BESPOKE SUMMER 2012 EDITOR: KEELY GARDNER ART DIRECTOR: JOANNA ZAMBAS BEAUTY EDITOR: VICTORIA RITCHER-HART FASHION EDITORS: HAMISH WIRGMAN CARLA SEIPP, KATE FRENCH KAREN MCCANN MUSIC EDITORS: CHARLIE WOODS ALEX STEFANI FILM EDITOR: MARIELLA AGAPIOU SOCIETY EDITOR: MAX HORTON CONTRIBUTING EDITORS: SARA BELLINI MISTY GRIFFITHS SHANICE BRYCE SALOME BAKPA VALENTINA LEON SULA JANSCO IMAGES: SALOME BAKPA VITA SLUKA KIRSTY FEDERIK ALEX STEFANI LEAH SINCLAIR CAMEO WEEKES
EXTRA PAIR OF HANDS: TERRY NEWMAN THANKS TO: DEBORAH LAMPITT, ROBERT DE NIET, JAMES ANDERSON, ALYSON WALSH, ALEXIA ECONOMOU, HANNAH SHAKIR, GARETH EDWARDS AND LUCY O’BRIEN.
PUNK ISSUE Spring Summer 2012 )HMXSVMEP
1
PART 1: HAPPENING .Billie Whizz by Hamish Wirgman +IXXMRK XS KVMTW [MXL (IEXL +VMTW TVS½PI F] 'LEVPMI ;SSHW =EVHPMJI *IWXMZEP F] 7EVE &IPPMRM 4ESPS 6SZIVWM I\LMFMXMSR VIZMI[ F] 'EVPE 7IMTT .SLR 4IIP [I WEPYXI ]SY F] /EXI *VIRGL &IWTSOI´W QSWX I\GIPPIRX ½PQ TMGOW F] 1EVMIPPE %KETMSY ;EXGL XLMW SRI RI[ HIWMKRIV ,IPIR &YPPSGO F] 'EVPE 7IMTT % KYMHI XS MRXIVRMRK F] 1E\ ,SVXSR . 4ST . 6SGO F] 1MWX] +VMJ½XLW
PART 2: WEARING
'SWQIXMGW SR XLI 'EX[EPO F] :MGXSVME 6MXGLIV ,EVX WX 'IRXYV] &S] F] 7LERMGI &V]GI 4PEMR .ERI HSIW 4YRO F] /EVIR 1G'ERR )]I 7T] 4ETIV 7IPJ 0EWLIW F] :MGXSVME 6MXGLIV ,EVX ;LIVI XS WLST 4YRO F] /EXI *VIRGL 4MGO SJ XLI &IWX 9RMSR .EGO 7LSTTMRK TEKI F] /IIP] +EVHRIV - [ERRE FI WIHEXIH ¯ WLSSX F] 7EPSQI &EOTE ERH /EXMI *VIRGL
PART 3: THINKING 4YRO E JEWLMSR QSQIRX F] /EXI *VIRGL %PMGI (IPPEP 4YRO TVMRGIWW TVS½PI F] /IIP] +EVHRIV %R MRZIRXSV] SJ TYRO F] 7EVE &IPPMRM 8LI 2I[ 1MHPMJI 'VMWMW F] /EVIR 1G'ERR +YIWW [LEX# 6S]EPX] WYVZMZIH XLI 4YRO I\TPSWMSR EJXIV EPP F] :EPIRXMRE 0ISR ;IEV ]SYV ¾EK 9RMSR .EGO JEWLMSR QSQIRX F] 7YPE .ERWGS 8LSYKLX JSV XLI HE] HS [I EKVII [MXL :MZMIRRI ;IWX[SSH´W PEX IWX I\TPSWMZI XMVEHI# ERH EPP XLEX F] %PI\ 7XIJERM
EDITORIAL “A guy walks up to me and asks ‘What’s Punk?’. So I kick over a garbage can and say ‘That’s punk!’ So he kicks over the garbage can and says ‘That’s Punk?’, and I say ‘No that’s trendy!” The year was 1977 and Britain was hovering in recession. Unemployment figures were the worst since the Second World War, with school leavers least likely to find work. Public spending had risen and the optimism of the 1960s had faded away. The social and political climate in which young people were growing up resulted in a feeling that was a mixture of resentment, frustration and anger. It was inevitable that all this would cause a tide of teenage rebellion and when it found its voice it wasn’t afraid to raise it. Punk culture saw musical heroes in The Damned and the Sex Pistols - who kicked, screamed and raged against authority, the media, and sugar-coated pop hits. Fashion ushered in a rip and tear mentality with slogan t shirts, studs and leather all presided over by the Queen a.k.a Vivienne Westwood. And through this revolution ‘punk’ was born. Today we see the same seeds of anger beneath the surface of society. Recent riots in communities across Britain and those of young people and students making a stand against the government highlight public frustration. So as we search for ways to express our opinions and our dissatisfaction it’s no wonder that elements of punk are appearing on the catwalk, in advertising, in makeup looks and of course in music. This issue of Bespoke combines our creative talent to present the 2012 new wave of punk. So Never Mind The Bollocks – Here’s Bespoke. Keely Gardner Editor 1 | S/S Bespoke
HAPPENING
BILLIE WHIZ... LONDON’S TOP NEW MODEL BILLIE TURNBULLT When you think model you may normally jump to a clichéd judgment - pretty dumb, aesthetically pleasing but above all boring people who probably love themselves. Sadly from past experience I have found that on the most part this is completely true. However the good news is I’m not always right, and this piece is certainly not going to be a big fat whine about models. I have found the exception to the rule in Billie Turnbull. Her ego is in check despite being shot by the likes of Nick Knight who has been captivated by her suede-head-skin head good looks. All this despite being still in school. And that’s not all. She also has had the great fortune to be shot alongside HAMISH WIRGMAN 8 | S/S Bespoke
some pretty big male models like Yuri Pleskum, Jack Royal, Danny Reed and Dan Felton too so the industry is clearly catching up with her style. And surprisingly Billie is just as good behind the camera so not just a face. Her own photography portfolio includes some beautiful shots of friends including the artist Jenkin Van Zyl and young sparks Daisy Davidson and Harry Daniels. Her photos produce an honest feeling. Slightly gory sometimes, her subjects have a twisted image that is conversely almost sugary sweet at times. What with talent and good looks we should hate her of course, but take a look beneath the hype and you may well look twice too….
