Beyond magazine Issue 21 Summer 2016 by Beyond Magazine

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T H E

B E Y O N D

E MOTION

OWNER AND GENERAL MANAGER Pascale Choueiri Saad

12 THE BEASTLY TRUTH

COOWNER Ronald Saad

16 LEBANON, IT’S TIME TO HEAL

EDITORINCHIEF Pascale Choueiri Saad

20 SAFE TO SWIM?

CHIEF ENVIRONMENTAL CONSULTANT Edgard Chehab

T E A M

ENVIRONMENTAL CONSULTANT Bassam AlKantar

ESSENCE

60 EXHILARATING, NATURALLY 68 THE OTHER SIDE OF LEBANON 109 CAMBODIA: KINGDOM OF WONDER

COPY EDITOR Jody Jaffe ART DIRECTOR Lamia Maatouk RESPONSIBLE DIRECTOR Antoine Hajj CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Tamara Batshon, Alia Fawaz, Bassam AlKantar, Sanya Shahrasbi, Nabil Michel Barbir, John Gray, Nour El Hachem, Sania El Kadi, Dianna Tannoury, Johanna Salem. GUEST PHOTOGRAPHERS Phillippe Khoury, Olivier Scheffer, Elsa Sattout, all rights reserved.

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" Take a break, turn off the computer, turn off the phone, don't look at a screen, go to a forest, touch a tree..."

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

As usual, it's difficult for me to write this letter from the editor without making it really personal. However, this time I prefer to keep things purely professional, and let me explain why. You see, these past few months haven’t been the easiest in this part of the world, and in times of uncertainty, in days of darkness and hopelessness, the only way to keep on going is to focus purely on work. Isn’t this something that we all do, anyway? There’s this desire to not want to hear any news about anything, a wish to avoid seeing what’s going on and to act as if nothing has happened. It is, quite simply, a need for silence. Yet some say that it is in this silence that we can find the world’s greatest violence. Why? Because in this state of denial, which has been our reality for so long now, only chaos ensues. And in this chaos, a mute form of violence exists. I can feel it in our daily mentality. It has become the new norm. It is a calm indifference towards a world that is collapsing all around us. Our silence is pitted against the barrage of daily news featuring terrorists, massacres, bombs, religious hatred, and more. In our sacred silence we can at least reassure ourselves that there’s nothing happening. There are no sounds, no actions, no visions of pure evil. In such despairing times, I think about what we have been able to achieve and what we still can achieve. I remind myself of what is out there, and of the people and friends with whom I have the good fortune to work. These are people whom I not only respect and admire, but who are true inspirations in the deepest sense of the word. Above all, I look to the skies and remind myself how lucky and blessed I am to be able to sense what the air feels like just after the storm. Time and again, and forevermore.

MAIN CONTRIBUTORS

EDGARD CHEHAB With 17 years of experience in the environmental field, Edgard Chehab is a renowned name in local and regional green circles. He is the assistant resident representative and manager of the Energy and Environment Program of UNDP, Lebanon. He is also the advisor to the Ministry of the Environment. Beyond is lucky to have Mr. Chehab as its environmental consultant and dear friend.

BASSAM KANTAR A seasoned Lebanese journalist, Bassam Al Kantar frequently writes about the environment, information communication technology, and human rights. Beyond's environmental consultant is the managing editor for greenarea.me. He strongly believes that the free press can, of course, be good or bad, but, most certainly without freedom, the press will never be anything but bad.

SANIA EL KADI

French-lebanese, has been living in France for 30 years. Holds a master's degree in International Relations (AUB), Ph.D. in Public Law (La Sorbonne). Appointed to UNESCO as deputy to the Ambassador representing Palau in 2012.She works with an international team: Nabil Barbir (Luxembourg), Johanna Salem (Canadian) Ali Al Rifai (Lebanese) Sanya Shaharasbi (Iranian) Hannah Beineke (USA). She promotes Palau and the Pacific region within UNESCO, France but also in the Gulf region (Dubai) and during Cop22 to take place in Morocco.

NOUR EL HACHEM

Nour El Hachem has been Head of the Legal Department of Middle East Airlines since 2012. She is a passionate defender of the environment, believing that nature is God’s kindest gift to humanity. Having obtained a master’s degree in international and comparative law of the environment from Limoges University (France) in 2006, El Hachem argues that Lebanon’s legal system should be used to protect the country’s green spaces. She urges all Lebanese to work together to preserve the natural treasures that God has bestowed on them.

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MAIN CONTRIBUTORS

DIANA TANNOURY

In her contributions to Beyond, Diana Boudargham Tannoury continues to push her poetic license to the next level. With a master’s degree in international communications and international relations from Boston University, Mrs. Boudargham Tannoury enjoys writing short stories and poems in the hope that her words will help raise awareness about nature’s fragility.

ALIA FAWAZ

Alia Fawaz is a freelance writer based in Beirut with a passion to see a greener, cleaner Lebanon. Can we influence others to be environmentally responsible? Trying to answer this question is both a challenge and the source of inspiration for her as a regular contributor to Beyond. She covers the increasing renewable energy projects and eco-initiatives in the country and shares snippets of natural wonders from around the globe.

JOHANNA SALEM

Born in France, Johanna lived in Lebanon before moving to Montréal where she studied environmental engineering. Passionate about sustainability, she has travelled extensively in Europe, Southeast Asia, the Caribbean and North America. She seeks out off the beaten track destinations that support conservation efforts and local communities. Currently, she is working at UNESCO with the delegation of Palau and the group of small island developing states on UN Sustainable Development Goals projects. She is focused on the preparation for the upcoming Climate Change Conference in Morocco.

SANYA SHAHRASBI

Sanya Shahrasbi holds a Bachelor of Arts in Integrative Biology and International Area Studies from the University of California, Berkeley and has since been working at the Delegation of the Republic of Palau to UNESCO. She also contributes to the non- profit organization, Island Ark Project, which works to digitalize intangible cultural heritage in Small Island Developing States. She aspires to keep exploring and studying different parts of the world.

NABIL MICHAEL BARBIR

Graduated in Political Science from Concordia University (2015). Currently residing in Paris, working as attaché at the Permanent Delegation of Palau to UNESCO.

E M O T I O N

THE BEASTLY TRUTH Man's evil tendencies May just be innate WORDS TAMARA BATSHON

We have opened our eyes to a world that is wicked. Humans have perpetually been responsible for abominable acts, such as the nefarious deeds committed by ruthless dictators, genocide, wars, slavery, and murder. It seems that our world is replete with suffering and misery. Why does evil exist? Is evil behavior only seen among humans? If we put religion aside for a moment, can we trace this evil trait to the evolution of our species? Philosophers, theologians, scientists and perhaps even you have often pondered these questions. Experts, including a group of psychologists led by Del Paulhus and Kevin Williams at the University of British Columbia, have categorized

“evil” behavior. They have defined a “Dark Tetrad” that includes Machiavellianism (manipulative and deceptive behavior), psychopathy, narcissism, and sadism. Paulhus and his team have looked at many studies over the years to see whether these traits are also present in animals.

People of today and tomorrow need this enthusiasm [of wonder] if they are to meet and master the crucial challenges, which stand before us. Thanks to this enthusiasm, humanity, every time it loses its way, will be able to lift itself up and set out again on the right path. In this sense it has been said with profound insight that "beauty will save the world" (§16) – Pope John Paul II in his Letter to Artists under the heading “The Saving Power of Beauty.”

A beast does not know that he is a beast, and the nearer a man gets to being a beast the less he knows it." - George MacDonald, from The Princess and Curdie.

Machiavellianism Dario Maestripieri from the University of Chicago has been studying monkeys extensively for 20 years. In one study on rhesus macaque monkeys, he found that their tactics for attaining power are not much different from those of infamous political tyrants. Alpha males, who rule the other macaques in the troop, use threats

and violence to hold on to the safest sleeping places, the best food, and access to the females in the group with whom they want to have sex. Like human dictators determined to hold on to power, dominant monkeys use frequent and unpredictable aggression as a form of intimidation. Maestripieri believes that every individual monkey appears to have the capacity for devious behavior. However, he claims that this behavior is part of who they are. A much more basic Machiavellian trait exists among simpler species too, such as reptiles that camouflage themselves to avoid predators, insects that mimic others in order to catch prey, or flowers that give off scents to attract pollinators. Psychopathy The famous animal researcher Jane Goodall made an alarming discovery when she was studying chimpanzees. She found a mother and daughter pair – known as “Passion” and “Pom” – who cannibalized eight infants over four years. Other experts looked into this case and labeled it as an antisocial personality disorder. However, it is still much debated whether infanticide is

19 Sadism A study by Wilson showed signs of sadism being displayed by dolphins. He often observed dolphins

Sea otters also have been reported to show psychopathic behavior. California Department of Fish and Game biologist Heather Harris and her colleagues have reported 19 individual cases of male sea otters trying to mate with, and often fatally injuring and even killing, harbor seal pups in the Monterey Bay area between 2000 and 2002. One reason for this phenomenon could be that sea otters are polygynous (meaning that males mate with multiple females, whereas females mate with only one male, resulting in competition during breeding season) in an area where the female otters may be outnumbered by the males. This means that during breeding season mature males are denied mating opportunities, so they take out their frustrations on the young harbor seals.

swimming under the water striking seagulls that were sitting on the surface. It could be said that this was done as an act of play, without the dolphins realizing that it actually hurt the birds. Palhus associates the origin of sadism with childhood play. He observed that animals that play with their victims donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t kill them, but instead they torture them. Cats also occasionally do the same with mice. This means that young animals play with their victim as a child, and later on kill them when they become adults. It could be said that all sadists are displaying a form of innate behavior that originated in their childhood.

Beauty is mysterious as well as terrible. God and devil are fighting there, and the battlefield is the heart of man." - Fyodor Dostoyevsky Narcissism When we think of vanity, we assume that this is a characteristic that is

an actual behavior abnormality or an adaptive reproductive strategy among animals.

It is not titles that honour men, but men that honour titles." Niccolo Macchiavelli

limited to humans, but it is seen among animals too, such as the male peacock parading its lavish tail or the sultry dance of the male bowerbird. These outward self-centered signs of â&#x20AC;&#x153;look at meâ&#x20AC;? are part of evolution, which is related to the ultimate quest to mate in order to reproduce and survive. In other words, all living things are in a race for gene survival and the narcissistic behavior is a strategy. While examples of evil behavior may be observed in animals, such behavior is generally beneficial for the survival of genes and species. Clearly it is more about survival for animals than it is about pure, unadulterated evil. This begs the questions: If bad behavior is natural and successful among animals, is it acceptable for humans?

