Cruise & Travel 88

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• COPENHAGEN STOCKHOLM RIGA VISBY KLAIPĖDA GDANSK RØNNE (BORNHOLM) BERLIN (ROSTOCK) TALLINN HELSINKI TURKU

ISTANBUL CHANIA (CRETE)

BARCELONA SEVILLE (CÁDIZ) LISBON CASABLANCA GIBRALTAR CARTAGENA

CINQUE TERRE (PORTOVENERE) MONTE CARLO PROVENCE (MARSEILLE) SORRENTO/ CAPRI

ROME (CIVITAVECCHIA)

OLBIA/PORTO CERVO (SARDINIA)

(ORKNEY ISLANDS) STORNOWAY (HEBRIDES) EDINBURGH (SOUTH QUEENSFERRY) GLASGOW (GREENOCK)

DUBLIN (DÚN LAOGHAIRE)

BELFAST HOLYHEAD CORK (COBH)

LIVERPOOL PORTLAND

LONDON (SOUTHAMPTON)

Travel Cruise

December 2022

Editor-in-chief and publisher Peter Lynch peter.lynch@bigsplashmedia.com.au

Editor Bernadette Chua bernadette@bigsplashmedia.com.au Executive editor Teresa Ooi teresa@bigsplashmedia.com.au Sub editor Claire Waddell Art director Catherine Martin Commercial director Phil Mahony phil@bigsplashmedia.com.au

Advertising sales manager Vida Folden vida@bigsplashmedia.com.au

Contributors and writers Emma Beaumont, Sue Bryant, Tallis Boerne Marcus, Nina Caplan, Bernadette Chua, Louise Goldsbury, Roz Lewis, Teresa Ooi, Sheriden Rhodes, Noga Tarnopolsky, Jonathan Thompson

Subscriptions Phone 02 8227 6486 – Australia Phone +612 8227 6400 – International cruisepassenger.com.au/magazine

Printed by IVE

Cover: Deck 8 pool on Le Paul Gauguin, sailing Polynesian waters. cruisepassenger.com.au

10

Upfront

Cruise&Travel magazine is published by Big Splash Media Pty Ltd Suite 206, Level 2 46a Macleay Street Potts Point, Sydney 2011 bigsplashmedia.com.au Phone: +61 2 9356 8888

Managing director Peter Lynch

All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Copyright Big Splash Media Pty Ltd. Opinions expressed are those of the individual contributors and are not necessarily those of the publisher. All reasonable efforts have been made to contact copyright holders. Information provided believed to be correct at time of publication, however details can change at any time and all information, including prices, in this magazine should be considered general in nature only. No travel decisions should be made solely on the information provided. Always consult your travel agent.

Our news section, which includes a first look at Sun Princess, ships new to Australia, the luxury yacht trend and Disney Cruise Line’s arrival Down Under.

OCEANS

32

High price of popularity Is the Kimberley too popular for its own good? Reviews

50

First in class

Hop aboard as Norwegian Cruise Line’s first Prima class vessel sets sail.

56

Island hopping in the Adriatic

Regent Seven Seas Cruises’ magical journey in Alaska.

Winds

Iconic sailing yacht Le Ponant heads to Australia’s north-west.

An APT voyage on Princess Eleganza reveals the joys of small ship sailing in Croatia.

“Wow” is included

of change

RIVERS ESCAPES

66

The big switch

Longtime fans of ocean cruises are starting to see the appeal of a river cruise.

Review 70

Pyramid schemes

A cruise on the newest and most luxurious ship on the Nile, Viking Osiris

My life in travel

International best-selling author Jeffrey Archer reveals how a trip to Italy at age 19 inspired his love of art.

104

Luxe listings

Sydney celebrates the opening of a treasure trove of new high-end hotels. 108

Song of the desert

Alice Springs comes alive with the sounds of the annual Desert Song Festival. 112

Work up an appetite Counteract the effects of a gourmet feast in Melbourne with a spectacular hike in the Grampians.

131

The middle of nowhere

A remote desert valley in Israel is the unlikely location for a new Six Senses resort. 136

Silence is golden What will $4,700 buy you? A night in the Big Apple’s most expensive hotel, Aman New York. 142

Last word What you can – and can’t – get away with stealing from hotels.

Size matters

Welcome to this very special edition of Cruise & Travel, which includes our first Readers’ Choice Awards since the pandemic paused sailing. It’s been two years since we asked you to nominate the best among the many cruise lines which sail Australian waters and beyond. It appears there has been something of a revolution in your thinking.

We had well over 4,000 responses to our survey. More than half of the 19 awards this year went to lines with smaller ships – a reflection of an overwhelming response to COVID we noticed in our sentiment surveys.

It’s most obviously reflected in your choice of the best ocean cruise line this year. Viking took out the top slot for the first time. Other small-ship lines featured heavily throughout your answers to our questionnaire, either taking out the top spot or as a runner-up. Ponant, Regent Seven Seas Cruises, Oceania Cruises and Scenic featured strongly.

On the rivers, Avalon and Scenic dominated your awards. Avalon’s young, small-ship fleet with panoramic windows and beds facing the view delighted our readers. And Scenic’s whitegloved service resonated with those seeking an ultra-luxe experience. But there is no doubt there has been a significant shift among Australian cruisers. Small is beautiful.

We introduced two new categories this year. First, the most innovative ship design, as a tribute to the extraordinary and exciting improvements we’ve seen in what the industry calls its “hardware”. We think your verdict to award the prize to Celebrity Beyond makes sense – the Edge-class vessel was launched in April this year, and has stunned passengers.

Another new category for this year reflects a further shift away from big ships: the rise of the yacht. Once the domain of billionaires, suddenly some stunning vessels are available to all of us, including new cruise industry entrants such as luxury hotel groups The Ritz-Carlton and Four Seasons.

Scenic Eclipse took out this prize – and that’s a tribute to the design brilliance of its creator, owner of Scenic Glen Moroney. This ship delivered so many firsts, including submarines and helicopters. It was built against the odds at a shipyard which eventually went into liquidation. None of these roadblocks defeated Moroney, who should take out a prize for tenacity.

Sustainability has become an increasingly important category, and Hurtigruten has once again been chosen as favourite. Make no mistake, this is a new genre of cruising.

Thanks for taking part this year – cruise lines have worked hard to bring back itineraries and your support is important. We know they watch your votes as the most important verdict on what they are trying to achieve.

We know you are more than qualified to cast your votes –more than 55 per cent of you have sailed more than seven times. And we know you will continue to test the waters for us. A little more than 79 per cent of you intend to book a cruise either in what remains of 2022 or in 2023.

Peter Lynch, Editor-in-chief and publisher

Winning moments

Regent Seven Seas Cruises’ classic steakhouse, Prime 7.

Five exciting trends from this year’s Readers’ Choice Awards

Small ships rise 1

In all of our major categories, from dining (Oceania Cruises) to service (Regent Seven Seas Cruises) and adventure (Ponant) small ships took out the top spots.

New ships reign

2The stunning designs of today’s cruise liners auger well for the future of cruising, from larger vessels like this year’s winner, Celebrity Beyond (Celebrity Edge will be in our waters next year), to revolutionary discovery yachts like Scenic Eclipse II. Next year will see even more with Regent Seven Seas Grandeur, Oceania Vista, Norwegian Viva and yet more Viking ocean ships.

Little luxuries score big

3Those special inclusions we call “luxury” – Viking prefers to refer to its ships as “deluxe” – dominated this year’s awards, from Regent Seven Seas to Ponant and lots in between.

Celebrity and Norwegian vessels are all nudging luxury and pushing upper premium. Great news for cruise passengers.

River resurgence

4We are seeing a swing from new-to-cruise to the river argument: it’s a value-laden way to explore inland waterways, and takes you to exciting destinations in safety. Egypt is exploding in popularity and Asia is reopening at a fast pace.

Sustainability

5Cruise lines and their passengers have all got the message about maintaining our planet. Many go to the extremes of the Earth in the polar regions to see first-hand how we are managing this crucial issue. Every major ship operator now has sustainability at the forefront of their consideration when ordering new ships or considering a fresh itinerary.

CT

The pinnacle Kimberley experience

Photo

Upfront

Prepare for an armada

this summer Australia will be home to 46 international cruise ships, including some of the best, most luxurious and biggest in the world. More luxury ships from lines Regent Seven Seas, Ponant, Viking, Oceania, Cunard and Seabourn are set to visit from October to March next year.

Two standout stars will be Regent Seven Seas Explorer – “the most luxurious ship ever built” – and Le Ponant, the beautiful French yacht that will transform sailing in the Kimberley.

“Luxury travel has been the fastest to recover ... We’re seeing a much broader range of destinations – bucket-list destinations. We’re also seeing a lot of ‘close to home’, including Asia, where people don’t have to travel so far,” says Steve Odell, SVP & Managing Director Asia Pacific, Regent Seven Seas Cruises.

Odell revealed that the average cruise spend has risen to above $30,000 for two people. “We are seeing more new customers than ever before – more than 50 per cent of people we have booked are new to our brand,” he says. Regent Seven Seas is already two-thirds full for 2023, and the line is now turning its sales teams on 2024-25.

Homeported lines are also bringing numbers back to pre-pandemic days. Between P&O Cruises Australia, Royal Caribbean, Princess Cruises, Carnival Cruise Line and Celebrity Cruises, 11 of the big ships will take to Australian shores. Princess will sail three ships, including popular Majestic Princess; all three P&O Australia ships (Pacific Encounter, Pacific Adventure and Pacific Explorer) will be in operation; and the return of Carnival Splendor and the new Carnival Luminosa means the so-called “fun ships” are back.

Particularly anticipated is the return of Royal Caribbean to Australian cruising, with the arrival of Ovation of the Seas and Quantum of the Seas bringing two huge ships to our shores. Quantum of the Seas, one of the largest and newest in the Royal Caribbean fleet, will be based in Brisbane, where the new port facility is aiming to make a step change in cruising Queensland and the Pacific.

“Pent-up demand after Royal Caribbean’s two-year hiatus in Australia has meant bookings on both Quantum Class ships coming to Australia have been extremely strong,” says Dave Humphreys, director of sales at Royal Caribbean International Australia and New Zealand.

“Bookings across Royal Caribbean’s Australia 2022-2023 summer season are performing well, with huge demand from Australians who are eager to

The pandemic pause is well and truly over as more ships set sail for Australia and New Zealand this wave season, writes Peter Lynch.

get back to sea. Web traffic is exceeding pre-pandemic levels and enquiries on sailings have been significantly increasing.”

Humphreys says if you have your heart set on a particular cabin or suite category you should move fast.

“Our interconnecting balcony staterooms, which are ideal for multi-gen families, always sell out fast,” he says. “We also see a great deal of demand for our suites as Australian guests look to indulge on their holiday with features such as our Royal Genie, who as a personal butler can craft exclusive one-of-a-kind experiences all designed around the Star suite guest.”

As for itineraries that are moving quickly, Humphreys highlights Ovation of the Seas’ and Quantum of the Seas’ 12-night sailings that stretch across Australia, New Zealand and the islands of the South Pacific.

Norwegian Cruise Line is also expecting a buoyant season with Norwegian Spirit, which has had a $150 million makeover, taking centre stage. She will be sailing around our coasts and to New Zealand from December, along with Viking Ocean Cruises’ ships Viking Orion and Viking Mars.

The stage is set From left: Cruising makes a strong return to Australia; catch Mamma Mia! on Royal Caribbean; Ponant’s Le Soleal will sail Australia in 2023.

Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA) Managing Director Australasia Joel Katz says demand is strong across the industry.

“The sight of magnificent international cruise ships back in Australian and New Zealand waters has created a huge sense of anticipation and cruise lines are reporting good demand for cruising over the coming summer and into the future,” he says.

According to CLIA’s latest sentiment surveys, Australians are revelling in the return of cruising as the numbers show spirits soaring since last year.

In November 2021, of Australians who had never cruised before, only 43 per cent said they would be open to cruising, but that number has now rebounded to 56 per cent. Similarly, last November 73 per cent of past cruisers said they would cruise again in the next few years; now 81 per cent of past cruisers are ready to commit to a sailing.

Furthermore, among both cruisers and non-cruisers, 65 per cent say they are likely or very likely to book a cruise in the next two years, well ahead of the 53 per cent from last November and even slightly up from the 64 per cent pre-pandemic.

Katz says these numbers are a sign of the times as Australians get ready to cruise again.

“Australians and New Zealanders have always been among the world’s most passionate cruisers, so it’s great to see the enthusiasm among past guests is back at pre-pandemic levels,” he says.

“Sentiment has climbed even higher in other countries where cruise operations have been running for some time, so we can be confident of a similar rise in our region as we move forward.”

The momentum will only continue in the following season as heavyweights Virgin Voyages and Disney Cruise Line pay their first visits to Australia, Celebrity Cruises brings its first Edge Class ship to our shores and numbers tick back towards the massive 60 ships that visited Australia during its last pre-COVID wave season. CT

“If you have your heart set on a particular cabin or suite category you should move fast.”

Wish upon a star

Disney Cruise Line sparked waves of excitement among Australian families when it announced it would be dropping anchor on Australian shores in 2023. The first sailing will leave Sydney in October, marking the moment that the magic of Disney is o cially part of the Australian cruising landscape. Some 32 itineraries were o ered departing Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane or Auckland, ranging from two to six days. Most of the shorter cruises are open water sailings up and down Australia’s east coast. Longer cruises will head out

OFF THE RAILS

to destinations such as Hobart, Auckland and New Caledonia. Prices

start from about $1,438 for two guests on a two-night cruise, well above those of other big ship competitors. On these limited-time sailings, the Disney Wonder cruise ship is the destination and guests can immerse themselves in their favourite stories from Disney, Pixar, Marvel and Star Wars. Demand was expected to be high and the first Australian Disney cruises have already sold out, but the positive response ensures a second Disney coming.

One of the most amazing rail journeys you can imagine is aboard luxury train company Belmond’s Andean Explorer, which tracks through the Peruvian Andes at more than 4,000 metres above sea level. Travelling from the former Incan capital of Cusco to the colonial charm of Arequipa, the overnight Andean Explorer takes in sights such as Puno and the shores of Lake Titicaca. You can spend a night at Las Casitas, a Belmond hotel in Colca Canyon, where period bungalows are kitted out with terraces and heated plunge pools. The train is a delight in itself with carriages adorned with Art Nouveau ceilings and mahogany panelling. Incan feasts are served in the two dining cars and there is also a spa car for massages and facials.

Viking has ordered four new hydrogenfuelled ships to cruise the world’s oceans. Italian shipbuilder Fincantieri confirmed the four ‘green’ ships are worth €1.7 billion (AU$2.6 billion) with the first ship to roll out in 2026. The new generation of ships is designed for hydrogen fuel cells and will set a new standard for the industry, with the technology considered one of the most promising when it comes to reducing greenhouse gas emissions in the maritime industry. Viking’s newest ocean-going cruise ship is Viking Mars, which launched in mid-2022 and will sail Australian waters next year.

VIKING GOES GREEN

In the bag Judith Leiber Couture “Bubbles” evening clutch, AU$8,049.

Loud and proud

You can take your favourite podcasts – On Board with Cruise Passenger is a must –anywhere and listen on a portable bluetooth speaker. The JBL Clip 4 is brilliant – and costs about $90. It comes in colourful fabrics with a carabiner that’s integrated into the speaker for extra protection. It has a 10-hour battery life and is waterproof and dust-proof.

JAPAN REOPENS TO CRUISE

As tourism reopens in Japan, cruise is coming with it. Those in the know say cruises are already flying off the shelves.

“We have had a surge of Japan bookings since they announced they were fully open,” says Michelle Levins, director of My Cruise Concierge. Not only is demand for Japan travel and cruise returning to prepandemic levels, but Levins sees it soon exceeding those levels. “Japan had been very popular pre-pandemic for us, so we are returning to those levels and I suspect we will go even higher. Japan is a country rich in history and culture, [and] clients also feel safe in Japan.”

Sharon Summerhayes, owner of cruise agent Deluxe Travel & Cruise, says cherry-blossom cruises are her best-sellers. “I’m getting bookings for the 2023/24 season, specifically March for cherry-blossom cruises,” she says. “This is a bucket list for cruisers, so I expect the 2024 season to be in great demand as not all lines will be there for the next season – some redeployed due to uncertainty.”

High spirits

Norwegian Spirit, which from December 2022 will call Australia home, is due to arrive with a major makeover. The expansiveness of the refurbishment is unprecedented for Norwegian Cruise Line, with a US$100 million facelift leaving Norwegian Spirit more glitzy than ever. The ship’s Mandara Spa has now doubled in size, with a steam room, sauna, shower experience and heated-tile loungers all there to keep you more relaxed. Just as sleek is the new adults-only pool, Spice H20, which by night turns into a speakeasy

cocktail lounge and open-air nightclub. There’s plenty more to do at night aboard Norwegian Spirit: choose between nine bars and lounges, 14 dining options and Broadway-style entertainment, with stand-outs such as country-tribute show Blazing Boots and Palace of Lights, which evokes 1950s Cuba. Norwegian Spirit will sail six 12-day itineraries in Australia and New Zealand, as well as a range of South Pacific voyages.

LONDON FOG MARTINI, ANYONE?

Azamara has announced that its luxurious Atlas Bar offering will now be available on all its ships. The bar first appeared on Azamara Onward in April 2022, delighting guests by serving cocktails and small plates inspired by the ports visited on the cruise. Cocktails such as a London Fog Martini, Tuscan Delight or Heart of Azamara may be offered, depending on the itinerary, and will be served in sister ships’ lounges. Scott Daniels, Azamara’s head of hotel operations, said: “The designer created a beautiful space that really complements the cocktail and food menus that our food and beverage team worked so hard to perfect ... We wanted to be able to offer the experience on our other ships, even if we didn’t have the same physical space.”

Right foot forward Tom Ford “James” sneaker, AU$1,105.

Room at the top

Four Seasons has announced that in 2025 it will launch Four Seasons Yachts, an all-suite luxurious experience at sea. The move follows the announcements of rival luxury hoteliers Aman’s and The Ritz-Carlton’s entries into the luxury yacht space. The 14 decks of the Four Seasons yacht will pack in 95 suites, but the standout feature will be the fourlevel, 890 sq m Funnel Suite. This ultra-roomy option will feature expansive living spaces, a pool and spa area. Wraparound glass windows peer over the bow, making the suite a spectacular sight from both inside and out. The rest of the suites will average 54 sq m and open onto private terraces. Reservations will be available from the second half of 2023, with itineraries set to begin in the Mediterranean.

Silver Endeavour launches

Silver Endeavour will be delighting passengers as of November 21, when the vessel sails on its inaugural voyage with Silversea Cruises. The ship was bought from Crystal Cruises earlier this year and will replace Silver Explorer for the 2022/23 Antarctica season, given that Endeavour was designed for

polar destinations. The ship boasts luxurious amenities, an unprecedented Zodiac-to-guest ratio, kayaks and innovative polar navigation technology. Polar explorer and climate scientist Felicity Aston was named the ship’s godmother. “Her explorations are more than a test of physical stamina; they are a test of oneself,” says Roberto Martinoli, CEO of Silversea Cruises. “They will be a source of great inspiration for travellers as they set forth on their journey to polar regions and beyond.”

LUXURY CRUISES

The secret sanctuary

Scenic Eclipse, The World’s First Discovery Yacht, is a Polar class 6 vessel that takes guests to some of the most remote parts of our planet, across all seven continents. Her submarine^ and helicopter^ have broken new ground in adventure. Her stabilisers and state-of-the-art technology mean her guests can experience the most exquisite natural beauty and the vast wilderness of the Arctic and Antarctic. But all that expedition action hides a rather pleasant secret.

Deep within the heart of the ship’s sleek lines, there is a hidden sanctuary that will delight and pamper the greatest of indulgence seekers. The best of wellness is also a Scenic Eclipse specialty.

The ship’s Senses Spa is one of the biggest at sea. The 550m2 Scandinavian-inspired wellness facility is a cocoon of wellness that caters to every type of wellness need, from fitness to spa.

Scenic Eclipse and the soon-to-launch Scenic Eclipse II are setting new benchmarks globally for their offerings in ultra-luxury wellness. The yachts, which each accommodate up to 228 guests (200 in Polar regions), offer a wide and sophisticated range of experiences that have been specially curated for passengers to indulge, relax and unwind while enjoying the voyage of a lifetime.

At the Senses Spa, you can choose from massages and body treatments. For added indulgence, expert beauty therapists are on hand to give you the best advice on facial treatments. Scenic has a long-term partnership with British beauty brand ESPA, known for its holistic approach to skincare and beauty products. There’s also an onboard hair salon and a special area for manicures and pedicures.

From therapy lounges to yoga and Pilates, these wellness activities – except for spa treatments – are all part and parcel of your all-inclusive cruise price. Wellness experiences include reflexology, Thai massage, Japanese Shiatsu, Ayurvedic massage and Tibetan bowl sound healing sessions. For the uninitiated, Buddhist monks have long used Tibetan singing bowls for meditation. The bowl is a type of bell that vibrates and produces a rich, deep tone that promotes relaxation and powerful healing properties.

At the vitality lounge, guests can relish the heat from the thermal loungers which gently purifies the body, while the tranquil sound of melodious music plays from your Bose headset to help soothe the mind.

Then there are separate saunas for women and men and therapeutic pressure showers, and you can step out onto the spa pool deck, with its temperature-controlled plunge pools and sunbeds.

Yoga and Pilates devotees can turn up for their daily stretch at the PURE studio, the only dedicated Pilates studio at sea, which offers group classes or the option of one-on-one sessions with instructors for a personalised experience. The ship’s new holistic therapy sessions also include aerial yoga, TRX (a form of suspension training) and mindfulness meditation. Aerobic dance classes, Zumba and bootcamp sessions are also available.

SCENIC

Food is an important part of wellness. And guests are spoiled for choice aboard Scenic Eclipse I and II. If you are feeling peckish after some weightlifting at the gym or after a relaxing facial and body massage, you can dine at an all-day outdoor or indoor grazing venue, such as Azure Bar & Café, or at the exclusive “by invitation-only” private degustation dining at Chef’s Table @ Elements.

Daily menus are curated from a repertoire of over 3,000 recipes across its restaurants allowing for unrivalled variety and flavours. Fresh produce is drawn from local suppliers as well as from the ship’s onboard herb garden.

