Summer and Fall Turfgrass Issues

Written by Expert Contributor Matt McGuire, Owner of Delaware Valley Turf

There has been a significant decline in the health and appearance of cool season lawns and fields the past month. When July began, things were looking good, then we had a heat wave starting on July 19 th . When summer temperatures top 90 degrees, plants transition from growth mode to survival mode.

What is happening is fairly normal for this time of year in this part of the country. Most lawns and fields in the Delaware Valley (with the exception of Zoysia grass) are comprised of cool season grasses, which are better adapted for the areas north of Interstate 80. These cool season grasses, such as Tall Fescue, Perennial Ryegrass and Kentucky Bluegrass, look great in the spring and fall when temperatures are between the 50s and 70s. However, they suffer in the summer when temperatures go above 85. Zoysia grass, on the other hand, is a warm season grass, and conversely thrives in the heat of the summer and does not like the cooler temperatures of the spring and fall.

Crabgrass, Goosegrass, Stiltgrass and other summer annual weeds love the heat and moisture that we experienced this past summer. If left unchecked, these weeds can take over a lawn or field and become the dominant species. In the fall, when the first frost kills these weeds, the lawn will become irregular and patchy. In time, these plants will outcompete all other desirable plants (grasses) and lead to bare soil in the winter.

This past summer, like last summer, was a great year for grass weeds. Even lawns that have had an application of preemergence herbicide have begun to suffer breakthroughs of crabgrass and other annual weeds.

Lastly, a word on the record rainfall that we have experienced in the last 12 months. Turf needs water but too much is worse than too little. When plants experience dry periods, they naturally go into summer dormancy until moisture returns. Excessive soil moisture coupled with high temperatures and humidity are conditions most favorable for turf disease. There has been a lot of turf disease this summer.

The solution for all lawns and fields is to have them dethatched (if necessary), aerated and drop-seeded (or slit-seeded). The drop-seed should be dragged so that the seed is buried; many people just throw seed on the ground and then wonder why it didn’t germinate. New seeds need consistent moisture, and burying the seed enables it to stay damp for a longer period of time compared to seed that was just left on the surface. There is a very good reason why golf courses complete this process each fall: When done correctly, aeration and seeding makes a huge difference in the recovery of the turfgrass. A few weeks after the seeding process, the lawn should be back to normal and looking better than ever for the fall and the following year.

Matt McGuire, Owner of Delaware Valley Turf

Delaware Valley Turf

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