LEBANON, IT'S TIME TO HEAL the push for post-war reconciliation WORDS ALIA FAWAZ

While many Lebanese still have unresolved issues from their war-torn past, they are also dealing with ongoing sectarian rifts, a presidential vacuum, and an overwhelming influx of Syrian refugees who are competing for the country’s already scarce resources and services. In the face of all of these challenges and unresolved war issues, UNDP decided to launch the “Peace Building in Lebanon” project in 2007. The project works towards enhancing mutual understanding and social cohesion by working directly with youth, educators, media, NGOs, and local leaders. Its mission is to disseminate the right information while engaging and bringing people together in developing strategies towards building peace. The complex and unique context of Lebanon – the civil war (1975-1990) and the lack of reconciliation and a framework for sustainable peace that followed it- encouraged the UNDP to create this unique and multi-faceted project. The organization wanted to look at the root and historical causes of conflict as well as the current causes of conflict. To do so it decided to work on two tiers: on a grassroots level dealing with local communities, and on a national level dealing with leaders and policy-makers. Education and knowledge One of the strategies is working with schools (through the Ministry of Education). Joanna Nassar, the initiative’s project manager, explains, “We train teachers on nonviolence and peaceful resolution of conflicts and we teach students to respect one another and to accept and deal with their differences.” These efforts, involving the teachers, students, and their parents, are aimed at sowing the seeds for

a more tolerant society, which hopefully will bring peace for future generations. Nassar also points out that one school (in Ghbaireh) was so inspired by the project that it is even going the extra mile by declaring a year of “non-violence”’ issuing a dedicated newsletter and giving prizes for parents to encourage non-violence with their children. Other schools have been inspired to draft peaceful codes of conduct for how teachers and students should behave, for example. Another project directly addresses the civil war, which led to more than 200,000 deaths, and which is not mentioned in Lebanese history schoolbooks. Historians worked hard to piece together a cohesive curriculum to suit Lebanese of all backgrounds, but political disagreements over the content prevented the book’s distribution. “This has meant that the post-war generation knows about the war mainly from its parent’s often personal point of view,” says Nassar. She adds, “This means that if the parents harbor hatred due to personal incidents, the hatred is transferred to their children.” In order to address the historical narrative in an informative and objective way, which is crucial for peacebuilding, UNDP launched “The Bus Takes the Podium” initiative in 2011. Using a bus (to represent the symbolic Ain Al Rummaneh bus shooting that allegedly ignited the war), UNDP and local NGO UMAM (which possesses a substantial archive on the Lebanese war) toured the country. The idea was to make this vehicle into a memory bus. The bus was equipped with computers directly linked to UMAM’s archives, and toured for a whole year in 2012, going to various villages, hosting debates and gatherings for young people.

" We must see that peace represents a sweeter music, a cosmic melody, that is far superior to the discords of war. - Martin Luther King, Jr.

23 Media influence The project also engages frequently with the media. In the early days it worked on building skills of the journalists, such as what language to use and how to report objectively. However, these days it is working more on creating platforms on which they can share their voices. One key project is the “Joint News Supplement” produced every three months and distributed with An-Nahar, As-Safir, L’Orient-Le Jour, and The Daily Star newspapers. It is a collection of articles from different journalists that cover topics not commonly covered in newspapers. Objectively they address the different challenges in Lebanon – covering stories about the Lebanese and more recently also stories about the Syrians living in Lebanon. It tries to highlight the many success stories, which are not reported by the mainstream media.

would have liked to be put on trial and sent to jail for what they did, but after the war ended they were not charged. They strongly feel that now they have a chance to redeem themselves and compensate society for whatever atrocities for which they were responsible during the civil war. The role of UNDP is to help them build their skills so that they can run their NGO. UNDP is also helping them with communication skills (many did not finish school), as they are visiting schools and giving talks to the youth. Acting like ambassadors of peace, but able to communicate on a street level, they go and speak to disillusioned and disenfranchised youths who want to fight and start a new sectarian war. These fighters present the stark and ugly reality of their experience to these youths, and most of the time by the end of the session the students begin to think differently.

In 2013 the program developed a pact for journalists to promote civil peace. It established a guideline for how the media should speak and behave in order to promote peace. This covers the language and terminology that is used, the attitude in front of the camera, and the topics that are covered in the media. “Thirty-four national media outlets – TV, print, radio and websites – took part in designing it and they all signed it,” says Nassar. The Maharat Foundation was then appointed to monitor all the media outlets that signed on, and on a monthly basis it produces a report making it possible to verify whether they are abiding by the pact or not.

There are also often very controversial sessions during which the audience members are directly affected by the ex-militiamen making the presentation. Nassar said: “In one incident an audience member stood up and said to the former militiaman, known as Ziad, ‘you put a bomb in this village that killed my parents.’ Ziad then went and spend two full days with the man and his family,” explains Nassar. These types of reconciliations have rarely happened in Lebanon and to date there has been no information regarding many kidnapped persons and no tribunal for justice. “Soon the NGO will launch its new website, which is also funded by UNDP,” says Nassar. While this project remains controversial and many political parties do not wish to participate in it, it is slowly and surely paving the way for important dialogue and information sharing that could help the country to heal and find answers to many unresolved questions.

Healing and ex-fighters Another current and sensitive project that it handles involves ex-fighters. Around 25 former militiamen and fighters (now in their 50s and 60s) from different political parties have volunteered to take part and form an NGO. Ironically they claim (in a statement that they issued on You Tube) that they

" Daenerys Targaryen: [to her khalasar] I am Daenerys Stormborn of House Targaryen, of the blood of Old Valyeria. I am the dragon's daughter, and I swear to you that those who would harm you will die screaming." "Game of Thrones: Fire and Blood (#1.10)" (2011)

DRAGONS NOT FOR SLAYING Meet the iguanas froM galapagos WORDS JOHN GRAY

For many people scuba diving is a passion that draws them into the world of amazing wildlife. You can meet sharks, puffer fish, sea turtles, clownfish, blue tangs, and plenty of other iconic sea creatures at close range. But every now and then you see something that takes you by surprise as it looks as though it could be from another planet. The Galapagos Islands are most often associated with Charles Darwin, as they were the source of inspiration for his groundbreaking theory of evolution. Located off the coast of Ecuador, they are an archipelago of nineteen islands that are tips of volcanoes that began emerging from the ocean some five million years ago. The limited number of plants and animals that exist there today are said to be descended from castaways that arrived by sea or air. One of those species is the rather otherworldly looking Galapagos marine iguana. Scientists believe that it descended from South American land-dwelling iguanas that must have drifted out to sea on logs or other debris, eventually landing on the Galapagos. These unique iguanas are the world’s only marine lizard and can only be found in these islands. At first glance the marine iguanas resembles large lizards with a similar form and scaly skin. But actually they are very different, having developed traits to adapt to their harsh environment. They have evolved blunt noses so that they can graze on seaweed underwater, laterally flattened tails for swimming, and powerful limbs with strong claws to assist in clinging to the volcanic rocks. They also have obelisk-shaped dorsal scales running from the head to the tail. Fierce-looking but gentle Their famously unattractive features made even Charles Darwin describe them as “hideous-looking” and “most disgusting, clumsy animals” in his work. Their wide-set eyes, smashed-in faces, punk-like spiky dorsal scales, and knotty salt-encrusted heads makes them look quite menacing, but don’t be fooled. Whereas they look fierce, they are gentle herbivores that survive on underwater algae and seaweed. They are also dark in color (ranging from dark gray to black) to better absorb sunlight after being in the icy Galapagos waters. However, during mating season they have blotches of coppery green and red on their scaled body. They also have special glands that clean their blood of any extra salt that they ingest and razor-like sharp teeth so that they can scrap algae off rocks. When cornered by an attacker the iguanas actually squirt water at their enemy, which shoots out of their noses. It could be said that this behavior resembles the dragons of fairy tales often described with steam snorting through their nostrils. Can they survive? Experts are wondering just how long the marine iguana can survive on the islands, which are becoming increasingly populated by people. Today it is estimated that there are about 250,000 of them distributed on all the islands. They don’t face mammalian predators themselves, but they are under constant pressure from non-native predators such as rats, feral cats, and dogs, which feed on their eggs and young. It is said that humans on the islands are also a big threat, albeit unintentionally. This is because since the marine iguana developed over time in a relatively safe environment, it does not have strong immune systems. This leads to a higher risk of the iguanas’ catching infections to which they are not accustomed. In addition, as their environment didn't have many natural predators, the marine iguanas have never developed the defenses that are needed to help protect them against new enemies. Darwin’s theory of the survival of the fittest would seem to suggest that the iguana could be the loser in this battle for life. Today the iguanas are well protected throughout the archipelago and are considered to be threatened with extinction, as their population has been gradually decreasing. Let’s hope that the inhabitants of the Galapagos make sure that these unique and remarkable creatures will not face additional threats so that they can thrive and live peacefully in their beautiful habitat.

" Daenerys Targaryen: When my dragons are grown, we will take back what was stolen from me and destroy those who wronged me! We will lay waste to armies and burn cities to the ground! " "Game of Thrones: Garden of Bones (#2.4)" (2012)

" Daenerys Targaryen: Where are they? Where are my dragons? "Game of Thrones: The Old Gods and the New (#2.6)" (2012)

SAFE TO SWIM? the danger lurking in lebanon's waters WORDS BASSAM ALKANTAR

The Lebanese coastline extends over 240 kilometers in length. The coastal area, which constitutes around eight percent of the total area of the country, comprises 33 percent of the total built-up area in the country. It is home to 55 percent of the total population. Experts have observed approximately 17,000 marine species occurring in the Mediterranean Sea. Hundreds of Mediterranean species of phytoplankton, algae, lichens, mushrooms, phanerogams, zooplankton, and benthos exist. In addition, 21 species of cephalopods, four species of turtles, and six marine mammals have been reported. Lebanon’s coast suffers from winter storms, extraction of sand from beaches, establishment of landfills and ports, recreation and encroachment on public lands, all of which reduces the proportion of marine sediments and leads to sediment environmental scarcity. Small numbers of sandy beaches are left in good condition: Batroun, Jbeil, Al Muaameltein, and Tyre in the South. Threats to the great potential offered by the coast already exist, such as uncontrolled urban sprawl, increased privatization of the shorefront, reduced public access to the beach, solid waste dumping, wastewater discharges, and sand extraction. If immediate and appropriate measures are not taken to mitigate the effects of natural processes and human activities, the marine environment along the coast and the quality of life of its inhabitants will deteriorate. Lebanon’s marine and coastal ecosystems continue to suffer from an ever-increasing range of threats, including coastal urbanization, land and sea-based sources of pollution such as sewage and oil dumping, habitat degradation, an increasing demand for marine resources, invasive species, and larger-scale impacts such as global climate change. In addition to untreated sewage from cities and towns, coastal zones are also affected by large seafront dumpsites in Tripoli (still active but contained), Bourj Hammoud (which will be reopened soon), Ouzai (established by the cabinet on March 2016), Sidon (closed and rehabilitated) and Tyre (active). Untreated sewage Coastal waters in Lebanon receive untreated sewage from at least 53 major sewage outfalls, spread along the coastline, of which 16 lie within the Beirut area. Coastal waters receive an estimated 162 million cubic meters per year of untreated sewage (equivalent to 276,000 cubic meters per day), which is equivalent to 65 percent of the total sewage load in Lebanon. About 70 percent of Lebanon’s population, plus hundreds of thousands of refugees each year, contribute to this sewage stream. Although Lebanon has made progress in building sewage treatment plants along the coast, none of them are operating at design capacity. The cost of environmental degradation of random discharge of untreated sewage is estimated at one percent of GDP.