GETTING TO GRIPS WITH DEATH... Crawling under the skin of a genre which has become increasingly popular since the worldwide obsession with OFWGKTA, and the dozen or so angry teenagers who release music under its influence, Death Grips appear ready to explode through its chest cavity and attack the West Coast music scene. Vocalist Stefan Burnett and production duo Zach Hill and Andy Morin first emerged with their self-released mix tape Exmilitary in the spring of 2011. Its impact was helped by the pairing of powerful low-fi beats and panic attack vocals, which at times melted away from any recognisable structure and created a wave of emotionally charged sound. It’s not the jarring intensity which highlights them among less noteworthy examples of the contemporary Horrorcore movement; it’s the sincereness of their music. Since it’s become cool to burn schools and swear a lot, the experimental hip-hop scene has CHARLIE WOODS 9 | S/S Bespoke
become clogged with youthful hate - hate which explodes with initial intensity but eventually dissolves into a lukewarm impersonation of itself. What Death Grips has brought to the table is a legitimate set of motives and ideologies centred on raw attempts at connecting to their audience with original ferocity. Their recent signing to Epic Records have raised them to a level above obscure music makers and given them a platform on which to reach a bigger audience. With two albums lined up for this year, it will be interesting to see how well they will strike a balance between content and quality. Their style is set to influence the younger generation and spawn bands who site them as a musical father figure (be it an estranged and abusive one). The question is how long it will take for yet another original movement to become diluted down to a cliché dismantled the point where it can be summarised on a T-shirt.
10 | S/S Bespoke
THE WEDDING OF MUSIC AND FASHION.... The happy couple Sir Music and Lady Fashion announced the date of the happy event, taking place on April 28 at Yard Life Festival, Hackney Downs Studios, East London earlier this year to happy applause. Pete Doherty will celebrate the wedding and the guest list includes indie bands Babeshadow, the Recusants, Gaoler’s Daughter, the Savage Nomads, iC1S and DJs Rory Phillips, Filthy Dukes, Alex Egan and Lemmy Ashton. Your invitation will be sent after a suggested £10 donation to Multiple Sclerosis Research and ALL the money raised with the event will go to charity. Dress your mind and body in green to fit the eco-friendly initiatives promoted by UpCycle, like the ExChange: switch your trash with items made in upcycled materials and help the world be inhabited by living creatures and not by rubbish. Before and after the celebration you SARA BELLINI 12 | S/S Bespoke
will be entertained with art installations and fashion events. Get the festival look with the help of hairstylists and makeup artists, buy a dress (bargains from £15) at Judy’s Affordable Vintage Fair and take part to the vintage tea party. If you have a oncefabulous-now-old outfit you want to make stylish again, learn how at Stitched Up with the help of bridesmaid extraordinaire Singer. After you have made, mended and glittered your armour, go on a quest and complete the new secret task within Jojo Townsand’s Wow Project. So raise a pre-festival toast to the bride and groom who will be happy to see you in all their guitar-riff splendour and vintage-dress allure. Enjoy the wedding of the year. For more information or to get an invitation go to www.yardlifefestival. co.uk
13 | S/S Bespoke
PAOLO ROVERSI EXHIBITION AT THE WAPPING PROJECT BANKSIDE Paolo Roversi’s exhibition at The Wapping Project Bankside gallery in south London provided the perfectly personal setting for an array of platinum, silver gelatin and pigmented prints from his Nudi and Studio series to be admired. The legendary photographer’s signature style of large format instant Polaroids, which he developed in the eighties, has seen him collaborate with the likes of Comme des Garcons, Yohji Yamamoto, and Christian Dior. While the exhibition also featured Roversi’s work with models such as Kristen Owen and Natalia Vodianova, the main focus was on his longtime muse, Guinevere Van Seenus. Although a majority of his images are in black and white, when Roversi does use colour, albeit muted, it is to a striking effect: the Bordeaux red of an Yves Saint Laurent marabou featherpeplumed dress worn by the beautifully vulnerable looking Van Seenus 14 | S/S Bespoke
or the mustard yellow of a tulle gown, which worn with an oversized conical Chinese hat, envelops its wearer in fabric, building a complimentary contrast to the sierra brown background like a mushroom to the earth. He may put hours of effort into perfecting each image, but judging by the relaxed body language of his subjects and details such as the rolling down nylon over knee socks and wrinkled button down in Guinevere Sitting On Table, Paris 2004 that give each picture a sense of naturalness and humanity. Be it an otherworldly supermodel or an unknown subject that he is photographing, there is always something inexplicably haunting, captivating and timeless about Roversi’s work. The minimal set-up of his pictures, often a simple studio backdrop, effectively showcases his intimate connection with those in front of the lens; luminescently lit from within,
their eyes pierce out of the image and ture never loses its impact. directly into the viewer. Regardless of whether one is seeing it paoloroversi.com for the first or fifth hundredth time, whether it was taken thirty years or thewappingprojectbankside.com thirty days ago, a Paolo Roversi picCARLA SEIPP
JOHN PEEL: WE SALUTE YOU Somebody was trying to tell me that CD’s are better than vinyl because they don’t have any surface noise. I said, “Listen, mate, life has surface noise.” – John Peel. Five months doesn’t seem enough time to delve through and publish the complete archives of John Peel, Radio 1’s longest serving DJ, recognized for championing new music and promoting punk, amongst other genres, before they hit the mainstream. But somebody has been brave, or stupid, enough to try. An innovative online museum aims to archive 40,000 singles and 25,000 LP’s (CD figures are beyond countable) from Peel’s back catalogue. The digital exhibition of the shows, vinyl art-work and ramblings of the record collector extraordinaire will be made available online from May. “The idea is to digitally recreate John’s home studio and record collection, which users will be able to interact with and contribute to, whilst viewKATE FRENCH 18 | S/S Bespoke
ing Peel’s personal notes, archive performances and new filmed interviews with musicians”, says Frank Prendergast, creative director of Eye Film and Television. Remembering Peel hasn’t just been a virtual affair either, with writer John Osborne debuting his sell out show, John’s Shed at the Edinburgh festival last year, that poignantly remembers the broadcaster. The writer, who won a box of records on Peel’s Radio One show once and then spent over eightyears trying to get through them, shares his favourites on stage using a record player. With John’s Shed, the BBC re-naming of a wing of their new building after Peel earlier this year and the pioneering online museum initiated in his honour, it seems the radio legend is deservedly once again in the public eye. As Osborne, the curator of John’s Shed reverentially words it, the archives will be ‘an ode to radio, those records, and anyone who’s ever sought solace in wireless.’
