (Crystal and Leamington)

1, 3

Dockyard

7, 8

Elbow Beach

2, 7

Gibbs Hill Lighthouse

Grotto Bay Hotel

1, 3, 10, 11

Horseshoe Bay Beach

Hospital

1, 2, 7

Mangrove Bay (Somerset)

7, 8

National Museum of Bermuda

7, 8

Bermuda Perfumery

1, 3, 10, 11

John Smith’s Bay Beach

Fairmont Southampton Princess Hotel 7, 8

Town of St. George

26 bermuda.com guide

1, 3, 10, 11

see the sights

Mark Twain: “I’d rather go to Bermuda.”

13 14

Old Rectory

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SOMERS GARDEN

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Old

The Bermuda Perfumery

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Duke of Kent Street

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ST. GEORGE’S

To Unfinished Church & Fort St. Catherine St. George’s Historical Society Museum Printery & Museum

Square

Ducking Stool

et Stre

7 Sir George Somers Statue

Deliverance

Ordnance Island Cruise Ship Terminal

World

5 Heritage

ST. GEORGES’S HARBOUR

Centre

Cruise ship terminal

Penno’s Wharf

ST. GEORGE’S PARISH Bermuda’s oldest town, St. George’s, was settled in 1609-10 and became a World Heritage Site in 2000. It was our capital from 1612 until 1815, when Hamilton became the capital. 1-17 are on our detailed map above. 1 St. Peter’s Church, Duke of York St., is the oldest Anglican church in the New World still in use. Open Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm, Services Wed 7:30am, Sun 11:15am. Suggested donation of $5 per adult. Call ahead for group visits. Tel: 297-2459 2 Bermuda National Trust Museum at the Globe Hotel, corner Duke of York St & King’s Square. Built by Governor

Samuel Day, circa 1700. The offices of the Confederate agent, Major Norman Walker, were housed here during the American Civil War (1861-1865). The museum highlights Bermuda’s American Civil War involvement along with a video presentation ‘Bermuda: Centre of the Atlantic’. Open Wed, Fri & Sat 10am-4pm. Tel: 236-6483 to confirm. Closed on Public Holidays. Admission: adults $5, children (6-18 years) $2. Gift Shop. *Combination tickets to all three museums $10 (#2 Bermuda National Trust Museum, #3 Tucker House, #33 Verdmont). 3 Tucker House, Water Street. Built in the 1750s. Henry Tucker, President of the Governor’s Council, moved here in 1775 and his family stayed until 1809. On view are

bermuda.com guide 27

see the sights

Use pink bus stops for travel into Hamilton

antique heirlooms from one of Bermuda’s oldest families and also a room furnished as a tribute to Joseph Rainey, the first black man to be seated in the U.S. House of Representatives. The cellar houses are a permanent archaeological exhibit. Open Wed, Thur & Sat, 10am-2pm. Tel: 236-6483 to confirm. Admission: adults $5, children (6-18 years) $2. *Combination tickets to all three museums $10 (#2 National Trust Museum, #3 Tucker House, #33 Verdmont). 4 St. George’s Post Office, open Mon-Fri 8am-5pm. Tel: 297-1610 5 World Heritage Centre, at Penno’s Wharf in the Queen’s Warehouse, circa 1860. History is brought to life through the St. George’s Foundation’s restoration of this building. Enjoy the Orientation Exhibits Gallery, ‘A Gateway to Bermuda’. Open MonSat 10am-4pm. Tel: 297-5791. W (wheelchair accessible) 6 Stocks & Pillory and the Ducking Stool re-enactment at King’s Square. See the ‘gossiping wench’ get ducked in the har-

28 bermuda.com guide

bour. Noon on Wednesdays & Saturdays. 7 Deliverance, a full-scale replica of the Bermuda-built barque, located across the bridge from King’s Square on Ordnance Island. Open 10am-4pm, Mon-Sat. Tel: 297-0045 8 Town Hall, facing King’s Square, the meeting place of the Corporation of St. George’s. Open 9am-4pm, Mon-Sat except holidays. Olde Towne Market on Sundays, 2-6pm. W 9 State House, above and behind the Town Hall, one of the island’s oldest stone buildings, dating from 1620. Originally the seat of government, now a masonic lodge. 10 The Bermudian Heritage Museum, junction of York & Water streets, showcases accomplishments of black Bermudians. Open Mon-Fri, 10am-3 pm. Adults $4, seniors & children $2. Tel: 297-4126 11 St. George’s Historical Society Museum, Printery & Garden, Featherbed Alley. This historic house, a museum since 1922, features cedar furniture, paintings, and other local relics along with a replica of an early 15th-century Gutenberg press. Closed December. January to March, Wednesdays only, 10am-4 pm. Adults $5, children $2. Tel: 297-0423 12 The Old Rectory, Broad Alley, behind St. Peter’s Church. Captain George Dew built this Bermuda cottage circa 1699. Architecturally it shows similarities to buildings of the same period in the U.S. State of Virginia. A private residence owned by the Bermuda National Trust. Exterior viewing only. Tel: 236-6483 13 Unfinished Church. Top of Duke of Kent St. This magnificent Gothic structure was meant to be a replacement for St. Peter’s Church. Started in the 1870s it was beset by financial difficulties, parish infighting and a damaging storm. It was abandoned on the eve of its completion. 14 Fort St. Catherine, off Barry Road. 19th century fort contains cannon, guns, military exhibits. Open Mon-Fri, 9:30am4pm. Adults $7, children 5 to 15, $3 (must

and blue for heading away from the city. be accompanied by an adult), seniors $5. Tel: 297-1920 W 15 Gates Fort dates from the early 17th century. Originally a small sea battery of three guns. Open during daylight hours. 16 Somers Garden, Duke of York Street. Admiral Sir George Somers was shipwrecked on a reef before settlement. When he died in Bermuda his heart was buried here and his body was taken to England. Open daily 7:30am-4:30pm 17 The Bermuda Perfumery is located in historic Stewart Hall, 5 Queen Street. For more than 80 years, the Bermuda Perfumery has been creating and manufacturing perfumes and all are made on the premises. Take a free tour and sample unique fragrances. Open Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm. Tel: 293-0627 Refer to the large pullout map. 18 Bermuda Institute of Ocean Sciences, Ferry Reach. On Wednesdays at 10am, visit this world-renowned research station. Take a free tour of the laboratories, grounds and learn about ongoing projects.  www.bios.edu Tel: 297-1880 19 L.F. Wade International Airport 20 Carter House. An historic old stone structure built by one of Bermuda’s first settlers around 1640. Open Saturdays only, 10am-4pm. Tel: 293-5960 21 Great Head National Park. At the end of Battery Road, St. David’s, lies a 20th century abandoned fortification surrounded by open spaces, plus a Lost at Sea Memorial. 22 St. David’s Lighthouse. Stands at the top of Lighthouse Hill Road. Open Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm. Free. For the Park Ranger, Tel: 236-5902.

see the sights

Hole Hill to the junction of Wilkinson Ave & North Shore Rd. You are now in Bailey’s Bay. 24 Blue Hole Hill Park. Located just over the Causeway, the park joins Walsingham Nature Reserve and provides an excellent walking trail. 25 Crystal Caves, 8 Crystal Caves Rd, Hamilton Parish. Formed more than 30 million years ago, Crystal Cave Road was discovered in 1905 when 14-year-old Bernard Wilkinson stumbled upon a cave opening. He was later lowered down the 140-foot drop where he saw the magnificent crystal stalactites and stalagmites that surround a clear 55-foot deep lake. Tours 9:30am4:30pm year round. One cave, adults $20, children (under 13) $8, (under 5) free. Combination tickets, adults $27, children (under 13) $10, (under five) free. Last combination tour starts 3.45pm. Tel: 293-0640 26 Holy Trinity Church, Trinity Church Road. The Anglican Church of Hamilton Parish offers a scenic and tranquil respite from sightseeing. 27 Tom Moore’s Jungle, Bailey’s Bay. Woods surrounding Tom Moore’s Tavern are a must for nature lovers. The poet Tom Moore spent happy hours writing verses here. Tours are available for groups via the

HAMILTON PARISH Named after James Hamilton, second Marquis of Hamilton, an original member of Somers islands Company. Refer to the large pullout map. 23 After leaving the Causeway go up Blue

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Tranquil Somers Garden in St. George’s is an ideal stop for a stroll or a picnic.

bermuda.com guide 29

see the sights

Bermuda’s capital city, Hamilton, is

Parks Dept., Tel: 236-5902 or 293-1785. 28 Bermuda Railway Museum and Curiosity Shop. Learn the full history of our long-defunct railway. The gift shop features antiques and artefacts. For opening hours Tel: 293-1774.

