A/W TREND FORECAST BETHANY O’BRIEN
CONTENTS
01 02 03 04 05 06
VISUAL MERCHANDISING AND IN STORE Sudden Surroundings Artisanal Merchants
Subdued Industrial
PRINT AND GRAPHIC Instant Illustration Clear-Cut Botanics Playful Pop Art
MENSWEAR
07 08 09
No Pressure Boys Don’t Cry
Unearthed Urban
Figure 1
VM AND IN STORE Sudden Surroundings/ Artisanal Merchants/ Subdued Industrial
01 Quick Construction
Raw Elements
Neutral Settings
Figure 2
CHIPBOARD
FAWN
SLATE
MULBERRY
With the constant demand for fast fashion, stores are heading back to basics with quickly constructed wooden fixtures and exposed beams to create a sense of depth and communicate authenticity. Easily assembled spaces using 3D printing of units allow for quick construction and deconstruction. Stores are opening up their usual crowded spaces to create a much more relaxed and open environment.
SUDDEN SURROUNDINGS
The Sudden Surroundings trend has been innovated by a variety of environmental and technological sources combined, including the rise of Veganism and artist Spencer Finch, who creates ethereal light installations that visualise his experience of natural phenomena.
Figure 3
Artisanal Merchants
02
Stripped Structures
Unexpected Outcomes
Traditional Aesthetic
Craft and innovation intersect in this visual merchandising trend. Raw materials such as woven fabric and bamboo are used as art becomes the everyday and develops new design roots. A DIY aesthetic is created through handcrafted techniques, which delves into the details of everyday life.
Figure 4
Figure 5
CHARCOAL
PERU
PINE UBE
COCOA
Innovators come from the recent rise of and artists Martina Lasinger and Ai Wei look at mundane items, highlighting the stories that lie behind each individual
upcycling Wei, who rich object.
MAUVE
SUBDUED INDUSTRIAL
Figure 6
03 Contrasting Textures
Functional Fittings
Manufactured Edge
Subdued Industrial brings together contrasting materials in unexpected ways, combining luxury with the everyday as industrial fittings are counteracted against soft furnishings to create a welcoming environment for consumers.
Figure 7
Innovators include the Industrial Revolution from the 18th century, to the recent rising requirement for Luxe materials such as marble and onyx which are being juxtaposed against construction materials including plywood, steel and concrete.
COIN
GRIDELIN BARRISTA
LENAX
BLUFF
Figure 8
PRINT AND GRAPHIC Instant Illustration/ Clear-Cut Botanics/ Playful Pop Art
INSTANT ILLUSTRATION 04
Figure 9
Linear Graphics
Artistic Association
Emotive Display
Referencing zine styles, subversive illustrations and relatable phrases, the trend allows for illustration to become a direct translation from sketchbook to clothing. Satirical slogans communicate relatable emotive messages through childlike linear scribbles to create an authentic connection.
CARBON
POSSIBLE INNOVATORS IMAGE HERE
VECTOR SAGE
Figure 10 Innovators include artists such as Anastasia Tasou and Elizabeth Ilsley who are moving from print to clothing to maximise the display of their work creating living canvases out of its wearers.
BERMUDA
DASH
Clear-cut botanics 05 Muted Colour
Heavy Outlines
Maximalist Graphics
Figure 11
A fresh print story is created as illustrated plants and organics are combined with modern computer design. Heavy lines are added to daring graphics, contributing a playful quality to collections which combine old with new from a maximalist outlook.
Figure 12
APRICO
BASIL SPRUCE
FINCH
ELM
Clear-Cut Botanics innovators include the rise of environmental awareness, as people care more about not only what they’re putting into their bodies, but what they’re leaving on the planet too. This includes artist Kevin Dutton; who lovingly nurtures his plants, then photographs them when they are at their peak. Gucci’s S/S 16 collection is a huge influence which included prints and intricate embroidery that intertwined with flora and fauna to call out on exotic discovery.