WHERE SHOULD YOU GO THIS SUMMER?

ANFEH

BYBLOS JOUNIEH BEIRUT

SIDON

TYRE

The Pollution of Lebanese Beaches Akkar: Good condition. Tripoli: Very polluted. Anfeh: Very good condition. Chekka: Very polluted. Batroun: Good condition. Jbeil and Amchit: Very good condition. Jounieh: Very polluted (via the sewers). Nahr el Kalb: Good condition. Ramlet el Baida: Very polluted. Jiyeh: Fair. Damour: Good condition. Sidon: Good condition. Naqoura and Tyre: Excellent.

Study carried out by the National Centre for Marine Sciences Map source: Libanews, Franรงois Bacha

31 Be careful where you swim! Lebanonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beaches suffer from dangerous levels of contamination by fecal coliform bacteria in many public areas and resorts in the country, according to yearly testing conducted by the National Centre for Marine Sciences. Unsafe levels of fecal coliform bacteria can lead to rashes, diarrhea and vomiting and can spread disease depending on the extent of exposure. It has reported that the water is unsafe for swimming, well above international safety limits, in 20 areas. The center has been testing the water since 1980. Thirty representative sites of the coastal region are selected. Physical, chemical, bacteriological and biological analyses are carried out monthly (two times per month during the summer). An annual sitesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; classification is established according to different types of degradation. The only beaches in Lebanon that are around 90 percent safe are in Enfeh in Northern Lebanon and Naqoura in Southern Lebanon. Lebanonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s public beaches are shrinking, partly because of infringements on the public maritime domain. Coastal erosion, mainly in north Lebanon, is also affecting beach quality and access. Bathing water is affected by several pollution streams (sewage outfalls, thermal plants, industries, etc.) and therefore there is a pressing need to monitor its quality. Industrial pollution Additional pollution of coastal waters stems from coastline thermal power plants (Beddawi, Zouk, Jiyyah, and Zahrani) and the presence of heavy industries along the coast. The Biochemical Oxygen Demand (BOD) load from industrial wastewater is estimated at 5,000 tons per year. Waters near industrial sites show high levels of the heavy metals arsenic, lead, zinc, and chromium. The highest levels have been found near the Dora industrial complex, mainly as a result of the presence of a tannery industry there. Very little has been achieved with regard to treating industrial wastewater before discharge into the municipal streams, rivers, and the sea. The growing urbanization has also resulted in the production of increased levels of untreated wastewater and solid waste, particularly in the coastal region.

SALT IN THE AIR, SALT IN MY HAIR

MONSTROUSLY GREEN italy's forest of fairy-tale proportions WORDS JOHN GRAY

Tucked away in the Medieval Italian town of Bomarzo, around 100 kilometers north of Rome, lies an exceptional forest dotted with colossal mythical creatures and optical illusions that make one think of Alice in Wonderland. Sacro Bosco (Sacred Woods), also known as the Park of Monsters, is a breathtaking fantasy forest and arguably the world’s first theme park. Build in the late 1500s, Sacro Bosco was the vision and creation of a noble patron, Duke Vicino Orsini. As he was grieving the untimely passing of his beloved wife, Giulia Farnese, he was driven to make something truly special in her honor. To carry out his ambitious ideas, Orsini commissioned Pirro Ligorio, the best architect around at the time. It was he who had finished work on the St. Peters Basilica in the Vatican after the death of Michelangelo. Using mammoth blocks of peperino (a greenish brown volcanic rock), and at times the existing bedrock of the massive garden, Ligorio worked for many years. A labyrinth of stone figures The result of his labor was a spellbinding maze of stone figures with no particular rationality in their positioning or theme: You will come across a huge elephant crushing a Roman soldier in a re-enactment of Hannibal’s journey over the Alps, a massive ogre with its mouth menacingly wide open, and Pegasus rising from a fountain. There are also sculptures of a giant turtle, a mermaid, winged horses, sea monsters, Neptune, giant wrestlers, a whale, and a sphinx, among other curious stone figures. Then all of a sudden you will encounter a comical tilted house that does not fit in with the mythical theme, making it quite a fascinating labyrinth with no clear explanation for the visitor. There are, however, some random inscriptions that might provide some clues. One inscription on an obelisk says that the area is sol per sfogare il Core (“‘just to set the heart free”), while other sculptures have allusive verses by various famous Italians from the 16th century, many of which are now eroded and hard to read. Many people claim that the park of Bomarzo was not created to please but rather to shock people, and perhaps it even served as a symbol of opposition to the immaculate symmetrical gardens of that time, such as the nearby Villa Farnese and Villa Lante. After a long period of neglect spanning the 19th and 20th centuries, the park was beautifully restored and reopened to the public in the 1970s, with the new nickname “Park of Monsters.” Today it is widely appreciated as a mesmerizing green sanctuary that blends ancient mythology and fantasy.

We are part of the Earth and it is part of us

Fantastical sculptures Instead of carvings on stone, sculptures generated from different plants were featured at the MosaĂŻcultures Internationales MontrĂŠal exhibit at the Montreal Botanical Garden. This exhibit consisted of 50 spectacular horticultural sculptures from around the world. The stunning works of art reflected the culture of its participant and carried an important environmental message illustrating how humans, animals, and nature interact with one another both in the past and present. A shepherd guarding his sheep, a medieval pagan god, Mother Earth, a dance of cranes, and endangered orangutans and birds, were just some of the nature themes that were represented. The beauty, attention to detail, and artistry of these botanical sculptures is truly impressive.

47 MOSAICULTURES INTERNATIONAL 2013 MONTREAL,BOTANICAL,GARDEN EARTH MOTHER

A TRUE STORY

THE MAN WHO PLANTED TREES

49 PLANTING PLANE TREES TO ATTRACT THE PHOENIX

THE HAND OF MOTHER EARTH

CIAO BELLA! the authentic italy lies off the beaten track WORDS JOHANNA SALEM

If you have ever visited Italy, then you have certainly gazed in stupor at the great Colosseum of Rome, taken pictures of yourselves by the Leaning Tower of Pisa, ridden a gondola in Venice, eaten pizza in Naples, or gone shopping in Milan. However, have you ever taken the time to stop in one of Italy’s authentic rural villages? Ecotourism is a new specialty form of tourism that is gaining more popularity with travelers who want an experience that is different from the classic, allinclusive, resort vacation. These travelers opt for a more authentic and sustainable style of travel that enables them to discover natural environments and to support local conservation efforts. Sustainable tourism, or ecotourism, is the concept of discovering new places while leaving a positive impact on the local society and its economy, and without compromising the environment. It is a style of travel that is socially responsible and that is gaining more and more popularity among young travelers as well as among groups of luxury vacationers.

Agriturismo is the way to go In Italy, agriturismo, a particular niche of ecotourism, has been on the rise owing to the country’s natural beauty. Agriturismo is distinct from ecotourism in that it is strictly focused on healthful cuisine, organic goods, and local produce. In the past, rural agriturismo accommodations were strictly limited to rustic farm stays, with little amenities provided. Today, the interest in agriturismo in Italy has grown, and it attracts international visitors from all around the world. Farmers are benefiting from this interest to increase business at their lodgings by improving the quality of their products and by providing lavish, five-star star amenities such as spas, Jacuzzis, and swimming pools. Agriturismo has come to include stylish luxury resorts and classy rural retreats in order to meet the demand for luxury, natural, rural tourism. Upon arrival at the farm, the guests are greeted by the farmer who explains the sources and the production processes of the delicious authentic food that they will be enjoying during their stay. After touring the local wineries and olive

fields, the guests are invited to enjoy a relaxing afternoon at the spa. Talk about the best of both worlds! Levanto, a village north of Cinque Terre, is an example of “the perfect getaway” located off the western coast of Italy. Choose to stay in an agriturismo accommodation and you will enjoy the best breakfast that you’ve ever had in the utmost serene setting. During the day, you will get to visit one of the many medieval castles and old churches before heading to the beach. In case you are not a beach person, the village offers amazing trails for day-long hiking or biking trips. Staying in Levanto will be an incomparable, authentic experience that is sure to meet your expectations. If you want to escape the hustle and bustle of city life and experience the most tasteful food while relaxing in rural Italy, then agriturismo is for you. What’s also great about agriturismo is that you don’t really have to wait for the summer to go visit, as these establishments are constantly in demand, even in midseason! So, what are you waiting for?

" Travel makes one modest. You see what a tiny place you occupy in the world.â&#x20AC;? - Gustave Flaubert

" Fill your life with experiences, not things, have stories to tell, not stuff to show.

SAY HELLO TO THE REAL YOU reconnect with a sense of wellbeing WORDS NABIL MICHAEL BARBIR

Work, sleep, repeat. This is what most human lives look like in today’s capitalist world. After school and the university, young adults are thrown into a world over which they have no control. Right away, they worry about university loans, the rent, the electric bills, the telephone and Internet bills, not to mention food and basic survival needs. This is all before having families to feed, educate, and shelter. Therefore, straight out of the university, young women and men are driven to a life of work. Year after year, they adapt and find their specific routines. Though the work day ends at 5:00 p.m. or 6:00 p.m. for most people, the bills keep coming. In order to escape from this unending nightmare, they find solace in bars and nightclubs, in outings with friends, in travelling on weekends if possible, etc. Unfortunately, fun, recreation, and leisure always come second to work. One needs to find a certain balance in today’s world. It is very easy to fall prey to the ideals of productivity and efficiency that govern our societies. We tend to focus on what we have to do to the detriment of the things that we want to do. At the risk of sounding somewhat like a cliché, I think it goes without saying that no man or woman on his deathbed has ever thought, “I should have worked more”. Rather, one would expect something like, “I wish I had taken some more time off to enjoy and appreciate the world and the people around me.” This is not to say that you must not work - on the contrary, human beings need work to keep them going, to keep us interested and alive. It is to say that once you have worked to provide for the survival of yourself and your family, spend some time coming to know yourself as a specific human being. Spend some time having leisure, doing the things that you do not have to do to survive. Engage in play, in the fine arts, in the humanities, in politics, or be religious, if you feel so inclined. Classical and Mediaeval culture was of the view that to be human meant to elevate oneself above the work-a-day world and to enter into the realm of leisure. The meaning of leisure Leisure is about living alongside other human beings in a way that is unnecessary and ought not to be viewed as absolutely required. That is what the founders of our civilization, namely, the ancient Athenians, believed. Only human beings could temporarily escape the world of work and of necessity, and it was their calling to do so once they had provided for their survival. In Aristotle’s Ethics, he distinguishes between work, play, relaxation, and leisure. Play and relaxation are forms of relief from hard work. Leisure is more than just relief; it is the medium in which happiness and a life of good quality can be pursued. If leisure consisted simply in play and relaxation, then a life of good quality—the end goal for which