SMITH’S PARISH Named after one of the nine chief investors of the Somers Isles (Bermuda) Company, Sir Thomas Smith. Refer to the large pullout map. 29 The Bermuda Aquarium, Museum

& Zoo boasts native fish, exotic reptiles, free-flying birds, and pink flamingos in a beautiful, colourful setting. Exhibits include ‘North Rock’, a 140,000-gallon replica of a local coral reef, and ‘Islands of Australasia’, the interactive ‘Discovery Cove’ and scenic ‘Coastal Walkway’. The Natural History Museum focuses on the island’s geology, native biodiversity and habitats. Open daily 9am-5pm. (last admission 4pm). Adults $10, children (5-12 years) $5. Tel: 293-2727 W 30 Flatts Bridge. Wander across to quaint Flatts Village with its magnificent views of the Inlet and Harrington Sound. 31 Devil’s Hole Aquarium, Harrington Sound Road: Bermuda’s oldest attraction

features a natural aquarium where you can see a 75-year-old turtle and try to catch a large fish. Closed until second week in March. Adults $10, children under 12 $5, seniors $5. Tel. 293-2072 32 Spittal Pond, South Road. This 64-acre reserve is part of a necklace of wetlands along the south shore, providing a diversity of habitats and a wide variety of birds, especially during migration seasons. Owned by Bermuda National Trust and Government’s Parks Dept. Open daily dawn to dusk, admission free. Tel: 236-6483 33 Verdmont, corner of Collector’s Hill & Sayle Road. A National Trust museum built about 1710 in the Georgian style, Verdmont houses our finest collection of antique Bermuda cedar furniture, porcelain, portraits, children’s furniture and toys. A new exhibit highlights the people who lived at Verdmont. Open Wednesdays, 10am-4pm. Closed holidays. Adults $5, children (6-18 years) $2. *Combination tickets to all three museums $10 (#2 Bermuda National Trust Museum, #3 Tucker House, #33 Verdmont). Tel: 236-6483.

DEVONSHIRE PARISH Named after William Cavendish, 1st Earl of Devonshire. Refer to the large pullout map. 34 Palm Grove, South Road. Wellmanicured private estate has an unusual bas-relief ‘water map’ of Bermuda, an aviary and many varieties of palms. Open Mon-Thur 9am-5pm (closed holidays). 35 Montpelier Arboretum, Middle Road. A tranquil retreat featuring a wide range of island trees and plants.

PAGET PARISH Named after William Paget, 4th Baron Paget de Beaudesert. Photo by Terri Mello

Spittal Pond borders a dairy farm and is a great spot to take the kids for an adventure walk.

30 bermuda.com guide

Refer to the large pullout map. 36 King Edward VII Memorial Hospital,

antipode to Perth, Western Australia. Point Finger Road. See page 45. Tel: 2362345 37 Botanical Gardens, Berry Hill, Point Finger & South roads. Open daily sunrise to sunset. Enjoy hundreds of well-marked flowers, shrubs and trees. Admission free. Tours on Tue, Wed & Fri at 10:30am, departing from the car park outside the entrance to the Visitors’ Centre, weather permitting. Tearoom & gift shop open Mon-Fri 10am3:30pm. To confirm, Tel: 236-5291 38 Camden, South Road, in the grounds of the Botanical Gardens. Official residence of the Premier, used for official functions only. Open Tues & Fri noon-2pm, weather permitting. 39 Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art. Permanent collection includes Bermuda inspired work by Winslow Homer and Georgia O’Keeffe, plus changing exhibits. Open Mon-Sat 10am-4pm, closed public holidays. Adults $5, children under 12 free. Tel: 236-2950 W 40 Waterville. An elegant house, built circa 1725, now the HQ of the National Trust. See the Bermuda Rose Society’s showcase garden and the Mary-Jean Mitchell Green Memorial Garden & Gazebo. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, admission free. Tel: 236-6483 41 Paget Marsh and Boardwalk, Paget Parish. Lush 25-acre nature reserve, a joint project of the Bermuda National Trust & Bermuda Audubon Society. The pond and marsh attract many birds. Open daily, daylight hours, free. Tel: 236-6483

PEMBROKE PARISH Home of our capital city of Hamilton since 1815. Refer to large pullout map and see our detailed City Map on page 34. 42 Barr’s Bay Park, on Hamilton Harbour beside the Royal Bermuda Yacht Club on Pitt’s Bay Road. Sit in the sun and watch the boats sail by. W 43 Point Pleasant Park by the waterfront, Albuoys Point, next to the Ferry Terminal.

see the sights

Relax on a bench, bring a picnic lunch. W 44 The Birdcage, a photogenic traffic kiosk at the corner of Front & Queen streets. 45 Perot Post Office, Queen Street. An architectural gem and a handy spot to buy stamps, transport passes, tickets and tokens. Credit cards accepted. Open MonFri 9am-5pm W 46 Bermuda National Public Library & Historical Society Museum, Queen Street. Set in the gardens of Par-la-Ville Park. Library open Mon-Thurs 8:30am-7pm (July & Aug until 6pm), Fri 10am-5pm, Sat 9am5pm, Sun 1pm-5pm (closed Sun in July and Aug). Tel: 295-2905. Museum open 10am-2pm Mon-Fri (May–Sept); 10:30am– 1pm Mon, Tues, Wed, Fri (Oct–April) closed holidays. Free. Tel: 295-2487 W 47 City Hall, 17 Church Street, one of Hamilton’s most beautiful public buildings. Houses City Hall Theatre, the Mayor’s Parlour and Corporation of Hamilton offices and the Bermuda National Gallery (tel: 295-9428), featuring both historic and contemporary local and international art. Open Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat 10am-2pm, closed holidays. Guided tours Thursdays, 10:30am. Free. Also home to the Bermuda Society of Arts Gallery, which hosts rotating exhibitions. Open Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat 10am-2pm, closed holidays. Free. Tel: 292-3824 W 48 Central Bus Terminal, Washington Street, close to City Hall. All routes serving Hamilton arrive and leave from here. See page 26 49 Par-la-Ville Park, Queen Street, Hamilton. A haven for relaxation in the middle of our bustling city. 50 Victoria Park, Cedar Avenue. Lovely park created in the 1880s to commemorate the Golden Jubilee of Queen Victoria. 51 Anglican Cathedral, Church Street, a neo-Gothic city landmark. Open 7:30am5pm. The cathedral tower, with panoramic views of the city, is open 9am-4pm Mon-Fri. Audio tours $3, tower entry $3. Tel: 2924033 W bermuda.com guide 31

rendezvous Activities Lots to see and do. while visiting Bermuda experience our wonderful culture through our daily activities starting from novemBer 1, 2010 until march 31, 2011. most of the activities listed are Free unless otherwise indicated, see rendezvous Brochure for full details and prices.

MON DAY

Ocean View Golf Course, 9-hole, par 35 (2,940 yards), tel. 295-9093. Enquire about special rates.

Visitor Golf Tournament ~ Southampton* 8:30 a.m. – 12 noon Port Royal Golf Course, par 71 (6,842 yards), tel 234-0974. 50% discount on greens fees = $90.00 p/p inclusive of cart for 18-holes. Club rentals $25.00.

The Bermuda Institute of Ocean Sciences Tour ~ St. George’s 10:00 a.m. Learn BIOS’ history, meet some of the scientists, see the labs. A tour for everyone including children over eleven years.

Guided Walking Tour ~ City of Hamilton 10:00 a.m. A tour past some of Bermuda’s historic points of interest. Departs Bermuda National Library’s verandah on Queen Street and ends at Fort Hamilton for the performance of the Skirling Ceremony.

11:00 a.m. Learn about the powerful role

Historical Re-enactment in the Town of St. George & Town Tour ~ St. George’s 10:30 a.m. A guided tour of this historic old town. Meet in King’s Square. 11:45 a.m. The Mayor greets visitors back in King’s Square. 12 noon Ducking – light-hearted, historical re-enactment of public punishment.

