bermuda.com guide July 2011 by Bermuda.com Ltd

bermuda.com guide | july 2011

guÄąde JUly 2011

Take a dip Our Top Ten beaches â&#x20AC;&#x201D; which is your favourite?

Shopping, sightseeing, dining, culture

Free

contents

Cup Match — an annual highlight. See page 12.

n Arts

n Nature

galleries & shows 15 spectacular mural 34

know your fish 56-57 ultimate survival story 58-59

n Business

n People

real estate 60 top tips 70-71

minister’s welcome 4 Johnny Barnes 17 celebrities in Bermuda 68-69

n Children fun hot spots 42-43

n Cover story top ten beaches 6 & 8

n Events

n Practicalities health, customs etc 62-67

n Shopping

calendar 10-15 Cup Match 12

flex the plastic 72-81 Bermuda shorts 82-83 t-shirts 84-85

n Food & drink

n Sightseeing

best places to eat 87-93 classic local recipes 94-95 pub guide 96

n Sports & Activities

n History old coins 38-39 U.S./Bermuda links 40 shipwrecks 50-53

n Maps island map between 16 & 17 St. George’s 18 Hamilton 28 Dockyard 33

2 bermuda.com guide

east to west 17-33 golf, tennis, diving etc 44-51, 54-55

n Transportation bus info 62 bus schedule 65 ferry info 63 scooter rentals 64 how to ride safely 66-67

n Weather what to expect 65

Photo by Tony McWilliam

Co-publisher & advertising manager: Lisa Beauchamp, lbeauchamp@bermudasun.bm Tel: 278-1850 Co-publisher & editor-in-chief: Tony McWilliam, tmcwilliam@ bermudasun.bm Tel: 278-1860 Design & Layout: Creative Circle Media Consulting Accounts: Donna Vesely Tel: 278-1831 Delivery: Lloyd Somner Contributors: Theresa Airey, Chris Burville, Roger Crombie, Andrew Dobson, Meredith Ebbin, Jack Garstang, Laura Gorham, Simon Jones, Jamie Macmillan, Alan Marquardt, Terri Mello, Kageaki Smith, James Whittaker. Special thanks to Jan Card and Alison Outerbridge bermuda.com guide Published by The Bermuda Sun a subsidiary of MediaHouse © Bermuda.com Ltd. Printed by Island Press Ltd. Web: www.bermuda.com Information and services contained in the guide are believed to be correct at the time of printing; however, prices and times may be subject to change without notice. The Bermuda Sun Limited makes every effort to ensure accuracy but accepts no liability for errors or omissions. Reproduction in whole or in part by permission of the publisher only.

FOR EVERY SPECIAL OCCASION 55 & 71 FRONT STREET & 16 QUEEN STREET, HAMILTON • WATER STREET, ST. GEORGE’S CLOCKTOWER MALL, DOCKYARD • ALL MAJOR HOTELS • TEL (441) 295 2351

welcome to bermuda Welcome,

A FEW WORDS FROM OUR MINISTER OF BUSINESS We are so pleased that you have chosen Bermuda as AND yourTOURISM vacation|destination. DEVELOPMENT

Welcome. We are so pleased that

Bermuda is famous for its tranquil pleasures â&#x20AC;&#x201C;sunset skies, leisurely walks along you have chosen Bermuda as your pink sand beach or a snorkel adventures in our turquoise waters. vacation destination.

Bermuda is famous for itsscenery. We ar However, Bermuda is more than just beautiful beaches and great tranquil pleasures â&#x20AC;&#x201D; sunsetofskies, also an Island with a thriving culture, a rich history and an abundance activities to kee you entertained during your stay. leisurely walks along a pink sand beach or snorkel adventures in our

In fact, there are several world-class sporting and cultural events on tap over the turquoise waters. next few months that will give you plenty of reasons embrace our Island; events such as However, Bermuda is more than nternational Race Weekend and the Bermuda Festival. just beautiful beaches and great

In addition to participating in our activities, I want to also encourage you to experien scenery. We are an Island with our premier shopping establishments, exceptional restaurants, exciting night life and of a thriving culture, a rich history and an abundance of activities to keep you ourse our signature golf courses. entertained during your stay.

In addition to courses participating in our activities, I want to encourage you to However We have the most per square mile of any country in the world. experience our premier establishments, you are seeking something a bit shopping more serene, please visitexceptional one of ourrestaurants, many spas, which w help dissolve yournight stresses andofreinvigorate your mind body. exciting life and course our signature golfand courses. We have the most courses per square mile of any country in the world.

However you choose to spend your Bermuda vacation, I am certain you will have However, if you are seeking something a bit more serene, please visit one memorable experience. of our many spas, which will help dissolve your stresses and reinvigorate

mind Onyour behalf ofand the body. Ministry of Business Development and Tourism, I want to thank or choosing Bermuda, andchoose we look forward toBermuda welcoming you back our shores very s to spend your I amto certain However you vacation,

Sincerely,

you will have a memorable experience.

On behalf of the Ministry of Business Development and Tourism, I want

to thank you for choosing Bermuda, and we look forward to welcoming you back to our shores very Thesoon. Hon. Patrice K. Minors JP, MP

Sincerely, The Hon. Patrice K. Minors JP, MP

Minister of Business Development and Tourism

4 bermuda.com guide

beaches

Photos by Kageaki Smith

Best of the best: The spectacular arc and soft sand of Horseshoe Bay has made it world famous.

Every one a winner: our Top Ten beaches By JAMES WHITTAKER | Breathtaking beaches are Bermuda’s most endur-

ing attraction, from aquamarine pools and sandy bays to the famous pink sand of the south shore. Pack your sunscreen, hats, towels and and use our guide to hit one or more of the island’s top ten beaches. 10

John Smith’s Bay: Off the beaten track in Smith’s parish, this popular

locals’ beach is a little less crowded than the south shore destinations but KEY: Bathrooms - B Rentals - R Café - C Lifeguard - L

still boasts soft sand and great swimming and snorkelling. The Harrington Hundreds grocery store is just a few minutes away by moped if you want to make your own picnic. L, B

6 bermuda.com guide

Continued on page 8

beaches

We have 75 miles of coastline

Continued from page 6 9 Cooper’s Island Nature Reserve: A tiny peninsula on the eastern edge of the island, only recently opened to the public, Cooper’s Island is actually a series of small coves connected by almost a mile of walking trails. The larger but less picturesque (it’s all relative) Clearwater Beach is right next door. B 8 West Whale Bay: Named for the humpback whales that migrate past Bermuda in April and May each year, this is as good a place for whale watching as anywhere on the island. The grassy clifftop that borders this Southampton beach is a great spot for a picnic.

7 Snorkel Park: A great beach for families, out west in vibrant Dockyard. There are inflatables for the kids to rent, great snorkelling for dad and beach loungers for mum. L, B, C, R 6 Warwick Long Bay: To truly grasp the beauty of Bermuda’s south shore,

walk the length of Warwick Long Bay and clamber across the rocks, or take a detour over the sand dunes to Jobson’s Cove and Chaplin Bay. On a quiet day you will see more Longtails than fellow tourists. B, R (seasonal) 5 Shelly Bay: A parents’ dream beach, Shelly Bay boasts warm, shallow water, a soft sandy bottom and backs on to a playground and sports field. A favourite for kids and novice swimmers — and close to the bus stop. C, B 4 Church Bay: Swim with shoals of brightly coloured parrot fish among the pristine coral reef that pierces the water just yards from shore at this small south shore bay, widely revered as Bermuda’s best beach for snorkellers. R, B 3 Elbow Beach: A half-mile of white sand boasting stunning views of the Atlantic, Elbow Beach, in Paget, is a playground for joggers, kiteboarders, beach volleyball players and SCUBA divers. There’s even a shipwreck within swimming distance of shore. You can join in the fun or just hire a deckchair and sit back and watch. C, B, R 2 Tobacco Bay: Famous for its stunning volcanic rock formations — natural sculptures that emerge from the glassy water — this picturesque, sheltered cove is also a snorkellers’ dream. A short walk from the old town of St. George. C, B, R

With its gentle surf and plentiful amenities, Shelly Bay is a favourite for families.

8 bermuda.com guide

1 Horseshoe Bay: A crescent of soft, pink sand, lapped by clear blue water, fringed by sand dunes and bordered by sandstone cliffs, garnished with swaying palms — Horseshoe, in Southampton Parish, is a must for every Bermuda visitor. C, B, R, L n

what’s on

Photo courtesy of Vybez Alliance

The July 31 Non-Mariners Race, part of our Cup Match weekend celebrations, draws dozens of boaters and swimmers to Mangrove Bay, Somerset. See page 12

Cup Match our biggest and best summer event events & activities

ditional food and drink. Victualling Yard, Dockyard, 6:30-8:30pm. Free.

n Harbour Nights

Mondays Entertainment, food, arts and crafts, latenight shopping and children’s activities. Dockyard, 7-9.30pm. Free.

Wednesdays Street festival with entertainment, gifts, arts and crafts, local food and drink, children’s activities and late-night shopping. Front Street, Hamilton, 7-10pm. Free.

n Heritage Nights Thursdays Cricket, croquet, kite-making, Crown and Anchor, dancers, musicians, vendors, tra-

n Royal Naval Nights

n St George’s historical re-enactment Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays Light-hearted recreation of a traditional public punishment. Costumed 18th century

Compiled by Amanda Dale. Listings are subject to change. For the latest, call the numbers provided and visit our website www.bermuda.com. To submit a listing, e-mail Amanda Dale: adale@bermudasun.bm or call her on 278-1854 10 bermuda.com guide

what’s on

Bermuda is 690 miles from New York event includes the ducking of a nagging wench. King’s Square, St. George’s, noon. Free. Tel. 297-1532.

n Olde Towne Market Sundays Vibrant and diverse European-style market, featuring fresh produce, fish, local foods, arts and crafts and a Peddlar’s Market. King’s Square, Market Wharf and Water Street, St. George’s, 2-6pm. Free.

n Beating of the Retreat July 6, King’s Square, St George’s July 20, Front Street, Hamilton Military music, show tunes and marching formations by the Bermuda Regiment Band, Corps of Drums and the Bermuda Islands Pipe Band and Dancers. 9pm. Free.

n Snorkel Park Sundays Live Sundays Live bands and entertainment, watersports, sand castle contests, pedal boat races, BBQ food and tropical drinks. Snorkel Park Beach, Dockyard, 12-4pm.

n Chewstick Neo-Griot Lounge July 3, 10, 17, 24 Open-mic sessions with Bermuda’s best talent at the corner of Court and Elliott Streets. $10. Tel. 292-2439. www.chewstick.org

cuisine under the stars amid views of Hamilton Harbour. Barr’s Bay Park, Pitt’s Bay Road, Hamilton, 8-10:30pm. Free. Weather-dependent. Tel. 292-0023.

n Bermuda Folk Club July 9 Songs of the South. Featuring overseas artists and talented musicians Pamela Jo Hatley and Jenny and Ron James. Doors open 7pm. Spanish Point Boat Club, Spanish Point, Pembroke. $12 non-members, $8 members. Tel. 295 1030. info@folkclub.bm

n Shipwreck tales July 5 The National Museum of Bermuda and the Bermuda Zoological Society present talks on 17th century shipwrecks, including the Sea Venture (1609), Warwick (1619) and Vasa (1628). Featuring: Dr Jonathan Adams, Professor of Archaeology at Southampton University and Director of the Centre for Maritime Archaeology, UK; Dr Fred Hocker, Director of Research at the Vasa Museum in Stockholm, Sweden; Piotr Bojakowski, Underwater Archaeologist and Conservator at the National Museum of Bermuda and Director of the Warwick project. Bermuda Aquarium, Museum and Zoo, 6:30pm. Free.

n Rum tasting/Crown and Anchor Mondays, Wednesdays and Thursdays Sample local rum and beer while learning to play Crown and Anchor. Frog and Onion pub, Dockyard, 3:30-5:30pm.

n Gombey Saturdays in the Park Saturdays Experience the infectious rhythms and colour of our Gombey dancers. Welcome by Hamilton’s Town Crier, followed by Calypso steel pan music. Par-la-Ville Park, Queen Street, Hamilton, 12-1pm.

n Bermuda Nights July 9 & 23 Music, entertainment, culture and local

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Enjoy the pomp and ceremony of the Beating of the Retreat, July 6 & 20.

bermuda.com guide 11

what’s on

Use pink bus stops for travel into Hamilton,

n Summer Sundays in the Park July 3 Relax in the sun with the best of island music and entertainment. Food vendors, children’s play area. Victoria Park, Hamilton, 3-8pm. Free.

n Bermudian Women July 10 Author James E Smith discusses ‘Special Bermudian Women’. Hosted by the Bermuda National Trust, with afternoon tea at 4pm. Verdmont Museum, 3pm. $20 members, $25 non-members. Tel. 236-6483.

n Sizzling Tuesdays at Clearwater Beach Tuesdays Music, sunbathing, food and drink. Free samples of Rum Swizzle and fish chowder. Gombeys Restaurant, Clearwater Beach, St David’s.

n Karaoke Night at Shine’s Wednesdays Meet the friendly locals at this fun-filled night. Free access and a complimentary

Dark ‘n’ Stormy on presentation of your room key. Shine’s House of Music, 91 Reid Street, Hamilton, 9pm-12am.

n Cup Match July 28-31 This four-day holiday is an annual holiday . July 28 — Emancipation Day. At Horseshoe Bay, musical collective Chewstick stages ‘Beachfest’ with live performers, food and drink, fun and sports activities. At St George’s Cricket Club, the east end team takes on west end team Somerset for the annual two-day fixture, continuing a tradition dating back to 1902. It is also the only time of year when Bermudians can gamble, at Crown and Anchor tables. Expect a carnival atmosphere, with abundant food and drink. July 29 — Somers Day. This celebrates Admiral Sir George Somers who led the first settlers to Bermuda aboard the Sea Venture in 1609. It also marks the conclusion of the Cup Match Classic cricket match. July 31 — Non-Mariners Race. Mangrove Bay, Somerset. This giant raft-up dates back to the 1960s when non-sailors created non-

Photo by Tony McWilliam

Don’t miss it: You don’t have to understand the intricacies of cricket to enjoy Cup Match, a national celebration with deep historic roots.

12 bermuda.com guide

what’s on

and blue for heading away from the city seaworthy crafts as a joke against the established sailing clubs. Don’t have a boat? Watch the action from Sandys Boat Club.

n Book Babies Thursdays and Saturdays For ages six months to three years. Bermuda National Youth Library, Church Street, 9:30-10am. Tel: 295-3104, e-mail library@gov.bm

n Animal Storytelling Fridays Bermuda Aquarium, Museum & Zoo. Ages 2-4 at 11:15am, 5-7 at 4:15pm. Free. Tel. 293-2727, e-mail info.bzs@gov.bm

n Storytime Saturdays Free stories and crafts for ages three and older. Bermuda Youth Library, Church Street, 10:30am. Tel. 295-3104, e-mail library@gov.bm

n Latin music

Thursdays: The Cellar, Fairmont Southampton Fridays: Lido Complex, Elbow Beach, Paget 9:30pm-12:30am. www.bermudasalsa.com

tours n Bermuda National Gallery Fine Arts Tour Thursdays Take a tour of the national art collection with a guide. 10:30am to 11:30am. City Hall. Free. Tel. 295-9428.

n Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art Tuesdays Art in the Gardens gallery tour. 12:15pm to 1pm. Free, with complimentary memento. Masterworks, Botanical Gardens, Paget. www.bermudamasterworks.com

n Walking tours City of Hamilton

Saturdays Guitar and vocals from Armando Nicolin. 8-10pm at Muse, Front Street. www.bermudasalsa.com

Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays Town Crier Ed Christopher takes you on a historic journey. Meet at City Hall, Church Street, 10:30am or 2:30pm. Free.

n Dockyard Glassworks

n St George’s

Daily, 9am-10pm Daily glassblowing and fresh rum cake at Dockyard. Free. Tel. 292-9447.

n Bermuda Clayworks Daily, 9am-5pm A full-time pottery production company and gallery in Dockyard. Tel. 234-5116.

n Bermuda Perfumery Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm Founded in 1928. Queen Street, St. George’s. Tel. 293-0627, www.lilibermuda.com

n Salsamania Free Latin dance and music Mondays: Bone Fish, Dockyard Tuesdays: Grotto Bay, Hamilton Parish Wednesdays: Latin, Hamilton

Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays Guides Gillian Outerbridge and Connie Dey share key moments in history on this tour of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Meet at the Town Hall, King’s Square, 10:30am. Free.

n St Peter’s Church tours Mondays to Saturdays Built from Bermuda Cedar in 1612, St Peter’s is the oldest Anglican church in continuous use outside Britain. 10am-4pm, free. Sunday Worship 11:15am. St Peter’s Church, York Street, St George’s.

n Beyond Bermuda tours Historian Tim Rogers hosts history and nature tours. Tel. 234-4082. E-mail: trogers@northrock.bm

bermuda.com guide 13

what’s on

Bermuda’s motto, Quo Fata Ferunt,

n Byways Bermuda Tours

n Sessions House Tour

Fully escorted tours with driver, guide and refreshments. Tel. 504-8687. www.bywaysbermuda.com

Mondays, 11am-noon Tour the country’s Parliament and Supreme Court. Free. Corner of Parliament and Church Streets, Hamilton. Tel. 292-9447.

n Famous Homes and Hideaways sightseeing cruise Various days/times Cruise into an exclusive neighbourhood known as Millionaires’ Row plus learn about our flora and fauna. $45. From Hamilton Harbour and Dockyard. Contact Geri Roberts, Consort Cruises. Tel. 335-7201. E-mail consort@transact.bm

n Bermuda Aquarium, Museum & Zoo Daily, 1:10pm One-hour tour showcasing the world’s island environments. Flatts Village, Hamilton Parish. Adults $10, children and seniors $5, under-fives go free. Tel. 293-2727, www.bamz.org

n Walking Club of Bermuda Sundays July 3: Bridge Club, Paget Close, Pomander Road, Paget. July 10: Blue Hole Park, Bailey’s Bay. July 17: Chaplin Bay, South Road, Paget. July 24: Admiralty House, Pembroke. July 31: Modern Mart, South Road, Paget. All walks free, meet at 7am. Tel. 737-0437 or see http://walk.free.bm

n Botanical Gardens Tour Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays Meet at Berry Hill entrance near Visitors’ Centre, Paget, at 10:30am. Free. Tel. 236-5291.