There’s Koko’s, an Asian-fusion restaurant and sake bar, Sushi @ Koko’s and private dining with an open Teppanyaki grill for eight people during evening meals at Night Market @ Koko’s. The Yacht Club grill and bar on Deck 7 serves up fine steaks, and for guests who prefer to stick to salads, organic or vegetarian choices, there are always healthy menu options. Foodie folks can learn more at a culinary masterclass at Scenic Épicure, hosted by expert chefs who will guide you on how to prepare the finest local dishes which you can easily replicate at home.

One of the joys of cruising aboard an ultra-luxury expedition ship like Scenic Eclipse is that there is always time to relax, indulge and unwind in the luxurious surroundings. You can head for the large Observation Terrace and comfortably read a book or simply gaze at the scenery sitting on a deck chair or sun lounge.

Scenic Eclipse Discovery Yachts feature nine spacious bars and lounges, and because it is an all-inclusive ultra-luxury cruise, you can always sip a glass of France’s finest at the intimate Champagne Bar, indulge in an aged single malt at the Scenic Lounge Bar, home to over 100 whiskey varieties, or simply get your butler to bring you a cup of specialty Illy coffee or tea. Life – and wellness – on board The World’s First Discovery Yachts is really in a class of its own. CT Scenic Eclipse II will make its debut sailing in April 2023.

Indulge your Senses

Clockwise, from main: The PURE: Yoga and Pilates Studio; the Relaxation Room; a butler-served breakfast; the Chef’s Table private dinner; the Vitality pool.

Scenic is committed to a greener planet

Scenic respects the natural ecosystems and local communities that call each region home, and is committed to providing a cleaner, greener, safer cruising experience.

“We believe that this care for the environment, this desire to preserve the Earth, is a deeper underlying value of what we do and what we, as a company, stand for. It is at the core of who we are,” states the line.

Scenic Eclipse was designed and built to meet or exceed all current and expected environmental standards. The yacht is equipped with the latest technology and is managed in accordance with best practice, ensuring all processes have minimal environmental impact. Scenic Eclipse is certified Polar Class 6-designed and built to the latest uncompromising standards for ships operating in polar waters.

Key highlights:

- Scenic is committed to reducing kitchen waste, with main courses served from the galley and a food shredder compacting any leftover food waste.

- The advanced Azipod propulsion system minimises noise and vibration to reduce disturbance to marine life, as well as improving the ship’s manoeuvrability and reducing fuel consumption. GPS Dynamic Positioning allows the ship to maintain its position without the use of an anchor, thus protecting the sea floor.

- Wastewater is treated using a membrane biological reactor before being discharged.

- An advanced HVAC system ensures there is no re-circulation of inside air on board the ship; air from outside the ship is channelled directly to your suite.

- The lightest grade of marine fuel is used, reducing sulphur emissions by up to 95 per cent. Where possible, the ship is equipped to plug into onshore power networks.

SCENIC LUXURY CRUISES

Sister act

The World’s First Discovery Yacht, Scenic Eclipse, is getting a sister – and she’s coming to Australia. When Scenic Eclipse II pulls into port in Newcastle in April 2024, it will represent a remarkable full circle for one of Australia’s iconic brands – and for its founders Glen and Karen Moroney.

Newcastle is the company’s headquarters, and where the company’s journey began 37 years ago. Scenic now spans the globe, with offices around the world. Scenic Eclipse II represents that extraordinary quintessentially Australian success story.

In 2024, Scenic Eclipse II will sail The Chairman’s Voyage: East Coast Islands & Reefs Discovery Voyage, departing Newcastle on April 22 for eight nights. Scenic Chairman and Founder Glen Moroney will host a special welcome event.

On the journey to Cairns, guests will be able to delve below the ocean by submarine^ or soar above the water’s surface in one of the two onboard helicopters^, if conditions allow.

Mr Moroney is a pioneering designer. From Europe to Asia, his Scenic Space-Ships still set the benchmark for river cruising. But his work in creating Scenic Eclipse I has taken discovery cruising to new heights.

Guests can indulge in unrivalled six-star luxury. There is exquisite cuisine to be sampled in up to 10 dining experiences, with ocean and paddock-to-plate menus curated by Director of Food & Beverage Chef Tom Götter.

And then there is the yacht’s groundbreaking ability to take guests to the edge of our world – her Polar Class 6 hull meaning no waters are out of reach.

Active cruisers can kayak near spectacular glaciers where they may witness whales breeching or spot a polar bear with its cubs rolling on the icy Arctic shores. Excursions are accompanied by a Discovery Team member, drawn from the line’s 20 experts, from geologists to anthropologists, who will explain what life in the icy region is really about in vivid detail.

The yacht’s helicopters^ provide an unforgettable aerial experience, allowing those returning home the chance to regale family and friends with truly amazing adventures. The two Airbus H130-T2 helicopters^ are designed for optimal flight-seeing excursions. Embrace the chance to see an emperor penguin with an optional helicopter^ excursion to Snow Hill Island, the most northern place in Antarctica where they breed.

Six-star luxury

Above: Scenic  Eclipse II will depart Newcastle, NSW on its first Australian voyage. Below: Artist’s impression of the yacht in Broome.

Scenic Neptune, the ship’s submarine^, promises the most immersive experience – pun intended – to discover the spectacular marine life in crystal clear waters. Scenic Neptune is capable of diving up to 200 metres with six guests on board – just be prepared for a sightseeing experience that is truly unforgettable.

There’s a marina platform on Deck 3 for an invigorating swim in the warm waters of the Mediterranean. And stand-up paddleboard excursions are a way to see these regions from a different perspective. On Expedition and Discovery Voyages, the ship’s 12 Zodiacs, accompanied by a Discovery leader, will take guests to the heart of the action on the ice.

Scenic Eclipse is reserved for only up to 228 guests (200 in Polar regions) in 114 elegant suites with their own private verandahs and personal butlers.

Scenic Eclipse II will debut next year, sailing from Lisbon to Barcelona in April, with bookings available now.

When her keel was laid last year, Mr Moroney said: “Two years ago, we launched the most luxurious and technologically advanced polar cruise vessel ever built. The great success achieved by Scenic Eclipse I and our guests’ continuous praise reaffirmed our desire to launch a sister ship.”

Scenic Eclipse I was christened by Dame Helen Mirren in New York in 2019, and since then has seen many journeys, including itineraries across Antarctica, South Georgia and the Falkland Islands, the Mediterranean, Asia and the Middle East.

Scenic Eclipse II will continue the luxury travel brand’s commitment to innovation and the curation of unique journeys. Scenic continues to innovate and create luxury cruising journeys. CT scenic.com.au

“The great success achieved by Scenic Eclipse I … reaffirmed our desire to launch a sister ship.”

RITZ-CARLTON’S LONG-AWAITED DEBUT

After many delays, The Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection’s first cruise ship, Evrima, has finally taken to the seas. The decor is everything you’d expect from The RitzCarlton, with each room dripping in luxury. Evrima’s first itinerary is a sevennight voyage from Barcelona to Nice, with the ship navigating its way through the Balearic Islands and Mallorca in Spain, as well as a stop in St Tropez, France. The sailing comes after 33 months of delays and frustrating cancellations, following a series of construction issues after the ship was built in a shipyard inexperienced in luxury vessels.

Christmas safari David Attenborough fans will delight in Abercrombie & Kent’s Christmas safari that takes in one of wildlife’s most spectacular events, the annual migration of animals in Kenya and Tanzania in December. Over two million wildebeest, zebra and other herbivores trek from the southern Serengeti to the lush green grasses of the Masai Mara. Known as one of the seven wonders of the world, the great migration is an iconic safari sight. According to A&K: “You’ll see elephants against the backdrop of snow-capped Mt Kilimanjaro, hippo snorting in the Mara River, predators on the prowl in the Serengeti, and birds of all shapes and colours gliding over the landscape. Safari accommodation is of the highest standard – glamorous lodges and luxury tented camps –and you’ll travel in comfort in A&K’s customised 4WD safari vehicles, with expert naturalist guides.” The safari finishes with a three-night stay at luxury lodge Sanctuary Olonana. The 14-day trip departs December 20 and costs $26,785 per person. But hurry – A&K only takes 18 guests.

Detox in style

The holiday shirt Gucci men’s cotton poplin bowling shirt, AU$1,525.

poplin bowling shirt,

If the past few years have taken a toll on your mind and body, then look no further than an ultimate wellness retreat at Anantara Kihavah Maldives Villas. This unique experience goes beyond physical health and takes a holistic approach to rejuvenating both body and mind with two wellness pillars: sleep enrichment and body detox restoration. Anantara Spa’s wellness experts, therapists and nutritionists have developed bespoke programs that cater to everything from digestive issues and nutrition imbalances to stress, anxiety and insomnia. Both the Sleep and Detox programs start with a wellness assessment that includes epigenetic testing and guests leave with lifestyle and diet recommendations to help become their best selves.

Eclipsed

In April 2023, parts of the country will have a view of a hybrid solar eclipse, the first to be visible from Australia in 1,000 years. And if you get yourself onto the right cruise, you’ll have a front-row seat. P&O is offering a solar eclipse cruise aboard Pacific Explorer to view the spectacle as it tracks over the northwest cape of Western Australia, near Exmouth. The five-night Ningaloo King of Eclipses cruise departs Fremantle on April 17. Prices start from $2,424 per person. Ponant’s Le Lapérouse will be positioned in the Timor Sea on April 20 as part of its 16-day Solar Eclipse 2023: Indonesia to Australia’s Kimberley cruise. Smithsonian experts, including a solar astrophysicist, will join the voyage. Prices start from $26,830 per person.

SPAIN’S CHAMPION MIXOLOGISTS

Mixologists are reportedly in shock after a Barcelona bar swept the board at a prestigious awards ceremony in Europe. The World’s 50 Best Bars list – ironically sponsored by Perrier – has been running for 13 years, and habitually the winner has come from one of the two cocktail capitals, London or New York. This year Paradiso, a bar which is tucked behind a

freezer door of a pastrami bar in Barcelona’s cool El Born district, is the newly crowned king (or is it queen?).

“Our cocktails try to push creativity,” one of the bar’s owners says. “The more you work, the more you discover and the more creative you can be. We will celebrate and then go back to the bar to do what we do.” Of the bar’s 15 new cocktails, Fleming is inspired by the discovery of penicillin,

which explores fermentation with a mushroom spore rim. But for “more aesthetic drama”, the hot tot is On Fire, a sharing milk punch cocktail, with bourbon, oloroso sherry, tahini, sweet potato and smoked milk. Served in a clear, round dish, the cocktail uses a laser to create a flame that smokes the Jerez wine. Drinks don’t look or taste like this anywhere but at Paradiso.

PEARLY QUEEN

Cunard has laid the keel on the newest member of its fleet, Queen Anne. The ceremony was held at Fincantieri Marghera shipyard in Venice to celebrate the beginning of her construction, with Captain Inger Thorhauge (left) in attendance. “Over the last three years, world-leading designers have worked with master shipbuilders at Fincantieri to design a ship that reinforces our position as a world-famous luxury brand across all continents,” says Carnival UK President Sture Myrmell. “Queen Anne will be enjoyed for many generations to come, and we look forward to welcoming her to our fleet.” The new ship will begin sailing in early 2024, creating a quartet with Queen Mary 2, Queen Victoria and Queen Elizabeth Queen Anne promises new dining and entertainment experiences, a top deck wellness studio, an updated livery and reimagined signature spaces. The ship will carry up to 3,000 passengers and is the 249th ship in the decorated history of Cunard.

Boho to the max Johanna Ortiz “Dusted with Hope” silk crepe de Chine maxi dress, AU$2,732.

Adventures in Europe are just a sail away. With late nights and overnights in ports that let you roam each country through the lens of a local, get an intimate look at the hidden gems Europe has to offer with your choice of 84 new Europe sailings in 2024 Azamara® ships can take you to many ports only accessible to smaller vessels and into scenic waterways like Norway’s unspoiled Trollfjord and Germany’s Kiel Canal. Sip wine while watching the sunset in Bordeaux at charming châteaus, or join us in Reykjavik for a chance to soak in their famous geothermal Blue Lagoon.

If you’re passionate about a particular country, try one of our Country IntensiveSM Voyages. This travel concept, pioneered by Azamara®, lets you explore deeper as you stop at most, if not all, ports within one country for a more immersive travel experience. We’ve added over 10 new ports in 2024, including Ceuta, Spain, on the coastline of Morocco, where you can walk alongside the medieval City Walls or enjoy its astounding beaches. Another is Porto Santo Stefano, Italy, famous for its seafood restaurants and Spanish fortress. Dine al fresco along the harbour and enjoy the panoramic views.

Best of all, when you book a Balcony stateroom or Suite on our new 2024 voyages, you can receive an Early Booking Bonus* that includes a USD $300 Onboard Credit, unlimited Wi-Fi for one device, and a Premium Beverage Package for two guests!* Let us show you Europe, and change the way you sea.

*Applicable to Club Balcony staterooms and above on select sailings only. Book by date varies per sailing. Sailings from 18th November 2023 to 3rd April 2024 must be booked by 31st December 2022, and sailings up to 29th November 2024 must be booked by 31st August 2023 to receive the offer. See our website for full details and Terms & Conditions. ©2022 Azamara. Ships registered in Malta. ‘Change The Way You Sea’ is an international service mark of SP Cruises OpCo Limited.

Australia’s new five-star river ship

A ustralia is set to get its first five-star river cruise experience with Murray River Paddlesteamers announcing the construction of a AU$6.75 million vessel. Hosting 40 guests at a time, the luxury paddlesteamer will have fine dining, a panoramic lounge, bars and outdoor viewing areas. “We know Australians love cruising, I think we’re the biggest cruisers in the world,” says Murray River Paddlesteamers Director Craig Burgess. “But there’s no

Art Attack

Oceania Cruises has thrown its weight behind Australian art and culture, forming a partnership with the Museum of Contemporary Art Australia (MCA) in Sydney. Oceania Cruises is a supporting partner of this summer’s major exhibition by South Korean artist Do Ho Suh, whose work Staircase-III (2010) is pictured at right. “We are delighted to announce our partnership with the Museum of Contemporary Art Australia, supporting the MCA’s Sydney International Art Series,” says Steve Odell, Senior Vice President and Managing Director Asia Pacific Oceania Cruises. “Our two O-Class ships, Marina and Riviera, are home to some of the most extensive art collections at sea ... We cannot wait to support the work of contemporary artists, and to explore the MCA’s outstanding Sydney International Art Series with our discerning guests.”

Pop the cork Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque 120-Year Anniversary Bottle, AU$379.99.

five-star river cruising in Australia. There is a gap there and we hope that this will fill that gap. It will attract passengers that have probably done their European tours and are looking for something closer to home and didn’t realise there’s a river experience at the top level, akin to a Scenic river cruise.” Guests can look forward to excursion-heavy itineraries with guided tours of Echuca, coach tours to silo arts and eating damper by the riverside.

Rising from the ashes

Two years after Baillie Lodges’ awardwinning flagship property, Southern Ocean Lodge, on Kangaroo Island was razed in bushfires, the rebuild has started. Dubbed SOL 2.0, the new-look lodge is slated to open

in the second half of 2023. It will be eerily familiar to past guests. The original lodge footprint has been maintained with 25 guest suites easing along the coastline. The redesign promises even better views of the ocean and coastal wilderness, sea mists and thundering waves breaking on the shore. A new ultra-premium suite, the 640 sq m Ocean Pavilion, sits remotely, o ering expansive views, an outdoor terrace with a wet-edge pool and up to four bedrooms and bathrooms, or a combination of two separate suites. Sadly you can’t book yet, but visit southernoceanlodge.com.au to stay up to date.

Enjoy everything from TrulyTouchlessTM experiences, to locating your loved ones anywhere on the ship, as well as enhanced service like having whatever you need, delivered. You can enjoy the convenience and connectedness of MedallionClass no matter where you sail. Stay connected and spend more time doing what you love on a Princess MedallionClass holiday.

Enjoy everything from TrulyTouchlessTM experiences, to locating your loved ones anywhere on the ship, as well as enhanced service like having whatever you need, delivered. You can enjoy the convenience and connectedness of MedallionClass no matter where you sail. Stay connected and spend more time doing what you love on a Princess MedallionClass holiday.

BRING OUT THE CRYSTAL

The Crystal Cruises ships Crystal Serenity and Crystal Symphony are on their way after A&K Travel Group (the travel company founded by Geo rey Kent and Heritage, a company chaired by Manfredi Lefebvre d’Ovidio) purchased the vessels. The ships will be more luxurious than ever after their extensive refurbishments in Trieste, Italy. “The idea of combining the unparalleled onboard service that Crystal Cruises is known for with the tailormade experiences Abercrombie & Kent has been successfully providing for our guests for the past 60 years, fills me with excitement, enthusiasm and pride,” says Kent. Manfredi Lefebvre, the former owner of Silversea Cruises, says, “When the opportunity arose to acquire Crystal Cruises, I did not think about it twice. Having next to me my incredible friend and inspiring leader Geo rey Kent makes this venture even more enjoyable.” The cruise ships will resume operations in 2023.

The Middle East has a massive new resort, the Jumeirah Gulf of Bahrain Resort & Spa. The hotel on a private beach on Bahrain’s southwest coast o ers a secluded paradise of tropical greenery and water features. There are a wealth of fitness and wellness facilities, including the award-winning Talise Spa. Stay in one of 196 rooms and suites, or for added opulence, there’s an 11-bedroom Gulf Summer House. Eight restaurants o er plenty of dining choice and include a Bahraini restaurant that gives a real taste of the Arab sheikhdom. If you book before November 30, 2022, there’s an opening special of 15 per cent o  the best available rate and a bonus resort credit per stay.

down jacket, AU$2,191.

Barging ahead in France

European Waterways lays claim to being Europe’s largest luxury hotel barge cruising company and it’s upping the ante for its 2023/24 season in France. New experiences on the eight-passenger hotel barge Anjodi’s Canal du Midi cruises include a private tasting of Languedoc wines at Château Pech-Celeyran and a truffle hunt led by truffle dogs in the Minervois hills. In May and June, the barge Panache is treating lovers of Champagne and the Champagne-region to private winery tours of Moët & Chandon and Maison Pannier. More excursions are listed in the 2023/24 brochure on europeanwaterways.com.

Bahrain’s new Jumeirah retreat

Moncler “Maya 70”

Conquer the mysteries of Peru

Peru is one of the most staggering treasures on the planet. Discover the mysteries of Machu Picchu, the lost city of the Incas, experience the colonial splendour and indigenous cultures of Cusco, and venture into the Amazon for sublime encounters with nature – on a 14-day bespoke luxury itinerary, seamlessly orchestrated for the private traveller.

The journey begins with three immersive days in Lima, a colourful bohemian hub overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Savour the real Peru with a gastronomic journey for the senses. Wander to the local market to source fresh ingredients, and with a pisco sour in hand, you’ll become sous chef for the day as a local chef shares Lima’s classic recipes.

Spend two days exploring the Amazon and its elusive wildlife with a naturalist in tow. Glide in a wooden canoe across an oxbow lake, spotting red howler monkeys, red-bellied macaws, side-neck turtles and black caimans. Take to the remarkable Inkaterra Canopy Walkway, high above the jungle floor, where you’ll encounter bright toucans, woodpeckers, trogons, monkeys and the three-toed sloth.

Next, discover the spectacular ruins of the Sacred Valley of the Incas over two fascinating days. Visit a remote village where you’ll experience a complete cultural immersion with local farmers and their families, learning ancient agricultural methods first-hand, observing woodfired cooking and mudbrick baking, and uncovering the vibrant Peruvian art of plant-based cloth dyeing.

Ascend to Machu Picchu via the elegant 1920s-style Sacred Valley train. Sit back and absorb the majestic Andean landscape as you wind through the mountains and cloud forest to the lost city. Unravel its mysteries over two days with an expert historian, enjoying climbs to the ‘Inti Punku’ for astounding views of the fortress.

Venture to a remote secluded site in the Peruvian Andes in search of a time-honoured spiritual ceremony. A local shaman greets you, and then leads a sacred ritual honouring Pachamama, the Andean mother earth deity with a unique and magical coca leaf reading.

Conclude the trip at Lake Titicaca with three exquisite days of wellness and wilderness on the world’s highest navigable lake. CT abercrombiekent.com.au

A world of colour

From top: Be calmed by the beauty of Lake Titicaca and the local Quechua; wonder at the Incan city of Machu Picchu; learn the secrets to Andean textiles.

Latin America with A& K

A&K has been delivering private Tailor-Made Journeys, Luxury Small Group Journeys and Wings Over the World journeys (by private chartered air) to Latin America for 20 years.

With seven wholly owned offices dotted across the continent, experience the A&K difference only made possible by their widespread presence on the ground.

No one can take you there quite like A&K.

ABERCROMBIE & KENT

Princess goes MEGA

Princess Cruises has lifted the curtain on its next generation of sailing, introducing the world to the new Sun Princess.

The line with the most ships in Australian waters and a regular favourite among local cruisers, Princess Cruises, has announced it is going bigger and better.

Currently under construction at the famous Fincantieri shipyard and set to meet the ocean in 2024, the giant 175,500ton Sun Princess will be the cruise line’s biggest ship ever. The new Sphere-class ship will treat its 4,300 guests to panoramic views, bustling venues, high-tech entertainment and multifloor dining. The inaugural season will feature a range of Mediterranean itineraries, with the first three voyages now available for booking.

“A show-stopping, first-of-its-kind Dome on the top deck and suspended glass Piazza in the centre of Sun Princess offer innovative designs showcasing expansive ocean views for incredible opportunities to connect with the sea,” says Princess Cruises President John Padgett.

Princess has embraced Italian heritage with the spectacular three-story Piazza, where impressive architecture and LED lighting create a unique centrepiece for the ship. Meanwhile, The Dome – modelled on the iconic terraces of Santorini – is a multi-level deck covered by an enclosed glass-roof structure that is the first of its kind on a cruise ship. The Dome will have innovative lighting and aerial performance capabilities.

A peaksneak

+ The Dome

This relaxation space will be an indoor/outdoor pool by day, and then a sweeping stage by night.

+ The Piazza

This light-filled atrium will be a hub of activity on Sun Princess cruises. Spanning multiple decks, The Piazza sports a central LED screen for live entertainment programming.