Skirling Ceremony ~ City of Hamilton

Botanical Gardens Tour ~ Paget 10:30 a.m. Meet at the Berry Hill entrance near the Botanical Gardens Visitor’s Centre.

Sessions House Tour ~ City of Hamilton

Parliament plays in Bermuda. Meet at the door for a 45-minute tour.

12 noon Authentic kilted pipers, drummers and

dancers perform to the bagpipe ‘skirl’ of the Bermuda Islands Pipe Band. ~ Fort Hamilton

T U E S DAY Botanical Gardens Tour ~ Paget 10:30 a.m. Meet at the Berry Hill entrance near the Botanical Gardens Visitor’s Centre. 12 noon – 2:00 p.m. Visit historic ‘Camden’, Tuesdays and Fridays (unless official functions are scheduled). Bermuda Gombey Revue ~ City of Hamilton 4:00 p.m. An exciting, historic Bermuda folk art event. Be sure to bring your camera! ~ No. 6 Passenger Terminal, Front Street

W E DN E S DAY Visitor Golf Tournament ~ Devonshire*

Chit Chat ~ R.N. Dockyard* 10:00 a.m. A fun and fascinating sharing of dolphin behaviours, facts and fiction. ~ Dolphin Quest in the National Museum of Bermuda ~ Admission to the National Museum of Bermuda is required: $10 adults, $8 seniors and children 13 years and under free. Bermuda Cookery Demonstration ~ City of Hamilton 2:30 p.m. – 4:00 p.m. Bermudian chef Cheryl Kerr shares local flavours. ~ No. 6 Passenger Terminal, Front Street

T H U R S DAY Visitor Golf Tournament ~ Southampton* 8:30 a.m. – 12 noon Port Royal Golf Course, par 71 (6,842 yards), tel 234-0974. ~ See Monday

Somerset Walk & Slide Show ~ Somerset 10:00 a.m. Learn about our history, architecture and old-time medicinal use of plants and herbs. 11:15 a.m. An informative 20-minute audio-visual tour of Bermuda highlights follow the Tour. ~ Walk departs Country Squire Restaurant and returns for the Slide Show Dockyard Glassworks ~ R.N. Dockyard

1:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m. Glassworks is

an exciting experience, whether it is flame working or glass-blowing. ~ Dockyard Glassworks

Hands on Craft ~ R.N. Dockyard 1:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m. Learn the techniques of working with natural foliage or paper. ~ Bermuda Craft Market

Dockyard defences and ship repairs form the basis of today’s walk. ~ Meet at the Anchor Fountain outside Clocktower Building Dockyard Glassworks ~ R.N. Dockyard 1:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m. Create your own masterpiece and taste the freshly baked Bermuda-made cake with a twist! ~ Dockyard Glassworks Hands on Craft ~ R.N. Dockyard 1:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m. Learn the technique of 3-dimensional paper art, wire wrapping and the use of fibre optics in jewellery. ~ Bermuda Craft Market

Discovering the Royal Naval Dockyard 2:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m. Explore the architecture, architects and builders of this Victorian Dockyard. ~ Meet in front of the Cooperage on Maritime Lane

Taste of Bermuda Calypso Sundays ~ R.N. Dockyard 1:30 – 3:30 p.m. Experience Bermuda by tasting our delectable pepper jams, rum cakes, locally brewed beer and ginger beer while listening to a Calypso band. ~ Bermuda Craft Market

Folk Medicine: Yesterday and Today ~ City of Hamilton 2:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m. Herb and plant medicines used by early settlers and modern day folk remedies. ~ No. 6 Passenger Terminal, Front Street

SalSaMaNIa laTIN NIGHT OuT Have a fun time learning the art of Salsa through choreographed routines from an instructor. For a great time visit www.bermudasalsa.com.

F R I DAY Botanical Gardens Tour ~ Paget 10:30 a.m. See Tuesday for details

SAT U R DAY ‘Old Town’ Tour ~ St. George’s 10:30 a.m. A one-hour walking tour through the old town. ~ Meet in King’s Square 11:45 a.m. The Mayor gives a personal greeting to all. 12 noon Ducking – light-hearted, historical re-enactment of public punishment. Dolphin Show ~ R.N. Dockyard* 3:00 p.m. ~ Admission to the National Museum of Bermuda is required: $10 adults, $8 seniors and children 13 years and under free

S U N DAY Royal Naval Dockyard Tour

11:30 a.m. – 12:30 p.m. The

TalkING aBOuT BeRMuDa This is a FREE lecture series that features a variety of topics, each one held in a cultural venue and on weekdays during November 1, 2010 – March 29, 2011. Full schedule included in the Bermuda Rendezvous Activities brochure. Enquiries regarding Bermuda Rendezvous Activities programme, call or visit: the Department of Community and Cultural Affairs, tel 292-9447, or one of our Visitor Information Centres: next to the Ferry Terminal, Front Street, Hamilton, tel 295-1480; in the World Heritage Centre, Penno’s Wharf, Town of St. George, tel 297-5791; in Gazebo #2 Dockyard Terrace, R.N. Dockyard, tel 238-4842. * Indicates a fee or admission is required. Information correct at press time, Nov.2010 and is subject to change. NOTE: Some activities may not be available due to a public holiday. Refer to the brochure for full details.

HAMILTON

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Chamber of Commerce

Ferry Terminal

Albouys Point

Royal POINT Bermuda Yacht Club PLEASANT 43

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Queen Street

44 Flag Pole

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Burnaby Street

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Wesley Street

46 45

Bus Terminal

No 6 Passenger Terminal

Reid Street

51 52

Church Street

Cathedral

Victoria Street

H.M. Customs

Cenotaph

The Cabinet Building

Sessions House

Dept. of Tourism

Front Street

Reid Street

57-58 Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute

Fort Hamilton

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Fire Department

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King Street

PAR-LAVILLE PARK

Church Street

50 VICTORIA PARK

Dundonald Street

Court Street

City Hall

Victoria Street

Park Road

Dundonald Street King Street

Historical Society Museum

I Visitor Information Centre

T Taxi

see the sights Just wide enough for a mast, Somerset

Bridge is the world’s smallest drawbridge. 52 General Post Office, corner of Parliament & Church streets. Open Mon-Fri 8am5pm, Sat 8am-noon W 53 Sessions House & Jubilee Clock Tower. The House of Assembly (lower house of parliament) meets Fridays at 10am. Visitors are permitted in the gallery; dress appropriately. Tel: 292-7408. The Supreme Court is located on the lower floor of the Sessions House. Visitors are permitted.  Free tours Mon-Thurs 10am & 2.30pm. Tel: 292-1350 W 54 The Cabinet Building, Front and Parliament streets. Here the Senate (our upper house) meets Wednesdays at 10am. Visitors are permitted. Fronted by the Cenotaph on Front Street, a memorial to war veterans. Tel: 292-5501 55 Bermuda National Library Youth Division, 74 Church Street. Open MonThurs & Sat 9am-5pm, Fri 10am-5pm.  Tel: 295-0487 56 Fort Hamilton, approached by Victoria & King streets & Happy Valley Road. A restored fort, its moat is filled with native plants and shrubs. Spectacular views of the city and harbour. Open daily 9am-5pm. Free. W 57 The Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute (BUEI), a 10-minute walk from the city centre on East Broadway. Features two floors of interactive exhibits revealing the mysteries of the ocean. Experience deep-sea exploration through the eyes of world-renowned explorers including Bermuda’s own Teddy Tucker. See artefacts and treasure recovered from shipwrecks around Bermuda. Gift shop and waterside restaurant, The Harbourfront. Open Mon–Fri 9am-5pm, Sat & Sun 10am-5pm. Last admission 4pm. Members free, adults $12.50, seniors $10, children (7-16) $6, children (under 6) free. Tel: 297-7314 W 58 Johnny Barnes Statue. Just down the road from the BUEI, a life-size statue of our unofficial ambassador of goodwill, Johnny

see the sights

Barnes (see page 25), by sculptor Desmond Fountain. 59 Government House, North Shore Road & Langton Hill. The imposing residence of His Excellency the Governor.

WARWICK PARISH Centrally located with many beautiful beaches along the South Shore. Refer to the large pullout map. 60 Warwick Pond. Take a walk on the interpretive woodland nature trail in this nine-acre nature reserve, with Bermuda’s second largest freshwater pond. Open daylight hours. 61 Christ Church, historic Presbyterian Church of Scotland dating back to 1719, one of the oldest in the western hemisphere.