n Bermuda Institute of Ocean Sciences Tour Wednesdays Hour-long tour of labs, grounds and research vessels of marine research centre. 10am. Free. Biological Lane, Ferry Reach, St. George’s. Tel. 297-1880. E-mail info@bios.edu. www.bios.edu

14 bermuda.com guide

n Carter House Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays 17th century house detailing history of St. David’s Island. Southside Road, St David’s. $2, call before visit. Tel. 293-5960.

arts n Shakespeare in the Park July 17-24 The Bermuda Musical and Dramatic Society (BMDS) and Corporation of Hamilton presents Much Ado About Nothing. Victoria Park, Hamilton, 8pm, $25. www.bmds.bm

n Bermuda National Gallery The History of Art in Bermuda; The Art of Elisee Maclet 1881-1962; Decoding The European Collection; and William Collieson: A Retrospective. Free. Open Monday to Friday, 10am-4pm, and Saturday, 10am2pm. City Hall, Church Street, Hamilton. Tel. 295-9428. www.bng.bm

n Bermuda Society of Arts July 1-19 Members’ Photographic Show 2011; Liquid Art by Voorhees Joell; Oils by Rhona Emmerson; and Kaleidoscopic by Nahed Eid. July 22 onwards Emerging Artists 2011; Black Apartheid by Manuel Palacio; Shannon Ford; and Lift Me Up by Trudie Ottolini. Free. Open Monday to Friday, 10am-4pm, Saturday, 10am-2pm. City Hall, Church Street, Hamilton. Tel. 292-3824. E-mail: bsoa@ibl.bm. www.bsoa.bm

n ACE Gallery Karl Struss: Bermudian Journey. Tuesday to Thursday, 11am-2pm. ACE building, Woodbourne Road, Hamilton.

what’s on

means ‘whither the fates carry us’ Free. Tel. 299-9365 or e-mail: info@acebermuda.com. www.acebermuda.com

Pearson. Tel. 505-4290.  E-mail SPArt@ logic.bm

n Wither The Fates: Bermuda’s Beginnings

n Verdmont Museum

17th Century Bermuda artefacts at the World Heritage Centre, Water Street, St. George’s. $5 adults, $2 children. Open Monday to Saturday, 10am-4pm. Tel. 297-5791. www.stgeorgesfoundation.org

n Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art Main Gallery — Floral Lane Depictions of Bermuda’s transformation from barren terrain to semi-tropical paradise. Entry $5. Open Monday to Saturday, 10am-4pm. Botanical Gardens, Paget. Tel. 236-2950. E-mail: mworks@logic.bm www.bermudamasterworks.com

n Bermuda Arts Centre Exhibits by local artists. Free. Open Monday to Sunday, 11am-4pm. Dockyard. Tel. 234-2809. E-mail: artcentre@ibl.bm. www.artbermuda.bm

Wednesday to Friday Antiques including cedar furniture and portraits. Adults $5, children $2, open 10am-4pm. Verdmont Lane, Smith’s. Tel. 236-7369. www.bnt.bm

n Crisson & Hind Art Gallery Hand-carved sculptures from Zimbabwe. Free. 71 Front St, Hamilton. Tel. 295-1117. www.crissonandhind.com

n Bermuda National Trust Museum at Globe Hotel Monday to Saturday Bermuda’s role in the American Civil War. Adults $5, children $2. Open 10am-4pm. St. George’s. Tel. 297-1423. www.bnt.bm

n Tucker House Museum Tuesday to Saturday 18th century merchant’s house. Adults $5, children $2. Open 10am-2pm. St. George’s. Tel. 297-0545. www.bnt.bm

n National Museum of Bermuda Open daily 9:30am-5pm, last admission 4pm. Adults $10, seniors $8, children 5-15 years $5. Royal Naval Dockyard. Tel. 234-1418, e-mail marmuse@logic.bm www.bmm.bm

n Bermuda Historical Society Museum 400 years of Bermuda history at the Library building on Queen Street. Open Monday to Friday, 10am-2pm. Free.

n Camden House Tuesday and Friday, 12-2pm This historic house is the official residence of the Premier. Located in the Botanical Gardens, Paget. Free. Tel. 236-5902.

n Common Ground Café Works by local artists. Open Monday to Friday, 7:30am-5pm, Saturday 8am-3pm. Chancery Lane, Hamilton. Contact Susan

Photo supplied

The National Museum of Bermuda sits on the western tip of the island.

bermuda.com guide 15

Your personal invitation to

There are very few places in the world where a town has survived and functioned essentially unchanged through 400 years to the present. There is only one in the New World. This is The Towne of St. George in Bermuda. For all that Bermuda is so noticeably a ‘Different World’ than America our roots are tightly intertwined. In 1609 the ship ‘Sea Venture’ grounded just off St.George in a storm. She was on her way to Jamestown — then a St.Peter’s. The Oldest fledgling settlement — and carried the new Governor of Virginia. functioning Anglican Church in the New These were the first Bermuda residents as it turned out. World. They spent the next year building a new ship to complete their journey. The Deliverance then proceeded on, laden with and food to sail the Chesapeake toand Jamestown Community survivors of St.George Extends thisup invitation to our visitors friends to just in own for a day. Community support by the following St.George’s businesses: time to save the settlement from starvation. This is just a glimpse into the profound historical importance of St.George to our American cousins. The relationship continued through the era of the Declaration Deliverance.Built of Independance and later the tragedy of the Civil from scratch by the St.,- the finest War actually continues to this day. shipwreck survivors Robertson’s so much more thanand a ystal and Gifts Churchill’s on York St.Could Brandy Drug Store e Prices. and Cigars be perspective anywhere else. From a historical what makes would be the saviour of Jamestown in 1610. St.George building 11 5 so unique is that nearly every 3 is original. These are not reconstructions in a theme village, the town The Tucker is genuine in every respect. The 20 plus major buildings protected by House. Nathanial the Bermuuda National Trust in St.George, along with the town’s desTucker’s part in the Gunpowder Plot is ignation as aBlackbeard’s UNESCOatWorld Heritage Site and it’s close relationships Achilles Bay: all. Tranquil, Griffin’s Restaurant at the St.Georges not welloverlooking knowwn. Best Sunset; Best Seafood ! ktails, Dinner Club the Town. Perfect forJamestown with and Colonial Williamsburg all attest to how rare and Lunch, Fabulous for Dinner rn by valuable it is. This is the oldest continuously working settlement in the new world.

Kinder, Gentler Time.

Shopping & Dining Complex on Water Street. Unhurried, (441) 297-2303

Unspoiled,

and souvenirs & Free Tasting !

16 bermuda.com guide Uncommon 6

Uncommon

The finest in jewellery, figurines, crystal and gifts at guaranteed 4 duty free prices

Pier Vu Fashions

S OMERS W HARF 7

Unspoiled

Casual Clothing on York St.at the Square and tickets for the Mini Train Tour.

Shopping & Dining Complex on Water Street.

Flowers to Visitors too !

Glass Cake

1 Unhurried

Fine Art and much more at the Somers Wharf Complex

(441) 295-1729

Belinda Tartaglia Gallery

A 400 year Journey back to

A Kinder, Gentler Time.

A visit to St. George should start at the World Heritage Center where a diorama and short film will set the stage. Self Guided walking tour maps are available there. After that we recommend The Tucker House Museum, The The World Heritage Globe Hotel (and Confederate Museum) and Center. At Penno’s The Globe Hotel. A neighboring St. Peter’s church. Wharf at the Western center of intrigue and Around noon, keep an eye out in the Town end of Water Street — high politics during the Revolutionary and Civil Square where gossips are occasionally ducked The best place to start your visit. wars in America. on the ‘Ducking Stool’. A photograph of a family member in the Public ‘Stocks’ is a must. The small but lovely Somers Garden Park is worth the short stroll if only because of it’s beautiful Traditional Bermuda Moongate arch. A little further will take you to The Stocks. Minor The Ducking Stool. Thrice offenses against the the “Unfinished Church” and the “Gunweekly at noon gossips are public morals were discouraged from their sinful powder Cavern”, both of which have interpunished by exposure to ways in the town square. esting stories attached and Bridge House ridicule and tomatoes! A - the home of a Governor of Virginia in the Free attraction. 1700’s. Nearby too is the Mitchell House, home to the St.George’s Historical Society Museum and the Olde Print Shoppe. Sundays are special in St.George. The atmosphere in the Town is the The St.George Historical Bridge House. home antithesis of the hustle and bustle which Society Museum and the to Governor Barrett of Print Shop. is the tempo of modern life. St.George is Virginia in the 1700’s

tranquil and relaxed and proudly so. The morning Service at St.Peters - or any of our many houses of worship - attracts locals and visitors to a weekly gathering which is as refreshingly different as is the Town. Sunday is Brunch Day in Bermuda and St. George is no exception. From the fish cakes at Temptations to full Market Sundays. service overlooking the Harbour at Wahoos or An eclectic cross the new Polaris at the Carriage House you will of European not go home hungry. But there is more too! Promenade and Street Fair. Sunday is Market Day with the Olde Towne Market each Sunday Afternoon. Street vendors and buskers from all over the island bring their wares to St.George in a mixture of country fair and flea market that is the perfect reason to stroll after brunch.

Visiting St. George can start with a morning taxi tour ending in the town in time for lunch or take a fabulous ferry ride from Hamilton or the Dockyard. The journey east by one of our famous pink buses is just as scenic. Lunch can be a Cornish Pastie or Quiche at Temptations near St.Peter’s or Chef Alfred’s famous Rockfish Calypso at Wahoos Bistro Terrace or the full Monty from Sushi to Prime Rib at the newly reopened Polaris at the Carriage House. Then stroll west to the World Heritage Centre to get your bearings and pick up walking tour maps and guides and set out to see Pilot Darrell’s House and the Old Print Shop, Somers Gardens and the Forts from St.Catherine’s to Gates’. Like most of Bermuda St.George is an explorer’s delight and not a packaged experience. Curiosity and interest are the only necessary equipment for an interesting day or three!. For those who would rather ride than walk, the Mini Train Tour is an hour well spent. For the Aquatic, bring your mask and snorkel (or rent them on-site) and head for Buzz-on-the-Beach at Tobacco Bay. Safe in all but the worst of weather for sunbathing to scuba with beach equipment rental and a cafe all just 10 minutes walk from the Town. Shopping is eclectic to say the least: Bemuda’s own Perfumery; Vera P. Card for Duty Free Savings on Jewelry, Figurines and Crystal; Churchill’s for fine cigars and Dark-n-Stormy fixins; Robertsons Drug Store for the usual and very un-usual in Childrens Toys & Books and Sweets and Cosmetics; and the Dockyard Glassblowing branch store for Bermuda made art glass and famous Rum Cakes or the Somers Wharf Complex for a little of everything from Art to Lingerie!. After all that - Why not Stay for the evening - relax a while with an aperitif and ease into an alfresco dinner overlooking the waterfront at Wahoos or Polaris at the Carriage House. A relaxed cab ride home is the perfect ending. Unhurried Unspoiled Uncommon.

Unhurried

Hand made Glass art and souvenirs & Bermuda Rum Cake Free Tasting!

Sundays are special! 2 till 6 in Kings Square and on Water Street.

The Olde Towne Market

Dockside Glass & Rum Cake (441) 297-3908

The Unfinished Church. Originally planned as the Cathedral in the Capital. Victim of Political Intrigue.

The Towne of St. George

www.oldtownemarket.com 6

So much more than a Drug Store

(441) 297-1828

Unspoiled Breakfast Bagels, Sandwiches, Soups, Sinful Desserts. 5

(441) 297-1368

Uncommon 1

on York Street. Could brandy and cigars be anywhere else. (441) 297-1650

From Sushi to the Finest Steaks

WAHOO’s Fine Dining Bistro Patio overlooking the Harbour. Perfect Fish. Genuine Gellati in a dozen flavours. 3

Written and designed by the businesses of St. George’s and on behalf of the entire community, who extend a warm invitation to visit our town for a day.

(441) 297-1307 www.wahoosbistro.bm

POLARIS at The Carriage House 4

(441) 297-1730 / 297-0786 www.polarisrestaurant.com

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Points of interest

SMITH’S PARISH

DEVONSHIRE PARISH

Nonsuch Island

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1-17 See St. George’s Map, page 18 18 Bermuda Institute of Ocean Sciences 19 L.F. Wade International Airport 20 Carter House 21 Great Head National Park 22 St. David’s Lighthouse 23-27 Bailey’s Bay 28 Bermuda Railway Museum 29 Bermuda Aquarium, Museum and Zoo 30 Flatt’s Bridge 31 Devil’s Hole Aquarium 32 Spittal Pond 33 Verdmont 34 Palm Grove 35 Montpelier Arboretum 36 King Edward VII Hospital 37 Botanical Gardens 38 Camden 39 Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art

40 Waterville 41 Paget Marsh 42-55 See Hamilton Map, page 28 56 Fort Hamilton 57 Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute 58 Johnny Barnes Statue 59 Government House 60 Warwick Pond 61 Christ Church 62 Gibb’s Hill Lighthouse 63 Somerset Bridge 64 Scaur Hill Fort 65 Heydon Trust 66 St. James’ Church 67 Springfield Community Centre & Gilbert Nature Reserve 68 Somerset Village 69-75 See Dockyard Map, page 33 71 National Museum of Bermuda

see the sights

Photo by Theresa Airey

The always-cheery Johnny Barnes, who greets commuters every weekday morning.

Our goodwill ambassador starts your day with a smile He’s the ultimate ‘morning person’

Using our maps

and a warm greeting from folk hero

It’s easy to find your way around Bermuda. There are four main arteries: South Road runs along the south shore, North Shore Road hugs the north shore, Middle Road runs through the centre of the island and Harbour Road follows the inner harbour, across from Hamilton. Each road brings you into the city of Hamilton. Key attractions are numbered on our maps and described in the text. Use our large pullout map (between pages 16 & 17) for an island overview; for a map of St. George’s, see page 18, the City of Hamilton on 28, and Dockyard on 33. Also, ‘W’ at the end of a listing denotes ‘wheelchair accessible’.

Johnny Barnes is the ideal way to start your sightseeing tour. Every weekday he’s at Crow Lane roundabout from 6am to 10am, showering city commuters with waves, blown kisses and a smile that could melt the heart of even the most jaded traveller. We begin our tour in the historic former capital, St. George’s. Wherever you go, don’t forget to greet all you meet: as Johnny reminds us each morning — it’s the Bermuda way!

bermuda.com guide 17

see the sights

Silk Alley was named after the swish of 13 14

Old Rectory

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F Ferry

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15 To Gates Fort

Silk All

St. George’s Club

Rose Hill Street

Tucker House Museum er Wat

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St. Peters Church

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To Unfinished Church & Fort St. Catherine St. George’s Historical Society Museum Printery & Museum

et Stre

7 Sir George Somers Statue

Deliverance

Ordnance Island Cruise Ship Terminal

World

5 Heritage

ST. GEORGE’S HARBOUR

Centre

Cruise ship terminal

Penno’s Wharf

Parishes In 1609 the survivors of the English wreck of the Sea Venture struggled onto Bermuda’s shores, well short of their intended destination of Jamestown, Virginia. By 1615 the Somers Island Company was developing Bermuda and exploiting her natural resources. The island was surveyed and what is now St. George’s Parish was set aside as public or company land. The remainder was divided into eight tribes or parishes, named after the principal shareholders in the Somers Island Company. These were, from east to west: Hamilton, 18

bermuda.com guide

Smith’s, Devonshire, Pembroke, Paget, Warwick, Southampton and Sandys. Along with St. George’s, they have become the nine parishes of Bermuda.

ST. GEORGE’S PARISH Bermuda’s oldest town, St. George’s, was founded in 1612 and became a World Heritage Site in 2000. It was our capital until 1815, when Hamilton became the capital. 1-17 are on our detailed map above. 1 St. Peter’s Church, Duke of York St., is the oldest Anglican church in the New World still in use. Open Mon-Sat, 10am4pm, Services Wed 7:30am, Sun 11:15am.

ladies’ petticoats as they walked. Suggested donation of $5 per adult. Call ahead for group visits. Tel: 297-2459 2 Bermuda National Trust Museum at the Globe Hotel, corner Duke of York St. & King’s Square. Built by Governor Samuel Day, circa 1700. The offices of the Confederate agent, Major Norman Walker, were housed here during the American Civil War (1861-1865). The museum highlights Bermuda’s American Civil War involvement along with a video presentation ‘Bermuda: Centre of the Atlantic’. For opening hours tel. 236-6483 or 297-1423. Closed on Public Holidays. Admission: adults $5, children (6-18 years) $2. Gift Shop. *Combination tickets to all 3 museums $10 (#2 Bermuda National Trust Museum, #3 Tucker House, #33 Verdmont). 3 Tucker House, Water Street. Built in the 1750s. Henry Tucker, President of the Governor’s Council, moved here in 1775 and his family stayed until 1809. On view are antique heirlooms from one of Bermuda’s oldest families and a room furnished as a tribute to Joseph Rainey, the first black man to be seated in the U.S. House of Representatives. The cellar houses a permanent archaeological exhibit. For opening hours tel. 236-6483 or 297-0545. Admission: adults $5, children (6-18 years) $2. *Combination tickets to all 3 museums $10 (#2 Bermuda National Trust Museum, #3 Tucker House, #33 Verdmont). 4 St. George’s Post Office, open Mon-Fri 8am-5pm. Tel. 297-1610 5 World Heritage Centre, at Penno’s Wharf in the Queen’s Warehouse, circa 1860. History is brought to life through the St. George’s Foundation’s restoration of this building. Enjoy the Orientation Exhibits Gallery, ‘A Gateway to Bermuda’ and film ‘A Stroll through St. George’s’. Open Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm. Adults $5, students $2. Tel. 297-5791. W 6 Stocks & Pillory and the Ducking Stool re-enactment at King’s Square. See the ‘gossiping wench’ get ducked in the harbour at noon on Mon, Tue, Wed, Thurs &

see the sights

Saturdays. 7 Deliverance, a full-scale replica of the ship built by the Sea Venture castaways to take them on to Virginia. Located across the bridge from King’s Square, on Ordnance Island, open Mon-Sat, 10-4. Adults $3, children $2. Tel. 297-0045. 8 Town Hall, facing King’s Square, the meeting place of the Corporation of St. George’s. Open 9am-4pm, Mon-Sat except holidays. W 9 State House, above and behind the Town Hall, one of the oldest stone buildings on the island, dating from 1620. Originally the seat of government, now a Masonic Lodge. 10 The Bermudian Heritage Museum, junction of York & Water Streets, showcases accomplishments of black Bermudians. Open Mon-Fri, 10am-3 pm. Entry $4. Tel. 297-4126. W (lower floor only). 11 St. George’s Historical Society Museum, Printery & Garden, Featherbed Alley. This historic house, a museum since 1922, features cedar furniture, paintings, and other local relics along with a replica

Photo by Kageaki Smith

In the oldest parts of St. George’s you’ll find quaint alleyways, often bedecked with blossoms.

bermuda.com guide 19

see the sights

Just wide enough for a mast, Somerset

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Gates Fort, a short moped ride from St. George’s, provides beautiful vistas of the ocean.

of an early 16th-century Gutenberg press. Open Mon-Thur & Sat, 10am-4 pm. Adults $5, children $2. Tel. 297-0423 12 The Old Rectory, Broad Alley, behind St. Peter’s Church. Captain George Dew built this Bermuda cottage circa 1699. A private residence owned by the Bermuda National Trust. Exterior viewing only. Tel. 236-6483 13 Unfinished Church. Top of Duke of Kent St. This magnificent Gothic revival structure was meant to be a replacement for St. Peter’s Church. Started in the 1870s it was beset by financial difficulties, parish infighting and a damaging storm. It was abandoned on the eve of its completion. 14 Fort St. Catherine, off Barry Road. 19th-century fort contains cannon, guns, military exhibits. Open Mon-Fri, 9:30am4.30pm. Last entry at 4 pm. Adults $7, children 5 to 15, $3 (must be accompanied by an adult), seniors $5. Tel. 297-1920 W 15 Gates Fort dates from the early 17th century. Originally a small sea battery of three guns. Open during daylight hours.