man strives—would be nothing more than play and relaxation. Let that thought sink in, notice here how this changes how you look upon the world in which you live, how it affects your values, and leads you to have second and third thoughts about whether it is absolutely necessary that you enter the “rat-race” every morning. You should take the time required to cultivate yourself, and to spend time on transforming yourself through education and leisure. In the past, as well as today, leisure has been associated with the field of psychology based on an individual’s overall psychological well-being. One researcher, Albert Bandura, states that “leisure experiences are essential to growth and development throughout the lifespan.” If we were to look at Maslow’s hierarchy of needs, we would find that leisure is key to achieving well-being and a state of self-actualization. Well-being is an individual’s overall feelings based on his or her own life satisfaction, happiness, fulfillment, contentment, achievement, stress, and coping mechanisms. It is important to understand that mental well-being means different things to different people, but regardless of the definition, participating in leisurely activities affects an individual’s overall well-being. Leisure comes in many shapes and sizes. It can take the form of yoga or meditation. It is about allowing yourself to have time for introspection and self-development. Get to know yourself as a person–your wants, needs, fears, mental and physical obstacles, problems etc. Take a few minutes of every day to listen to music. Put your earphones on and get into a relaxed state, allowing each and every note to move you and lift you above and away from the mundane and the habitual. Aristotle suggests that music helps to promote the proper use of leisure. While music is not directly useful, it helps man make use of his leisure. Similarly, the practical tools of reading, writing, and drawing can have applications beyond their usefulness, and they can also widen man's knowledge and teach him to appreciate form and beauty. In my own personal opinion, travel is the best form of leisure, even if it is just for a weekend. Escaping the monotony of everyday life and discovering a new place, a new culture and way of life is, to me, invaluable. Saint Augustine once said, “The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page.” However, travel doesn’t necessarily mean taking a plane and leaving your country or geographical area. It can be a simple camping trip where you put away your smartphones and laptops. It is about disconnecting from our everyday life. It is about escaping the constant bombardment of advertisements, sounds, noises, and overwhelming stimuli that one experiences living in an urban setting. Cesare Pavese, an Italian poet, once wrote: “If you wish to travel far and fast, travel light. Take off all your envies, jealousies, selfishness, and fears.” To travel is to take a journey into yourself. Leave everything behind and just go.

READY TO GO WILD? africa's sanctuary of natural beauty WORDS ALIA FAWAZ

There are plenty of exceptional safari destinations throughout Africa that are worth exploring. One of them is the Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania, which is found within the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. It is the greatest self-contained wildlife sanctuary in the world, and it is unlike anything else on the African continent. Once a gigantic volcano, the Ngorongoro Crater is a massive, fully intact caldera (collapsed volcano) that extends for 20 kilometers bordered by steep slopes that are 600 meters tall. On the base of this crater is a stunning and dramatic landscape of golden savannah plains and spectacular lakes fed by freshwater springs. Here you will find a huge diversity of wildlife, including species that are not present in the neighboring and more famous Serengeti plains. Some experts believe that before the volcano mountain erupted, it would have been higher than Mount Kilimanjaro, the highest peak in Africa. Long since having collapsed and eroded, this threemillion-year-old caldera is teeming with life, protected by the high crater walls and the moderate climate. It houses towering euphorbia clinging to the crater walls, while fever and fig tree forests on the crater floor provide shade for an incredible array of animals, with plentiful water and grass for them to feed on. A diversity of wildlife You don’t have to look hard for wildlife as an estimated 25,000 large mammals call it their home. Plenty of black-maned lions can be spotted on the grasslands, while buffalo can be seen from miles away, stampeding in their glorious herds. The more elusive leopards and cheetahs may be seen sprinting for prey or sitting perched on the rocky kopjes. The giant tusked elephants are usually nestled in the forests at the crater’s rim feeding on the bark of the acacia trees. And by the edge of the soda lakes, a crowd of pink flamingos comes to rest and quenches its thirst. You can also spot the smaller animals such as the golden and black-bared jackal and the serval, which can be seen during the day, despite being nocturnal animals. Human ancestors Not far from the heart of the wildlife – in the Great Rift Valley, between the Ngorongoro Crater and the Serengeti National Park – lies the Olduvai Gorge, another famous landmark. Paleoanthropologists flock here, as the site holds the earliest evidence of human ancestors. Hundreds of fossilized bones and stone tools in the area dating back millions of years have been unearthed. Experts believe that Homo habilis, the first early human species, occupied this area approximately 1.9 million years ago. There is also a fascinating museum at the site where you can learn more about the discoveries made in the early 20th-century. These discoveries provide important insights into our very distant ancestors, who evolved in Africa. From the earliest human life to the most spectacular collection of wild animals, Ngorongoro is steeped in history and awash with natural beauty. No doubt it is one of those magical destinations that should not be missed in a lifetime.

E S S E N C E

EXHILARATING, NATURALLY where the hills have thrills WORDS JOHN GRAY

Hiking outdoors is both a pleasurable activity and an excellent physical workout. The breathtaking views, fresh air, and the sounds and smells of nature engage all our senses and enable us to detox from stress. From towering, majestic trees and hidden lakes to gorgeous mountain views, hiking trails expose us to a wealth of natural wonders. Here we look at several fantastic hiking destinations from around the world, which offer exhilarating outdoor adventures and a taste of the locationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history and culture.

PACIFIC CREST TRAIL, CALIFORNIA, OREGON, AND WASHINGTON - USA

Distance: 4,265 kilometers The Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) takes you from Mexico to Canada through California, Oregon, and Washington. It reveals the beauty of the Mojave Desert, the glaciated expanses of the Sierra Nevada, deep forests, and it provides commanding vistas of volcanic peaks in the Cascade Range. This hike is a real challenge – especially the

weather conditions – but the reward is a grand tour of seven national parks and a continent’s worth of national forests, state parks, and wilderness areas. This long hike is normally begun in April and finished in October, and most hikers begin on the Mexican border. The trick is to miss the spring snow in the Sierra Nevada and the fall snow in the Cascades.

" Never hesitate to go far away, beyond all seas, all frontiers, all countries, all beliefs.â&#x20AC;? - Amin Maalouf

THE ANCASCOCHA TRAIL, PERU

Distance: 49 kilometers Located near the world famous Inca Trail to Machu Pichu, the Ancascocha Trail in the Peruvian Andes is far more strenuous, less crowded, and a more rewarding path. It has the most amazing panoramic views of the Andes Mountain range, complete with waterfalls from melting snowcapped-mountains, and it includes tours of several Inca ruins. The trek takes roughly five or six days, meandering through traditional villages

such as Chillipahua and Ancascocha, which are located at an altitude of 3,900 meters. Along the way, it climbs over big passes, including a high point of roughly 4,900 meters on Inca Chiriaska, and takes in views of the towering, 6,300 meter-high Salcantay Mountain. This trail, however, doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t actually end at Machu Picchu, so you need to take a short bus and train ride to get there. Spring and fall months are the best times for this hike.

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK, NEPAL

Distance: 64 kilometers This two-week trek to Everest Base Camp and back has become increasingly popular. It is an achievable goal for people from all walks of life who want a glimpse of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s highest peak. The route passes through the heart of the Khumbu region and enters its lively, little capital, Namche Bazaar. From here, the trek heads up past smaller villages, such as Pangboche, with its famed Buddhist monastery, before topping out at 5,400

meters at base camp, with the summit towering over 3,400 meters above. Aside from breathtaking scenery, travellers to the region can experience unique Sherpa culture by visiting monasteries and museums along the way and experience the warm Nepalese hospitality. The best time to go is in early spring until the monsoons start in May. However, September to November after the monsoon season can be beautiful as well, and less crowded.

OVERLAND TRACK IN TASMANIA, AUSTRALIA

Distance: 64 kilometers (82 kilometers with the hike around Lake St. Clair) Part of the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area, this trail takes you through some of the wildest and most beautiful natural terrain in the world. As nearly half of Australia’s southern island state is protected, it’s a living ecological laboratory. Its incredible wildlife includes the wombat, platypus, and the famous Tasmanian devil, the largest

carnivorous marsupial on the planet. It’s also an incredibly diverse landscape, encompassing everything from highland mountains, alpine lakes, and Eucalyptus groves to rain forests. The trail and surrounding park are well managed by Tasmania Parks and Wildlife Service, which breaks it down into a six-day event. The prime season for this hike is October to May, while the winter months can be a bit rough.

" The only true voyage of discovery is not to go to new places, but to have other eyes.â&#x20AC;? - Marcel Proust

LAUGAVEGURINN/FIMMVÖRÐUHÁLS PASS, ICELAND

Distance: 55 kilometers (80 kilometers with Skógar extension) This four-day hike runs between the Landmannalaugar hut in the north and Thórsmörk Park in the south, with an option to start or end at the stunning 60- meter high Skógafoss waterfall. Few hikes offer the pure wilderness experience of Laugavegurinn, which

passes through spectacular volcanic landscapes, paired with stays at comfortable huts each night. In between, there are steaming fumaroles, expanses of lichen-covered volcanic rocks, and gorgeous views of coppercolored rhyolite peaks. The best time to do this hike is in summer, when the huts are open in late June until early September.

MACLEHOSE TRAIL, NEW TERRITORIES, HONG KONG

Distance: 100 kilometers One normally does not associate Hong Kong with hiking, as it is one of the most densely populated places on the planet. However, the surrounding New Territories are rural and quiet, dotted with rugged peaks, remote valleys, and ocean coastlines. The MacLehose Trail is divided into ten sections, starting at the stunning eastern beaches before climbing

up into tropical mountains (where monkeys chatter from the branches) and then winding past 1,000 meterhigh Tai Mo Shan, the highest peak in the area. It takes five to six days to complete the trail, which has stone steps and paths, free campgrounds, and occasional food vendors offering some comfort along the way. The best time to go is in the winter season, as the summer can be very humid.

THE SIR SAMUEL AND LADY FLORENCE BAKER HISTORICAL TRAIL, SOUTH SUDAN TO UGANDA

Distance: 805 kilometers One of the longer trails, which retraces the expedition of Sir Samuel and Lady Florence Baker — the first Europeans to arrive in Lake Albert and name it after Queen Victoria’s late husband — 150 years ago. Carefully researched for historical accuracy, the trail begins in South Sudan’s current capital city of Juba and follows the Bakers’ routes along the White Nile

into Uganda, ending at Baker’s View, over Lake Albert, and takes in natural wonders such as Murchison Falls, which interrupt the Nile with a 43-meter drop as it flows to Lake Victoria. Most of the trail goes through Uganda, which is relatively safe for hikers considering the previous civil war that raged on the Sudanese side. Winter months are recommended for making this historic hiking trip.