SOUTHAMPTON PARISH Boasts many beaches including the most popular, Horseshoe Bay Beach. Refer to the large pullout map. 62 Gibbs Hill Lighthouse provides panoramic views and there’s a restaurant, too, The Dining Room (tel: 238-8679). For winter opening hours for the lighthouse tel: 238-8069. Adults $2.50, children (4 and under) free.

SANDYS PARISH (Somerset) The western-most parish, made up of five islands. Refer to the large pullout map. 63 Somerset Bridge is the smallest drawbridge in the world; just wide enough to let the mast of a sailboat pass through. 64 Scaur Hill Fort, Somerset Road. Enjoy breathtaking views of the Great Sound and Ely’s Harbour. Open daily 7:30am4pm, free. Grounds open 24 hours. Tel: 234-0908 65 Heydon Trust, 43 acres of meticulously preserved grounds, filled with

bermuda.com guide 35

see the sights

We have no streams or rivers. Royal Naval Dockyard T Taxi

Dockyard Glassworks & Bermuda Rum Cake Company

Bermuda Clayworks

Snorkel Park Beach

Maritime Lane

Storehouse Lane

Cloc ktow er P arad e

THE CAMBER

69 Watersports Centre

Clocktower Shopping Mall

Victualling Yard

Dockyard

DOCKYARD GATE

Bermuda Arts Centre

Camber Road

THE KEEP

Bermuda Craft Market

Commissioner’s House

National Museum of Bermuda

Visitor Information Centre

Dolphin Quest

No rth

Dockyard Marina

Arm

Ferry Stop

Visitor Information Centre

Cruise Ship Terminal

KING’S WHARF

Visitor Information Centre

indigenous plants. The tiny, exquisite chapel was built in the 1620s. Open daily, dawn till dusk, free. 66 St. James’ Church, the Anglican church of Somerset, has a graceful spire and imposing walkway. 67 Springfield Community Centre & Gilbert Nature Reserve, Somerset. This National Trust Property once comprised a small plantation. Springfield, the old mansion with buttery and slave quarters dates back to 1740. Five acres of walking trails. 68 Somerset Village overlooks charming Mangrove Bay. Stop for a meal or some shopping. 69 Enter the Royal Naval Dockyard through stone gates. This major attraction includes the National Museum of Bermuda, Clocktower Mall, Craft Market, the Bermuda Arts Centre and restaurants — all housed in restored naval buildings. 70 Dockyard Visitor Information Centre is near the fast ferry dock. Open daily, 9am5pm. Tel: 799-4842 71 The National Museum of Bermuda includes the Commissioner’s House, which exhibits our rich nautical history and

HERITAGE WHARF

extensive artefact collections. Open daily, 10am-4pm, last admission 3pm. Adults $10, senior citizens $8 and children under 13 free, if accompanied by an adult. Tel: 234-1418 72 Dolphin Quest Bermuda, Dockyard. Enjoy an extraordinary encounter with dolphins. Open 9:30am-4:30pm daily. Reservations required. www.dolphinquest.org  Tel: 234-4464 or toll free 800-248-3316 73 The Craft Market in the Old Cooperage features Bermuda cedar work, candle and jewellery making, pottery, banana dolls and many other crafts, with demonstrations by local artisans. Open daily 10am-5pm and until 8pm when cruise ships are in port. Tel: 234-3208 W 74 The Bermuda Arts Centre features studios housing various artists which change every few weeks. A shop offers an extensive range of locally made gifts, paintings, sculptures and a wide print selection. Open daily 10am-5pm (closed Good Friday & Christmas Day). Tel: 234-2809 W 75 Clocktower Shopping Mall boasts a delightful collection of boutiques and branch stores in a charming, covered mall. W

bermuda.com guide 37

sightseeing Our best historic sites By Lance Furbert | For an island of just 21 square miles, we pack in a lot of history. Bermuda’s superb historic sites and museums help tell our unique story but also help unravel the extraordinary saga of the development of English settlements in the New World.

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Quaint Carter House in St. David’s is more than 300 years old.

Here are some of our best historic sites. National Museum of Bermuda The largest collection of artifacts and weapons in Bermuda. Slave artifacts, gold bars, jewellery, silver coins, pottery, boats of all kinds and large muzzle loading guns can be seen here. Located at Dockyard. Open daily 10am–4pm (last admission 3pm). Tel: 234-1418

Carter House Built more than three centuries ago by the descendants of Christopher Carter, one of two crew members of the shipwrecked Sea Venture who remained in Bermuda when the survivors sailed for Virginia in 1610. Home to the St David’s Island Historical Society Museum and its exhibitions of whaling, farming and many other aspects of local history and culture. Southside, St. David’s. For opening times, Tel: 293-5960

Bermudian Heritage Museum Located in the Samaritan Lodge Building in St. George’s and part of the African Diaspora Heritage Trail. Exhibits mark the accomplishments of black people in Bermuda, the story of the slave ship Enterprise

38 bermuda.com guide

and a history of the Friendly Societies. Open Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm. Tel: 297-4126

National Trust Museum The Globe Hotel on the northwest corner of King’s Square in St. George’s was bult in 1700 by Governor Samuel Day as our second Government House. It now houses the Bermuda National Trust Museum, which features the exhibit ‘Rogues & Runners — Bermuda and the American Civil War’. Open Wed, Fri & Sat, 10am-4pm. Tel: 236-6483

Verdmont A delightful Georgian style historic home at the top of Collector’s Hill, Smith’s Parish. A superb collection of antique Bermuda cedar and mahogany furniture plus an exhibit detailing the history of the house and surrounding farmland. Open Wed, 10am-4pm Tel: 236-6483

Bermuda Historical Society Museum Located in Par-la-Ville Park, Hamilton, it was the home of Bermuda’s famous postmaster William Bennet Perot. Exhibits include models of ships associated with Bermuda’s

what’s on sightseeing

Slavery was abolished here in 1834. early history such as the Sea Venture, Deliverance and Patience; Sir George Somers’ sea chest and lodestone; plus a collection of early Bermudian coins and silver. Open Mon, Tues, Wed & Fri, 10:30am-1pm. Tel: 295-2487

azine, weapons of all types (from pistols to large muzzle loading guns), the British Crown Jewels in replica and an audiovisual presentation on Bermuda’s forts. Open Mon-Fri, 9:30am-4pm. Tel: 297-1920

Tucker House

Built by Governor Nathaniel Butler in 1620. It’s the oldest standing non-military English building in the New World. Surrounded by magnificent historic architecture and quaint streets and alleys — the most historic English neighbourhood in the New World. Just off King’s Square, St. George’s.

The State House

Tucker House, on Water Street, St. George’s, was the home of Henry Tucker, President of the Governor’s Council. Artifacts and portraits of the famous Tucker family include St. George Tucker of Virginia and Thomas Tudor Tucker, the longest serving treasurer of the U.S.. Joseph Hayne Rainey, the first African American elected member of the U.S. House of Representatives, once ran a barber shop in the building. Open Wed, Thu & Sat 10am2pm. Tel: 236-6483

St. Peter’s Church

The oldest Anglican Church site in continuous use in the western hemisphere. The first church on the site was built by Governor Richard Moore in 1612 and there are many Fort St. Catherine ancient artifacts inside. Some headstones Overlooks Gate’s Bay, St. George’s, the in the churchyard date back more than 300 landing place of the Sea Venture castyears. Duke Of York Street, St. George’s. Bermuda.com 1-2 2010 winter ad_Layout 2Open 11/8/10 3:1610am-4pm. PM PageServices 1 aways in 1609. Features dioramas that Mon-Sat, Wed highlight our early history, a restored mag7:30am, Sun 11:15am. Tel: 297-2459 n

National Treasure Visit the spectacular 16 acres of the NATIONAL MUSEUM OF BERMUDA, home to 500 years of Island culture and history. Explore exciting exhibits in our historic military buildings— and watch for many more as we grow!

Royal Naval Dockyard, Sandys Tel. 441-234-1418 • www.bmm.bm Open every day 10am–4pm (last admission 3pm)

NATIONALMUSEUM BERMUDA OF

Incorporating BERMUDA MARITIME MUSEUM

bermuda.com guide 39

real estate The St. George’s Club

Photo by kageaki smith

The charming St. George’s Club, which offers timeshare opportunities.