BESPOKE’S MOST EXCELLENT FILM PICKS... The British Summer can fail us, bringing wind and rain, when all we want is sunshine and a hotter climate. However, with some great films being released this summer, you can forget the weather and munch on popcorn. Mariella Agapiou recommends the must see films and festivals of the season.
to http://shortsfilmfestival.com/ for more details]
Ted Fans of South Park will love creator Seth McFarlane’s feature debut. ‘Ted’ is a story about a man’s (Mark Wahlberg) teddy bear that comes alive. However, contrary to popular belief, this bear is anything but cuddly. The A Fantastic Fear of Everything swearing, lazy toy disrupts his owner’s Simon Pegg plays a children’s author mundane life. If you’re not a fan of who turns to crime fiction in this dark South Park, better give it a miss. [Out comedy. His research into the lives of August 3rd] Victorian serial killers turns him into a paranoid idiot. Written and co-di- Portobello Film Festival rected by CJ Mills (Kula Shaker) with This completely free film festival was Chris Hopewell. [Out June 8th] set up in 1996 to promote new cinematographers and films made on Rushes Soho Shorts Festival different formats. It includes features, If annoyed with the predictable shorts, documentaries, music films blockbusters out there, you can check and animation. You’re sure to be inout the work of newcomers and es- spired. [August go to http://www. tablished filmmakers, who’s work is portobellofilmfestival.com/ for more shown at cinemas, screening rooms details] and cafes throughout Soho and London’s West End. [ July and August go 21 | S/S Bespoke
On The Road ‘On the Road’ is based on Jack Kerouac’s 1957 novel, directed by Walter Salles. Fans of the book are sure to flock to screenings; with British actor Sam Riley (‘Control’) playing MARIELLA AGAPIOU
Sal Paradise and stars such as Kristen Stewart, Kirsten Dunst, Amy Adams, this adaptation is set to capture the attention of a new audience. [Out September]
HELEN BULLOCK... Helen Bullock’s hand-printed designs are helping put the fun back in fashion. Her two season-young label already counts Julie Verhoeven as a fan and with her colourful geometric, paisley and floral printed tunics and maxi dresses it’s easy to see why. Hailing from Shropshire, the MA Fashion graduate from Central Saint Martins (where she also currently works as an illustration and design tutor) refined her craft at labels including John Galliano and Ossie Clark before launching her own namesake line. Alongside her own collections, Bullock is a freelance print designer for accessories at Louis Vuitton. With her latest autumn/winter collection inspired by sculptor and installation artist Jessica Stockholder, YBA painter Gary Hume, South London housing, nail art, the dynamics of cliques, the female form and the work of Louis Feraud, it becomes clear that Bullock’s aesthetic is a proverbial melting pot of influences which blends into one unique and CARLA SEIPP 22 | S/S Bespoke
whimsical look. Having expressed a passion for illustration, painting and sculpture alongside fashion, the London-based designer’s work puts a refreshingly artistic and personal touch back on the runway. The raw construction finishes of her pieces act as a canvas for Bullock’s painted prints, which are laid out across the body in large-scale, abstract forms. The designer notes that the visible human touch on her clothes, as opposed to digitally printed perfection are an important aspect of her work, with the imperfections giving the pieces vitality, and ultimately, an individual character. With London cultivating print fashion with for the likes of international names such as Jonathan Saunders, Mary Katrantzou and Peter Pilotto, one could predict Helen Bullock as the city’s next big (print) thing. Having already been featured on the likes of Dazed Digital and exhibited at Vauxhall Fashion Scout, the industry appears to agree.
AN INTERN’S GUIDE INTO THE FASHION INDUSTRY... Experience, in our line of work, is an invaluable attribute and whom we know is just as important as what we know. Its a well known fact that we’ve chosen one of the most competitive career paths to follow, and gaining work experience in fashion never has been and never will be an easy task. Stand out from the crowd and get as much experience as you can in order to present yourself to a future employer as determined and dedicated. These days there is such a demand for internships that the designers and PR agencies can afford to be picky about whom they want to employ even if it is for free. WHO do I contact? The Fashion Week website has the contact information of all the designers or their PR agency on each designer profile. Emailing as many as you can usually elicits a response from at least one. You will generally find yourself working with a PR agency, as each one represents most designers. Perseverance is a skill one should possess here. Unfortunately, most PR agen24 | S/S Bespoke
cies set their mailboxes to send out a standard reply, usually, “Your request for tickets has been denied due to lack of space”, or something like that. If this happens, it might be worth calling the agency or even the designer and asking for an internship. HOW should I present myself ? If you get an interview, wearing something stylish is obviously essential. Present yourself as confident, able and diligent. Timekeeping is imperative also. Its better to arrive half an hour early than bang on time, and it makes a bad first impression if you arrive even a minute late. WHAT should I look out for? It’s more a case of whom. I’ve heard many good stories about Blow PR; the staff is helpful, friendly, and chilled out, perfect for a first time intern. On the other hand, other PR companies have a more dubious reputation, Ella Dror PR in particular. Having had personal experience with Ella Dror, and after hearing many horror stories about them, I can safely (and politely) say it may not be the best
idea, at the very least. SNOW PR is another good PR agency. The staff, although not altogether as polite as the staff at Blow, know what they’re doing, and do it well. WHAT can I expect? Don’t jump straight in expecting great things, it isn’t glamorous. You will find that most of your tasks will involve manual work at some point. Be it dressing models, making tea, delivering invitations, or managing the press. Patience is a very handy skill when it comes to Fashion Week. PR staff will be stressing, guests will be stressing, the designer will be stressing, and all
will be undoubtedly directing their frustration at something, be it you, the models, the stylist, whoever. Just take a deep breath and take it on the chin. Don’t let any of that put you off. Working at Fashion Week is an invaluable insight into how our industry works, and being a part of that is rewarding in it. It will also give you a taste of what to expect in the future, whether you’re a stylist, photographer, journalist, PR or designer, witnessing first hand how they operate. Oh, and if you’re lucky, you might be invited to the after party.