" On a hike, the days pass with the wind, the sun, the stars; (...) On a hike, you're less a job title and more a human being....A periodic hike not only stretches the limbs but also reminds us: Wow, there's a big old world out there.â&#x20AC;? - Ken Ilgunas,

LEBANON MOUNTAIN TRAIL, LEBANON

Distance: 470 kilometers The Lebanon Mountain Trail (LMT) is the first long-distance hiking trail in Lebanon. It extends from Qbaiyat in the north of Lebanon to Marjaayoun in the south, a path that transects more than 75 towns and villages at altitudes ranging from 670 meters to 2,011 meters. The LMT showcases the natural beauty and cultural wealth of Lebanon's mountains, and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s managed to promote environmentally and socially responsible

tourism. Many locals even open their homes as guesthouses along the route. The LMT is divided into 26 sections, each of which is 12â&#x20AC;&#x201C;20 kilometers long and can be hiked in one day, mostly trekking through oak and pine-forested paths. Included in the LMT is the spectacular Shouf Biosphere Reserve, which contains the largest natural Cedar reserve in the country and covers 50,000 hectares (five percent of the total area of Lebanon).

THE OTHER SIDE OF LEBANON Where authenticity is truly at home WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY ELSA SATTOUT

Do we always need to go back to where our roots as humans lie and search for the heritage value of places that we visit to find a sense of belonging that replenishes our souls? When traveling to destinations, are we not looking for genuine experiences and searching for iconic places, flagship monuments, landmarks, or even stories? More than a decade ago, travel was slower, and the journey enabled us to experience the exceptional and collect things that were picked up along the way. Little souvenirs brought back from trips, perhaps hand-made objects or mouth-watering delicacies, are treasures that remind us of our journey. They reflect the soul of the local artisans, and their value comes from the time that was invested to produce them. Lately, globalization and an open market have eliminated the pleasure of carrying these treasures of traveling. So, we are in search of experiences: things that cannot be bought, traded, or shipped. We are also seeking historical places where we feel at home, places where we can create social bonds and that take us away from the artificial world with which we interact so often today. Guesthouses take us back in time Overwhelmed by today’s busy lives, we dream about what will be our weekend destination - searching for peace of mind away from the same squares around which we ramble all our lives and the constructed world in which we live today. Guesthouses are touristic attractions in themselves that take us back to a time when simplicity was a luxury and traditions were a source of joy and originality. In Lebanon, there are many guesthouses that offer diverse landscapes, delicious breakfasts made of local ingredients, and a bunch of stories hidden in their arches, walls, and ceilings.

For those who prefer to stay near the capital, Beit Marsala (http://www.hotelibanais.com/bed-and-breakfast/beitmarsala-jeita/) is only a short 40-minute drive from Beirut, in Zouk Mosbeh. It is a space filled with artistic expression of all sorts and it reveals the life story of a passionate caver. The house was originally owned by one of the founders of the oldest caving club in the Middle East. The exterior of the house, painted in pink hue, is a beacon within 3,000 square meters of green garden. Enjoy the isolation from the outside world and identify with the surrounding nature. If Lebanon’s coastal landscape is tempting you to relax by the sea or to walk in the old cities of Al Mina in the North and Tyre in the South, find your comfort in Beit El Nessim (http://www.beitelnessim.com/aboutus.html) or in Dar Alma (http://www.hotelibanais.com/bed-andbreakfast/dar-alma-hotel/). Beit El Nassim will bring back stories of one of Lebanon’s oldest cities, Al Mina, which dates back to the Phoenician Era. This guesthouse preserves the unique style of the old houses in the city. Here you can enjoy healthy gourmet breakfasts while sitting either in its walled garden, on a rooftop terrace, or in the interior courtyard. Charming designed spaces and furnished rooms inspire comfort and the stillness of the mind and soul that you can acquire from the yoga and meditation classes that are offered. Dar Alma, a 19th century traditional Lebanese house, is located in one of the oldest neighborhoods of Tyre. The house was literally built on the edge of the shore, and most rooms offer a sea view with private access to the beach. While wandering around the narrow streets, the whispers of old fishermen fill your ears.

79 BOUYOUTI

BEIT NESSIM

BOUYOUTI

ABDELLI TERRACES

LA MAISON DU BONHEUR

81 For an adventure coupled with going back in time to 16th century traditions, head into the hills to Deir Al Qamar, the “City of Emirs” in the Shouf region. The area is home to some of the country’s iconic touristic attractions such as the Palace of Beiteddine, which feature the history and culture of Mount Lebanon. Staying in one of the area’s charming guesthouses, La Maison du Bonheur (www.lamaisondubonheurbnb.com) and Bouyouti (http://www.hotelibanais.com/bed-andbreakfast/bouyouti-beiteddine/), gives the guests the opportunity to experience various things, from wellness to getting to know the culture and traditions of residents and city dwellers originating from Deir Al Qamar. Upon stepping inside La Maison du Bonheur, the colors of the flowers and their scents transform our senses. The indoor space reflects the joyful spirit of the owner, Ama Samir Tabet. The breakfast served in the guesthouse’s gardens offers traditional meals including dried goat yogurt, which is called “Ambriss.” Its garden extends over 2,700 square meters and is surrounded by colorful bouquets of plants and fruit trees. In Bouyouti, the refined taste of its designer, Roula Bazergi, and the beauty of her mind and spirit are reflected in the 10 individual guesthouses distributed within an area of more than 20,000 square meters. Each house feels like home, and all of them are connected to each other with paved trails or stairs that can take you to an area where you can enjoy swimming

and sun-bathing at 800 meters. If you awake before dawn, hundreds of songbirds will inspire you to get out of bed for a silent walk around the colorful terraces. For clement temperatures and sea breezes during the four seasons, head to Batroun District to be hosted in Abdelli Terraces (http://www.hotelibanais.com/bed-andbreakfast/abdelli-terraces/), only a 20-minute drive from the highway in Madfoun. The guesthouse is part of a typical Lebanese village that was abandoned during World War I and it is located at an altitude of 600 meters. The guesthouse offers a panoramic view of rolling, forested hills, woodlands, vineyards, and agricultural terraces that makes it an ideal place for relaxation and culture. Enjoy a modernized authenticity and hundreds of flowering patches. At the end of the weekend, you might feel that you don’t want to wake up from the dream. Nevertheless, the experience that we live in these places replenishes our soul and body. You may leave sometimes with another dream, that of being an eternal traveler moving all around the world and staying in guesthouses. Would that state of mind be similar to that of the shepherds and fishermen, whose state of mind is also one of the eternal traveler with a free spirit, a defined purpose, but no luggage to carry, which enables them to move about as light as feathers?

" What does poetry do? What is its purpose? To me, poetry is essential because poems have literally changed the way in which I look at and listen to the world. There are poems that, when I read them more than once, have slowly and with time revealed to me places of my own personal experience. There are poems that I have read over and over again, knowing that they contained some secret knowledge that I had yet to discover, but refused to give up on. Poetry is important because it makes us think; it inspires us to meditate on our lives and to reconcile ourselves with a world that we take too much for granted. Moreover, poetry renews and deepens the gift that most surely makes us human: the imagination. This is crucial because the more imaginative that we are, the more humane we become â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and that, without a doubt, is the highest virtue of all. In this issue, Beyond magazine celebrates poetry through twelve selected poems. P.C.S.

I AM THE SUN

" Awaken your eyes full of slumber, admire how I rise With golden rays I sprinkle a landscape so black with night Creatures of the dark flee at my first glimmer of light It shines and glows on nature so wise Valleys of vibrant colors await my warmth in sleep At dawn, petals and leaves upturn their faces To a shimmering radiance so deep Illuminating the skies and shielding traces Of stars that lost their thrones at dawn's break To return to their beds and rest till their hour of wake From the East, slowly I appear Revealing in my ascent all that you hold dear Asleep in your arms, in your thoughts cradled Erasing the night, it's ravages disabled I am the Sun, rise and see me in all my glory The eye of the universe beholds me For billions of years, your mother, I protected In my embrace, she warmed In her womb, she nurtured you And with every new morning, Earth and Sun still watch over you. Diana Tannoury

“HOPE” IS THE THING WITH FEATHERS

" “Hope” is the thing with feathers That perches in the soul And sings the tune without the words And never stops - at all And sweetest - in the Gale - is heard And sore must be the storm That could abash the little Bird That kept so many warm I’ve heard it in the chillest land And on the strangest Sea Yet - never - in Extremity, It asked a crumb - of me. Emily Dickinson

LOOKING FOR YOUR FACE

" From the beginning of my life I have been looking for your face but today I have seen it Today I have seen the charm, the beauty, the unfathomable grace of the face that I was looking for Today I have found you and those who laughed and scorned me yesterday are sorry that they were not looking as I did I am bewildered by the magnificence of your beauty and wish to see you with a hundred eyes My heart has burned with passion and has searched forever for this wondrous beauty that I now behold The Love Poem of Rumi

A PLACE LIKE THIS

" It is an early morning I need an island in the sea, Away from you away from me, Beyond the waves beyond the wind, Beyond the world that we live in, Under skies of shining stars, Away from lights and noisy cars, Above the egos and the stress, Beyond the world we made a mess. A place for me a place for you, An earth that's green a sky that's blue, A place for you a place for me, An open sky and light blue sea, With dreams as solid as the ground, A place like this I think I've found. A happy thought no one can take it, A place like this is where we make it. I need a mountain in the sky, Just beneath where angels fly, Where snowflakes falling on the ground, Is the most disruptive sound, Above the waves above the wind, Above the world that we live in, Above my life above the stress, Where I can lay it all to rest,

89 Under skies of falling snow, Just above the world below, Just above the trees and birds, A place I can't describe in words. An empty place that's so appealing, How'd I get this stupid feeling? Bad ideas come and go, But none as potent as the snow, I need no island in the sea, Just the things that make me me. I need no mountain in the sky, Just to laugh try not to cry, Forget these far off fantasies, And manifest as realities, Reach out and grab it in good time, Seize the moment make it mine, Catch the moment make it last. Just be grateful when it's past. Sensations as real as the wind, Try not to be sad when it ends. A happy thought no one can take it, A time like this is when we make it. I need an island in the sea, And all of that which makes me me." by Milo Shumpert

A DARK WOOD

" Midway upon the journey of our life I found myself within a forest dark, For the straightforward pathway had been lost. Ah me! how hard a thing it is to say What was this forest savage, rough, and stern, Which in the very thought renews the fear. So bitter is it, death is little more; But of the good to treat, which there I found, Speak will I of the other things I saw there. I cannot well repeat how there I entered, So full was I of slumber at the moment In which I had abandoned the true way. (Inferno, Canto I) By Dante Alighieri, 1265 - 1321

BLOOM

" I want to tell you about the sunflower I found on the sidewalk yesterday. It is wilting and curled and gorgeous and knows it. I want to age like that, never forgetting my own beauty, never forgetting how to say bloom. Anna Voelker

I CARRY YOUR HEART WITH ME

" I carry your heart with me (I carry it in my heart) I am never without it (anywhere I go you go, my dear; and whatever is done by only me is your doing, my darling) I fear no fate (for you are my fate, my sweet) I want no world (for beautiful you are my world, my true) and it's you are whatever a moon has always meant and whatever a sun will always sing is you here is the deepest secret nobody knows (here is the root of the root and the bud of the bud and the sky of the sky of a tree called life; which grows higher than soul can hope or mind can hide) and this is the wonder that's keeping the stars apart I carry your heart (I carry it in my heart) EE Cummings