Own a bit of ‘The Rock’ Many visitors, seduced by our subtropical climate, historic charm and pink sand beaches, return to Bermuda year after year. Americans in particular often seek to make the relationship a little more permanent, through timeshares or fractional ownership. As a non-Bermudian you are not permitted to buy property outright unless you have more than $5million to spend, so it’s a more affordable way to claim a small piece of ‘The Rock’. And it enables you to share your love of the island with friends and family for generations to come. Prices vary of course but you might get into the market at the $150,000 to $400,000 range. Check with a local realtor through our website, bermuda.com, for more information. Names that will come up include The Reefs Club, Tucker’s Point Club, Newstead Belmont Hill Golf Resort and Spa — and The St. George’s Club.

Are you dreaming of a Bermuda family holiday? Well, The St. George’s Club can make that dream an affordable reality. Overlooking the historic Town of St. George and the quaint harbor, its clusters of one-bedroom and two bedroom cottages offer all the comforts of home. Fully equipped kitchens make home cooking possible – and an onsite grocery means shopping is close to hand. Don’t feel like cooking? Griffin’s Bistro in the main clubhouse is known for its excellent international cuisine, or dine at Blackbeard’s Hideout the beachside restaurant and bar. Three swimming pools, one heated and one with a pool bar are situated in beautifully manicured and spacious grounds. If you prefer the beach, the complimentary shuttle can take you to The Club’s secluded Achilles Bay. Facilities for the more energetic include three tennis courts, one lit for night play, and a fitness center. The surrounding Golf Course is currently closed but is to be redesigned by Nick Faldo . Golf enthusiasts can also enjoy privileges at the challenging Riddell’s Bay Golf course in Southampton. The bus stop is within close walking distance and the fast ferry to Dockyard and Hamilton is also nearby. You can also explore at your own pace by renting a scooter from the onsite cycle livery. The Club is an RCI Gold Crown Resort which allows members great exchange options at any of RCI’s nearly 4,000 worldwide resort hotels. New members will also be enrolled in The Club’s private travel and cruise program. To learn more, call 297-1222 or visit www.stgeorgesclub.com n bermuda.com guide 41

practicalities

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Safety first: At Wheels Cycles, in the city of Hamilton, you’ll be shown how to ride your rental bike before you leave their yard.

How to stay safe on a rental bike By SIMON JONES | One of the best ways to see Bermuda is on two

wheels. Rental bikes give you easy access to all the best sights and with a warm breeze on your face and the freedom of the open road ahead, you’ll feel 10 years younger! Riding a moped or scooter is easy once you’ve got the hang of it. Follow our tips to stay safe: • Hire from a reputable firm and check the bike is in good condition; • Helmets are mandatory — but useless unless they fit well and are secured properly; • We drive on the left — just like the Brits; • Drive defensively and wear bright clothes to aid your visibility to others; • Wear sneakers or closed-toe shoes — topple off your bike in flip-flops and you could easily lose a digit; • The speed limit is 35kph; stick to it and don’t feel obliged to keep up with other road users; • Leave plenty of space between yourself and other vehicles and don’t get 42 bermuda.com guide

We have no mountains, just gentle hills. too close to the curb; • Never turn around to look behind you while riding; • Never stop on a bend or a hill’s brow; • Drive slower when it’s wet; • When riding in a group, put the slowest rider at the front; • Traffic at roundabouts goes clockwise, so as you approach one, slow down and give way to vehicles coming from the right; • NEVER drink and ride; • On weekdays, avoid rush hour city traffic (7.30-9.30am and 4-6pm). If things go wrong, you might find yourself getting patched up by medics. Most typical, says Dr. Roslyn BascombeAdams, Deputy Chief of Emergency at King Edward VII Memorial Hospital, are “elbow and knee abrasions” resulting from spills. She encourages “extreme caution” on the roads: “Some accidents are

what’s on practicalities

caused because the rider is not used to driving on the left,” she says. “Many say they have been intimidated by cars or trucks and have simply got too close to the curb and come off their bike.” Joseph Arnold, operations manager at Wheels, one of the island’s premier bike rental firms, said: “Customers always get an instructor session with us in the yard. The instructor shows the rider how to operate the bike and makes sure they are comfortable riding it. The helmet is one of the most important pieces of equipment – it has to be a snug fit and strapped on properly at all times.” So, the message is clear: be confident you’re ready to hit the road, don’t take risks... but do take your time. And don’t forget to have fun. Wheels Cycles Moped & Scooter Rentals is at 117 Front Street, Hamilton,

tel: 292-2245 n

Wheels Cycles (Astwood) Ltd. 117 Front St., Hamilton, Bermuda Tel: 441-292-2245 www.wheelscycles.com Email: information@wheels.bm

Scooter Rentals by the Day, Week or Month Discover the beauty of Bermuda at your own speed with our easy to ride, Peugeot double seater scooters. Single seaters also available. * Open 7 Days a week * No deposit required * All major credit cards welcomed * No license required * Third party insurance included * Complete instructions & safety tips

Welcome All Visitors bermuda.com guide 43

practicalities JETBLUE Tel: 1-800-JETBLUE (538-2583). U.S. Airways Reservations: Tel: 1-800-622-1015. Flight Info: Tel: 293-3073. USA 3000 Tel: 1-877-872-3000. WestJet Tel: 1-888-WESTJET (937-8538). Photo by Kageaki Smith

Our balmy climate allows you to step onto your plane home from the tarmac.

What you need to know Your concierge might know an awful lot, but you can’t take him to the beach. Here’s a handy list of things you ought to know. Information provided here is subject to change. For the latest, visit our website: www.bermuda.com.

n Airlines Air Canada Reservations: Tel: 1-888-247-2262. Flight Info: Tel: 293-1777. American Airlines Tel: 1-800-433-7300. British Airways Reservations: Tel: 1-800-247-9297. Airport customer service: Tel: 293-1944. Continental Airlines Reservations: Tel: 1-800-231-0856. Flight Info: Tel: 293-3092. Delta Airlines Reservations: Tel: 1-800-221-1212. Flight Info: Tel: 293-1024.

44 bermuda.com guide

n Airport L.F. Wade International Airport (tel: 2932470) is located in St. George’s at the east end of the island. Allow 30 minutes from the city of Hamilton by taxi. Check-in two hours before departure.

n Banks Normally open from 9am to 4pm, Mon-Fri. There are many ATMs across the island.

n Buses All bus routes serving Hamilton arrive and leave the Bus Terminal on Washington Street. (Refer to number 48 on the Hamilton map on page 34). See page 26 for schedule. Cash fares require exact change and dollar bills are not accepted. Adult cash fare is $3 up to 3 zones, $4.50 for longer journeys. Tokens are $2.50 for 3 zone trips and $4 for longer trips. Transportation passes are available: one-day pass $12, two days $20, three days $28, four days $35, seven days $45 or one month, $55. For children (aged 5-16) cash fare is $2 and transportation passes range from $6 per day up to $22.50 for seven days. Children under five ride free. Tokens, tickets and passes can be used on buses or ferries and can be bought at ferry terminals, the central bus terminal, hotels, post offices and Visitor Information Centres. Tel: 292-3851 • info@ptb.bm

n Business Hours Stores normally open from 9am to 5pm

Shark oil barometers forecast weather. Monday to Saturday. Many grocery stores open 1-5pm on Sunday, most other stores are closed on Sundays.

n Cars No car rentals are available in Bermuda but you can rent scooters and pedal bikes.

n Consulate The U.S. Consulate is located on Crown Hill, 16 Middle Road, Devonshire, tel: 295-1342. Open Mon to Fri 8am - 4:30pm. Consular services are provided on an appointment basis only, except for adult passport renewals and additional visa pages, which may be dropped off. For details, visit the Consulate’s website: http://hamilton.usconsulate.gov. For after-hours life or death emergencies for American citizens only, contact the duty officer at (441) 335-3828. Honorary Consuls for other countries are also represented. See the telephone directory for listings.

n Communications The sophistication of Bermuda’s telecommunications rivals U.S. and European counterparts. Our well-developed infrastructure provides modern telephone, fax, internet, cellular and cellular-roaming services.

practicalities

at lunchtime. Some upscale restaurants require men to wear a jacket in the evening. Check the dress requirements when making reservations.

n Emergency Call 911 and specify whether you need police, the fire service or an ambulance.

n Etiquette It is customary to greet islanders with a ‘good morning’, ‘good afternoon’ or ‘good evening’ — Bermuda prides itself on its civility.

n Ferries The best way to get around; ferries are usually quicker than the buses and the views are better. All ferries depart from the ferry terminal on Front Street, Hamilton. Regular ferries cross Hamilton Harbour and faster catamaran ferries visit Somerset, Dockyard and St. George’s. You can buy tickets at various locations including post offices and hotels. Scooters are allowed on some routes. See page 16 & 17 for ferry schedule.

n Health

U.S. & Canada — dial 1 plus area code plus no. U.K. — dial 011 plus 44 plus area code plus no. Caribbean — dial 1 plus area code plus seven digits.