20 bermuda.com guide

16 Somers Garden, Duke of York Street. British Admiral Sir George Somers was shipwrecked in Bermuda in 1609, continued his journey to Virginia and then returned to the island in 1610. When he died in Bermuda his heart was buried here and his body was taken to England. Open daily 7.30am-7pm 17 The Bermuda Perfumery is located in historic Stewart Hall, 5 Queen Street. For more than 80 years, the Bermuda Perfumery has been creating and manufacturing perfumes and all are made on the premises. Take a free tour and sample unique fragrances. Open Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm. Tel. 293-0627

Refer to the large pullout map. 18 Bermuda Institute of Ocean Sciences,

Ferry Reach. On Wednesdays at 10am, visit this world-renowned research station. Take a free tour of the laboratories, grounds and learn about ongoing projects.  www.bios. edu Tel. 297-1880 19 L.F. Wade International Airport 20 Carter House. An historic stone struc-

Bridge is the world’s smallest drawbridge.

see the sights

ture thought to be the oldest dwelling in St. David’s. Admission $2. For opening hours Tel. 293-5960 21 Great Head National Park. At the end of Battery Road, St. David’s, lies a 20th-century abandoned fortification surrounded by open spaces, plus a Lost at Sea Memorial. 22 St. David’s Lighthouse. Stands at the top of Lighthouse Hill Road. Open Mon-Fri 7.30am - 4pm except June, July & Aug, open Mon-Sun 10am-4pm, tel. 236-5902.

HAMILTON PARISH Named after James Hamilton, second Marquis of Hamilton, an original member of Somers islands Company. Refer to the large pullout map. 23 After leaving the Causeway go up Blue Hole Hill to the junction of Wilkinson Ave & North Shore Rd. You are now in Bailey’s Bay. 24 Blue Hole Hill Park. Located just over the Causeway, the park joins Walsingham

Photo by Kageaki Smith

The Crystal Caves, a must-visit site, have been beguiling tourist for decades.

Nature Reserve and provides an excellent walking trail. 25 Crystal Caves, 8 Crystal Caves Rd, Hamilton Parish. Formed more than 30 million years ago, Crystal Cave Road was discovered in 1905 when 14-year old Bernard Wilkinson stumbled upon a cave opening. He was later lowered down the 140-foot

GOVERNMENT OF BERMUDA Ministry of Energy, Telecommunications and E-Commerce Bermuda Post Office

The Bermuda Post Office is pleased to offer “Dockyard Apprentices: Pioneers of Progress”, a series of four stamps depicting the role of Bermudian apprentices in the worldwide system of British Naval Dockyards.

Dockyard Apprentices

110

Dockyard Apprentices

RELEASE DATE: 23 SEPTEMBER 2010 | COST PER SET $3.00 | OFFICIAL FIRST DAY COVER $5.00 bermuda.com guide 21

see the sights

Bermuda’s capital city, Hamilton, is

Photo by Jamie Macmillan

Flatts Bridge provides wonderful views of Harrington Sound and Flatts Inlet.

drop where he saw the magnificent crystal stalactites and stalagmites that surround a clear 55-foot deep lake. Tours 9:30am4:30pm year round. One cave, adults $20, children (under 13) $8, (under 5) free. Combination tickets, adults $27, children (under 13) $10, (under 5) free. Last combination tour starts 3.45pm. Tel. 293-0640 26 Holy Trinity Church, Trinity Church Road. The Anglican Church of Hamilton Parish offers a scenic and tranquil respite from sightseeing. 27 Tom Moore’s Jungle, Bailey’s Bay. Woods surrounding Tom Moore’s Tavern are a must for nature lovers. The poet Tom Moore spent happy hours writing his verses here. Tours are available for groups via the Parks Dept., Tel. 236-5902.

SMITH’S PARISH Named after one of the nine chief investors of the Somers Isles (Bermuda) Company, Sir Thomas Smith. Refer to the large pullout map. 29 The Bermuda Aquarium, Museum & Zoo boasts native fish, exotic reptiles, free-

22 bermuda.com guide

flying birds, and pink flamingos in a beautiful, colourful setting. Exhibits include ‘North Rock’, a 140,000-gallon  replica of a local living coral reef, and ‘Islands of Australasia’, the interactive ‘Discovery Cove’ and scenic ‘Coastal Walkway’. The Natural History Museum focuses on the island’s geology, native biodiversity and habitats. Open daily 9am-5pm. (last admission 4pm). Adults $10, children (5-12 years) $5. Tel. 293-2727 W 30 Flatts Bridge. Wander across to quaint Flatts Village with its magnificent views of the Inlet and Harrington Sound. 31 Devil’s Hole Aquarium, Harrington Sound Road: Bermuda’s oldest attraction features a natural aquarium where you can see a 75-year-old turtle and try to catch a large fish. Open daily mid April through Sept. Adults $10, children under 12 $5, seniors $5. Also daily boat tours of Harrington Sound and entry to aquarium $55 adults, $35 children. Tel. 293-2072 32 Spittal Pond, South Road, this 64-acre reserve is part of a necklace of wetlands along the south shore, providing a diversity of habitats and a wide variety of birds, especially during migration seasons. Owned

antipode to Perth, Western Australia. by Bermuda National Trust and government’s Parks Dept. Open daily dawn to dusk, admission free. Tel. 236-6483 33 Verdmont, corner of Collector’s Hill & Sayle Road. A National Trust museum built about 1710 in the Georgian style, Verdmont houses our finest collection of antique Bermuda cedar furniture, porcelain, portraits, children’s furniture and toys. A new exhibit highlights the people who lived at Verdmont. For opening hours tel. 2366483 or 236-7369. Closed holidays. Adults $5, children (6-18 years) $2. *Combination tickets to all 3 museums $10 (#2 Bermuda National Trust Museum, #3 Tucker House, #33 Verdmont).

DEVONSHIRE PARISH Named after William Cavendish, 1st Earl of Devonshire. Refer to the large pullout map. 34 Palm Grove, South Road. Wellmanicured private estate has an unusual bas-relief ‘water map’ of Bermuda, an aviary and many varieties of palms. Open

see the sights

Mon-Thur 9am-5pm (closed holidays). 35 Montpelier Arboretum, Middle Road. A tranquil retreat featuring a wide range of island trees and plants.

PAGET PARISH Named after William Paget, 4th Baron Paget de Beaudesert. Refer to the large pullout map. 36 King Edward VII Memorial Hospital, Point Finger Road. See page 68. Tel. 2362345 37 Botanical Gardens, Berry Hill, Point Finger & South Roads. Open daily sunrise to sunset. Enjoy hundreds of well-marked flowers, shrubs and trees. Admission free. On Tue, Wed & Fri mornings free tours at 10:30am, departing from the car park outside the entrance to the Visitors’ Centre, weather permitting. Tearoom & gift shop open Mon-Fri 9:30am-3:30pm. Open Sat 10am-2pm from May to Oct. Tel. 236-5291. W 38 Camden, South Road, in the grounds Continued on page 26

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Wander through our beautiful Botanical Gardens — an idyllic picnic spot.

bermuda.com guide 23

see the sights

Car rentals are not permitted in Bermuda.

Continued from page 23 of the Botanical Gardens. Official residence of the Premier, used for official functions only. Open Tues & Fri noon-2pm, weather permitting. 39 Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art, includes Bermuda inspired work by Winslow Homer and Georgia O’Keeffe, plus changing exhibits. Open Mon-Sat 10am-4pm, closed public holidays. Adults $5, children under 12 free. Homers Café open 10.30am-4pm Mon-Sat. Tel. 2362950 W 40 Waterville. An elegant house, built circa 1725, now the HQ of the Bermuda National Trust. See the Bermuda Rose Society’s showcase garden and the Mary-Jean Mitchell Green Memorial Garden & Gazebo. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, admission free. Tel. 236-6483 41 Paget Marsh and Boardwalk, Paget Parish. Lush 25-acre nature reserve, a joint project of the Bermuda National Trust & Bermuda Audubon Society. The pond and marsh attract many birds. Open daily, daylight hours, free. Tel. 236-6483

PEMBROKE PARISH Named after English aristocrat William Herbert, 3rd Earl of Pembroke (15801630). Home of our capital city of Hamilton since 1815. Refer to large pullout map and see our   detailed City Map on page 28 42 Barr’s Bay Park, on Hamilton Harbour beside the Royal Bermuda Yacht Club on Pitt’s Bay Road. Sit in the sun and watch the boats sail by. W 43 Point Pleasant Park by the waterfront, Albuoys Point, next to the Ferry Terminal. Relax on a bench, bring a picnic lunch. W 44 The Birdcage, a photogenic traffic kiosk at the corner of Front & Queen Streets. 45 Perot Post Office, Queen Street. An architectural gem and a handy spot to buy stamps, transport passes, tickets and tokens. Credit cards accepted. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm Tel. 292-9052 W 46 Bermuda National Library & Historical Society Museum, Queen Street. Set in the gardens of Par-la-Ville Park. Library open Mon-Thurs 8:30am-7pm (July & Aug

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Pop into charming Perot Post Office in Hamilton and admire its beautiful cedarwork.

26 bermuda.com guide

See

Explore two ﬂoors of interactive exhibits

Survive a simulated shark attack

Learn about cutting edge marine technology

Unsolved Bermuda’s greatest

mystery, the missing Tucker Cross

See the

TITANIC

then and now

Discover one of the world’s

largest shell collections

BUEI BERMUDA UNDERWATER EXPLORATION INSTITUTE

Located near Hamilton, on East Broadway. Bus Routes 1,3,7,& 8. Open 7 days a week. info@buei.org • www.buei.org 441.292.7219

Great for all ages!

28 bermuda.com guide

oad ille R La-V Par-

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iana

Road

PARK

Chamber of Commerce

Ferry Terminal

Albouys Point

Royal POINT Bermuda Yacht Club PLEASANT 43

BARRâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BAY PARK

Queen Street

44 Flag Pole

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Burnaby Street

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Wesley Street

46 45

Bus Terminal

No 6 Passenger Terminal

Reid Street

51 52

Church Street

Cathedral

Victoria Street

H.M. Customs

Cenotaph

The Cabinet Building

Sessions House

Dept. of Tourism

Front Street

Reid Street

57-58 Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute

Fort Hamilton

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Fire Department

Ha p

King Street

PAR-LAVILLE PARK

Church Street

50 VICTORIA PARK

Dundonald Street

Court Street

City Hall

Victoria Street

Park Road

Dundonald Street King Street

Historical Society Museum

I Visitor Information Centre

T Taxi

HAMILTON

see the sights Use pink bus stops for travel into Hamilton

and blue for heading away from the city. until 6pm), Fri 10am-5pm, Sat 9am-5pm, Sun 1pm-5pm (closed Sun, July and Aug). Tel. 295-2905. Museum open 10am-2pm Mon-Fri (May–Oct); 10:30am–1pm Mon, Tues, Wed, Fri (Nov–April) closed holidays. Free. Tel. 295-2487 W 47 City Hall, 17 Church Street, one of Hamilton’s most beautiful public buildings. Houses City Hall Theatre, the Mayor’s Parlour and Corporation of Hamilton offices. Tel. 292-1234. The Bermuda National Gallery is on the second floor (tel. 295-9428), featuring both historic and contemporary local and international art. Open Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat 10am-2pm, closed holidays. Guided tours Thursdays, 10:30am. Free. Also home to the Bermuda Society of Arts Gallery, which hosts rotating exhibitions. Open Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat 10am-2pm, closed holidays. Free. Tel. 292-3824 W 48 Central Bus Terminal, Washington Street, close to City Hall. All routes serving Hamilton arrive and leave from here. See page 62 49 Par-la-Ville Park, Queen Street, Hamilton. A haven for relaxation in the middle of our bustling city. W 50 Victoria Park, Cedar Avenue. Lovely park created in the 1880s to commemorate the Golden Jubilee of Queen Victoria. W 51 Anglican Cathedral, Church Street, a neo-Gothic city landmark. Open 8am-5pm.

see the sights

Located at the National Museum of Bermuda. Call 441.234.4464 or visit dolphinquest.com to make a reservation. Bermuda • Hawaii • Oahu A portion of the proceeds from Dolphin Quest supports vital marine education, conservation and research.

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Small but lovely Victoria Park is a good spot to enjoy a take-out lunch.

bermuda.com guide 29

see the sights

Mark Twain: “I’d rather be in Bermuda.”

The cathedral tower, with panoramic views of the city, is open 9am-4pm Mon-Fri. Audio tours $3, tower entry $3. Sunday service at 8am and 10am. Tel. 292-4033 W 52 General Post Office, corner of Parliament & Church Streets. Open Mon-Fri 8am5pm, Sat 8am-noon W 53 Sessions House & Jubilee Clock Tower. The House of Assembly meets Fridays at 10am. Visitors are permitted in the gallery; dress appropriately. Tel. 292-7408. The Supreme Court is located on the lower floor of the Sessions House, visitors are permitted.  Tel. 292-1350 W 54 The Cabinet Building, Front and Parliament streets. Here the Senate (our upper house) meets Wednesdays at 10am. Visitors are permitted. Fronted by the Cenotaph on Front Street, a memorial to war veterans, and Sally Bassett statue. Tel. 292-5501 55 Bermuda National Library Youth Division, 74 Church Street. Open Mon-Thurs & Sat 9am-5pm, Fri 10am-5pm. Tel. 295-0487 56 Fort Hamilton, approached by Victoria & King Streets & Happy Valley Road. A restored fort, its moat is filled with native

plants and shrubs. Spectacular views of the city and harbour. Open daily 9am-5pm. Free. W 57 The Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute (BUEI), a 10-minute walk from the city centre, on East Broadway. Features two floors of interactive exhibits revealing the mysteries of the ocean. Experience deep-sea exploration through the eyes of world-renowned explorers including Bermuda’s own Teddy Tucker. See artefacts and treasure recovered from shipwrecks around Bermuda. Gift shop and waterside restaurant, The Harbourfront. Open Mon–Fri 9am-5pm, Sat & Sun 10am-5pm. Last admission 4pm. Members free, adults $12.50, seniors $10, children (7-16) $6, children (under 6) free. Tel. 297-7314. W 58 Johnny Barnes Statue. Just down the road from the BUEI, a life-size statue of our unofficial ambassador of goodwill, Johnny Barnes (see page 17), by sculptor Desmond Fountain. 59 Government House, North Shore Road & Langton Hill. The imposing residence of His Excellency the Governor.

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Seat of power: The majestic Cabinet Building is where Bermuda’s Premier has her office.

30 bermuda.com guide

see the sights

See the Longtails swooping out from Stunning Warwick Long Bay, one of our most spectacular beaches. Photo by Kageaki Smith

WARWICK PARISH Named after Robert Rich, 2nd Earl of Warwick (1587-1658). Centrally located with many beautiful beaches along the South Shore. Refer to the large pullout map. 60 Warwick Pond. Take a walk on the interpretive woodland nature trail in this nine-acre nature reserve, with Bermuda’s second largest fresh water pond. Open daylight hours. 61 Christ Church, historic Presbyterian Church dating back to 1719, one of the oldest in the western hemisphere.