A BOWL OF ROSES

" It was a bowl of roses: There in the light they lay, Languishing, glorying, glowing Their life away. And the soul of them rose like a presence, Into me crept and grew, And filled me with something â&#x20AC;&#x201D; someone â&#x20AC;&#x201D; O, was it you? William Ernest Henley

INVICTUS

" OUT of the night that covers me, Black as the Pit from pole to pole, I thank whatever gods may be For my unconquerable soul. In the fell clutch of circumstance I have not winced nor cried aloud. Under the bludgeonings of chance My head is bloody, but unbowed. Beyond this place of wrath and tears Looms but the Horror of the shade, And yet the menace of the years Finds, and shall find, me unafraid. It matters not how strait the gate, How charged with punishments the scroll, I am the master of my fate: I am the captain of my soul. William Ernest Henley. 1849â&#x20AC;&#x201C;1903

A GIRL

" The tree has entered my hands, The sap has ascended my arms, The tree has grown in my breast Downward, The branches grow out of me, like arms. Tree you are, Moss you are, You are violets with wind above them. A child - so high - you are, And all this is folly to the world. Ezra Pound

" IF you can keep your head when all about you Are losing theirs and blaming it on you, If you can trust yourself when all men doubt you, But make allowance for their doubting too; If you can wait and not be tired by waiting, Or being lied about, don't deal in lies, Or being hated, don't give way to hating, And yet don't look too good, nor talk too wise: If you can dream - and not make dreams your master; If you can think - and not make thoughts your aim; If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster And treat those two impostors just the same; If you can bear to hear the truth you've spoken Twisted by knaves to make a trap for fools, Or watch the things you gave your life to, broken, And stoop and build 'em up with worn-out tools: If you can make one heap of all your winnings And risk it on one turn of pitch-and-toss, And lose, and start again at your beginnings And never breathe a word about your loss; If you can force your heart and nerve and sinew To serve your turn long after they are gone, And so hold on when there is nothing in you Except the Will which says to them: 'Hold on!' If you can talk with crowds and keep your virtue, ' Or walk with Kings - nor lose the common touch, if neither foes nor loving friends can hurt you, If all men count with you, but none too much; If you can fill the unforgiving minute With sixty seconds' worth of distance run, Yours is the Earth and everything that's in it, And - which is more - you'll be a Man, my son! Rudyard Kipling

MY EARLIER LIFE

" I've been home a long time among the vast porticos, Which the mariner sun has tinged with a million fires, Whose grandest pillars, upright, majestic and cold Render them the same, this evening, as caves with basalt spires. The swells' overwhelming accords of rich music, Heaving images of heaven to the skies, Mingle in a way solemn and mystic With the colors of the horizon reflected by my eyes. It was here I was true to the voluptuous calm, The milieu of azure, the waves, the splendors, And the nude slaves, all impregnated with odors, Who refreshed my brow with waving palms My only care to bring to meaning from anguish The sad secret in which I languish. Charles Baudelaire

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THAT SINKING FEELING a rising sea level is placing lives at risk WORDS JOHN GRAY

There has been much talk about rising sea levels impacting coastal areas. In one part of the world this is a stark and terrifying reality. In the Solomon Islands there are places where entire houses have been washed away in water, and their inhabitants have been forced to relocate to other islands. In fact, five small islands there have disappeared entirely in the last two decades. The average rise in sea levels in this region has been recorded at 10 millimeters, as compared with the global average rise of three millimeters. The Solomon Islands, an archipelago of 992 tropical islands and atolls, are under threat. The sea level rise and king tides have affected various parts of the country, destroying food gardens, homes, and water sources for the inhabitants. Already five islands have vanished completely. The missing islands - Kakatina, Kale, Rapita, Rehana, and Zollies â&#x20AC;&#x201C; no larger than 50,000 square meters â&#x20AC;&#x201C; were not inhabited, but were occasionally used by fishermen. Scientists were able to discover this by using time series aerial and satellite imagery between 1947 and 2014 on thirty-three of those islands as part of an extensive study led by Dr. Simon Albert, a senior research fellow at the University of Queensland.

The threat of erosion However, there are an additional six other islands where significant areas of land have been washed into the sea and that are facing severe erosion. Out of these, two islands have had their entire villages wiped out, forcing the locals to relocate to neighboring islands. One was Nuatambu Island, home to 25 families, which has lost 11 houses and half of its population since 2011. The inhabitants moved to a neighboring higher volcanic island. Navaro Island has seen people move out for the same reasons. In addition to these village relocations, Taro, the capital of Choiseul Province, is set to become the first provincial capital in the world to relocate residents because of the threat of sea-level rise. Albert warned that while global sea levels were rising by an average of three millimeters per year, that figure could increase to seven millimeters by the end of this century with rising temperatures causing ice sheets to melt. This will lead to thermal expansion of the oceans. Albert even warned that the rest of the world could face the same fate as these islands by 2100.

101 LILISIANA VILLAGE, MALAITA PROVINCE

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U'FU RIVER IN NORTH MALAITA PROVINCE, SOLOMON ISLANDS

103 TETEPARE ISLAND IN THE SOLOMON ISLANDS

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HOT ENOUGH FOR YOU YET? the alarMing Menace of global warMing WORDS JOHN GRAY

Ten years ago former US Vice President Al Gore shocked the world with his documentary An Inconvenient Truth, which painted a dire picture of the damaging effects of global warming. If anything the award-winning documentary served as a wake-up call that sparked international public awareness about global warming. It was no longer a topic that was debated only among scientists. Everyone suddenly became curious about the alarming trend. Today, while many advances are being made to reverse global warming, the road is arduous and long. Here’s a summary of some of the issues and developments. We can say that the biggest culprit is carbon emissions - no question about that. Carbon dioxide released by burning fossil fuels and other greenhouse gases are warming the world at a rapid rate. There has been a 40 percent rise in atmospheric carbon dioxide (CO2) since pre-industrial times. And what’s more, in these last ten years CO2 levels have increased by six percent. This translates into more heat trapped in our atmosphere, which is not good news. Carbon emissions and rising sea levels All of this heat means that glaciers melt faster and water temperatures increase, causing oceans to expand. Already 14 of the 15 hottest years ever recorded have occurred since 2001. Last year was the hottest year on record, and 2016 is expected to be even hotter. As the temperature increases, the sea levels will keep rising and eventually nearly half the global population, which lives near the coast or within 60 kilometers of it, will be at risk. The rising sea levels means that cities and towns are immersed in water as storms intensify and more extreme flooding occurs. Can you imagine the doomsday scenario when big cities start flooding? Do you recall Hurricane Sandy in 2012 in the East Coast of the US? Well, rising sea levels means that this kind of storm will climb higher and reach farther inland. In other words, brace yourselves, as future hurricanes will cause more damage. The global average sea level currently rises about three millimeters per year, but if carbon emissions aren’t curtailed that figure could increase to a meter and maybe more by 2100.

106 Heat waves and droughts As the planet continues to warm up, deadly heat waves will increase. Experts claim that climate change will increase humidity in many places, as well as causing higher temperatures. And as temperatures rise, more moisture evaporates from land and water, leaving less water behind. Some places are getting more rain or snow to make up for it, but other places are getting less. Since the 1970s, droughts have become longer and more severe throughout the globe, and scientists expect that trend to continue. Dwindling agricultural production in certain high-population areas such as parts of Africa and Asia could lead to food shortages that could spark more refugee crises. What is being done? While the current outlook and statistics so far may not sound encouraging, a great deal has actually been achieved in the last decade. To think optimistically, there have been plenty of positive developments: climate science has advanced, renewable energy technology is growing rapidly, and there is more international cooperation. Renewable energy, such as solar and wind, is now cheaper than fossil fuel-based electricity in many parts of the world, and many more governments are pledging to shift to renewables. Solar panels are becoming widespread all over the world (and getting cheaper), while in some countries electric cars are gaining popularity. There have been also numerous agreements to reduce emissions, such as the Kyoto Protocol, Copenhagen, and more recently the COP21, which for the first time obtained commitments from the biggest carbon emitters â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the US, China, and India â&#x20AC;&#x201C; to agree on targets for reducing carbon emissions. We know that global warning can be reversed. No doubt it will take a tremendous collective effort, but if there is a will there is certainly a way. There is simply too much at stake for us not to make a 100 percent effort.

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ASIA'S SECRET GEM caMbodia offers a treasure trove of enchantMent WORDS TAMARA BATSHON

Cambodia may not be as popular among tourists as neighboring Thailand and Vietnam, but this country is a true jewel of Southeast Asia. Cambodia has a wealth of enchanting archaeological sites, beautiful towns, and gorgeous waterways. Its people are also known to be among Asia’s most friendly and welcoming people. This beguiling nation, which was once the center of Asia’s most magnificent early civilizations – the Khmer Empire based in Angkor – has plenty to offer for adventure-seeking holidaymakers. New scientific research should make Cambodia even more appealing to tourists. If you go there, these are some of the key spots that are not to be missed. Angkor Wat Angkor Wat, located in Angkor, is the ancient temple complex in northeast Cambodia that appears on the country’s flag. The Angkor temple ruins, which

sprawl across the UNESCO-protected Angkor Archaeological Park, are the country’s top tourist destination and one of the few artifacts that remain from the 12th century. Considered the most extensive urban settlement of pre-industrial times, and boasting a highly sophisticated water management system, Angkor’s decline has long been investigated by archaeologists. A hidden past is revealed near Angkor Wat Thanks to advanced laser technology, scientists have recently discovered entire cities in Cambodia dating back 900-1400 years ago, buried beneath the dense jungle. We now know that several vast medieval underground cities lie not far from Angkor Wat. The Australian archaeologist Dr. Damian Evans, whose findings were published in the Journal of Archaeological Science, used cutting-edge light detection technology known as lidar to conduct his research in the region.