No inoculations are required for Bermuda. There are no poisonous insects or mammals (see pages 64 & 65) but visitors should be wary of the Portuguese man-of-war jellyfish that carries a painful sting. Guard against sunstroke and sunburn with hats, sunblock and plenty of water. Our climate is quite kind to hay fever sufferers as pollens are blown out to sea.

n Currency & Credit Cards

n Hospital

The Bermuda dollar is equal in value to the U.S. dollar; both are legal tender here. Traveller’s cheques and credit cards are accepted at most shops, restaurants and hotels.

King Edward VII Memorial Hospital (tel. 236-2345) is a large, first-rate facility owned and operated by the Bermuda Government and located on Point Finger Road in Paget Parish. An associate of the American Hospital Association. Airlifts can be arranged to the U.S. or Canada.

n Country Codes

n Dress Code The dress code in Bermuda is conservative. Bathing suits and bare chests are not acceptable, except at beaches and pools. Casual wear is acceptable in restaurants

n Internet Most hotels and many guest houses provide

bermuda.com guide 45

practicalities

Winter water temp. averages 68°F.

internet access. Also, there are a handful of locations where you can go online in the city of Hamilton including the Bermuda Library on Queen Street, where access is free. Public internet access is also available in St. George’s and Dockyard.

first mile and $2.25 for each additional mile for 1-4 passengers. Rates increase after midnight, Sundays and public holidays with a 25% surcharge for 1-4 passengers and a 50% surcharge for 5-6 passengers. Taxis may also be hired by the hour or day.

n Mail

n TV & Radio

The General Post Office is located at 56 Church Street Hamilton (tel: 297-7893) and there are 12 sub-offices islandwide. Airmail leaves and arrives daily. Postal rates for airmail postcards to North America cost 70¢; Europe 80¢; Africa, Asia, Australia and New Zealand 90¢.

n Religion Many faiths are represented here and churches are ubiquitous. Anglican, Catholic, African Methodist Episcopal and Seventh Day Adventist are among the major faiths. See the church listings in Friday’s Bermuda Sun newspaper.

n Scooters You can rent scooters by the day or week, if you are 16 or older. Helmets, provided by the rental companies, are mandatory (see pages 42 & 43). Some companies offer free delivery to your hotel.

n Smoking Smoking is banned from all enclosed public spaces including restaurants, bars, shops, theatres or any enclosed workspaces.

n Taxis Rates are controlled by law at $6.40 for the

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Three main local channels screen a nightly news bulletin — VSB (channel 11), ZBM (9) and ZFB (7). A government station, CITV, is on channel 2 and there’s a small handful of local radio stations. The quality of local programming varies considerably.

n Time Differences Bermuda, noon: New York — 11am Los Angeles — 8am London — 4pm Toronto — 11am Daylight Savings Time comes into effect from the second Sunday in March through to the first Sunday in November.

n Tipping In most cases, a service charge or gratuity has been added to the bill. Where the gratuity has not been added, 15% is about right.

n Water Tap water is safe to drink, unless you are instructed otherwise. Bermuda has no rivers, streams or reservoirs; all our water comes from rain. Bermuda roofs are painted with a limestone wash that purifies the water as it trickles down into underground tanks. Electric pumps send the water up to the tap.

n Weather Bermuda’s sub-tropical climate is generally mild and humid, but summer and winter temperatures vary considerably. The average annual temperature is 76ºF. Monthly averages: January 65ºF, water 66ºF; April 67ºF, water 68ºF; July 80ºF, water 81ºF; October 75ºF, water 76ºF. In an average year we see rain on 171 days and sunshine on 200 days.

go shopping

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Chatham House on Front Street is the place to go for quality, Cuban cigars.

Great stores, no sales tax You’ve already proved you have good taste by choosing to visit Bermuda so it’s fitting that our stores exude quality. That’s not to say there are no bargains to be had — you’ll find hefty price differentials with the U.S. on items such as jewellery, watches, perfume, silverware, porcelain and crystal. And you’ll enjoy additional relief at the cash register — there’s no sales tax. Many stores are in the City of Hamilton, but the Clocktower Mall at Dockyard, on the extreme western tip of the island, boasts a range of quality gift stores and boutique shops. And the historic town of St. George’s — at the east end of Bermuda — also has a lively shopping scene. Goods made here or produced exclusively for local stores include pottery, jewellery, paintings and prints, pottery, rum, honey, condiments, cedar ware, Bermuda shorts, scarves, fragrances and pillows. Browse the listings on the following pages for details. bermuda.com guide 47

go shopping

Silk Alley was named after the swish

Bermuda Breeze Bermuda Breeze, sister to Bermuda Blue, is the latest modern fragrance in the Bermuda collection – a fruity floral — exclusively available in Bermuda. Bermuda Breeze’s delightful scent takes in the sea air and the aromas of natural fruits and flowers from around the island. Notes hint of wild berries, mandarin, lemon zest and jasmine. The dry down is lovely sandalwood and white musk, giving depth and warmth. Inspired by the brilliant clear turquoise waves gracing pink sandy beaches, sea misting the immense blue sky – Bermuda Breeze is unique. Take the time to experience Bermuda Breeze and Bermuda Blue — both embrace much that is uniquely Bermuda. Available through select stores across the Island and on-line including: Gibbons Company, Reid St, Hamilton www.gibbons.bm Peniston Brown, St. George’s Perfume Shop, Dockyard Carole Holding, Front St, Hamilton Brown & Co., Front St, Hamilton A.S. Cooper, Front St, Hamilton, branch

and hotel stores. www.ascooper.bm Distributed by P.D.L. Limited Tel: (441) 292-1710. infobb@pdl.bm

Bermuda Perfumery The Bermuda Perfumery is located at historical Stewart Hall in the heart of the St. George’s UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since 1928, the Bermuda Perfumery has been creating and manufacturing fine ladies’ and gentlemen’s fragrances under the brand Lili Bermuda. All the perfumes are made on the premises at Stewart Hall. The Perfumery welcomes visitors for a free tour of its operations and to sample its unique fragrances. This year, the Perfumery launched South Water, a delicious unisex fragrance, composed of coconut milk, juicy guava and sea salt. For women, the Perfumery introduced Petals, a romantic blend of jasmine sambac, honeysuckle and orange flower. To celebrate Bermuda’s 400th anniversary, the Perfumery introduced Somers, for men, a modern blend of Bermuda cedar, olivewood bark and liqourice. The Perfumery’s perfume

Photo by Kageaki Smith

The Perfumery in St. George’s offers free tours — and great gift ideas.

48 bermuda.com guide

go shopping

of ladies’ petticoats as they walked.