MAX HORTON 25 | S/S Bespoke
J POP AND J ROCK... Spawned from the love of Malcom Mclaren and Vivienne Westwood, with the idea to combine music and fashion, the record label Chubby Kids was born. Andrea Chamberlain and Dele Ladimeji set up the label two years back to coincide with their success over in Japan. The pair managed to get a blanket licence deal with Avex Goup Holdings in Japan where they wrote a song - for Asuko Meade, former member of girl band AKB48which rocketed straight to number one last August and sold around 200,000 copies in its first day. Now that’s success! However the pair were not finished yet and they recently had another number one but this time, in the global charts with band Arashi and their album Beautiful World which sold over two million records. Now they are branching out into the fashion scene. With Chamberlain MISTY GRIFFITHS 26 | S/S Bespoke
having a wealth of experience in fashion due to her fashion styling background - where she has worked on editorials for Australian Vogue, Nylon and NME. It’s not a surprise that the talented creative couple would bring fashion and Japanese music together to create J Pop and J Rock “vintage style grudge T-shirts”. Each T-shirt is accompanied by a USB stick that showcases ten tracks of up and coming artists to create a real fusion of music and fashion. The genre of music is varied, “USB sticks will be an eclectic mix of pop through to indie and rock to electro. We’re not afraid to mix up the genres” says Chamberlain. The pair hopes to follow in the footsteps of Def Jam records and become internationally known. With what they have accomplished already I think it’s safe to say they might well be.
27 | S/S Bespoke
WEARING
COSMETICS ON THE CATWALK... London fashion week is always an exhilarating time, when the best designers from around the globe showcase their current and sometimes possibly best collections yet. However it is not only the clothes and accessories that set tongues wagging. Make-up has become just as significant and an integral component to creating a polished over all look. What the models are wearing on their face is as important as what they slide onto their miniature frames. Make-up is away of bringing an outfit alive and is another way to become a trendsetter and this was certainly the case at this years LFW A/W 12. There were a few designers in particular that developed an interesting look during the week, Corrie Nielsen being one of them. Inspired by her Scottish heritage, Nielsen’s collection consisted of traditional tartan fabrics and tailoring techniques married with avant-garde shapes - but this 29 | S/S Bespoke
didn’t stop at the clothes. Her intricate plaid patterns were mirrored by the make up, with checkered designs imprinted on the face using a delicate cut out which emerged from the hair, covering the eyebrow, eyelid and cheekbone. Paired with a deep rose red lip, sun kissed cheeks and simple flicked eyeliner it was experimental and striking. Meadham Kichhoff was another that caught my attention in the makeup stakes. The collection expressed some serious disco dazzling as girls stomped down the catwalk in mega chunky heels covered in sparkles, flinging glitter while the pom-poms in their twinkling hair bounced from side to side. The models faces acted as blank canvas for finger painting candy colours had been strategically wiped onto their faces and spread across the brows and down one side of the nose while macaroon coloured glitter was used as a highlighter on
the cheeks and under the eyes. Last but by no means least is Bora Aksu. With his classic signature bows, paired with soft knitted dresses and classic fitted pencil skirts, prim shirts and baby doll dresses, this cute collection was paired with a barely there make-up look to bring it together – but there was a twist. The models sported dewy skin, nude eyes, and VICTORIA RITCHER-HART
their pretty faces adorned with floral lace which mirrored the patterns on the clothing. Not to mention the all-important attention grabbing ice blue lips. It was the face-paint here that added an avant-garde feel to an otherwise classic collection. Viva la maquillage. Watch what it gets up to next season‌.
BORA AKSU
CORRIE NEILSON 30 | S/S Bespoke
MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF
31 | S/S Bespoke
21st CENTURY BOY... 3ZIV XLI ]IEVW WXVIIX GYPXYVI LEW EHSTXIH MXW S[R HMZIVWI WX]PIW SJ GPSXLMRK 8LMW GER FI WIIR EW E VITVIWIRXEXMSR SJ XLI ZEVMSYW WYF GYPXYVIW SV ]SYXL GYPXW *VSQ XLI ³ W 8IHH] &S]W ERH KMVPW XS XLI ³ W 4YRO VSGOIVW XLI IQIVKIRGI SJ XLIWI YRHIVKVSYRH WX]PI XVMFIW LEZI XYVRIH MRXS FVERHW XLEX LSPH E YRMUYI EYXLIRXMGMX] EFSYX XLIQ &VMXMWL GPSXLMRK GSRGITX &S] 0SR HSR KIXW GVIHMX JSV MXW LMWXSV] *SYRHIH MR F] 7XITLERI 6E]RSV MX´W E FVERH XLEX LEW JSYKLX LEVH XS VIQEMR YRHIVKVSYRH -XW GEVIJVII EXXMXYHI LEW EGXIH EW E JEWLMSR QSZIQIRX QSVI XLER E JEWLMSR FVERH 4MSRIIVW WYGL EW 1EPGSPQ 1G0EVIR ERH :MZMIRRI ;IWX[SSH KEZI PIE [E] XS XLI 4YRO WYFGYPXYVI [MXL XLIMV WLST 7)< E QIIXMRK TPEGI JSV TYROW HS[R EX XLI IRH SJ XLI /MRK´W 6SEH ORS[R EW ³;SVPH´W )RH´ &3= LEH ER MQTEGX QEOMRK MXW [E] MRXS XLI [EVHVSFIW SJ XLI QSWX SYXVEKISYW WX]PI WIXXIVW MR XLI JEWLMSR ERH QY WMG MRHYWXVMIW ±&3= FIGEQI 8,) QYWX LEZI PEFIP SJ XLI IVE² HIGPEVIW SRI WSYVGI [LS [EW XLIVI EX XLI 32 | S/S Bespoke
