bermuda.com guide May 2010 by Bermuda.com Ltd

bermuda.com guide | may 2010

guıde may 2010

oyster perpetual lady-datejust rolex.com

FOR EVERY SPECIAL OCCASION 55 & 71 FRONT STREET & 16 QUEEN STREET, HAMILTON WATER & YORK STREETS, ST. GEORGE’S CLOCKTOWER MALL, DOCKYARD • ALL MAJOR HOTELS • TEL (441) 295 2351

Sentimental journey How Americans fell in love with Bermuda

OFFICIAL ROLEX RETAILER

Heritage Month special edition 0510 BDA guidecoveralt01lr.indd 1

Free 4/29/10 2:18 PM

FOR EVERY SPECIAL OCCASION 55 & 71 FRONT STREET & 16 QUEEN STREET, HAMILTON • WATER STREET, ST. GEORGE’S CLOCKTOWER MALL, DOCKYARD • ALL MAJOR HOTELS • TEL (441) 295 2351 • FAX (441) 292 9153

contents

Cover image is one of a series of vintage travel posters available ($20 each) at Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art in the Botanical Gardens. Tel: 236-2950 E-mail: mworks@logic.bm

galleries 19 featured exhibition 22

Hamilton 42 Dockyard 48 shipwrecks 62

n Events

n Nature

n Arts & culture

calendar 12-19

our lizards, birds & frogs 64

n Features

n News

America’s love affair with Bermuda 24 a night at the movies 30 the movie, The Deep 60

n Food & drink best places to eat 83-96 classic local recipes 92 pub guide 94 enjoy a cuppa 96

n History/Heritage bygone Bermuda 8 our Gombey dancers 20 Bermuda on canvas 22 the story of tourism 24 visit the Old Town 32 best historic sites 50 shipwrecks 62 Bermuda shorts saga 72

n Insight editor’s welcome 6

n Maps island map between 32 & 33 St. George’s 34

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baby dolphins, beach makeover 10

n People Premier’s welcome 4 Swizzle Inn’s boss 28

n Practicalities health, customs etc 66-71

n Real Estate ownership options 52

n Shopping flex the plastic 74-81

n Sightseeing east to west 32-51

n Sports & activities golf, tennis etc 54-59

n Transportation Bus info 67, schedule 49; ferry info 68, schedule 17 & 18; scooter rentals 69, how to ride safely 70

n Weather what to expect 69

Co-publisher & advertising manager: Lisa Beauchamp, lbeauchamp@bermudasun.bm Tel: 278-1850 Co-publisher & editor-in-chief: Tony McWilliam, tmcwilliam@ bermudasun.bm Tel: 278-1860 Design & Layout: Creative Circle Media Consulting Account executive: Anona Everett Tel: 278-1832 Accounts: Donna Vesely Tel: 278-1831 Delivery: Lloyd Somner Contributors: Theresa Airey, Andrew Dobson, Meredith Ebbin, Lance Furbert, Sirkka Huish, Helen Jardine, Simon Jones, Jamie Macmillan, Duncan McDowall, Leanne McGrath, Terri Mello, Kageaki Smith, James Whittaker. Special thanks to Alison Outerbridge & Jan Card bermuda.com guide Published by The Bermuda Sun a subsidiary of MediaHouse © Bermuda.com Ltd. Printed by Island Press Ltd. Web: www.bermuda.com Information and services contained in the guide are believed to be correct at the time of printing; however, prices and times may be subject to change without notice. The Bermuda Sun Limited makes every effort to ensure accuracy but accepts no liability for errors or omissions. Reproduction in whole or in part by permission of the publisher only.

welcome to bermuda

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Premier Dr. Ewart Brown strikes a clean one off the tee at Port Royal Golf Course.

A FEW WORDS FROM OUR PREMIER | Welcome to Bermuda. You’ve arrived

at the outset of summer and there is a wealth of things for you to do. Relax on our soft, pink-sand beaches. Hike along the path where trains once ran, or on the African Diaspora Heritage Trail. Run where the terrain is challenging and the scenery magnificent. Visit old turtles and engage with fish and other fascinating creatures at our zoo and aquarium. Spend time shopping in our unique stores in the capital city, Hamilton. Visit the historic Town of St. George — it was our first capital. At the other end of the island, explore the huge National Museum of Bermuda at Dockyard. Play golf on our fabulous courses. Try snorkelling and scuba diving. Take a charter and go deep-sea fishing. Take a taxi or a bus to see the island in new ways. Ride the ferries and see what a real island paradise we have. Wherever you go, whatever you do, experience the warmth and generosity of Bermudians. Wherever you go and whatever you do, I’m sure you will have a wonderful time. Sincerely, Dr. the Hon. Ewart F. Brown, JP, MP Premier and Minister of Tourism & Transport

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editor’s welcome

Photo by Kageaki Smith

The May 24 Heritage Day Parade on Hamilton’s Front Street is one of the most colourful and well-attended events of the year.

Dazzling parade crowns our Heritage Month By TONY McWILLIAM | May is when the summer fun begins. As the sea

temperature rises above 70, islanders dig out their bathing suits and snorkel masks, many boats gets their first proper outing of the year and all of our amenities are up and running again for you to enjoy. A benevolent sun god turns up the dial a good five/six degrees and the national mood, though never gloomy, is one of radiant optimism about the months ahead. At the same time, we also look back. May is Heritage Month and its signature event is the Heritage Day Parade on Front Street (May 24). Its origins stretch back to England and Queen Victoria’s birthday and it evolved from Victoria Day into Empire Day and Commonwealth Day until we finally settled on Bermuda Day. Its modern incarnation stems from civil unrest here in the 1970s; a black British politician, Lord David Pitt, suggested an annual celebration to enhance race relations. The parade you’ll see on May 24 is certainly diverse, with majorettes, calypso queens and marching bands performing alongside native Indians, school floats and our beloved Gombey dancers (see page 20). 6 bermuda.com guide

on welcome Bermudians rarely swim until May 24. editor’swhat’s Heritage Month has a ‘green’ theme this year, with civic leaders hoping to instil the extraordinary resourcefulness of Bermuda’s forefathers into their more materialistic, i-Phone-toting descendants. Bermuda Day also features a 13-mile, Somerset to Hamilton half-marathon, a cycling race and inline skating. For sailing fans, May 24 is also when the Bermuda Fitted Dinghy Racing season starts. Original Bermuda Dinghies were roundbottomed and featured long, shallow keels so they could safely run over reefs. In the first recorded race in 1853, metal, deep keel extensions were temporarily ‘fitted’, to aid sailing into the wind. The dinghies are 14-feet long with masts up to 40-feet and have a crew of six; they’re needed to help bail out the shallow boats (which often capsize) and, under a unique rule African Diaspora Heritage Trail Barr’s Bay Park

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110

that adds to the spectacle, sailors can dive overboard to lighten the load. They’ll be racing in St. George’s Harbour on May 24. In keeping with the heritage theme, our special feature starting on page 24 tells the enchanting story of how Americans fell in love with Bermuda and created our tourism industry. It’s beautifully crafted by our friend Duncan McDowell, a history professor at Carleton University and a frequent visitor to the island. Another accomplished writer, the American Bruce Catton, once described heritage as “greater than any one of us… in the end it can lift up our eyes beyond the glow in the sunset skies”. Beyond the glow of Bermuda’s glittering sunsets, heritage is defined by lasting, human legacies and we hope your visit forges durable ties with our people and our island. n African Diaspora Heritage Trail St. Peter’s Church

BERMUDA

African Diaspora Heritage Trail Barr’s Bay Park

African Diaspora Heritage Trail Samaritan’s Lodge

African Diaspora Heritage Trail Barr’s Bay Park

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Afric

Afric Co

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Afric

GOVERNMENT OF BERMUDA Ministry of Energy, Telecommunications and E-Commerce Bermuda Post Office

The Bermuda Post Office is pleased to offer “Bermuda’s African Diaspora Heritage Trail”, B E R M U D A 70 a series of four stamps depicting historic sites linked with the development and progress of people 110 BERMUDA of African descent in Bermuda. African Diaspora Heritage Trail Samaritan’s Lodge

African Diaspora Heritage Trail Barr’s Bay Park

African Diaspora Heritage Trail Cobbs Hill Methodist Church

BERMUDA

African Diaspora Heritage Trail St. Peter’s Church

BERMUDA

RELEASE DATE: 20 MAY 2010 | COST PER SET $3.00 | OFFICIAL FIRST DAY COVER $5.00

bygone bermuda

Hellish prison hulks housed labour force By Theresa Airey | In the 1800s, many of the Royal Navy’s fighting ships ended up as hulks, stripped of their masts and sails and converted into makeshift warehouses, hospitals — even prisons. Although introduced as a temporary fix to a shortage of facilities on land, the hulks quickly became a cost-efficient and integral part of the British Government’s response to an increase in crime during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Some prison hulks were sent to Bermuda and their convicts put to work building fortifications. They were moored in various locations including St. George’s Harbour, Spanish Point (just outside the city of Hamilton) and Ireland Island (Dockyard). Some of the imported convicts were artisans, whose intricate carvings have since been recovered by divers. The prison hulks located in St. George’s prompted islanders to nickname the 8 bermuda.com guide

harbour Convict Bay — a colloquialism that survives to this day. Conditions below decks must have been hellish: hot, dark and alternately dank or humid. No matter how serene they might have looked from a distance, floating on our turquoise waters, the hulks were little more than floating dungeons. In this grim chapter of our history, souls were lost at sea — not on raging oceans but in the stillness of our ports. Visit pretty St. George’s Harbour today and it’s hard to imagine such hardship. n   This is an image from Theresa Airey’s book, ‘Bermuda Then and Now’, a collection of hand-coloured photographs taken in the early 1900s and accompanied by contemporary shots taken 100 years later, in 2007 and 2008.  The book can be found in all Bermuda bookstores.

in the news

Photo by Jamie Macmillan, courtesy of Dolphin Quest

First swimming lessons: Bailey with calf, left and Caliban with hers.

Baby joy at Dolphin Quest There are some new faces at Dolphin Quest — and they have bottlenoses. Caliban, a 17-year old dolphin, and Bailey, 21, both gave birth on April 1. Then on April 13, six-year-old Ely, another Atlantic bottlenose, had her first calf. Roma Hayward, Manager of Marine Animals, told us both Caliban and Bailey “delivered their calves rostrum, head-first, which although not unheard of, is rare. The births went very smoothly, and mothers and calves are healthy and active.” And Christine Mihelcic, general manager, said both new mom Ely and her calf were doing well. “Bailey and Caliban are also playing their part and helping out our first-time mother.” Caliban has given birth four times here, to Hayden, Tatem and Bermudiana. Bailey also has four calves; Somers, Nea, Ely and Malibar. A competition will be announced this month to name the new arrivals. Dolphin Quest is located at Dockyard, Tel: 234-4464. 10 bermuda.com guide

Our waters boast 650 species of fish.

in the news

restaurateur, told us. Tobacco Bay is renowned for great snorkeling and its surrounding rocks help protect it from large swells, making it a hit with families. Open daily, 10am-7pm.

Staying informed just got easier Family-friendly Tobacco Bay, where new managers are improving the facilities for visitors.

Tobacco Bay gets a smokin’ makeover The beach amenities at Tobacco Bay, St. George’s, have had a major facelift. The Corporation of St. George’s concession is now run by Stanley Harris and Nick Brown and new features include kayak rentals and wider choices in food and drinks. Lunch will include new options such as paninis and wraps. Specialty coffees, ice-creams Nick Brown is and pastries will be expanding the also be available menu and facilities during the day at Tobacco Bay. while tapas and snacks will be served at sunset. There’s beer and wine, too. “Stan is a fisherman so we will have lots of fresh, local fish”, Mr. Brown, a popular

There are two new Visitor Information Centres in St. George’s, run by the St. George’s Foundation. The primary location is the World Heritage Centre, Penno’s Wharf and the second is at the Deliverance replica, just off the town square on Ordnance Island. Both are open 10am-4pm daily. Tel: 297-5791 Also, new walking tours have been organized; they take the path of the U.S. civil war blockade runners and explore the quaint streets of historic St. George’s — a favourite subject for Bermudian artists due to their unique architecture. n Reports by Helen Jardine

Photos by Kageaki Smith

Lacey Jennings, left, manages the Visitor Information Centre at Penno’s Wharf, St. George’s.

bermuda.com guide 11

what’s on

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Wednesday nights are Harbour Nights in the city of Hamilton, featuring arts & crafts stalls, food and live entertainment.

May is buzzing with activity events n Open Day May 1 Special events to launch Heritage Month. 10am-4pm, National Museum of Bermuda, Dockyard. Free. Tel: 234-1418 e-mail: info@bmm.bm www.bmm.bm

n Some Enchanted Evening 2010 May 1 Bermuda School of Music plus jazz ensemble perform. Mid-Ocean Amphitheatre, Fairmont Southampton Resort, 8pm. $40 adults, $15 students. Tickets: www.bdatix. bm or tel: 296-5100 www.musicschool.bm

n Historical re-enactment Daily Watch the ducking of the wench in King’s Compiled by Sirkka Huish. Listings are subject to change: for the latest, call the numbers provided and visit our website www.bermuda. com. To submit a listing, e-mail shuish@ bermudasun.bm

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Square, St. George’s, followed by live entertainment. Noon daily except Fri and Sun. Tel: 297-1532 e-mail: ctrott@stgeorge.bm www.stgeorgesfoundation.com

n Harbour Nights Every Wednesday Arts & crafts stalls, food & live entertainment, including Gombey dancers. Front Street, Hamilton, 7-10pm.

n Market Nights Every Tuesday Arts & crafts stalls, food & live entertainment. King’s Square, St. George’s, 7-10pm

n Cruising Rally Association’s Atlantic Cup May 2 See the end of the race as yachts sail from Nanny Cay Marina, Roadtown, Tortola, to St. George’s Dinghy & Sports Club www.carib1500.com

n Bermuda Literacy Festival May 6-9 Workshops, readings, signings & events,

what’s on

We have scores of limestone caves. featuring Caribbean and U.S. authors & publishers. Grotto Bay Hotel, Hamilton Parish. Free. www.bermudanationallibrary.bm

board to lighten the load. A great spectacle (see page 7). St. George’s Harbour. Contact Jennifer Mello, tel: 236-4411

n Red Cross White Diamond Celebration

n Beating of the Retreat

May 8 Red Cross celebrates 60 years in Bermuda. Dinner dance, Fairmont Southampton Resort. Tickets $200, includes drinks. Contact Ann Spencer-Arscott, tel: 2368253. www.bermudaredcross.com

May 26 & May 31 Bermuda Regiment military band & drum corps, & Bermuda Islands Pipe Band; concert & parade. Front Street, Hamilton (May 26) 9-10pm. Dockyard (May 31). Contact Dwight Robinson, Bermuda Regiment, tel: 238-2470

n Folk n’ Funny

n Bermuda Guitar Festival

May 8 Live music, Bermuda Folk Club, Spanish Point Boat Club from 8pm. Cash bar. $10 non-members, $5 members. Tel: 2912070 www.folkclub.bm

n Flea Market May 8 Hosted by St. George’s Historical Society. Ordnance Island, St. George’s, 10am-2pm. Contact Verna Oatley, tel: 297-0343

n Historical re-enactment May 9 Marks 400th anniversary of departure of the Sea Venture for Jamestown, Virginia. Entertainment & family activities. 4pm on board replica of the Deliverance, Ordnance Island, St. George’s. Tel: 297-5791

May 27-30 Concerts, classes & workshops. Artists include Louise Southwood, Steve Crawford, Adam Rafferty, The Brasil Guitar Duo. St. Andrew’s Church, Court/Church streets, Hamilton. Tickets $30 www.bdatix.bm

n Ensemble Singers Spring Concert May 30 Traditional spirituals with American soprano Cecilia Tucker. Wesley Methodist Church, 4pm. $30. Tel: 236-2219 e-mail info@theensemblesingers.bm

activities n Caitlin End-to-End

May 15 Subject: Bermuda’s rich historical & cultural heritage. Bermuda Aquarium, Museum & Zoo. $10. Contact Folklife Officer Dr. Kim Dismont Robinson, tel: 292-9447

May 1 Annual race in which participants run, walk, cycle, swim & row from one end of the island to the other for charity. Various morning start times. Tel: 292-6992 www. bermudaendtoend.bm

n Bermuda Day celebrations

n Chewstick

May 24 Half-marathon derby at 9:30am. Heritage Day Parade at 2pm, from Barnard Park in Pembroke to Hamilton’s Front Street. Bermuda Regiment Band, Majorettes, Gombey dancers, dancerettes, pipe bands and floats

May 8, 22 Open-mic night welcomes musicians, singers & poets. 9pm-2am. $10. Spinning Wheel Entertainment Complex, 33 Court Street, Hamilton. Tel: 292-2439 www.chewstick. com

n Bermuda Fitted Dinghy Races

n Bermuda Regiment 5 Mile

May 24 Uniquely, sailors are allowed to jump over-

May 9 Bermuda Track & Field Association hosts

n Lecture

bermuda.com guide 13

what’s on

Bermuda’s population is about 66,000.