+ Staterooms

Among the staterooms, there will be 50 suites and 100 connecting rooms. The Deluxe Balcony cabin features floor-to-ceiling glass doors to the balcony and at 22 sq m is almost double the size of an interior cabin. The largest cabin is the two-bedroom Signature Sky Suite at 117 sq m. A stay in this suite comes with all the trimmings, including a shore-side concierge, reserved bungalows at Princess Cays, complimentary wine tastings, and ultimate balcony dining.

First look at the new Sun Princess

From top: Pool/entertainment venue The Dome; Cabana Mini Suites have a private outdoor area opening on to the Cabana Deck; the three-storey Piazza atrium.

Among the 2,157 staterooms on board, you can expect the spectacular. Much of the opulence will be found in the Signature Collection, a new level of suite accommodation exclusive to Sun Princess and offering access to the Signature restaurant, lounge and sun deck, in a private area of The Sanctuary.

What was previously known as Club Class accommodation will be called the Reserve Collection, and it will be the best location for those looking to purchase mini-suite staterooms. It will also offer access to an exclusive restaurant.

On board, there will be more than 29 bars and restaurants, including a new coffee shop, Coffee Currents, and Bellini’s Cocktail Bar. Sun Princess will also boast 1,500 balconies – the most of any ship in the Princess fleet.

Sustainability is also core to the design, with Sun Princess part of Carnival Corporation’s green cruising focus. The ship will be the first of the cruise line’s fleet to be powered by liquified natural gas (LNG), which burns cleaner to reduce air emissions.

Deck plans for the ship’s guest room locations are now available on the Princess website, but the exact locations of public areas on board are still being kept hush-hush. CT princess.com

Discover the Wonder & Treasures of the Americas

Whether cruising through fjords in remote Alaska, snorkelling with the turtles in Galápagos, enjoying a culinary journey through Mendoza’s winelands, trekking through the ancient ruins of Peru or taking a thrilling heli-flight over staggering Iguazú Falls — wherever you go across the Americas, you’ll fall in love with an infectious people steeped in warmth, laughter and music.

A&K’s expert guides are true locals in every destination. With privileged access, unrivalled insight, a long-standing presence on the ground and handpicked accommodations that blend consummate luxury into landscapes of beauty, A&K sets the benchmark for tailor-made journeys across North, Central and South America. With A&K an adventure to the Americas will indulge your wildest imaginings.

Peru in Depth

Peru conceals some of the world’s most astonishing attractions. From the rainforest wonders of the Amazon and the Inca treasures, to the ruins of Machu Picchu and the islands of Lake Titicaca — find yourself in handpicked hotels, alongside welcoming locals and world-class gastronomy, all delivered in classic A&K style. 14 days from $11,870 pp

Treasures of Argentina

Discover a wonderful world of contrasts in Argentina. From the sensuous vibe of sophisticated Buenos Aires and the roaring spectacle of Iguazú Falls to the winemaking prowess of Mendoza — sample mouth-watering cuisine and wines, and even learn how to create your own delicacies. This is the true Argentina. 13 days from $12,095 pp

Wonders of Chile

Chile flaunts natural wonders on an epic scale, with an incredibly diverse landscape of deserts, valleys, volcanoes, ancient forests, massive glaciers and breathtaking fjords. Immerse yourself in charismatic Santiago, the ethereal Atacama Desert and the soul-stirring wilderness of Patagonia on an unforgettable Chilean adventure. 11 days from $13,250 pp

Call 1300 589 717, visit www.abercrombiekent.com.au or contact your travel agent to find out more.

Tailor-Made Adventures | Small Group Journeys | Luxury Expedition Cruises

THE ART OF CRUISING

The Art Gallery Society of New South Wales and luxury cruise line Regent Seven Seas Cruises have a new partnership. The Regent Seven Seas community will connect with the Art Gallery Society’s members and support events at the gallery. The timing is opportune as the Art Gallery of NSW’s new extension, the AU$344 million Sydney Modern, opens this year. Regent Seven Seas has a breathtaking art collection on board its fleet sourced from artists and galleries around the world, including pieces by Pablo Picasso and Joan Miró. Regent invested AU$7 million into its 300-piece art collection for Seven Seas Splendour. You can hear more about the collection from Regent’s Senior Vice President Steve Odell on our podcast series at: cruisepassenger.com.au/podcast/

Private jet tours with Aman Hotels

A man Hotels & Resorts has released its private jet expedition itineraries for 2023. Designed for travellers looking for complete luxury, the trips aim to encompass the geological beauty, richness of culture and spiritual significance of each destination – whether it be Morocco, Laos, New York or Utah – all while staying in Aman resorts and flying around by private jet.

Highlight itineraries include the 21-night Grandest Tour from Tokyo to Venice and the 14-night Adventures in the Americas journey. On the latter, you’ll see a di erent side of the Americas, starting at the Aman Hotel New York, and visiting Bermuda, the Dominican Republic, Turks and Caicos, Mexico, Utah and Wyoming.

Cause a ker-ruffle

Aje “Amour” linen-blend midi dress, AU$725.

PAUL GAUGUIN 2024 CRUISES

Two new cruises are among the 33 sailings and seven destinations in Paul Gauguin Cruises’ release of 2024 itineraries. The new cruises are a seven-night More Society Islands & Tahiti itinerary and a 14-night Islands of the Marquesas & Tuamotus voyage, which includes first-time visits to Hatiheu and Hakahau. “We are eager to showcase the beauty of the South Pacific to the world’s most savvy travellers ... from the Society and Cook Islands to the Marquesas, Tuamotus, Tonga and Fiji,” says Navin Sawhney, CEO of the Americas for Paul Gauguin Cruises. Excitingly there are many itineraries that o er overnight stops in Moorea, with Bora Bora being a customer favourite, as well as cruises to the Kingdom of Tonga and to the Fakarava Biosphere Reserve in the Tuamotu Archipelago.

Oceans

HIGH PRICE of POPULARITY

The popularity of our most pristine destination, the Kimberley, has sparked a debate about how to ensure its unique charm, reports Peter Lynch.

Western Australia’s deputy premier and tourism minister, Roger Cook, has a problem many travel marketers would welcome. The Kimberley, in WA’s remote north-west, which boasts two World Heritage sites and is renowned as a wilderness paradise, is in danger of being too popular for its own good.

This season and next will see the largest number of lines and ships ever to visit this pristine area of natural beauty. It has sparked a spirited debate about what needs to happen to preserve its future.

Lines that maintain a self-regulated code of conduct, such as Coral Expeditions and Ponant, are needed to ensure that ships don’t congregate at highlights, including at Horizontal Falls, King George Falls, Kings Cascades and Montgomery Reef.

An added complexity is new federal legislation allowing superyachts to sail – meaning large foreignflagged vessels carrying 12 passengers or less could enter the sometimes treacherous waters with crews with little or no experience of the conditions.

A number of newcomers are planning voyages, while others are stepping up vessel numbers, including Silversea, Scenic, Lindblad and Swan Hellenic. They will join established Kimberley operators Coral Expeditions, Ponant, APT and True North.

In October, the WA Government held a summit for cruise line and industry representatives to discuss the issue of how to manage the extraordinary popularity of the Kimberley.

Jeff Gillies from Coral Expeditions, which has been cruising the Kimberley for 23 years, told Cruise&Travel: “We had good discussions on the Kimberley environment

and potential impact of overcrowding, and the WA government and lines agreed to continue discussions with the development of some practical recommendations and solutions.”

Coral Expeditions is preparing a further submission and pressing to ensure long-standing cruise lines are given priority.

“The Kimberley is a pristine environment that is often described as one of the world’s last true wilderness areas,” says Cook. “Work is already underway to identify and implement long-term solutions to best showcase the Kimberley coastal experience while safeguarding the pristine marine environment now and into the future.”

“There’s also another layer to the over-crowding challenges in the Kimberley,” says Gillies. “Two years ago, the Federal Government pushed through some overnight legislation giving coastal trading freedom to superyachts for passengers of 12 and under which has not been in place before.

“Australian-flagged operators objected, based less on competitive grounds but on the grounds that these yachts and crews are not adept at operating in challenging remote regions.”

Gillies says the 11-metre tides that occur in parts of the Kimberley mean that inexperienced seafarers can get stranded in the wrong place, at the wrong time.

The Kimberley Coast is home to more than 30 per cent of Australia’s islands, and life is dominated by tides that are the biggest in the Southern Hemisphere. To put it into perspective,

In the Kimberley Clockwise, from top left: True North Cruises; Wandjina rock art; King George River Zodiac excursion with Ponant; Rowley Shoals Marine Park; Zodiac tour at Mongomery Reef with Silversea.

the 11-metre difference between high and low tide is about the height of a two-storey house.

“This year alone in the Kimberley we have seen numerous superyachts anchored up in front of key landscape sights and on two occasions we have been required to rescue them due to their inability to control vessels in the tides,” says Gillies. “Add another 15 white superyachts to the mix and the wilderness landscape in the Kimberley is further affected.”

Cruise Broome chair Shayne Murray agrees that training, or a system similar to port pilots, would be a good way to mitigate safety concerns. He also hopes a voluntary registry of sailing plans could be established.

The Kimberley, a jewel in Australia’s cruising crown, is in serious danger of becoming overcrowded as more and more cruise lines plan to sail in the region.

Next year, Ponant is bringing its three-masted sailing yacht Le Ponant to the Kimberley – an important step in giving the area a unique green alternative as it will be the only sailing vessel to ply the region.

Ponant’s Asia-Pacific chair, Sarina Bratton, a leading industry figure whose Orion Expeditions sailed the area over a decade ago, told Cruise&Travel: “Via the Kimberley Marine Tourism Association and the DBCA [WA’s Department of Biodiversity, Conservation and Attractions] we have been in dialogue with both groups for a number of years.

“The co-operation and collaboration of international expedition operators in the remote and pristine areas of Antarctica and the Arctic are well tested. This is via IAATO for Antarctica and AECO for the Arctic. These organisations also set certain minimum operating standards and codes of contact.

“The intent of this collaboration is to not have multiple ships in the one bay, at the one time. We encourage that an organisation similar to IAATO would be of benefit. The key principle is cooperation and collaboration. It must involve all operators trading in the region.” CT

“We have seen numerous superyachts anchored up in front of key landscape sights and on two occasions we have been required to rescue them.”

The ultimate Kimberley exploration in barefoot luxury...

In 2023 PONANT together with Paspaley, will deliver an Australian first – the pinnacle Kimberley experience, featuring PONANT’s flagship luxury yacht, Le Ponant. Limited to just 32 discerning guests, each sailing also features an exclusive transfer on board one of Paspaley’s Grumman Mallard flying boats, providing memorable visual perspectives of the Kimberley region. Having undergone a complete transformation in 2022 and now heading back to sea, Le Ponant offers her guests an exclusive travel experience.

• Kimberley itineraries from April to September 2023

• Luxury three-masted yacht refurbished in 2022

• Limited to a maximum of 32 guests per sailings

• High-end service with 1:1 crew to passenger ratio

• 16 staterooms & suites including an Owner’s Suite

• Panoramic restaurant offering world-class cuisine

• 4 Zodiacs for expeditions and shore landings

• 4 Expedition Guides available on board

• Spa featuring Biologique Recherche

• Sun lounge, exterior bar and marina

Charter rates available - speak to PONANT for more information. Contact your preferred travel agent or a PONANT consultant for more information or for our charter rates 1300 737 178 (AU) | 0800 767 018 (NZ) | reservations.aus@ponant.com | au.ponant.com

Private transfer flights on Paspaley’s Grumman Mallard flying boats flying boats

The pinnacle Kimberley experience

AN AUSTRALIAN FIRST

©Studio PONANT-Nick Rains, Nathalie Michel; Design International; Studio Jean-Philippe NUEL; Paspaley.

“WOW”is

There are many magical moments on a cruise of Alaska, from witnessing nature’s raw power at work to rejoicing at a stress-free voyage, writes Sue Bryant.

Nature’s gift

Above: Enjoying the scenery on an Alaskan cruise.

Right: Bear sighting at Kodiak Island.

salmon-pink streaks the dawn sky and the water is silky smooth. I lean over the railing of my balcony and inhale the freshest air imaginable, the piney scent of spruce and hemlock on the breeze.

The forested coast of British Columbia is on one side of the ship and mountainous Vancouver Island, at 460 kilometres long, is on the other. I’m savouring this moment of feeling completely alone when a black dorsal fin breaks the water. Six dorsal fins, in fact, one of them tiny. A pod of orca, with a calf in tow, is checking us out.

This was just one of many “wow” moments on a seven-night cruise from Vancouver to Seward on Regent’s 684-passenger Seven Seas Mariner. Over the week, we hiked, spotted whales, searched for bears, kayaked, traced the path of the Gold Rush, got wet, got sunburned and ate an impossible amount of Alaskan salmon.

But what struck me the most, the constant backdrop of jawdroppingly dramatic mountain scenery apart, was just how easy and stress-free this voyage was. Of course, all cruises are billed as a stress-free way to travel, but there are few where I could say that this is a reality.

What made this one different? The fact that Regent is allinclusive is a big deal. Not just drinks on board; everything is thrown in. We were met at Vancouver Airport, whisked to the Fairmont Hotel by private car, and delivered to the ship the next morning. Excursion tickets and restaurant reservations were waiting in our suite. Our cabin steward produced a bottle of gin, tonic, lemon and an ice bucket for the minibar. The lifeboat drill was quick and efficient. The internet worked. All this meant that very shortly after embarkation, we were happily tucking into huge salads and chilled rosé in the blazing Vancouver sunshine, float planes zipping back and forth across the bay, and yachts out on the water.

Everybody gathered on deck for sail away, champagne flowing as we slid under the Lions Gate Bridge, leaving Vancouver Harbour and setting a course north. Looking around, I was surprised; I’d expected Regent’s clientele to be older but several families were on board. And while the vast majority of the 555 passengers were American, there were 14 nationalities among us, including 12 Australians.

I’ve been to Alaska before and while it’s possible to find a decent cruise at a lower price than you’d pay for Regent, the budget-buster is the excursions, which are uniformly expensive. Ten years ago, a ziplining tour from Ketchikan for me and two children cost upwards of AU$880. So it’s a huge bonus that Regent includes excursions; not just one token tour in each port, but a wide choice. As an example, in Ketchikan alone, we could have gone canoeing, sea kayaking or hiking; joined a Duck tour or a rainforest expedition; or indulged in a crab feast, a pub crawl or a lumberjack show. We pre-booked activities in every port, which on other cruise lines could have cost well over AU$1,000 each.

Mariner is one of Regent’s older ships, less grand in feel than the swanky new Explorer or Splendor. Our suite was done out in pale marble, cream and pale olive, with a big balcony and a bathroom filled with L’Occitane products. The ship’s

interiors are elegant and contemporary without being flashy or intimidating. Mariner, as one officer put it, is the seagoing equivalent of a “big, warm hug” – and she was right. I’ve never sailed with such happy, friendly crew in such a soothing environment.

As we wove our way through the island-specked Inside Passage, I went to a talk by social anthropologist Terry Breen to learn more about the 49th state. Alaska, she said, has three million lakes, the highest coastal mountain range in the world, a mere 740,000 inhabitants and more private pilots than any other US state, as it’s more useful to be able to fly a plane than drive a car.

Heavy, grey skies hung over Ketchikan, our first port, the clouds brushing the tips of the forest. I joined a kayak trip around Eagle Island, where a massive bald eagle’s nest rests in the top of a tree. As the sun emerged, one resident of the nest perched on a treetop, watching for the silver flash of a salmon. Harbour seals popped their heads out of the water to inspect the kayaks. The trees along the shoreline were festooned with strings of Methuselah’s beard, a bluegreen lichen that can only thrive in exceptionally clean air.

“ Seven Seas Mariner, as one officer put it, is the seagoing equivalent of a ‘big, warm hug’ – and she was right.”

REGENT SEVEN SEAS

The Alaskan adventure

Clockwise, from far left: Dining at Chartreuse on Seven Seas Mariner; the Compass Rose restaurant; the pool lounge; excursion to Ketchikan; and whale-watching.

Concierge

What should I pack?

Pack for all eventualities in Alaska. Waterproof hiking trousers and a lightweight waterproof top are essential. Wear layers underneath as conditions can vary from hot and sunny to windy and wet. Good walking boots are a must, too. Bring binoculars to spot whales, eagles and bears.

On board Seven Seas Mariner, evenings are “elegant casual”. There are no formal nights on the Alaska itineraries, so no need for tuxedos and long dresses. Most people change into something smarter for dinner, though; collared shirts for men and no jeans. Remember that laundry is included; it’s

very easy to sink into a routine of sending your washing off in the morning and having it returned that night, immaculately pressed, nestling in tissue paper in a presentation box.

Favourite excursion?

My favourite excursion was whale watching, without a doubt. You will see whales and dolphins from the ship but a whale-watching boat trip gets you much closer to the animals (in a responsible manner, of course) and the wildlife guides on board have incredible knowledge. In Auke Bay, they can even identify individual whales by their behaviour, tail flukes and the company

of other whales that they keep. You don’t just see whales; there are harbour seals to spot, colourful sea stars at the water’s edge, eagles in the trees and huge haul-outs of Steller sea lions.

Insider tip Plan ahead. Book excursions in advance as they do fill up, especially the included ones. Try all the restaurants, too. Prime 7 and Chartreuse don’t cost any extra and they’re excellent, but you do need to book. Ask for a window table; there’s always something to see in the evenings, from blazing sunsets to dolphins escorting the ship out of port.

In Juneau, I opted for a whale-watching tour in Auke Bay. Here, the tree-tufted peaks of rocky islands are actually the tops of submerged mountains, and humpbacks come to feed in the deep, nutrient-rich trenches between the islands. We quickly spotted a whale blow and over the course of a couple of hours, a further 14 animals, swimming, diving, logging (lying still in the water) and as a grand finale, breaching, leaping right out of the water and crashing down with a mighty splash.

Everywhere we went, the scenery deserved as much attention as the wildlife. Blue-white glaciers edged over distant hanging valleys in a brooding, monochrome landscape of grey sea and grey sky, wisps of mist hanging in the air. Shafts of sunlight illuminated the bottle green of the spruce and hemlock trees. Towering mountain peaks were splotched with snow, even in August.

Nowhere, though, was the scenery more spectacular than Skagway. I’d become fascinated by the stories of the Gold Rush of 1897, when some 100,000 prospectors dragged their gear on foot and horseback over the impossibly steep White Pass, one of only two routes from the coast to the goldfields of the Yukon. Conditions were horrendous; snow and ice in winter, mud in summer, and more than 3,000 horses died.

Shortly after the stampede fizzled out, the White Pass and Yukon Route railroad was built. Today, its vintage carriages trundle a spectacular, narrow-gauge track up across the pass to White Horse in Canada. The train rattles along the contours of the mountains, clattering over impossibly spindly bridges, as waterfalls tumble down cliff faces. At one point, the original trail, no more than 30 centimetres wide, follows the track of the railway, a reminder of how treacherous the route must have been.

No such hardship on Mariner, where we’d settled into a routine of sunset martinis, cocktail melodies and spectacular meals. Food on board is essentially what you want it to be; gourmet international and French cuisine, or rib-eye, lobster tail and lamb chops every day. Or my choice, healthier dishes of

Breaking the ice Champagne on deck with an up-close view of the Hubbard glacier; Seven Seas Mariner on one of its Alaskan journeys.

REGENT SEVEN SEAS

“We were in front of a sheer wall of blue-white ice, shot through with streaks of sapphire, rumbling and emitting cracking sounds.”

poke bowls and Thai curries. I found a juice bar at breakfast for ginger shots and gorged myself at the salad bar for lunch. Much of this effort was undone at afternoon tea, which one day included an entire buffet of cheesecakes, from red velvet to sticky toffee, apple and caramel and chocolate.

There was still time for burning off the cheesecake at Icy Strait Point on the densely forested Chichagof Island, where there are allegedly more bears than people. We joined a hike to the Spasski river, a prime bear-watching spot, traipsing through the primeval, lichen-draped forest, the only sound was the call of ravens and the gentle spatter of rain on leaves. Bald eagles eyed us from the trees. Giant and unfamiliar plants crowded the damp forest floor.

Salmon were leaping in the river, trying to force their way upstream. We could see bear tracks – but no bears revealed themselves that day. I didn’t

really mind; sometimes, knowing the animals are there is enough. Besides, the adventure wasn’t over. I got up early on the final day to find my fellow passengers downing bloody marys and mimosas in the Observation Lounge. There was an air of excitement, not just fuelled by such decadent early-in-the-day drinking. Outside, we were in front of a sheer wall of blue-white ice, shot through with streaks of sapphire, rumbling and emitting pistol-shot cracking sounds. The ship was slowly approaching the mighty Hubbard Glacier. Captain Aivo Palm slowly spun her around in a balletic circle, so we could take in the 5,480-metre mountains plunging straight into the sea and rivers of ice flowing down rock faces, feeding the glacier. The scene summed up the cruise to me: the raw power and beauty of nature, balanced by just the right level of decadence. CT

HURTIGRUTEN EXPEDITIONS

Experience an Arctic summer

with icebergs the size of skyscrapers and unbelievable sightings of the northern lights, pristine and remote Greenland has all the hallmarks of a bucket-list destination and tourist hotspot.

Yet, this fragile Danish territory, permanently shrouded by one of the world’s two permanent ice sheets, is worried that while it wants tourists to visit, it also wants to protect its ecosystem and local jobs.

Greenland, also known as the Land of People, is beautifully pristine and peaceful with almost 80 per cent of its land covered by an ice cap and glaciers. On Greenland’s west coast, the Ilulissat Icefjord, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the most productive glacier in the Northern Hemisphere. You can see pale blue glacial ice sparkle in the sun, walk through lush green valleys and untouched Arctic tundra, and look for amazing wildlife such as polar bears, snowy owls and white Arctic foxes.

As Greenland is so isolated and without a real road system, one of the best ways to step back into the Ice Age and get up close and personal to the island is on a cruise. And what better way to do so than with the experts?

Greenland sights Clockwise, from right: Greeting locals in centralwestern Greenland; passing an iceberg; MS Fram in Disko Bay; the Ilulissat glacier; the northerly town of Upernavik; remote Aappilattoq in the south.