SOUTHAMPTON PARISH Named after Henry Wriothesley, 3rd Earl of Southampton (1573-1624). Boasts many beaches including the most popular, Horseshoe Bay Beach. Refer to the large pullout map. 62 Gibbs Hill Lighthouse provides pan-

oramic views and there’s a restaurant, too, The Dining Room. Lighthouse open daily 9am-4:30pm. Adults $2.50, children (4 and under) free. Tel. 238-0524

SANDYS PARISH (Somerset) Named after English aristocrat Sir Edwin Sandys (1561-1629). The western-most parish, made up of five islands. Refer to the large pullout map. 63 Somerset Bridge is the smallest drawbridge in the world; just wide enough to let the mast of a sailboat pass through. 64 Scaur Hill Fort, Somerset Road. Enjoy breathtaking views of the Great Sound and Ely’s Harbour. Open daily 7:30am-4pm, free. Grounds open 24 hours. Tel. 236-5902. 65 Heydon Trust, 43 acres of meticulously

32 bermuda.com guide

see the sights

their cliffside nests on South Shore. Royal Naval Dockyard T Taxi

Dockyard Glassworks & Bermuda Rum Cake Company

Bermuda Clayworks

Snorkel Park Beach

Maritime Lane

Storehouse Lane

Cloc ktow er P arad e

THE CAMBER

69 Watersports Centre

Clocktower Shopping Mall

Victualling Yard

Dockyard

DOCKYARD GATE

Bermuda Arts Centre

Camber Road

THE KEEP

Bermuda Craft Market

Commissioner’s House

National Museum of Bermuda

Visitor Information Centre

Dolphin Quest

No rth

Dockyard Marina

Arm

Ferry Stop

Visitor Information Centre

Cruise Ship Terminal

KING’S WHARF

Visitor Information Centre

preserved grounds, filled with indigenous plants. The tiny, exquisite chapel was built in the 1620s. Open daily, dawn till dusk, free. 66 St. James’ Church, the Anglican church of Somerset, has a graceful spire and imposing walkway. 67 Springfield Community Centre & Gilbert Nature Reserve, Somerset. This National Trust Property once comprised a small plantation. Springfield, the old mansion with buttery and slave quarters, dates back to 1740. Five acres of walking trails. 68 Somerset Village overlooks charming Mangrove Bay. Stop for a meal or some shopping. 69 Enter the Royal Naval Dockyard through stone gates. This major attraction includes the Clocktower Mall, a Craft Market, the Bermuda Arts Centre, restaurants and entertainment — all housed in restored naval buildings. 70 Dockyard Visitor Information Centre is near the fast ferry dock. Open daily, 9am5pm. Tel. 238-4842 71 The National Museum of Bermuda includes the Commissioner’s House, which exhibits our rich nautical history and

HERITAGE WHARF

extensive artefact collections. Open daily, 9:30am-5pm, last admission 4pm. Adults $10, senior citizens $8 and children 12 and under free, if accompanied by an adult. Tel. 234-1418. W 72 Dolphin Quest Bermuda, Dockyard. Enjoy an extraordinary encounter with dolphins. Open 9:30am-4:30pm daily. Reservations required. www.dolphinquest.org  Tel: 234-4464 or toll free 800-248-3316 73 The Craft Market in the Old Cooperage features Bermuda cedar work, candle and jewellery making, pottery, banana dolls and many other crafts, with demonstrations by local artisans. Open daily 9am-5pm and until 8pm when cruise ships are in port. Tel:. 234-3208. W 74 The Bermuda Arts Centre features studios housing various artists which change every few weeks. A shop offers an extensive range of locally made gifts, paintings, sculptures and a wide print selection. Open daily 10am-5pm (closed Good Friday & Christmas Day). Tel. 234-2809 W 75 Clocktower Shopping Mall boasts a delightful collection of boutiques and branch stores in a charming, covered mall. W

bermuda.com guide 33

arts

Photos courtesy of the National Museum of Bermuda

Spellbinding: The mural is a visual history of Bermuda from its early days of settlement 400 years ago.

Behold: Our Sistine Chapel By Laura GorhaM | Bermuda boasts her fair share of natural wonders — Horseshoe Bay, coral reefs, turquoise waters — but only one contemporary, man-made marvel. It’s a magnificent mural tracing our history, the sheer size and scope of which has been described as “epic”. It graces a rear stairwell at the beautifully restored Commissioner’s House at Dockyard. The Hall of History mural is breathtaking; as close as our island gets The mural: Fast facts • Painting started late 2005 • Completed March 2009 • 7,000 hours of work • Panels painted in studio, then transferred • Venue in ruins when work began

34 bermuda.com guide

to the heroically decorated ceiling of the Vatican’s Sistine Chapel. This mammoth, two storey, 1,000-squarefoot masterpiece took Bermudian artist Graham Foster three-and-a-half years to complete and is by far the most impressive commissioned work of art on our island.

AfricAn Sculpture by thE ShonA MAStEr FinE ArtiStS oF ZiMbAbwE

Mike and Dusty Hind in the Gallery.

Magnificent works handcarved in rare stones by the Shona Master Fine Artists of Zimbabwe. Exquisite animals, wonderful heads, and intriguing abstracts. My daughter by Israel Chikumbirike in Brown Verdite 27" x 16" x 13"

2nd Floor, Crisson Building 71 Front street, Hamilton (The yellow building next to the Emporium) Phone 441-295-1117

arts

Images depicting modern-day Bermuda complete the artist’s visual journey.

Hanging around: Artist Graham used lots ingenuity to complete his mammoth task.

Mr. Foster commemorates 400 years of Bermuda history in his distinctive surrealist style, taking the viewer on a scenic journey from the 1609 wreck of the Sea Venture and the first settlers hunting wild hogs, through to modern Bermuda with its cruise ships and construction cranes. Vignettes trace the growth of human 36 bermuda.com guide

settlement, marine and plant life, architecture, folk traditions and lore, transport, commerce, religion and culture. The attention to detail, coupled with the artist’s bewitching style, ensures that the more you look, the more you see. The mural is such a valuable record of history that its images have been used as a teaching aid in local schools. Born in 1970, Graham Foster earned a BFA from the Museum of Fine Art, Boston and has been a professional artist since 1995. Whether his stunning mural is viewed as a significant work of art or a history lesson, it commands close attention. More at his website: www.grahamfoster.com. n The Commissioner’s House, which houses the mural, forms part of the National Museum of Bermuda, open every day, 9.30am – 5pm (last admission 4pm). Tel. 234-1418

Winslow Homer enjoyed painting here. Get your art fix Our island is small but the arts scene is lively and diverse. International and local artists are showcased at a range of local galleries. See the Arts section of our What’s On pages for the latest exhibition info. Our art hot spots include: n Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art Botanical Gardens, Paget. Tel. 236-2950. www.bermudamasterworks.com n Crisson & Hind Art Gallery Hand-carved sculptures from Zimbabwe. 71 Front St, Hamilton. Tel. 295-1117. www.crissonandhind.com n National Museum of Bermuda Open daily 9:30am-5pm. Dockyard. Tel. 234-1418. www.bmm.bm n Bermuda Arts Centre at Dockyard Open daily 10am-5pm. Dockyard. Tel. 234-2809. www.artbermuda.bm

Masterworks The Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art is home to an impressive collection of over 1,200 pieces of Bermuda inspired art. Renowned artists such as Georgia O’Keefe, Marsden Hartley, Winslow Homer and Albert Gleizes are part of the Permanent Collection and there is a constantly evolving showcase of local artists. The museum shop sells prints and original local art, and Homer’s Café serves a wide selection of baked goods, lunch items and even afternoon tea. To learn about Bermuda’s culture and history there is no better stop on your vacation itinerary than The Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art. Museum is accessible with ramps and an elevator. Open MonSat, 10am-4pm. $5 admission, free for members and children under 12. Closed public holidays.

Monday-Saturday | 10:00am - 4:00pm Closed on Public Holidays museum is accessible with ramps and an elevator.

The Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art is home to an impressive collection of over 1,200 pieces of Bermuda inspired art; some by such famous names as Georgia O’Keeffe, Winslow Homer and Albert Gleizes. The museum shop sells prints and original local art; a perfect keepsake to take home! To learn about Bermuda’s culture and history there is no better stop on your vacation itinerary.

at masterworks HOURS OF OPERATION

Monday - Saturday

10:30am - 4:00pm Sandwiches, paninis, salads, quiche, soup, hot lunches, baked goods, specialty coffees, afternoon tea and even picnic baskets to go! we also offer a range of bakery products that are gluten free Serviced by

The Botanical Gardens • 183 South Road Paget, DV 04 • Bermuda Tel: (441) 236-2950 • Fax: (441)-236-4402

www.bermudamasterworks.com bermuda.com guide 37

arts

historic treasure

Photos by Kageaki Smith

History at your fingertips: Craftsman William Wivell of Walker Christopher Goldsmiths works on a Spanish cob.

Coins bear weight of history By Jack Garstang | From the early sixteenth century, Spanish ships returning from their colonies in Central and South America embarked on the hazardous task of shipping their precious cargo from the New World back to the Old. They used Bermuda as a landmark, but some ended up stricken on our outer reefs. Many ships carried silver and gold, mined and minted into coinage in Mexico, Bolivia and Peru and destined for the Spanish treasuries of Cadiz and Seville. Surviving crewmen were sometimes able to salvage their cargo before locals could get at it. But storms and hurricanes took their toll on many â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;treasure shipsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; well before they caught sight of Bermuda. Salvaging from wrecks was tough. But Richard Norwood, hired as a diver in a futile search for Bermuda pearls, invented the Bermuda Tub in 1612. This primitive diving bell, made from a weighted wine cask, could be lowered over a wreck site and enabled a diver to stay underwater for 45 minutes. 38 bermuda.com guide

Juan Bermudez found Bermuda in 1505. historic treasure In 1641, it was used to recover silver from The Concepción, which came to grief north of Hispaniola (Dominican Republic), carrying tons of silver and gold. In 1715, the Spanish Plate Fleet sank in a hurricane off Florida. While the Spanish were salvaging, their base camp was raided by privateer Henry Jennings, who fled with 120,000 pieces of eight. He retired to Bermuda to live the life of a gentleman. Sea-salvaged coins still have strong appeal; the law forbids you from keeping anything found at a wreck but you can find pieces of eight and gold doubloons for sale on Hamilton’s Front Street. William Wivell of Walker Christopher Goldsmiths sets gold and silver coins — some from Bermuda wrecks — into handcrafted jewellery. “Gold coins remain the same as the day they went to the bottom,” he told us. Owning a significant old coin puts you in touch with the past, as coins bear the weight of history. n

Treasure coins from shipwrecks around the world, set in 14k and 18k gold.

WALKER CHRISTOPHER GOLDSMITHS A Henry V noble, one of many historic coins fashioned into keepsakes by Walker Christopher Goldsmiths.

NO. 9 FRONT STREET, HAMILTON Telephone (441)295-1466 bermuda.com guide 39

history

Photo courtesy of the National Museum of Bermuda

The U.S. Army installing the northern 6-inch gun at Fort Victoria, St. George’s, to protect the eastern approach to the island against enemy attack in 1943.

Our fiery links to the U.S. By JACK GARSTANG | American visitors and business folk are the

lifeblood of Bermuda’s economy and we enjoy long-standing ties built on mutual respect and admiration. History shows, however, that it hasn’t always been so. We’ve had our share of skirmishes and there are good reasons why our little speck of land, just 750 miles off North Carolina, was never annexed by the Americans but instead remained a British colony. The forts dotted across Bermuda provide us with tangible clues. Britain, you’ll recall, was at war against the rebellious American colonies in the mid 1770s and in 1812 we were at war again. With the loss of naval bases in the American colonies, Bermuda, strategically placed between Canada and the Caribbean, became vital to the Royal Navy. It played a pivotal role in the defence of British interests and proved too difficult a target for a fledgling U.S. navy. The island was first fortified at the time of settlement in 1612 to protect against Spanish and pirate attacks. By the end of the American Revolutionary War, 50 forts stood against the threat posed by the new 40 bermuda.com guide

history

Bermuda is the oldest British colony.

Independent Colonies. with 1,800 blockade-runners stopping Royal Naval Dockyard was built in at Bermuda with their cargo en route to the early 1800s to solidify the island’s Southern ports. The boom times ended in defences and ensure Britain’s dominance 1864 when an outbreak of yellow fever on in the western Atlantic. By the late 19th the island discouraged ships from landing. century, the island was transformed into It is ironic, given that the bulk of Ber‘fortress Bermuda’. muda’s fortifications were in place to deal Despite these conflicts, Bermudians with an American threat, that the island’s have always maintained close ties with defence was handed over to U.S. forces the U.S. through trade, family ties and during World War II. friendship. There was sympathy here for The U.S. Naval Air Station at Kindley the Colonists’ cause in 1775; a group of Field, St. David’s, operational until 1995, was prominent Bermudians conspired with seen as strategically useful during the Cold the rebel colonies in America to steal the War. The Americans introduced us to the island’s supply of gunpowder — a crime for motor car and built an airfield, which helped which no one was charged. tourism and international business take off. Bermuda profited during the calamity From the time of the Jamestown colony of the American Civil War as a centre for 400 years ago, Bermuda’s history has blockade running. President Lincoln had been intertwined with that of the United ordered a naval blockade of Southern States. By exploring Bermuda’s history, Bermuda.com 1/2 ad:Layout 2 3/1/10 10:43 AM Page 1 ports to stop cotton supplies getting out. American visitors will inevitably learn Here, St. George’s was a hub of activity, more about their own. n

National Treasure Bermuda Maritime Museum is now the NATIONAL MUSEUM OF BERMUDA, home to 500 years of Island culture and history. Explore exciting exhibits in our historic military buildings— and watch for many more as we grow!

Royal Naval Dockyard, Sandys Tel. 441-234-1418 • www.bmm.bm Open every day 9:30am–5pm (last admission 4pm)

NATIONALMUSEUM BERMUDA OF

Incorporating BERMUDA MARITIME MUSEUM

bermuda.com guide 41

fun with kids

Photos by Kageaki Smith

Learning about marine life is fun at the interactive Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute.

Hot spots for family fun By TERRI MELLO | Sure, Bermuda is great for honeymooners and couples. Pink-sand beaches and turquoise water provide the perfect backdrop for a romantic getaway for two. And then there’s the rest of us: the ones with whiny toddlers or easily-bored grade-schoolers in tow, trying to quiet the screaming baby on the plane or stop the pre-schooler from kicking his seat. What can Bermuda offer us? The answer? Lots. Here are a few mom-tested suggestions. Spittal Pond Nature Reserve Located on the shoreline in Smith’s Parish, kids love wandering along the winding trails, over the rocks and through the woods. You’ll see cows too, grazing at the entrance. Great picnic spot.

Bermuda Aquarium, Museum & Zoo (BAMZ) A must, whatever your age. Gaze at sharks and barracuda in the dramatic North Rock Tank, get close to giant 42 bermuda.com guide

tortoises and dip into the touch pool. Leave time for the playground before you go (it’s just past the alligator and yes, it’s real!) Tel: 293-2727

Dockyard Take the fast ferry from Hamilton. At Snorkel Park, kids can swim, splash in the fountains or use the playground. Dolphin Quest (tel: 234-4464) is a short walk away.

Botanical Gardens An ideal spot to burn energy, five minutes

fun with kids

Our main beaches have lifeguards. from Hamilton. Explore the gardens and greenhouses, palm groves and grassy hills. Kick a football, throw a Frisbee, bring a picnic.

BGA Play Gym The Bermuda Gymnastics Association (tel: 295-0589) offers Play Gym for kids ages four and under in St. David’s on Wednesdays from 9:30-11:30am, for $5 per hour (no registration necessary). Small children love climbing, sliding and bouncing around the colourful mats and equipment.

Beaches Next to famous Horseshoe Bay Beach in Southampton is what’s locally known as Baby Beach. Turn right as you walk onto Horseshoe and you’ll find this beautiful cove, shallow and calm and perfect for little ones. Another kid-friendly beach is Tobacco Bay in the east end. Perfect for snorkelling and swimming with shallow

water and protective rocks. Bathrooms and refreshments available.

Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute (BUEI) Explore the ocean without getting wet! Stop in the seashell room and then take a simulated submarine dive to the lower level. Bring along a handful of American quarters for the little merry-go-round at the exit. Tel: 292-7219

Playgrounds No matter where you are, there’s a playground nearby. A few favourites include Shelly Bay (there’s also a kid-friendly beach here), Warwick Long Bay, Clearwater Beach (St. David’s) and Parson’s Road (Pembroke).

Palm Grove Gardens This free attraction near Ariel Sands Resort is rarely busy and offers beautiful scenery as well as an aviary with parrots.

Tiny Tots at Masterworks The Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art (in the Botanical Gardens) offers story time and art and craft for toddlers on Wednesdays from 10-11:30am ($10 for nonmembers). Tel: 236-2950.

At night…

Who’s the King of the Playground? Shelly Bay has swings, a slide – and a lovely beach.

We have four movie theatres and they often play animated features and other child-friendly movies. The Speciality Cinema and Grill (tel: 292-2135) and Liberty Theatre (292-7296) are in the city of Hamilton, Neptune Cinema (also 292-7296) is in Dockyard and Southside Cinema (297-2821) is in St. David’s. See the Bermuda Sun newspaper for movie listings. If food’s the priority, kid-friendly eateries include LaTrattoria, Rosa’s Cantina and Flanagan’s (all in the city) and Bone Fish Bar and Grill at Dockyard. n bermuda.com guide 43

sports & activities n Golf Bermuda has more golf courses per square mile than any other country in the world. Some courses are private but many hotels can introduce their guests to these clubs and arrange tee times. See pages 46-47.

n Tennis

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Our magnificent Port Royal course is the home of the Grand Slam of Golf.

