Expedition cruising in style

Crystal Cruises’s first expedition ship, Endeavor, sailed up the Thames to London to provide a taste of life on board, writes Emma Featherstone.

It was an unusual vessel to be anchored on the Thames in the middle of London. A 200-passenger adventure ship, a gleaming hunk of white that vied for attention with the nearby restored clipper ship Cutty Sark. It was yacht-like but substantial, at 164 metres long and 23.4 metres wide.

Equipped with 18 Zodiacs, 14 sea kayaks and its own submarine, Endeavor is built to sail between icebergs and over choppy waters.

Those who book in for a voyage to the Antarctic will enjoy all-inclusive excursions led by a dedicated team of 20 experts, including a marine biologist, ornithologist and geologist. Hikes, wildlife spotting and yoga on remote beaches are some of the activities on offer.

Left: Crystal Endeavor sails into Vopnafjörður Bay in northeast Iceland. Below: Palm Court, the ship’s entertainment hub.

I boarded Endeavor on the Thames to get a taste of what it’s like to stay on Crystal Cruises’s first expedition ship, which made its maiden voyage, a circumnavigation of Iceland, in July. It was stopping in London for the night before departing for an 11-night cruise to Lisbon. Cruise itineraries often claim to include a London port, when the ship in fact stops in Tilbury or even Southampton. The maritime grandeur of Greenwich, with the spike of the Shard, the slab of the Walkie Talkie and other City skyscrapers framing the horizon, firmly places you in the capital.

The layer of grey that had coated the sky that morning finally turned to light blue, the sun casting shards of light onto the water. Greenwich is home to the Prime Meridian line, representing the exact division of the eastern and western hemispheres. It’s a fitting place in which to immerse oneself in the concept of expedition cruising.

/ THE PENTHOUSE SUITE Stepping on board, it was quickly clear that the adventures available directly from the ship (passengers are kitted up in ‘mud rooms’ before getting aboard Zodiacs and kayaks), did not mean skimping on luxury.

A palette of jewel tones – amber, emerald and jade – is carried throughout the public areas and cabins. And space is plentiful. Endeavor was carrying around 65 guests when I joined. However, even when at full capacity, it has the largest space per guest ratio of any such ship. (Mask wearing is a

My butler had more of the command you might expect from Downton Abbey’s illustrious staff than the more laidback stewards I’d met on other small ships”

matter of personal choice, and a number of social distancing measures are still in effect.)

The cabins are also generous on space. Deluxe Suites are the entry-level option, yet come with a living area, complete with a two-seater sofa, TV and desk. There’s also a balcony, a king-sized bed, a mini walk-in wardrobe, a neatly compact bar, a sizeable bathroom (with sit-down shower) and a separate toilet.

Those with eyes on something roomier can pick from a Penthouse Suite, an Expedition Penthouse (with a separate living area) or, for full luxury, an Owner’s Suite or Expedition Suite. The latter pair come with Jacuzzi baths, separate dining areas and details such as glass-enclosed taps.

/ DINING OPTIONS Round-the-clock butler service comes as standard. A dedicated cabin steward is typical among some cruise lines, particularly the upper end of the market that operates small vessels.

The Endeavor’s invitingly cosy solarium.

My butler’s demeanour had a touch more of the command you might expect from Downton Abbey’s most illustrious staff than the more laidback stewards I’d met on other small ships and river ships. The luxury continues in the onboard restaurants, which include Waterside, the main dining area, and Marketplace, which is around the solarium at the aft.

There are also three specialty venues, Umi Uma & Sushi Bar; Prego, a 36-seat area serving Italian food; and The Vintage Room, a private dining spot where wine-pairing dinners are held. Breakfast and lunch are also available in Bistro Endeavor.

In Marketplace, you can expect dishes such as gin-cured salmon gravlax, pan-fried Atlantic halibut and orange crème brûlée. Come breakfast, the menu switches to treats such as Belgian waffle and cinnamon-raisin brioche French toast. “Have both!” the waiter insisted as my dining companion deliberated between a main of beef tenderloin and braised beef cheek or broiled king crab legs.

While we polished off pitchers of chocolate martinis, I enjoyed a sample of the repertoire of Salvatore, an Italian singer and musician whose range covered Celine Dion, Lionel Richie, Tom Jones, Bruce Springsteen and Diana Ross.

His instrumental skill set included the harmonica, piano, saxophone and drums (again, they likely stretched beyond what he revealed during his stint on stage).

The pinnacle was his take on We Are the World, the American charity song. His voice fluctuated between the tone of the 21 soloists featured on the record. It would be easy to forget,

FACT FILE

Above: The ship is “yacht-like but substantial”, allowing it to enter smaller harbours and navigate ice flows. Clockwise from far left: an entry-level Deluxe Suite; the living room in a Penthouse Suite; an open deck at night; balcony views in a luxe Penthouse Suite.

while drinking in the atmosphere of the evening, that you were sailing to the planet’s farthest ends. Of course, once you stepped out onto deck and spotted a hunk of ice in the distance, you’d feel a fresh jolt of wonder.

The ship’s high-tech equipment comes into play when navigating around the Drake Passage on a wildlife expedition or to the glaciers and fjords of Greenland. This includes the submersible, or submarine, a drone and remote-operated cameras that feed images back to the ship to be watched on TV from the comfort of the suites.

And then there’s the Zodiacs, sea kayaks and snorkelling gear. At the opposite end of the high-tech spectrum is the humble library, but a well-stocked, adventurers’ reading paradise at that.

Expedition voyages tend to come at a hefty price. Cruises on Crystal Endeavor are no different. Book in for the 14-night round trip from Ushuaia next February and you’re looking at a cost of at least AUD$34,515.

With the all-inclusive food (and most drinks), excursions and butler service, not to mention the marine biologists and submarines at close hand throughout your voyage, expedition cruising is an experience that can’t be replicated as an independent traveller.

That’s one reason why expedition cruises tend to sell out months in advance. Over the next year or so, Endeavor will also venture on voyages from Tokyo to Taipei, Bali to Cairns, and Tema (Ghana) to Dakar (Senegal). CRUISE LINE: Crystal Cruises SHIP: Crystal Endeavor LAUNCHED: 2021 STAR RATING: 5 TONNAGE: 20,4490 PASSENGER DECKS: 8 PASSENGER CAPACITY: 200 CREW: 209 FACILITIES: Four dining options; 24-hour room service; various bars, coffee bars and lounges; one pool; whirlpool; casino; spa and salon; fitness centre; sauna; water sports platform; Zodiacs and submersibles.

THE VERDICT

HIGHS: The ship offers the highest space per passenger ratio among similarly sized vessels, and oceans of luxurious fittings. There’s also a great variety of food. LOWS: My butler’s commanding demeanour was a bit more imperious than the more laidback stewards you’d usually encounter elsewhere. BEST FOR: Well-heeled adventurer couples and those ticking off the expedition cruise on their bucket list.

www.crystalcruises.com.au