Hurtigruten Expedition ships take you to experience places few others have ever visited, from the vastness of Northeast Greenland National Park to a beach in remote Disko Bay. Hurtigruten’s expedition leaders are specially trained to unlock the secrets of this immaculate island wilderness and aim to bring you closer to the magnificent scenery and unique culture of the Inuit who have been living in the Arctic and subarctic regions of Greenland for thousands of years. Here you will see how the resourceful indigenous people manage to exist in such

Hurtigruten’s Greenland expeditions sail to places few people ever visit.

harsh conditions. There are rock carvings and cultural memorabilia in Qaqortoq, southern Greenland, clothing in Sisimiut is still made in a time-honoured way from musk-ox fur, while in the capital of Nuuk, contemporary architecture sits alongside traditional painted wooden houses set against the dramatic backdrop of mountain peaks. For fit and adventurous-at-heart travellers, there are kayaking trips where you may spot seals and whales, and you can experience the elements in ways you have never imagined before.

To immerse yourself in Greenland’s culture and landscape, then venture on an expedition cruise during summer (June to August) when the melting ice makes it possible to navigate the fjords and bays along the coast. In central Greenland the sun doesn’t set from the end of May until the end of July, and July and August are the only months when Greenland’s average daily temperature is above freezing – perfect for expeditions. CT

Takinginitiativethe

Sustainability issues and green ship technology have always been very close to the heart of Hurtigruten Expeditions. The line is a leader in green ship technology and built the world’s first battery-hybrid powered expedition ship, MS Fridtjof Nansen, which explores remote corners of the globe.

In social initiatives, the line launched the Hurtigruten Foundation in 2015 which in Greenland supports the important work of Sapiik and The Association of Greenlandic Children which aim, through education, to help improve the lives of vulnerable children in Greenland. The Hurtigruten Foundation is also supporting other efforts such as a buddy system, which is under development, where a responsible adult will accompany children when they have to meet social authorities. Summer camps are also organised to give vulnerable children new and exciting experiences.

GREENLAND ITINERARIES

Disko Bay – The Heart of Greenland

This 16-day MS Fridtjof Nansen expedition cruise is priced from AU$11,535 per person. Departures: In 2023 and 2024 there are four Disko Bay cruises per year, with departures in June or July.

Greenland Summer Explorer

A 20-day expedition aboard MS Maud starts from AU$12,585 per person. Departures: 20 July 2023; 18 July 2024.

– A True Arctic Expedition

The 17-day cruise aboard MS Maud starts from AU$10,335 per person.

Departures: 18 August 2023; 2 September 2023; 16 August 2024; 1 September 2024.

Greenland The Ultimate Fjord Expedition

The 13-day cruise aboard MS Fram starts from AU$10,334 per person. Departures: 2 August 2023; 11 August 2024.

For more information, see hurtigruten.com.au.

East Greenland and Svalbard

“During summer, the melting ice makes it possible to navigate the fjords and bays along Greenland’s coast.”

Winds of change

Le Ponant will sail the Kimberley next year, bringing an entirely new experience to an iconic destination. Louise Goldsbury discovered the delights of life under sail.

On the right tack Three-masted yacht Le Ponant shines the spotlight on the art of sailing for cruisers.

Lying on a yoga mat on the top deck at sunset, gazing up at the three masts pointing to the heavens, I feel like the real paradise is where I am right now: mid-meditation, mid-ocean, mid-ship, Le Ponant

Does the destination even matter on a vessel like this on a day like today? Geographically, we’re somewhere between two Greek Islands on the Ionian or Aegean Sea. It’s not relevant to my relaxation at this blissful moment in time. I ask Johanna not to bother translating this last part of the class, preferring the soothing sound of her French words and accent.

Soon I will go downstairs for dinner with only 18 other guests, as if we have chartered our own boat with two chefs and four waiters. Chef Cedric’s menu may offer caviar, truffle and foie gras, or gourmet creations with duck, octopus or a whole roasted seabream. There will definitely be wine and cheese, before a masterpiece dessert, and a friendly chat with restaurant manager Nicolas. Afterwards, we might be tempted by a complimentary cocktail suggested by bar manager Ludovic. Lychee fizz, gin bramble, spicy mango caipirinha, or white port and tonic with orange and mint?

In the morning, my butler, Aurelien, will ask if I need anything, and I won’t be able to think of a thing. Then, on my way to breakfast on the terrace, Jeffrey will greet me with his lovely smile and a freshly squeezed orange juice. This is where my routine ends. The rest of the day could be spent paddle-boarding in Kythnos, roaming around a

“In the morning, my butler, Aurelien, will ask if I need anything, and I won’t be able to think of a thing.”

LE PONANT

Venetian-style village in Kefalonia, or tasting olive oil at a family-run estate in Monemvasia, surrounded by vineyards and mountains.

In Paxos, I have lunch with friends at a seaside taverna and browse boutiques selling flowy dresses, woven bags and hats. From the port of Fiskardo, I selfdrive a tiny motorboat (no licence required) and zip along the coastline to three or four locations. Although the snorkelling is underwhelming wherever I drop anchor, it’s the best chance to find a secluded cove to yourself.

Not much bigger than the private boats circling the Cyclades, Le Ponant avoids the larger, crowded ports of Europe. Onboard activities also lean toward yachting, such as a marine knots workshop offered by officer cadet Jules, or simply reading your book on the sun deck under the sails. When conditions allow, an inflatable sea pool is attached to the aft marina platform for guests to swim off the back of the ship. On a sea day, my highlight is a massage by spa therapist Elaura, in the spa treatment room which was added this year.

Le Ponant underwent a major refit, completed in August, which created a more sophisticated look to match its yacht-like intimacy. The new design by Jean-Philippe Nuel Studio, known for its work with upscale hotels, revamped the interiors with a minimalist approach. Unprecedented in the industry, the most significant change was a 50 per cent reduction in accommodation – from 32 to 16 cabins. Each of the rooms, including a 56 sq m owner’s suite, also received new bathrooms and furnishings, refreshed from floor to ceiling.

The yachting life

Clockwise, from left: Calm seas for sailing; Le Ponant experience, from relaxing on deck and fine-dining to Zodiac trips; our writer visited picturesque Monemvasia in Greece.

Le Ponant’s 2023 Kimberley cruises

After completing its voyages in Europe and the Seychelles, the 32-passenger Le Ponant will offer 26 sailings of three different itineraries in the Kimberley, Western Australia, from April to October 2023, led by Captain Pascal Goger and an expedition team of naturalist guides.

The Northern Kimberley Expedition visits Prince Frederick Harbour, King George River and the Gwion Gwion rock art sites. The Southern Kimberley Expedition covers the Horizontal Falls, Montgomery Reef and the Buccaneer Archipelago. Both itineraries include a charter flight between Broome or Kununurra and Kuri Bay on Paspaley’s vintage Grumman Mallard amphibious aircraft to take guests to or from their embarkation point, as well as a guided tour of the Paspaley pearl farms. Fares start at AU$16,860 per person, twin-share for a seven-night cruise including meals, drinks, excursions, WiFi and transfers, plus two nights of pre-cruise hotel accommodation. An eight-night Rowley Shoals Sailing Expedition will focus on diving and snorkelling, priced from AU$14,170 per person, twin-share.

Four departures in the Kimberley season will cater to the line’s Frenchspeaking clientele, while the remaining cruises for English speakers are expected to attract Australians and Americans. Book at au.ponant.com.

A neutral palette of off-white, taupe and grey extends from the cabins to the common areas, uniting the ship with a stylish sense of comfort. New furniture, flooring and lighting were installed indoors and out, with large windows letting in natural light.

In line with the company’s commitment to more responsible tourism, many eco-friendly initiatives were implemented. An innovative SCR filter cuts nitrous oxide emissions by up to 90 per cent, and the latest technology is used for water treatment and smart waste sorting at sea. Most visible is the ship’s ability to sail purely on wind power, when conditions allow, enhancing the feeling of freedom on the open seas.

In preparation for Le Ponant’s first season in the Kimberley next year, a fleet of two Zodiacs will be doubled to four to take passengers on rides around the rivers and gorges, to Montgomery Reef and the Horizontal Falls. Fishing equipment has also been upgraded, which the crew use to catch tuna (and soon, barramundi).

Ponant, the France-based operator of this three-masted flagship, is bringing all the luxury Down Under. Guests can look forward to a team of 34 crew, French chefs and butlers, dining al fresco for three meals a day, complimentary drinks, afternoon tea with pastries and crepes, and Swarovski binoculars and sunhats for use on board.

Best of all, the decreased capacity has boosted the guest-to-staff ratio from 2:1 to 1:1, with the same number of crewmembers retained. The obvious benefits are a higher level of personalised service, greater spaciousness and a heightened sense of exclusivity. It’s an

Rare privilege

From top: Le Ponant’s Salon Emeraude; a magical sunset dinner experience.

experience I can highly recommend in a hot and harsh environment like the Kimberley, where any comforts would be gratefully received.

For the first time, I’m staying in a cabin with a porthole on the lowest passenger deck. While other suites have balconies, my room is so close to the waterline I could almost touch the ocean. I fall asleep to the rhythmic lapping of waves against the hull and wake to a close-up view of the calm sea’s silky surface.

I discover I love this location, and not only for the lower price; it feels more nautical, more like sailing than cruising, and that’s the whole point of Le Ponant. CT

LE PONANT

Way to travel

From top: Zodiac excursions from the yacht; a flying boat will transport you to Le Ponant for Kimberley cruises.

Q&A with Sarina Bratton, Chairman Asia Pacific and Special Advisor to Executive at Ponant

A legend of the Australian cruise industry, Sarina Bratton has been instrumental in Ponant’s decision to deploy Le Ponant to the Kimberley for the 2023 dry season. Staffed with bilingual crew, the three-masted sailing ship will join Ponant’s Le Soleal and Laperouse in the region.

Why was Le Ponant your preferred choice of ship for the Kimberley?

The opportunity to introduce a vessel of such unique and high quality to this beautiful, pristine wilderness area is something we wish to share widely. There has been nothing like this in the Kimberley.

Will guests have different experiences than those offered by other luxury ships in the region?

Absolutely. With just 32 guests, the ability to take our guests to lesser known but equally enriching destinations along this coastline is exciting. Small gatherings ashore in ancient caves. Bespoke and unique pearling experiences with Paspaley. The whisper of the wind, a glass of Veuve Clicquot in hand as we sail along this ancient landscape.

What is the expected demographic of passengers on Ponant’s Kimberley cruises?

Ponant has the broadest global distribution model of any company in this sector. We have allocated

four departures in the season to specifically cater to our Frenchspeaking clientele. Our bilingual naturalists will be assigned to these dates. Le Ponant also has a strong following in North America. We anticipate Australians to be the largest source market.

In such a hot destination, how will people cool off?

In the Kimberley, with so few guests, we have the opportunity of visiting numerous freshwater swimming holes, just like the other Kimberley small boat operators [with 36 or fewer passengers].

When not in the Kimberley, sailing in Indonesia, Papua New Guinea and the Solomon Islands, our guests will dive into the warm waters off the stern marina platform.

Will the food and wine be French or Australian?

The quality will remain the same. Local sourcing of fresh food product will naturally change the menu design; however, the French gastronomic flair will always

remain. It’s a wonderful opportunity for us to showcase the magnificent range of fresh food in this country.

The introduction of Le Ponant brings the local fleet to three vessels. Is there more to come?

We have had two of our vessels operating the Kimberley for years – Le Soleal with 200 guests, and Laperouse (Explorer Class vessel) with 170 guests. In 2024, we will have two Explorer Class vessels operating the Kimberley, thus reducing our capacity. The addition of Le Ponant means our capacity in the destination will be around the same, but with a very distinct variation of product between our 32-guest Le Ponant to our 170-guest Explorer vessels. CT

FIRST IN CLASS

Excellence in all areas

Clockwise, from main picture: Race on the NCL speedway; the ship has a US$2 million sculpture collection; the Penrose Atrium lounge area.

True to her name, Norwegian Prima is a ship of firsts, writes Bernadette Chua.

She’s perhaps the boldest and brightest in a new class of Norwegian Cruise Line (NCL) vessels, with six more sister ships slated over the next five years.

On Norwegian Prima’s inaugural American sailing from New York, panel discussions among the ship’s management team and executives said she is the prototype for bigger and better things to come from NCL.

While many cruise lines might tout a range of technological bells and whistles which sound fantastic on paper, NCL has gone above and beyond in the delivery of Norwegian Prima

On the outside, her animated hull artwork makes her look like much of the line’s Breakaway-class ships. The imagery, which flows from the bow to the stern, depicts fluid shapes of blue, much like the undercurrent of the ocean.

But inside, she’s a much more grown-up ship than her predecessors, a nod to how NCL sees its market

for the coming few years. The ship is adorned with US$8 million worth of art, and a US$2 million sculpture garden, all carefully curated by Norwegian Cruise Line Holdings CEO Frank Del Rio.

And while she still boasts some cool and innovative rides, such as the signature Norwegian Cruise Line Speedway go-kart racetrack (albeit with some major improvements on those offered on other NCL vessels), the interactive Galaxy Pavilion as well a free-fall dry slide and waterslides, it seems she is hitting a different stride, attracting younger and more affluent guests.

Perhaps the most obvious indicator that NCL is angling the new Prima class towards a more upper-premium market, is in the design of the ship. The line’s owner demanded a hotel rather than a ship. And Norwegian Prima delivers. Cascading chandeliers, curved rich cerulean panel walls and deep brown chesterfield armchairs are just a taste of what passengers will experience thanks to interior designers and architects such as Piero Lissoni, Rockwell Group, SMC Design and Studio Dado.

“We use a lot of different architects to design the space, and they all have different visions, and then you try to do your best to make sure that when you’re leaving one room that an architect designed, and then go into the

NORWEGIAN PRIMA

next room that a different architect designed that there’s some continuity that doesn’t feel like you’re in two different places,” said Harry Sommer, president and CEO of Norwegian Cruise Line.

The most notable thing when you enter the ship is the three-level Penrose Atrium, featuring elements of the world’s most famous squares, from St Peter’s Square in the Vatican to St Mark’s Square in Venice. Aptly named after the Penrose triangle, the atrium is designed as a meeting place for conversation –whether that’s over coffee or a signature cocktail.

Le Bistro, one of the line’s signature specialty French dining options, has three stunning floor-to-ceiling chandeliers which are a focal point of the restaurant.

There are plenty of intimate public space areas, each thoughtfully decorated according to the mood. For instance, the Syd Pour Bar on Deck 7 has neon Budweiser lights, Jack Daniel’s barrel tops and pictures of The Ramones, Jim Morrison and The Doors; while at the Observatory Lounge the walls and shelves display gold-plated hands, bone-laid wooden boxes and art books.

NCL has long been at the forefront of specialty dining which can be seen in the previous class of ships. Some of the regular favourites such as Le Bistrot, the line’s French restaurant, Onda by Scarpetta, which serves traditional Italian fare, and Cagney’s Steakhouse return on Norwegian Prima and don’t fail to impress.

But perhaps the dining venue which has tongues wagging and mouths salivating is Palomar, a Mediterranean seafood restaurant where guests will find freshly shucked oysters with a mignonette of finger limes, whole saltbaked fish, grilled langoustines and

“NCL’s owner demanded a hotel rather than a ship. And Norwegian Prima delivers.”

lobster. Nama, the sushi and sashimi restaurant, is located opposite Hasuki, a teppanyaki-style eatery where the chefs put on a show of flying spatulas, eggs, and salt and pepper shakers before serving you an assortment of grilled meats, seafood, seaweed salad and fried rice.

The most impressive and innovative addition to Norwegian Prima, which hopefully will be on her sister ships, is the Indulge Food Hall. Guests step inside the busy area which is sectioned off into different cuisines and sit at countertops to order from menus on iPads. A variety of classic dishes

are available, including Spanish jamon and melon from Tapas; pad Thai and Singapore noodles from Nudls; and, my personal favourite, chicken tikka masala from Tamara which even has a tandoor oven.

There are 13 different stateroom categories with most featuring a lounge, large bathroom and ample storage space, as well as a desk. Decorated in varying hues of grey and blue, the rooms are spacious, but perhaps nothing to write home about. Norwegian Prima, though, has more solo cabins than any other ship in the NCL fleet, including a separate singles area.

In her prime Clockwise, from far left: The Haven Sundeck; a stateroom master bedroom; Prima glides past New York City; the Indulge outdoor lounge.

Concierge

Insider tip

Most people will head to the purser’s office to book onboard activities and specialty dining. But on Deck 6 and Deck 7, use the interactive TV screens near the Penrose Atrium to book your activities. Just swipe your card and you can secure a spot on the Speedway Track or a seat to watch the musicals.

What should I pack?

If you are sailing around the Caribbean or similar warmer climates, make sure you bring a few pairs of swimmers to make use of the plentiful day beds at Infinity Beach on Deck 8 where there are also two infinity pools. NCL has relaxed dress rules but it’s best to bring some light cocktail dresses, dress slacks and shirts, particularly if you’re heading to the specialty restaurants.

Favourite meal

The food was generally exceptional on Norwegian Prima – everything from the complimentary dining to the specialty restaurant. But do visit Indulge Food Hall for a meal at Tamara – the paneer, dahl and chicken tikka masala should not be missed.

Thrills and spills

From top: The tap dancing, beatboxing spectacular Noise Boys; slide race a friend on The Rush; the virtual world of the Galaxy Pavilion.

But the real achievement of Norwegian Prima is The Haven. The brainchild of Piero Lissoni accommodates just six per cent of the ship’s guests and looks more like an upscale boutique hotel with its clean lines, expansive Italian white sofas and rich velvet cerulean and bottle green armchairs.

Not only is there the exclusive Owner’s Suite in The Haven, but guests of the area have access to a private dining room and bar, as well as an outdoor area on the ship with a sumptuous infinity pool and dreamy cabanas.

“Here you get the best of both worlds,” said Sommer. He points out that “the more affluent get the concierge, key card access, a private restaurant, their own pool, but their

children and grandchildren” can visit the waterslides and the racetrack.

There are more games and activities on board than ever, including the addition of two dry slides where screams can be heard all down the 10 decks as passengers drop.

The Galaxy Pavilion is where you’ll find an assortment of VR games – you can practise your golf swing, drive F1 cars or shoot zombies. There are also outdoor attractions including mini golf, foosball, pickleball and more.

NCL’s pièce de résistance, the Speedway go-kart track, has been developed far from the original concept. The racetrack now spans three storeys and drivers can opt for single or double karts, depending if they want to race alone or bring the kids with them. The track is designed for more speed and the chance to overtake. And guests can now shoot the top of the go-karts with laser guns to give their friends and family an extra turbo boost of speed. For those in the need for speed, the line has added a single-rider experience called “You and the Track”, where you can zip around with no one else on the course.

By evening, the bars come alive with live music and comedy acts, and the highlight in the Prima Theater is Summer: The Donna Summer Musical. It’s a masterful achievement with NCL’s production team remaking the beloved Broadway show. Once the singing and dancing are over, the seats in the Prima Theater retract, revealing a dance floor where guests can disco the night away.

On your way to the Prima Theater, visit the Metropolitan Bar which uses food scraps to make the liqueurs and syrups that go into the specialty cocktails. For instance, the Sustainable Spritz, which looks and tastes like an Aperol spritz, is made with rosemary-stem-infused vodka, surplus champagne, soda water and half an orange wheel.

If all of this is a taste to come of what we can expect from NCL, sign me up for the next five ships. CT

NORWEGIAN PRIMA

Ocean

ISLAND HOPPING IN THE ADRIATIC

Princess Eleganza gives Louise Goldsbury the royal treatment – experiencing small ship sailing and evenings in port.

PRINCESS ELEGANZA IN CROATIA

More than a thousand islands are sprinkled like calamari crumbs along the Croatian coast. Whatever the selection of ports on an Adriatic cruise, the variety flows from medieval settlements to fishing villages surrounded by beaches, vineyards, mountains and waterfalls.

Our seven-night voyage starts in Opatija, once the most fashionable seaside resort amongst the elite of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in the 19th century. Two hours’ drive from Zagreb, the glamorous town has retained many of its grand hotels, villas, pavilions, parks and promenades.

At the end of a century-old waterfront walkway, Travelmarvel’s 36-passenger Princess Eleganza is docked opposite the yacht club. The 47-metre vessel blends into the scene, so it feels like boarding a private boat. The gangway is barely needed; I could step aboard without it.

Cruise director Dave Godfrey appears with a big smile and shows me to my room on the upper deck. After a brief introduction, I ask if he needs my passport, credit card or ticket to check me in.

“You’re here. That’s it. You’re checked in,” he says.

The other crewmembers are two chefs, a waiter, a bartender and a housekeeper, led by Captain Zeljko and two nautical crew. When the rest of the guests arrive, it doesn’t take long for people to mingle in this casual atmosphere, meeting at the bar and sharing tables at dinner.

Our contingent comprises Australian and British couples, aged in their 40s to 60s, and one solo traveller (me). The beer and wine are local (and included in the fare) and the food is traditional Croatian, with a selection of fresh seafood, grilled meat, salads and desserts.

“Natalija cooks for us like she cooks for her family,” says Godfrey.

Satiated after a three-course meal followed by a moonlit nightcap, everyone heads to bed for a peaceful sleep. Unlike other cruise ships, Princess Eleganza rests overnight, too. Instead of moving from dusk to dawn, she likes to relax in the evenings, enjoying the sunset and saving her energy for tomorrow. Better to sail during the day, when the sun is high and blazing, and spend time on land in the milder afternoon. This is the routine we follow for the week, which makes sense for islandhopping in the Croatian summer.

After breakfast, the ship is bound for our first port of call, but the captain has a surprise. He drops anchor halfway, somewhere between Krk and Cres, where he knows a spot for a swimming stop. No need to find a beach – passengers dive off the aft marina platform into the calm, turquoise water. Giggling like children, we have the ocean to ourselves, and it feels like the middle of nowhere.

Sights to sea

Clockwise, from above: MV Princess Eleganza cruising Croatia’s coast; admiring the view from Dubrovnik; the small harbour in Vis town.

Arriving at Rab, we are nicely refreshed for a short walk through its Old Town to a hilltop viewpoint, where the orange-roofed skyline of church bell towers glows against the big, blue harbour. The ruined Romanesque basilica of St John the Evangelist’s Church is believed to date back to the 5th or 6th centuries, while St Andrew’s Monastery has been in use since the 11th century.