Enjoy the great outdoors By James Whittaker | If you’re the outdoors type, you’ve chosen the right spot. There’s no shortage of opportunities for the active visitor. Here’s our quick guide to what’s out there. 44 bermuda.com guide

Most courts are attached to hotels but another option is to play at the government-run tennis stadium, which has both clay and hard courts. It’s on Marsh Folly Road, a 10-minute walk from the centre of Hamilton. Open 8am-10pm Tennis is a yearMon-Fri, 8am-7pm round activity here. Sat-Sun and courts Photo by Tony McWilliam are $10 an hour (double it under floodlights). Tel: 292-0105 to book a court (though they won’t reserve it more than two days in advance of your game).

n Water sports Whether it’s an exciting ride on a jet ski or a gentle paddle around our hidden coves on a kayak, you’ll want to get out on the water. Kayaks, Jet Skis, Boston whalers, windsurfers and Hobie Cats are the most popular rentals. See pages 48-49.

n Diving Our coral reefs have been a graveyard for ships for centuries. From civil war blockaderunners to a B-29 airplane, this is the wreck capital of the Atlantic and a mecca for SCUBA divers. Beginners welcome. See pages 52-53 for more on shipwrecks plus dive operator listings, and pages 50-51

Babe Ruth golfed in Bermuda.

sports & activities

for our diving feature.

n Sports fishing With the deep ocean just offshore, Bermuda offers world class fishing — see pages 5455. There are lots of pros ready to take you out — among them, Baxter’s Reef Fishing (Tel: 234-2963). Visit www.bermuda.com for more listings.

n Cycling Our coastal roads and the route of the old railway trail are great for bikers, but try to avoid rush hours. You can hire bicycles at Wheels (Tel: 292-2245) and Oleander (Tel: 236-5235), both have numerous outlets.

n Rock climbing Test your skills on the Rock Climbing Wall at the Olympic Club, Dundonald Street, Hamilton (Tel: 292-4095).

n Bowling For a rainy day or a family evening out, try

Hartley’s Reef Safari Having some advantages over scuba diving and many over snorkeling, helmet diving is the safest and easiest way to explore the marine environment. The undersea walk was started by Bronson Hartley in the 1930s. Off Somerset, his son Gregory continues the tradition of training and taming fish in the wild. Hold Leroy the snapper or Barack the grouper and see Diana the angelfish swim through a hoop. The helmet works like a glass turned upside down. Your head stays totally dry, you can safely wear glasses or contact lenses. Just breathe, walk and have fun. Tel: 234-2861. www.hartleybermuda.com. hartley@logic.bm Warwick Lanes in Warwick (Tel: 236-5290) or Southside Family Bowl (Tel: 293-5906) in St David’s.

bermuda.com guide 45

Golf Guide 2010:Layout 1

sports & activities

3/1/10

11:25 AM

Page 5

JFK fell off while riding his moped HOLE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

YDS 339 386 378 115 368 470 178 329 326

PAR 4 4 4 3 4 5 3 4 4

HOLE 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

YDS 329 172 533 344 350 436 385 167 412

PAR 4 3 5 4 4 4 4 3 4

OUT

2,829

OUT

2,971

TOTAL 6,017

BELMONT HILLS GOLF COURSE • 236-6060 Overlooking Bermuda’s Bermuda’sfamous famousturquoise turquoise Belmont Hills Overlooking seasea Belmont Hills GolfGolf ClubClub feafeatures Bermuda’s first ever championshipgolf golfcourse coursecombined combinedwith with aa first tures Bermuda’s first ever championship class teaching facility. Belmont Hills Golf Club recently received the Bermuda Gold, Best of Bermuda Awards for the “best place to play a round of golf.” HOLE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

YDS 438 567 148 458 380 370 517 213 383

PAR 4 5 3 4 4 4 5 3 4

HOLE 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

YDS 350 443 383 235 393 412 235 507 410

PAR 4 4 4 3 4 4 3 5 4

OUT

3,474

3,368

OUT

3,474

TOTAL 6,842

PORT ROYAL GOLF COURSE • 234-0974 Owned / Operated by the Bermuda Government

Port Royal is the longest course in Bermuda and offers a great challenge for all who play it. With its spectacular views of the ocean it is a course not to missedby byvisitors. visitors. After be missed After a round of relax golf, at relax Port Royal’s 64º a round of golf, PortatRoyal’s 64º Restauand the watch the sunset to off round off a perfect day in paradise. Restaurant and watch sunset to round a perfect day in paradise. rant

46 bermuda.com guide

on sports & what’s activities

on Burnt House Hill in 1953.

HOLE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

YDS 469 151 360 355 500 387 190 336 192

TOTAL 2,940

PAR 5 3 4 4 5 4 3 4 3 35

OCEAN VIEW GOLF COURSE • 295-9092 Owned / Operated by the Bermuda Government

This superbly challenging course has proven to be as competitive as it is picturesque. The elevated, central location offers wide North Shore vistas. With 18 tee positions, you’ll want to add a second nine to your conquest of the first. Website: www.bermudagolf.bm

HOLE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

YDS 152 145 142 178 183 110 133 149 126

PAR 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3

HOLE 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

YDS 135 113 128 126 211 141 174 150 188

PAR 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3

OUT

1,318

1,366

FAIRMONT SOUTHAMPTON GOLF CLUB • 238-8000

OUT

1,318

TOTAL 2,684

Bermuda’s only 18 hole par 3 course was designed by Theodore G. Robinson and was rated four-star by Golf Digest’s best places to play. The average playing time is under three hours, with every iron in the bag being called into play over a hilly, panoramic ocean-view layout.

bermuda.com guide 47

water sports

Photo courtesy of Snorkel Park

Families enjoy hours of fun on and in the water at Snorkel Park, Dockyard.

Make a splash By James Whittaker | Crystal clear waters, in shifting shades of blue and turquoise, are perhaps Bermuda’s biggest attraction. From a lazy day stretched on the bow of a rented Boston Whaler to an adrenaline filled kite surfing session on the famous south shore, the chances to enjoy the ocean are many and varied. The snorkelling off the beaches — particularly Church Bay in Southampton and Tobacco Bay in St George’s — is world class. And many water sports firms run snorkel cruises further offshore. Renting a kayak is one of the best ways to explore our picturesque coastline. Blue Hole Watersports (tel: 293-2915) rents easy-to-use ocean kayaks from its headquarters at Grotto Bay Hotel, at the east end of the island. The location offers paddlers the chance to explore the mangroves in Castle Harbour. You can also rent windsurfers, small sailing boats and Boston Whalers. 48 bermuda.com guide

It’s unsafe to go beyond inshore waters.

water sports

Somerset Bridge Watersports (tel: 234-0914) and Fantasea Watersports (tel: 236-1300) offer similar services in the west. Also out west at Dockyard, Snorkel Park (tel: 234-6989) rents kayaks and peddle boats — you can even take a Jet Ski safari. A small beach with full amenities makes it an ideal spot to take the kids. For wakeboarding or waterskiing, the Bermuda Waterski Centre (tel: 2343354), at Robinson’s Marina, is run-by former Pan-American trick ski champion Kent Richardson. Even if you don’t manage to stand up straight away, you’ll have fun trying. Jet skiing is an easier option — just turn the key and go. Operators in Dockyard, Hamilton and St George’s run guided tours with qualified guides. You could also try the Fairmont Southampton resort (238-8000). Sailing is a national sport and the shifting winds make it a tricky place for beginners. But if you simply want to relax and let the experts do the work, countless charter boats run everything from day trips to sunset cruises. Check out our listing of operators on www. bermuda.com. n

Photo by Tony McWilliam

Whether you’re a daredevil windsurfer or a shoreline snorkeller, there is no shortage of fun, water-based activities here.

bermuda.com guide 49

diving

Photos by Alan Marquardt

Divers encounter a huge anchor from the wreck of the Caraquet, an English mail packet ship that sank on June 25, 1923 off our northern reef.

Plunge into the past By James Whittaker | Ever since The Sea Venture crashed on the reef 400 years ago, disgorging Bermuda’s first settlers, our history has been intertwined with shipwrecks. If we were to pull an imaginary plug and drain the water around this volcanic seamount we would be able to look out across a desolate hillside littered with the shells of more than 500 vessels. The skeletons of Civil War blockade-runners, the coral crusted cannons of Spanish galleons — even the shattered remnants of a B29 bomber airplane, lie beneath our clear waters. Each one has a story. And it is the stories behind these twisted remains that draw thousands of scuba divers to the ‘shipwreck capital of the Atlantic’ each year. “There are very few places in the world where you can dive the whole spectrum of wrecks from the 16th century right through to today,” says Captain Graham Maddocks, of Triangle Diving. Among the most popular is the Cristobel Colon – a Spanish luxury liner 50 bermuda.com guide

diving

We have 300 sq miles of reefs. that sank off the north shore in 1936. Only when the ship hit the reef did the authorities discover that the crew was harbouring revolutionaries from the Puerto Rican Civil War. They were deported to Spain to face the firing squad. Furnishings from the Cristobel Colon can still be found in old Bermudian homes today: It was stripped bare by locals before British and American bombers sank its empty shell by using it as target practice during the war. Pillaging ships wrecked on the reef was nothing new in the 1930s. In fact it had been a virtual industry in Bermuda hundreds of years earlier. Some of the earliest shipwrecks were victims of bandits who lulled trusting skippers onto the reefs with flashing lanterns and then raided their stricken boats. There were still plenty of rewards to be found on our wrecks when the pioneers of scuba diving began exploring the reef in the 1950s. Bermuda’s most prolific wreck hunter, Teddy Tucker, discovered more than 100 shipwrecks. His most famous find

was Spanish treasure ship the San Pedro, wrecked off Bermuda in 1596. After weeks of sifting through the sand Mr. Tucker unveiled a bounty of riches including an emerald studded gold crucifix, later stolen from the Bermuda Aquarium in a famous heist. The romantic fairytale of finding buried treasure at the bottom of the sea remains a strong lure. Experts believe there are many hundreds more wrecks to be discovered at depths that are only just beginning to be explored. Even in the shallow reef there is always the possibility of untold riches hidden in the sand. Every hurricane sees the old wreck hunters combing their favourite spots on the ocean floor in the hope that the storm has churned up another piece of history. The real treasure, though, lies in the experience. “The romance of exploring a wreck, the calling of the sea that we all have inside of us – that’s the beauty of it,” says Mr. Maddocks. n See shipwrecks map on pages 52 & 53.

The intact bow of the Taunton, wrecked in 1920 off our northern reef, makes for an interesting photo for this diver.

bermuda.com guide 51

shipwrecks

Gibb’s Hill Lighthouse was only the 37

34 39

Atlantic Ocean

43 44 1

Royal Naval Dockyard

Somerset Long Bay Mangrove

t in Po lty ish an rk mira p Spanish S Pa Ad se u Point Hoark P

Bay ’

GREAT SOUND

Hawkins Island

ac Be

25. Beaumaris Castle 26. Collector 27. Iristo 28. Elda 29. Taunton 30. Eagle 31. Manilla Wreck 32. Cristobal Colon 33. Curlew

y Ba

Both the old and more recent wrecks, scattered throughout the 200-squaremile reef system that surrounds the island, are protected by law against any unauthorized interference. The more popular dive sites are easily accessed from the island by boat, with an average depth of between 30 17. Katherine 18. Pelinaion 19. Zovetto or Rita Zovetto 20. Sea Venture 21. Wychwood 22. Colonel William G. Ball 23. Richard P. Buck 24. Avenger

ng ay eB

52 bermuda.com guide

Elb

10. Minnie Breslauer 11. Pollockshields 12. Apollo 13. Kate 14. Grotto Bay Barges 15. Warwick 16. H.M.S. Cerberus

Drydock Ramona H.M.S. Vixen Minerva Hunters Galley Mari Celeste Virginia Merchant 8. King 9. Hermes

n Lo

There are some four hundred wrecks to be found off Bermuda. The earliest date from the first quarter of the 16th century when the island became a landmark for Spanish ships sailing back to Spain from the New World.

Elbow Beach Coral Beach 7 6 Surfside Beach 9 8 Marley Beach oe

Bermuda’s shipwrecks

DEVONSHIR PARISH

Hungry Bay ap Gr

WARWICK PARISH sh rse Hoy Ba

Chu

ay rch B

i rw Wa y Ba

PAGET PARISH

Rockaway LITTLE SOUND

SOUTHAMPTON PARISH

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

CITY OF HAMILTON HAMILTON HARBOUR

Belmont

ey Whitnay B hale W t s We Bay

PEMBROKE PARISH

SANDYS PARISH

second cast iron lighthouse ever built. 31

Stories of the sea

Five must-visit Bermuda wrecks: 26

25 24 22 Toba cco B Achilles’ Bay ay Fort St. Catherine ST GEORGE’S 23 PARISH Martello Tower Coney Island Airport

Bailey's Bay

Crystal Caves

Castle Island Tucker's Town

Smiths Parish 16 Sm hn Jo ay B

and 50 feet. Listed here are some of the better known wrecks, highlighted in the map above. Note that some wrecks are known by two, three or even four different names. For further information, visit the scuba diving pages on our website: www.bermuda.com. 34. Madiana 35. Alert 36. San Pedro 37. Caraquet 38. Mark Antonio 39. Montana 40. Lartington 41. Constellation 42. Santa Ana 43. L’Herminie

n The Pelinaion (18) – This Greek steamer became a victim of WWII. The British had blacked out St. David’s lighthouse to stop the Germans from spying on Bermuda. But the ship crashed on the reef, where it still lies scattered. n The Cristobel Colon (32) — This Spanish luxury liner is the biggest of Bermuda’s wrecks at 499ft long. Its remains are spread across the North Shore reef. n The Hermes (9) – Extremely popular among divers as it is one of the few wrecks in Bermuda that remains fully intact. It lies in 80 foot of water off the South Shore. n The Constellation (41) – Jaws author Peter Benchley based his follow-up novel ‘The Deep’ around this wreck, which sank on the South Shore carrying a cargo of morphine and whisky to Venezuela during WWII.

's ith

Fort Popple rwate r Bea ch Turt 19 le Ba y

Clea

CASTLE HARBOUR Nonsuch Island

Shell y HARRINGTON B Beaacy SOUND h Flatts Bridge Devil's Hole

SMITH’S PARISH

Gate s’ Ba y Town of St. Georges Gates 21 Fort Smith’s 20 Island Fort Cunningham

HAMILTON PARISH

HIRE H

shipwrecks

44. Frenchman 45. Lord Amherst 46. Darlington 47. Mussel 48. San Antonio 49. Blanch King 50. Caesar 51. Airplane 52. North Carolina 53. Triton Ferry

n The H.M.S. Vixen (3) – If you don’t want to take on the challenge of scuba diving, the Vixen lies half submerged in shallow waters off Daniel’s Head, Somerset, and is easily accessible by snorkellers.

Local dive operators Blue Water Divers, Robinson’s Marina, Somerset, Tel: 234-1034 & Elbow Beach Hotel 232-2909 www.divebermuda.com Fantasea Bermuda, Albuoy’s Point, Hamilton, Tel: 236-1300 info@fantasea.bm Triangle Diving, Grotto Bay, near the airport, Tel: 293-7319 www.trianglediving.com

Don’t want to get wet? Visit the Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute in Hamilton, the National Museum of Bermuda in Dockyard and the replica of the Deliverance in St. George’s.

bermuda.com guide 53

fishing

Photo courtesy of the Bermuda Department of Tourism

In the hot seat: few activities on the water compare to the thrill of hauling in a big fish, and opportunities abound here.

Let’s go fishing! By James Whittaker | For novice fishermen looking for an exciting family day out or experienced anglers hoping to hook a monster marlin, the deep ocean surrounding Bermuda is a fertile hunting ground. More than 20 charter firms offer day-trippers the chance to try their luck. Two volcanic sea-mounts, Challenger and Argus Banks, several miles offshore, are the focus of attention for the small fleets of boats that idle out of pretty harbours every morning. Here, the powerful Atlantic currents push baitfish over steepling banks, attracting swarms of big-game fish. Schools of tuna and wahoo offer rich pickings for anglers of all abilities. Other fish often caught on deep sea trips include amberjack, mahi mahi, bonito, little tunny and rainbow runner. Local fishermen know their turf and will guide you to the best spots. Some will let you keep your catch, but they are not obliged to do so. Boats are equipped with rods, tackle, bait, life-saving gear and toilets. Typically you’ll supply your own refreshments. Charter prices for deep-sea outings, usually around $800 for a 54 bermuda.com guide

Many record gamefish are caught here. half-day or $1,000-$1,200 for the day (roughly $200 per person) cover gear, skipper and crew and if fish are biting, a couple of fresh tuna or wahoo steaks. Along with amateurs fishing for fun, our waters also attract big-time anglers hunting the biggest, baddest fish in the ocean – the wild blue marlin. Fierce, acrobatic and sometimes weighing in excess of 1,000lbs, marlin are the toughest fish to land — the Holy Grail for hardcore sports fishermen. Almost all marlin are released. For every fisherman that leaves with his Kodak moment there are more who travel home with nothing but memories and tall stories of the ones that got away. Either way — most leave firmly hooked on Bermuda. n For more on fishing charters visit: www.bermuda.com

fishing

Baxter’s Reef Fishing ‘Life on the ocean wave’ is guaranteed to be great fun with Capt. Baxter aboard his 32–foot Cape Islander ‘Ellen B’. Apply the catch and release method or take your catch home for supper! ‘Ellen B’ is well equipped to accommodate the whole family, complete with ample awning on hot days and complimentary sodas. The captain, with more than 20 years experience on the spectacular Barrier Reef, will display his expertise and show even the ‘amateurs’ how to catch a fish! You may enjoy a half-day or a full-day fishing. Parties of up to ten can be arranged. Capt. Baxter is always happy to oblige smaller parties by joining up with other small groups. Departing daily. Mangrove Bay public dock in Somerset. Tel: 234-2963 or 334-9722. www.bermudareeffishing.com

bermuda.com guide 55

marine life

Photo by Chris Burville

Hanging out together on the seabed: a lobster and a trumpet fish.

Know your fish By James Whittaker | You don’t need to go miles offshore chasing humpback whales or strap on SCUBA diving gear to get close to our marine life. Any snorkeller can drift effortlessly among shoals of brightly coloured parrotfish in the pristine waters that lap Bermuda’s beaches. And a cast of characters straight out of Finding Nemo awaits off the rocks and reefs. Sergeant majors — so called because of the black stripes stamped across their silvery yellow flanks — are the busybodies of the reef, always on the move, darting in and out of the sunlight that strobes through the ocean surface. Photo by ALAN marquardt

Blue angelfish

56 bermuda.com guide

Puffer fish, with their intricately patterned bodies and bulging cheeks that look as if they

marine life

Fish pots were outlawed in 1990.

Sergeant major

are stuffed with jawbreakers, are perhaps our most recognizable residents. Butterfly fish swarm aimlessly among shoals of angel fish and blue chromus, in a mish mash of colours, like confetti falling at a wedding. Look carefully enough and you might see a shifty looking blenny poke its head from behind a rock. Rarely more than two inches long, they have beady eyes that look as if they belong to a sock puppet. It is beneath these rocks that you may find an octopus squirming in its coral garden or a lobster scurrying for cover. The safety of the shoreline is sought by an even wider variety of species, as nurseries for their young. At certain spots you might find baby barracuda, blade-like bodies glinting in the sun; sea turtles bobbing for air or armies of squid hovering like spacecraft in formation. n Photos by Alan Marquardt & Chris Burville

Puddingwife

Stoplight parrotfish

Foureye butterfly fish

Spanish hogfish

Grunt

Grey snapper

bermuda.com guide 57

nature

Photo by Chris Burville

The Cahow or Bermuda Petrel only comes ashore to breed, entering its nesting burrow under cover of darkness. Its scientific name Ptrerodroma cahow is derived from the Greek pteron (wing) and dromos (running) – an apt name for a fabulous ‘winged runner’ over the ocean waves.