XMQI -X´W XLI MHIE XLEX ³ER]XLMRK KSIW´ PMXIVEPP] 0MOI SXLIV LMGGYTW MR XLI JEWLMSR ERH QYWMG MRHYWXVMIW XLI FVERH I\TIVMIRGIH E JEPP [LMGL ORSGOIH XLIQ SJJ XLI VEHEV JSV E RYQFIV SJ ]IEVW ]IEVW SR MR XLI HIGEHI SJ XLI 5YIIR´W (ME QSRH .YFMPII &S] 0SRHSR´W EFMPMX] XS VIQEMR ER YRHIVKVSYRH IGGIR XVMGMX] MW GSRWXERXP] FIMRK UYIW XMSRIH 8LI JIEV XLEX &3= GSYPH JEPP YRHIV EKEMR TSWXW E TSWWMFMP MX] EW XLI VI PEYRGL ERH XLIMV RI[ ETTVSEGL XS XLI [E] XLI FVERH MW TYFPMGMWIH XVIEHW E ½RI PMRI =SYXL GYPXYVI MW RS[ QSVI FPYVVIH XLER IZIV ERH XLI JEWLMSR MRHYWXV] GSR WXERXP] GLERKIW WS 4YRO EW MX LET TIRIH FIJSVI GSYPH RIZIV LETTIR EKEMR XLI YRHIVKVSYRH RS PSRKIV I\MWXW %RH 4YRO RS PSRKIV WLSGOW YW ER]QSVI ERH XLI GLEMRW SJ E XE FSS LEZI FIIR PSRK VIPIEWIH XLI JEWLMSR WEZZ] ]SYXL SJ XSHE] LEZI XSS QYGL JVIIHSQ ,S[IZIV E TEWWMSR JSV XLI FVERH MW [LEX LEW OITX &VMXMWL GPSXLMRK GSR GITX &3= 0SRHSR EPMZI &3= HI½IW EPP XLI VYPIW ERH I\ IVXW E WIRWI SJ VIFIPPMSR EQSRK
YW ;MXL XLMW E JIIPMRK SJ IQERGM WIPJ -X MW E GIPIFVEXMSR ERH MW RSX TEXMSR ERH HIWMVI XS FI FSPH MR EPP XS FI WLYRRIH 0IXW LIEV MX JSV XLI JSVQW MW WIIR EW ER I\TVIWWMSR SJ Boy…. SHANICE BRYNE
Boy keeps swinging. 4LSXSKVETL] :MXE 7PYGOE 7X]PMRK 0IEL 7MRGPEMV 1SHIP 'EQIS ;IIOIW ,EMV 1EOI 9T 'EQIS 33 | S/S Bespoke
PLAIN JANE DOES PUNK Punk is having a bit of a come back these days, with Doc Martins and leather jackets everywhere… but you don’t have to be a crazy rocker, or head to toe anarchist with a Mohican to get in on the trend. Here’s how to do Punk the simple way. The easiest way is to take aspects of the style that you like (studs, leather, black) and use them in a way that suits your own personal wardrobe. For example, I worked as an assistant for Clements Ribeiro at the most recent London Fashion Week and for Autumn Winter the designers used leather to harness the punk theme but kept it appropriate for their target audience and wowed the audience with a below knee leather skirt. Another key concept of the original punks is their crazy hair colours; this was also seen in S/S 12 collections, such as Thakoon where powder pink was the colour of choice. An easy way to achieve this, without permanently changing your hair colour or damaging it, is to use either La Riche, Directions hair colours, available on eBay for pennies, or Lee Stafford’s Colour Xtreme Colour Spray, which you will come across in Poundland- see, no breaking the bank KAREN MCCANN
needed. Since we all attend a fashion and arts university, why don’t we get crafty who will? Home- made tie-dye is so much better than just buying it. Just grab an old T-shirt, liquid or powdered dye, salt and water; it looks very grunge. Finally, who can look at all punk without a few studs? A lot of people I know have been altering their clothes with craft shop studs recently, a few on the shoulders of a vintage cardigan, a couple on the tongue of their Converse and a load on the rim of a pair of socks and viola, punk. If you aren’t feeling at all creative, just nip to Topshop and buy a pair of studded tights for £12, same effect, less effort. So there is no excuse to not rein in the S/S 12 trends and get your punk on. Anarchy in the UK? Well it’s going down well in Surrey….. 35 | S/S Bespoke
EYE SPY: PAPER SELF LASHES However busy you were during the Autumn-Winter London fashion shows, you would have still found time to have a catch-up gossip. But forget Kate Moss - Paperself was the name on everyone’s lips. With a small set up in the Rock Vault as well as style-central Somerset House, Paperself were providing classy hackettes a chance to try out their new and novel falsies. They went down a treat. Paperself creates a contemporary way of wearing false lashes. Gone are the days of choosing between thick or extra long lashes and it’s all about whether you want tiny birds perching on or lashes or flowers blooming from your lash line. The lashes are inspired by the art of Chinese paper cutting. The designs blend together an element of traditional culture with a contemporary twist. Paper material are delicately cut into exquisite and fragile shapes created for maximum flutter. The lashes come in two sizes, a small size that accentuates the outer corner of the eyes for a subtler daytime look or a full VICTORIA RITCHER-HART 36 | S/S Bespoke
lash to make a statement. Paperself have a number of different designs including The Lace Garden collection that was an exclusive collaboration between Paperself and the Victoria and Albert Museum. The lashes were inspired by French Ribbon lace from the 19th Century. Meanwhile, the Rocky Punk Collection works in contrast with idea of Paperself lashes, using unlikely images such as scorpion tails crafted into fragile loveliness. However the newest collection from Paperself is the most ultra fabulous. The British Collection has been created in celebration of the Queens Diamond Jubilee and The London Olympic games. The lashes are an expression of UK ‘craftsmanship and inventive spirit’. The ‘London’ lashes take on the from of the London skyline, including the London Eye (naturally), Big Ben and Tower Bridge, while the ‘Rose’ lashes are designed with beautifully refined roses to represent the national flower of England. Lashes of fun!