9am race & 3-mile fun walk. Tel: 296-0951 e-mail: btfa@logic.bm www.btfa.bm

n Bermuda Amateur Senior Championships May 11-13 Bermuda Golf Association invites men & women to play 54 and 36 holes respectively. Riddell’s Bay Golf Course, Warwick. Tel: 238-1367 www.bermudagolf.org

n Scottish dancing May 15 Caledonian Society of Bermuda hosts evening of traditional Scottish dancing. 8pm, Fairmont Hamilton Princess. Music by Scotland’s Ceilidh Band & Bermuda Islands Pipe Band. Tickets $45. Tel: 334-9627 e-mail inhind@becl.bm

n Bermuda Bridge Club Mon, Wed, Thur & Fri, various times. Visitors welcome, must bring a partner. $10 7 Pomander Road, Paget. Tel: 5410551 e-mail: director@bermudabridge. com www.bermudabridge.com

tours n Beyond Bermuda tours Historian Tim Rogers hosts history and nature tours. Tel: 234-4082 e-mail: trogers@northrock.bm

n Byways Bermuda Tours Fully escorted tours with driver, guide & refreshments. Tel: 504-8687 www.bywaysbermuda.com

n Bermuda Institute of Ocean Sciences Tour Wednesdays Hour-long tour of labs, grounds & research vessels of marine research centre. 10am, free. Biological Lane, Ferry Reach, St. George’s. Tel: 297-1880 e-mail info@bios.edu. www.bios.edu

n National Trust Tour Wed & Fri Tour gardens of Waterville, an 18th century Bermuda house & the National Trust’s HQ, & Paget Marsh Nature Reserve. Starts 10am. Must book in advance. $50 per person for 4 people or $150 per couple for a private tour. Contact Laurie, tel: 2366483 e-mail: laurie@bnt.bm. www.bnt.bm

n Famous Homes and Hideaways sightseeing cruise Various days/times Cruise into an exclusive neighbourhood known as Millionaire’s Row plus learn about our flora & fauna. $45. From Hamilton Harbour & Dockyard. Tel: Geri Roberts, Consort Cruises, tel: 335-7201 e-mail consort@transact.bm

n Sessions House Tour Byways Bermuda Tours Tour the island in Heidi’s comfortable minibus; a wonderful opportunity to see and experience the real Bermuda with a well-informed, enthusiastic guide and driver. Heidi offers 4-hour afternoon tours with refreshments, and an all-day tour with complimentary refreshments. $100 per person, discount for more than 4: $80 each. Reservations: 535-9169 www.bywaysbermuda.com   bermudafootsteps@logic.bm

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Mondays Tour home of our Parliament & Supreme Court. Free. 10:30am & 2:30pm. Corner of Parliament & Church Streets, Hamilton. Tel: 292-7408. e-mail: avfox@gov.bm

n Taste of Bermuda Sundays Sample local products; rum, pepper jams, rum cakes, honey, sherry peppers & ginger beer. From 1:30pm. Free. Cooperage Atrium, Bermuda Craft Market, Dockyard. Tel: 234-3208 e-mail: bdacraftmkt@ northrock.bm Continued on page 19

T he highlight of your visi t will be at…

Harbour Nights

The Bermuda Way of Life” Life “The Every Wednesday Night on Front Street in Hamilton 7pm to 10pm from April 28th to September 8th

Create memories by participating in a variety of Live Entertainment • Local Traditions • Water Activities • Train Rides • Children’s Activities Local Arts and Crafts • Gombeys • Bermudian and Ethnic Foods For more details visit www.bermudachamber.bm Sponsored By is spon or

ed by

this ev

Hosted by

Join us in the West End for a fun-filled Street Festival

Happy Hour: ‘Taste of Bermuda’(free samples) at Frog & Onion Pub and Bermuda Craft Market 6pm - 8pm The Main Event: (8pm-10:30pm) A Variety of Live Entertainment • Glass Blowing • Gombeys Clocktower Shopping Mall (open until 9pm) • Children’s Activities • Local Arts and Crafts • Bermudian and Ethnic Foods After Hours: Salsa at Bone Fish Bar & Grill 8:45pm - 12am Live local entertainment at Snorkel Park Beach 10pm to 2am

Every Monday Night in Dockyard June – September 2010 For more details visit www.bermudachamber.bm Hosted by

Sponsored By

SUMMER FERRY SCHEDULE 2010

GOVERNMENT OF BERMUDA Ministry of Tourism and Transport Department of Marine and Ports

Hamilton • Dockyard • St. George’s ORANGE ROUTE MOTORBIKES MAY EMBARK AT ALL STOPS

Monday Friday

Leave Leave Leave Leave Leave Leave Arrive Hamilton St. David’s Dockyard St. George’s St. David’s Dockyard Hamilton 6:40 8:45 9:30 1:30 2:30 5:20

7:30 7:40 9:15 10:00* 10:00 10:45* 10:45 11:30 12:15 11:30 12:15 1:00 2:00 3:00 4:00 3:00 4:00 4:45 6:05 6:10 7:00 (*) Must disembark in Dockyard to transfer if travelling to Hamilton

Tickets/Tokens

Passes

Fare Information Passes valid on all routes on both ferries & buses

8:20 12:35 1:20 4:20 5:05 7:20

Marine and Ports shall not be liable for loss or damage to property.

Adult 1-Day Adult 2-Day Adult 3-Day Adult 4-Day

$12.00 $20.00 $28.00 $35.00

Adult 7-Day Adult Monthly Pass Adult 3-Month Pass

$45.00 $55.00 $135.00

Student Passes (5-18yrs)

All Students (residents only) must present a transportation pass when using public transportation.

Please ensure you have a token or ticket before boarding

BLUE ROUTE/GREEN ROUTE Adult One-way $4.00 Bikes an additional $4.00 Adult-15 tickets $30.00 Student (5-16yrs) One-way $2.00 Student-15 tickets $7.50 Child Under Age 5 FREE Bermuda Senior Citizens FREE with Special Persons Pass

PINK ROUTE Adult One-way Adult-15 tickets Student (5-16yrs) One-way Student-15 tickets Child Under Age 5 Bermuda Senior Citizens with Special Persons Pass

$2.50 $20.00 $2.00 $7.50 FREE FREE

ORANGE ROUTE - Most economical option is a Transportation Pass. Adult One-way $4.00 (Hamilton to/from Dockyard) Adult One-way $4.00 (Dockyard to/from St. George’s) Adult One-way $8.00 (Hamilton to/from St. George’s) Bikes an additional $4.00 (Hamilton to/from Dockyard) Bikes an additional $4.00 (Dockyard to/from St. George’s) Student 5-16yrs One-way $2.00 (Ham/Dock) $4.00 (Ham/St. Geo) Child Under Age 5 FREE Bermuda Senior Citizens FREE with Special Persons Pass

Passes, Tokens & Tickets available from the Hamilton Ferry & Bus Terminals, Visitors’ Service Bureau, sub-post offices, hotels and guest houses.

Hamilton Ferry Terminal open Mon-Fri 6.30am-8pm • Sat 7.30am-6pm • Sun & Holidays 8.30am-6.30pm Service is subject to change. For further information please call Hamilton Terminal 295-4506. www.seaexpress.bm

SUMMER FERRY SCHEDULE 2010 Hamilton • West End • Dockyard BLUE ROUTE

Monday - Friday

MOTORBIKES MAY EMBARK AT HAMILTON & DOCKYARD ONLY Leave Hamilton

Leave Dockyard

6:50 7:10 7:50 8:30 8:50 10:00 10:30 11:00 11:30 12:00 1:00 3:00 4:00 4:10 4:30 5:30 6:00 6:30 7:30 9:00 10:00

7:30 9:00 9:30 10:00 10:30 11:00 11:30 12:00 12:30 1:30 3:30 4:30 5:00 6:40 8:00 9:30 10:30

Saturdays, Sundays and Public Holidays

Leave Hamilton 9:00 10:00 11:00 12:00 1:30 2:30 4:00 5:00 6:00 7:00 8:30 10:00

Watford Bridge

Cavello Bay

Arrive Hamilton

7:20 8:20 9:10 10:45 4:50 5:50 7:00 Goes to or from Green Route

7:10 8:10 9:20 11:45 4:40 6:00 6:50 9:15 -

7:45 8:15 8:45 9:20 9:50 10:20 10:50 11:20 11:50 12:20 12:50 1:50 4:00 4:50 5:20 5:20 6:20 7:10 7:20 8:20 9:55 10:50

Leave Dockyard

Arrive Hamilton

9:30 10:30 11:30 12:30 2:00 3:00 4:30 5:30 6:30 7:45 9:15 10:30 Additional Saturday Service Only

9:50 10:50 11:50 12:50 2:20 3:20 4:50 5:50 6:50 8:15 9:45 11:00

Hamilton, Dockyard, Rockaway, St. George’s and St. David’s are accessible to persons with disability. It is not accessible on the Green Route at 9:15 am, 10:45 am and 1:45 pm, also from Dockyard on the Blue Route at 10:00 am and 11:00 am. CASH NOT ACCEPTED ON FERRIES

NO MOTORBIKES WHERE INDICATED

Service is subject to change. For further information please call Hamilton Terminal 295-4506. Hamilton Ferry Terminal open Mon-Fri 6.30am-8pm • Sat 7.30am-6pm • Sun & Holidays 8.30am-6.30pm Marine and Ports shall not be liable for loss or damage to property.

Bermuda is 181 islands, islets, rocks. Continued from page 14

n Walking Club of Bermuda Sundays Free 6-7-mile walks at scenic locations. For starting points visit www.walk.free.bm Contact Laura Gorham, tel: 737-0437 e-mail: ltgorham@ibl.bm

n Botanical Gardens Tour Tue, Wed & Fri Meet at Berry Hill entrance near Visitors’ Centre, Paget, 10.30am. Tel: 236-5291

arts n ACE Gallery May Local artists’ exhibit, including work by Kaleidoscope Arts Foundations (KAF) instructors. Free. Open Tues, Weds, Thurs 11am-2pm. ACE building, Woodbourne Road, Hamilton. Contact Amy Shilingford, tel: 299-9365 e-mail: info@acebermuda.com www.acebermuda.com

what’s on

City Hall & Arts Centre, Church Street, Hamilton. Tel: 292-3824 e-mail: bsoa@ibl. bm. www.bsoa.bm

n Crisson & Hind Art Gallery Hand-carved sculptures from Zimbabwe. Free. 71 Front St, Hamilton. Tel: 295-1117 www.crissonandhind.com

n Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art From May 7, ‘Our House’ explores local architecture, history & traditions. May 28: gold lead works by local artist Peter Lapsley. May 29: family fun day with fabric crafts. Open Mon-Sat 10am-4pm. Botanical Gardens, Paget. Tel: 236-2950 e-mail: mworks@logic.bm www.bermudamasterworks.com

n World Heritage Centre ‘Wither the Fates: Bermuda’s beginnings’ — 17th century Bermuda artifacts. $5 adults, $2 children. Open daily 10am-4pm. Penno’s Wharf, St. George’s. Tel: 2975791 www.stgeorgesfoundation.org

n Bermuda Arts Centre May Members’ Spring Show. Free. Open MonSun 11am-4pm. Dockyard. Tel: 234-2809 e-mail: artcentre@ibl.bm www.artbermuda.bm

n Bermuda National Gallery May David L. White Collection (Bermuda scenic landscapes, see page 22) & Vivienne J. Gardner, A Tribute (The art of stained glass). Free. Open Mon-Fri 10am-4pm & Sat 10am-2pm. City Hall, Church Street, Hamilton. Tel: 295-9428 www.bng.bm

n Bermuda Society of Arts May TechArt 2010, & Ian MacDonald-Smith’s ‘Half-life’ photography until May 19. From May 21, other exhibitions include ‘Culture Unwrapped’, a quick drawing show. Free. Open Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat 10am-2pm.

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Take a stroll with us: the Walking Club of Bermuda welcomes visitors.

bermuda.com guide

heritage Our dazzling Gombey dancers

Photo by

Hypnotic rhythms and striking costumes make the Gombeys a hit wherever they go.

By Simon Jones | Like the summery chime of the ice-cream truck, it’s an alluring sound with an almost mystical resonance that many islanders trace back to early childhood: the unmistakable, snare-and-kettle-drum lilt of the Gombeys. You’ll hear them before you see them and might find yourself being drawn closer, trance-like, when the distinctive 20

bermuda.com guide

drums and whistles issue their frenetic summons. There’s a dark side to their origin — Gombey masks were used to protect identities from wrathful slave owners — but their displays are overwhelmingly joyous and triumphant. Gombey dancing was originally performed only on Boxing Day and New Year’s Day — the two days when slaves were given a rest from their labours. But today they dance at all kinds of events, from parties and sports matches to street parades. Dancers are male, include young boys and perform in groups of 10-30, sporting brilliantly coloured, handmade costumes that evoke the plumage of tropical birds. A fusion of West African, Caribbean and American Indian influences, the movement was born when black slaves were first brought to the island. Dances, passed down through the generations, are sometimes based on Bible verses. The African Bantu word ‘Gombey’ is related to the Bahamian goombay, a similar dance tradition: It also means ‘rhythm’ and refers to a goat skin drum of African origin. The bodies and faces of the dancers are covered to avoid identification; owners did not like their slaves participating as Gombeys. Some carry whips or tomahawks and the captain of the troupe wears the most elaborate costume. Dazzling and energetic, Gombey dancing is one of Bermuda’s strongest and most beguiling cultural traditions. n

A trip to Bermuda would not be complete without a visit to the island’s newest attraction; The Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art. Opened on March 2nd, 2008, this state of the art building is the first purpose built museum in the history of Bermuda. Housed in the beautiful Botanical Gardens in Paget, five minutes from Hamilton, the new museum is in itself a work of art. Plan your visit and learn about Bermuda’s culture and history, there is no better stop on your vacation itinerary than the Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art!

Museum Hours: Monday-Saturday | 10:00am - 4:00pm Closed on all Public Holidays.

Entry is $5. Free for members and children under 12. Museum is handicapped accessible with ramps and an elevator.

Tel: 441 236-2950 • Fax: 441 236-4402 email: mworks@logic.bm

Private tours can be arranged and more information can be found on our website

The Botanical Gardens 183 South Road Paget DV o4 • Bermuda

www.bermudamasterworks.com

arts scene

How visiting painters captured old Bermuda

Photo courtesy of David L. White Collection

Among the works on show is Ferry Dock, St. George’s by American Impressionist Reynolds Beal.

By Helen Jardine | Sometimes

there is no better way to view your own country than through the eyes of a visitor. The impressive David L. White Collection, currently on show at the Bermuda National Gallery (BNG), gives both locals and tourists alike a chance to experience Bermuda from a new perspective. There are 55 paintings of Bermuda, all painted by visitors between 1860 and 1970. And they trace the 22 bermuda.com guide

development of a period of art that saw American Impressionism give way to early Modernism. Since May is Heritage Month in Bermuda, this is the ideal time to take fond glimpses into the past through art. Gallery director Lisa Howie described the pieces as “luminescent”. “Impressionism in general is really about capturing the play of light on landscapes,” she says, “moving away from determined realism to capture the feel of the moment. The brushstrokes are still obvious in some cases and the canvas may not even be finished.” She notes how construction has changed local vistas since the paintings were made — a reminder of “the delicacy and fragility of our environment”. The director’s favourite piece is a William Howe-Foote piece called Old Bermuda House, from 1917. David White has been collecting for decades and recently the BNG published a book on his collection called Cross Currents, Impressions of Bermuda. It’s $50 and proceeds go to the gallery. The Bermuda National Gallery, City Hall Arts Centre, Church Street, Hamilton, is open Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm and Saturdays 10am-2pm, Tel: 2959428. n

AFRICAN SCULPTURE

BY THE SHONA MASTER FINE ARTISTS OF ZIMBABWE

Mike and Dusty Hind in the Gallery.

Magnificent works handcarved in rare stones by the Shona Master Fine Artists of Zimbabwe. Exquisite animals, wonderful heads, and intriguing abstracts. Ngoni Mother and Child by Peter Chikumbirike in Cobalt Stone 31" x 26" x 13"

2ND FLOOR, CRISSON BUILDING 71 FRONT STREET, HAMILTON (The yellow building next to the Emporium) Phone 441-295-1117

heritage

How Americans fell for their place in the sun By Duncan McDowall | For a century and a quarter, Americans have

been in love with Bermuda. Every year, tens of thousands of Americans discover the joys of its mid-Atlantic tranquility. If ever a tourist destination had what advertisers call “brand recognition,” it is Bermuda; golf in Bermuda shorts, pink beaches, colourful stone homes and a distinctive national character that blends British decorum and outgoing friendliness. But it wasn’t always so. In the early nineteenth century, Americans knew little of the island and what they knew wasn’t flattering. Bermuda was hot, humid and British — an outpost of Empire situated menacingly close to the upstart republic. Its jagged reefs snared American ships, while speedy Bermuda sloops pilfered America’s trade with the Caribbean. To add insult to injury, Bermuda merchants profited handsomely from trading with the rebel South in the Civil War. When President Lincoln appointed Charles Maxwell Allen as U.S. Consul to the colony during the Civil War, Allen had little that was positive to report. U.S. advertising agencies were quick to promote the glamour and beauty of Bermuda. Image courtesy of the National Museum of Bermuda

“Every hole and corner” of the colony, he reported to Washington, “was filled up with Southerners”. Bermuda was a “Godforsaken place” replete with “ants, fleas and cockroaches”. America’s post-war prosperity changed all this. In the midst of the Gilded Age of plenty, east coast patricians, grown wealthy and restless by their urban-industrial success, developed a yen for respite from the hurly-burly of modern life. They sought out sought the sun — an appetite that places like Florida was soon feeding. Now Bermuda beckoned and as well as sunshine it had British rural serenity and natural beauty. On his first visit to Bermuda, Mark Twain was smitten by the colony’s uniqueness. “This paradise has one great advantage,” he noted, “its “very bermuda.com guide 25

heritage

Tourism arrivals on the island peaked

inaccessibility… it can never be overrun by a noisy, promiscuous rabble”. In 1883 Princess Louise, Queen Victoria’s daughter, wintered in the colony and Americans were mesmerized. The New York Times dispatched a correspondent to “royal watch”. In doing so, he fell in love with the island, a place where “birds sang, crickets chirp and people drank cherry cobblers” in the depth of winter. The Bermuda bug soon bit others. With its reefs and floral abundance, Bermuda drew naturalists. “We are in a little world of our own,” Angelo Heilprin of the Academy of Natural Sciences in Philadelphia wrote in 1889, “distinct from either Europe or America”. Ten years later, the American artist Winslow Homer arrived with his easel, booked into a guest house in Somerset and began to paint the vivid interplay of sea, land and sky in Bermuda. Bermudians — ever conscious that their tiny island had no resources beyond sun and surf — were canny enough to respond. They built hotels, naming their first grand resort hotel The Princess.

Photo courtesy of Don Short www.kindley.us/

Until its closure in 1948, the single-track railway that traversed Bermuda was a spectacular sight for U.S. visitors.

26 bermuda.com guide

‘Babe Ruth came to golf; James Thurber to sip gin and dispense witticisms.’ They subsidized steamer service from New York’s Pier 47 to the docks on Front Street. They engaged America’s best advertisers to project the image of Bermuda as “the isles of rest”. And when prominent Americans like Twain and Woodrow Wilson said that they wanted no noisy automobiles in their getaway, Bermuda obliged, banning cars in paradise from 1907 to 1947. Bermuda cultivated niche tourism markets. In the 1920s, honeymooners were lured to the island, where they might invoke the good luck of kissing beneath a Bermuda stone moongate. Babe Ruth came to golf; James Thurber to sip gin and dispense witticisms. In the 1950s and 1960s, American college kids came in droves to party

at 631,000 in 1986. during College Weeks. The ultra rich were enticed to settle in the seclusion of picturesque Tucker’s Town as a kind of mid-Atlantic Tuxedo Park. Golf courses, sailing regattas, bridge tourneys and horse-drawn carriages rounded out the appeal. From 1950 to 1980, Bermuda visitor arrivals burgeoned a staggering 855 per cent. Bermuda became synonymous with quality tourism. For all its old world charm, Bermuda knew how to move with the times. When transatlantic aviation became viable in the 1930s, Bermuda wooed American airline pioneer Juan Trippe into bringing his Boeing flying boats to the island. “It seems odd,” E.B. White wrote in The New Yorker in 1937, “that people should fly here at 250 mph in order to be able to ride a bicycle”. After World War II, Bermuda converted itself into a summer holiday destination. Cruise ships were reluctantly welcomed; airline tourists stayed longer and spent more. But tourism competition was growing; other sunny places beckoned and Bermuda was becoming just another port of call. By the 1980s, Bermuda was a mature product. Tourism arrivals hit an all-time peak in 1986 at 631,000 — an astonishing ten visitors for every Bermudian. But jetliners could now deposit tourists as easily in the Seychelles as they could in Bermuda. Shrewdly, Bermudians looked to offshore businesses like reinsurance to reorient their economy. But the old charm of a Bermuda holiday lingered. New niches — eco-tourism, the PGA’s Grand Slam, a winter music festival — have been developed. And so the Americans keep coming.

heritage “It’s close by,” New York Mayor Michael Bloomberg, himself a Tucker’s Towner has said. “There’s good golf, people are nice, and it’s a multiracial society.” Mark Twain would still be pleased. In “Bermooda”, as he drawled it, “the joy of it never stales”. n A longer version of this article appears in ‘Four Centuries of Friendship’ a National Museum of Bermuda (Bermuda Maritime Museum Press) book available at stores islandwide and at www.bmm.bm

Photo courtesy of the National Museum of Bermuda

Mark Twain, pictured in Bermuda around the turn of the century. ‘You go to Heaven if you want to,’ he wrote, ‘I’d rather stay here’.

bermuda.com guide 27

our ambassadors

Photo by Sirkka Huish

Welcome to Bermuda: Jay Correia pours a classic rum swizzle cocktail.