Cahow - the ultimate survivor By Andrew Dobson | It’s a story to stir the soul of any nature lover. How a majestic seabird, found nowhere else in the world, was re-discovered here 300 years after being written off as extinct. Move over, Dodo, and let the more compelling story of the Cahow take flight. Flashback to 1609: The Sea Venture hit a coral reef and our first settlers crash landed, bedraggled and hungry. They might have starved to death had it not been for the abundance of the Cahow, whose eerie, nocturnal cries had prompted 16th century sailors to liken Bermuda to an ‘Isle of Devils’. By 1620 thousands of birds had been killed. They lost much of their breeding habitat to farming, not to mention invasive rats, cats and pigs. The bird was presumed extinct. Fast-forward to 1906 when a Cahow was found — though not identified. In 1935, a Cahow hit St. David’s Lighthouse and died, its downy feathers indicating a recently fledged bird. Could they still be breeding on Bermuda 58 bermuda.com guide

The Cahow is our national bird. after more than 300 years? Enter David Wingate, now our preeminent environmentalist. He joined Dr. Robert Cushman Murphy from the American Museum David Wingate of Natural History and Dr. Louis Mowbray of the Bermuda Aquarium to search for the Cahow. In 1951 they made an initial discovery of seven nesting pairs on an isolated islet and announced to the world the re-discovery of the Cahow. A further 11 pairs were found on another three islets. Dr. Wingate was determined to ensure the survival of the world’s rarest seabird and by the time he retired in 2000, there were 50 pairs. His Cahow recovery scheme is spearheaded today by Jeremy Madeiros, David’s successor as Government Conservation Officer. Artificial burrows that exclude larger tropicbirds and rats have been key to survival. Devices attached to the Cahow’s legs have tracked their long-distance flights. The number

Common critters

what’s on nature

Photo by Andrew Dobson

A young Cahow a couple of days from fledging, photographed on Nonsuch Island.

of breeding pairs is now close to 100 – a fantastic success story. It is possible to see the Cahow from the recently opened Cooper’s Point nature reserve in St. David’s. Scanning south over the open ocean with binoculars at twilight might reward you with a sighting – especially in spring and in November when the birds return home. n A remarkable film about the Cahow, Rare Bird, is available at the aquarium, The Bookmart, A.S. Cooper and Brown & Co. Also, see www.rarebirdfilm.com

Photos by Tony McWilliam

The nocturnal Cahow is hard to spot but other creatures you’re more likely to see here include the Cardinal (left), lizard, tree frog and Kisakadee.

bermuda.com guide 59

real estate

Own a bit of ‘The Rock’ Many visitors, seduced by our sub-tropical climate, historic charm and pink sand beaches, return to Bermuda year after year. Americans in particular often seek to make the relationship a little more permanent, through timeshares or fractional ownership. As a non-Bermudian you are not permitted to buy property outright unless you have more than $5million to spend, so it’s a more affordable way to claim a small piece of ‘The Rock’. And

The St. George’s Club

it enables you to share your love of the island with friends and family for generations to come. Prices vary of course but you might get into the market at the $150,000 to $400,000 range. Check with a local realtor through our website, bermuda.com, for more information. Names that will come up include The Reefs Club, Tucker’s Point Club, Newstead Belmont Hill Golf Resort and Spa — and The St. George’s Club.

Facilities for the more energetic include Are you dreaming three tennis courts, of a Bermuda family one lit for night play, holiday? Well, The St. and a fitness center. George’s Club can The surrounding Golf make that dream an Course is currently Photo by james whittaker affordable reality. closed but is to be The charming St. George’s Club, which Overlooking the redesigned by Nick offers timeshare opportunities. historic Town of St. Faldo. George and the quaint harbor, its clusters Golf enthusiasts can also enjoy priviof one-bedroom and two bedroom cotleges at the challenging Riddell’s Bay Golf tages offer all the comforts of home. Fully course in Southampton. equipped kitchens make home cooking posThe bus stop is within close walking sible – and an onsite grocery means shopdistance and the fast ferry to Dockyard ping is close to hand. Don’t feel like cookand Hamilton is also nearby. You can also ing? Griffin’s Bistro in the main clubhouse explore at your own pace by renting a is known for its excellent international scooter from the onsite cycle livery. cuisine, or dine at Blackbeard’s Hideout the The Club is an RCI Gold Crown Resort beachside restaurant and bar. Three swimwhich allows members exchange options at ming pools, one heated and one with a pool any of RCI’s nearly 4,000 worldwide resort bar are situated in beautifully manicured hotels. New members are also enrolled in and spacious grounds. If you prefer the The Club’s private travel and cruise program. beach, the complimentary shuttle can take To learn more, call 297-1222 or visit you to The Club’s secluded Achilles Bay. www.stgeorgesclub.com n

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practicalities What you need to know Your concierge might know an awful lot, but you can’t take him to the beach. Here’s a handy list of things you ought to know. Information provided here is subject to change. For the latest, visit our website: www.bermuda.com.

Our ferries are clean, speedy and efficient.

n Airlines

n Banks

Air Canada Reservations: Tel: 1-888-247-2262. Flight Info: Tel: 293-1777. American Airlines Tel: 1-800-433-7300. AirTran 1-800-AIR-TRAN (247-8726) or 678-254-7999. British Airways Reservations: Tel: 1-800-247-9297. Airport customer service: Tel: 293-1944. Continental Airlines Reservations: Tel: 1-800-231-0856. Flight Info: Tel: 293-3092. Delta Airlines Reservations: Tel: 1-800-221-1212. Flight Info: Tel: 293-1024. JETBLUE Tel: 1-800-JETBLUE (538-2583). U.S. Airways Reservations: Tel: 1-800-622-1015. Flight Info: Tel: 293-3073. WestJet | Tel: 1-888-WESTJET (937-8538).

Normally open from 9am to 4pm, Mon-Fri. There are many ATMs across the island.

n Airport L.F. Wade International Airport (tel: 2932470) is located in St. George’s at the east end of the island. Allow 30 minutes from the city of Hamilton by taxi. Check-in two hours before departure.

62 bermuda.com guide

Photo by Christina White

n Buses All bus routes serving Hamilton arrive and leave the Bus Terminal on Washington Street. (Refer to number 48 on the Hamilton map on page 28. See page 65 for schedule). Cash fares require exact change. Dollar bills are not accepted. Adult cash fare is $3 up to 3 zones, $4.50 for longer journeys. Tokens are $2.50 for 3 zone trips and $4 for longer trips. Transportation passes are available: one-day pass $12, two days $20, three days $28, four days $35, seven days $45 or one month, $55. For children (aged 5-16) cash fare is $2 and transportation passes range from $6 per day up to $22.50 for seven days. Children under five ride free. Tokens, tickets and passes can be used on buses or ferries and can be bought at ferry terminals, the central bus terminal, hotels, post offices and Visitor Information Centres. (The fares listed here, correct at press time, are subject to change). Tel: 292-3851 • info@ptb.bm

n Business Hours Stores normally open from 9am to 5pm

Shark oil barometers forecast weather.

what’s on practicalities

Monday to Saturday. Many grocery stores open 1-5pm on Sunday, most other stores are closed on Sundays.

U.S. dollar; both are legal tender. Traveller’s cheques and credit cards are accepted at most shops, restaurants and hotels.

n Cars

n Dress Code

No car rentals are available in Bermuda but you can rent scooters and pedal bikes.

The dress code in Bermuda is conservative. Bathing suits and bare chests are not acceptable, except (for men) at beaches and pools. Casual wear is acceptable in restaurants at lunchtime. Some upscale restaurants require men to wear a jacket in the evening. Check the dress requirements when making reservations.

n Consulate The U.S. Consulate is located on Crown Hill, 16 Middle Road, Devonshire, tel: 295-1342. Open Mon to Fri 8am - 4:30pm. Consular services are provided on an appointment basis only, except for adult passport renewals and additional visa pages, which may be dropped off. For details, visit the Consulate’s website: http://hamilton.usconsulate. gov. For after-hours life or death emergencies for American citizens only, contact the duty officer at (441) 335-3828. Honorary Consuls for other countries are also represented. See the telephone directory for listings.

n Communications Bermuda’s well-developed telecommunications infrastructure provides modern telephone, fax, Internet, cellular and cellularroaming services.

n Country Codes U.S. & Canada —  dial 1 plus area code plus no.  U.K. —  dial 011 plus 44 plus area code plus no. Caribbean —  dial 1 plus area code plus seven digits.

n Currency & Credit Cards The Bermuda dollar is equal in value to the

n Emergency Call 911 and specify whether you need police, the fire service or an ambulance.

n Etiquette It is customary to greet islanders with a ‘good morning’, ‘good afternoon’ or ‘good evening’ — Bermuda prides herself on civility.

n Ferries The best way to get around; ferries are usually quicker than the buses and the views are better. All ferries depart from the terminal on Front Street, Hamilton. Regular ferries cross Hamilton Harbour and faster catamarans visit Somerset, Dockyard and St. George’s. You can buy tickets at locations including post offices and hotels. Scooters are allowed on some routes.

n Health No inoculations are required for Bermuda. There are no poisonous insects or mammals but visitors should be wary of the

bermuda.com guide 63

practicalities

Bermudians use lemon grass steeped

Portuguese man-of-war jellyfish that carries a painful sting. Guard against sunstroke and sunburn with hats, sunblock and plenty of water. Our climate is kind to hay fever sufferers as pollens are blown out to sea.

n Hospital King Edward VII Memorial Hospital (tel. 2362345) is a large, first-rate facility owned and operated by the Bermuda Government and located on Point Finger Road in Paget Parish. An associate of the American Hospital Association. Airlifts can be arranged to the U.S. or Canada.

n Internet Most hotels and many guest houses provide Internet access. Also, there are a handful of locations where you can go online in the city of Hamilton including the Bermuda Library on Queen Street, where access is free. Public Internet access is also available in St. George’s and Dockyard.

n Religion Churches are ubiquitous here. Anglican, Catholic, African Methodist Episcopal and Seventh Day Adventist are among the major faiths. See the church listings in Friday’s Bermuda Sun newspaper.

n Scooters You can rent scooters by the day or week, if you are 18 or older. Helmets, provided by the rental companies, are mandatory (see pages 66 & 67 for safety tips). Some companies offer free delivery to your hotel.

n Mail

n Smoking

The General Post Office is located at 56 Church Street Hamilton (tel: 297-7893), with 12 sub-offices islandwide. Airmail leaves and arrives daily. Rates for airmail postcards to North America are 70¢; Europe 80¢; Africa, Asia, Australia and New Zealand 90¢.

Smoking is banned from all enclosed public spaces including restaurants, bars, shops, theatres or any enclosed workspaces.

n Nightlife You’ll find live music venues and nightclubs mainly in Hamilton where there’s a good choice of laid back pubs and upscale bars. Some hotels also offer live music and dancing. Most restaurants are closed well before midnight — but ask a local and they’ll point you to a take-out joint if you need a fried food fix in the early hours. Looking for strip clubs or casinos? Not here. This is a place where going bare-chested in town can get you into trouble with the law. And we’re talking about men, in broad daylight. Decorum’s a watchword.

n Public Holidays 2011 Good Friday | Friday, April 22 Bermuda Day | Tuesday, May 24

64 bermuda.com guide

n Taxis Cabs are safe and comfortable. Rates are controlled by law at $6.40 for the first mile and $2.25 for each additional mile for 1-4 passengers. Rates increase after midnight, Sundays and public holidays with a 25% surcharge for 1-4 passengers and a 50% surcharge for 5-6 passengers. Taxis may also be hired by the hour or day.

n TV & Radio Three main local channels screen a nightly news bulletin — VSB (channel 11), ZBM (9) and ZFB (7). A government station, CITV, is on channel 2 and there’s a small handful of local radio stations. The quality of local programming varies considerably.

n Time Differences New York — one hour behind Bermuda Los Angeles — four hours behind

in boiling water and sugar for colds.

practicalities

67ºF, water 68ºF; July 80ºF, water 81ºF; October 75ºF, water 76ºF. In an average year we see rain on 171 days and sunshine on 200 days.

London — four hours ahead  Toronto — one hour behind Daylight Savings Time comes into effect from the second Sunday in March through to the first Sunday in November.

n Wildlife

n Tipping In most cases, a service charge or gratuity has been added to the bill. Where the gratuity has not been added, 15% is about right.

n Water Tap water is safe to drink, unless you are instructed otherwise. Bermuda has no rivers, streams or reservoirs; all our water comes from rain. Bermuda roofs are painted with a limestone wash that purifies the water as it trickles down into underground tanks. Electric pumps send the water up to the tap.

n Weather Bermuda’s sub-tropical climate is generally mild and humid, but summer and winter temperatures vary considerably. The average annual temperature is 76ºF. Monthly averages: January 65ºF, water 66ºF; April

One of our most intriguing creatures is the common whistling frog. Their ‘gleep-gleep’ chorus is particularly vigorous after rainfall on warm evenings and you’ll be amazed that a frog little bigger than your thumbnail can be so audible. Easier to spot on wet evenings are enormous cane toads, introduced to control cockroaches. Birds are plentiful; about 375 species have been recorded in Bermuda and 20 are resident. There are hundreds of feral cats and feral chickens – but no feral dogs. We have a few rats, of course, but no snakes. Spiders are abundant but generally harmless. The occasional poisonous spider arrives on imported lumber but they rarely bother people. Mosquitoes aren’t a problem and there are few bugs to worry about. Try to avoid the Portuguese man-o-war, a purple jellyfish that sports long tentacles and causes a painful sting. Sharks are rare in Bermuda waters.

Bus Schedule

Route Fare Leaving Hamilton’s Central Number Zone Bus Terminal (time past the hour)

Airport Aquarium Belmont Hotel Botanical Gardens Caves (Crystal and Leamington) Dockyard Elbow Beach Gibbs Hill Lighthouse Grotto Bay Hotel Horseshoe Bay Beach Hospital Mangrove Bay (Somerset) National Museum of Bermuda Bermuda Perfumery John Smith’s Bay Beach Fairmont Southampton Resort Town of St. George

1, 3, 10, 11 10 11 8 1, 2, 7 1, 3 7, 8 2, 7 7 1, 3, 10, 11 7 1, 2, 7 7, 8 7, 8 1, 3, 10, 11 1 7, 8 1, 3, 10, 11

14 00 3 00 3 00 3 00 14 14 00 3 00 3 00 14 00 3 00 3 00 14 00 14 00 14 00 3 3 00 14 00

15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 15 30 15 30

45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45

bermuda.com guide 65

practicalities

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Safety first: At Wheels Cycles, in the city of Hamilton, you’ll be shown how to ride your rental bike before you leave their yard.

How to stay safe on a rental bike By SIMON JONES | One of the best ways to see Bermuda is on two

wheels. Rental bikes give you easy access to all the best sights and with a warm breeze on your face and the freedom of the open road ahead, you’ll feel ten years younger! Riding a moped or scooter is easy once you’ve got the hang of it. Follow our tips to stay safe: • Hire from a reputable firm and check the bike is in good condition; • Helmets are mandatory — but useless unless they fit well and are secured properly; • We drive on the left — just like the Brits; • Drive defensively and wear bright clothes to aid your visibility to others; • Wear sneakers or closed-toe shoes — topple off your bike in flip-flops and you could easily lose a digit; • The speed limit is 35kph; stick to it and don’t feel obliged to keep up with other road users; • Leave plenty of space between yourself and other vehicles and don’t get 66 bermuda.com guide

We have no mountains, just gentle hills. too close to the curb; • Never turn around to look behind you while riding; • Never stop on a bend or a hill’s brow; • Drive slower when it’s wet; • When riding in a group, put the slowest rider at the front; • Traffic at roundabouts goes clockwise, so as you approach one, slow down and give way to vehicles coming from the right; • NEVER drink and ride; • On weekdays, avoid rush hour city traffic (7.30-9.30am and 4-6pm). If things go wrong, you might find yourself getting patched up by medics. Most typical, says Dr. Roslyn BascombeAdams, Deputy Chief of Emergency at King Edward VII Memorial Hospital, are “elbow and knee abrasions” resulting from spills. She encourages “extreme caution” on the roads: “Some accidents are

what’s on practicalities

caused because the rider is not used to driving on the left,” she says. “Many say they have been intimidated by cars or trucks and have simply got too close to the curb and come off their bike.” Chris Brito, rentals manager at Wheels, one of the island’s premier bike rental firms, said: “Customers always get an instructor session with us in the yard. The instructor shows the rider how to operate the bike and makes sure they are comfortable riding it. The helmet is one of the most important pieces of equipment – it has to be a snug fit and strapped on properly at all times.” So, the message is clear: be confident you’re ready to hit the road, don’t take risks — but do take your time. And don’t forget to have fun. Wheels Cycles Moped & Scooter Rentals is at 117 Front Street,

Hamilton, tel: 292-2245 n

Wheels Cycles (Astwood) Ltd. 117 Front St., Hamilton, Bermuda Tel: 441-292-2245 www.wheelscycles.com Email: information@wheels.bm

Scooter Rentals by the Day, Week or Month Discover the beauty of Bermuda at your own speed with our easy to ride, Peugeot double seater scooters. Single seaters also available. * Open 7 Days a week * No deposit required * All major credit cards welcomed * No license required * Third party insurance included * Complete instructions & safety tips

Welcome All Visitors

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feature

Photo courtesy of the Bermuda Sun

Movie star Michael Douglas, seen here testing his skills on one of our silky greens, has deep family ties to the island and up until quite recently considered Bermuda his primary home.

Famous Americans in Bermuda By Rosemary Jones | Along with many artists who found inspiration in Bermuda in the 1900s, writers, politicians, scientists, sports stars, socialites and Hollywood celebrities have also fallen for the island’s charms over the years. Literary stars such as humourist Samuel Clemens (Mark Twain) and dramatist Eugene O’Neill were intrigued by Bermuda’s balmy climate, quaint beauty and privacy, making Bermuda a favourite retreat. O’Neill wrote part of ‘Strange Interlude’ here and combined work with vigorous swimming and canoeing. His daughter Oona — who married Charlie Chaplin — was born in Bermuda. Fellow writers who became Bermuda devotees included E. B. White, Stephen Leacock and Langston Hughes. 68 bermuda.com guide

feature

Ross Perot has a home in Tucker’s Town.

