5 minute read
Ask the Experts
Myth-Buster Masterclass
Three expert practitioners debunk some of the most common misconceptions in aesthetics
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Emma Coleman, aesthetic nurse, Emma Coleman Skin, London IG: @emmacolemanskin
Dr Dev Patel, aesthetic practitioner, Perfect Skin Solutions, Southsea IG: @drdevpatel1
Mrs Sabrina Shah-Desai, aesthetic oculoplastic surgeon, Perfect Eyes Ltd, London IG: @drsabrinashahdesai
DR PATEL SAYS:
This is absolutely false! There is a ‘preventative’ benefit from botulinum toxin (also known as toxin) and skin boosters. Even certain dermal fillers may boost collagen and delay the appearance of fine lines. I tell my patients to think of such treatments as an anti-wrinkle cream – you wouldn’t want to wait until you see the lines to start using it! So many patients wait until they have obvious lines and folds that are causing serious confidence issues, but often if the patient had started earlier, they would likely have never reached that stage. There is no need to start years beforehand, but if you do get in earlier rather than later, it can help prevent the lines appearing and getting as bad as they might otherwise have. If you are looking to prevent ageing, injectables that stimulate collagen and elastin production whilst increasing hydration are perfect! Skin boosters such as Belotero Revive, Profhilo and Sunekos are good options here, as well as collagen stimulating dermal fillers such as Radiesse. Of course, toxin (injected into the muscle) is great for softening and preventing large expression lines which cause wrinkles over time.
"Getting a surgical procedure lasts forever"
MRS SABRINA SHAH-DESAI SAYS:
This is unfortunately untrue! Usually, surgical procedures last between seven to 10 years and the longevity depends on the individual's ageing, for example the decrease in fat on the body and face, sagging skin. Surgery does not stop the continued facial soft tissue and bone from ageing; therefore, this will change the way the surgical results look over time. Some ‘permanent’ procedures may be naturally undone. Liposuction will remove fat deposits, but you are still likely to gain weight in the treated areas, which depending on the amount of weight gained, can make the results disappear.
NURSE COLEMAN SAYS:
It is true that men have very different facial requirements and end goals to women. However, an experienced and skilled medical practitioner will know how to assess and treat all individuals appropriately and will tailor their treatment method to the patient. A
Nurse Coleman
man can therefore have masculine results, if they wish, perhaps creating a chiselled and taut appearance through restoring the bone structure with dermal fillers, thereby maintaining a subtle, natural result.
MRS SABRINA SHAH-DESAI SAYS:
False! Dermal fillers can be used on men to treat deep frown and smile lines at the sides of the mouth (nasolabial folds), filling deep hollows under the eyes (tear trough) and add definition to the jawline and chin for a more chiselled appearance. Make sure that the aesthetic practitioner you pick has had experience treating male faces as the anatomy of the face differentiates from women.
“I can’t get rid of my dark under-eye circles”
NURSE COLEMAN SAYS:
Whilst the dark pigment of the skin cannot be completely erased, there are options for disguising darkness and hollows around the eye. Dermal fillers can be injected into the undereye area or ‘tear trough’ which aim to hydrate and plump it in a subtle way, creating support and thereby hiding the darkness and improving hollow, dark circles. Another option is mesotherapy. This treatment involves a practitioner injecting micro-doses of a mixture of nourishing ingredients into the skin or fat tissues. These ingredients include hyaluronic acid and tissue-building proteins which encourages rejuvenation, skin tightening, and improving the skin’s appearance. Radiofrequency can also be beneficial for those experiencing excess skin under the eyes alongside darkness, as it tightens the area, reducing puffiness and pigmentation. I recommend the Pellevé and Exilis Ultra 360 machines for maximum results, but there are lots of devices available and you should conduct your own research.
MRS SHAH-DESAI SAYS:
This is a myth! There are a variety of options available to getting rid of under-eye dark circles. From topical eye creams to peels and platelet-rich plasma (PRP) therapy. This treatment involves a small amount of blood being taken, processed, and then injected back into the body to stimulate healing and regeneration. All are great options for reducing dark circles due to skin hyperpigmentation. PRP is great for reducing dark circles and eyebags whilst also plumping and tightening the area. For moderate to severe hollows and eye bags, fillers and surgery can be considered. Fat in the lower lid can be removed or repositioned through a cut hidden in the natural lower lid crease or surface of the lid. But, however dark your circles are, there are numerous options to consider, so speak with a medical practitioner about your concerns first!
DR PATEL SAYS:
You do want to have desired active ingredients in your skincare; but be warned! Just because they are labelled as an ingredient, doesn’t mean they will necessarily work! Ingredients in skincare products must have a ‘clinically effective concentration’, meaning that they need to have a high enough percentage of the ingredient for it to have an effect. Many companies will simply advertise that their product contains certain ingredients, but the desired active ingredient(s) may be very low down on the list, for instance in a sub-therapeutic concentration. This is known as ‘dusting’. A simple tip is to look at where the active ingredients appear in the list. Just like food labelling, if these appear low down (near the preservatives), this is likely an example of ‘dusting’! There are a few other factors to look out for when it comes to skincare, and the best thing to do is to seek a consultation with an aesthetic practitioner or a dermatologist so you can get trusted advice.
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