Let your fun begin with Jay at the Swizzle Inn By SiRKKA HUISH | The iconic Swizzle Inn is the first port of call for many

visitors and making a good first impression has become second nature to its cheerful owner, Jay Correia. Located just over the bridge from the airport, the pub is a popular spot for cheery welcomes and, when vacations are coming to an end, poignant farewells. Jay, 47, is always ready with a smile: “I’m a people person and restaurants are like a stage to me,” he says. “It’s the industry I’ve always wanted to be in; it’s what I enjoy, it’s what I feel comfortable doing.” He’s a hands-on boss who can often be seen behind the bar, waiting on tables or chatting to customers. “I’m more than happy to answer questions and tell people about Bermuda — it’s part of the job.” 28 bermuda.com guide

our ambassadors

Bermudians christen boats with rum. His friendly approach helps explains the pub’s success. In 2006 a sister eatery, The Swizzle South Shore, opened on South Road in Warwick, close to our most spectacular beaches. The brand name comes from the ‘rum swizzle’, a refreshing but deceptively powerful cocktail. Hence the pub’s unofficial motto, ‘swizzle in, stagger out’. (If you do indulge, leave the scooter at the hotel — there’s a bus stop right outside the pub). Both islanders and visitors have been enjoying the Swizzle Inn’s hospitality for many years and part of the building dates back to the 16th century. It became a pub in 1932 and the restaurant was added in 1972. Walls are adorned with the business cards of visitors from all over the world, testament to the pub’s laid-back atmosphere. Jay took the helm when dad John retired in 1990. It had been his late father’s dream to run his own business and he was happy to follow in his footsteps. Jay grew up “living and breathing the business” and started washing pots and waiting on tables aged 12. “When I was growing up it was a quiet country pub,” he recalls, “it was a real mom and pop operation. The whole of Bermuda was much quieter.” Mom Jackie still works alongside him and you might also spot Jay’s wife Susan and their children; Riley, 12, and Zachary, 7, helping out. In his free time, Jay loves spending time with his family, playing golf and watching football — he’s a big Chelsea fan. He also has ambitions to “expand the Swizzle name overseas” by opening branches in the U.S., Canada or the U.K. He knows he has his work cut out in to-

Jay’s top tips Best restaurant: For a family dinner, LaTrattoria (Hamilton) or Rustico (Flatts Village) for good atmosphere and choices for the kids. For a more upscale experience, Port-o-Call and for sushi, Yashi (both in Hamilton) Night-out: Other than a great night of live entertainment at the Swizzle Inn, try the bars on Front Street Drink: Rum Swizzle has to be tried at least once. Also try the ‘Pink Sand’ frozen drink invented by my waitress Jackie — there’s lots of rum in it Beach: John Smith’s Bay (Smith’s Parish) — small but beautiful Tourist attraction: The Crystal Caves; a great family day out Under-rated spots: Tom Moore’s Jungle (Hamilton Parish) and Spittal Pond (Smith’s Parish) are awesome places to walk around and enjoy natural beauty

day’s tough economic climate but remains optimistic. “I’m very happy the business has grown year after year,” he says. “Things are on the way up — after all, we’ve got a beautiful island and Bermudians are so friendly.” n bermuda.com guide 29

feature

Photo by Kageaki Smith

The 270-seat Liberty Theatre in Hamilton oozes old-fashioned charm.

Enjoy a night at the movies By LEANNE McGRATH | Bermuda may be small but it’s packed with movie

fans and a trip to the cinema is one of the most popular pastimes for islanders. It’s also ideal for visitors who want to add variety to their evenings out or take the kids to a matineé on those rare occasions when the sun doesn’t shine. We have four theatres — one each in the west and east end and two in the city of Hamilton. Unlike multiplexes in big cities, our cinemas have one screen each and usually offer just one movie at a time. But they boast extra sound effects unique to Bermuda — islanders frequently talk to, and argue with, characters on screen. That might sound irritating but it grows on you, especially when the distinctively dry Bermudian of sense of humour is at play. 30 bermuda.com guide

feature

A theatre boycott helped end segregation. In town you will find Speciality Cinema and Grill, a theatre and restaurant in one. Located on Church Street across from City Hall, it was the island’s first high definition cinema and the first to have 3D. The 180-seat theatre is run by Shandon Easton and his wife Giovanna, whose family own the award-winning Speciality Inn in Smith’s. A mini-branch of the restaurant is located in the theatre’s foyer, where you can enjoy pizza, sandwiches, salads and sushi as well as popcorn and candy. Tickets are usually $10 for adults, $8 for children (more for 3D screenings. Also in Hamilton is Liberty Theatre, a 270-seat cinema in Union Plaza near Court Street, owned by the Bermuda Industrial Union. It oozes old-fashioned charm but offers state-of-art digital sound and 3D. Tickets are usually $11 for adults, $9 for children. In the east end near the airport is Southside Cinema, on the former U.S.

military base in St. David’s. It’s our largest theatre with 425 seats but also its most dated in terms of technology — it only acquired 3D towards the end of 2009. To reach it from Hamilton, take bus numbers 1, 3, 10 or 11 to Ferry Reach or St. George’s then catch the number 6. Tickets are usually $12 for adults, $10 for children. Southside does not take credit cards, so you will need cash. At the opposite end of the island is Neptune Cinema in Dockyard. Housed in the former Cooperage building, this small theatre — it has just 118 seats — has kept renovations to its 19th century home to a minimum. Tickets are usually $11 for adults and $9 for children. To get there from Hamilton, catch a number 7 or 8 bus or the ferry. For more information about screenings and tickets, tel: Speciality 292-2135 (www.littletheatre.bm); Liberty/Neptune 292-7296 (www.libertytheatre.bm); Southside 297-2821. n

Photo by Kageaki Smith

You won’t go hungry at the Speciality Cinema and Grill in the city of Hamilton.

bermuda.com guide 31

Your personal invitation to

There are very few places in the world where a town has survived and functioned essentially unchanged through 400 years to the present. There is only one in the New World. This is The Towne of St. George in Bermuda. For all that Bermuda is so noticeably a ‘Different World’ than America our roots are tightly intertwined. In 1609 the ship ‘Sea Venture’ grounded just off St.George in a storm. She was on her way to Jamestown — then a St.Peter’s. The Oldest fledgling settlement — and carried the new Governor of Virginia. functioning Anglican Church in the New These were the first Bermuda residents as it turned out. World. They spent the next year building a new ship to complete their journey. The Deliverance then proceeded on, laden with and food to sail the Chesapeake toand Jamestown Community survivors of St.George Extends this up invitation to our visitors friends to just in own for a day. Community support by the following St.George’s businesses: time to save the settlement from starvation. This is just a glimpse into the profound historical importance of St.George to our American cousins. The relationship continued through the era of the Declaration Deliverance.Built of Independance and later the tragedy of the Civil from scratch by the St.,- the finest War actually continues to this day. shipwreck survivors Robertson’s so much more thanand a ystal and Gifts Churchill’s on York St.Could Brandy Drug Store Prices. and Cigars be perspective anywhere else. From a historical what makes would be the saviour of Jamestown in 1610. St.George so unique is that nearly every building 11 5 3 is original. These are not reconstructions in a theme village, the town The Tucker is genuine in every respect. The 20 plus major buildings protected by House. Nathanial the Bermuuda National Trust in St.George, along with the town’s desTucker’s part in the Gunpowder Plot is ignation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and it’s close relationships Blackbeard’s at Achilles Bay: all. Tranquil, Griffin’s Restaurant at the St.Georges not well knowwn. Best Sunset; Best Seafood ! tails, Dinner Club overlooking the Town. Perfect withforJamestown and Colonial Williamsburg all attest to how rare and Lunch, Fabulous for Dinner rn by valuable it is. This is the oldest continuously working settlement in the new world.

Kinder, Gentler Time.

Shopping & Dining Complex on Water Street. Unhurried, (441) 297-2303

Unspoiled,

and souvenirs & ree Tasting !

32 bermuda.com guide Uncommon 6

2Uncommon

The finest in jewellery,

S OMERS W HARF 7

Unspoiled

Casual Clothing on York St.at the Square and tickets for the Mini Train Tour.

Shopping & Dining Complex on Water Street.

Flowers to Visitors too !

Glass Cake

1 Unhurried

Delivering Beautiful Flowers to Bermuda and to our Visitors too !

Pier Vu Fashions figurines, crystal and

gifts at guaranteed 4 duty free prices

(441)

Fine Art and much more at the Somers Wharf 295-1729 Complex

Belinda Tartaglia Gallery

(441) 297-1929

A 400 year Journey back to

A Kinder, Gentler Time.

A visit to St. George should start at the World Heritage Center where a diorama and short film will set the stage. Self Guided walking tour maps are available there. After that we recommend The Tucker House Museum, The The World Heritage Globe Hotel (and Confederate Museum) and Center. At Penno’s The Globe Hotel. A neighboring St. Peter’s church. Wharf at the Western center of intrigue and end of Water Street — Around noon, keep an eye out in the high politics during the The best place to start Revolutionary and Civil Town Square where gossips are occasionally your visit. wars in America. ducked on the ‘Ducking Stool’. A photograph of a family member in the Public ‘Stocks’ is a must. The small but lovely Somers Garden Park is worth the short stroll if only because of it’s beautiful Traditional Bermuda The Stocks. Minor The Ducking Stool. Thrice offenses against the Moongate arch. A little further will take weekly at noon gossips are public morals were discouraged from their sinful you to the “Unfinished Church” and the punished by exposure to ways in the town square. “Gunpowder Cavern”, both of which have ridicule and tomatoes! A Free attraction. interesting stories attached and Bridge House - the home of a Governor of Virginia in the 1700’s. Nearby too is the Mitchell House, home to the St.George’s Historical Society Museum and the Olde Print Shoppe. Tuesdays are special in St.George. The St.George Historical Bridge House. home We welcome Holland America’s Veendam Society Museum and the to Governor Barrett of Print Shop. passengers as invited guests to the Town Virginia in the 1700’s

with special extended hours and activities and festivities on the square in the evening. Local vendors set up Market Night stalls and offer craftwork souvenirs and local specialty foods. Music or performing arts or dance shows Market Night. an eclectic cross of European Promenade are usually scheduled. While not so organand Country Fair. ised as the ‘Promenade’ evenings common in the Mediterranean this is also a night when Bermudians turn out simply to socialise and see and be seen. Come down, stroll around, eat a fish cake or a hot dog, sit on a bench or a wall and Bermuda Gombeys. simply relax. If buildings could talk you would Street Dancing with hear 400 years of whispers. History and Spice !

Visiting St. George today can start with a morning taxi tour ending in the town in time for lunch or a fabulous ferry ride from Hamilton or the Dockyard. The journey by the famous Pink Bermuda Buses is just as scenic. Lunch can be an early snack at Temptations or the Salad Nicoise at the White Horse Tavern or the Bermuda Fish Sandwich overlooking the Harbour from the Dockside Tavernby-the-Sea. The World Heritage Center can provide walking tour maps from Pilot Darrell’s House to the old Print Shop to Somers Gardens or you can tour the forts from St. Catherine’s to Gates’. Like Bermuda, St. George is an explorer’s delight not a packaged experience. Curiosity and interest are the only necessary equipment for an interesting day. For those who would rather ride than walk, the Mini Train tour is an hour well spent. For the Aquatic among us, bring your snorkel gear and spend a few hours at the beach at Tobacco Bay Achilles Bay or St. Catherine’s Beach - refreshments available at Blackbeard’s Restaurant. Shopping is eclectic to say the least: Bermudas own Perfumery; Belinda Tartaglia’s Art Gallery; The National Trust Historic Bookshop; Vera P. Card for Duty Free Savings on Jewelry Figurines and Crystal; Churchill’s for cigars and brandy (and Dark-n-Stormy fixins); Robertson’s Drug store for the usual as well as very unusual confections, toys and children’s books; the Dockyard Glassblowing branch for beautiful Murano Glass and Bermuda Rum Cakes; or the Somers Wharf complex for a little bit of everything. When was the last time you gave her flowers only because the sun was shining? - The East End Flower Alley is your chance. After all that - Stay for the Evening - relax a while and ease into an alfresco dinner looking over beautiful St. George Harbour from Griffins at the St. Georges Club. A relaxed cab ride home is the perfect ending. Unhurried Unspoiled Uncommon.

Unhurried

Hand made Glass art and souvenirs & Bermuda Rum Cake Free Tasting!

By the SEA says it all. Tranquil, beautiful; Lunch, cocktails, dinner

The Tavern by the Sea

Dockside Glass & Rum Cake (441) 297-3809

The Unfinished Church. Originally planned as the Cathedral in the Capital. Victim of Political Intrigue.

The Towne of St. George

(441) 297-3305

Griffin’s Bistro

So much more than a Drug Store

(441) 297-1828

Perfect for lunch, fabulous for dinner (441) 297-4235

Blackbeard’s at Achilles Bay. Best sunset; best seafood!

Unspoiled

at the St. George’s Club overlooking the Town.

Uncommon 1

on York Street. Could brandy and cigars be anywhere else. (441) 297-1650

Belinda Tartaglia Gallery

Casual Clothing on York St. at the Square and tickets for the Mini Train Tour.

Fine art and much more at the Somers Wharf Complex

Pier Vu Fashions 3

(441) 297-1400

Written and designed by the businesses of St. George’s and on behalf of the entire community, who extend a warm invitation to visit our town for a day.

(441) 297-4299

(441) 297-0909

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Points of interest

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1-17 See St. George’s Map, page 34 18 Bermuda Institute of Ocean Sciences 19 L.F. Wade International Airport 20 Carter House 21 Great Head National Park 22 St. David’s Lighthouse 23-27 Bailey’s Bay — See page 38 28 Bermuda Railway Museum 29 Bermuda Aquarium, Museum and Zoo 30 Flatt’s Bridge 31 Devil’s Hole Aquarium 32 Spittal Pond 33 Verdmont 34 Palm Grove 35 Montpelier Arboretum 36 King Edward VII Hospital 37 Botanical Gardens 38 Camden 39 Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art

40 Waterville 41 Paget Marsh 42-55 See Hamilton Map, page 42 56 Fort Hamilton 57 Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute 58 Johnny Barnes Statue 59 Government House 60 Warwick Pond 61 Christ Church 62 Gibb’s Hill Lighthouse 63 Somerset Bridge 64 Scaur Hill Fort 65 Heydon Trust 66 St. James’ Church 67 Springfield Community Centre & Gilbert Nature Reserve 68 Somerset Village 69-75 See Dockyard Map, page 46 71 National Museum of Bermuda

see the sights

Let Johnny lead the way Using our maps

photo by kageaki smith

Good morning! The always-cheery Johnny Barnes, Bermuda’s goodwill ambassador.

He’s the ultimate ‘morning

It’s easy to find your way around Bermuda. There are four main arteries: South Road runs along the south shore, North Shore Road hugs the north shore, Middle Road runs through the centre of the island and Harbour Road follows the inner harbour across from Hamilton. Each road brings you into the city of Hamilton. Key attractions are numbered on our maps and described in the text. Use our large pullout map (between pages 32 & 33) for an island overview; for a map of St. George’s, see page 34, the city of Hamilton on 42, and Dockyard on 48. Also, ‘W’ at the end of a listing denotes ‘wheelchair accessible’.

person’ and a warm greeting from folk hero Johnny Barnes is the ideal way to start your sightseeing tour. Every weekday he’s at Crow Lane roundabout from 6am to 10am, showering city commuters with waves, blown kisses and a smile that could melt the heart of even the most jaded traveller. We begin our tour in the historic former capital, St. George’s. Wherever you go, don’t forget to greet all you meet: as Johnny reminds us each morning — it’s the Bermuda way!

Parishes In 1610, Admiral Sir George Somers, a survivor of the wreck of the Sea Venture (which carried our first settlers), returned to Bermuda to obtain food for the starving Virginia colony. By 1615 the Somers Island Company was developing Bermuda and exploiting her natural resources. The island was surveyed and what is now St. George’s Parish was set aside as public or company land. The remainder was divided into eight tribes or parishes, named after the principal shareholders in the Somers Island Company. These were, from east to west: Hamilton, Smith’s, Devonshire, Pembroke, Paget, Warwick, Southampton and Sandys. Along with St. George’s, they have become the nine parishes of Bermuda. bermuda.com guide 33

see the sights

Mark Twain: “I’d rather go to Bermuda.” 13 14

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ST. GEORGES’S HARBOUR

Penno’s Wharf

ST. GEORGE’S PARISH Bermuda’s oldest town, St. George’s, was settled in 1609-10 and became a World Heritage Site in 2000. It was our capital from 1612 until 1815, when Hamilton became the capital. 1-17 are on our detailed map above. 1 St. Peter’s Church, Duke of York St., is the oldest Anglican church in the New World still in use. Open Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm, Services Wed 7:30am, Sun 11:15am. Suggested donation of $5 per adult. Call ahead for group visits. Tel: 297-2459 2 Bermuda National Trust Museum at the Globe Hotel, corner Duke of York St & King’s Square. Built by Governor

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Samuel Day, circa 1700. The offices of the Confederate agent, Major Norman Walker, were housed here during the American Civil War (1861-1865). The museum highlights Bermuda’s American Civil War involvement along with a video presentation ‘Bermuda: Centre of the Atlantic’. Open Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat 10am-4pm. Tel: 236-6483 to confirm. Closed on Public Holidays. Admission: adults $5, children (6-18 years) $2. Gift Shop. *Combination tickets to all three museums $10 (#2 Bermuda National Trust Museum, #3 Tucker House, #33 Verdmont). 3 Tucker House, Water Street. Built in the 1750s. Henry Tucker, President of the Governor’s Council, moved here in 1775 and his family stayed until 1809. On view are

see the sights

Winter water temp. averages 68°F.

antique heirlooms from one of Bermuda’s oldest families and also a room furnished as a tribute to Joseph Rainey, the first black man to be seated in the U.S. House of Representatives. The cellar houses are a permanent archaeological exhibit. Open Tue, Wed, Thur 10am-2pm. Tel: 236-6483 to confirm. Admission: adults $5, children (6-18 years) $2. *Combination tickets to all three museums $10 (#2 National Trust Museum, #3 Tucker House, #33 Verdmont). 4 St. George’s Post Office, open Mon-Fri 8am-5pm. Tel: 297-1610 5 World Heritage Centre, at Penno’s Wharf in the Queen’s Warehouse, circa 1860. History is brought to life through the St. George’s Foundation’s restoration of this building. Enjoy the Orientation Exhibits Gallery, ‘A Gateway to Bermuda’. For opening hours Tel: 297 8043 or 297-5791. W (wheelchair accessible) 6 Stocks & Pillory and the Ducking Stool re-enactment at King’s Square. See the ‘gossiping wench’ get ducked in the harbour. Noon on Mon, Tue, Wed, Thurs & Saturdays. 7 Deliverance, a full-scale replica of the Bermuda-built barque, located across the bridge from King’s Square on Ordnance Island. For opening hours tel: 297-8043. 8 Town Hall, facing King’s Square, the

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Is she or isn’t she? A suspected gossiping wench is ducked into the water. See No.6, above.