Playful pop art Figure 13
06 Mixed Media Elements
Asymmetric Silhouettes
Rich Colour Blocks
Inspired by the work of Roy Lichtenstein, comicstrip graphics and typography offer a high-impact, commercial means of buying into the new Pop Art trend. This expressive theme blends eye-popping visuals with surrealist imagery as retro motifs and video gaming characters are placed on prints. Fabric is manipulated for a hyper-realism effect in a fun and light-hearted manner, allowing the movement to stand stronger than ever.
The World Goes Pop exhibition showing in London’s Tate Modern Gallery has been the main driver to innovate the trend. Artist Andy Warhol was the first Pop Art icon to become an influential figure in the fashion world through exploring the relationship between artistic expression, celebrity culture, and advertisement which lead to impact on Jeremy Scott’s signature tongue-in-cheek style, giving Moschino a bold brand identity.
Figure 14
COBALT
CARMINE
JADE
ZEST
STEEL
AZURE
Figure 15
MENSWEAR No Pressure/ Boys Don’t Cry/ Unearthed Urban
NO PRESSURE 07 Casual Fit
Subtle Detailing
Minimal Palette
Soft and clean simple shapes are fused with muted palettes and textures to combine for comfort. Unpretentious style and minimal aesthetics emphasise the intelligent forward thinking nature of its followers. The relaxed simplicity of the trend embodies autumn and winter comforts.
Figure 16
TERRACOTTA ARMADA
Figure 17
No Pressure takes influence from contemporary Scandi design and the minimalist art movement. Such as artist Donald Judd, who formed pieces that were free of emotion and focused more on simplicity and creating geometric shapes.
MOSS
STONE
BOYS DON’T CRY Figure 18
08 Tactile Textures
Present Day Concepts
Gender Neutral
As the boundaries between men’s and women’s fashion are becoming increasingly irrelevant, a unisex ethos becomes enmeshed into broader values of inclusivity, slow fashion and sustainability. Menswear explores more feminine shapes and colour palettes, merging minimalist and maximalist styling such as soft leather and suede beside simple cut-and-sew pieces.
Figure 19
SEPIA
MAJESTIC WISTERIA
MINUET
Boys Don’t Cry takes huge influence from the current exploration of gender fluidity. This is seen through the work of designer JW Anderson as he portrays an alternative vision of masculinity and as androgynous model Erika Linder shows how she can pull off male and female style in an ad campaign for Crocker Jeans.
HAZE
PEARL
UNEARTHED URBAN
Figure 20
09 Organic Prints
Contemporary Materials
Outdoor Performance
In an increasingly tech-centric world, the urge to experience nature in a wilder, purer way becomes more rooted in our beings, thus creating the Unearthed Urban. Lightweight utility garments combine classic workwear and military references and work as versatile layering pieces. Refined, washed cottons and modern synthetic blends move these pieces towards something more sophisticated and urban, styled in tonal colours.
BURNT UMBER
GREIGE HARVEST
OAT
Unearthed Urban is inspired by nature, natural and organic materials and how as people we have recently developed a desire to connect with the world in a more direct way.
