3 safaris with Abercrombie & Kent

Visions of Kenya

Discover Kenya’s most iconic sights on this fabulous safari that whisks you from the flamingo-flecked soda lakes of the Great Rift Valley to the enormous Loisaba wildlife conservancy and the world-famous Masai Mara. The journey concludes with two full days of rest and relaxation by the glittering waters of the Indian Ocean. Throughout the game-viewing portion of this trip, stay in atmospheric tented camps that capture the adventure and romance of a bygone era. Be guided by the best in the business, from local Samburu trackers to Maasai warriors. Your final home away from home is an idyllic five-star resort at the heart of a marine sanctuary.

Details: 13 days, all-inclusive from $19,210 per person.

Best of Zambia

Marvel at the awe-inspiring Victoria Falls, one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, before embarking on an outstanding wilderness experience in the South Luangwa, home of the ‘walking safari’. The area is widely considered one of Africa’s finest and most unspoiled wildlife reserves and it makes for an exciting contrast with the Lower Zambezi where you’ll see game from safari vehicles, get up close on foot and float gently past herds that frequent the river and its banks. Unspoilt natural beauty and abundant game make these two areas unparalleled for a wildlife adventure.

Details: 11 days, all-inclusive from $17,450 pp.

Tanzania Under Canvas

Home to Africa’s largest game reserve, highest mountain, deepest lake and most extraordinary wildlife spectacle, Tanzania is a captivating African microcosm and ripe for adventure. It is a country of astounding contrasts offering exceptional, unforgettable experiences around every sun-drenched corner, teeming with extraordinary wildlife, high peaks, ancient craters, great lakes and a rich tribal culture. Gaze over the endless plains of the Serengeti ecosystem, where the annual wildebeest migration plays out, and clamber through the primate-rich forest of the Mahale Mountains. Descend into the vast Ngorongoro Crater, its own captivating wildlife arena, and soak up the Arab influences on exotic Zanzibar. Discover the lesser-known swathes of the Selous Game Reserve and scale the icy summit of Kilimanjaro. class. I even found myself thinking fondly of my oven, which needed cleaning.

Details: 9 days, all-inclusive from $12,740 pp.

Tread lightly Clockwise, from right: Hiking into Olmoti Crater; wildlife in the Ngorongoro Crater; jeep safari in Tarangire National Park, Tanzania.

But as we moved silently through the grass, the warm wind made the dangling branches of the ancient, sun-sequinned baobab trees dance. Giraffes periscoped their long necks up above the trees at our approach and zebras and gazelles gambolled gaily. The majesty of the sweeping savannah had just begun to work its relaxing magic when we rounded a thicket and walked smack-bang into a big bull elephant. The tusked mammoth stared at us with haughty disdain. We were close enough to see the heat rippling off its thick hide and feel the breeze from his beating ears.

“If he charges,” the ranger whispered, “just clap your hands and shout to look bigger.” I shot him a narrow-eyed, sarcastic, sideways look. This advice sounded about as effective as standing up to Vladimir Putin with a pavlova. When the elephant then trumpeted in my direction, I didn’t want to clap my hands. I wanted to make like an ostrich and bury my quivering head in the sand. Following the ranger’s example, I slowly retreated – right back into my comfort zone. Who cared about increasing cognitive ability? For my next safari, I opted to hang up my hiking books and ride in a nice safe Jeep.

More than a third of Tanzania is conserved as national parks and game reserves, meaning much of the country is one big smorgasbord of lions, leopards, cheetahs, hyenas, jackals and other wild and wondrous creatures hunting, munching and lunching on each other. It gives a new definition to “fast food”.

After an enthralling morning driving past the entire cast of The Lion King, I was just getting a bit peckish when I glanced up at a tree and realised that I was lunch. There are many reasons for sudden religious conversion – the chief being staring into the hazel eyes of a hungry lioness, lounging on a branch a few feet from your head. Turns out a Jeep safari isn’t a safer option. It just makes you into meals on wheels. The big cat stretched, dropped gracefully to the ground and padded straight past me; clearly a case of professional courtesy. I mean, as a cougar I’m definitely part of the cat family, right?

Even more terrifying than the salivating incisors of various prairie predators were the sleeping arrangements. I am not a camping kinda gal. To me, “camping” is what Alan Carr does on his chat show. In Tanzania, the camps I stayed in were unfenced. With nothing but a flimsy bit of netting between me and the king of the jungle, how could I possibly not feel tense about tents? When a spear-wielding Masai warrior arrived, you know, just to escort me to dinner, to ensure that I didn’t become an animal entrée en route, I glanced at his weapon with scepticism. But I needn’t have worried – the Masai have an encyclopaedic knowledge of the bush.

The safari tents of the camps proved chic and cosily comfy. Lying snug in a soft bed, well guarded by warriors, listening to the deep throaty roar of prowling lions felt exhilarating. I didn’t miss those luxurious hotels either. After all, if I wanted five stars, all I had to do was look up.

So, after six days of safari adventure, what did I discover? I learnt that a cackle of hyenas running towards you is no laughing matter. I learnt that when the guide points out there’s a python right next to you it’s not a sudden sighting of Eric Idle. I learnt that cape buffalos have some serious anger management issues and that elephants eat for 22 hours a day. I learnt that, in the awe-inspiring natural wonder that is the UNESCO-listed Ngorongoro Crater, endangered black rhinos are not the reclusive, elusive Greta Garbos of the animal world; I encountered five in one day. I learnt that I’m braver and more intrepid than I thought. But mostly I learnt how lucky I am to be having a sensational second act.

This fact was driven home to me at Ngorongoro’s Doffa Bike Shop where some of the local women are also finding a new lease on life, thanks to tour operator Abercrombie & Kent’s philanthropy project. The bike shop trains single mums living with HIV to be mechanics. The thousands of donated bicycles they fix go on to mobilise whole communities, helping nurses to see more patients, kids get to school and women go to market. Of the 46 projects in 24 countries that Abercrombie & Kent runs to support local communities, this is their most successful to date, with 15,214 bikes now empowering women across Africa. I joined five of the female mechanics for a ride around the town. For me, this was a cooler bikie gang than the Hells Angels.

Taking on new challenges in Tanzania definitely got my synapses zinging and put off the need for a seniors sat-nav (the kind of device that gets you to your destination . . . then reminds you why the hell you wanted to go there in the first place). Not only did I get up close to the big five, I also got to drink in spectacular vistas, befriend the most charismatic guides, learn to paddle a canoe and digitally detox every night by watching bush TV (the open fire). Palate-pleasing cuisine and elegant safari tents meant that my adventures took me out of my comfort zone, but comfortably.

Best of all, my guides kept stressing the importance of staying hydrated in the heat, but neglected to specify which liquids. I didn’t want to disobey orders, so chose a deliciously buttery South African chardonnay. Bottoms ups, girls! CT

Tanzania

“THERE ARE MANY REASONS FOR SUDDEN RELIGIOUS CONVERSION –THE CHIEF BEING STARING INTO THE HAZEL EYES OF A HUNGRY LIONESS, LOUNGING ON A BRANCH A FEW FEET FROM YOUR HEAD. ”