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meeting place of the Corporation of St. George’s. Open 9am-4pm, Mon-Sat except holidays. W 9 State House, above and behind the Town Hall, one of the oldest stone buildings on the island, dating from 1620. Originally the seat of government, now a masonic lodge. 10 The Bermudian Heritage Museum, junction of York & Water streets, showcases accomplishments of black Bermudians. Open Tues-Fri, 10am-3 pm. Tel: 297-4126 11 St. George’s Historical Society Museum, Printery & Garden, Featherbed Alley. This historic house, a museum since 1922, features cedar furniture, paintings, and other local relics along with a replica of an early 15th-century Gutenberg press. Open Mon-Thur & Sat, 10am-4 pm. Adults $5, children $2. Tel: 297-0423 12 The Old Rectory, Broad Alley, behind St. Peter’s Church. Captain George Dew built this Bermuda cottage circa 1699. Architecturally it shows similarities to buildings of the same period in the U.S. State of Virginia. A private residence owned by the Bermuda National Trust. Exterior viewing only. Tel: 236-6483 13 Unfinished Church. Top of Duke of Kent St. This magnificent Gothic structure was meant to be a replacement for St. Peter’s Church. Started in the 1870s it was beset by financial difficulties, parish infighting and a damaging storm. It was abandoned on the eve of its completion. 14 Fort St. Catherine, off Barry Road. 19th century fort contains cannon, guns, military exhibits. Open Mon-Fri, 9:30am4pm. Adults $7, children 5 to 15, $3 (must be accompanied by an adult), seniors $5. Tel: 297-1920 W 15 Gates Fort dates from the early 17th century. Originally a small sea battery of three guns. Open during daylight hours. 16 Somers Garden, Duke of York Street. Admiral Sir George Somers was shipwrecked on a reef before settlement. When he died in Bermuda his heart was buried

see the sights

Bermuda’s annual rainfall is 56 inches. HAMILTON PARISH

Photo by Jamie MacMillan

Limestone wonderland: The Crystal Caves have been enchanting visitors for decades. See No.25, right.

here and his body was taken to England. Open daily 7:30am-4:30pm 17 The Bermuda Perfumery is located in historic Stewart Hall, 5 Queen Street. For more than 80 years, the Bermuda Perfumery has been creating and manufacturing perfumes and all are made on the premises. Take a free tour and sample unique fragrances. Open Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm. Tel: 293-0627 Refer to the large pullout map. 18 Bermuda Institute of Ocean Sciences, Ferry Reach. On Wednesdays at 10am, visit this world-renowned research station. Take a free tour of the laboratories, grounds and learn about ongoing projects. www.bios.edu Tel: 297-1880 19 L.F. Wade International Airport 20 Carter House. An historic old stone structure built by one of Bermuda’s first settlers around 1640. Admission $2. For opening hours Tel: 293-5960 21 Great Head National Park. At the end of Battery Road, St. David’s, lies a 20th century abandoned fortification surrounded by open spaces, plus a Lost at Sea Memorial. 22 St. David’s Lighthouse. Stands at the top of Lighthouse Hill Road. Open certain weekdays; for the Park Ranger, Tel: 2365902.

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Named after James Hamilton, second Marquis of Hamilton, an original member of Somers islands Company. Refer to the large pullout map. 23 After leaving the Causeway go up Blue Hole Hill to the junction of Wilkinson Ave & North Shore Rd. You are now in Bailey’s Bay. 24 Blue Hole Hill Park. Located just over the Causeway, the park joins Walsingham Nature Reserve and provides an excellent walking trail. 25 Crystal Caves, 8 Crystal Caves Rd, Hamilton Parish. Formed more than 30 million years ago, Crystal Cave Road was discovered in 1905 when 14-year-old Bernard Wilkinson stumbled upon a cave opening. He was later lowered down the 140-foot drop where he saw the magnificent crystal stalactites and stalagmites that surround a clear 55-foot deep lake. Tours 9:30am4:30pm year round. One cave, adults $20, children (under 13) $8, (under 5) free. Combination tickets, adults $27, children (under 13) $10, (under five) free. Last combination tour starts 3.45pm. Tel: 293-0640 26 Holy Trinity Church, Trinity Church Road. The Anglican Church of Hamilton Parish offers a scenic and tranquil respite from sightseeing. 27 Tom Moore’s Jungle, Bailey’s Bay. Woods surrounding Tom Moore’s Tavern are a must for nature lovers. The poet Tom Moore spent happy hours writing his verses here. Tours are available for groups via the Parks Dept., Tel: 236-5902 or 293-1785. 28 Bermuda Railway Museum and Curiosity Shop. Learn the full history of our long-defunct railway. The gift shop features antiques and artefacts. For opening hours Tel: 293-1774.

SMITH’S PARISH Named after one of the nine chief investors of the Somers Isles (Bermuda) Company, Sir Thomas Smith.

see the sights

Hamilton is Bermuda’s only city.

Refer to the large pullout map. 29 The Bermuda Aquarium, Museum

& Zoo boasts native fish, exotic reptiles, free-flying birds, and pink flamingos in a beautiful, colourful setting. Exhibits include ‘North Rock’, a 140,000-gallon  replica of a local living coral reef, and ‘Islands of Australasia’, the interactive ‘Discovery Cove’ and scenic ‘Coastal Walkway’. The Natural History Museum focuses on the island’s geology, native biodiversity and habitats. Open daily 9am-5pm. (last admission 4pm). Adults $10, children (5-12 years) $5. Tel: 293-2727 W 30 Flatts Bridge. Wander across to quaint Flatts Village with its magnificent views of the Inlet and Harrington Sound. 31 Devil’s Hole Aquarium, Harrington Sound Road: Bermuda’s oldest attraction features a natural aquarium where you can see a 75-year-old turtle and try to catch a large fish. Open daily. Adults $10, children under 12 $5, seniors $5. Tel. 293-2072 32 Spittal Pond, South Road, this 64-acre reserve is part of a necklace of wetlands along the south shore, providing a diversity of habitats and a wide variety of birds, especially during migration seasons. Owned by Bermuda National Trust and Government’s Parks Dept. Open daily dawn to dusk, admission free. Tel: 236-6483

Photo by KAgeaki Smith

This way, fellas! Turtles are among the many attractions at the Bermuda Aquarium, Museum and Zoo. See No. 29, above.

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33 Verdmont, corner of Collector’s Hill & Sayle Road. A National Trust museum built about 1710 in the Georgian style, Verdmont houses our finest collection of antique Bermuda cedar furniture, porcelain, portraits, children’s furniture and toys. A new exhibit highlights the people who lived at Verdmont. Open Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat 10am-4pm. Closed holidays. Adults $5, children (6-18 years) $2. *Combination tickets to all three museums $10 (#2 Bermuda National Trust Museum, #3 Tucker House, #33 Verdmont). Tel: 236-6483.

DEVONSHIRE PARISH Named after William Cavendish, 1st Earl of Devonshire. Refer to the large pullout map. 34 Palm Grove, South Road. Wellmanicured private estate has an unusual bas-relief ‘water map’ of Bermuda, an aviary and many varieties of palms. Open Mon-Thur 9am-5pm (closed holidays). 35 Montpelier Arboretum, Middle Road. A tranquil retreat featuring a wide range of island trees and plants.

PAGET PARISH Named after William Paget, 4th Baron Paget de Beaudesert. Refer to the large pullout map. 36 King Edward VII Memorial Hospital, Point Finger Road. See page 68. Tel: 2362345 37 Botanical Gardens, Berry Hill, Point Finger & South roads. Open daily sunrise to sunset. Enjoy hundreds of well-marked flowers, shrubs and trees. Admission free. On Tue, Wed & Fri mornings free tours at 10:30am, departing from the car park outside the entrance to the Visitors’ Centre, weather permitting. Tearoom & gift shop open Mon-Fri 9:30am-3:30pm & Sat 10am2pm. To confirm, Tel: 236-5291 38 Camden, South Road, in the grounds of the Botanical Gardens. Official residence of the Premier, used for official functions

A Royal Outing Join us in celebrating our 200th anniversary this year! Built by Royal decree to defend British superiority on the seas, the Royal Naval Dockyard is today a resplendent place of discovery. Within the walls of this nineteenth century fortress where troops once marched, today there are lawns, flower lined lanes and a quaint shopping mall. Where once all was war readiness, now exists an invitation to adventure. Here at Bermuda’s western-most point, where ships of war once dropped anchor, is an entertainment complex of shops, restaurants and attractions. Where ships were built is the Bermuda Clayworks. Where once were stored kegs of gun powder is the fascinating Bermuda Maritime Museum. Where once rang out the Cooper’s hammer

and forges burned is now the lively Frog & Onion Pub, the Neptune movie Cinema, Bermuda Arts Centre and Crafts Market featuring the works of local artisans and fine artists. The commanding Clocktower, built in 1857, formally the Naval store and office of the Captain-in-charge, is now an arcade of unique shops with everything from clothes to designer accessories, books to Bermuda prints and original artworks, fine jewellery to fine linens, china, crystal and gifts. Have a light lunch at Café Amici, or a memorable feast, indoors or out at the Bonefish Bar and Grill. Elsewhere in Dockyard, enjoy swimming with the dolphins or simply sit and enjoy their beauty, take part in guided walks or explore the underwater beauty while snorkeling at the Snorkel Park, board a pleasure craft

and experience deep sea scuba diving and Bermuda’s shipwrecks. What’s more, today’s Royal Naval Dockyard, true to tradition, still offers full marina facilities. Stroll along the docks and admire the ocean going yachts and visiting tall ships alongside the floating finger piers. Gaze at the Spirit of Bermuda and learn more about the Bermuda Sloop Foundation and its sail training programmes. By day light or moon light, there is so much to discover. Make time for an outing to the West End...Discover the Royal Naval Dockyard...Bermuda’s only Royal Outing!

w w w. t h e w e s t e n d . b m

ROYAL NAVAL DOCKYARD • 7 DAYS A WEEK • 361 DAYS A YEAR!

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57-58 Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute

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HAMILTON

see the sights Bermuda is 650 miles off Cape Hatteras.

See

Explore two ﬂoors of interactive exhibits

Learn

Survive

about cutting edge marine technology

a simulated shark attack

Unsolved

Bermuda’s greatest mystery, the missing Tucker Cross

See

the

TITANIC

then and now

Discover

one of the world’s largest shell collections

BUEI BERMUDA UNDERWATER EXPLORATION INSTITUTE

Located near Hamilton, on East Broadway. Bus Routes 1,3,7,& 8. Open 7 days a week. info@buei.org • www.buei.org 441.292.7219

Great for all ages!

see the sights

We have no streams or rivers.

only. Open Tues & Fri noon-2pm, weather permitting. 39 Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art Permanent collection includes Bermuda inspired work by Winslow Homer and Georgia O’Keeffe, plus changing exhibits. Open Mon-Sat 10am-4pm, closed public holidays. Adults $5, children under 12 free. Tel: 236-2950 W 40 Waterville. An elegant house, built circa 1725, now the HQ of the National Trust. See the Bermuda Rose Society’s showcase garden and the Mary-Jean Mitchell Green Memorial Garden & Gazebo. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, admission free. Tel: 236-6483 41 Paget Marsh and Boardwalk, Paget Parish. Lush 25-acre nature reserve, a joint project of the Bermuda National Trust & Bermuda Audubon Society. The pond and marsh attract many birds. Open daily, daylight hours, free. Tel: 236-6483

PEMBROKE PARISH Home of our capital city of Hamilton since

Located at The Bermuda Maritime Museum in the Royal Naval Dockyard. Call 441.234.4464 or visit dolphinquest.com to make a reservation. Bermuda • Hawaii • Oahu A portion of the proceeds from Dolphin Quest supports vital marine education, conservation and research.

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1815. Refer to large pullout map and see our detailed City Map on page 42. 42 Barr’s Bay Park, on Hamilton Harbour beside the Royal Bermuda Yacht Club on Pitt’s Bay Road. Sit in the sun and watch the boats sail by. W 43 Point Pleasant Park by the waterfront, Albuoys Point, next to the Ferry Terminal. Relax on a bench, bring a picnic lunch. W 44 The Birdcage, a photogenic traffic kiosk at the corner of Front & Queen streets. 45 Perot Post Office, Queen Street. An architectural gem and a handy spot to buy stamps, transport passes, tickets and tokens. Credit cards accepted. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm W 46 Bermuda National Public Library & Historical Society Museum, Queen Street. Set in the gardens of Par-la-Ville Park. Library open Mon-Thurs 8:30am-7pm (July & Aug until 6pm), Fri 10am-5pm, Sat 9am5pm, Sun 1pm-5pm (closed Sun in July and Aug). Tel: 295-2905. Museum open 10am2pm Mon-Fri (May–Oct); 10:30am–1pm Mon, Tues, Wed, Fri (Nov–April) closed holidays. Free. Tel: 295-2487 W 47 City Hall, 17 Church Street, one of Hamilton’s most beautiful public buildings. Houses City Hall Theatre, the Mayor’s Parlour and Corporation of Hamilton offices and the Bermuda National Gallery (tel: 295-9428), featuring both historic and contemporary local and international art. Open Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat 10am-2pm, closed holidays. Guided tours Thursdays, 10:30am. Free. Also home to the Bermuda Society of Arts Gallery, which hosts rotating exhibitions. Open Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat 10am-2pm, closed holidays. Free. Tel: 292-3824 W 48 Central Bus Terminal, Washington Street, close to City Hall. All routes serving Hamilton arrive and leave from here. See page 67 49 Par-la-Ville Park, Queen Street, Hamilton. A haven for relaxation in the middle of

see the sights

Bermuda’s capital city, Hamilton, is

our bustling city. 50 Victoria Park, Cedar Avenue. Lovely park created in the 1880s to commemorate the Golden Jubilee of Queen Victoria. 51 Anglican Cathedral, Church Street, a neo-Gothic city landmark. Open 7:30am5pm. The cathedral tower, with panoramic views of the city, is open 9am-4pm Mon-Fri. Audio tours $3, tower entry $3. Tel: 292-4033 W 52 General Post Office, corner of Parliament & Church streets. Open Mon-Fri 8am5pm, Sat 8am-noon W 53 Sessions House & Jubilee Clock Tower. The House of Assembly (our mini House of Commons) meets Fridays at 10am. Visitors are permitted in the gallery; dress appropriately. Tel: 292-7408. The Supreme Court is located on the lower floor of the Sessions House. Visitors are permitted. Tel: 292-1350 W 54 The Cabinet Building, Front and Parliament streets. Here the Senate (our upper house) meets Wednesdays at 10am. Visitors

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are permitted. Fronted by the Cenotaph on Front Street, a memorial to war veterans. Tel: 292-5501 55 Bermuda National Library Youth Division, 74 Church Street. Open Mon-Thurs & Sat 9am-5pm, Fri 10am-5pm. Tel: 295-0487 56 Fort Hamilton, approached by Victoria and King streets and Happy Valley Road. A restored fort, its moat is filled with native plants and shrubs. Spectacular views of the city and harbour. Open daily 9am-5pm. Free. W 57 The Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute (BUEI), a 10-minute walk from the city centre on East Broadway. Features two floors of interactive exhibits revealing the mysteries of the ocean. Experience deepsea exploration through the eyes of worldrenowned explorers including Bermuda’s own Teddy Tucker. See artefacts and treasure recovered from shipwrecks around Bermuda. Gift shop and waterside restaurant, The Harbourfront. Open Mon–Fri 9am-

antipode to Perth, Western Australia. 5pm, Sat & Sun 10am-5pm. Last admission 4pm. Members free, adults $12.50, seniors $10, children (7-16) $6, children (under 6) free. Tel: 297-7314 W 58 Johnny Barnes Statue. Just down the road from the BUEI, a life-size statue of our unofficial ambassador of goodwill, Johnny Barnes (see page 33), by sculptor Desmond Fountain. 59 Government House, North Shore Road & Langton Hill. The imposing residence of His Excellency the Governor.

WARWICK PARISH Centrally located with many beautiful beaches along the South Shore. Refer to the large pullout map. 60 Warwick Pond. Take a walk on the interpretive woodland nature trail in this nine-acre nature reserve, with Bermuda’s second largest freshwater pond. Open daylight hours. 61 Christ Church, historic Presbyterian Church of Scotland dating back to 1719, one of the oldest in the western hemisphere.

see the sights

65 Heydon Trust, 43 acres of meticulously preserved grounds, filled with indigenous plants. The tiny, exquisite chapel was built in the 1620s. Open daily, dawn till dusk, free. 66 St. James’ Church, the Anglican church of Somerset, has a graceful spire and imposing walkway. 67 Springfield Community Centre & Gilbert Nature Reserve, Somerset. This National Trust Property once comprised a small plantation. Springfield, the old mansion with buttery and slave quarters dates back to 1740. Five acres of walking trails. 68 Somerset Village overlooks charming Mangrove Bay. Stop for a meal or some shopping. 69 Enter the Royal Naval Dockyard through stone gates. This major attraction includes the National Museum of Bermuda, Clocktower Mall, Craft Market, the Bermuda Arts Centre and restaurants — all housed in restored naval buildings.