He used lidar scanners to fire lasers to the ground from a helicopter and measure how long it took for each pulse to bounce back, creating an extremely detailed 3D model of the Earth’s surface. This technology can penetrate dense forest canopies to detect buildings as well as the remains of roads, aqueducts, caves, and manmade borders between different areas. Some experts believe that the recent data, which is the most extensive airborne study ever undertaken by an archaeological project, covering 1,901 square kilometers, shows that the massive, densely populated cities would have constituted the largest empire on earth at the time of its peak in the 12th century. For years, experts have assumed that the ancient Khmer civilization collapsed in the 15th century when invading Thai armies entered Angkor

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tHe ancient temple of angKor Wat, a unesco World Heritage site near siem reap, cambodia

Historical arcHitectural designs at elepHants terrace and tHe leper King terrace at angKor tHom

111 ancient ruins of bapHuon temple. it Was built in tHe 11tH century as tHe state temple

elepHants terrace and tHe leper King terrace at angKor tHom

112 Wat, forcing populations to relocate to southern Cambodia. But Evans said that his laser maps showed no evidence of relocated, dense cities in the south, and that it wasn’t clear that there had been any such mass migration. His findings are expected to challenge theories about how the Khmer Empire developed, dominated the region, and then declined. All this newly discovered information will eventually cause history books and touristic guides of Cambodia to be rewritten. Phnom Penh Set on top of a 27-meter tall hill, Wat Phnom, the iconic Buddhist temple, has become the symbol of the capital city Phnom Penh. According to legend, Daun Pehn, a wealthy widow, recovered a large hollow koki tree trunk from the Mekong River and found four statues of Buddha inside. She then had a section of her property elevated so that she could make a shrine for these statues. Today people commonly come here to pray for good luck and success in school exams or business. When a

wish is granted, the faithful return to show their gratitude with jasmine flowers or a bunch of bananas (things the spirits are said to enjoy). The magnificent Royal Palace is a complex of buildings that covers an area of 183,000 square meters. Today it is the official residence of King Norodom Sihamoni. Towering spires and ornate gilding that is typical of the classic Khmer architecture characterize the buildings. Between the buildings you have immaculate French-style landscaped gardens. The Silver Pagoda, also known as the Praeh Vihear Keo Morokat to locals, lies within the grounds of the Royal Palace. It was constructed in 1962 by former King Sihanouk to replace the wooden pagoda built by his grandfather in 1902. It is called Silver Pagoda because of its 5329 silver floor tiles, each weighing more than a kilogram. It also has an impressive Baccarat crystal-adorned Buddha that sits in a gilded pedestal and another made almost entirely of gold and decorated with nearly 10,000 diamonds.

Officially inaugurated by King Sosowat in 1920, the National Museum of Cambodia is the country’s leading historical and archaeological museum. Built a century ago, the museum comprises four terra cotta colored pavilions in traditional design facing a beautiful garden. It features the world’s finest collection of Khmer sculpture and artifacts dating back to the preAngkorian period. Kampot Province This is one of the most peaceful, pleasant little hideaways in the country. Although referred to as waterfalls by locals, Teuk Chhou Rapids is in fact a series of sparkling natural rapids with clear water that is always cool and fresh. You can have a picnic and relax along the river, where you can choose a covered wooden platform at the water's edge. There are plenty of food stalls to entice you, offering everything from fruit to whole roast chicken and catfish, to banana and coconut roasted in banana leaves (a Kampot specialty). Teuk Chhou Wildlife Educational Park is a sprawling wildlife education

113 a beautiful example of tHe symmetry in traditional KHmer arcHitecture at cambodia's national museum in pHnom penH

royal grand palace in bangKoK, asia tHailand

114 park several kilometers away from the Teuk Chou Rapids. It has 43 species of animals including monkeys, wild boars, ostriches, elephants, lions, tigers and cheetahs. Four years ago Footprints, an Australian NGO, took over the park in order to better care for the animals. As the animals are located in different locations in a large area, it allows visitors to drive in to tour the park. During your stay in Teuk Chheu Rapids you will see a lot of the spiky, strong-smelling fruit known as durian because of the proximity to the Durian Plantation, which lines either side of the road en route. Kampot durian is famous throughout Cambodia for its flavor and sweetness. It is considered superior to Thai durian by Khmer food connoisseurs, and it can cost twice as much as its imported counterpart. The strong taste and smell of this fruit, with its creamy yellow flesh encased in brown spiked skin, can be an acquired taste, and you can find the cheapest and finest durian in Kampot.

Prek Thnout is an ecotourism site that is partially located within Bokor National Park. It features impressive biodiversity including rare and endangered species. The site is entirely run by local villagers and offers amazing scenery. Tourists can follow the boardwalk of the mangrove forests to one of the waterfalls or do a guided walk to learn about the environment, traditional ceremonies, and food cooked by local people. Fireflies often appear at night, making the atmosphere rather special. A collection of French colonial buildings originally constructed as a mountain resort for affluent French colonists in the 1920s, Bokor Hill was later reinvented to house a hotel and casino, a church, a royal residence. and other dwellings. It was later abandoned during the war years, and today the buildings are empty. Visitors can explore the chilling, yet hauntingly beautiful, former resort town with spectacular views and obtain a better

physical understanding of the violent conflict that shaped Cambodia in the 20th century. Bokor Hill Station is located 42 kilometers from Kampot, atop Bokor Mountain in Preah Monivong National Park. Rattanak Kiri Province Yeak Laom Lake is a breathtaking lake that is made from a crater formed after a volcanic eruption over thousands of years ago. A lush jungle surrounds the stunning clear emeraldcolored lake and it is one of the most peaceful locations that Cambodia has to offer. Several wooden piers are built around the perimeter, making it perfect for swimming. The indigenous minority people in the area have always considered Yeak Lom to be a sacred place.

115 gallery in bapHuon temple, part of tHe angKor tHom city

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117 siem reap, cambodia .

old temple pHnom boKorKampot province

118 stupa of His majesty ang duong Was built in 1908 and contains His cremated asHes

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PALAU'S MIGHTY BATTLE (with a little help froM an oscar winner) WORDS ALIA FAWAZ

Imagine swimming with jellyfish, stingless and soft, or diving with thousands of fish, colorfully animated like a box of crayons, or touching dolphins and dugongs as they swim freely in the open ocean. For the twenty thousand inhabitants of Palau, this is a reality. With thousands of species inhabiting its oceans and lands, Palau has one of the most diverse ecosystems in the world—and it is doing everything that it can to protect it. In response to the increased effects of global warming and illegal fishing on their environment, officials and inhabitants of Palau are taking active measures to protect their homeland and their way of life. In 2003, realizing that world leaders were failing to protect the environmental future of the planet, Palauan officials created a program called the Protected Areas Network (PAN). This initiative aimed at uniting the government and the local communities for the common cause of protecting the marine and terrestrial ecosystems. Protected areas, communities, and towns included in PAN have access to the national monitoring system and eligibility to receive national funding. Much of this national funding comes from a “Green Fee” that is paid by tourists as they leave Palau. This was just the beginning of Palau’s fight for the oceans. Two years later, Palau, along with the Federated States of Micronesia, Republic of Marshall Islands, Guam, and the Northern Mariana Islands, established the Micronesia Challenge. Its goal was to conserve at least 30 percent of the land and resources near the coast, and 20 percent of the terrestrial life by 2020— more than double the international standard of 10 percent for both areas. The world’s first shark sanctuary The eyes of the international community shifted towards the Pacific when Palauan officials created the world’s first shark sanctuary. With the increase in illegal shark finning in Asian waters, Palau decided that “the need to protect the sharks outweighs the need to enjoy a bowl of [shark fin] soup." Its initiative encouraged countries from all over the world, including the Maldives, Kiribati, and the Bahamas, to create marine sanctuaries of their own. Last year Palau transformed its entire Exclusive Economic Zone (EEZ), an area prescribed by the United National Law of the Sea as an area specific to the economic enrichment of a country, into a marine sanctuary. This measure served to protect 600,000 square kilometers of ocean, an area slightly larger than France. However, implementing this law has faced many challenges, the major one being the lack of resources to enforce the legislation. For the sake of its environment, Palau has done everything in its power to increase its international visibility. From partnerships with Greenpeace to increased diplomatic ties with the U.S., Australia, and Japan, it has explored methods to capture poachers red-handed. In cooperation with Pew Charitable Trusts, and a British company, the Satellite Application Catapult, Palau has launched a satellite that monitors the oceans and sends the data to a “virtual watch room,” alerting the Palauan coast guard of illicit fishing in its EEZ. So far this project has enhanced Palau’s ability to capture and fine illegal fisherman.

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123 On the international stage The COP21 conference in Paris in 2015 became a platform for the current President of Palau, His Excellency Mr. Tommy Remengesau, to raise awareness about the importance of ocean preservation for the Pacific countries and the world. There he spoke to world leaders about visible changes in ocean levels, species that had disappeared, and poachers who were destroying the marine ecosystems. Palau was the first country to ratify the Port State Measures Agreement, which was adopted in 2009 by the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO). It calls for greater port controls through thorough standards of inspection on foreign vessels. It allows countries to block ships suspected of illicit fishing practices in an attempt to curb illegal, unreported, and unregulated fishing. In the Cities for Climate event in Paris in 2015, hosted by the Mayor of Paris, Ms. Anne Hidalgo, the president of Palau met many prominent international leaders fighting for climate change resolutions. Michael Bloomberg, Al Gore, Robert Redford, Elon Musk, and Leonardo DiCaprio were among the guests who were invited, as well as mayors and officials from all over the world. H.E. Mr. Remengesau met Oscar-winning actor and environmental philanthropist Mr. Leonardo DiCaprio. The two privately discussed the direct effects of climate change on Palauâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biodiversity and an invitation was extended to the actor to come visit. Following their meeting, Mr. DiCaprio, along with his fellow-Oscar winning colleague, Adrien Brody, visited Palau. Mr. DiCaprio and H.E. Mr. Remengesau went diving together and discussed potential partnerships between the Leonardo DiCaprio Foundation and Palau, in particular a way to finance and protect Palauâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s marine sanctuary and the Protected Areas Network. With proper funding, the future of this country should be bright. As the sun sets on this tropical paradise, its wildlife can rest assured that there are people watching over it and fighting for its preservation.

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H O R I Z O N S

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HELPING INDUSTRY CLEAN UP lepap injects momentum to cut down on pollution WORDS VAROUJ TENBELIAN

The industrial sector in Lebanon is an important pillar of the economy. While industrial activities are playing an increasingly important role, their impact on the environment is gradually becoming more visible. According to the World Bank, the estimated cost of environmental degradation in Lebanon in 2011 was around $800 million (equivalent to 3.7 percent of GDP). Although the Lebanese Government, mainly through the Ministry of the Environment, is trying to deal with air and water pollution that are caused by the industrial sector, Lebanon’s track record of enforcement and compliance remains poor. Awareness campaigns and financial incentives remain the most effective tactics used by the Lebanese authorities, awareness being the primary target. Marwan Rizkallah, the project director of the Lebanon Environmental Pollution Abatement Project (LEPAP) at the Ministry of the Environment said: “There are no industries that cause pollution and thus lead to environmental degradation. There are industrialists who are responsible for the pollution and its disastrous consequences. Industries are potential causes of pollution, yes, but industrialists are responsible for the prevention or the causation of pollution. Actually, any irresponsible person can cause pollution by throwing garbage from his/her car or by driving non-fuel efficient cars. Irresponsible behavior and not industries cause pollution.”