One turn-of-the-century Bermudaphile between the Big Apple and his home in was Woodrow Wilson, a frequent visitor Tucker’s Town, St. George’s Parish. Acadbefore he became the 28th U.S. president emy Award-winning actor and producer, in 1912. He and Twain signed a petition Michael Douglas, has deep family roots against allowing cars here. in both Bermuda and the U.S. His mother, Many others visitors, among Diana Dill, comes from one them, actor Harpo Marx, comof Bermuda’s oldest families, poser Irving Berlin, baseball while his father, Kirk Douglas, legend Babe Ruth and child is the famous American actor. star Shirley Temple, came to Michael and his Oscar-winning play golf or enjoy a subtropical Welsh wife, Catherine Zetaescape from America’s chilly Jones, came to live in Warwick winters. Parish with their two children Jesse Jackson In the 1950s, America’s first in 2001 and until 2009, when astronauts were frequently seen they moved their base to New on the island, where NASA ran York, considered Bermuda their a sophisticated orbital tracking primary home. station on Cooper’s Island from “Our work takes us around 1961 to 2001. Astronauts Gus the world,” Catherine ZetaGrissom and Alan Shepard rode Jones once said, “but whenever mopeds and paid visits to the we return to Bermuda, we are Michael Bloomberg station. As tourism increased overwhelmed by its beauty and in the 1970s and ’80s, famous the friendliness of its people. names among the visiting “And for Michael, whose throngs included politicians family has been on the island for Richard Nixon and Jesse Jackclose to 400 years, [there’s] a son, and ‘Roots’ author Alex sense of solace and security.” n Haley, among many others. In the 1990s, when the ChiThis is an edited version of a cago Bulls ruled basketball, story that appears in ‘Four Alan Shepard Michael Jordan and Scottie Centuries of Friendship’ a Pippen enjoyed golfing sojourns here. National Museum of Bermuda Some U.S. celebrities enjoy Bermuda (Bermuda Maritime Museum Press) so much, they buy homes here. New York book available at stores islandwide and City mayor Michael Bloomberg travels at www.bmm.bm

Irving Berlin

Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta-Jones

Langston Hughes

Babe Ruth

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business brief

Photo by Kageaki Smith

The HQ of HSBC Bank of Bermuda, near Hamilton’s ferry terminal, is a hub of business activity.

Our time-saving top tips It’s your first business trip to Bermuda. You’ve done the legal research, but as you gaze at the ocean from the comfort of your hotel room, you wonder where to start. Your local contact is knowledgeable about your business, but you hesitate to ask where you can find the best cup of coffee or those knee socks your dear uncle asked you to pick up. Here’s the inside dope, a mix of the factual and the utterly opinionated — in the city of Hamilton, unless otherwise indicated. n The wired island: Your hotel will get you online wirelessly, fast. If you’re in Hamilton, device-less but desperate, Internet cafés abound. Your BlackBerry, cellphone and 4G iPhone will all work here; peruse the ‘Locals’ section of Bermuda.com for service providers (all much the same). n My BlackBerry broke! Consider spending the day at the beach or, borrow a pal’s phone and see if Cellular One (700-7600) or Digicel (5005000) can help. 70 bermuda.com guide

Bermuda is a tax neutral jurisdiction. n Pizza pizza: Need to sit down for a bite, but pressed for time and don’t want a nine-course meal? La Trattoria (Washington Lane) serves memorable pizza. n Play by the rules: The Bermuda Monetary Authority (Victoria Street), might sound like it should be full of heavies, but it’s quite approachable and won’t (automatically) give ‘no’ for an answer. (Tel: 295-5278)

business brief

Capital G) will help. Take your passport and a recent utility bill. n Taking stock? If you need a stock price, the Bermuda Stock Exchange (Washington Mall) has a handy Bloomberg screen. n Lost? The Tourism Ministry (Church Street) has free maps and brochures, as does your hotel. Also try the Visitor Information Centre by the ferry terminal on Front Street.

n Bar none: In Bermuda, the CEOs of the big re/insurance companies hang out at Little Venice or other wine bars on Bermudiana Road. Deals also get struck at Fresco’s on Chancery Lane and Port O’ Call on Front Street. Ease your way into the conversation.

n Need knee socks? Get with the programme. Find shorts and long socks at the English Sports Shop or A.S. Cooper (both on Front Street).

n Taxi! If you can’t find a cab for love nor money, walk down to the Fairmont Hamilton Princess (Pitts Bay Road), where they’ll be lined up.

n Staying on: For a weekend with your spouse that you’ll never forget, Cambridge Beaches (Somerset). n

n Java time! Common Ground (Chancery Lane) is a great spot to pause, read the paper, grab a snack.

n Teed off? Bermuda has more golf courses per square mile than anywhere else on earth. Port Royal is where the pros play. You can, too. Book early (tel: 234-0974). n Need a new gizmo for the laptop? You’ll find knowledgeable, friendly service and a good range of products at The Complete Office (Reid Street), Computer City (Victoria Street) and the iStore (Reid Street). n Art for art’s sake? Take a break from the boardroom and amble over to the Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art in the Botanical Gardens — simply the best. n Bank on Bermuda: Want to open a bank account? Any of the four local banks (HSBC Bank of Bermuda, Butterfield, Bermuda Commercial or

iStock photo (edited)

Done for the day? Enjoy our pristine waters.

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shopping

Photo by Kageaki Smith

The Irish Linen Shop — which specializes in luxury goods from all over the world — is one of Front Street’s colourful, landmark stores.

Classy stores, no sales tax You’ve already proved you have good taste by choosing to visit Bermuda so it’s fitting that our stores exude quality. There are bargains to be had — you’ll find hefty price differentials with the U.S. on jewellery, watches, perfume, silverware, porcelain and crystal. And you’ll enjoy additional relief at the cash register — there’s no sales tax. Many stores are in the City of Hamilton, but the Clocktower Mall at Dockyard, on the western tip of the island, boasts quality gift stores and boutique shops. And the historic town of St. George’s — at the east end of Bermuda — also has a lively shopping scene. Goods made here or produced exclusively for local stores include pottery, jewellery, paintings and prints, pottery, rum, honey, condiments, cedar ware, Bermuda shorts, scarves, fragrances and pillows. Browse the following listings for details. n 72 bermuda.com guide

Astwood Dickinson Home of the Original Bermuda Collection 18 kt Gold Jewellery handmade in Bermuda. Since 1904, Astwood Dickinson has built an outstanding reputation as the finest jewellery store in Bermuda. As exclusive agents for the world’s most prestigious jewellery collections and watches, Astwood Dickinson is the perfect place to find a lasting reminder of your Bermuda experience. In our on-site workshop we handcraft the Original Bermuda Collection. Here you will find beautiful 18 kt gold designs of the island’s unique flora, fauna, landmarks and traditions that make an everlasting remembrance of your Bermuda vacation. The Original Bermuda Collection is also available online at www.astwooddickinson.com . Astwood Dickinson also offers exclusive jewellery collections from Tiffany & Co., Hearts on Fire, Links of London and Baccarat. Our watch brands include Patek

Bermuda The Original

For over 30 years the Original Bermuda Collection has featured timeless designs based on the island’s unique flora, fauna, landmarks and traditions. This collection of locally made treasures will serve as a lovely remembrance of your “Bermuda Experience”. These original, 18 karat gold pieces are hand crafted in Bermuda and sold exclusively by Astwood Dickinson.

47 Front Street and 83-85 Front Street, Hamilton, Bermuda, 441.292.5805 www.astwooddickinson.com

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Bermuda Triangle: One of the world’s

Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Cartier, OMEGA, TAG Heuer, Gucci, and Tissot. 83-85 Front Street, Hamilton. Tel: 292-5805 Walker Arcade Boutique, Front Street, Hamilton. Tel: 292-4247

Bermuda Blue & Bermuda Breeze Imagine standing on the shoreline of Bermuda’s pristine, pink sandy beaches. Breathe. Take in the sea air, the aroma of natural fruits & flowers all around us... Bermuda Blue and Bermuda Breeze fragrances embrace much that is uniquely Bermuda. Bermuda Blue delicately captures the natural citrus, jasmine and lotus in the air with a nuance of crisp sea spray. It dries down to a woody and vanilla base, managing to create a warm scent. Bermuda Breeze hints more of natural fruits, such as wild berries & mandarin, with a touch of jasmine — creating a lovely fruity floral. Packaging reflects the brilliant blues and greens of the local water, the immense blue sky, amid a pink sandy beach — captur-

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Exquisite fragrances for men and women, made at The Perfumery in St. George’s, make terrific gifts.

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ing the essence of this beautiful island paradise. Take home a piece of Bermuda. Take home Bermuda Blue and Bermuda Breeze. Available through select stores across the Island and on-line including: Gibbons Company, Reid St., Hamilton www.gibbons.bm Peniston Brown, St. George’s Perfume Shop, Dockyard Carole Holding, Front St., Hamilton Princess & Fairmont Southampton Brown & Co., Front St., Hamilton A.S. Cooper, Front St., Hamilton, branch and hotel stores www.ascooper.bm Distributed by P.D.L. Limited Tel: (441) 292-1710. infobb@pdl.bm

The Bermuda Perfumery The Bermuda Perfumery is located at historical Stewart Hall in the heart of St. George’s UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since 1928, The Bermuda Perfumery has been creating and manufacturing fine ladies and gentlemen’s fragrances under the brand Lili Bermuda. All the perfumes are made on the premises at Stewart Hall. The Perfumery welcomes visitors for a free tour of its operations and to sample its unique fragrances. During the summer of 2011, Lili Bermuda launches ‘Alegria’, a fragrance for women. Alegria was created to celebrate the rich cultural heritage of Bermuda. Alegria is a white chypre fragrance with a heart of frangipani, Bermuda Cedar, tuberose and magnolia. Alegria is modern, international and elegant. The Perfumery’s perfume collection also includes exclusive creations inspired by our beautiful Island. Modern women will love Coral, Pink, and Lily, and men will not want to leave Bermuda without a bottle of our famous fragrances 32° North and 64° West. The ‘Water Collection’, casual and unisex, will please the affluent and international Continued on page 76

most heavily-sailed shipping lanes.

what’s on jewellery

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Impeccable personal service has been a hallmark of Crisson Jewellers for many years.

Crisson Jewellers Crisson Jewellers embodies Bermuda’s finest and most cherished traditions. A family business since 1922, the Crisson name is synonymous with quality and value. The fabulous array of jewellery and watches reflect the style, sophistication and taste of our discerning customers. When you explore our exciting collections, we are sure you will agree that a visit to Crisson is the crowning moment of your Bermuda shopping experience. Along with the wonderfully eclectic collection of hand-selected pieces from all parts of the world, Crisson are Bermuda’s exclusive source for famous designers including David Yurman, Roberto Coin, Marco Bicego, Picchiotti, John Hardy, Kabana, Pandora, Bixby and Thomas Sabo. As for diamonds of distinction, Crisson has Bermuda’s largest collection of spectacular cuts from Cento, A. Jaffe and Canadia. When it comes to timepieces, Crisson

is definitely the place! Crisson are the officially authorised Rolex retailers in Bermuda. You will also find Tag Heuer, Ebel, Movado, Tudor, Philip Stein, Christian Dior, Rado, Elysee, TX and Raymond Weil. The collection is rounded out with ranges from Seiko, Swiss Army, Citizen, Casio, Esq and Guess! Crisson has two stores on Front Street in Hamilton and another on Queen Street. There are stores in St. George’s and in the Clocktower Mall at Dockyard. If you are staying in one of Bermuda’s major hotels, you’ll find a Crisson store there as well. Each of these boutique-style stores features pieces selected from our main collections in Hamilton. The shopping experience is relaxed and intimate, and the quality, value and prices are the same whichever store you choose to visit. Crisson Jewellers, 16 Queen Street, 55 & 71 Front Street, Hamilton; Water Street, St. George’s; Clocktower Mall, Dockyard, and all major hotels. Tel: 295-2351 • www.crisson.com

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Locally made products are ‘Bermudiana.’

Continued from page 74

traveller. The Perfumery is passionate about the art of perfume making and continues to innovate by using both traditional and modern techniques to produce exceptional perfumes. You are welcome to visit for a free tour of their operations and to sample their exclusive and rare perfumes. The Bermuda Perfumery, Stewart Hall, 5 Queen Street, St. George’s GE 05 Tel: 293-0627. Fax: 293-8810 1-800-527-8213 (toll free in US/Canada) info@bermuda-perfumery.com www.lilibermuda.com. Open Monday to Saturday 9:00am to 5:00pm

Bermuda Post Office Every year the Bermuda Philatelic Bureau compiles a collection of commemoratives and arranges them into an attractive presentation package. This collection continues the Bermuda Post Office’s efforts to portray all facets of Bermuda’s heritage, culture and history. The Bermuda Philatelic Bureau also services orders for current issues of Bermuda’s commemorative and definitive stamps and, for the convenience of collectors, provides a standing order account service with a minimum deposit of thirty dollars. In addition, they maintain a mailing list to provide details of new stamp releases to customers. 56 Church Street, Hamilton. Tel: 297-7807

Brown & Co. Brown & Co. with over 7,500 square feet of floor space, is the island’s most comprehensive department store. Located in the heart of Hamilton, their department stores are stocked with everything you need for yourself, friends, family and your home – featuring tourist-oriented gifts, greeting cards, books from local and internationally acclaimed authors, perfumes & fragrances from top designers, home décor from around the world, fashion jewellery and so

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Photo by Kageaki Smith

The Brown & Co. department store in Hamilton boasts one of the broadest ranges of goods on the island.

much more. Plus, nestled at the back of the store’s book department is a beautifully designed Café offering gourmet coffees, snacks, desserts, sandwiches and more. Make sure to visit them. Open MondaysSaturdays 8:30am -5:30pm and Sundays 1pm-5pm. Hallmark, Reid Street, Hamilton. Tel: 279-5442 The Bookmart, Reid Street, Hamilton. Tel: 279-5443 The Birdcage Café, Reid Street, Hamilton. Tel: 279-5462 Brown & Co, Front Street, Hamilton Tel: 279-5524

Crisson & Hind A world of African art – in Hamilton! When Dusty Hind says his Crisson & Hind Fine Art Gallery on Front Street, Hamilton, is the best place in the world to find the remarkable lifelike sculptures carved by the Master Shona Fine Artists of Zimbabwe, it’s no idle boast. As he explains: “There

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Our city covers only 180 acres.

simply isn’t another gallery like us in North America or Europe that specialises in this naturalistic work done in hard stone to such a high quality.” The gallery teems with spectacular carvings of handsome tribal chiefs, elaborately braided women and intricate groups of giraffes and antelopes created by some 30 artists from ten types of semi-precious hard stone only found in Zimbabwe, such as green, brown and yellow verdite, butter jade, red cobalt, leopardstone, and pale mauve lepoedolite. Many of the artists work exclusively for the gallery which buys direct from the artists, meaning their prices are half — or less than half — than those in the U.S. or Europe. The gallery ships all over the world at a reasonable cost. Each piece has already travelled more than 8,000 miles, packed in custom boxes made by the gallery’s experienced staff in Zimbabwe. The gallery will repack, fully insure and ship within days of purchase. Remember too that original

works of art are duty-free when imported into the US, Canada, and the U.K. The Crisson & Hind Gallery is on the 2nd floor of the Crisson Building, 71 Front Street, Hamilton. Tel: 295-1117. www.crissonandhind.com

The Irish Linen Shop    Step inside our historic cottage shop and be inspired! Luxury products from all over the world have been an Irish Linen Shop trademark for over 60 years. Our exquisite table linen collection from Le Jacquard Francais, Bodrum, Settings by Mona, and Karen Lee Ballard along with our amazing selection of table accessories from Deborah Rhodes and Dransfield and Ross will create an unforgettable table setting. Hand embroidered linen from Madeira and double damask from Ireland are still time-honoured traditions at The Irish Linen Shop.  Beautiful home fragrances from Antica Farmacista, Dayna Decker, Lafco and the oldest candle maker in France, Cire Trudon

File photo

At the Crisson & Hind Gallery on Front Street, Dusty Hind sells extraordinary Zimbabwean sculptures.

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…So much more than juSt LinenS!

Home Décor Fine GiFts LiFe’s Luxuries obviously you have great taste! 31 Front Street, Hamilton HM 11, Bermuda Hours: Monday-Saturday 10:00-6:00 P.M.

Tel: 441-295-4089

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U.S. dollars can be used in Bermuda.

will delight your senses. Don’t stop until you experience our bath and body products from Baudelaire and Rain of South Africa. You deserve it! Wait: The world of Michael Aram and Mariposa are the perfect solution when searching for a gift that will delight the recipient for years. Our home décor selections from Zentique, Oomph, and Roost will transform your home and your outlook.   You’ll love the children’s boutique at The Irish Linen Shop. It’s the place to find beautiful hand smocked dresses from Chantal and the classic styles of Papo d’Anjo from Portugal. Later, dream away on the finest Egyptian cotton bedding from Yves Delorme, Sferra, Matouk, Peter Reed and Dans Nos Maisons. It’s all here, waiting for you at The Irish Linen Shop, where fine living begins. 31 Front Street, Hamilton. Tel: 295-4089; Fax: 295-6552; e-mail: irishlinen@ibl.bm

The Island Shop The Island Shop features exclusive and original hand-painted ceramics by Barbara Finsness that capture the colourful archi-

tectural and natural features of Bermuda. There are fine linens that feature her original embroidered designs and a huge array of different gift items. The Island Shop is a ‘must visit’ during your stay for gift selections found nowhere else in the world! They will gift-wrap or mail your purchases if desired. Check out their online store at www.islandexports.com. Winner of ‘The Best in Bermuda’ in retail giftware by The Bermudian magazine in 2004 and 2005. Remember to visit Barbara‘s Art Gallery featuring her original and printed artwork in The Old Cellar Lane, Hamilton. Looking for rugby shirts then take a look in the Island Shop located on the mezzanine floor at the Fairmont Southampton. Queen Street, Hamilton, tel: 292-5292. The Old Cellar Lane, Hamilton, tel: 292-6307 Somers Wharf, St. George’s, tel: 297-11514 Fairmont Hotel, Southampton, tel: 238-5999

The Phoenix Stores

Photo by Kageaki Smith

The Queen Street branch of the Island Shop has a wide selection of tasteful gifts.