SOUTHAMPTON PARISH Boasts many beaches including the most popular, Horseshoe Bay Beach. Refer to the large pullout map. 62 Gibbs Hill Lighthouse provides panoramic views and there’s a restaurant, too, The Dining Room. Lighthouse open daily 9am-4:30pm. Adults $2.50, children (4 and under) free. Tel: 238-0524

SANDYS PARISH (Somerset) The western-most parish, made up of five islands. Refer to the large pullout map. 63 Somerset Bridge is the smallest drawbridge in the world; just wide enough to let the mast of a sailboat pass through. 64 Scaur Hill Fort, Somerset Road. Enjoy breathtaking views of the Great Sound and Ely’s Harbour. Open daily 7:30am-4pm, free. Grounds open 24 hours. Tel: 234-0908

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see the sights

Just wide enough for a mast, Somerset

Royal Naval Dockyard T Taxi

Dockyard Glassworks & Bermuda Rum Cake Company

Bermuda Clayworks

Snorkel Park Beach

Maritime Lane

Storehouse Lane

THE CAMBER

75 Clocktower Shopping Mall

69 Watersports Centre

Victualling Yard

Dockyard

DOCKYARD GATE

Cloc ktow er P arad e

Bermuda Arts Centre

Camber Road

THE KEEP

Bermuda Craft Market

Commissioner’s House

National Museum of Bermuda

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Visitor Information Centre

Cruise Ship Terminal

KING’S WHARF

Visitor Information Centre

70 Dockyard Visitor Information Centre is near the fast ferry dock. Open daily, 9am5pm. Tel: 799-4842 71 The National Museum of Bermuda includes the Commissioner’s House, which exhibits our rich nautical history and

Photo by Kageaki Smith

The splendid Clocktower Mall, Dockyard.

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HERITAGE WHARF

extensive artefact collections. Open daily, 9:30am-5pm, last admission 4pm. Adults $10, senior citizens $8 and children (5-15) $5, under 5 free, if accompanied by an adult. Tel: 234-1418 72 Dolphin Quest Bermuda, Dockyard. Enjoy an extraordinary encounter with dolphins. Open 9:30am-4:30pm daily. Reservations required. www.dolphinquest.org  Tel: 234-4464 or toll free 800-248-3316 73 The Craft Market in the Old Cooperage features Bermuda cedar work, candle and jewellery making, pottery, banana dolls and many other crafts, with demonstrations by local artisans. Open daily 10am-5pm and until 8pm when cruise ships are in port. Tel: 234-3208 W 74 The Bermuda Arts Centre features studios housing various artists which change every few weeks. A shop offers an extensive range of locally made gifts, paintings, sculptures and a wide print selection. Open daily 10am-5pm (closed Good Friday & Christmas Day). Tel: 234-2809 W 75 Clocktower Shopping Mall boasts a delightful collection of boutiques and branch stores in a charming, covered mall. W

Bridge is the world’s smallest drawbridge.

see the sights

Bus Schedule

Route Fare Leaving Hamilton’s Central Number Zone Bus Terminal (time past the hour)

Airport Aquarium Belmont Hotel Botanical Gardens Caves (Crystal and Leamington) Dockyard Elbow Beach Gibbs Hill Lighthouse Grotto Bay Hotel Horseshoe Bay Beach Hospital Mangrove Bay (Somerset) National Museum of Bermuda Bermuda Perfumery John Smith’s Bay Beach Fairmont Southampton Princess Hotel Town of St. George

1, 3, 10, 11 10 11 8 1, 2, 7 1, 3 7, 8 2, 7 7 1, 3, 10, 11 7 1, 2, 7 7, 8 7, 8 1, 3, 10, 11 1 7, 8 1, 3, 10, 11

14 00 3 00 3 00 3 00 14 14 00 3 00 3 00 14 00 3 00 3 00 14 00 14 00 14 00 3 3 00 14 00

15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 15 30 15 30

45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45

A great way to see

Bermuda and all its attractions

B E R M U D A

Public Transportation 26 Palmetto Road Devonshire DV 05 P.O. Box HM 443 Hamilton HM BX, Bermuda

Telephone: (441) 292-3851 Fax: (441) 292-9996 E-Mail: info@ptb.bm Internet: www.BermudaBuses.com

bermuda.com guide 49

sightseeing Our best historic sites By Lance Furbert | For an island of just 21 square miles, we pack in a lot of history. Bermuda’s superb historic sites and museums help tell our unique story but also help unravel the extraordinary saga of the development of English settlements in the New World. Here are some of our best historic sites. National Museum of Bermuda The largest collection of artifacts and weapons in Bermuda. Slave artifacts, gold bars, jewellery, silver coins, pottery, boats of all kinds and large muzzle loading guns can be seen here. Located at Dockyard. Open daily 9:30am–5pm (last admission 4pm). Tel: 234-1418

Carter House Built more than three centuries ago by the descendants of Christopher Carter, one of two crew members of the shipwrecked Sea Venture who remained in Bermuda when the survivors sailed for Virginia in 1610. Home to the St. David’s Island Historical Society Museum and its exhibitions of whaling, farming and many other aspects of local history and culture. Southside, St. David’s. For opening times, Tel: 293-5960

Bermudian Heritage Museum Located in the Samaritan Lodge Building in St. George’s and part of the African Diaspora Heritage Trail. Exhibits mark the accomplishments of black people in Bermuda, the story of the slave ship Enterprise

50 bermuda.com guide

Photo by Kageaki Smith

The magnificently restored Commissioner’s House at the National Museum of Bermuda houses some of our most treasured artifacts.

and a history of the Friendly Societies. Open Tue-Fri, 10am-3pm. Tel: 297-4126

National Trust Museum The Globe Hotel on the northwest corner of King’s Square in St. George’s was bult in 1700 by Governor Samuel Day as our second Government House. It now houses the Bermuda National Trust Museum, which features the exhibit ‘Rogues & Runners — Bermuda and the American Civil War’. Open Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat, 10am-4pm. Tel: 236-6483

Verdmont A delightful Georgian style historic home at the top of Collector’s Hill, Smith’s Parish. A superb collection of antique Bermuda cedar and mahogany furniture plus an exhibit detailing the history of the house and surrounding farmland. Open Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat, 10am-4pm Tel: 236-6483

Bermuda Historical Society Museum Located in Par-la-Ville Park, Hamilton, it was the home of Bermuda’s famous postmaster William Bennet Perot. Exhibits include

what’s on sightseeing

Slavery was abolished in 1834. models of ships associated with Bermuda’s early history such as the Sea Venture, Deliverance and Patience; Sir George Somers’ sea chest and lodestone; plus a collection of early Bermudian coins and silver. Open Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm. Tel: 295-2487

azine, weapons of all types (from pistols to large muzzle loading guns), the British Crown Jewels in replica and an audiovisual presentation on Bermuda’s forts. Open Mon-Fri, 9:30am-4pm. Tel: 297-1920

Tucker House

Built by Governor Nathaniel Butler in 1620. It’s the oldest standing non-military English building in the New World. Surrounded by magnificent historic architecture and quaint streets and alleys — the most historic English neighbourhood in the New World. Just off King’s Square, St. George’s.

The State House

Tucker House, on Water Street, St. George’s, was the home of Henry Tucker, President of the Governor’s Council. Artifacts and portraits of the famous Tucker family include George Tucker of Virginia and Thomas Tudor Tucker, the longest serving treasurer of the U.S. Joseph Hayne Rainey, the first African American elected member of the U.S. House of Representatives, once ran a barber shop in the building. Open Tue, Wed, Thu, 10am2pm. Tel: 236-6483

St. Peter’s Church

The oldest Anglican Church site in continuous use in the western hemisphere. The first church on the site was built by Governor Richard Moore in 1612 and there are many Fort St. Catherine ancient artifacts inside. Some headstones Overlooks Gate’s Bay, St. George’s, the in the churchyard date back more than 300 landing place of the Sea Venture castyears. Duke Of York Street, St. George’s. Bermuda.com 1/2 ad:Layout 10:4310am-4pm. AM Page 1 aways in 1609. Features dioramas that 2 3/1/10 Open Mon-Sat, Services Wed highlight our early history, a restored mag7:30am, Sun 11:15am. Tel: 297-2459 n

National Treasure Bermuda Maritime Museum is now the NATIONAL MUSEUM OF BERMUDA, home to 500 years of Island culture and history. Explore exciting exhibits in our historic military buildings— and watch for many more as we grow!

Royal Naval Dockyard, Sandys Tel. 441-234-1418 • www.bmm.bm Open every day 9:30am–5pm (last admission 4pm)

NATIONALMUSEUM BERMUDA OF

Incorporating BERMUDA MARITIME MUSEUM

bermuda.com guide 51

real estate The St. George’s Club

Photo by kageaki smith

The charming St. George’s Club, which offers timeshare opportunities.

Own a bit of ‘The Rock’ Many visitors, seduced by our subtropical climate, historic charm and pink sand beaches, return to Bermuda year after year. Americans in particular often seek to make the relationship a little more permanent, through timeshares or fractional ownership. As a non-Bermudian you are not permitted to buy property outright unless you have more than $5million to spend, so it’s a more affordable way to claim a small piece of ‘The Rock’. And it enables you to share your love of the island with friends and family for generations to come. Prices vary of course but you might get into the market at the $150,000 to $400,000 range. Check with a local realtor through our website, bermuda.com, for more information. Names that will come up include The Reefs Club, Tucker’s Point Club, Newstead Belmont Hill Golf Resort and Spa — and The St. George’s Club.

Are you dreaming of a Bermuda family holiday? Well, The St. George’s Club can make that dream an affordable reality. Overlooking the historic Town of St. George and the quaint harbour, its clusters of one-bedroom and two-bedroom cottages offer all the comforts of home. Fully equipped kitchens make home cooking possible – and an onsite grocery means shopping is close to hand. Don’t feel like cooking? Griffin’s Bistro in the main clubhouse is known for its excellent international cuisine, or dine at Blackbeard’s Hideout the beachside restaurant and bar. Three swimming pools, one heated and one with a pool bar are situated in beautifully manicured and spacious grounds. If you prefer the beach, the complimentary shuttle can take you to The Club’s secluded Achilles Bay. Facilities for the more energetic include three tennis courts, one lit for night play, and a fitness centre. The surrounding Golf Course is currently closed but is to be redesigned by Nick Faldo . Golf enthusiasts can also enjoy privileges at the challenging Riddell’s Bay Golf Course in Southampton. The bus stop is within close walking distance and the fast ferry to Dockyard and Hamilton is also nearby. You can also explore at your own pace by renting a scooter from the onsite cycle livery. The Club is an RCI Gold Crown Resort which allows members great exchange options at any of RCI’s nearly 4,000 worldwide resort hotels. New members will also be enrolled in The Club’s private travel and cruise programme. To learn more, call 297-1222 or visit www.stgeorgesclub.com n

52 bermuda.com guide

0410guidepg33_64_lr.indd 52

3/1/10 12:39 PM

The Riddell’s Bay

Golf &Country Club

Bermuda’s most historic golf course

HOLE YDS PAR HOLE YDS PAR 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

424 354 138 282 370 351 479 360 247

4 4 3 4 4 4 5 4 4

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

340 114 392 359 366 389 382 181 326

4 3 4 4 4 4 4 14 4

OUT 3,005 36

2,849 34

OUT 3,005 36 TOTAL 5,854 70

to reserve your time call 238-3225 or e-mail golf@riddellsbay.com

warwick bermuda | tel: (441) 238-1060 | www.riddellsbay.com

sports & activities

Photo by Jamie Macmillan

The superb golf course at Riddell’s Bay has been testing players for more than 100 years.

Enjoy the great outdoors By james Whittaker | If you’re the ourdoors type, you’ve chosen the right spot. There’s no shortage of opportunities for the active visitor. Here’s our quick guide to what’s out there.

n Golf Bermuda has more golf courses per square mile than any other country in the world. Some courses are private but many hotels can introduce their guests to these clubs and arrange tee times. See the next two pages.

n Tennis Most courts are attached to hotels but another option is to play at the government-run tennis stadium, which has both clay and hard courts. It’s on Marsh Folly Road, a 10-minute walk from the centre of Hamilton. Open 8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-7pm Sat-Sun and courts

Riddell’s Bay Golf & Country Club Located at the southern end of the island in Warwick, it holds the title of oldest course in Bermuda. Golfers who leave Riddell’s talk about the wonderful views, the shot-maker golf course, the beautiful gardens, the friendly service and sometimes even the golf balls left behind in the Great Sound. Playing Riddell’s is just one of those ‘must dos’ when in Bermuda. Tel: 238-3225 • golf@riddellsbay.com

are $10 an hour (double it under floodlights). Tel: 292-0105 to book a court (though they won’t reserve it more than two days in advance of your game).

n Water sports Whether it’s an exciting ride on a jet ski or a gentle paddle around our hidden coves on a kayak, you’ll want to get out — continues on page 58

bermuda.com guide 55

sports & activities

JFK fell off while riding his moped HOLE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

YDS 339 386 378 115 368 470 178 329 326

PAR 4 4 4 3 4 5 3 4 4

HOLE 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

YDS 329 172 533 344 350 436 385 167 412

PAR 4 3 5 4 4 4 4 3 4

OUT

2,829

OUT

2,971

TOTAL 6,017

BELMONT HILLS GOLF COURSE Overlooking Bermuda’s famous turquoise sea Belmont Hills Golf Club features Bermuda’s first ever championship golf course combined with a first class teaching facility. Belmont Hills Golf Club recently received the Bermuda Gold, Best of Bermuda Awards for the “best place to play a round of golf.” HOLE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

YDS 438 567 148 458 380 370 517 213 383

PAR 4 5 3 4 4 4 5 3 4

HOLE 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

YDS 350 443 383 235 393 412 235 507 410

PAR 4 4 4 3 4 4 3 5 4

OUT

3,474

3,368

OUT

3,474

TOTAL 6,842

PORT ROYAL GOLF COURSE Owned / Operated by the Bermuda Government

Port Royal is the longest course in Bermuda and offers a great challenge for all who play it. With its spectacular views of the ocean it is a course not to be missed by visitors. After a round of golf, relax at Port Royal’s 64º Restaurant and watch the sunset to round off a perfect day in paradise.

56 bermuda.com guide

on sports & what’s activities

on Burnt House Hill in 1953.

HOLE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

YDS 469 151 360 355 500 387 190 336 192

TOTAL 2,940

PAR 5 3 4 4 5 4 3 4 3 35

OCEAN VIEW GOLF COURSE Owned / Operated by the Bermuda Government

This superbly challenging course has proven to be as competitive as it is picturesque. The elevated, central location offers wide North Shore vistas. With 18 tee positions, you’ll want to add a second nine to your conquest of the first. Website: www.bermudagolf.bm

HOLE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

YDS 152 145 142 178 183 110 133 149 126

PAR 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3

HOLE 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

YDS 135 113 128 126 211 141 174 150 188

PAR 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3

OUT

1,318

1,366

OUT

1,318

TOTAL 2,684

FAIRMONT SOUTHAMPTON GOLF CLUB

Bermuda’s only 18 hole par 3 course was designed by Theodore G. Robinson and was rated four-star by Golf Digest’s best places to play. The average playing time is under three hours, with every iron in the bag being called into play over a hilly, panoramic ocean-view layout.

bermuda.com guide 57

sports & activities

The waters off Bermuda are home — from page 55

Baxter’s Reef Fishing

on the water.

‘Life on the ocean wave’ is guaranteed to be great fun with Capt. Baxter aboard his 32–foot Cape Islander Ellen B. Apply the catch and release method or take your catch home for supper! Ellen B is well equipped to accommodate the whole family, complete with ample awning on hot days and complimentary sodas. The captain, with more than 20 years experience on the spectacular Barrier Reef, will display his expertise and show even the ‘amateurs’ how to catch a fish! You may enjoy a half-day or a full-day fishing. Parties of up to 10 can be arranged. Capt. Baxter is always happy to oblige smaller parties by joining up with other small groups. Departing daily from Mangrove Bay public dock in Somerset. Tel: 234-2963 • Tel: 334-9722.

Blue Hole Watersports (tel: 293-2915) runs out of the Grotto Bay Hotel in the east and Fantasea Watersports (tel: 236-1300) at the 9Beaches resort in the west are one-stop shops for rentals. Kayaks, Boston Whalers, windsurfers and Hobie Cats are the most popular. For jet skis try KS Watersports (tel: 2384155) or the Fairmont Southampton (tel: 238-8000).

58 bermuda.com guide

n Diving Our coral reefs have been a graveyard for ships for centuries. From Civil War blockade-runners to a B-29 airplane, this is the wreck capital of the Atlantic and a mecca for scuba divers. See page 63 for more on shipwrecks plus dive operator listings. Beginners welcome.

for more than 650 species of fish. n Deep sea fishing With the deep ocean just offshore, Bermuda offers world class fishing. There are lots of pros ready to take you out — among them, Baxter’s Reef Fishing (tel: 234-2963). Visit www. bermuda.com for more listings.

n Cycling Our coastal roads and the route of the old railway trail are great for bikers. You can hire bicycles at Wheels (tel: 292-2245) and Oleander (tel: 236-5235), both have numerous outlets.

n Rock climbing Test your skills on the Rock Climbing Wall at the Olympic Club, Dundonald Street, Hamilton. Open daily (tel: 292-4095).

n Bowling For a rainy day or a family evening out,

on sports & what’s activities

Hartley’s Reef Safari Having some advantages over scuba diving and many over snorkeling, helmet diving is the safest and easiest way to explore the marine environment. The undersea walk was started by Bronson Hartley in the 1930s. Off Somerset, his son Gregory continues the tradition of training and taming fish in the wild. Hold Leroy the snapper or Barack the grouper and see Diana the angelfish swim through a hoop. The helmet works like a glass turned upside down. Your head stays totally dry. You can safely wear glasses or contact lenses. Just breathe, walk and have fun. Tel: 234-2861. www.hartleybermuda.com. hartley@logic.bm

try Warwick Lanes in Warwick (tel: 236-5290) or Southside Family Bowl (tel: 293-5906) in St David’s. n

bermuda.com guide 59

feature

Where ‘The Deep’ was filmed By LEANNE McGRATH | There’s

no denying Bermuda’s beauty — and her sunkissed shores have even caught the eye of Hollywood. A string of movies and TV shows have been filmed on the island, the most famous being 1977 blockbuster The Deep. Starring Nick Nolte, Jacqueline Bisset and Robert Shaw, the $9 million thriller is based on the novel by Jaws author Peter Benchley. The story follows David and Gail (Nolte and Bisset), who scuba dive to a wreck off Bermuda and find an old medallion and an ampule of morphine. Treasure hunter Romer Treece (Shaw) concludes a recent storm exposed the morphine — one of thousands sunk with war ship Goliath — and items from an older Spanish wreck. Meanwhile, a drug kingpin learns of their find and terrorizes them to get the ampules. The story is inspired by Bermudian treasure hunter Teddy Tucker, who befriended Benchley when he visited the island to write a story for National 60 bermuda.com guide

Star power: Nick Nolte and Jacqueline Bisset seen here in Bermuda during the filming of the hit movie The Deep.

Geographic. Tucker took him diving to the Constellation, which became Goliath. The ship, which sank in 1943, is one of Bermuda’s most popular dive sites and is home to octopus, barracuda and, of course, eel (see page 63). A monstrous moray attacking Nolte and Shaw is one of the movie’s best scenes and an imitation eel built for filming, nicknamed Percy by the crew, is now housed in the Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute (BUEI). The director of the attraction is Teddy

The fabled Tucker Cross inspired the treasure designed by Van Cleef and Arpels for The Deep. A replica can be viewed in the treasure room of the Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute.

