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The garden lfgr subway sign shirt meaning: Dunusa, he explains, “translates as ‘Bend Over,’ because that’s what everyone does to rummage.” We watch him retrieving handfuls of men’s ties (in some of the The garden lfgr subway sign shirt But I will love this red-spectrum shades that ended up in the collection), salvaging cargos and jeans, and sports tops and track pants in the middle of the graying heaps and the frantic chaos of hagglers and traders. Then, back in his studio, he begins reworking the garments. “What I wanted was to invert Veblen’s theory, to turn it into a
trickle-up theory. Taking from things that had been in bins in the market, and pushing it back up into a luxury space.” The frenzied tussling in the market over the detritus from the global North speaks volumes about desperation, and deliberately makes confronting viewing for a fashion audience. Backstage, after the show, Magugu delved into the layers of intention behind exposing that. “Africans and South Africans have taken things that have sometimes hurt us in the past, and refurbished and recontextualized them to mean something else that can be reintegrated into our various cultures and heritage,” he explained. “But two things can be true at once,” he cautions. “This sort of second-hand thing has devastating effects on the continent environmentally. Some people go off and patchwork garments together. They’re creating these thrift shops. A lot of my friends have started entire businesses that way. I also look at it, how it’s impacted our sense of national identity. It’s not rare to see a woman in downtown Johannesburg wearing a traditional Shweshwe skirt, which is really important for certain traditional ceremonies, paired with a Vodafone shirt or a Manchester United T-shirt.”
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