With no curfew, there’s free time to explore further, go shopping and dine ashore at a tavern serving local cuisine (called a konoba). Rab’s specialties include sušeni štokalj (sliced octopus served with eggs, onions and olive oil), fish stew and rapska torta (a spiral cake made from almonds, lemon and orange zest, and sour cherry liqueur). Before wandering back to the ship, I sneak in a swim at a nearby beach where the locals cool down before dinner later at night.

The next morning we sail past Pag Island, close enough to admire its lunar landscape, on our way to Zadar. In this fascinating city, a guide takes us on a stroll through the World Heritage-listed gates to discover a large complex of ruins: the remains of a Roman temple, the round, 9th-century Church of St Donatus, the 12thcentury St Anastasia’s Cathedral, an archbishop’s palace, Zmajevic seminary, a Benedictine convent and the orthodox church of St Elias.

On Zadar’s seafront are two modern attractions: the Greeting to the Sun, a solar-powered installation that

Book it

Travelmarvel’s Adriatic Coastal Cruise is offered weekly from April to September. On the seven-night itinerary from Zagreb to Dubrovnik, passengers are transferred by coach to Opatija to board the Princess Eleganza before sailing to Rab, Zadar, Sibenik, Split, Vis, Korcula and Badija. In the reverse direction, passengers board in Dubrovnik.

Fares start at AU$2,995 per person, twin share, including shore excursions, onboard meals, and local wine, beer and soft drinks served during lunch and dinner.

Upgrade to a Panoramic Window cabin on the Promenade Deck (only two available) for an additional AU$1,295 per person.

From ship to shore

Clockwise, from top: Zadar skyline; exploring Split; dining on the deck of Princess Eleganza; cabin on board Princess Eleganza.

colourfully lights up a circular floor, and the Sea Organ, which plays eerie sounds when the wind blows through its pipes. After dinner on board, a few guests return to this area to witness the unique sound-and-light show as the sun sets over the Adriatic.

Experiencing each island after dark is a treat of this itinerary that cannot be overstated. In other ports, there’s live music, markets, festivals and traditional dancing. Bars can be found on tops of castles, in caves, on cliffs, embedded in limestone fortifications or spilling onto sandy beaches. Free from the pressure to get back on board in time, you don’t have to choose between wine-tasting or waiting for a cocktail.

In Korcula, I leave the group and take a twilight dip in a tiny cove beneath the mountains. At 7.30pm, I attend a candlelit rosary service at St Mark’s Cathedral, which visitors can quietly observe from the back, and then I pop into a shipbuilding exhibition near the wharf, open until 9pm.

In Split, at Diocletian’s Palace, built for the Roman Emperor, a small crowd gathers around the 1,700-year-old square where a band is performing. We had toured the site during the day when it was full of tourists taking photos, but in the evening it turns into a dancefloor under the stars. Lvxor Café overlooks the scene, serving drinks to people sitting on these ancient steps.

Sunrises await for the earlybirds, too, as we don’t have to wait for the ship to dock or for permission to disembark. After our overnight stay in Sibenik, I let myself out the portside door at 6am for a jog along the empty streets. A quick shower in my cabin and I’m downstairs for an omelette before our shore excursion.

PRINCESS ELEGANZA IN CROATIA

The half-day tour to Krka National Park reveals a river flowing into seven majestic waterfalls and spectacular, emerald lakes. Stretching 142 square kilometres, the park is too big to cover, but we learn about the history and wildlife (800 plant species, 200 bird species and 18 species of bat). This culturally significant area is also home to remnants of a Roman aqueduct, watermills, a Franciscan church and two monasteries.

Unknown places are unexpected delights. Vis, a military base of the former Yugoslavia, was closed to tourism until 1989. Fastforward to 2018 when it was used as a filming location for Mamma Mia 2 because of its resemblance to a sleepy Greek Island. Most visitors come for the laidback vibe, to live like a local, without the tourist hordes of other European destinations.

A drive over the mountain leads to the western side of this volcanic, isolated isle. The fishing village of Komiza is a sight to behold from above. A cluster of stone houses and narrow alleys flow like streams into the sea, where the small harbour is full of white boats and the beaches are full of white pebbles.

Alfresco cafés are buzzing with a mix of happy residents and travellers sipping 10 kuna (AU$2) coffees. Lunch menus list baked octopus, stuffed squid, black risotto and pogača, a pie made of dough, salted sardines, tomato, onion and herbs. I could have stayed here for a week.

The final stop, Dubrovnik, is the biggest and busiest destination of the trip. In a way, it feels like too much effort after six days of unwinding. Some people, who have been

here before, skip the 90-minute tour, preferring to explore independently or stay on the ship. No activities are compulsory if you’re not in the mood.

Our voyage ends with a farewell party, entertained by a local band, that rapidly escalates to everyone singing along in the dining room or dancing on the outside deck before dessert is even served.

“This hasn’t happened before,” remarks Godfrey. “Is it because this is our first cruise with more Australians than Brits?”

Bonding on our almost-private yacht, we have come to enjoy the shared experience of the Croatian boating lifestyle. The top-deck lounges have been filled with sunbathers and book-readers.

On three joyful occasions, we have jumped off the ship for ocean swims. We have loved the passing sights of rocky islands, fortresses guarding harbour entrances, and jumbles of waterfront buildings topped with terracotta tiles.

Throughout the journey, Princess Eleganza has treated each guest like royalty. Launched in 2015, the ship was extensively refurbished this year, with upgrades to all rooms and public spaces. The highest category of accommodation, the Panoramic Window cabin, is a stand-out for its more spacious layout and views across the bow. For the ultimate view, the open bridge policy means anyone can visit the captain to watch the navigation in progress, smoothly sailing around this sparkling, sun-drenched archipelago. Travelmarvel.com.au CT

“BONDING ON OUR ALMOSTPRIVATE YACHT, WE HAVE COME TO ENJOY THE CROATIAN BOATING LIFESTYLE.”

DESTINATION NORTH

HURTIGRUTEN NORWEGIAN COASTAL EXPRESS

Travel to the land of fjords and northern lights in style on a classic voyage with Norway experts Hurtigruten.

High Arctic

From top: Under the northern lights in North Cape, Norway; puffin sighting on the archipelago of Svalbard.

It’s been 130 years since Hurtigruten started its Norwegian Coastal Express routes, which sail along one of the longest and most pristine coastlines in the world.

To celebrate this milestone, Hurtigruten is offering special North Cape Express land-andsea voyages between June and September next year. The journey can begin in Norway’s capital, Oslo, from where you sail to Lindesnes, home to the country’s first lighthouse which sits on the southernmost tip. Then the cruise will set a course to Norway’s most northerly point, the snow-capped North Cape, visiting coastal towns and villages along the way.

There’s an additional bonus: you will cruise on board the MS Trollfjord, which in the first half of 2023 will be refurbished with a new look that exemplifies Hurtigruten’s classic style, which is both timeless and elegantly chic.

The top of the ship will be Deck 9, an outdoor space with a twostorey observation lounge and unbelievable views from the bow. The top deck will boast the line’s first “show kitchen” where talented chefs will host a series of cooking demonstrations that display their culinary skills. They will also prepare delicacies which are then matched with a selection of local beverages. In addition, Deck 9 will house the panoramic sauna and a bigger fitness room with floor-to-ceiling windows that allow guests to take advantage of the gorgeous views while they work out.

On the deck below, there will be a chic bar serving Norwegian aquavit. There is a library and the Esplin Johnston lounge where you can have afternoon tea. It connects to the a la carte dining room. All cabins on Deck 8 will have wide, long windows which allow for natural light and some of the best views from the ship.

You have a wide choice of voyages that explore the Norwegian coast, a region that Hurtigruten has been sailing since 1893. Over the years, the line has sustained several remote coastal communities up and down the length of Norway and locals have grown to love Hurtigruten ships as they have relied on them for travel, post and cargo for generations.

Voyages on offer include the 16-day North Cape Express voyage between Oslo, Honningsvag and Bergen on board MS Trollfjord Departures from Oslo are scheduled for dates between October 2023 and March 2024, and sail to 34 ports and past 1,000 fjords and 1,000 mountains.

The cruise kicks off in Oslo in the south and travels to North Cape in Arctic Norway, at the top of Europe. Along the way, you will learn about the local communities and join in some exciting excursions. This is history in the making as the line is, for the first time, sailing out of Oslo. Highlights of the city include the Radhuset town hall, the Royal Palace and Oslo Cathedral. One of the first stops is Kristiansand, on the southern tip of Norway and the country’s fifth-largest city with a population of only 112,000.

By day 10, you will arrive in Honningsvag, the northernmost city. Here, winters are long and snowfall is high. It’s a delight to feel the snow crunching under your snowshoes as you hike across the plains. You can try your hand at ice fishing, taste local king crab and visit Honningsvag Church, which is the oldest in the region dating back to 1885. You can also go dog sledding to experience flying through the local countryside in search of the northern lights.

The beautiful aurora borealis is Mother Nature’s ultimate light show and no trip to the Arctic Circle is complete without at least one sighting. And if the northern lights do not appear on your journey, Hurtigruten will give you another 6- or 7-day Classic Voyage free of charge.

You can now relive the joys of an icon on the Svalbard Express voyage and experience the pristine Arctic wilderness that has not changed since Hurtigruten first sailed the summer voyage to Svalbard in 1968. This nostalgic trip will take you back to the northernmost reaches of the world – to Svalbard.

Fire and ice From top: cruising on MS Trollfjord; Norway’s indigenous Sami people; sauna aboard MS Trollfjord

The Svalbard Express showcases the best of then and now with remote hamlets and pristine Arctic wilderness prowled by polar bears and sea eagles. The 16-day BergenLongyearbyen-Bergen Svalbard Express full voyage is a summertime journey along the Norwegian coast up to the Svalbard archipelago. At the height of the season, you will bask in 24 hours of daylight from the Midnight Sun.

At Longyearbyen, which is nestled on the banks of the sweeping large fjord, you can go dog sledding without snow. And at Kongsfjord, one of the largest fjords in the area, you will be able to spot walrus basking on the shores and migrating birds such as puffins, pink-footed geese and guillemots. White arctic foxes, Svalbard reindeer and white beluga whales can also be seen – if you are lucky. CT For more information, visit Hurtigruten.com.au.

“Experience the pristine Arctic wilderness that has not changed since Hurtigruten first sailed the summer voyage to Svalbard in 1968.”

Rivers

66 What’s new in river cruising | 76 Europe with Tauck’s riverboats

Maybe it’s the closeness to shore. Perhaps it’s the small ships. But river cruise lines are reporting a strong resurgence in demand from travellers who, before the pandemic, wouldn’t have considered a river cruise.

A survey by luxury line Uniworld shows more than a third of those who had taken an ocean cruise before the pandemic have now decided to take their first river cruise this season. And more than 40 per cent say they prefer fewer guests on board.

Uniworld president and chief executive Ellen Bettridge told Travel Weekly: “There are 30 million people ocean cruising. I estimate there are just over one million river cruising. That’s nothing – and this makes me very optimistic about the future. I believe this trend from ocean to river is going to continue.”

River cruise lines are responding with new offerings. Here are some of the best…

1/ New ships

One of the biggest new developments in the world of river cruising has been the beginning of sailing for Viking Mississippi, marking Viking’s first move into North American river cruising. The 386-passenger ship is sailing from St Paul, Minnesota to St Louis, with stops in four states along the way. While many ships in the region have a traditional “steamboat” design, Viking Mississippi sticks to the modern and sleek design of other Viking ships.

This has been only one of many moves for Viking, with the cruise line introducing eight new river ships earlier this year: four built specifically to sail the Seine River and a further four to carry out a range of other itineraries across the Rhine, Main and Danube rivers.

Tauck has also recently introduced its new river vessel MS Andorinha to the world, and it is set to sail 12-day itineraries in Portugal. It was designed specifically for the Douro River, accommodating 84 guests across 42 cabins and spoiling them with an infinity pool, day beds on the sun deck and a popup restaurant that rises out of the stern to offer steakhouse-style meals.

In 2024, Avalon Waterways will also join the fun on the Douro when Avalon Alegria takes to the waters on eight-day round trips out of Porto.

AmaWaterways has its eyes on boosting its presence in the Nile, with AmaDahlia beginning there last year and the new AmaLilia set to join her in 2024 on a series of 11-night cruise and land tours across Egypt.

2/ Mekong is open and the Nile is red hot While European river cruising is a natural choice, other destinations are also shaping up for red-hot seasons. Cruising is back in a big way on the Mekong, with Viking, AmaWaterways and Emerald Cruises all returning.

The BIG SWITCH

From river to land

From left to right: Viking launches in North America with Viking Mississippi; taking in the sights in Vienna with Uniworld; hitting two wheels on Avalon’s Paris to Normandy cruise.

River cruise lines are the new favourite of ocean passengers eager to make a switch to small ships nearer to land, reports Peter Lynch.

Viking Saigon – custom-built for the region – has recently started sailing on the Mekong River and has been offering regular 15-day itineraries from now until March 2023, before the 2023/2024 season starts in July 2023.

AmaWaterways returned to the Mekong in October and is offering complimentary land packages on selected sailings of its Charms of the Mekong itinerary for a pre- or post-cruise stay, giving guests the chance to enjoy some extra time in Bangkok before or after their cruise.

Emerald Cruises has announced its first ventures into the Mekong, beginning in 2023 with itineraries ranging from eight-day tours to 19-day journeys that include cruising on traditional junk boats before making it to the Mekong.

India is also an intriguing destination for a river cruise, with Avalon offering five different itineraries in the region ranging from one to three weeks. For something locally based, Antara Luxury River Cruises also offers a range of itineraries, generally from four to eight nights, but stretching all the way up to a 53-day Grand Cruise from Prayagraj to Shivsagar across 27 different rivers.

“While European river cruising is a natural choice... cruising is back in a big way on the Mekong.”

The Nile is proving just as popular, with Abercrombie & Kent, AmaWaterways and Viking all reporting sky-high demand. Viking has recently launched a purpose-built ship for the Nile (see our review of Viking Osiris on page 70), with two more river ships on the way.

3/ New longer cruises – Uniworld’s joined-up cruises

The more popular river cruising becomes, the longer cruisers are looking to stay on board. While ocean cruising is more associated with long voyages than river cruising, river cruising is definitely playing catch-up with a number of lines announcing longer cruises.

Uniworld recently announced its 46-night Rivers of the World cruise, set to sail in May 2023. However, the cruise itself does not stay on one river and one ship, rather requiring five different ships, a few nights in hotels and an airplane transfer.

You’ll get to see nine different countries, with Egypt, the Mediterranean, the Alps, Central Europe and Northern France all waiting for you.

However, if you want a long river cruise without ever having to change rooms, you could try AmaWaterways’ 49-night cruise between Amsterdam and Girgiu, Romania. You’ll get to sail on seven different interconnected rivers: the Scheldt, Mass, Waal, Rhine, Moselle, Main and Danube.

There are both spring and summer 2024 sailings on offer for a truly varied and unique river cruise experience.

Other river brands are also in the process of lengthening their offerings: for example American Cruise Lines’ new vessel American Symphony is currently sailing the line’s longest-ever cruise itinerary, as it completes 22 days along the Mississippi from New Orleans to St Paul.

Sights to behold

From top: On tour with Antara Luxury River Cruises to Katra Mosque in West Bengal, India; new ships will be sailing the Douro in Portugal.

4/ Cruise and rail

A considerable number of cruisers are looking to combine their river cruises with rail journeys. Uniworld is taking full advantage of this by partnering with Golden Eagle Luxury Trains to add a new 13-day Castles of Transylvania & the Enchanting Danube package to its repertoire. The journey combines a seven-day river cruise from Germany with a fournight train trip and overnight stay in Budapest.

Uniworld is also taking the cruise-and-rail combo to India, teaming up with the Maharajas’ Express to create a new 16-day journey through the subcontinent. You’ll spend two nights in hotels in New Delhi and Mumbai with the rest of your time filled with a seven-night luxury private train journey and sevennight river cruise on the Ganges.

You’ll see the Taj Mahal, Amber Fort and even Ranthambore National Park, with hopes of spotting an elusive Bengal tiger.

For a bit of American flavour, American Queen Voyages has partnered with Rocky Mountaineer to offer pre- and postcruise luxurious rail journeys on select sailings.

5/ Sustainability

Without beautiful waterways and sweeping landscapes, river cruising wouldn’t be possible. Luckily most river cruise lines are just as invested in sustaining the environment as they are in exploring.

Avalon Waterways was recently given Europe’s Green Award, in recognition of its high environmental standards, and has announced its intention to launch a fully electric river cruise boat by 2027.

River cruise line A-ROSA has also seen acclaim for its new ship Sena. The ship took out the German Award for Sustainability Projects 2022, thanks to a hybrid propulsion system, exhaust gas purification filters and her ability to turn exhaust gas into electricity.

6/ Mystery cruises

Following its sold-out success last season, Uniworld is launching more mystery-cruise itineraries in Europe. These mystery cruises will give you some vague information about destinations, but every other detail of the journey will be a total surprise, allowing you to simply put your trust in the travel experts and enjoy the spontaneity along the way.

The line has announced two new 10-day mystery cruises, one leaving on 18 June 2023 as a roundtrip from Amsterdam and another leaving July 7 from Lyon to Nice – and those are the only details customers will receive.

Prices for the June mystery cruise start from AU$10,699 and the July cruise starts from AU$11,199. CT

Ship: MS Andorinha

Departure: March-November

Ship: MS Joy/Savor

Departure: April-October

Our journey on the Nile begins on land, along the banks of this fabled river. Checked into the Fairmont in Cairo, 80 travellers can hardly wait to see the legendary pyramids come into view. We first spot them on the drive to Giza, appearing in the distance behind roadside buildings. Dropped off within a two-minute walk of these huge pharaohs’ tombs, the proximity to antiquity feels surreal. Like giddy children, we climb upon the lowest limestone blocks, ride camels and pose for silly photos.

The Great Pyramid, built 4,500 years ago, is the oldest of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World and the only one to remain largely intact. After exploring around its base with our Viking guide and Egyptologist, Walid El Batouty, we move on to the Great Sphinx, less than one kilometre away. It’s an unforgettable moment to finally be here.

Believed to be about 70 years older than both these monuments is the Step Pyramid of Djoser at Saqqara. This astonishing necropolis is the current site of an archaeological mission that continues to uncover incredibly rare relics. During the week of our visit, in October, a complete sarcophagus is discovered in its original tomb, dedicated to Ptah-em-wia, the treasurer of King Ramses II, who ruled Egypt from 1279 BC.

Many other significant finds, from burial chambers to an entire city hidden beneath the sand, have been made across

Setting the pace

Viking Osiris on the Nile passing a felucca (above); the Viking tour begins on land, to see the Pyramids of Giza (right).

Louise Goldsbury hops aboard Viking Osiris, the newest ship on the Nile – the year’s hottest river cruise destination.

PYRAMID SCHEMES

VIKING CRUISES

the country in recent years. To think that mysterious artefacts may be hidden under your feet, waiting to be unearthed, adds a sense of excitement to the experience. Walid fills our spongey minds with stories, facts and revelations about the history and latest discoveries in Egypt. Before too long, we are learning to decipher hieroglyphs, recognise gods and piece together their complicated sagas.

In Cairo’s Islamic district, we browse the oldest open-air market in the Middle East, Khan El Khalili bazaar, for our introduction to the local sport of haggling. Cotton shirts, scarves, jewellery and perfume can be bought for bargain prices. Although the process can seem daunting, it becomes fun with good-humoured vendors and the right frame of mind. Those averse to shopping can rest at a café for a cup of coffee or hibiscus tea.

+ Temples, tombs and towns From Cairo, we fly to Luxor on a chartered flight to commence our cruise on Viking Osiris. The boarding location is in prime position, next to Karnak Temple, the world’s largest religious complex. The towering columns have been recently cleaned, revealing the original colours of ancient etchings. Dating back to about 2055 BC, it’s one of many riverside attractions to be explored over the next week. In the evening, we visit Luxor Temple, lit up in the dark, while evocative chanting from a mosque creates an unforgettable atmosphere.

In the morning, we awake at 4am for a hot-air balloon ride – an enchanting excursion not to be missed. As the sun rises over the desert, the sky and Theban hills start to glow, while the pilot narrates the sights below, from the temple complexes to the Valley of the Kings and Valley of the Queens. Floating over a patchwork of crops and roof-less houses, the balloon lands near a field of sugar cane.

A memorable day is spent exploring the burial sites of the pharaohs and their wives, where restoration works have transformed the interiors. One of the biggest changes is in the tomb of Tutankhamun, where a nine-year project has repaired damage and removed layers of dust, refreshing the wall paintings depicting the young king’s life and death. Previously hidden from view, the mummy is now displayed in a glass case, with his face and feet visible. Best preserved in the

is

sprawling tomb of Ramses

staircases and corridors covered in

and scenes of harpists playing. The most impressive is the 3,200-year-old tomb of Nefertari, in the Valley of the Queens, where

Nile cruising

Clockwise, from above: The 13thcentury BC Abu Simbel complex; pool area on Viking Osiris; a spice market; watching hot-air balloons from the ship’s Sun Deck.

Valley of the Kings

the

III, with

hieroglyphs

“Passengers take a day trip to Abu Simbel, the beautiful temples that were epically relocated from a flood-prone area of the Nile.”

Book it

Viking’s 11-night Pharaohs & Pyramids package includes four nights of five-star hotel accommodation in Cairo and seven nights of cruising the Nile. Departures are year-round, except in June and July. High season, when the heat is less intense, runs from November to April. Priced from AU$7,295 per person twin-share, fares include daily shore excursions, WiFi, onboard gratuities, meals and wine, beer and soft drinks served with lunch and dinner. Optional tours, such as hot-air ballooning, Abu Simbel day trip or a Temples of Philae sound and light show, incur additional charges.

multiple rooms are decorated in art of incredibly vivid colour. As the ship sails south to Aswan, we arrive at a Nubian village of farmers, fishermen and families carrying on the traditions of their Egyptian and African ancestors. Baby crocodiles are kept for pets in a local home that we are invited to visit. The women of the guesthouse offer tea, sweets and henna hand tattoos. In the markets, pashminas woven by resident artisans are displayed behind baskets of spices. We briefly visit a school to drop off donations and listen to the students sing. Other passengers take a day trip to Abu Simbel, the beautiful temples that were epically relocated from a flood-prone location on the Nile.

The final stop is Edfu, where passengers ride by horse and carriage to the relatively young temple, completed in 57BC during Egypt’s period under Greek rule. Regarded as the most complete temple in the country, it’s been remarkably preserved because it was buried for centuries by desert sand and layers of silt deposited by the Nile.