Photo by Kageaki Smith

The General Post Office is on the corner Church and Parliament Streets, in the centre of Hamilton

collection also includes exclusive creations inspired by our beautiful island. Modern women will love Coral, Pink, and Lily, and men will not want to leave Bermuda without a bottle of the famous fragrances 32° North and 64° West. The Perfumery is passionate about the art of perfume making and continues to innovate by using both traditional and modern techniques to produce exceptional perfumes. Visitors are welcome to visit for a free tour and to sample the Perfumery’s exclusive and rare perfumes. The Bermuda Perfumery. Open Mon-Sat 9am-5pm. Stewart Hall, 5 Queen Street St. George’s GE 05. Tel: 293-0627. 1-800527-8213 (toll free in US/Canada). Fax: 293-8810. info@bermuda-perfumery.com www.lilibermuda.com

Bermuda Post Office Every year the Bermuda Philatelic Bureau compiles a collection of commemoratives and arranges them into an attractive presentation package. This collection

continues the Bermuda Post Office’s efforts to portray all facets of Bermuda’s heritage, culture and history. The Bermuda Philatelic Bureau also services orders for current issues of Bermuda’s commemorative and definitive stamps and, for the convenience of collectors, provides a standing order account service with a minimum deposit of 30 dollars. In addition, they maintain a mailing list to provide details of new stamp releases to customers. 56 Church Street, Hamilton. Tel: 297-7807

Chatham House Bermuda’s leading specialty tobacco shop, established in 1895. Offering a marvellous selection of fine tobaccos and gifts for visitors. Satisfaction is guaranteed. Their extensive range includes English Briar pipes, and a selection of Havanas such as Punch, Partagas, Romeo y Julieta, Upmann, Montecristo, Cohiba and Bolivar — all at good savings over U.S. prices. Corner of Front and Burnaby streets, Hamilton. Tel: 292-8422

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feature The revealing saga of those cute Bermuda shorts By SIMON JONES | It’s not

everywhere in the world a man can walk down the street in pink shorts and matching knee-high socks and hold his head high. But in Bermuda, no one bats an eye-lid when such colourful dressers wend their way around town. Bermuda shorts are a national uniform. They come in all colours, from salmon pink to sunshine yellow. And they are accompanied by a pair of long socks, called Bermuda hose, pulled up to the knee. Add a navy blazer, a tie and smart shoes and you have standard business attire here in the semi-tropics. Don’t be fooled by the bright colours – Bermuda shorts are serious stuff. We once passed a law that states they should not be Marketing to royalty: Local retailer David Hamshere, who runs the English Sports Shop, offers a pair of Bermuda shorts to Prince Philip during a royal visit to the island in 2009.

shorter than six inches above the knee. Bermuda shorts trace their origins to the British Army; soldiers

50 bermuda.com guide

Wear tasselled loafers with your shorts. sported cut-off trousers to combat the tropical and desert climates they were sent to. They were created at the turn of the 20th century by office workers in London, whose job it was to make sure the forces were suitably attired in farflung corners of the Empire. The look caught on and by the 1950s, most Bermudian men were happy to don a pair of comfortable shorts for work. Although they are Bermuda shorts by name, they are not made here; typically they’re imported from the United States. They make terrific gifts and/or mementos and who knows — you might start a trend in your hometown. The largest selection of Bermuda shorts can be found at the English Sports Shop, which has several

what’s on feature

When British soldiers wore shorts on the battlefields of North Africa during WWII, little did they know the look would become fashionable in far off Bermuda.

branches islandwide. Its flagship store is at 49 Front Street, Hamilton, tel: 295-2672. n

Bermuda’s leading retailer of exclusive, Bermuda-designed resort wear for men, women and children.

49 Front Street, Hamilton, tel: 295-2672 Mangrove Bay, Somerset, tel: 234-0770 Somers Wharf, St. George’s, tel: 297-0142 bermuda.com guide 51

Our city covers only 180 acres.

what’s on jewellery

Photo by jamie macmillan

One of Front Street’s landmark stores, Crisson Jewellers is synonymous with quality and elegance.

Crisson Jewellers Crisson Jewellers embodies Bermuda’s finest and most cherished traditions. A family business since 1922, the Crisson name is synonymous with quality and value. The fabulous array of jewellery and watches reflect the style, sophistication and taste of our discerning customers. When you explore our exciting collections, we are sure you will agree that a visit to Crisson is the crowning moment of your Bermuda shopping experience. Along with the wonderfully eclectic collection of hand-selected pieces from all parts of the world, Crisson are Bermuda’s exclusive source for famous designers including David Yurman, Roberto Coin, Marco Bicego, Picchiotti, John Hardy, Kabana, Pandora, Bixby and Thomas Sabo. As for diamonds of distinction, Crisson has Bermuda’s largest collection of spectacular cuts from Cento, A. Jaffe and Canadia. When it comes to timepieces, Crisson is definitely the place! Crisson are the

officially authorised Rolex retailers in Bermuda. You will also find Tag Heuer, Ebel, Movado, Tudor, Philip Stein, Christian Dior, Rado, Elysee, TX and Raymond Weil. The collection is rounded out with ranges from Seiko, Swiss Army, Citizen, Casio, Esq and Guess! Crisson has two stores on Front Street in Hamilton, with another on Queen Street. There are stores in St. George’s and in the Clocktower Mall at Dockyard. If you are staying in one of Bermuda’s major hotels, you’ll find a Crisson store there as well. Each of these boutique-style stores features pieces selected from our main collections in Hamilton. The shopping experience is relaxed and intimate, and the quality, value and prices are the same whichever store you choose to visit. Crisson Jewellers, 16 Queen Street, 55 & 71 Front Street, Hamilton; Water Street, St. George’s; Clocktower Mall, Dockyard, and all major hotels. Tel: 295-2351 • www.crisson.com

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food & drink

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Classy and inviting, Barracuda Grill is a terrific choice for lunch or dinner.

Let’s eat! Our island is small but it offers an

Barracuda Grill

abundance of dining options. From

Barracuda Grill, one of Bermuda’s most celebrated restaurants, is the place to go for outstanding seafood and chops prepared in a contemporary style, proudly winning seven Best of Bermuda Awards! Warm mahogany woods and plush banquettes in a sumptuous but comfortable dining room make it suitable for power business meals or romantic tête-à-têtes. Barracuda’s cozy but tres chic bar is the place to enjoy martinis made to share, or one of over 16 wines served by the glass. A warm, lavish and inviting interior hints at a time of bygone glamour but is contemporized to be thoroughly of the moment. Irresistible seafood and chops prepared with expertise take centre stage on immaculate white-lit linen covered tables. 5 Burnaby Hill (above the Hog Penny), Hamilton. Tel: 292-1609 Fax 292-8354 www.barracuda-grill.com Lunch $$, Dinner $$$

simple, unfussy cafes and bars to top-notch fine dining for that special Restaurant price ranges per person $ $$ $$$ $$$$

Under $20 $20-$40 $40-$50 Over $50

occasion, we’ve got you covered. Casual dress is acceptable at most restaurants, though some

upscale eateries require a jacket and tie. And it’s best to make reservations. The dollar signs (see our key, at left) offer a rough guide to prices. Also visit www.bermuda. com for updated information.

bermuda.com guide 55

Try loquat jam, made from local fruit. Chopsticks Chopsticks is known for its delicious Chinese and Thai food. Specialities include regional dishes from Canton, Hunan, Szechwan and Thailand with authentic chefs. From mild to very spicy, there’s something for everyone, including vegetarians. Convenient take out is available. Lunch Monday to Friday noon – 2:30pm, dinner nightly 5pm – 11pm. 88 Reid Street. Tel: 292-0791 Lunch $, Dinner $$

Hog Penny Restaurant and Pub Hamilton’s oldest licensed establishment, in business since 1957, the Hog Penny inspired the Cheers pub in Boston. Authentic is not a word used lightly here, and a 50-plus year history gives the place a delightful patina of age that you just can’t replicate. In December 1987, Gourmet Magazine exclaimed “it was love at first sight for us, as well as the throngs who flock here”, and as Gourmet wrote, this great institution is hard to beat for a truly

food & drink

authentic experience. Featuring great cuts of beef, genuine Indian curries, to-die-for hearty, pub style comfort food that has won countless “Best of Bermuda” awards, and was featured on The Food Network’s “$40 A Day”, the Hog Penny continues to be a favourite spot in Bermuda for generations of locals and visitors alike. 5 Burnaby Hill (just up from Front Street) Hamilton. Tel: 292-2534 Fax 292-8354 www.hogpennypub.com Lunch $$, Dinner $$

Island Cuisine One of Bermuda’s most popular diners, where locals and tourists alike enjoy a great breakfast, lunch or dinner. Reasonable prices. Famous for its delicious, homemade Bermudian dishes — a treat for the entire family. Clean and friendly with great service. Serving beer and wine. Try some peas n’ rice with your fish dinner. Also serving fishcakes, Bermuda fish chowder, oxtail stew, rockfish with lemon and butter sauce,

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Delicious Chinese and Thai dishes are served in elegant surroundings at Chopsticks.