JUNIPER
Figure 21
COPPER
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Figure 1 - Own Work (March 2016) Lighting in Urban Outfitters [Photography]
Figure 2 - Own Work (January 2016) Visual
Figure 13 -
Pop Gamers, Sixth Fit Bomber Jacket, 2016. [Digital Image] http://www. whosnext-tradeshow.com/autumnwinter-2016-17trends/ [Accessed 12 April 2016]
Merchandising in Bikini Berlin [Photography]
Figure 14 - Own Work ‘Playful Pop Art Figure 3 - Team Work ‘Sudden Surroundings
Innovators Mood Board’ April 2016
Innovators Mood Board’ March 2016
Figure 4 - Own Work (January 2016) Wall of a stand in Bikini Berlin [Photography]
Figure 5 - Own Work ‘Artisanal Merchants Innovators Mood Board’ April 2016
Figure 6 - Own Work (January 2016) Clothing Rack From a Store in Bikini Berlin [Photography]
Figure 7 - Own Work ‘Subdued Industrial Innovators Mood Board’ April 2016
Figure 8 - Own Work (March 2016) Printed
Figure 15 - Knit and Jersey Forecast, 2016. [Digital Image] http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy. ntu.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/64089/page/2 [Accessed 13 April 2016]
Figure 16 - The Unisex Trend Blurring Gender Boundaries, 2015. [Digital Image] http://www. theguardian.com/fashion/2015/mar/09/unisextrend-menswear-gender [Accessed 10 April 2016]
Figure 17 - Team Work ‘No Pressure Innovators Mood Board’ March 2016
Figure 18 - Men’s Forecast, Minimal
Jumpers in Ursa Minor Store, Nottingham [Photography]
Retro Infusion [Digital Image] http://www. wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/content/board_ viewer/#/64054/page/1 [Accessed 10 April 2016]
Figure 9 - Lazy Oaf Bad Luck Bunny T-shirt,
Figure 19 - Own Work ‘Boys Don’t Cry
2016. [Digital Image] http://www.lazyoaf.com/ catalog/product/view/id/2985/s/lazy-oaf-badluck-bunny-t-shirt/ [Accessed 3 March 2016]
Innovators Mood Board’ April 2016
Figure 20 - Knit and Jersey Forecasr, 2016.
Mood Board’
[Digital Image] http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy. ntu.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/64089/page/2 [Accessed 10 April 2016]
Figure 11 - Rose Noire Crewneck Sweatshirt,
Figure 21 - Own Work ‘Unearthed Urban
Figure 10 - Team Work ‘Instant Illustration
2016. [Digital Image] http://raisedbywolves.ca/ collections/fleece/products/rose-noire-crewnecksweatshirt-black [Accessed 10 April 2016]
Figure 12 - Own Work ‘Clear-Cut Botanics Innovators Mood Board’ April 2016
Innovators Mood Board’ April 2016
BIBLIOGRAPHY Books Kim, E., Fiore, A.M. and Kim, H. (2011) Fashion trends: Analysis and forecasting. London: Bloomsbury Publishing. Ormiston, R. (2014) 50 art movements you should know: From impressionism to performance art. Germany: Prestel Pub. Osterwold, T. and Galbraith, I. (1992) Pop art (big series: Art). Germany: Benedikt Taschen Verlag. Raymond, M. and Martin, R. (2010) The trend forecaster’s handbook. London: Laurence King Publishing.
Additional Sources About- Craig Green (2013) Available at: http://craiggreen.com/pages/about (Accessed: 1 March 2016). Ashish spring/summer 2016 ready-to-wear (2015) Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2016/ ready-to-wear/ashish (Accessed: 1 March 2016). Blanks, T. (2015) Christopher Kane fall 2015 ready-to-wear fashion show. Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashionshows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/christopher-kane (Accessed: 1 March 2016). Blanks, T. (2016) A new poetry in Craig Green’s uniform thinking. Available at: http://www.businessoffashion.com/ articles/fashion-show-review/craig-greens-uniform-thinking (Accessed: 1 March 2016). Botanical art in the 21st century - 8 February to 10 august 2014 (2014) Available at: http://www.kew.org/about/ press-media/press-releases/botanical-art-21st-century-8february-10-august-2014 (Accessed: 15 April 2016). CarrellisonLucy (2015) Craig Green | #BoF500 | the business of fashion. Available at: http://www. businessoffashion.com/community/people/craig-green (Accessed: 1 March 2016). Choo, J. (2015) The Choohound capsule collection | news | Choo world. Available at: http://www.jimmychoo.com/ en/choo-world-news/pf15-capsule.html (Accessed: 3 March 2016). Cochrane, L. (2015) Into the blue: How denim went haute for spring/summer 2015. Available at: http://www. theguardian.com/fashion/2015/mar/08/denim-spring-summer2015-alexa-chung (Accessed: 13 April 2016). Dazed (2016) Craig Green AW16. Available at: http://www. dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/21155/18/craig-green-aw16 (Accessed: 1 March 2016). Digby, J. (no date) R16 - Digby Jackson London. Available at: http://www.digbyjackson.com/pages/resort16 (Accessed: 1 March 2016).