+ Viking Osiris

The 82-passenger Viking Osiris is the newest and most luxurious modern vessel on the river. The décor is Viking’s trademark Scandinavian style, with natural light pouring in through panoramic windows and skylights. The loveliest spaces include the library, the sun deck at sunset, and the infinity pool. Located at the back, the narrow pool is a relaxing spot to cool off with ever-changing views of riverside farms, towns, mountains, mosques, fishermen in rowboats, and children waving from the grassy shore, lined with palm trees.

Most cabins have balconies, where you can also watch the passing sights of the Nile. One deck of accommodation is devoted to the largest suites, each with a lounge room, queen bed in a separate bedroom, walk-in wardrobe and bathroom. At the front of the ship are two suites with wraparound glass walls.

Dining is offered in an air-conditioned main restaurant and the more casual Aquavit Terrace, with some alfresco tables near the pool. Drinks are included during lunch and dinner, which is a great way to sample some local wine and beer. The most enjoyable evening is Egyptian Night, when passengers dress in traditional clothing purchased from the markets. The feast starts with lentil soup, salads and platters of baba ganoush, spicy tahini and humous dips, followed by mains such as bouri mashwi (mullet), kofte (meatballs) and sisi tawook (lamb chops), and a delicious date tart for dessert. A cooking class teaches passengers how to make felafel, made from fava beans rather than chickpeas.

The friendly crew are largely Egyptian, which enhances the experience, along with Egyptologists and historians who serve as tour guides in each port. Lectures are also presented in the lounge to complete your education.

Viking currently has two other ships sailing the Nile: the MS Antares and Viking Ra. Due to strong demand, the cruise line is doubling its fleet over the next three years. Viking Aton is scheduled to debut in 2023, while Viking Hathor and Viking Sobek are under construction and set to launch in 2024 and 2025.

The Norwegian company has offered cruises in Egypt since 2004 but this is the first vessel owned and operated by Viking, allowing a consistent experience up to the cruise line’s European standards. As it was built in Cairo, Viking Osiris is permitted to berth directly alongside the busy shores of Luxor, so guests do not have to walk through several boats tied up next to each other to disembark.

On our last day of sailing, we pass the SS Sudan, a century-old paddlesteamer that inspired Agatha Christie to write Death on the Nile after her cruise in 1933. Over the next hour, I count another 10 ships, plus several

in luxury and comfort

Clockwise, from above left: A Viking Osiris Verandah Suite; fascinating, bustling Cairo; Aswan on the Nile; cocktail hour on board.

traditional felucca sailboats and two-masted dahabiya yachts, which are towed by tugboats when the wind is too calm. To be surrounded by so much local culture and nautical history, while aboard the newest vessel on this famous river, is as captivating as any pyramid, tomb or temple.

After disembarking, we fly back to Cairo for our final night in the InterContinental Hotel and an optional tour of the National Museum of Egyptian Civilisation. This exceptional collection of artefacts covers the country’s key phases, from the predynastic period to Greco-Roman, Coptic, Islamic and contemporary times, but the highlight is the Royal Mummies Hall. Inside this dark and silent space are 18 kings and two queens, including some whose tombs we visited during the week.

Moved from the original Egyptian Museum last year, each former pharaoh has its own room in a new interactive display to show visitors what lies beneath the wrappings, shedding light on the rituals and beliefs surrounding mummification. The fascinating display makes up for missing out on the Grand Egyptian Museum, which was due to open in 2020 but has been delayed. All the more reason to book this bucket-list trip in 2023.

CT

“So much local culture and nautical history, while aboard the newest vessel on the Nile, is as captivating as any pyramid.”

Egypt

TAUCK

Life changing

Tauck offers more than other tour groups and cruise lines by abiding by a simple promise to go beyond the ordinary, writes Teresa Ooi.

On tour

Clockwise, from below: A Tauck riverboat navigating the Danube river in Austria’s Wachau Valley; Prague’s Strahov Monastery; Frankfurt’s stunning Romerberg; Tauck cycling excursion in Austria.

few river cruise lines can lay claim to changing people’s lives through travel – but American small river ship and tour company Tauck does just that.

When you board a Tauck riverboat, there will be fewer guests, larger cabins, bigger restaurants and bigger and brighter public spaces. But what’s even more important is that every Tauck excursion has a unique feature that has been specially designed to create memories for guests to cherish for the rest of their lives. For instance, Tauck’s excursions take guests to visit the Louvre, not during the day but after-hours; to dine at Amsterdam’s Rijks after an in-depth visit to the Rijksmuseum; and to hop on an e-bike to ride along the Schlogener Schlinge in Austria’s upper Danube valley.

Many Australians love the Tauck brand as they are in the company of an international community of like-minded travellers. And because all inclusive means just that. The price is the price, as Tauck is fond of saying. In particular, Aussies like the wide range of activities on and off the ship, according to cruise director Nick Coward, who hails from New South Wales.

He adds that Tauck’s itineraries on the Danube and Douro are the line’s biggest sellers. Why? “You simply can’t beat being on a Tauck riverboat in the middle of the valleys and gorges to see spectacular scenery,” says Coward. While the availability of cabins is limited on the Douro next year, bookings for river voyages in 2024 will open soon. And these tours are typically Tauck.

Tauck has a 12-day itinerary on Douro’s “river of gold”, for instance, that involves six nights on the Douro and two-night stays in premier hotels in Madrid and Lisbon. The tour includes a private dinner at the National Palace of Queluz near Lisbon and a special culinary experience at DOC restaurant in Folgosa to savour cuisine by Portuguese celebrity chef Rui Paula.

Tauck talk

A few facts about a company that often flies under the radar but has an outstanding record:

• Tauck operates goldstandard escorted tours on six continents.

• It pioneered river cruising 30 years ago next year.

• The company has appeared on the Travel + Leisure World’s Best list for 20 years.

• More than half of Tauck’s clients are repeat guests.

• The business has been family-owned for 95 years

– the current chairman is Arthur Tauck Jr. The company was founded by Arthur Tauck Sr in 1925.

Over on the Seine, Tauck has a 12-day cruise itinerary which includes a twonight stay at The Savoy in London, a visit to the Chateau de Versailles or a walking tour of Montmartre. You’ll also be treated to a presentation by Celia Sandys, granddaughter of Sir Winston Churchill, a private dinner with music at Chateau de Taillis and an after-hours visit to the Churchill War Rooms in London.

Tauck has teamed up with Silversea to breathe new life into its US small-ship itineraries offering new sailings between New York City and Quebec City in September and October next year aboard the 388-passenger Silver Shadow.

As Tauck CEO Dan Mahar says: “We’ve seen tremendous interest in our Alaska and Great Lakes programs – we essentially sold out across the board this

year – and we’re excited to expand our domestic cruise offerings for next year with this wonderful new journey. Silversea does an incredible job and we are thrilled to partner with them on this journey –yet we like to think we’re bringing something extra to the table for our Tauck guests.”

The 13-day Shores of Eastern Canada and New England sailings include an amazing overnight stay at the New York Marriott Marquis in Times Square. When the cruise stops at the final destination in Quebec, there will be an exploration of Île d’Orléans and Montmorency Falls, plus an overnight stay at Chateau Frontenac to end the cruise in style.

For more than 90 years, the Tauck family has had a passion for sailing aboard small ships at sea, riverboats along inland waterways and at home on the rivers and lakes of Connecticut and New York. In 1992, the company expanded to European river cruising. This ‘beyond-the-ordinary’ experience and the mantra of ‘changing people’s lives through travel’ has kept Tauck ahead of its time and ahead of the pack. Designed in a contemporary style and with spaciousness in mind, Tauck’s nine custom riverboats offer guests an immersive and authentic travel experience as they cruise along stunning waterways and great rivers. Tauck has become known for river cruising at its best. CT

ADRIATIC COASTAL CRUISE

Dubrovnik to Zagreb

• Spend 8 magical days aboard the refurbished MV Princess Eleganza exploring Croatia's Adriatic Coast with a maximum of just 35 other guests.

• Get to the heart of Croatia with visits to 11 towns, villages and cities as you meander between forested islands, beaches and crystal-clear bays.

• Set out on a guided tour of the medieval Old Town of Dubrovnik, the unrivalled Pearl of the Adriatic, beginning at the imposing Pile Gate.

• Discover the largely untouched island of Vis and Krka National Park’s imposing waterfalls.

• Your cruise includes onboard water stations, plus tea and coffee, soft drink, beer and local wine during lunch and dinner.

Reverse itinerary This tour is also available in reverse. Begin in Dubrovnik and finish your holiday in Opatija.

Cruise Awards

GOING BEYOND

Presenting the winners of this year’s awards – as chosen by our readers.

It’s been a truly remarkable comeback for the cruise industry this year – and the return of our Readers’ Choice Awards has seen thousands of you vote in more categories than we’ve ever had before.

And what you told us has led to a bit of a changing of the guard, with lines such as Viking, Ponant and Regent Seven Seas in the ascendancy.

Perhaps it’s no surprise. You told us in our sentiment surveys that small ships, space, service and value were the essentials you’d be seeking once cruising returned.

Big ships are still very much loved with Princess, Norwegian Cruise Line and Royal Caribbean taking out the top awards for best premium line, best contemporary line and best for activities.

But the trend, at least this year, is clear. Small is beautiful.

Innovation was also rewarded – with Celebrity Beyond winning our inaugural Most Innovative Ship award.

Bernadette Chua, Editor

Enjoying the river view from the terrace on Scenic Spirit

Best for Innovation CELEBRITY BEYOND

* Winner

• She’s been hailed as a game changer in the cruise industry, and Celebrity Beyond has taken out the top spot as the most innovative new ship out there. The ship is the third from Celebrity Cruises’ Edge Class and you’ll find the futuristic Magic Carpet platform, two-storey Edge Villas and private plunge pools like on her sister ships.

But Celebrity Beyond is 20 metres longer and has an extra deck, which means there’s an even wider choice of dining and entertainment venues. There are new accomodation options, such as Aqua Sky Suites, which include access to the spa’s SEA Thermal Suite, which has heated loungers, a float room, saunas and steam rooms.

A major triumph on board Celebrity Beyond is Eden, a gorgeous space at the end of the ship spanning three decks of art installations, tropical plants, a cocktail bar, café and a fine-dining restaurant. By night, Eden changes into a sultry nightclub with acrobatic cabaret dancers.

Here, there is also, a beautiful, airy lounge at the aft end of the ship, spanning three decks and encircled on three sides by the greatest expanse of glass ever to be fitted on a cruise ship.

It’s also the little touches that have made Celebrity Beyond the most innovative ship out there – LED chandelier light shows, the sculptural trees in The Rooftop Garden and much more.

The Rooftop Garden on Celebrity Beyond (bottom); Royal Suite aboard Avalon View

Highly Commended + AVALON VIEW

• Avalon View is the newest addition to Avalon Waterways’ 15-strong fleet of Suite Ships – the youngest river ships to sail Europe’s waterways. She is well named – her 65 Panorama Suites and two Royal Suites boast wall-to-wall and floor-to-ceiling panoramic windows that turn your living space into an amazing open-air balcony. The Panorama Suites are more than 30 per cent larger than the industry standard and feature Avalon’s signature windowfacing beds (why don’t all river cruise lines configure beds like this?), while at 300 square feet (28 sq m), the Royal Suites are exceptionally spacious. Other modern touches in suites that readers liked are plentiful USB ports and colour-coded bath towels.

Best Ocean Line VIKING

* Winner

• This is a big year for Viking. The company is celebrating its 25-year anniversary, it launched its new brand Viking Expeditions in February, eight new Longships have set sail on Europe’s rivers and two new oceangoing ships, Viking Mars and Viking Neptune, bring Viking’s ocean fleet to nine. Considering Viking’s first ocean ship, Viking Star, launched just seven years ago, that’s an extraordinary achievement – and one that readers are enthusiastically backing.

Viking’s nine small, Scandinavian-style ocean ships are virtually identical. Each one accommodates a maximum of 930 guests in all-balcony staterooms; fares include a free shore excursion in every port, alternative dining, and free soft and alcoholic drinks with meals; and there is a strong emphasis on cultural experiences, onboard and ashore in thousands of desirable destinations around the globe. As chairman Torstein Hagen said when launching the ocean line, it is about providing a “thinking person’s cruise” and its no-kids and no-casino policies have proved to be a huge hit.

Hagen has also said Viking is not a “luxury” line, although its Nordic spa (where the thermal suite and snow room are free to use), elegant Wintergarden dining/pool deck, Aquavit Terrace and airy public spaces are beautifully designed and offer a cruise experience that’s pretty close to high-end.

Highly Commended

+ PRINCESS CRUISES

• Princess Cruises has been a firm favourite with Cruise & Travel readers for many years across several categories, and this is the first time Princess has been pipped at the post for the Best Ocean Cruise Line award. However, the 15-ship line has taken the honours for this year’s Best Premium Cruise Line, Best Line for Entertainment and Best for Shore Excursions, so it’s still ticking plenty of boxes.

For the coming season, Princess fans Down Under have three ships to choose from – Majestic, Coral and Grand Princess – home porting in Sydney, Brisbane, Melbourne, Adelaide, Fremantle and Auckland.

Sister ships Viking Star and Viking Sea (top); Princess Cruises’ private resort in the Bahamas.

Best River Line AVALON WATERWAYS

* Winner

• Avalon Waterways operates 15 super-modern river ships in Europe, two in Asia (Ganges Voyager and Avalon Saigon), one in South America (Delfin III), and one on the Nile in Egypt (MS Farah). The company, which is part of the Globus family of travel brands, also runs special-interest river cruises in Europe that cater for a wide range of tastes – Jewish history, gardening and nature, photography, beer tasting and wine appreciation, just to name a few.

Avalon is forging ahead in the adventure arena, attracting active travellers of all ages to explore more ashore. On board every European Suite Ship you’ll find an Adventure Centre that stocks bikes, Nordic hiking poles and equipment for self-guided bike rides, runs or walks, and an Avalon Adventure Host is on hand to advise guests on the best active shore excursions and onboard classes for every fitness level. You can take a dedicated Active & Discovery itinerary, or book a number of Active & Discovery shore excursions on a regular river cruise – kayaking, cycling and walking tours are the most popular.

Fares include use of the state-of-the-art fitness centre, regional wine and beer served with lunch and dinner, excursions and free WiFi.

Highly Commended + SCENIC

• Although Australian company Scenic has expanded its operations over the years to include a sister river and ocean cruise line (Emerald Cruises) as well as a luxury expedition ship (Scenic Eclipse), it is still best known for its fleet of Space-Ships. These sail on Europe’s main rivers – the Rhine, Moselle and Danube, France’s Seine, Saône and Rhône, and Portugal’s Douro – as well as on the Mekong in Vietnam and Cambodia, with Scenic Spirit. The ships accommodate a maximum of 163 guests, which means plenty of space for everyone – in generously sized suites, large dining venues and on the expansive rooftop deck.

A Scenic ship on the Danube (above); the Panorama Lounge on board Avalon Illumination

Best Luxury River Line SCENIC

* Winner

• Cruise & Travel readers are big fans of all-inclusive fares –when they actually mean “all” inclusive. There’s a definite sense of luxury knowing that once you board the ship you can lock your wallet away until you disembark – there’s no nickel and diming or bill shock at the end of a cruise.

Scenic’s fares cover everything from staff gratuities to drinks whenever and wherever you fancy one, a minibar in your suite that’s restocked daily, WiFi, butler service in every suite, and access to a well-equipped gym (and a wellness team to lead you through top-deck yoga classes and other onboard and onshore activities). About the only things you need to pay extra for are spa treatments; revitalising sessions in the Salt Therapy Rooms are complimentary, and unique to Scenic.

But yes, there’s more. E-bikes are provided at every port, for guided or independent cycling tours. Shore excursions are included in the fare, even exclusive experiences such as private concerts in palaces under the Scenic Enrich program.

Scenic Space-Ship guests enjoy a variety of dining options, including wine-paired degustation evenings, casual fare at the River Café, intimate dinners at Portobellos and open-seating in the main Crystal dining room.

Highly Commended

+ AVALON WATERWAYS

• Avalon Waterways and Scenic have swapped positions in this year’s awards; previously, Avalon won Best Luxury River Cruise Line in 2019 and 2020, while Scenic was highly commended.

At this level of luxury river cruising, it is hard to pinpoint the differences and much comes down to individual taste. While Avalon may take the lead in its Active & Discovery themed cruises and shore excursions, Scenic is known for the inclusivity of its fares. Avalon has a reputation for unfussy, unpretentious service and, as we’ve mentioned before, the floor-to-ceiling windows and window-facing beds in its Panorama Suites are a big factor in the line’s popularity.

on the river with Scenic (above); and Avalon Waterways in Europe.

Luxury

Best Luxury Ocean Line REGENT SEVEN SEAS CRUISES

* Winner

• It will come as no surprise to regular Regent Seven Seas Cruises guests to learn that the ultra-luxury line’s 2025 world cruise on Seven Seas Mariner sold out in record time; in fact, the voyage was completely reserved before officially opening for bookings in June 2022. This is the fourth consecutive year that an RSSC world cruise broke sales records.

Likewise, Seven Seas Explorer’s first cruises in local waters –she arrives in December for a short series of cruises between Sydney and Auckland – have been mostly waitlist-only for months. If you’ve missed out, book now for her return visit in December 2023 through to January 2024.

RSSC is renowned for offering the most inclusive fares in the rarefied world of ultra-luxury cruising, along with very high crew-to-guest and space-per-guest ratios, world-class dining and five opulent all-balcony ships (its newest, Seven Seas Splendor, is tagged ‘Luxury Perfected’, while Seven Seas Grandeur will join the fleet in November 2023 as the ‘Heritage of Perfection’).

Seven Seas Grandeur will be almost identical to Explorer and Splendor (all three boast the palatial 312-square-metre Regent Suites), but one important difference will be the dramatically redesigned Compass Rose restaurant, which will not only wow guests with its spectacular décor but offer a completely reimagined menu.

Highly Commended + PONANT

• While Ponant scores the No. 1 spot for Best Adventure Line, it is part of a rapidly growing trend that combines high levels of luxury with adventurous itineraries. Ponant has 34 years’ experience in the luxury expedition sector and its fleet has expanded from one vessel to 13 –with a zero-impact eco-ship on the drawing board for 2025.

Ponant ships are the height of understated elegance, inside and out. Every ship features a spa, well-stocked library, a heated swimming pool and a theatre. Fine food and wines – French and international – are served in the main dining room and the more casual venue.

White-gloved service on Ponant (right); ultraluxury line Regent Seven Seas Cruises.

Best Premium Line PRINCESS CRUISES

* Winner

• Once again Princess Cruises has captured the hearts and minds of local cruisers, who have voted the line at the top of the Premium Cruise Line category. Did the recent screening of The Real Love Boat tip the balance for first-time cruisers, too? As all seasoned Princess fans know, the original 1970s TV series The Love Boat was filmed on various Princess ships over the years. The original cast reunited in 2014 to celebrate the line’s 50th anniversary and christen Regal Princess in Fort Lauderdale. Cruise & Travel readers also voted for Princess Cruises to take out the Best line for Entertainment category in this year’s Readers’ Choice Awards.

Today, Princess Cruises operates 15 ships around the world. The ships range in size from the 2,000-guest Coral Princess to the six 3,660-guest Royal-class vessels, with the 4,000-guest Sun Princess – the line’s biggest – scheduled to make her debut in early 2024. Regardless of the ships’ size, Princess offers guests a sense of familiarity and tradition across the fleet. There’s a strong focus on dining: guests can choose from free venues such as the International Café and main dining rooms or enjoy specialty dining at very reasonable prices. Professional shows, destination-themed activities and family-friendly itineraries all add to the line’s huge appeal to fans of premium cruising.

Highly Commended + CELEBRITY CRUISES

• Celebrity Cruises has operated Down Under for several years and this season Celebrity Eclipse will be cruising in local waters until April 2023. She is sailing a variety of itineraries in Australia, New Zealand, Fiji and Tonga.

A favourite feature on the 2,852-guest, Solstice-class ship is the real grass lawn at The Lawn Club; Deck 15 is also where you’ll find glass-blowing classes, fun activities for kids and the atmospheric Sunset Bar. Celebrity Eclipse offers a range of stylish accommodation, including the AquaClass for spa lovers and The Retreat, which has its own restaurant and lounge. Celebrity is renowned for its dining, sophisticated bars and theatrical events.

Dining on Celebrity Cruises (left); Princess Cruises’ mighty Sun Princess.

Best Contemporary Line NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE

* Winner

• Having recently launched Norwegian Prima in Iceland to worldwide fanfare, Norwegian Cruise Line’s contemporary fleet now numbers 17. Fourteen ships are divided into five classes: Sun, Dawn, Jewel, Breakaway and Breakaway Plus Class. Norwegian Epic, Pride of America and Norwegian Spirit are in their own classes, adding to the brand’s variety of vessels.

Norwegian Spirit returns to Sydney in December for a series of 12-night port-intensive cruises between Sydney and Auckland. The 2,032-guest ship was extensively remodelled in 2020 and has lots to offer cruisers of all ages. Sport facilities include a basketball court, a kids’ waterpark and a swimming pool; spa lovers will find indulgent treatments at Mandara Spa; and the ship has a great choice of complimentary and for-fee dining venues, bars and lounges. The Stardust Theater hosts comedy and variety shows, and if you fancy a flutter there’s a sizeable casino.

NCL was one of the first cruise lines to offer the ‘ship within a ship’ concept, an exclusive enclave that has its own luxurious accommodation, restaurant, lounge, 24/7 butler service and often its own pool. The Haven by Norwegian is available on 11 of its ships (although not on Norwegian Spirit) and it has proved to be a major drawcard for multi-gen family groups.

Highly Commended + ROYAL CARIBBEAN INTERNATIONAL

• Royal Caribbean snags a Highly Commended mention here and in the Best Line for Families, as well as taking out Best Line for Activities in this year’s Readers’ Choice Awards. RCI is part of the Royal Caribbean Group, which also operates Celebrity Cruises and Silversea Cruises, and it operates 26 ships in six different classes of megaship.

The fleet includes five of the world’s biggest cruise ships (Oasis-class ships that carry up to 9,000 passengers and crew), as well as five 4,180-guest Quantum class ships. Sister ships Quantum and Ovation of the Seas are cruising Down Under for the 2022-23 season, Quantum sailing out of Brisbane and Ovation from Sydney.