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With five full-service pharmacies, Phoenix Stores have been caring for customers and assisting with their health care needs for more than 100 years. Should you need answers to health related questions whilst you are on vacation, visit one of their Phoenix pharmacists. Emergency prescriptions are dispensed while you wait and each store carries an extensive range of over-the-counter medications. The stores also carry a wide range of health and beauty products, local and foreign newspapers and magazines, phone cards and postcards, etc. Visit one of their locations: Woodbourne Chemist, Clarendon Pharmacy, Collector’s Hill Apothecary, Phoenix Centre, Paget Pharmacy and Dockyard Pharmacy for all your essentials. All stores are open Monday to Saturday; three stores are also open on Sundays and holidays. Tel: 295-3838

Indulgent Colourful Unique

Decorat ive

The Island Shop

THE OLD CELLAR LANE 47 FRONT STREET, HAMILTON, BERMUDA TEL: 292-6307

QUEEN STREET 3 QUEEN STREET, HAMILTON, BERMUDA TEL: 292-5292

SOMERS WHARF TOWN OF ST. GEORGE’S BERMUDA TEL: 297-1514

THE FAIRMONT SOUTHAMPTON BERMUDA TEL: 238-5999

www.islandexports.com

shopping

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Onion Jack’s Trading Post not only has a broad range of T-shirts, but also lots of caps and other items that make handy souvenirs or gifts.

Great places to buy your souvenir Bermuda T-shirts By Terri mello | It’s on every visitor’s shopping list — a souvenir Bermuda T-shirt. After all, it’s the easiest way to tell the world you’ve paid a visit to paradise. And with our help, you can be sure Uncle Hank and little niece Nicole will be thanking you profusely for that perfect shirt you found. Whether you’re shopping for a co-worker, relative or yourself, choices abound in stores across the island. But to make your life easier we’ve chosen a few of our favourite places to find great Bermuda T-shirts. If you’ve only got time to visit one store, Onion Jack’s Trading Post, handily located in the middle of Hamilton’s Front Street, might just take care of all your needs. Here you’ll find a large array of shirts in all sizes (up to 5XL), styles and colours. They stock simple and classy, kitschy and cute, T-shirts with Bermuda maps, local flowers and birds, Bermuda 82 bermuda.com guide

shopping

Hamilton became our capital in 1815. cottages and even some which proclaim that you’ve survived the Bermuda Triangle. And they cater to all age groups. Onion Jack’s VP Irene Cardwell says the biggest seller is the store’s signature logo T-shirt. “People like it because it’s so unique,” she told us. Be sure to check out the bargain bins, which offer shirts for as little as $6.95. Just a few doors down is Makin’ Waves, which carries T-shirts with surfer-dude flare. The store also has outlets in Dockyard and St. George’s. You can’t miss Riihiluoma’s Flying Colours on Queen Street. It’s a twostorey souvenir shop that sports an array of flags across its storefront. Here you’ll find a dazzling collection of just about any kind of Bermuda T-shirt you could possibly want.

Carole Holding is a local artist with a store on Hamilton’s Front Street. She paints with soft colours to capture traditional Bermuda scenes and you can find a number of her most popular images on the front of adultsized T-shirts. These make lovely, conversation-starting souvenirs. A.S. Cooper is a department store with locations in Hamilton, St. George’s and Dockyard, where you’ll find an array of quality Bermuda T-shirts, ranging from simple and classy to colourful and cute. Brown & Co., on Front Street in Hamilton, has a range of shirt styles bearing a Bermuda logo, with bright selections for children and T-shirts boldly stating ‘Life is always better in Bermuda’. And who are we to disagree? n

10% discount on purchases over $10 on presentation of this ad. Not valid for tobacco products, parking vouchers, phone cards or other specials.

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island style The revealing saga of those cute Bermuda shorts By SIMON JONES | It’s not

everywhere in the world a man can walk down the street in pink shorts and matching knee-high socks and hold his head high. But in Bermuda, no one bats an eyelid when such colourful dressers wend their way around town. Bermuda shorts are a national uniform. They come in all colours, from salmon pink to sunshine yellow. And they are accompanied by a pair of long socks, called Bermuda hose, pulled up to the knee. Add a navy blazer, a tie and smart shoes and you have standard business attire here in the semi-tropics. Don’t be fooled by the bright colours – Bermuda shorts are serious stuff. We once passed a law that states they should not be shorter than six inches above the knee. Photo by Jamie Macmillan

Bermuda shorts are de rigueur among the island’s businessmen, among others.

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Bermuda shorts trace their origins to the British Army; soldiers

Wear tasselled loafers with your shorts. sported cut-off trousers to combat the tropical and desert climates they were sent to. They were created at the turn of the 20th century by office workers in London, whose job it was to make sure the forces were suitably attired in farflung corners of the Empire. The look caught on and by the 1950s, most Bermudian men were happy to don a pair of comfortable shorts for work. Although they are Bermuda shorts by name, they are not made here; typically they’re imported from the United States. They make terrific gifts and/or mementos and who knows — you might start a trend in your hometown. The largest selection of Bermuda shorts can be found at the English Sports Shop, which has several

what’s on island style

When British soldiers wore shorts on the battlefields of North Africa during WWII, little did they know the look would become fashionable in far off Bermuda.

branches islandwide. Its flagship store is at 49 Front Street, Hamilton, tel: 295-2672. n

Bermuda’s leading retailer of exclusive, Bermuda-designed resort wear for men, women and children.

49 Front Street, Hamilton, tel: 295-2672 Mangrove Bay, Somerset, tel: 234-0770 Somers Wharf, St. George’s, tel: 297-0142 bermuda.com guide 85

food & drink

Photo by Kageaki Smith

If you’re shopping or sightseeing in Dockyard, the Bone Fish Bar & Grill is a good place to stop and kick back for a delicious lunch or dinner.

Time to eat Our island is small but it offers an abundance of dining options. Casual dress is acceptable at most restaurants, though some upscale eateries require a jacket and tie. And it’s best to make reservations. The dollar signs (see our key, below) offer a rough guide to prices. Also visit www. bermuda.com for updated information. Barracuda Grill

tête’s. If a little early for your reservation, join the other guests at the cozy, hip and Barracuda Grill is one of Bermuda’s most tres chic bar with its glowing amber cocelebrated restaurants, and is THE place loured resin topped side bar, and enjoy marto go for outstanding seafood and chops tinis made to share, or one of more than 16 prepared in a contemporary style, proudly wines served by the glass. The winning seven Best of Bermuda Restaurant Barracuda Grill, with its warm, Awards! Breathtakingly stylish, price ranges lavish and inviting interior hints Barracuda features warm maper person at a time of luxurious passenger hogany woods, plush banquettes $ Under $20 ships, popping champagne corks, and an undeniably sumptuous and refined dining, all contem$$ $20-$40 but ever so comfortable dining porized to be thoroughly of the $$$ $40-$50 room, suitable for power busimoment. Irresistible seafood and $$$$ Over $50 ness meals or romantic tête-à-

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food & drink

Mussel pie includes papaya, potatoes, chops prepared with expertise and passion take centre stage on immaculate white-lit linen covered tables.  5 Burnaby Hill (above the Hog Penny), Hamilton, tel: 292-1609. Fax 292-8354 www.barracuda-grill.com      Lunch $$ Dinner $$$

Bone Fish Bar & Grill Sit down to exquisite views of Bermuda’s breezy Great Sound. Bone Fish’s aim is to create the finest cuisine using local fresh fish and produce for natural, simple and balanced dishes for your enjoyment. Great food at reasonable prices in a lively atmosphere with indoor/outdoor bar and dining. Open 7 days a week. Lunch 11:30am-5pm, dinner 6pm-10:30pm. 6 Dockyard Terrace, Somerset. Tel: 234-5151. Lunch $, Dinner $$ Photo by Kageaki Smith

Delicious sushi is prepared with great care at Yashi, in Hamilton.

Café Amici An Italian family style restaurant in the heart of historic Dockyard. Enjoy the spirit

Whether you prefer a formal setting or al fresco dining, our chef creatively prepares a wide variety of culinary delights that will please even the most discerning tastes and appetites. Dine with us on our Ocean Terrace and be charmed by the best Bermudian entertainment and a spectacular ocean view nightly. PICTURESQUE VIEWS AND EXOTIC TASTE SENSATIONS Al Fresco dining at the Breakers • Open Daily: Lunch 12.00pm - 2.30pm Dinner 6.30pm - 10.00pm (April to October) • Bermudiana Dining Room 7.00pm - 9.30pm Dinner reservations required 293 1666 • For more information visit www.pinkbeach.com

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bacon, onions, lemon juice and spices.

food & drink

of Italian culture and cuisine in a friendly, intimate atmosphere. Bermuda codfish & potato breakfast every Sunday, 9am to noon. Open daily. Breakfast 9-11am, lunch up until 4pm. Dinner 6-9pm. Buon Appetito! Clocktower Mall, Dockyard. Tel: 234-5009 Breakfast $, Lunch $, Dinner $$

business since 1957 and interestingly is the original inspiration for the Cheers pub in Boston. Authentic is not a word used lightly at Hog Penny, and our 50-plus year history gives us a delightful patina of age that you just can’t replicate. Our record has been hard earned! Gourmet Magazine, in a December 1987 article exclaimed “it was love at first sight for us, as well as the Chatham House throngs who flock here”, and as Gourmet Bermuda’s leading specialty tobacco shop, wrote, this great institution is hard to beat established in 1895. Offering a marvellous for a truly authentic experience. Featuring selection of fine tobaccos and gifts for great cuts of beef, genuine Indian curries, visitors, satisfaction is guaranteed. Our exto-die-for hearty pub style comfort food tensive range includes English Briar pipes, that has won countless ‘Best of Bermuda’ and a selection of Havanas such as Punch, awards, and having been featured on The Partagas, Romeo y Julieta, Upmann, MonFood Network’s ‘$40 A Day’, the Hog Penny tecristo, Cohiba and Bolivar — all at good has and continues to be a favourite spot in savings over U.S. prices. Bermuda for generations of locals and visiCorner of Front and Burnaby Streets, tors alike!  5 Burnaby Hill (Just up from Hamilton. Tel: 292-8422 Front Street) Hamilton.  Tel. 292-2534 Fax 292-8354 Hog Penny Restaurant and Pub   Coconut R_ad_0311.pdf 1 3/11/11 11:33 Coconut AM www.hogpennypub.com R-Yashi_ad_0311.pdf 1 Lunch $$, Dinner $$ The Hog Penny is Hamilton’s oldest Continued on page 92 licensed establishment, having been in

CMY

Cool and cozy local hangout inC downtown Hamilton. M

Monday to Friday: Lunch: 11:30am - 2:30pm Dinner: 5pm - 10:30pm Saturday: 11:30am - 10:30pm Sunday Dinner: 6pm - 10:30pm

CY A fun place to hang, drink and dine whether in a business suit or jeans! CMY

Great food at reasonable prices! K

Now you can try our new Sushi Bar! Definitely the BEST on the island! Location: > Williams House, Reid Street > One block North of Front Street t: 2 92. 1043 | f : 2 9 5.9 1 7 2

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3/11/1

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food & drink

A Dark ’n’ Stormy is Black Seal Rum

Photo by Kageaki Smith

The Pickled Onion, located in the heart of Front Street, is one of our most popular spots for lunch, dinner — or just drinks.

Continued from page 89

Latin & Rumba°r and Java Jive   Heating things up in the very heart of Hamilton with Nuevo Latino inspired cuisine, Latin is a sizzling and chic new restaurant that, according to the many guests that have visited us to date, “is different from everywhere else in Bermuda”. Latin is anchored by our main upscale dining restaurant: Latin Churrascaria — Fine Steaks and Nuevo Latino Cuisine that features exceptional steaks in the style of the finest Brazilian steakhouses, and many different regional dishes from Central and South America, Spanish Caribbean, Miami and even a nod to the Iberian peninsula, all given our twist and artfully presented in our style: Latin style. Join us downstairs in Rumba°r where a long sleek onyx topped glowing bar beckons you to sit and enjoy an authentic Caipirinha, or a tall and delightful Mojito. Meander outside to Bermuda’s only open air below-street courtyard lounge, with Philippe Starck outdoor couches, and low fabric banquettes to encourage long

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afternoons and evenings in total comfort. Don’t be surprised to see Bermuda’s many international business movers and shakers lounging with you, as even the mighty need to relax every once in a while! Need a fantastic cappuccino or panini sandwich on the go? Java Jive is open Monday to Friday from 7am to 4pm to ensure that office workers and visitors alike can get a fantastic pastry, breakfast or lunch to take away! As the degree sign in Rumba°r alludes to, Latin is HOT!  29 Victoria Street, Hamilton.  Tel. 296-5050, fax 296-5333, www.latin-rumbar.com Lunch $$, Dinner $$

Pickled Onion Restaurant and Bar   The Pickled Onion is a contemporary styled upscale but casual restaurant, with Bermuda’s best bar and ‘see and be seen’ vibe. Our chefs have in the past won the prestigious Escoffier Cup at the 2004 Bermuda Culinary Arts Festival, and we have received accolades from great print and visual media like Food and Wine magazine, the Washington Post and most recently Giada’s

mixed with ginger beer – delicious! Weekend Getaways showing primetime on the Food Network. Our style of food is North American focused, with global influences, and our goal is to be considered the best value restaurant experience in Bermuda. Join us at our classy and fun Martini style bar, which is one of Bermuda’s most popular with local professionals or those wanting to enjoy a night out on the town. We feature live entertainment seven nights a week in season, and are located right on Front Street overlooking the harbour. We can’t wait to serve you! 53 Front Street, Hamilton. Tel: 295-2263. Fax 295-6291. www.thepickledonion.com Lunch $$ Dinner $$

what’s on food & drink

ocean views. A jacket is required for gentlemen, ties are optional. The table d’hotel menu changes daily and they are happy to accommodate those with special dietary requirements. Dinner served nightly 7pm — 9:30pm. South Road, Tucker’s Town. Tel: 293-1666 Breakfast $$, Lunch $$, Dinner $$$$

The Pink Beach Club For a most romantic setting make your way to the beautiful Pink Beach Club in Tucker’s Town. The Bermudiana Restaurant prepares five-course gourmet dinners in elegant surroundings with stunning

Photo courtesy of Pink Beach Club

The stunning south shore location of the Pink Beach Club turns every visit into a special occasion.

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photo by Kageaki Smith

Delicious: a typical codfish breakfast.

How to make our famous codfish breakfast By MEREDITH EBBIN | A Bermuda codfish breakfast, usually enjoyed on Sundays, ranks high on the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s list of national dishes. Codfish cakes are equally popular and are eaten any day of the week. Dried salt cod, essential in both dishes, has been part of our culinary tradition for nearly four centuries. It was once a cheap food source for slaves. These days, the Sunday staple that is served in homes, membersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; clubs, hole-in-the-wall eateries and hotels, is a veritable feast. The main ingredients are dried salt cod and potatoes. Most cooks use boneless cod, but purists say dumpfish, which is dried cod with the bones and skin, has a better flavour. Both are laden with salt. So the cod, which is packaged and imported, 94 bermuda.com guide

Have you tried conch stew yet?

food & drink

5759) is on Pitts Bay Road in Hamilton usually from Nova Scotia, must be soaked and in 2009 won an award for its in cold water overnight and the water codfish breakfast. It’s served Sundays changed at least twice. The cod is boiled in 7.30-11.30am. Best to arrive early at fresh water. The potatoes can be cooked both places, where you’ll pay roughly with the cod or separately. The flaked fish $15 per head. and whole potatoes are eaten with avocaIf your budget is a bit bigger, the dos, bananas and olive oil. Fairmont Southampton’s Sunday It’s also delicious served with a breakfast buffet, served at Windows basic tomato sauce or one with ‘the on the Sound, includes codfish and works’ —onions, green peppers and potatoes with all the trimmings. bacon. Others swear by an egg sauce. Reservations are required (tel: 238For many, a codfish breakfast is not 2555 for times). complete without hot cornbread or Codfish recipes can be found in most Johnny bread. With all the trimmings, Bermuda cookbooks. Cecille C. Snaithit’s a hearty meal that should see you Simmons’ The Bermuda Cook Book is a through to suppertime. good one to try. n For codfish cakes, mashed potatoes and cooked cod are mixed together with an egg and seasonings, shaped into balls or patties and then fried. Fishcakes are usually eaten for lunch, served between a bun, with lettuce, tomato, tartar sauce and a few drops of hot sauce. Many locals eat them with a raisin bun — a nod to the Good Friday holiday when fish cakes are eaten with hot cross buns. Codfish breakfast is on the menu 6am-11.30am on Saturdays at the Speciality Inn (tel: 236-3133), a popular home-style eatery on South Road in Smith’s Parish. Bouchée Photo by Jamie Macmillan Restaurant (295Mouthwatering: codfish cakes.

Dried salt cod has been part of our culinary tradition for nearly 400 years

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Your handy pub guide By James Whittaker | Hamilton’s Front Street is the centre of our nightlife scene and the Pickled Onion is a great starting point. With live music, good food and a friendly atmosphere, it’s probably our most popular bar. The Hog Penny, a cozy, oak-panelled bar that inspired the Bull and Finch pub in Cheers, is just steps around the corner. Back on Front Street, Flanagan’s, an Irish bar with an American feel, and the Outback sports bar, which screens everything from basketball to cricket, are worth checking out. Nearby, The Beach – self-proclaimed ‘shame of Front Street’ – is a popular late-night spot. It has a good bar menu and closes late; the ‘shame’ bit kicks in if you find yourself still partying in the early hours, having planned a ‘quiet’ night out. Bermudiana Road caters to a more sophisticated crowd. Smart shoes, collared shirts and well-padded wallets are required here, where upscale wine bars nestle between swish restaurants. The Robin Hood on Richmond Road is a lively, British-style pub with reasonably priced food and live sports. If you’re streetwise and like to stray off the beaten track, take a wander down Court Street, where you’ll 96 bermuda.com guide

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Good service and good conversation are guaranteed at the friendly Hog Penny.

enjoy the atmosphere in bars like the Spinning Wheel, where the DJ keeps the dance floor busy with a mix of classic soul, reggae and soca. The friendly Swizzle Inn, near the airport, is always a good night out and is famous for potent rum swizzle cocktails. North Rock Brewery on South Road, Smith’s Parish is a good spot to sample locally brewed beers — St. David’s Pale Ale is our favourite. The Frog and Onion in Dockyard will also serve you an authentic, local pint of beer and along with the Bone Fish Bar & Grill, a terrific people-watching spot, it’s your best bet in Dockyard. Out west, the Country Squire in Somerset has a beautiful wooden balcony overlooking Mangrove Bay and is worth a visit, while Henry VIII in Southampton is another popular spot. Wherever you go, don’t drink and ride — leave your rental scooter at the hotel and take a bus, cab or ferry. Cheers! n

bermuda.com guide | july 2011

guÄąde JUly 2011

Take a dip Our Top Ten beaches â&#x20AC;&#x201D; which is your favourite?

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