Charlie Chaplin spent time in Bermuda. Tucker’s daughter Wendy, who was loaned Percy by Benchley. Eel aside, other memorable moments include Shaw’s lighthouse home blowing up. It was a replica of the one in St. David’s and built across from Ferry Reach, which is close to the Causeway — the starting point for The Deep’s nail-biting bike chase. Nolte and Bisset are pursued by thugs who run them off the road between the high stone walls of Blackwatch Pass. More action was shot at Southlands in Warwick Parish — notably Nolte’s fight with a thug on a beach elevator. Most underwater scenes were filmed in a million-gallon tank in Dockyard — the biggest saltwater tank in the western hemisphere. A wreck was built to scale for it and Teddy Tucker — a consultant on the film — even helped catch the marine life used to fill it. n

what’s on feature

Films and shows shot in BDA Crunch and Des (1955): This TV show focused on a duo who ran a chartered fishing boat. It was filmed at Darrell’s Island in the Great Sound. Bermuda Affair (1956): Friends fall out after one man has an affair with the other’s wife. The Admirable Crichton (1957): A wealthy lord, his family and servants are shipwrecked on a desert island. The Bermuda Depths (1978): A giant turtle and the spirit of a young girl threaten scientists studying the ocean, featuring Rocky star Carl Weathers. Bermuda Grace (1994): A U.S. private detective and an English policeman track a murderer and jewel thief. White Squall (1996): A Ridley Scott adventure, starring Jeff Bridges, about teenage boys on an ill-fated sailing voyage.

! See the artif acts from the wreck that inspired the ﬁlm

The ‘Constellation’

Discover the story behind it all

BUEI bermuda.com guide 61

shipwrecks

Gibb’s Hill Lighthouse was only the 37

34 39

Atlantic Ocean

43 44 1

Royal Naval Dockyard

Somerset Long Bay Mangrove

t in Po lty ish an rk mira p Spanish S Pa Ad se u Point Hoark P

Bay ’

GREAT SOUND

Hawkins Island

ac Be

25. Beaumaris Castle 26. Collector 27. Iristo 28. Elda 29. Taunton 30. Eagle 31. Manilla Wreck 32. Cristobal Colon 33. Curlew

y Ba

These old and more recent wrecks, scattered throughout the 200 square mile reef system that surrounds the island, are protected by law against any unauthorized interference. The more popular dive sites are easily accessed from the island by boat, with an average depth of between 30 17. Katherine 18. Pelinaion 19. Zovetto or Rita Zovetto 20. Sea Venture 21. Wychwood 22. Colonel William G. Ball 23. Richard P. Buck 24. Avenger

ng ay eB

Elb

62 bermuda.com guide

10. Minnie Breslauer 11. Pollockshields 12. Apollo 13. Kate 14. Grotto Bay Barges 15. Warwick 16. H.M.S. Cerberus

n Lo

There are some 400 wrecks to be found off Bermuda. The earliest date from the first quarter of the 16th century when the island became a landmark for Spanish ships sailing back to Spain from the New World.

Elbow Beach Coral Beach 7 6 Surfside Beach 9 8 Marley Beach oe

Bermuda’s shipwrecks

DEVONSHIR PARISH

Hungry Bay ap Gr

WARWICK PARISH sh rse Hoy Ba

Chu

ay rch B

i rw Wa y Ba

PAGET PARISH

Rockaway LITTLE SOUND

SOUTHAMPTON PARISH

1. Drydock 2. Ramona 3. H.M.S. Vixen 4. Minerva 5. Hunters Galley 6. Mari Celeste 7. Virginia Merchant 8. King 9. Hermes

CITY OF HAMILTON HAMILTON HARBOUR

Belmont

ey Whitnay B hale W t s We Bay

PEMBROKE PARISH

SANDYS PARISH

second cast iron lighthouse ever built. 31

Stories of the sea

Five must-visit Bermuda wrecks: 26

25 24 22 Toba cco B Achilles’ Bay ay Fort St. Catherine ST GEORGE’S 23 PARISH Martello Tower Coney Island Airport

Bailey's Bay

Crystal Caves

Castle Island Tucker's Town

Smiths Parish 16 Sm hn Jo ay B

and 50 feet. Listed here are some of the better known wrecks, highlighted in the map above. Note that some wrecks are known by two, three or even four different names. For further information, visit the scuba diving pages on our website: www.bermuda.com. 34. Madiana 35. Alert 36. San Pedro 37. Caraquet 38. Mark Antonio 39. Montana 40. Lartington 41. Constellation 42. Santa Ana 43. L’Herminie

n The Pelinaion (18) – This Greek steamer became a victim of WWII. The British had blacked out St. David’s lighthouse to stop the Germans from spying on Bermuda. But the ship crashed on the reef, where it still lies scattered. n The Cristobel Colon (32) — This Spanish luxury liner is the biggest of Bermuda’s wrecks at 499ft long. Its remains are spread across the North Shore reef. n The Hermes (9) – Extremely popular among divers as it is one of the few wrecks in Bermuda that remains fully intact. It lies in 80 foot of water off the South Shore. n The Constellation (41) – Jaws author Peter Benchley based his follow-up novel ‘The Deep’ around this wreck (see pages 60 & 61), which sank on the South Shore carrying a cargo of morphine and whisky to Venezuela during WWII.

's ith

Fort Popple rwate r Bea ch Turt 19 le Ba y

Clea

CASTLE HARBOUR Nonsuch Island

Shell y HARRINGTON B Beaacy SOUND h Flatts Bridge Devil's Hole

SMITH’S PARISH

Gate s’ Ba y Town of St. Georges Gates 21 Fort Smith’s 20 Island Fort Cunningham

HAMILTON PARISH

HIRE H

shipwrecks

44. Frenchman 45. Lord Amherst 46. Darlington 47. Mussel 48. San Antonio 49. Blanch King 50. Caesar 51. Airplane 52. North Carolina 53. Triton Ferry

n The H.M.S. Vixen (3) – If you don’t want to take on the challenge of scuba diving, the Vixen lies half submerged in shallow waters off Daniel’s Head, Somerset, and is easily accessible by snorkellers.

Local dive operators Blue Water Divers, Robinson’s Marina, Somerset, tel: 234-1034 & Elbow Beach Hotel 232-2909 www.divebermuda.com Fantasea Bermuda, Albuoy’s Point, Hamilton, tel: 236-1300 info@fantasea.bm Triangle Diving, Grotto Bay, near the airport, tel: 293-7319 www.trianglediving.com

Don’t want to get wet? Visit the Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute in Hamilton, the National Museum of Bermuda in Dockyard and the replica of the Deliverance in St. George’s.

bermuda.com guide 63

wildlife

Nothing to fear from our bugs, lizards or frogs By ANDREW DOBSON | Like

most other things in Bermuda — groceries, cars, shipwrecked settlers — our wildlife was largely imported, either accidentally or on purpose. There are hundreds of feral cats and feral chickens – but no feral dogs. We have a few rats, of course, but no snakes. Spiders are abundant but generally harmless. The occasional poisonous spider arrives on imported lumber but they rarely bother people. Mosquitoes aren’t a problem and there are few bugs to worry about. To find the mildly venomous nineinch centipede, you would have to turn over a lot of rocks in St. David’s. Try to avoid the Portuguese mano-war, a purple jellyfish that sports long tentacles and causes a painful sting. Sharks are rare in Bermuda waters and there are no records of Photo by Tony McWilliam

Some of our lizards are great climbers and change colour from dark brown to vivid green and striking blue.

shark attacks. One of our most intriguing creatures is the common whistling frog. Their ‘gleep-gleep’ chorus is

64 bermuda.com guide

The cahow is our national bird. particularly vigorous after rainfall on warm evenings and you’ll be amazed that a frog little bigger than your thumbnail can be so audible. Introduced from Jamaica in 1886, they hang out among vegetation in house gardens and parks. But it’s very difficult to spot them, even with a flashlight, and they have the unhelpful habit of falling silent as you get close. Whether you see them or not, their sub-tropical symphony will linger long in your memories of our island. Easier to spot on wet evenings are enormous cane toads, introduced to control cockroaches. Birds are plentiful; about 375 species have been recorded in Bermuda and 20 are resident. Many migrate through the island and more than 100 species are present during the winter, including a variety of ducks, herons and egrets. The graceful white-tailed tropicbird, known locally as the ‘longtail’ is eagerly awaited as the harbinger of spring when it returns to breed along the coastline. You might also see eastern bluebirds but what everyone asks about is ‘the noisy, bright yellow bird’ – the great kiskadee. They were brought in to control the lizard population; anolis lizards, however, are still abundant. Sadly, you are unlikely to see the endemic skink (rock lizard) whose numbers are so low that it is mainly confined to offshore islands. Nor are you likely to see Bermuda’s national bird, the cahow or Bermuda petrel. A marvellous natural history story, it was thought extinct shortly after the arrival of the first settlers, who gratefully ate them! Following the discovery of a few breeding pairs in

wildlife

Photo by Tony McWilliam

The great kiskadee is found islandwide.

Photo by Tony McWilliam

Heard but not easily seen — the tiny and ubiquitous whistling tree frog.

1951, they’re making a real comeback. It comes to its breeding burrows at night, so the only chance of catching a glimpse is by scanning the ocean off Cooper’s Island at dusk. For more, visit www.audubon.bm n bermuda.com guide 65

practicalities

Photo by Tony McWilliam

Flying in and out of Bermuda’s a breeze — and affords great views, too.

What you need to know Your concierge might know an awful lot, but you can’t take him to the beach. Here’s a handy list of things you ought to know. Information provided here is subject to change. For the latest, visit our website: www.bermuda.com.

n Airlines Air Canada Reservations: Tel: 1-888-247-2262. Flight Info: Tel: 293-1777. American Airlines Tel: 1-800-433-7300. British Airways Reservations: Tel: 1-800-247-9297. Airport customer service: Tel: 293-1944. Continental Airlines Reservations: Tel: 1-800-231-0856. Flight Info: Tel: 293-3092. Delta Airlines Reservations: Tel: 1-800-221-1212.

66 bermuda.com guide

Flight Info: Tel: 293-1024. JETBLUE Tel: 1-800-JETBLUE (538-2583). U.S. Airways Reservations: Tel: 1-800-622-1015. Flight Info: Tel: 293-3073. USA 3000 Tel: 1-877-872-3000. WestJet Tel: 1-888-WESTJET (937-8538).

n Airport L.F. Wade International Airport (tel: 2932470) is located in St. George’s at the east end of the island. Allow 30 minutes from the city of Hamilton by taxi. Check-in two hours before departure.

n Banks Normally open from 9am to 4pm, Mon-Fri. There are many ATMs across the island.

Shark oil barometers forecast weather.

practicalities

als and additional visa pages, which may be dropped off. For details, visit the ConsulAll bus routes serving Hamilton arrive ate’s website: http://hamilton.usconsulate. and leave the Bus Terminal on Washinggov. For after-hours life or death emergenton Street. (Refer to number 48 on the cies for American citizens only, contact the Hamilton map on page 42). See page 49 for duty officer at (441) 335-3828. Honorary schedule. Consuls for other countries are also repCash fares require exact change and resented in Bermuda. See the telephone dollar bills are not accepted. Adult cash directory for listings. fare is $3 up to 3 zones, $4.50 for longer journeys. Tokens are $2.50 for 3 zone trips n Communications and $4 for longer trips. Transportation The sophistication of Bermuda’s telecompasses are available: one-day pass $12, munications rivals U.S. and European countwo days $20, three days $28, four days terparts. Our well-developed infrastructure $35, seven days $45 or one month, $55. provides modern telephone, fax, internet, For children (aged 5-16) cash fare is $2 and cellular and cellular-roaming services. transportation passes range from $6 per day up to $22.50 for n Country seven days. Children Codes under five ride free. U.S. & Canada — Tokens, tickets and dial 1 plus area code passes can be used plus no. on both buses or U.K. — ferries and can be dial 011 plus 44 plus bought at ferry terarea code plus no. minals, the central Caribbean — bus terminal, hotels, dial 1 plus area code post offices and Photo by Jamie Macmillan plus seven digits. Visitor Information The bus terminal is next to City Hall, Hamilton. Centres. n Currency & Credit Cards Tel: 292-3851 • info@ptb.bm The Bermuda dollar is equal in value to the U.S. dollar; both are legal tender here. Travn Business Hours eller’s cheques and credit cards are accepted Stores normally open from 9am to 5pm at most shops, restaurants and hotels. Monday to Saturday. Many grocery stores open 1-5pm on Sunday, most other stores n Dress Code are closed on Sundays. The dress code in Bermuda is conservative. Bathing suits and bare chests are not n Cars acceptable, except at beaches and pools. There are no car rentals available in BerCasual wear is acceptable in restaurants at muda but you can rent scooters and pedal lunchtime, but some upscale restaurants bikes. require men to wear a jacket in the evening. Check the dress requirements when making n Consulate reservations. The U.S. Consulate is located on Crown Hill, 16 Middle Road, Devonshire, tel: 295-1342. n Emergency Open Mon to Fri 8am - 4:30pm. Consular Call 911 and specify whether you need services are provided on an appointment police, the fire service or an ambulance. basis only, except for adult passport renewbermuda.com guide 67

n Buses

practicalities

Bermudians use lemon grass steeped

n Etiquette It is customary to greet islanders with a ‘good morning’, ‘good afternoon’ or ‘good evening’ — Bermuda prides itself on its civility.

n Ferries The best way to get around; ferries are usually quicker than the buses and the views are better. All ferries depart from the ferry terminal on Front Street, Hamilton. Regular ferries cross Hamilton Harbour and faster catamaran ferries visit Somerset, Dockyard and St. George’s. You can buy tickets at various locations including post offices and hotels. Scooters are allowed on some routes. See pages 17 & 18 for ferry schedule.

n Health No inoculations are required for Bermuda. There are no poisonous insects or mammals (see pages 64 & 65) but visitors should be wary of the Portuguese man-of-war jellyfish that carries a painful sting. Guard against sunstroke and sunburn with hats, sunblock and plenty of water. Our climate is quite kind

to hay fever sufferers as pollens are blown out to sea.

n Hospital King Edward VII Memorial Hospital (tel: 236-2345) is a large, first-rate facility owned and operated by the Bermuda Government and located on Point Finger Road in Paget Parish. An associate of the American Hospital Association. Airlifts can be arranged to the U.S. or Canada.

n Internet Most hotels and many guest houses provide internet access. Also, there are a handful of locations where you can go online in the city of Hamilton including the Bermuda Library on Queen Street, where access is free. Public internet access is also available in St. George’s and Dockyard.

n Mail The General Post Office is located at 56 Church Street Hamilton (tel: 297-7893) and there are 12 sub-offices islandwide. Airmail leaves and arrives daily. Postal rates for

Photo by Kageaki Smith

First rate care is available at King Edward VII Memorial Hospital, just east of Hamilton.

68 bermuda.com guide

practicalities

in boiling water and sugar for colds. airmail postcards to North America cost 70¢; Europe 80¢; Africa, Asia, Australia and New Zealand 90¢.

n Religion Many faiths are represented here and churches are ubiquitous. Anglican, Catholic, African Methodist Episcopal and Seventh Day Adventist are among the major faiths. See the church listings in Friday’s Bermuda Sun newspaper.

n Scooters You can rent scooters by the day or week, if you are 16 or older. Helmets, provided by the rental companies, are mandatory (see pages 70 & 71). Some companies offer free delivery to your hotel.

n Smoking Smoking is banned from all enclosed public spaces including restaurants, bars, shops, theatres or any enclosed workspaces.

n Taxis Rates are controlled by law at $6.40 for the first mile and $2.25 for each additional mile for 1-4 passengers. Rates increase after midnight, Sundays and public holidays with a 25% surcharge for 1-4 passengers and a 50% surcharge for 5-6 passengers. Taxis may also be hired by the hour or day.

n TV & Radio Three main local channels screen a nightly news bulletin — VSB (channel 11), ZBM (9) and ZFB (7). A government station, CITV, is on channel 2 and there’s a small handful

Photo by Tony McWilliam

Cabs are air conditioned and comfortable.

of local radio stations. The quality of local programming varies considerably.

n Time Differences Bermuda, noon: New York — 11am Los Angeles — 8am London — 4pm Toronto — 11am Daylight Savings Time comes into effect from the second Sunday in March through to the first Sunday in November.

n Tipping In most cases, a service charge or gratuity has been added to the bill. Where the gratuity has not been added, 15% is about right.

n Water Tap water is safe to drink, unless you are instructed otherwise. Bermuda has no rivers, streams or reservoirs; all our water comes from rain. Bermuda roofs are painted with a limestone wash that purifies the water as it trickles down into underground tanks. Electric pumps send the water up to the tap.

n Weather Bermuda’s sub-tropical climate is generally mild and humid, but summer and winter temperatures vary considerably. The average annual temperature is 76ºF. Monthly averages: January 65ºF, water 66ºF; April 67ºF, water 68ºF; July 80ºF, water 81ºF; October 75ºF, water 76ºF. In an average year we see rain on 171 days and sunshine on 200 days.

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practicalities

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Safety first: At Wheels Cycles, in the city of Hamilton, you’ll be shown how to ride your rental bike before you leave their yard.