NCL’s everpopular speedway (above); Royal Caribbean’s Wonder of the Seas

Best Adventure Line PONANT

* Winner

• Ponant’s 12 luxury expedition vessels sail to some of the world’s most remote, sought-after destinations and the company has garnered many awards over the 34 years it has been operating. It is committed to sustainable travel and is the first international cruise company to receive Green Marine Europe environmental certification – three years in a row.

Whereas expedition cruising was once something only for hardcore pioneers, Ponant offers luxury expedition and soft adventure cruising aboard sleek, stylish ships that can slip in and out of ports and tiny bays that are inaccessible to vessels carrying more than a few hundred guests. Ponant’s four sister ships, L’Austral, Le Boréal, Le Lyrial and Le Soléal accommodate up to 264 guests each. The six Explorers, Le Champlain, Le Laperous, Le Bougainville Le Dumont-D’urville, Le Bellot and Le Jacques-Cartier, accommodate up to 184 guests and are known for their multi-sensorial, underwater Blue Eye lounges. Going further south than any other ship has done before, luxury icebreaker Le Commandant Charcot set a new world record in February 2022 when she reached the extreme latitude of 78˚44.3’ south in the Bay of Whales in Antarctica’s Ross Sea.

Ponant guests return again and again for the ships’ elegantly appointed accommodation and public spaces, fine wining and dining, and wonderful sense of camaraderie.

Highly Commended + VIKING

• Viking’s first expedition ship, Viking Octantis, set sail for Antarctica in January 2022 and just nine months later, sister ship Viking Polaris followed in her twin’s wake for her maiden season in the White Continent. The identical ships host a maximum of 378 guests and regulars will recognise some of Viking River and Ocean lines’ signature features – The Nordic Spa, The Living Room, The Library and dining venues Mamsens and Manfredi’s. Naturally, there are many new, state-of-the-art spaces and facilities, such as an industry-first in-ship marina (The Hangar), The Science Lab and the latest must-have water toys – two mini-submarines.

Adventure-filled Zodiac excursions from Commandant Charcot (above); and from Viking Octantis

Best Yachts SCENIC

* Winner

• Scenic’s first ‘Discovery Yacht’, Scenic Eclipse, set sail in August 2019 after a series of delayed starts and was christened by Dame Helen Mirren in New York a few weeks later. Scenic Eclipse II is due for completion by April next year and will join Scenic Eclipse sailing itineraries taking in the Mediterranean, Scotland, the Americas, the Caribbean and both Polar regions. In 2024, Scenic Eclipse II will also visit Polynesia, Indonesia and – hooray! – Australia, where Scenic was founded 37 years ago.

The elegant 228-guest vessels are not only Polar-rated and among the most technologically advanced at sea – two helicopters and a mini-submarine allow another level of exploration – they provide an extraordinarily glamorous lifestyle. Every spacious suite features floor-to-ceiling sliding doors that open to a private balcony or terrace, where your butler can deliver morning coffee or evening cocktails. There are up to 10 dining options, including contemporary French restaurant Lumière, the main Elements dining room and Night Market @ Koko’s; meals at all venues and premium beverages are included in the fare.

Guests’ health and wellbeing are at the forefront of the Discovery Yacht experience, from onshore adventures to onboard fitness programs and spa treatments. There’s even a separate yoga and Pilates studio.

Highly Commended + PONANT

• Ponant’s first vessel, the 88-metre, threemasted yacht Le Ponant, is something of a legend in the sailing world. Boasting a one-toone crew-to-guest ratio (32/32), she was completely refurbished this year ahead of her first Kimberley season, which starts in April 2023. She epitomises French chic and once on board, you feel as though you’re holidaying on your own private yacht; Kimberley itineraries will be flexible to allow for as much wind-powered sailing as possible. Ponant’s partnership with Paspaley gives guests private access to Paspaley’s pearl operations in Kuri Bay as well as transfers on the company’s vintage flying boats.

Scenic Eclipse helped Scenic top the yacht class this year (below); on deck with Ponant.

Best for Activities ROYAL CARIBBEAN

* Winner

• For the sixth year in a row, Royal Caribbean has won our top award for the Best Line for Activities. And no wonder – Royal’s megaships are packed with wild and wonderful things to do, from screaming down the tallest slide at sea (Ultimate Abyss, on Oasis-class ships) to skydiving on iFly (Quantum-class ships), surfing on the FlowRider (on 18 ships) and rockclimbing high above the ocean (all ships). The line operates the award-winning Adventure Ocean program for kids and teens across the fleet.

Sister ships Quantum and Ovation of the Seas, which are sailing in local waters for the 2022-23 season, have so many activities you’d be hard-pressed to experience them all, even during a 12-night cruise. The ships’ Seaplex centre includes a vast arena for bumper cars, roller-skating, a basketball court and a circus school. Then there are four swimming pools, a sports court, fitness centre and, for a spot of mental gymnastics, the Escape Room and Laser Tag.

More relaxing options include a ride in the North Star observation capsule, for views 100 metres above sea level; sampling 17 dining options and multiple bars and lounges; catching a show or movie; and indulging in a spa treatment.

Highly Commended + P&O CRUISES

• ‘Homegrown’ cruise line P&O Cruises’ three ships, Pacific Adventure, Pacific Encounter and Pacific Explorer, have lots to offer kids, grown-ups and multi-generational families – there are more than 60 different activities every day.

Head to P&O Edge Adventure Park for the Flying Fox, Bridge Roof Walk, Rock Climbing, Walk the Plank and Laser Tag, or enjoy a thrilling ride on the Twin Racer Waterslides. Barefoot Bowls is a P&O specialty, and traditional cruise games include golf putting, table tennis and quoits. You can sign up for classes from cocktail- and coffee-making to dancing and fitness – or take time to relax in The Oasis.

Flying high on Royal Caribbean (above); poolside fun on homegrown line P&O Cruises.

Best for Entertainment PRINCESS CRUISES

* Winner

• Princess Cruises again stages a winning performance in the Best Line for Entertainment category – for the sixth year in a row. The line is renowned for its original musicals (produced by top directors and choreographers and performed by fabulous international casts) as well as lavish production shows and Broadway classics.

To celebrate The Real Love Boat TV show, Princess has introduced The Love Boat Piazza Party on board Discovery Princess and is now rolling it out to the rest of the fleet. The evening features musicians, dancers, a love-themed game show and a Love Potion cocktail – look out for it on your next Princess cruise. Coral Princess is now sailing year-round from Brisbane and is joined in Australia this season by Majestic Princess (home-porting in Sydney) and Grand Princess (home-porting in Melbourne).

The line-up of entertainers at various venues around the ships includes magicians, singers, instrumentalists, jugglers, acrobats and more, while Movies Under the Stars is a signature Princess experience. Throughout the day and night, the giant screen shows films, concerts and exciting live sporting events.

Festivals of the World are held on select cruises – these lively gala events celebrate traditions from destinations around the globe visited by Princess Cruises.

Highly Commended + CELEBRITY CRUISES

• Celebrity’s fleet of three Edge, five Solstice and four Millennium class ships offer a range of entertainment that varies according to the size and age of the ships –the newer Edge-class ships take entertainment to a whole new level. The high-tech theatre is extraordinarily versatile and hosts production shows featuring contemporary music; part of the Eden complex is an entertainment venue; The Club hosts late-night discos and intimate shows; and The Rooftop Garden is dotted with small stages for solo musos. While she’s cruising Down Under, Celebrity Eclipse is staging three very different, very professional shows: Amade, Rock City and Topper

A winner of a show, Topper on Celebrity Cruises (above); and Stardust on Princess Cruises.

Best for Families DISNEY CRUISE LINE

* Winner

• Next year Disney Cruise Line will be sailing around Australia and New Zealand for the first time, and the response has been phenomenal. The 2,713-guest Disney Wonder, one of five in DCL’s fleet, will sail a limited season of short itineraries out of Brisbane, Melbourne, Sydney and Auckland from October 2023.

Clearly, the Disney magic has been working on Cruise & Travel readers who have cruised on the line’s distinctive, black, red and gold-hulled ships in the Caribbean, Europe, Alaska and other cruise hotspots. Guests sailing on cruises in the Bahamas and the Caribbean get to visit Castaway Cay, DCL’s private island, which offers everything from beach and water activities to scenic walking trails, tram tours and a games pavilion.

Disney ships are designed and built with family fun front of mind, from the range of accommodation through dining, pools (there are separate pools for over-18s), waterslides and shops, plus dozens of entertainment and activities including appearances by popular Disney, Marvel and Star Wars characters and, of course, spectacular live shows.

Disney’s kids’ programs cater for kids aged three to 12, tweens and teens and there are numerous age-appropriate clubs, hangouts and activities. Group babysitting and playtime are available for babies six months and older, and there are also family lounges and arcades.

Highly Commended + ROYAL CARIBBEAN

• As well as providing brilliant activities for kids of all ages, Royal Caribbean’s ships are incredibly well set up for family cruisers in terms of accommodation, dining and other facilities. If you have a baby in the family, let the cruise line know and they will provide a cot and supplies; extended families can choose connecting staterooms; and all the ships are equipped for guests with special needs. Royal Caribbean offers two categories of ultra-family-friendly suites: Royal Suite Class (available on Oasis-class and select Quantum-class ships) and the Ultimate Family Suite (available exclusively on board Symphony, Spectrum and Wonder of the Seas).

A crowning achievement for Disney Cruise Line (below); Ultimate Abyss slide on Royal Caribbean.

Best for Dining OCEANIA CRUISES

* Winner

• Oceania Cruises has long claimed to serve ‘the finest cuisine at sea’ (the line has even trademarked the phrase) and Cruise & Travel readers have voted Oceania into the top spot for five years in a row. Dining options are slightly different on the four smaller R-class ships (Insignia, Nautica, Regatta and Sirena) and their larger fleet mates, the O-class Marina and Riviera; and the upcoming Oceania Vista takes Oceania’s culinary journey even further.

Cuisine across the fleet is overseen by renowned French masterchef Jacques Pepin. Gourmet restaurants (four on the R-class ships, more on the O-class ships) cater to the most discerning palates and offer a remarkable array of choices, from Continental cuisine to authentic Italian at Toscana, Asian dishes at Red Ginger and classic steakhouse fare. Every restaurant on board is complimentary and has open seating.

Guests on board Riviera and Marina can enjoy the new Dom Pérignon Experience at La Reserve by Wine Spectator. Six courses of gastronomic delights are paired with three specially selected vintages of Dom Pérignon Champagne. The two ships also host Privée, a magnificent private dining room that features select dishes from a range of menus; the famed Culinary Center, which offers sophisticated cooking classes; and Culinary Discovery Tours ashore.

Highly Commended + CELEBRITY CRUISES

• Dining on Celebrity’s ships is first class, whether you opt for complimentary restaurants or specialty venues. The stunning main dining room on Solstice-class ships, including Celebrity Eclipse, serves a wide range of classic and contemporary dishes for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Specialty restaurants include Murano, Sushi on Five and Tuscan Grille, while Le Petit Chef combines entertainment, 3D table animation and international cuisines in a dining experience like no other.

The stylish Blu restaurant is open exclusively to AquaClass guests, and specialises in fresh, inventive cuisine and a menu of sustainable and biodynamic wines. Luminae is a chic venue for guests of The Retreat.

Oceania Cruises’ Toscana restaurant (above); first-class dining on Celebrity Cruises.

Best for Spa CUNARD

* Winner

• Cunard’s gracious queens make the spa experience at sea a must-do. The Aqua Therapy centre on board Queen Mary 2, Queen Elizabeth – sailing in local waters until March – Queen Victoria and the highly anticipated Queen Anne is a case in point.

The Aqua Therapy centre features aromatic steam and sensory showers, Finnish saunas, swirling pools and a relaxation lounge, perfect for unwinding before a spa treatment or relaxing after a workout.

Starting or maintaining a fitness program is easy when the ships’ well-equipped gyms are close to hand. Exercise and yoga classes are guided by expert instructors, or you can opt to pay extra for personal training sessions and consultations.

Mareel Wellness and Beauty offers a delectable selection of treatments inspired by the ocean. Facials range from those focusing on anti-ageing and contouring to treatments that boost your skin’s overall health, using a combination of exfoliation, massage and nutrient-rich skincare products.

Body treatments include traditional Swedish massage with essential oils, aroma stone massage using warm stones to help release tension and a total body therapy that targets specific ailments. Couples can book specially designed treatments for two – a blissful escape on a sea day. Other services include a hairdresser, beauty salon, Medi-Spa and alternative therapies.

Highly Commended + PRINCESS CRUISES

• Princess ships all feature the popular Lotus Spa, where guests can indulge in pampering facials, alternative treatments such as acupuncture, a range of massages and much more. The Lotus Spa Fitness Center offers fitness programs designed to help you maximise your wellness with Tour de Cycle, personal training and classes such as Pilates, yoga, Body Sculpt Boot Camp, Results Based Training and TRX suspension training. The Lotus Spa Fitness Center also features state-of-the-art equipment so you can tone on your own. The piece de resistance is The Enclave, a massive thermal suite and a hydro-therapy pool with a cascading rain shower and therapeutic air jets.

Hot stone massage on Cunard (above); The Enclave on board Enchanted Princess (right)

Best for Service REGENT SEVEN SEAS CRUISES

* Winner

• The ultra-luxe line, which operates ‘the most luxurious fleet in the world’ gets Cruise & Travel readers’ vote for best service for the third year running. Regent Seven Seas is celebrating its 30th anniversary and its impeccable service in all areas is just one reason why the company continues to sail from strength to strength.

Regent ships have one of the highest crew-to-guest ratios in the business – on board Seven Seas Explorer, which is making her maiden visit to Australia and New Zealand this season, 567 crew members look after a maximum of 732 guests. The company prides itself not only on the exceptionally high crew-to-guest ratio, but also on the professionalism and friendliness of its crew. Many guests request cruises on ships where they know the crew personally.

Guests staying in penthouse suites and above enjoy 24/7 butler service, and if you’re among the fortunate few who book one of the two extraordinarily lavish Regent Suites, you will also have a personal driver at every port of call. However, you can be sure that all suites are immaculately maintained by outstanding attendants who restock your minibar and bathroom amenities daily. World-class wining and dining are further enhanced by the services of your maître d’, sommelier and wait staff.

A-one service on Regent Seven Seas Cruises (main picture); Ponant’s butlers are a favourite (below).

Highly Commended + PONANT

• The exemplary service on board Ponant’s luxury expedition ships is all about giving you the feeling that you are travelling on your own private yacht. Whether you’re taking a leisurely cruise on the Mediterranean or exploring the world’s most remote regions, Ponant’s attentive crew members are dedicated to providing every guest with an exceptionally comfortable experience. Guests staying in the Deck 6 suites on the four Sisterships and in select suites on the six Ponant Explorers enjoy personalised butler service for that extra dimension of carefree adventuring. Waitstaff in the restaurants are polished and professional and every expedition cruise is accompanied by Ponant’s onboard expedition experts.

Best for Accommodation VIKING

* Winner

• Viking’s signature streamlined, Scandinavian-style interior design has proved popular with Cruise & Travel readers, as it takes over this year’s No.1 spot in the accommodation category. Whether you’re taking a river cruise, ocean voyage or, now, an expedition cruise with Viking, you know you’ll be staying in similarly elegant and well-appointed staterooms.

Viking’s 76-strong fleet of river ships were the first to feature its patented corridor configuration, which allowed the line to offer a variety of staterooms that range from Veranda and French Balcony Staterooms to Veranda and Explorer Suites. Viking Longships were also the first river ships to provide suites in the true meaning of the word – having two separate rooms rather than just one large space.

Interiors of the river, ocean and expedition ships are all designed by the same award-winning interior design team, Rottet Studio in Los Angeles. Features include pale blond wood panelling, splashes of colour in the soft furnishings and an overall clean, pared-back colour palette. Viking’s chairman, Torstein Hagen, is a stickler for details and after spending so much time staying in hotels he wanted things to be kept simple. Guests know they’re going to get large showers with clear controls (and no clingy shower curtains); top-quality bathroom products; anti-fog mirrors; and heated floors.

An elegant Owners Suite on Viking Jupiter; superior accommodation on board Norwegian Cruise Line (right).

Highly Commended + NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE

• NCL is known for many ‘first at sea’ features and offers an impressive range of accommodation options. The line introduced purpose-built staterooms and exclusive lounges for solo travellers to the world of cruising, as well as pioneering the ‘ship within a ship’ concept – The Haven – that is now available in a similar form on several big-ship lines.

Norwegian Getaway, Norwegian Breakaway, Norwegian Epic, Norwegian Escape, Norwegian Encore, Norwegian Bliss and Pride of America all feature the award-winning Studios, which are designed and priced for singles – a boon for many cruisers who otherwise have to pay a single supplement.

passenger cruıse

Best for Shore Excursions PRINCESS CRUISES

* Winner

• The Princess fleet sails to hundreds of countries around the world and the line offers an impressive variety of shore excursions in every port. Whether you’re exploring a major city, a tiny village or a historic site – as a couple, single traveller or with your family – Princess has an excursion that appeals to every interest and taste.

For those looking for immersive tours that would be virtually impossible to arrange individually, small-group Discovery Exclusive Tours are the way to go. In Alaska’s Juneau, for example, you can take a tour of a lifetime that combines a helicopter ride and landing on Taku Glacier with an airboat trip.

Local Connections are tours where local experts take you on an insightful journey only they can lead. Excursions are designed to match a wide variety of interests – you could learn about bagpipes and whisky in Scotland, say, or beer aficionados might meet a master brewer anywhere from Dunedin to Tallinn.

Discovery Family tours are tailored for family groups and provide activities that appeal as much to young children as to their grandparents – which can be challenging to organise yourself! Then there are specialised trips for animal lovers, hands-on culinary tours, and a wealth of opportunities to immerse yourself in all forms of culture.

Highly Commended + AVALON WATERWAYS

• When you visit a new port, or even two, every day, there are endless opportunities to explore ashore. Avalon’s river ships sail in Europe, Asia and South America and tours can be as organised or independent as you choose. Guided tours with local experts come under three main programs, which are pretty self-explanatory –Classic, Active and Discovery – and you can also personalise shore experiences with optional excursions. The handy AvalonGo app is perfect for self-guided walking and cycling tours and is loaded with GPS navigation and information about local attractions, restaurants and bars. Avalon’s Active tours have played a big part in the line’s appeal to younger, fitter travellers.

Avalon Waterways’ Rhone cruisers on a winery walk (left); horse-riding in the Caribbean with Princess (below).

Best for Sustainability HURTIGRUTEN EXPEDITIONS

* Winner

• Once known primarily for sailing on Norway’s western and northern coasts between Bergen and Kirkenes, delivering supplies to local townships as well as ferrying passengers, Hurtigruten today operates expedition cruises in Antarctica, Alaska, Iceland, Greenland and the Northwest Passage as well as in warmweather destinations such as the Galapagos and West Africa.

Hurtigruten has been sailing in Polar waters since 1893 and says that “exploring our blue planet for more than a century has taught us the importance of being green”. In 2018 Hurtigruten became the first expedition line to ban non-essential single-use plastic across all its operations, and the following year it unveiled the world’s first hybrid expedition ship, MS Roald Amundsen

As well as committing to operating sustainably powered, cutting-edge ships, Hurtigruten is a strong supporter of the small communities the ships visit. Trading locally, sourcing regional produce and engaging local companies to provide shore excursions are key to the line’s philosophy. Cultural interactions and the resulting long-term friendships also imbue guests’ experiences with a positive feel-good factor.

Hurtigruten is a founder member of the Association of Arctic Expedition Cruise Operators (AECO), a member of the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO), and has committed to the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals.

Highly Commended + PONANT

• Luxury expedition company Ponant is another pioneer in the field of sustainable tourism. This year, Ponant was again awarded Green Marine Europe certification – the only international cruise company to be certified –and its Blue Horizon program encompasses six strategic commitments to reducing waste and emissions as well as supporting scientific research.

Last year Ponant launched the world’s first hybrid-electric LNG-powered luxury icebreaker, Le Commandant Charcot. Now the company is working on an eco-design ship that will have zero impact on the environment when sailing. The aim is to combine several non-fossil fuel energy sources, including wind propulsion, by integrating technological bricks.

Kayaking Storo Island, Greenland, with Ponant (right); MS Roald Amundsen, Tracy Arm fjord, Alaska.

Best Cruise Port SYDNEY

* Winner

• Whether you’re a local, from interstate or an international visitor or a ship’s captain, sailing in or out of Sydney Harbour is always a high point of any cruise. Ships that are too large to pass under the Harbour Bridge dock at the Overseas Passenger Terminal, which has been operating since the 1950s and has seen significant refurbishments over the years. The OPT, or as it is officially known, Sydney Cove Passenger Terminal, is perfectly positioned for exploring Sydney’s best-known attractions – the Sydney Opera House and Sydney Harbour Bridge – as well as walking around the historic Rocks area or joining a day tour that takes you further afield. Jumping on the Manly ferry is another popular option – Manly’s ocean beach is a worthy rival to busy Bondi Beach, and a short walk takes you to secluded Shelly Beach where those in the know dive, swim and snorkel year-round.

Smaller ships generally dock at Rozelle’s White Bay Cruise Terminal. It’s not quite as convenient as the OPT but Sydney’s shops, bars, restaurants, museums and galleries are a short taxi or shuttle bus ride away. And if you’re already well-acquainted with the city’s main attractions, why not explore the buzzy Inner West neighbourhoods such as Newtown and Marrickville (recently voted the secondcoolest suburb in Australia by Time Out magazine).

Queen Mary II docks at Sydney’s Overseas Passenger Terminal (above); Brisbane’s new cruise terminal.

Highly Commended + BRISBANE

• Brisbane’s new International Cruise Terminal welcomed its first arrival, Pacific Explorer, in June 2022 and was officially opened by Queensland Premier Annastacia Palaszczuk at the same time. P&O’s Pacific Encounter, Princess Cruises’ Coral Princess and Carnival Cruise Line’s Carnival Luminosa are homeporting in Brisbane yearround and this season they are joined by Majestic Princess and Royal Caribbean’s Quantum of the Seas. Brisbane has a wealth of attractions for visitors and locals alike and its sunny, temperate climate makes it ideal for al fresco dining and bar-hopping, beach and boating activities. The South Bank area is a buzzy entertainment, cultural and shopping hub, with acres of picturesque parks.