Photography by Kirsty *IHIVMGO 1SHIP /EXI *VIRGL 0EWLIW F] 4ETIVWIPJ 37 | S/S Bespoke
WHERE TO SHOP PUNK Sitting only a stone’s throw away from hipster hotspot Brick Lane, is Sick, a small vintage store that lures passing crowds through its eye-catching exterior. The shop is ran by Steph Raynor, the owner of BOY, the cult label and iconic shop that alongside Westwood’s SEX helped kicked off the punk/ bondage scene in London back in the 80’s. Despite a large amount of 90’s rave clothes – remnants of the BOY aesthetic are still evident throughout the store. Slashed, pinned vintage pieces – customised by the staff themselves - are presented against designer T-shirts and leather bombers. Despite its rich history and role in the ignition of punk – it somehow still seems to be an undiscovered gem. If the window display is anything to go by; a shredded sex pistols t-shirt and an open crotched mannequin – this store’s captured and maintained the feisty spirit BOY once had. KATE FRENCH 38 | S/S Bespoke
If you fancy venturing out of central to shop punk, head south to the heart of Brighton laines. Hidden down in the airless basement of Immediate Clothing lies PunkerBunker, a wellkept secret amongst locals that stocks hundreds of vintage t-shirts amongst other punk paraphernalia such as LP’s and magazines from the rip it up era. If you’re chasing more of a fashion-fix however, Queen Vivienne is always happy to provide. It may not be the King’s Road original, but Westwood’s flagship store in Piccadilly still or better still the wonky floored shop in Worlds End stocks clothes with the same edge and aesthetic as the garments traded in SEX over thirty years ago. Yes, it may be hidden in the backstreets of Shoreditch or buried inside a windowless basement, but punk is still out there, ready to be seen, shredded and worn.
PICK OF THE BEST: UNION JACK. CELEBRATE THE DIAMOND JUBILEE IN RED WHITE AND BLUE...
1.
2. 9.
8.
7.
3.
The Sex Pistol’s ‘God Save The Queen’ 4. became an anthem of the punk movement. It expressed anger young people felt toward the constraints of an oppressive traditional establishment. The Union Jack was turned on it’s head by Jamie Reid’s shocking graphics for The Sex Pistols and while his iconic imagery still reigns supreme, fashion in the 21st century means you don’t have to tear up to 5. make a style statement. 1. Alexander McQueen scarf £445 2. River Island holdall £39.99, 3. Topshop jumper £46, 4. Body Jewlellery. com belt buckle £4, 5. Jonathan Aston at mytights.com £12.25, 6.Schuh kitten heels £55, 7. Accessorize ring £6, , 8. Religion Jeans £65, 9. Jimmy Choo slippers £495
6. KEELY GARDNER
39 | S/S Bespoke
I WANNA BE SEDATED... 4LSXSKVETLIV /EXMI *VIRGL 7X]PMWX ,EMV ERH 1EOIYT 7EPSQI &EOTE 1SHIP %PMGI (IER :IRYI 8LI6L]XLQ *EGXSV] &EV ERH 'PYF ;LMXIGLETPI 6SEH )
0EGI &VE QSH els own 7LIIV HVIWW [MXL WEJXI] TMRW Stylists own 0IEXLIV WOMVX :MRXEKI &I]SRH Retro
1SHIP [IEVW© 6EQSRIW8 WLMVX :MRXEKI 2YR PEXI\ HVIWW %RRI 7YQQIVW *MWLRIX XMKLXW Primark
41 | S/S Bespoke
THINKING
PUNK DESIGN MOMENT... For a movement that declared itself an anarchistic, two-finger salute to conformity and was once bent on destroying the fashion industry itself, punk has had its fair share of fashionable moments. From dog-collars sold at Seditonaires to McQueen’s skullprint scarves, the movement and its un-apologetic attitude has always been difficult to ignore and has certainly kept the fashion industry fuelled with inspiration. The Queen Mother of punk, Vivienne Westwood and her partner Malcolm McLaren defined the trend from their King’s Road boutique SEX in 1974. The store sold bondage wear and slogan t-shirts featuring a range of crudely phrased statements; something that Westwood then revisited back in 2006 with her controversial ‘I’m not a terrorist’ t-shirts. Like most subcultures, it couldn’t stay underground for long. Zandra Rhodes used the punk aesthetic in her
designs, bringing a ‘punk-luxe’ look to the covers of Vogue. After she introduced more polished alternatives than rusty studs and second-hand pins, celebrities and consumers were quick to take note. The punk details used by Rhodes filtered down to Elizabeth Hurley, an insult to the movement in its entirety, whose dress and dignity were held together by safety pins. The first successfully, the latter not so much. The Versace dress that thrust the model and her chest into the spotlight was put up for auction after being deemed the ‘best red carpet gown of all time’. Punk’s anti-establishment attitude and love of red tartan was shared with designer Alexander McQueen, who gave a salute to punk in his final collection for his secondary line McQ before his death in 2010. Although designer’s re-interpretations of the trend often appear derivative, McQueen’s interpretations, as usual, were anything but.
Whether you like it or not, it seems designers arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t quite ready to stop rehashing the trend. With Pam Hogg and Queen Westwood planning new collections, Rei Kawakubo sending Johnny Thunder look-alikes storming down the catwalks for her latest KATE FRENCH
44 | S/S Bespoke
S/S collection and alternative covergirl Alice Dellal fronting Chanelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Spring handbag campaign, punk looks to have many more anti-fashion moments to come. So long as there is conformity to face and we all still have two fingers, punk will never die.
45 | S/S Bespoke
POSH PUNK PRINCESS... Alice Dellal bangs drums, so how did she become a designer’s dream muse? She is heiress to a Brazilian property tycoon and part of the all-girl Gospel/Lyrical/Punk band, Thrush Metal, who also started their own record label, Sweet Dick Music. She’s practically never spotted wearing anything other than her trademark punk-rock uniform Dr Martens and her beauty regime pretty much consists of a hell of a lot of black kohl. She is not quite what you might expect to find among glossy fashion pages, more likely in the tabloids alongside a DVD case covered in a thick, white powder. But it turns out that despite or maybe because of her bad girl image designers seem to be drawn to her. Through her association with Next Model Management Dellal first gained exposure as Mario Testino photographed her for a French Vogue editorial in 2003. Since then the tomboy model has done a Burberry campaign, appeared in British Elle with the Kings of Leon, replaced Kate Moss as the new face (or body) of Agent Provocateur, graced the cover of i-D and Dazed & Confused and
walked for Valentino Couture. Dellal’s tattoo’s and half-shaved head have worked in her favour in a fashion world constantly looking for something as explosive and new as punk was. Chanel has tapped into this unconventional and previously unforeseen muse to promote the launch of their Spring Boy handbag collection. The campaign is regarded as the perfect blend of Chanel glamour and the model rocker’s fashion sense. In fact, the campaign showcases Dellal featuring sporty dreadlocks and her trademark leather and ripped fishnets. Karl Lagerfeld who is known for his eclectic casting in the handbag campaigns “had a crush on this unique, charismatic young lady, who is both a model and musi cian, during a photo shoot several months ago,” stated Chanel. Alice Dellal represents the perfect incarnation of all that is unique about the Boy Chanel handbag collection, which strives to be far from conformist notions of femininity.”