A joint effort to control pollution The Lebanon Environmental Pollution Abatement Project (LEPAP) was created following the issuance of the Environmental Compliance Decree (ECD) 8471/2012, when the Ministry of the Environment joined forces with the Central Bank of Lebanon (BDL), the World Bank, and the Italian Cooperation to establish an environmental compliance mechanism for industrial enterprises. LEPAP is executed in coordination with the Ministry of Finance, the Ministry of Industry, the Association of Lebanese Industrialists, the Association of Banks in Lebanon, the Federation of Chambers of Commerce Industry and Agriculture in Lebanon, and the Council for Development and Reconstruction. Rizkallah said: “LEPAP was launched to limit the pollution created by the industrial sector, which is mainly owned by the private sector in Lebanon. It is about securing loans to the industrial sector for generating pollution-free factories. We provide technical consultation and supervision and suggest solutions. If funding is needed for achieving solutions, we help them in applying for concessional loans supported by the BDL through commercial banks to industries. LEPAP loans, which are at near zero interest rate, are provided for a period of seven years, including a grace period of two years.” The Lebanese government has received $15 million from the World Bank and 2.3 million euros have been granted by the Italian Corporation to execute the LEPAP.

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129 The World Bank contribution is provided for the concessional loans to assist the borrower, while the Italian grant involves the establishment of a Project Management Unit (PMU), which is housed at the Ministry of the Environment. “The PMU consists of a project director, a procurement officer, and an accountant, and other specialists are invited when needed,” explained Rizkallah. He added: “The PMU provides free technical assistance to industries to respond to the technical requirements for accessing the loans through the commercial banks and in line with the national regulations. This includes the preparation of Environmental Audits and Compliance Action Plans (EA/CAP).” “The general objective of this project is to provide support to a total of 20-25 enterprises that have been designated to apply for financing under LEPAP,” said Rizkallah. Decree 8471/2002 divided industries into five categories according to their pollution potentiality. The industrial sectors to be covered mainly belong to the first three categories, including cement, the food industry, printing, automation, cosmetics, cable manufacturing, metallic products, the paper industry, and mattresses production. Rizkallah added: “LEPAP is not mandatory. When asked, we send inspection teams, we assess the needs, and in case funding is needed, the LEPAP mechanism is used. We help the industry to obtain the loan with zero interest. To date, six industrial plants have already applied for LEPAP loans. Three have already received loans worth $3 million. The other three have applied for loans that could reach $2 million. These are in process and will soon be verified.” Industries that comply with the environmental standards are certified by the Ministry of the Environment. Rizkallah explained: “They receive a mark like a logo that indicates that the products are in compliance with environmental

standards. This logo is very helpful in marketing and even in exporting the products. In EU countries, for example, such certificates are mandatory. The certificate is renewed every three years and is withdrawn in case inspection shows any breaches of compliance.” Besides assisting the borrower to reduce industrial pollution in targeted industrial enterprises, LEPAP aims at strengthening the monitoring and enforcement capabilities of the Ministry of the Environment. Rizkallah said: “The Ministry of the Environment doesn’t initiate environmental inspections. It’s mainly done during the licensing process or if a complaint about a pollution incident is lodged.” As mentioned before, Lebanon’s track record of enforcement and compliance remains poor. Before 2014, Lebanon didn't have general prosecutors who were specialized in environmental issues. Law No. 251\2014 came to fill this gap, and provided for the establishment of a specialized judicial system. Rizkallah explained: “In accordance with Decree 8633 issued in 2012, we have environment prosecutors and judges. The prosecutor has the right to inspect the enterprise but cannot order closure. Law No. 444/2002 stipulates that the polluter is responsible and can be fined or even jailed in case of environmental crimes.” Rizkallah said: “The World Bank loan and the Italian grant have a duration date that ends in 2018, but this doesn’t end the LEPAP project. It’s an ongoing project and based on its circular 365/2014, additional loans will be provided by the BDL. It’s worth mentioning that the BDL has a strong commitment to the environment through the provision of environmental loans, and concessional loans for controlling pollution in the industrial sector are part of that commitment.”

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FROM AWARENESS COMES IMPACT Moves on the ground to proMote sustainable energy use WORDS VAROUJ TENBELIAN

Environmental degradation and growing scarcity of natural resources are crucial problems that are being encountered everywhere in the world today. Lebanon is no exception. The increase in world population and rapid industrialization have resulted in an increasing global demand for energy. This increased demand has created global environmental concerns mainly related to pollution of the air, the water, and the soil. Governments have to take immediate and effective actions to address these issues. Sustainable use of energy and raising public awareness of this issue have become priorities. There is an ever-increasing need to adapt ways in which energy consumption is reduced and pollution associated with energy use is limited. In 2015, IPT Energy Center (IPTEC), a specialized research center in the fields of energy, oil, and gas that actively strives to enhance knowledge about energy conservation and efficient energy use in Lebanon, signed a three-year agreement with UNDP to collaborate in several areas of common interests related to sustainable and renewable energy, the transportation sector, and the oil and gas sector in Lebanon. Energy Awareness Awards The Energy Awareness Awards were established. UNDP and IPTEC realized the need to reward institutions and organizations, including businesses, civil society, and the academic sector, for their accomplishments

in promoting the sustainable use of energy in four different categories: IEnergy Efficiency and Conservation, IIRenewable Energy, III-Transportation and Fleet Management, and IVSustainability Champions. There is also an Appreciation Award dedicated to public authorities at the local and regional level for their outstanding achievements in the area of renewable energy, energy efficiency, and clean transport. “Through the Energy Awareness Awards, UNDP and IPTEC aim to promote sustainable consumption of energy resources and raise awareness levels about energy-related matters,” said Dr. Toni Issa, the president of IPTEC. He added: “Therefore the main objective of the awards is to recognize efforts put forth by institutions and organizations in reducing their energy footprint and integrating sustainable practices within their respective fields. Ultimately, these initiatives will contribute to reducing air pollution at the local level and to improving environmental performance through the reduction of Greenhouse Gas Emissions (GHG) that contribute to climate change.” The Energy Awareness Awards were launched last year. Applications were received from September 2015 through April 2016. “It’s worth mentioning that though it is its first year, I can say that the application rate in terms of number and categories was quite good,” said Dr. Issa. He noted: “We received more than 40 applications submitted to all

the previously-mentioned categories. Many of them are highly qualified and showcase outstanding projects with proven results and a high replication potential.” “Besides having moral connotations, the rewards also include financial prizes,” said Dr. Issa. He added: “We will select three shortlisted applicants from each category. Winners of the first and second places will receive a financial reward, in addition to a certificate and a trophy. Winners of the third place will receive a certificate and a trophy. Winners of the first place will also be supported for applications to international awards.” For transparency and to assure a fair assessment, an independent committee including experts in the field from UNDP and other renowned institutions will review and evaluate the information provided in the applications in each of the categories based on the following criteria: originality and added value, impact, sustainability and replicability, and collaborations and synergies. Dr. Issa said: “The results will be announced at a ceremony planned for early October 2016. We will announce all related details in due time. “We hope that the Energy Awareness Awards will raise the level of awareness about the importance of implementing sustainable practices within the operations of institutions and organizations in both the private and public sectors,” concluded Dr. Issa.

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A HAVEN OF PEACE

" Shakespeare said, "Shall I compare thee to a summer’s day?" In Lebanon, well... Where do I begin? One of the most basic signs of God’s gift of love to mankind is Nature, the haven of peace ...the kind that revitalizes the human soul. Consider the natural site of a vivid blue sea view, and what effect it could have on a human being struck by an overwhelming feeling of grief or shock, as he stands a few meters away and watches its divine healing powers, which are unfortunately being weakened by the dumping of toxic and radioactive wastes in the sea.... What about this– amidst the insufferable, suffocating solar heat, an angelic, light breezy whisper suddenly reminds us that there is still someone up, voting for us to maintain the haven of peace, merciful enough to allow a tender, tiny breeze absorb in seconds the attacking heat of Beirut. That was imposed by some men's vanity, as their ignorant cruelty cut down the green, beautiful trees surrounding the city's space. That breeze reminds us of God’s love and patience in the face of mankind's impetuous behavior and immaturity…. Have you noticed that we no longer have four equivalent seasons? Or how aggressively and unmercifully the Sun's rays are striking our skins with their angry, boiling stings during the early months of the year? And I ask, during the upcoming years, will a cup of pure, distilled water turn into an unaffordable luxury rather than an attainable, acquired right for all humans? Will those who are less privileged economically be able once a month to sink their teeth into a freshly-made green salad with a variety of vegetables? Will they be able to preserve their right to live a healthy life? Will fresh fruits and vegetables, not canned or otherwise preserved, remain accessible to all of mankind, and particularly to the Lebanese, who remain casual observers rather than considerate activists who are eager to develop the agricultural sector? For instance, I cannot imagine anyone gloating on social media with snapshots or selfies depicting a portrait of a person holding an expensive cup of a freshly squeezed mixture of tender fruits! Or a picture taken of someone eating a fresh, well-made salad with the deliciously included green and other tasty kinds of vegetables! This is expected to appear in the coming few years. Has anyone noticed that rainy days have decreased all too many during Lebanese winters? Has anyone noticed that the seasons have been reduced to basically two main seasons: winter and summer? Once we lose our Mother Nature, we suddenly become old men and women, rotten, left to wither and die from inside out.... Natural resources are slowly becoming a far-fetched asset to people, humanity.... Respect and reciprocity is the key to every relationship.

133 So why is mankind so inconsiderate and forgetful with regard to the ethical, environmental respect that should be shown for Mother Nature? When children wrongfully upset their mothers, they turn sour and teach harsh lessons, and some of these lessons leave eternal marks.... Yes, experience is a brutal teacher, and by God, it teaches you, and it definitely teaches humanity. Do we want Mother Nature to ever lose its temper towards us? People, you think that you have it all made– diplomas, millions, great families… what about your natural environment? Today I have the privilege of writing to you, because I still believe in the goodness of mankind, and in the goodness of the genuine Lebanese citizens, who are bound by the obligation to save Lebanon and the greenery with which God has blessed our country– Lebanon, once upon a time known as "The Green Country of the Middle East." I believe that together we can turn the myth back into a reality. Friends, we are at war with Time! The clock is ticking ...Just like a human body giving the needed signals for the doctor to check before its total collapse, the clock is ticking towards, God forbid, "Nature's downfall.” We fight back. We mirror our enemy… we fight time with time dedicated from our own time. All that we need to do as Lebanese is to please dedicate a bit of time together, to fight the Time that is leading us to our inevitable ruin! Do the right thing ... it is embedded in our DNA. Just as our fingerprints are engraved on Lebanese Nature, incriminating us for our inconsiderateness towards Nature. We must have an environment-oriented conscience before the environment reaches an irrevocable state in which all eﬀorts would be too late. Get out of that role and GO BEYOND ... Beyond the already cartooned roles and expected behaviors, and against all odds, rise up, object, and fight Fight with reason and construction against rage and destruction. Fight with love for the Green of Lebanon, like no other because you can, because you have to, because Time is against us all.... It is time to unite. It is time to act. It is time to join. It is time to undo the unthinkable before it becomes the irrevocable, with its unforgiving lessons and harmful eﬀects upon Mother Nature. Freely, you have been given all of the goodness and graces of Nature. Now it is your turn to freely give back, by preserving, protecting, and safeguarding your country. Nour El Hachem

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" Respect and reciprocity is the key to every relationship. So why is mankind so inconsiderate and forgetful with regard to the ethical, environmental respect that should be shown for Mother Nature?" Nour El Hachem

Al-Jan