How to stay safe on a rental bike By SIMON JONES | One of the best ways to see Bermuda is on two

wheels. Rental bikes give you easy access to all the best sights and with a warm breeze on your face and the freedom of the open road ahead, you’ll feel 10 years younger! Riding a moped or scooter is easy once you’ve got the hang of it. Follow our tips to stay safe: • Hire from a reputable firm and check the bike is in good condition; • Helmets are mandatory — but useless unless they fit well and are secured properly; • We drive on the left — just like the Brits; • Drive defensively and wear bright clothes to aid your visibility to others; • Wear sneakers or closed-toe shoes — topple off your bike in flip-flops and you could easily lose a digit; • The speed limit is 35kph; stick to it and don’t feel obliged to keep up with other road users; • Leave plenty of space between yourself and other vehicles and don’t get 70 bermuda.com guide

We have no mountains, just gentle hills. too close to the curb; • Never turn around to look behind you while riding; • Never stop on a bend or a hill’s brow; • Drive slower when it’s wet; • When riding in a group, put the slowest rider at the front; • Traffic at roundabouts goes clockwise, so as you approach one, slow down and give way to vehicles coming from the right; • NEVER drink and ride; • On weekdays, avoid rush hour city traffic (7.30-9.30am and 4-6pm). If things go wrong, you might find yourself getting patched up by medics. Most typical, says Dr. Roslyn BascombeAdams, Deputy Chief of Emergency at King Edward VII Memorial Hospital, are “elbow and knee abrasions” resulting from spills. She encourages “extreme caution” on the roads: “Some accidents are

what’s on practicalities

caused because the rider is not used to driving on the left,” she says. “Many say they have been intimidated by cars or trucks and have simply got too close to the curb and come off their bike.” Joseph Arnold, operations manager at Wheels, one of the island’s premier bike rental firms, said: “Customers always get an instructor session with us in the yard. The instructor shows the rider how to operate the bike and makes sure they are comfortable riding it. The helmet is one of the most important pieces of equipment – it has to be a snug fit and strapped on properly at all times.” So, the message is clear: be confident you’re ready to hit the road, don’t take risks... but do take your time. And don’t forget to have fun. Wheels Cycles Moped & Scooter Rentals is at 117 Front Street, Hamilton,

tel: 292-2245 n

Wheels Cycles (Astwood) Ltd. 117 Front St., Hamilton, Bermuda Tel: 441-292-2245 www.wheelscycles.com Email: information@wheels.bm

Scooter Rentals by the Day, Week or Month Discover the beauty of Bermuda at your own speed with our easy to ride, Peugeot double seater scooters. Single seaters also available. * Open 7 Days a week * No deposit required * All major credit cards welcomed * No license required * Third party insurance included * Complete instructions & safety tips

Welcome All Visitors

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feature The revealing saga of those cute Bermuda shorts By SIMON JONES | It’s not

everywhere in the world a man can walk down the street in pink shorts and matching knee-high socks and hold his head high. But in Bermuda, no one bats an eye-lid when such colourful dressers wend their way around town. Bermuda shorts are a national uniform. They come in all colours, from salmon pink to sunshine yellow. And they are accompanied by a pair of long socks, called Bermuda hose, pulled up to the knee. Add a navy blazer, a tie and smart shoes and you have standard business attire here in the semi-tropics. Don’t be fooled by the bright colours – Bermuda shorts are serious stuff. We once passed a law that states they should not be Marketing to royalty: Local retailer David Hamshere, who runs the English Sports Shop, offers a pair of Bermuda shorts to Prince Philip during a royal visit to the island last year.

shorter than six inches above the knee. Bermuda shorts trace their origins to the British Army; soldiers

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Wear tasselled loafers with your shorts. sported cut-off trousers to combat the tropical and desert climates they were sent to. They were created at the turn of the 20th century by office workers in London, whose job it was to make sure the forces were suitably attired in farflung corners of the Empire. The look caught on and by the 1950s, most Bermudian men were happy to don a pair of comfortable shorts for work. Although they are Bermuda shorts by name, they are not made here; typically they’re imported from the United States. They make terrific gifts and/or mementos and who knows — you might start a trend in your hometown. The largest selection of Bermuda shorts can be found at the English Sports Shop, which has several

what’s on feature

When British soldiers wore shorts on the battlefields of North Africa during WWII, little did they know the look would become fashionable in far off Bermuda.

branches islandwide. Its flagship store is at 49 Front Street, Hamilton, tel: 295-2672. n

Bermuda’s leading retailer of exclusive, Bermuda-designed resort wear for men, women and children.

49 Front Street, Hamilton, tel: 295-2672 Mangrove Bay, Somerset, tel: 234-0770 Somers Wharf, St. George’s, tel: 297-0142 bermuda.com guide 73

go shopping Bermuda Breeze

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Chatham House on Front Street is the place to go for quality, Cuban cigars.

Great stores, no sales tax You’ve already proved you have good taste by choosing to visit Bermuda so it’s fitting that our stores exude quality. That’s not to say there are no bargains to be had — you’ll find hefty price differentials with the U.S. on items such as jewellery, watches, perfume, silverware, porcelain and crystal. And you’ll enjoy additional relief at the cash register — there’s no sales tax. Many stores are in the City of Hamilton, but the Clocktower Mall at Dockyard, on the extreme western tip of the island, boasts a range of quality gift stores and boutique shops. And the historic town of St. George’s — at the east end of Bermuda — also has a lively shopping scene. Goods made here or produced exclusively for local stores include pottery, jewellery, paintings and prints, pottery, rum, honey, condiments, cedar ware, Bermuda shorts, scarves, fragrances and pillows. Browse the following listings for details. n 74 bermuda.com guide

Bermuda Breeze, sister to Bermuda Blue, is the latest modern fragrance in the Bermuda collection – a fruity floral — exclusively available in Bermuda. Bermuda Breeze’s delightful scent takes in the sea air and the aromas of natural fruits and flowers from around the island. Notes hint of wild berries, mandarin, lemon zest and jasmine. The dry down is lovely sandalwood and white musk, giving depth and warmth. Inspired by the brilliant clear turquoise waves gracing pink sandy beaches, sea misting the immense blue sky – Bermuda Breeze is unique. Take the time to experience Bermuda Breeze and Bermuda Blue — both embrace much that is uniquely Bermuda. Available through select stores across the Island and online including: Gibbons Company, Reid St# ?Xd`ckfe www.gibbons.bm Peniston Brown, St. George’s Perfume Shop, Dockyard Carole Holding, Front St, Hamilton Brown & Co., Front St, Hamilton A.S. Cooper, Front St, Hamilton, branch and hotel stores. www.ascooper.bm Distributed by P.D.L. Limited Tel: (441) 292-1710. infobb@pdl.bm

Bermuda Perfumery The Bermuda Perfumery is located at historical Stewart Hall in the heart of the St. George’s UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since 1928, the Bermuda Perfumery has been creating and manufacturing fine ladies and gentlemen’s fragrances under the brand Lili Bermuda. All the perfumes are made on the premises at Stewart Hall. The Perfumery welcomes visitors for a free tour of its operations and to sample its unique fragrances. This year, the Perfumery launched South Water, a delicious unisex fragrance,

U.S. dollars can be used in Bermuda.

go shopping

composed of coconut milk, juicy guava and sea salt. For women, the Perfumery introduced Petals, a romantic blend of jasmine sambac, honeysuckle and orange flower. To celebrate Bermuda’s 400th anniversary, the Perfumery introduced Somers, for men, a modern blend of Bermuda cedar, olivewood bark and liqourice. The Perfumery’s perfume collection also includes exclusive creations inspired by our beautiful island. Modern women will love Coral, Pink, and Lily, and men will not want to leave Bermuda without a bottle of the famous fragrances 32° North and 64° West. The Perfumery is passionate about the art of perfume making and continues to innovate by using both traditional and modern techniques to produce exceptional perfumes. Visitors are welcome to visit for a free tour and to sample the Perfumery’s exclusive and rare perfumes. The Bermuda Perfumery. Open Mon-Sat 9am-5pm. Stewart Hall, 5 Queen Street St. George’s GE 05. Tel: 293-0627. 1-800527-8213 (toll free in US/Canada). Fax: 293-8810. info@bermuda-perfumery.com www.lilibermuda.com

Gibbons Company For the way Bermuda lives. Shop where the locals shop, at Gibbons Company, the island’s largest, most diversified department store, known for its excellent customer service and wide range of exciting merchandise. They have vibrant collections for all ages, men, women and children, as well as captivating fragrances and cosmetics by industry legends and an array of everything from the essential to the distinctive for the home. At Gibbons, all perfumes, cosmetics and skin-care products are offered with fantastic savings, at duty-free prices. Gibbons’ exclusives include Guerlain, Dior, Decleor, Chanel Cosmetics, Iman, Versace, Vera Wang and Bond #9. Other favourites include Hermes, Burberry, Ralph Lauren, Lancome, Elizabeth Arden, Betsey Johnson, L’Occitaine, Bermuda Blue and Bermuda Breeze – the perfect gift for friends and

Treasure coins from shipwrecks around the world, set in 14k and 18k gold.

WALKER CHRISTOPHER GOLDSMITHS

NO. 9 FRONT STREET, HAMILTON Telephone (441)295-1466 bermuda.com guide 75

go shopping

Locally made products are ‘Bermudiana.’

family back home! Shop on line at www.gibbons.bm and have your favourite fragrance or gift shipped home or delivered directly to your hotel. 21 Reid Street, Hamilton. Tel: 2950022. www.gibbons.bm

M.A.C Cosmetics M.A.C Cosmetics products are designed for all races, sexes and ages. Created in Canada in 1985, it’s now part of the Estée Lauder companies. M.A.C’s popularity grew through a tradition of word-of-mouth endorsement from make-up artists, models, photographers and journalists around the world. Front St, Hamilton. Tel: 295-8843

NINE WEST Nine West carries everything you could wish for in shoes! Here, the Nine West and Anne Klein brands can be found, along with collections of the latest handbags and accessories. Reid St# Hamilton. Tel: 294-519(

The Perfume Shop A wonderful fragrance boutique featuring world-renowned fragrances. Exclusives include Guerlain, Betsey Johnson, Marc Jacobs, Vera Wang and Versace, plus exquisite favourites from Hermes, Van Cleef &

Arpel, Chanel, Dolce & Gabana, Dior, Calvin Klein, Lacoste & Kenzo, plus many more. All at duty free prices! Clocktower Mall, Dockyard. Tel: 405-0006

Peniston Brown The fragrance specialists! Excellent service and the most popular fragrances from around the world, for both men and women, are the hallmarks of this quaint boutique. All at duty free prices. 6 Water Street, St. George’s. Tel: 405-0005

TWENTY 5 REID A chic and interesting fashion boutique carrying clothing and accessories in the very latest styles. Brands include BCBG, Kensie and Desigual to name a few. The perfect place to shop for something unique. Reid St, Hamilton. Tel: 294-5188

Bermuda Post Office Every year the Bermuda Philatelic Bureau compiles a collection of commemoratives and arranges them into an attractive presentation package. This collection continues the Bermuda Post Office’s efforts to portray all facets of Bermuda’s heritage, culture and history. The Bermuda Philatelic Bureau also services orders for current issues of Bermuda’s commemorative and definitive stamps and, for the convenience of collectors, provides a standing order account service with a minimum deposit of 30 dollars. In addition, they maintain a mailing list to provide details of new stamp releases to customers. 56 Church St, Hamilton. Tel: 297-7807

Brown & Co.

Photo by Kageaki Smith

At Brown & Co. on Front Street you can grab a bite at its in-store café.

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Brown & Co. with over 7,500 square feet of floor space, is the island’s most comprehensive department store. Located in the heart of Hamilton, their department stores are stocked with everything you need for yourself, friends, family and your home – featuring tourist-oriented gifts, greeting cards, books from local and internationally

go shopping

Our city covers only 180 acres.

acclaimed authors, perfumes and fragrances from top designers, home décor from around the world, fashion jewellery and so much more. Plus, nestled at the back of the store’s book department is a beautifully designed café offering gourmet coffees, snacks, desserts, sandwiches and more. Make sure to visit them. Open MondaysSaturdays 8:30am -5:30pm and Sundays 1pm-5pm. Hallmark, Reid St, Hamilton. Tel: 279-5442 The Bookmart, Reid St, Hamilton. Tel: 279-5443 The Birdcage Café, Reid St, Hamilton. Tel: 279-5462 Brown & Co, Front St, Hamilton% Tel: 279-5524

Chatham House Bermuda’s leading specialty tobacco shop, established in 1895. Offering a marvellous selection of fine tobaccos and gifts for visitors. Satisfaction is guaranteed. Their extensive range includes English Briar pipes, and a selection of Havanas such as Punch, Partagas, Romeo y Julieta, Upmann, Montecristo, Cohiba and Bolivar — all at good savings over U.S. prices. Corner of Front and Burnaby Streets, Hamilton. Tel: 292-8422

The Phoenix Stores With five full-service pharmacies, Phoenix Stores have been caring for customers and assisting with their health care needs for

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more than 100 years. Should you need answers to health related questions whilst you are on vacation, visit one of their Phoenix pharmacists. Emergency prescriptions are dispensed while you wait and each store carries an extensive range of over-the-counter medications. The stores also carry a wide range of health and beauty products, local and foreign newspapers and magazines, phone cards and postcards, etc. Visit one of their locations: Woodbourne Chemist, Clarendon Pharmacy, Collector’s Hill Apothecary, Phoenix Centre and Paget Pharmacy for all your essentials. All stores are open Monday to Saturday, three stores are also open on Sundays and holidays. Tel: 295-3838

Walker Christopher Goldsmiths From classic diamond bands and strands of South Sea pearls to more contemporary designs, the workshop specializes in crafting one of a kind pieces. Walker Christopher showcases authentic coins; gold doubloons and silver ‘pieces of eight’ salvaged from sunken galleons, as well as Greek and Roman coins dating from 3000BC which are mounted in pendants, earrings and cuff-links. Even museum quality Egyptian artefacts have been transformed into wearable art. In addition, the workshop produces its own line of Bermuda-inspired gold jewellery and sterling silver Christmas ornaments. Some antique and art nouveau jewels. Open Monday to Saturday 9am-5pm. 9 Front Street, Hamilton. Tel: 295-1466 www.walkerchristopher.com

Many stores have their own websites.

jewellery

Photo by jamie macmillan

One of Front Street’s landmark stores, Crisson Jewellers is synonymous with quality and elegance.

Crisson Jewellers Crisson Jewellers embodies Bermuda’s finest and most cherished traditions. A family business since 1922, the Crisson name is synonymous with quality and value. The fabulous array of jewellery and watches reflect the style, sophistication and taste of our discerning customers. When you explore our exciting collections, we are sure you will agree that a visit to Crisson is the crowning moment of your Bermuda shopping experience. Along with the wonderfully eclectic collection of hand-selected pieces from all parts of the world, Crisson are Bermuda’s exclusive source for famous designers including David Yurman, Roberto Coin, Marco Bicego, Picchiotti, John Hardy, Kabana, Pandora, Bixby and Thomas Sabo. As for diamonds of distinction, Crisson has Bermuda’s largest collection of spectacular cuts from Cento, A. Jaffe and Canadia. When it comes to timepieces, Crisson is definitely the place! Crisson are the

officially authorised Rolex retailers in Bermuda. You will also find Tag Heuer, Ebel, Movado, Tudor, Philip Stein, Christian Dior, Rado, Elysee, TX and Raymond Weil. The collection is rounded out with ranges from Seiko, Swiss Army, Citizen, Casio, Esq and Guess! Crisson has two stores on Front Street in Hamilton, with another on Queen Street. There are stores in St. George’s and in the Clocktower Mall at Dockyard. If you are staying in one of Bermuda’s major hotels, you’ll find a Crisson store there as well. Each of these boutique-style stores features pieces selected from our main collections in Hamilton. The shopping experience is relaxed and intimate, and the quality, value and prices are the same whichever store you choose to visit. Crisson Jewellers, 16 Queen Street, 55 & 71 Front Street, Hamilton; Water Street, St. George’s; Clocktower Mall, Dockyard, and all major hotels. Tel: 295-2351 • www.crisson.com

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shopping

Photo by Kageaki Smith

With its broad range of colours and sizes, Onion Jack’s Trading Post on Front Street makes shopping for T-shirts a lot of fun.

Great places to buy your souvenir Bermuda T-shirts By Terri mello | It’s on every visitor’s shopping list — a souvenir Bermuda T-shirt. After all, it’s the easiest way to tell the world you’ve paid a visit to paradise. And with our help, you can be sure Uncle Hank and little niece Nicole will be thanking you profusely for that perfect shirt you found. Whether you’re shopping for a co-worker, relative, or yourself, choices abound in stores across the island. But to make your life easier we’ve chosen a few of our favourite places to find great Bermuda T-shirts. If you’ve only got time to visit one store, Onion Jack’s Trading Post, handily located in the middle of Hamilton’s Front Street, might just take care of all your needs. Here you’ll find a large array of shirts in all sizes (up to 5XL), styles and colours. They stock simple and classy, kitschy and cute, T-shirts with Bermuda maps, local flowers and birds, Bermuda 80 bermuda.com guide

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Hamilton became our capital in 1815. cottages and even some which proclaim that you’ve survived the Bermuda Triangle. And they cater to all age groups. Onion Jack’s VP Irene Cardwell says the biggest seller is the store’s signature logo T-shirt. “People like it because it’s so unique,” she told us. Be sure to check out the bargain bins, which offer shirts for as little as $6.95. Just a few doors down is Makin’ Waves, which carries T-shirts with surfer-dude flare. The store also has outlets in Dockyard and St. George’s. You can’t miss Riihiluoma’s Flying Colours on Queen Street. It’s a twostorey souvenir shop that sports an array of flags across its storefront. Here you’ll find a dazzling collection of just about any kind of Bermuda T-shirt you could possibly want.

shopping

Carole Holding is a local artist with a store on Hamilton’s Front Street. She paints with soft colours to capture traditional Bermuda scenes and you can find a number of her most popular images on the front of adultsized T-shirts. These make lovely, conversation-starting souvenirs. A.S. Cooper is a department store with locations in Hamilton, St. George’s and Dockyard, where you’ll find an array of quality Bermuda T-shirts, ranging from simple and classy to colourful and cute. Brown & Co., on Front Street in Hamilton, has a range of shirt styles bearing a Bermuda logo, with bright selections for children and T-shirts boldly stating ‘Life is always better in Bermuda’. And who are we to disagree? n

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food & drink

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Classy and inviting, Barracuda Grill is a terrific choice for lunch or dinner.