Following in the footsteps of Chanel is non-other than Marc Jacobs. The designer has hired Dellal to star alongside blond male model Erik Andersson for his Spring Summer Marc by Marc Jacobs ad just one month after she signed with Chanel. This move makes a change from the sweetness and light of teenager Elle Fanning who fronted his last campaign. DelKEELY GARDNER
lal has however reined in her bad ass attitude with some rather girly frocks and pencil skirts making for a creative punk style contrast in the images shot by Juergen Teller. So now itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s confirmed, the fashion world finally agrees with the punk rock style of Alice Dellal and something tells me she might have to put that music career on hold.
AN INVENTORY OF PUNK... ‘Punk is not dead’ is a music and fashion cliché. But the heritage of the punk movement can’t be reduced to studded leather jacket, Mohawks and a rough sound. It means a bit more…. and here’s a bit more about punk to be going on with….. DIY: the best answer to money problems. Self-published magazines, selfrecorded albums, self-styled outfits are all good ways to go DIY. And of course in the 21st Century a combination of retromania and rejection of materialism has made modern day punks realise we are more than puppets, we can use our own hands by ourselves. Utopia: anarchy is the most utopic concept ever, born from a movement that aimed to change the real world. But utopia is also useful to lead ideas to their concrete form. Rebellion cannot last forever, otherwise it becomes mere destruction, rebellion must be constructive, but there is no rebellion without a bit of utopic ideals. Find them and feel inspired… Status Quo: when things don’t work, something has to be done, it is simple. Stand up, raise your voice, and try to challenge authority. Today these SARA BELLINI 48 | S/S Bespoke
things are done without a cause and they just enforce the status quo: get back to the meaning behind. Why don’t you..? Individual among Individuals: before punk it was all about ‘us’. Now it is all about ‘me’. Punk got things sorted out and it’s hilarious that one of the most rebellious of rebellions was based on such a balanced principle. Beauty: there is not such thing like beauty, there are many beauties. Punk beauty was a non-beauty, a morethan-beauty, the cult of social rubbish in opposition to the neat and clean cliché. It was good for a change, something to keep in mind, not to copy. Reinventing Identity: things stay the same, become old, and lose originality… what a bore! Punk soon became a mass phenomenon, which of course contradicted the quintessence of punk. Punk was lost its punkiness; it was got dull, and turned into everything it stood against. Then came evolution, the music developed, the style developed, the movement split up and punk got back to individuality. Back to the future where punk can still mix things up.
49 | S/S Bespoke
THE NEW MIDLIFE CRISIS: BODY ART... I met a very interesting woman when I lived in Blackpool; she had just turned forty and decided that it was time that she got her first tattoo: a rather large vine leave across her right arm and chest. The I.T technician told me that she finally felt like her body was her own, mainly because her mother had forbidden her to get any body art when she was younger. Following the thrill of getting her first tattoo, she decided to jump on a new trend and get a couple of dermal anchors embedded inside the vine leaves: it looked pretty insane, especially because of her age. For a while, I thought she must have been having some sort of midlife crisis but after keeping my eyes open and asking around friends and family, it seemed to be an actual trend: adults getting their first tattoos and piercings around the ripe old age of forty. Camden is a well-known place to go for piercing and tattooing, so I ventured there to find out just how common midlife body art really is. The KAREN MCCANN 50 | S/S Bespoke
tattooist at ‘Chrome’ described how ‘it is common for the middle aged to get their first tattoos after the age of thirty, usually of their children’s names or to remember their parents who have recently died.’ One of the female pierce artists told me that is was ‘quite rare for over forties to be getting their first piercing, but not unusual for them to be getting new and unique body jewellery.’ One of my closest friends, Eleanor, got her first tattoo when she turned eighteen, pretty standard by all accounts, but her Mother, aged forty two, said, ‘only if I can get my first tattoo with you.’ Off they went and got inked, an exact copy of Cher Lloyd’s tattoo ‘pocket full of dreams’ for Eleanor, and her two daughters initials for Mummy. A month later and Eleanor’s Mum did what any teenager would do and want more, this time following in the footsteps of her younger daughter Abbie, and got a surface piercing in her arm.
GUESS WHAT? ROYALTY SURVIVED THE PUNK EXPLOSION AFTER ALL... Back in ’77 the UK Punk movement played with some of the most emblematic royal symbols trashing their sacred meaning forever. Punk worldwide has always been about kicking against the main stream. It rejected massive consumption, brands, fashion as a system, and of course, the big fat powerful institution that ruled them all - the Government. Anarchy in the UK manifested because it had a lot to rebel against…. but that of course was back in the day. When The Sex Pistols launched their single ‘God save the Queen’ in 1977 in the Silver Jubilee year, controversy quickly mounted. This was exactly what Malcolm McClaren wanted. The BBC refused to play it. The British National Anthem had fallen in rebel hands, and never sounded untouchable again. The figure of the lion, present in the Royal Coat of Arms of the United Kingdom has been used in several 52 | S/S Bespoke
album covers, such as the one published in 1980 by The Sound, ‘From the lion’s mouth’, or ‘Throw them to the lions’ by Baseball Furies. It was also the name of an iconic punk pub, the ‘Red Lion’, from where several legendary videos were recorded and big music deals arranged. Ironically enough for the punk culture, a Mc Donald’s ‘drive thru’ is found nowadays right on the same spot. And what about Tartan? The fabric so visually associated to the punk wardrobe, wrapped around the body with safety pins, is historically a strong aristocratic pattern. First worn by the Scottish warriors, it has always remained close to the English heritage. It still is and has probably gained a few fans since punk appropriated it. Well-done Vivienne! At the end of the day, this is the postpunk era. The 21st Century is when the Establishment dances to the street style rhythm, bending its rigid struc-
-ture to create a whole new melody. and made it something everyone can Punk didn’t destroy the monarchy or wear on their sleeve…. rip it up if you tradition…. just mixed it up a bit…. dare. VALENTINA LEON
53 | S/S Bespoke
WEAR YOUR FLAG THE RISE OF THE UNION JACK’S FASHION MOMENT! In a pre-Olympics mood every nation tends to be more patriotic. They are more forgiving if someone wants to start a new trend wearing national colours on the high street. But the one nation who does not need to find an excuse to dress in its colours from tip to toe is of course the Olympic host country: Great Britain. It has been more than 200 years since the crosses of St George, Andrew and Patrick combined to make up what we know as the Union Jack. Over decades the flag was only used for showing patriotism, straightforward emblems of British values and of course its territory. Suddenly, the 60s came along with the music movement known as the British Invasion with wildly popular bands like The Who. They frequently used Union Jack as their own logos and outfits making it an unquestioned fashion icon. It took only ten years for the underground culture trying to question the unquestioned. They shredded and safety pinned the flag, and Jamie Reid took the lead with clipping the Queen’s eyes just in time for her Silver SULA JANCSO
Jubilee. For her Diamond Jubilee, British rebels smile ironically on Union Jack outfits. It is everywhere from high street to high end couture. The Twitter generation (for whom Geri Halliwell’s Union Jack dress and the Vanity Fair cover with Liam Gallagher and Patsy Kensit under the Union Jack duvet cover is history) chats constantly about their newest Union Jack discoveries. The Italian designer Kinder Aggugini said once the reason for the Union Jack’s immortality in fashion might be its “brilliant conceiving” of “13 sections” which makes designers able to play with colours and pattern. That was exactly what Stella McCartney did with Team GB Olympic uniforms. The wavy, unconventional Union Jack is fresh, sporty and posh but still recognizable as the national flag. So Her Majesty can relax as this year subversion is out of question, people only wear red-white-blue to show their fashion sense and patriotism. With a twist of course.