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food & drink

A Dark ’n’ Stormy is Black Seal Rum

braised pork chops, curry chicken roti, salads, sandwiches and soups. Breakfast served all day. Open daily, Mon-Sat, 6am9:45pm, Sun: 7am-2:45pm 235 Middle Road, Southampton Tel: 238-(EATS) 3287 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner $-$$

Latin & Rumba°r and Java Jive Heating things up in the very heart of Hamilton with Nuevo Latino inspired cuisine, Latin is a sizzling and chic new restaurant that, according to the many guests that have visited us to date, “is different from everywhere else in Bermuda”. The main upscale dining restaurant features many different regional dishes from Central and South America, Spanish Caribbean, Miami and even gives a nod to the Iberian peninsula; all are given a twist and artfully presented in Latin style. Downstairs in

Rumba°r, a sleek onyx topped, glowing bar beckons you to sit and enjoy an authentic Caipirinha, or a tall and delightful Mojito. Meander outside to Bermuda’s only open air, below street courtyard lounge, with Philippe Starck outdoor couches and low fabric banquettes. Need a fantastic cappuccino or panini sandwich on the go? Java Jive is open Monday to Friday 7am-4pm for fantastic pastries, breakfasts or lunch to take away. As the degree sign in Rumba°r suggests, Latin is HOT! 29 Victoria Street, Hamilton. Tel: 296-5050. Fax: 296-5333. www.latin-rumbar.com Lunch $$, Dinner $$

Mrs. T’s Victorian Tea Room Located at Willowbank Hotel, set in a 17th century home, Mrs. T’s Victorian Tea Room is an example of classic Bermudian

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Eat, drink and dance: The Latin complex on Victoria Street features a lovely restaurant upstairs, outdoor patios and a lively cocktail bar downstairs.

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food & drink

mixed with ginger beer – delicious!

Photo by JAMIE MACMILLAN

A lively crowd and good music makes The Pickled Onion a Front Street favourite.

architecture with its cedar framework and timeless structures. It remains a delight to behold and worthy of a visit, with classic, sumptuous dishes. Lunch specialities include dishes such as Black Oak smoked ham and aged cheddar croissants to traditional Bermudian Hoppin’ John. “Take tea” with a delectable assortment of finger sandwiches, scones with clotted cream and pastries hand-made right on the property. Willowbank Hotel, 126 Somerset Road, Sandy’s. Tel: 234-1616. Lunch $

Pickled Onion Restaurant and Bar A contemporary styled upscale but casual restaurant, with Bermuda’s best bar and “See and Be Seen” vibe. Chefs here won the prestigious “Escoffier Cup” at the 2004 Bermuda Culinary Arts Festival, and have drawn accolades from Food and Wine magazine, the Washington Post and most recently Giada’s Weekend Getaways showing primetime on the Food Network. The food is North American focused, with global influences, and the goal is to be

the best value restaurant experience in Bermuda. A classy but fun Martini style bar is popular with local professionals or those out on the town. Harbour views and live entertainment seven nights a week in season. 53 Front Street, Hamilton Tel: 295-2263 Fax: 295-6291 www.thepickledonion.com Lunch $$, Dinner $$

Rosa’s Cantina Saddle up and get on down to Bermuda’s only Tex Mex eatery. Famous Margaritas are offered in different flavours (Best of Bermuda Award) as well as Mexican beer and a full bar menu. In warm weather, try a seat on the balcony overlooking Front Street. Try Unbelievable Nachos, Ridiculous Burritos, Quesadillas and Fajitas. Great Steaks at great prices, done on the Mesquite Grill and creative dinner specials keep Rosa’s on top. Families with small children are welcome. Open daily from 11:30am onwards. 121 Front Street. Tel: 295-1912 Lunch $, Dinner $$

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food & drink Two classic Bermuda dishes By MEREDITH EBBIN | A Bermuda codfish breakfast, usually enjoyed on Sundays, ranks high on the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s list of national dishes. Codfish cakes are equally popular and are eaten any day of the week. Dried salt cod, essential in both dishes, has been part of our culinary tradition for nearly four centuries. It was once a cheap food source for slaves. These days, the Sunday staple that is served in homes, membersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; clubs, hole-in-the-wall eateries and hotels, is a veritable feast. The main ingredients are dried salt cod and potatoes. Most cooks use boneless cod, but purists say dumpfish,

62 bermuda.com guide

photo by Kageaki Smith

Delicious: a typical codfish breakfast.

which is dried cod with the bones and skin, has a better flavour. Both are laden with salt. So the cod, which is packaged and imported, usually from Nova Scotia, must be soaked in cold water overnight and the water changed at least twice. The cod is boiled in fresh water. The potatoes can be

Have you tried conch stew yet? cooked with the cod or separately. The flaked fish and whole potatoes are eaten with avocados, bananas and olive oil. It’s also delicious served with a basic tomato sauce or one with ‘the works’ — onions, green peppers and bacon. Others swear by an egg sauce. For many, a codfish breakfast is not complete without hot cornbread or Johnny bread. With all the trimmings, it’s a hearty meal that should see you through to suppertime. For codfish cakes, mashed potatoes and cooked cod are mixed together with an egg and seasonings, shaped into balls or patties and then fried. Fishcakes are usually eaten for lunch, served between a bun, with lettuce, tomato, tartar sauce and a few drops of hot sauce. Many locals eat them with a raisin bun — a nod to the Good Friday holiday when fish cakes are eaten with hot cross buns. Codfish breakfast is on the menu 6am-11.30am on Saturdays at the Speciality Inn (Tel: 236-3133), a popular home-style eatery on South Road in Smith’s Parish. Bouchée Restaurant (295-5759) is on Pitts Bay Road in Hamilton and in 2009 won an award for its codfish breakfast. It’s served Sundays 7.30-11.30am. Best to arrive early at both places, where you’ll pay roughly $15 per head. If your budget is a bit bigger, the Fairmont Southampton’s Sunday breakfast buffet, served at Windows on the Sound, includes codfish and potatoes with all the trimmings. Reservations are required (Tel: 238-2555 for times). Codfish recipes can be found in most Bermuda cookbooks. Cecille C. SnaithSimmons’ The Bermuda Cook Book is a good one to try. n

what’s on food & drink

Mrs. Tea’s Victorian Tea Room Victorian elegance provides lunch or afternoon tea in a charming environment for a genteel afternoon break. Willowbank Hotel & Conference Facility 126 Somerset Road Sandy’s MA06, Bermuda Ph (441) 234-1616 www.willowbank.bm Hours: Lunch or Afternoon Tea • Week Days 12pm-2:30pm • Weekends 12pm-5pm

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food & drink

Photo by Kageaki Smith

The British-style Hog Penny is warm and welcoming.

Your handy pub guide By James Whittaker | Hamilton’s Front Street is the centre of our nightlife scene and the Pickled Onion is a great starting point. With live music, good food and a friendly atmosphere, it’s probably our most popular bar. The Hog Penny, a cozy, oak-panelled bar that inspired the Bull and Finch pub in Cheers, is just steps around the corner. Back on Front Street, Flanagan’s, an Irish bar with an American feel, and the Outback sports bar, which screens everything from basketball to cricket, are worth checking out. Nearby, The Beach – self-proclaimed 64 bermuda.com guide

‘shame of Front Street’ – is a popular late-night spot. It has a good bar menu and closes late; the ‘shame’ bit kicks in if you find yourself still partying in the early hours, having planned a ‘quiet’ night out. Bermudiana Road caters to a more sophisticated crowd. Smart shoes, collared shirts and well-padded wallets are required here, where upscale wine bars nestle between swish restaurants. The Robin Hood on Richmond Road is a lively, British-style pub with reasonably priced food and live sports. If you’re streetwise and like to stray off the beaten track, take a wander down Court Street, where you’ll enjoy the atmosphere in bars like the Spinning Wheel, where the DJ keeps the dance floor busy with a mix of classic soul, reggae and soca. The friendly Swizzle Inn, near the airport, is always a good night out and is famous for potent rum swizzle cocktails. North Rock Brewery on South Road, Smith’s Parish is a good spot to sample locally brewed beers — St. David’s Pale Ale is our favourite. The Frog and Onion in Dockyard will also serve you an authentic, local pint of beer and along with the Bone Fish Bar & Grill, a terrific people-watching spot, it’s your best bet in Dockyard. Out west, the Country Squire in Somerset has a beautiful wooden balcony overlooking Mangrove Bay and is worth a visit, while Henry VIII in Southampton is another popular spot. Wherever you go, don’t drink and ride — leave your rental scooter at the hotel and take a bus, cab or ferry. Cheers! n

bermuda.com guide | january 2011

gu覺de january 2011

Super Nova Homegrown star to sing at festival Cheers! Your handy pub guide

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