Ginhalation: London fog gives way to cocktail mist (2009) Available at: https://www.lsnglobal.com/seed/article/510/ ginhalation-london-fog-gives-way-to-cocktail-mist (Accessed: 1 March 2016). Julia, P. (2016) Nasir mazhar autumn/winter 16. Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/nasir-mazharautumnwinter-16 (Accessed: 1 March 2016). Karen, H. (no date) Karen Hofstetter. Available at: http:// www.karenhofstetter.com/ (Accessed: 1 March 2016). Kierahintze (2013) Michael Hansmeyer (architect of the first 3D printed room) on TED talks 2011. Available at: https:// kierahintze.wordpress.com/2013/07/30/michael-hansmeyerarchitect-of-the-first-3d-printed-room-on-ted-talks-2011/ (Accessed: 3 March 2016). Lau, S., Colombo, L. and Dazed (2015) Christopher Kane AW15. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/ article/23778/1/christopher-kane-aw15 (Accessed: 3 March 2016). Li, C. (no date) Sustainable 3D-Printed furniture by NOWlab. Available at: http://www.ignant.de/2015/11/11/sustainable3d-printed-furniture-by-nowlab/ (Accessed: 10 March 2016). Orton, K. and Dazed (2013) Scandinavian invasion. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/15696/1/ scandinavian-invasion (Accessed: 1 March 2016). Projekt Samsen - Sonnenbrillen (no date) Available at: http://projekt-samsen.de/ (Accessed: 1 March 2016). Rachio, O.N. (2016) Limited edition Monstera leaf enamel pin | OH NO Rachio! Available at: http://store.ohnorachio. com/product/pre-order-limited-edition-monstera-leaf-enamelpin (Accessed: 1 March 2016). Saunter, L. (2015) Soft Industril. Available at: http://www. wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/58922/ page/9 (Accessed: 12 March 2016). Shrigleyian, Shrigleyesque, Shrigleyish (2012) Available at: http://jonathangray.org/2012/02/21/shrigleyianshrigleyesque-shrigleyish/ (Accessed: 1 March 2016). Szymanska, A. (2016) Male Positivity. Available at: https://www.lsnglobal.com/micro-trends/article/18977/malepositivity (Accessed: 1 March 2016). Weekday (2016) Weekday new day new hope men’s Lookbook Available at: http://colorising.com/?p=30389 (Accessed: 13 April 2016). WGSN (2014a) Daytime Lounge: Men’s emerging trend. Available at: http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/content/board_ viewer/#/144953/page/1 (Accessed: 1 March 2016).
Digital grotesque: Full-scale 3D printed room realized (2013) Available at: http://www.designboom.com/ architecture/digital-grotesque-full-scale-3d-printed-roomrealized/ (Accessed: 3 March 2016).
WGSN (2014b) Prints & Graphics. Available at: http://www. wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/52775/ page/8 (Accessed: 1 March 2016).
First time for 3D printing at the sleep event – we 3D printed a complete hotel room! (2014) Available at: http://www.hobsstudio.com/first-time-for-3d-printingat-the-sleep-event-we-3d-printed-a-complete-hotel-room/ (Accessed: 11 March 2016).
2016, I.N.T. (2016) Moschino designer Jeremy Scott teams up with artists Gilbert & George for AW16. Available at: http://www.itsnicethat.com/news/moschino-designerjeremy-scott-teams-up-with-artists-gilbert-and-george-foraw16-140116 (Accessed: 17 March 2016).
BETHANY O’BRIEN