THOUGHT FOR THE DAY: DO WE AGREE WITH VIVIENNE WESTWOOD’S LATEST EXPLOSIVE TIRADE? “People have never looked so ugly as they do today. We just consume far too much ... I’m talking about all this disposable crap,” - Vivienne Westwood. Vivienne Westwood, ŒThe Grande Dame of Design1 is well known for shocking her audience, be it with her words or with her clothes. This latest quote was uttered after showing her A/W collection for 2012. Westwood, who came to fame duringBritain’s Punk revolution in the 1970s, said the clothes for her latest collection had been inspired by Britons’ ability to confront harsh economic times with imagination and devil-may-care daring. A bit like back in the glory days of punk thenŠ.Is she right? Have we lost all sense of style to consumerism? I decided to investigate on a typical high street. The first things I1ve noticed are Topshop Girls. Although Topshop is indeed a store for the stylish young 56 | S/S Bespoke
lady, it seems to have become a store for EVERY young lady. Having worked at Topshop, I have witnessed this phenomenon over and over again. The same girls buy the same things, and their friends follow suit until what we1re left with is legions of young women wearing the same thing. When did it become ok to wear leggings as trousers with a crop top? Usually accompanied by Ugg boots, a gilet and a messy bun, this trend has seemed to spread like a virus throughout Britain1s teenage population. I1d like to know who is responsible for this obscenity, this is not style, and this is, as Westwood said, disposable crap. Primark has undoubtedly exacerbated this Situation. However it seems there is hope for us yet. Brick Lane and the streets of Camden and Spitalfields are teem
ing with young, truly stylish people. Go online and spend hours people watching on The Sartoralist site and get inspired. Hand-picked, gorgeous vintage pieces and incredible hand crafted jewelry go hand in hand to create something fresh: if you peek outside of Oxford
Street youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find something worth looking at. Loads of young people have captured a new zeitgeist of what it is to be fashionable in London and it1s got nothing to do with Primark. So fear not, Dame Westwood, all is not lost.
MAX HORTON
57 | S/S Bespoke
1977: PUNK THEN AND NOW Throughout the generations punk has made its mark on society. 40 years ago anarchy announced itself by stomping boots and yelling as loud as possible, but today itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s still around influencing 21st century sub cultures. Beginning mid 1970â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in America and England, underground New York was to home bands such as the New York Dolls,
4LSXSKVETL] F] %PI\ 7XIJERM
Ramones, Blondie and The Velvet Underground but in England it was a chance for youths that felt alienated to lash out at the government in the times of industrial Britain and a time when the UK music scene was booming and the world was taking notice. The likes of Bernie Rhodes and Malcolm McLaren were to manage two
of the most influential bands- the Sex Pistols and The Clash, and there are many more from the fledgling scene that are still remembered today and continue to inspire, such as Siouxsie and The Banshees and The Slits. In a society growing with ferocity in style and a need for freedom to speak your mind- whether in voice or spray paint, punk was a movement with meaning beyond just the sound. It was what you did with it that counted. In ’77 everyone wanted rebellion and anar-
chy, and a strong punk contingent had strong beliefs based around socialism and non-conformity; ideas that still resonant with musical youth today. There is music that is still made to be shocking, in keeping with original aims - bands such as Flogging Molly, Dropkick Murphy’s, Death Grips, Rancid and Misfits are all children of punk. With the 35th anniversary edition of ‘Never Mind The Bollocks’ coming out this summer it’s clear that Punk has still got the gift of the gob.
ALEX STEFANI
59 | S/S Bespoke
WHAT’S THE MOST PUNKISH REBELLIOUS THING YOU HAVE EVER DONE?! Took my parent’s BMW sports car, drove to Manchester and partied hard, on their money. - MAX HORTON. As the government raise the price of cigarettes to try and make me stop, I’ve decide to start smoking more - KEELY GARDNER. A true punk, never reveals her secrets JOANNA ZAMBAS. Running riot through school with my year 11 peers while lessons were still going on. We customised our uniforms and came into school late, bearing in mind we attended an all-girls convent school with strict rules- it was like St.Trinians all over again - SHANICE BRYCE. I used to sneak out to raves when I was about 16 and say to my mum I was at my friends houses - CAMEO WEEKES. If I told you, I’d have to kill you - TERRY NEWMAN. The most rebellious thing I’ve ever done was probably sneaking backstage at a concert. Not the most wild/rebellious thing to do, but it got my adrenaline going - LEAH SINCLAIR The most punkish/rebellious thing i have ever done was get a tattoo, which doesn’t seem bad at all but to my parents it was he worst thing i could ever have done, my dad actually cried – VICTORIA RITCHER-HART