Let’s eat! Our island is small but it offers an abundance of dining options. Casual dress is acceptable at most restaurants, though some upscale eateries require a jacket and tie. And it’s best to make reservations. The dollar signs (see our key, below) offer a rough guide to prices. Also visit www. bermuda.com for updated information. 64° Bar & Grill

Barracuda Grill

64° takes flight at the beautifully reBarracuda Grill, one of Bermuda’s most designed Port Royal Golf Course, overlookcelebrated restaurants, is the place to go for ing the breathtaking and world famous outstanding seafood and chops prepared 16th hole. Enjoy a sophisticated and casual in a contemporary style, proudly winning atmosphere, soaking in the panoramic seven Best of Bermuda Awards! Warm views of the aqua blue south shore. The mahogany woods and plush banquettes in contemporary design of the bar incorpoa sumptuous but comfortable dining room rates seating inside and out. Chef Troy make it suitable for power business meals or Smith is at the helm and is set romantic tête-à-têtes. Barracuda’s Restaurant to create unforgettable culinary cozy but tres chic bar is the place price ranges experiences. 5 Port Royal to enjoy martinis made to share, per person or one of over 16 wines served Drive, Southampton. Tel: 2340974. info@64degrees.bm $ Under $20 by the glass. A warm, lavish and www.bermudasbestrestauinviting interior hints at a time of $$ $20-$40 rants.com bygone glamour but is contem$$$ $40-$50 Lunch $$, Dinner $$$ porized to be thoroughly of the $$$$ Over $50

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food & drink

Mussel pie includes papaya, potatoes,

moment. Irresistible seafood and chops prepared with expertise take centre stage on immaculate white-lit linen covered tables. 5 Burnaby Hill (above the Hog Penny), Hamilton. Tel: 292-1609 Fax 292-8354 www.barracuda-grill.com Lunch $$, Dinner $$$

Bone Fish Bar & Grill Sit down to exquisite views of Bermuda’s breezy Great Sound. Bone Fish’s aim is to create the finest cuisine using local fresh fish and produce for natural, simple and balanced dishes for your enjoyment. Great food at reasonable prices in a lively atmosphere with indoor/outdoor bar and dining. Open 7 days a week. Lunch 11:30am-5pm, dinner 6pm-10:30pm. 6 Dockyard Terrace, Somerset. Tel: 234-5151 Lunch $, Dinner $$

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Café Amici An Italian family style restaurant in the heart of historic Dockyard. Enjoy the spirit of Italian culture and cuisine in a friendly, intimate atmosphere. Bermuda codfish & potato breakfast every Sunday, 9am to noon. Open daily. Breakfast 9-11am, lunch up until 4pm. Dinner 6-9pm. Buon appetito! Clocktower Mall, Dockyard. Tel: 234-5009 Breakfast $, Lunch $, Dinner $$

Chopsticks Chopsticks is known for its delicious Chinese and Thai food. Specialities include regional dishes from Canton, Hunan, Szechwan and Thailand with authentic chefs. From mild to very spicy, there’s something for everyone, including vegetarians. Convenient take out is available. Lunch Monday to Friday noon – 2:30pm, dinner nightly 5pm – 11pm. 88 Reid Street. Tel: 292-0791 Lunch $, Dinner $$

bacon, onions, lemon juice and spices. Fresco’s Italian Kitchen and Wine Bar At Fresco’s you’re invited to step into Bermuda’s first Wine Bar and the Caribbean’s only Wine Museum. One of the most extensive selections of fine wines available on the island. Fresco’s has been hailed locally as ‘Best Restaurant’, ‘Best Wine List’, ‘Best Ambiance’, and as having the ‘Most Decadent Desserts”. While each dish evokes a link to Bermuda, it sits alongside the new, the innovative and, of course, the divine. Shall we? 2 Chancery Lane, Hamilton Tel: 295-5058 info@frescos.bm www.bermudasbestrestaurants.com Lunch $$, Dinner $$$

Grey Goose vodka Cognac, France. The maître de chai (cellar master) for Grey Goose vodka ensures that every element of its production is of the highest quality. He selects 100% of

food & drink

the finest French wheat, and employs an exclusive five-step distillation process to concentrate its exceptional flavour. Pure spring water naturally filtered through Champagne limestone is then blended with the spirit. The quality is in the taste; Grey Goose vodka is lush, smooth and rounded and melts in the mouth with a long-lasting, satisfying finish. When it comes to vodka it makes sense to start with what many people consider to be the world’s best — Grey Goose. Distributed by Burrows Lightbourn.

Hog Penny Restaurant and Pub Hamilton’s oldest licensed establishment, in business since 1957, the Hog Penny inspired the Cheers pub in Boston. Authentic is not a word used lightly here, and a 50-plus year history gives the place a delightful patina of age that you just can’t replicate. In December 1987, Gourmet

Whether you prefer a formal setting or al fresco dining, our chef creatively prepares a wide variety of culinary delights that will please even the most discerning tastes and appetites. Dine with us on our Ocean Terrace and be charmed by the best Bermudian entertainment and a spectacular ocean view nightly. PICTURESQUE VIEWS AND EXOTIC TASTE SENSATIONS Al Fresco dining at the Breakers • Open Daily: Lunch 12.00pm - 2.30pm Dinner 6.30pm - 10.00pm (April to October) • Bermudiana Dining Room 7.00pm - 9.30pm Dinner reservations required 293 1666 • For more information visit www.pinkbeach.com

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food & drink

Try loquat jam, made from local fruit.

Magazine exclaimed “it was love at first sight for us, as well as the throngs who flock here”, and as Gourmet wrote, this great institution is hard to beat for a truly authentic experience. Featuring great cuts of beef, genuine Indian curries, to-die-for hearty, pub style comfort food that has won countless “Best of Bermuda” awards, and was featured on The Food Network’s “$40 A Day”, the Hog Penny continues to be a favourite spot in Bermuda for generations of locals and visitors alike. 5 Burnaby Hill (just up from Front Street) Hamilton. Tel: 292-2534 Fax 292-8354 www.hogpennypub.com Lunch $$, Dinner $$

Island Cuisine One of Bermuda’s most popular diners, where locals and tourists alike enjoy a great breakfast, lunch or dinner. Reasonable prices. Famous for its delicious, homemade Bermudian dishes — a treat for the entire family. Clean and friendly with great service. Serving beer and wine. Try some peas n’ rice with your fish dinner. Also serving fishcakes, Bermuda fish chowder, oxtail stew, rockfish with lemon and butter sauce, braised pork chops, curry chicken roti,

salads, sandwiches and soups. Breakfast served all day. Open daily, Mon-Sat, 6am9:45pm, Sun: 7am-2:45pm 235 Middle Road, Southampton Tel: 238-(EATS) 3287 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner $-$$

Latin & Rumba°r and Java Jive Heating things up in the very heart of Hamilton with Nuevo Latino inspired cuisine, Latin is a sizzling and chic new restaurant that, according to the many guests that have visited us to date, “is different from everywhere else in Bermuda”. The main upscale dining restaurant features many different regional dishes from Central and South America, Spanish Caribbean, Miami and even gives a nod to the Iberian peninsula; all are given a twist and artfully presented in Latin style. Downstairs in Rumba°r, a sleek onyx topped, glowing bar beckons you to sit and enjoy an authentic Caipirinha, or a tall and delightful Mojito. Meander outside to Bermuda’s only open air, below street courtyard lounge, with Philippe Starck outdoor couches and low fabric banquettes. Need a fantastic cappuccino or panini sandwich on the go? Java Jive is open Monday to Friday 7am-4pm for fantastic pastries, breakfasts or lunch to take away. As the degree sign in Rumba°r suggests, Latin is HOT! 29 Victoria Street, Hamilton. Tel: 296-5050. Fax: 296-5333. www.latin-rumbar.com Lunch $$, Dinner $$

Mrs. T’s Victorian Tea Room

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Opus: A modern lounge with delicious food and a range of fine teas and coffees.

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Located at Willowbank Hotel, set in a 17th century home, Mrs. T’s Victorian Tea Room is a classic example of Bermudian architecture with its cedar framework and timeless structures. It remains a delight to behold and worthy of a visit, with classic, sumptuous dishes. Lunch specialities include dishes such as Black Oak smoked ham and aged cheddar croissants to traditional Bermudian Hoppin’ John. “Take tea” with a

food & drink

A Dark ’n’ Stormy is Black Seal Rum

delectable assortment of finger sandwiches, scones with clotted cream and pastries hand-made right on the property. Willowbank Hotel, 126 Somerset Road, Sandy’s. Tel: 234-1616. Lunch $

Opus Café & Lounge A truly exquisite, modern lounge, Opus offers the finest selection of European coffees and international teas as well as a selection of homemade patisseries, fresh salads and tapas. Opus has been awarded Most Exotic Drink (Opus’ daily martini special) and Happiest Happy Hour locally. The perfect venue to steal away from the bustle of Hamilton by yourself or gather with friends over a tasse of espresso or a bottle of vino. Sexy, cozy and sophisticated. 4 Bermudiana Road, Hamilton Tel: 292-3500 info@opus.bm www.bermudasbestrestaurants.com Breakfast $, Lunch $, Dinner $$

Pickled Onion Restaurant and Bar A contemporary styled upscale but casual restaurant, with Bermuda’s best bar and “See and Be Seen” vibe. Chefs here won the prestigious “Escoffier Cup” at the 2004 Bermuda Culinary Arts Festival, and have drawn accolades from Food and Wine magazine, the Washington Post and most recently Giada’s Weekend Getaways showing primetime on the Food Network. The food is North American focused, with global influences, and the goal is to be the best value restaurant experience in Bermuda. A classy but fun Martini style bar is popular with local professionals or those out on the town. Harbour views and live entertainment seven nights a week in season. 53 Front Street, Hamilton Tel: 295-2263 Fax: 295-6291 www.thepickledonion.com Lunch $$, Dinner $$

EAT WITH AT THEAT THE EATFRIENDS WITH FRIENDS NEW CAFE DOCKYARD NEWAMICI CAFE IN AMICI IN DOCKYARD

Bar & GBra il rl& Grill Café Amici Café Amici is a placeisfor a place for friends and friends and family tofamily to gather and gather and enjoy theenjoy the

Catch the ferrythe ferry Catch to Dockyard and to Dockyard and visit Bone Fish visit Bone Fish to experience to experience the menuthe from menu from award winning award winning chef Livio Ferigo. chef Livio Ferigo.

Located Located on the corner on the corner spirit of spirit of of the Clocktower Mall of the Clocktower Mall open 7 open 7 Italian Italian in Dockyard, in Dockyard, days a week. days a week. culture and culture and Located Located oppositeopposite Breakfast Breakfast cuisine -cuisine the ferrythe dock in dock in ferry 9 a.m. to911a.m. a.m.to 11 a.m. enjoyingenjoying Lunch to 4 p.m. Dockyard, open 7 open 7 Dockyard, Lunch to 4 p.m. days a week. laughter,laughter, Dinner Dinner days a week. Lunch: Lunch: 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. exceptional 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. exceptional 11:30a.m.11:30a.m. - 5p.m. - 5p.m. Cod FishCod andFish and food andfood and BermudaBermuda Dinner: Dinner: Potato Breakfast every Potato Breakfast every each other. 6p.m. - 10:30p.m. each other. 6p.m. - 10:30p.m. Sunday 9Sunday a.m. to912: p.m. a.m. to 12: p.m. Call: 234-5151 Call: 234-5151 Call: 234-5009 Call: 234-5009

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mixed with ginger beer – delicious!

food & drink

The Pink Beach Club For a most romantic setting make your way to the beautiful Pink Beach Club in Tucker’s Town. The Bermudiana Restaurant prepares five-course gourmet dinners in elegant surroundings with stunning ocean views. A jacket is required for gentlemen, ties are optional. The table d’hotel menu changes daily and they are happy to accommodate those with special dietary requirements. Dinner served nightly 7pm — 9:30pm. South Road, Tucker’s Town Tel: 293-1666 Breakfast $$, Lunch $$, Dinner $$$$

Rosa’s Cantina Saddle up and get on down to Bermuda’s only Tex Mex eatery. Famous Margaritas are offered in different flavours (Best of Bermuda Award) as well as Mexican beer and a full bar menu. In warm weather, try a seat on the balcony overlooking Front Street. Try Unbelievable Nachos, Ridiculous Burritos, Quesadillas and Fajitas. Great Steaks at great prices, done on the Mesquite Grill and creative dinner specials keep Rosa’s on top. Families with small children are welcome. Open daily from 11:30am onwards. 121 Front Street. Tel: 295-1912 Lunch $, Dinner $$

Silk Thai Cuisine Silk offers a delicious blend of flavours from the kingdom of Siam. With a team of Thai chefs from the Shangri-la hotel in Bangkok, patrons will be treated to one of the fastest growing ethnic foods in North America. Silk Thai Cuisine, the first Thai restaurant in Bermuda, has been awarded top honours by Condé Nast Traveler magazine, which named it a ‘Top 80 Hot New Tables’ restaurant. This award-winning restaurant is open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. Dinner only on Sundays. 55 Front Street, Hamilton Tel: 295-0449 info@silk.bm www.bermudasbestrestaurants.com Lunch $, Dinner $$

Mrs. Tea’s Victorian Tea Room Victorian elegance provides lunch or afternoon tea in a charming environment for a genteel afternoon break. Willowbank Hotel & Conference Facility 126 Somerset Road Sandy’s MA06, Bermuda Ph (441) 234-1616 www.willowbank.bm Hours: Lunch or Afternoon Tea • Week Days 12pm-2:30pm • Weekends 12pm-5pm

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Photo top left by Jamie Macmillan, bottom left and above right, Kageaki Smith

Delicious: Codfish cakes, top left, and below it, a typical codfish breakfast. Enjoy a codfish breakfast on Saturdays at the popular Speciality Inn, South Road, Smith’s, above.

Two classic Bermuda dishes By MEREDITH EBBIN | A Bermuda codfish breakfast, usually enjoyed on

Sundays, ranks high on the island’s list of national dishes. Codfish cakes are equally popular and are eaten any day of the week. Dried salt cod, the essential ingredient in both dishes, has been part of our culinary tradition for nearly four centuries. It was once a cheap food source for slaves. These days, the Sunday staple that is served in homes, members’ clubs, hole-in-the-wall eateries and hotels, is a veritable feast. The main ingredients are dried salt cod and potatoes. Most cooks use boneless cod, but purists say dumpfish, which is dried cod with the bones and skin, has a better flavour. Both are laden with salt. So the cod, which is packaged and imported, usually from Nova Scotia, must be soaked in cold water overnight and the water changed at least twice. The cod is boiled in fresh water. The potatoes can be cooked with the cod or separately. The flaked fish and whole potatoes are eaten with avocados, bananas and olive oil. 92 bermuda.com guide

Have you tried conch stew yet?

what’s on food & drink

It’s also delicious served with a basic hot cross buns. tomato sauce or one with ‘the works’ — Codfish breakfast is on the menu onions, green peppers and bacon. Other 6am-11.30am on Saturdays at the cooks swear by an egg sauce. For many, Speciality Inn (Tel: 236-3133), a popular a codfish breakfast is not complete home-style eatery on South Road in without hot cornbread or Johnny bread. Smith’s Parish. Bouchée Restaurant With all the trimmings, it’s a hearty (295-5759) is on Pitts Bay Road in meal that should see you through to Hamilton and in 2009 won an award suppertime. for its codfish breakfast. It’s served For codfish cakes, mashed potatoes Sundays 7.30-11.30am. Best to arrive and cooked cod are mixed together with early at both places, where you’ll pay an egg and seasonings, shaped into roughly $15 per head. balls or patties and then fried. If your budget is a bit bigger, the They’re found on most menus and in Fairmont Southampton’s Sunday upscale restaurants, codfish cakes are breakfast buffet, served at Windows on usually offered as an appetizer. the Sound, includes codfish and potatoes Fishcakes are usually eaten for lunch, with all the trimmings. Reservations are served between a bun, with lettuce, required (Tel: 238-2555 for times). tomato, tartar sauce and a few drops of Codfish recipes can be found in most hot sauce. SI_BDACOM_AD_0210.pdf Many locals eat them with a 2/24/10 Bermuda cookbooks and Cecille C. 1 11:34 AM raisin bun — a nod to the Good Friday Snaith-Simmons’ The Bermuda Cook holiday when fish cakes are eaten with Book is a good one to try. n

CMY

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Your handy pub guide By James Whittaker | Hamilton’s Front Street is the centre of our nightlife scene and the Pickled Onion is a great starting point. With live music, good food and a friendly atmosphere, it’s probably our most popular bar. The Hog Penny, a cozy, oak-panelled bar that inspired the Bull and Finch pub in Cheers, is just steps around the corner. Back on Front Street, Flanagan’s, an Irish bar with an American feel, and the Outback sports bar, which screens everything from basketball to cricket, are worth checking out. Nearby, The Beach – self-proclaimed ‘shame of Front Street’ – is a popular late-night spot. It has a good bar menu and closes late; the ‘shame’ bit kicks in if you find yourself still partying in the early hours, having planned a ‘quiet’ night out. Bermudiana Road caters to a more sophisticated crowd. Smart shoes, collared shirts and well-padded wallets are required here, where upscale wine bars nestle between swish restaurants. The Robin Hood on Richmond Road is a lively, British-style pub with reasonably priced food and live sports. If you’re streetwise and like to stray off the beaten track, take a wander down Court Street, where you’ll enjoy the atmosphere in bars like the Spinning Wheel, where the DJ keeps the dance floor busy with a mix of classic 94 bermuda.com guide

Photo by Jamie Macmillan

The Pickled Onion boasts a harbourfront terrace and is one of our most popular spots.

soul, reggae and soca. The friendly Swizzle Inn, near the airport, is always a good night out and is famous for potent rum swizzle cocktails. North Rock Brewery on South Road, Smith’s Parish is a good spot to sample locally brewed beers — St. David’s Pale Ale is our favourite. The Frog and Onion in Dockyard will also serve you an authentic, local pint of beer and along with the Bone Fish Bar & Grill, a terrific people-watching spot, it’s your best bet in Dockyard. Out west, the Country Squire in Somerset has a beautiful wooden balcony overlooking Mangrove Bay and is worth a visit, while Henry VIII in Southampton is another popular spot. Wherever you go, don’t drink and ride — leave your rental scooter at the hotel and take a bus, cab or ferry. Cheers! n

food & drink Common Ground A great place to meet friends, pick up your breakfast, morning coffee, freshly prepared sandwiches, daily specials, homemade soups or an afternoon chocolate treat! We serve alcohol, cold beverages, wine and beer. Every month we use our walls as a temporary art gallery to showcase art. Open Mon–Fri 7:30am–5pm, Sat 8am to 3pm. Chancery Lane, Hamilton. info@commonground.bm. Tel: 292-2353

Juice ‘N Beans Café

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Stop for a cuppa By Terri mello | Whether you’re about to kick-start a fun morning of shopping or need a pick-me-up in the midst of a hectic day, what better way to do it than with a hot cup of java? On most main streets in

Experience the unique selection of premium quality products on offer at Juice ‘N Beans, Bermuda’s first and only all-vegetarian eatery. With exciting choices of home made baked goods, custom-made fruit smoothies and optional health boosting add-ins, to distinct and delicious varieties of premium organic coffees and teas. Open Mon-Sat 7:30am-11pm, Sun 1pm to 8pm. 61 Front St, Hamilton. Tel: 292-6454. Fax: 292-5148

La Bella Café Specialties include: frappuccinos, fruit smoothies, specialty coffees made with premium Illy coffee. We also offer a selection of fresh pastries, bagels, croissants, paninis and subs. Bring in this advertorial and receive complimentary biscotti with your order. Open Mon-Fri 7.30am-5.30pm, Sat 9am-2pm. Thistle House, Burnaby St., Hamilton. Tel: 295-9857

Hamilton you’ll find numerous

Lemon Tree Cafe

interesting places to stop and

Experience a gourmet breakfast or one of our appetizing daily specials. Located in a tranquil park setting, we are the only one of our kind in Bermuda. Enjoy a glass of wine or an ice cold beverage at our full-service Tiki Bar. We also serve Illy coffee. Open Mon-Wed 7:30am–7pm; Thurs 7:30 am– 9pm; Fri 7:30am–midnight (also 5pm–2am ‘Wine Down Happy Hour’); Sat 11 am–3 pm. 7 Queen St., Hamilton. Tel: 292-0235. Fax: 292-0571

catch your breath. A few steps in any direction and you’ll soon be upon a place that suits your fancy, whether you’re looking for a laidback ambience, a trendy setting or just need to grab something fast. We’ve got you covered.

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guıde APRIL 2010

Whale watching A south shore spectacle

oyster perpetual day-date

Movie ties

rolex.com

FOR EVERY SPECIAL OCCASION 55 & 71 FRONT STREET & 16 QUEEN STREET, HAMILTON WATER & YORK STREETS, ST. GEORGE’S CLOCKTOWER MALL, DOCKYARD • ALL MAJOR HOTELS • TEL (441) 295 2351

Where The Deep was filmed

OFFICIAL ROLEX RETAILER

Visit historic St. George’s — pages 30-38

Free