Escapes

104 Sydney’s luxury hotels | 108 Song of the desert | 131 Six Senses, Israel

The best-selling author has a passion for Italy and its art – and it has informed his novels over the years.

My first trip to Italy was …with a friend when I was about 19. I was living in Somerset at the time and so we headed by train, ferry and more trains across Europe. It was a long, slow journey. When I got to Venice, I just couldn’t believe its beauty. Seeing it was an experience in itself. We stayed for about a week, in a hostel, and did all the touristy things, including visits to the galleries and a ride on a gondola. It was my first taste of real Italian food, too. Spaghetti followed by more spaghetti. I didn’t learn the finer joys of Italian cooking until much later in life. I remember we ran out of money as well. I made another trip to Italy to take part in an athletics meet in Rome. I remember we stayed outside the city and travelled in. Walking around the streets, I really enjoyed getting to know the city.

Rome has such amazing galleries. The Vatican Museums art gallery in particular is very, very special. You can see Caravaggio and all the greats there. And of course the National Gallery of Modern Art has some fabulous art. I really had fallen for Italy and art in a big way. I had no artistic talent of my own, but I just loved to be around it. I did visit quite a few art galleries after I fell in love with a girl when I was at Wellington School in Somerset, although that relationship didn’t last.

I always say write about what you know.

Art, as well as business and politics, has been appearing in one guise or another in my books across the years. By the time I started writing my first novel, Not a Penny More, Not a Penny Less, I was in my thirties. One of the main characters in that first

novel was an art gallery owner.

We all bonded over a love of art and Italy.

By the time I had written three or four books, I met an owner of an art gallery, Christopher Beetles, and Simon Bainbridge, who worked at the famous Hatchards bookshop. We started going for what became virtually an annual trip to different cities or towns in Italy. We tend to go for a few days in the spring or autumn, which fits in with my writing schedule. As the scholar, Simon decided which places and galleries we would visit. He would tell us over breakfast about what we were going to do that day and we’d set off to see whatever galleries, churches and monuments he had chosen. He made sure that we only ever looked at a dozen pictures and half a dozen sculptures a day, so as to avoid “art fatigue”. He would tell us about the selected objects – it was an immense privilege to have

his scholarship and Dr Beetles’s knowledge for me as a layman.

I’m happy with my spaghetti bolognese … as it brings a smile to my lips, but no, this is not good enough for Dr Beetles and Mr Bainbridge, who like to sample wines and test the dishes. After 40 years of dining with them, I am still none the wiser, but it has been a privilege to sit at their feet and eat the leftovers.

You don’t have to go to Venice, Florence and Rome to see masterpieces. Over the past 35 or 40 years, we have visited 50 to 60 cities and

towns across Italy, some very small but in possession of remarkable masterpieces, such as the Madonna del Parto by Piero della Francesca in Monterchi, or Fra Angelico’s Annunciation of Cortona in Cortona. I was lucky because Simon knew where to go and look for them as he had been there before.

Having said that, I do love Florence. It has three of the best art galleries in the world, namely the Uffizi, the Bargello and the Pitti Palace. I have a particular love of Rembrandt’s paintings, especially his self-portraits, which I think are amazing. For the first book in the William Warwick series, I placed the detective in the art and antiquities squad, where he was investigating the theft of a priceless Rembrandt painting, so art is still very much a theme in my work.

Other places that have a place in my heart … are Umbria and Tuscany – and when I’m in Sicily, I have to make a pit stop at Corrado Costanzo in Noto. Their stracciatella ice cream is sublime.

Interview by Roz Lewis. CT

A long love affair Opposite: Jeffrey Archer at home in Cambridge, England. From top: Venice’s Piazza San Marco; Venice as seen from the water; frescoes in Naples Cathedral.

Jeffrey Archer: “We only ever looked at a dozen pictures a day, so as to avoid ‘art fatigue’.”

LUXE LISTINGS

As more and more premium hotels grace Sydney’s skyline, it’s clear the city is shaping up as one of the world’s best destinations for a luxury hotel stay. With major brands such as the Waldorf Astoria, Fullerton, Capella and the W opening in the Emerald City, visitors will be spoilt for choice of luxury hotels.

/ Ace Hotel Sydney

The Ace Hotel group marked its first venture into the Southern Hemisphere earlier this year, opening a 257-room hotel in Sydney’s Surry Hills.

There are plenty of options for eating and drinking, including the hotel’s rooftop restaurant Kiln, headed by local chef Mitch Orr; a ground-floor neighbourhood restaurant Loam; the café-bar Good Chemistry; and a suave cocktail bar in the hotel lobby.

writes Tallis Boerne Marcus.

There’s also an extensive collection of art on display, sourced from contemporary Australian artists and curated by Nina Fitzgerald of The Impact Lab. The collection has an emphasis on First Nations artists, as well as their stories and local history.

/ Kimpton Margot Sydney

The boutique Kimpton Margot Sydney had a love-infused opening day on Valentine’s Day 2022 and has been treating guests to opulence ever since. The heritage-listed building is now fully decked-out as a high-end hotel, with 172 rooms across six flours, topped by a rooftop swimming pool. It’s nestled in a prime location between Hyde Park and the Queen Victoria Building, within walking distance to Darling Harbour.

Luxury is served up as soon as you step foot in the lobby with its expansive

decor and marble columns. Don’t miss celebrity chef Luke Mangan’s on-site restaurant, Luke’s Kitchen, and you’re also just a touch away from The Wilmot Bar, where you have your pick of 35 gins and 40 whiskeys.

Rooms are spacious and meticulously put together, and the hotel’s policy of “anything that fits through the door” allows you to bring your pets with you.

/ Crown Sydney

Crown Sydney has continued to add to its offerings since it opened in late 2020, with the Crown Casino and a new luxurious spa facility.

You can expect premium dining at Woodcut, Nobu, a’Mare and Omakase –all popular options in this desirable harbourside location.

A Sydney splurge

From far left: Crown Towers Sydney; the grand staircase at the history-rich Fullerton Hotel Sydney; boutique chic at Ace Hotel.

Crown hotel’s new wellness centre sits on the sixth floor of the Barangaroo building and is laying claim to being the first spa facility in Australia to offer specialist quartz hot-sand therapy and touchless spa wave therapy. There are also relaxation rooms, vitality pools, infrared saunas and steam rooms, as well as a yoga and meditation area.

Crown Resorts took more than $2 billion to put together – and it’s truly reflected in the luxury and range of facilities you find on site.

/ A by Adina

Branded as a “high-end living apartment hotel concept”, courtesy of TFE Hotels, A by Adina Sydney opened to the world in mid-2021. The NSW property was the

Sydney is fast becoming a luxury-hotel lover’s dream with high-end brands stamping their mark on the city with several new openings,

LUXE HOTELS SYDNEY

Stunning, inside and out Clockwise, from right: Ace Hotel’s The Lobby; artist’s impression of W Sydney; lobby entry at Crown Towers Sydney; the Fullerton Hotel, Martin Place.

second opening for the brand in Australia, following A by Adina Canberra.

The hotel on Hunter Street comprises 82 studio apartments, 104 one-bedroom offerings, 194 apartments and eight two-bedroom units.

It is also home to an Australian first, a sky lobby that stands 100 metres above the ground, all while customers sit within the golden crown facade of the building.

Rooms have intuitive technology that is sure to thrill guests with its ability to automatically raise the blinds, turn lights on and off, and pre-prepare the room temperature by controlling the air conditioning. A seamless welcome on entry is all but guaranteed.

Even the extractor fans in the bathroom operate automatically via sensors, with the control system described as being “a bit like a high-tech butler”.

/ Fullerton Hotel Sydney

A proud-standing hotel among the history and hustle of Martin Place, the Fullerton Hotel Sydney marked the first dabble into the Australian market for Fullerton Hotels and Resorts.

Although the hotel opened in late 2019, the interruptions of the pandemic mean many are still to get the chance to experience this new Sydney stay.

More than 38,000 working hours were poured into making the old building into the 416-room hotel it is now.

All classic Fullerton amenities are available, such as its signature afternoon tea and famed Singapore Sling cocktail.

The hotel has already captured many hearts, receiving rave reviews from customers, with particular praise for its location, facilities and comfort.

/ Porter House Sydney

Flinging open its doors in September 2022, Porter House has brought a new five-star experience to Sydney.

Sitting just a block from Hyde Park on Castlereagh Street, the hotel is an interesting mixture of the old and the new – the 36-storey modern tower interconnects via a walkway to a 146-year building.

This represents a new chapter in the Victorian building’s long journey to becoming a 122-room hotel, having previously housed a tobacco factory, a furniture manufacturer and famous leather merchants, among others.

You can treat yourself to the work of Executive Chef Emrys Jones at Dixson & Sons, enjoy all-day food at Henry’s Bread and Wine or sip smoothly at Spice Trader, a top-floor cocktail bar.

/ Waldorf Astoria

This hotel is still a little way off, with a slated opening time of early 2025, but it’s safe to assume the Waldorf Astoria bringing its luxury offering to Sydney will be well worth the wait.

Waldorf Astoria, owned by the Hilton Group, cemented its reputation as a luxury brand with its famous Park Avenue outpost in New York City. The Sydney location will stand tall above the CBD, with 179 rooms and 41 suites spread across 28 storeys. It aims to become the premier luxury hotel in Circular Quay and will be in good company with the Shangri-La, Four Seasons and Park Hyatt all nearby.

/ W Sydney

The hotly anticipated opening of the W Sydney has finally been locked in for a 2023 launch. The hotel’s general manager, Craig Seaward, says: “There have been delays, but trust me, it will be worth the wait.”

W Sydney will follow the hotel brand’s openings in Brisbane and Melbourne as part of W Hotels’ Australian presence and will be a key figurehead of a new $1 billion residential, accommodation and entertainment ‘ribbon’ complex. The hotel will pack in a massive 585 rooms, an IMAX theatre and a retail precinct.

The interior design will mirror the harbour around it, with wave and ripple motifs scattered throughout the contemporary furnishings. Guests will be able to look forward to a colourful infinity pool, a two-storey rooftop bar and extensive fitness facilities.

CT

“The hotly anticipated opening of the W Sydney has finally been locked in for a 2023 launch. There have been delays, but trust me, it will be worth the wait.”

SONG of the DESERT

A major festival demonstrates that Aboriginal peoples already have a fine voice. Teresa Ooi heard them sing.

they came from the remote town of Hermannsburg, about 130 kilometres west of Alice Springs. The grandmothers of Central Australia’s desert regions were united on a single mission – to sing in the choral choir of Morris Stuart, a former Lutheran Church pastor-turned-conductorturned artistic director.

For the past two years, they have been stuck in their faraway communities isolated from the rest of the world because of the dreaded Covid.

“As a choir, we only had the chance to practise four times a year – which really is not enough,” says Stuart.

Despite the lack of practice, the Aboriginal women with big voices were ready to sing their church songs again – but in their local Arrernte language. They learnt the hymns from their parents and grandparents who were originally taught by Western missionaries when they arrived in Hermannsburg back in 1877.

So last September, sleepy Alice Springs sprung back to life with the launch of the Desert Song Festival which showcases the Central Australian Aboriginal Women’s Choir with singers drawn from six regional Indigenous communities.

In its 13th year, the theme of the 2022 Desert Song Festival was Our Climate, Our Planet, Our Future, with musicians, singers and choirs drawn not only from the heart of Central Australia but also overseas.

As the sun set over the magnificent MacDonnell Ranges, the evening sky turned ochre pink to reflect the mountain ranges dotted with creamy spinifex bushes. The evening performance kicked off at White Gums, a suburb of Alice Springs which is home to a small Indigenous community of only 240 people.

The stage in the valley of the mountain ranges, provided the perfect acoustic backdrop as the music resonated with songs from Tonga, Africa, Central Australia desert regions, Western Arrernte, Kirtan and Christian hymns.

When the Darwin Symphony Orchestra took to the stage, the melodious and haunting songs of its lead Aboriginal singer filled the air and the audience fell silent, struck by his voice. This was followed by the amazing choirs from the Central Australian Aboriginal Women’s Choir, St Paul’s African Choir, Guwanbal Gurruwiwi and Q.

We then rushed back to the Araluen Theatre in Alice Springs for the second highlight of the festival – the energetic and highly synchronised

From left: The Central Australian Aboriginal Women’s Choir; St Paul’s African Choir; xylophone player Bassidi Koné.

A multicultural mix of performers

Unique settings

From top: Concert at the Desert Song festival, White Gum, NT; performers at the opening of the Desert Mob art festival.

performance of Spinifex Gum, an all-girl, all-Indigenous choir from Cairns. The girls aged from 12 to 20, danced and sang songs composed by Melbourne songwriter Felix Riebl of acclaimed band, The Cat Empire. The show was choreographed by Deborah Brown and conducted by Lyn Williams. Against a backdrop of fast-moving images, the girls gave a highly polished performance that was part protest and part celebration – it was a very powerful musical experience.

“From Bach to Ravi Shankar, Desert Song Festival is an invitation to Australians who do not live in Central Australia to visit Alice Springs and its surrounds and be among the custodians of the place. It will be a transforming experience. You will be blown away,” said Stuart.

This is exactly why Gary and Jeannie Kenney from NSW’s Riverina decided to come to the Desert Song music festival.

“We always go overseas for our holidays. When I saw Desert Song advertised on Facebook, I told my husband, we have to go – and we are really enjoying ourselves. It’s simply amazing,” says Jeannie Kenney.

Like other first-time visitors to Alice Springs, the Kenneys visited the spectacular Standley Chasm, a three-metre wide, 80-metre high gorge in the West MacDonnell Ranges. About a 40-minute drive west of Alice Springs, the breathtaking chasm is a cultural icon of Central Australia which was once a narrow tributary of the Finke River. Over the years, persistent rainfall and flooding have carved into the sandstone slopes creating jagged, craggy surfaces to dramatic effect.

In bold ochre red and orange hues, the rock surface glows deepest under the glare of the midday sun. Walking to the chasm you will hear the melodious thrills of various birds and spot the occasional wallaby chewing at native flowering plants.

ALICE SPRINGS

Despite the warm sunshine, the sandstone feels cool when you touch it. The sheer height of Standley Chasm makes you feel small. Owned and operated by the local Western Arrernte community, it is a place of deep cultural significance and is considered a sacred and unique site of Aboriginal women’s dreaming.

We met our Indigenous guide David McCormack of the Angkerle Aboriginal Corporation, direct descendants of the Arrernte people. He introduced us to the apple bush tree which is great for helping those suffering from sinus and soap bush used by Indigenous people as a detergent. The oil extracted from the soap bush is also used to stun the fish found in the waterways during the wet season.

Our guide then showed us bush tobacco – a strong chewing tobacco, which is very popular among older Indigenous people but when McCormack tries to get us to taste bush coconut, a nutritious, survival food made of wasps, most of us declined, except for one of our group who said it was “delicious – both sweet and nutty”.

We ended our tour with a dot-painting lesson where McCormack taught us how to paint a boomerang with acrylic paint on wood imported not from Central Australia but from Indonesia. “It’s just too expensive to buy Australian-made wooden boomerangs,” says McCormack. Using a very thin brush, you can only paint about four dots with one dip of paint. While it seems like a long and tedious process, McCormack

Impressive art

From top: Artist at work; 2022 saw the first Aboriginal-run Desert Mob art show in Alice Springs.

explains that dot painting is often a communal activity where female Aboriginal elders sit down for hours telling dreaming stories – and completing their dot painting.

Our next stop was the towering Simpsons Gap, about 18 kilometres from Alice Springs, which features a permanent waterhole, located on the Larapinta Trail, a 231 kilometres walking track through the West MacDonnell Ranges.

Simpsons Gap was the mythological home of giant goanna ancestors and the spiritual site for several dreaming trails and stories. It is also a popular attraction for cyclists with a sealed path from Flynn’s Grave to Simpsons Gap.

One of the most picturesque camping, swimming and picnic spots in the West MacDonnell National Park is Ellery Creek, about 80 kilometres west of Alice Springs.

Thousands of years of flooding have carved out this waterhole, which is recognised as an international geological site. The Aboriginal name for Ellery Hole is Udepata which means “special meeting place” for the Aranda people on the fish and honey ant dreaming trails. This is the spot to soak up on the outback oasis where the balmy daytime temperatures and blue skies are the closest thing to a beach in Central Australia.

Spring is a perfect time to visit Alice Springs – cool mornings, warm afternoons and even cooler evenings (be sure to bring a jacket).

September is a busy month for arts and culture with both the Desert Mob art exhibition and Desert Song Festival taking place. In between art and song, there are the incredible walking trails, waterholes, national parks and the magnificent MacDonnell Ranges. How can you possibly go wrong exploring the arid heartland of Central Australia?

CT

“In between art and song, there are the incredible walking trails, waterholes and the magnificent MacDonnell Ranges.”

WORK UP AN APPETITE

Nina Caplan combines a gourmet city break in Melbourne with a hike along the spectacular new Grampians Peaks Trail to walk it off.

On my first visit to Melbourne since lockdown, I was keen to try as many new restaurants and bars as time and physiology would allow. And, because nonstop eating comes with one tiny drawback, I thought I’d tackle the new 160-kilometre-long Grampians Peaks Trail, as well – although a gourmet odyssey is hardly the ideal preparation for a 13-day hike.

Fortunately, for fair-weather walkers like me with a fondness for luxury, there are top hotels along the route, including the Royal Mail in Dunkeld, which has the biggest private cellar of burgundy and bordeaux in the Southern Hemisphere (room-only doubles from AU$225; royalmail. com.au). With their help, I thought as I tramped the Melbourne laneways on my way to my first bar, this would be my kind of outback adventure.

The Caretaker’s Cottage is a cute bluestone house among Melbourne’s shiny skyscrapers, built in 1914 to serve the church next door. Its founders bill it as a pub, but

Tastes of Melbourne

Clockwise, from above: Chef Nornie Bero of Big Esso; banh mi-flavoured pâté en croute at Aru; Gimlet bar manager Cameron Parish works his cocktail magic; the private dining room at Aru.

where I come from, pubs don’t have a trio of top bartenders pimping liqueurs. Another welcome change: at last, central Melbourne has an Indigenous restaurant. Big Esso opened last year in Federation Square. The name means “the biggest thank you” in Torres Strait Creole; chef Nornie Bero belongs to the Komet tribe of the Meriam people and grew up on the island of Mer. Her restaurant is a cheery hotchpotch of tables backlit by the Indigenous artist Aretha Brown’s monochrome mural. This is the place to try pepperberry-fried crocodile or coconut and chilli-cured kingfish (mains from AU$22; mabumabu.com.au).

Five minutes’ walk away there’s Gimlet by Andrew McConnell, the quiet hero of Melbourne’s food scene, with wood and brass fixtures and Australian wine pairings by Anthony Pieri so good that the couple at the next table interrupted their anniversary dinner to ask what we were drinking (mains from AU$44; gimlet.melbourne). I’ve never found anyone who doesn’t love McConnell’s food –the lobster roll at Supernormal is legendary – and while

Gimlet is more European in style, the flair is the same. Local duck breast is pepped up with blood plum; spanner crab is sauced with a tarragon pesto. Even the signature cocktail was the best gimlet I’ve ever tasted.

My sleek high-rise hotel, Next, in the new 80 Collins Street complex, offered a breakfast omelette with chilli salsa that could have lasted me through lunch, if that weren’t a waste of an eating opportunity (room-only doubles from AU$374; nexthotelmelbourne.com).

Afterwards, I jumped in the car and followed sundappled roads northwest for three hours, until mountains sprouted abruptly out of a tawny landscape that shelters old wine cellars and older gold mines: I’d reached the Grampians.

At Mount William Station in Willaura, the newly refurbished 19th-century homestead sits on a 3,000-hectare property that has belonged to Will Abbott’s family for four generations (B&B doubles from AU$660 for two nights; mountwilliamstation.com). The kitchen was modern but everything else looked as it once would have – if earlier inhabitants had had electricity, white goods and internet access. Beyond the windows, rolling grassland leads to the bluestone stables; inside, salons and dining rooms decked in glowing jarrah.

From here, it is 45 minutes to Halls Gap, where anyone walking without a guide should stop at the Brambuk National Park and Cultural Centre for maps and advice. The trail is remote, with patchy mobile reception and stretches scrambling over sandstone rocks or ascending steep trails; I’d recommend a guide: among the best is Braeden Hyland, of Grampians Peaks Walking Company

DINING IN VICTORIA

“Mountains sprouted abruptly out of a tawny landscape that shelters old wine cellars and older gold mines: I’d reached the Grampians.”

Not only can he tell you how the yellow-footed rock wallaby was saved from extinction, he recognises the mournful call of a yellow-tailed black cockatoo, knowing too that, for Indigenous people, it is an indication of coming rain.

The walking is glorious. I tramped through tea trees and pine gums up to the Pinnacle, 610 metres above sea level, looking out over layers of forest beneath vast blue skies. There were wildflowers and waterfalls with wonderful names: the trail threads behind the sheet of white water that is Bridal Veil Falls and along Silent Street, a path cut through the rock to form a narrow gorge, and up steep stairs from the dramatically striated rock of Grand Canyon. You’ll only avoid seeing kangaroos and wallabies by walking with your eyes shut. If you’re less keen on serious hiking, there’s Dunkeld Arboretum, where kangaroos watch you without fear before leaping unhurriedly into the brush. It is a short, flat stroll from the Royal Mail Hotel; there’s also a mile loop that passes a 400-year-old gum tree, undulating along the ground like a giant snake.

It’s easy to work up an appetite. In the tasting menus served in the restaurant facing Mount Sturgeon, Royal Mail head chef Robin Wickens is proud of using only local produce (sevencourse dinner menu, Thursday-Saturday, AU$250; royalmail. com.au). I visited the conservation area, where the hotel shields many marsupials from extinction: a rufous bettong (or rat-kangaroo) nibbled on corn; a fat-tailed dunnart munched a ball of beef mince and crushed black beetle; and, in another enclosure, the beautiful polka-dotted fur of an eastern quoll glimmered from under a log.

City and country

Clockwise, from above: The sleek and stylish Next Hotel on Little Collins Street; Gimlet’s 900g T-bone; Shearers’ Quarters at Mount William Station; not your usual butcher shop, Melbourne’s Victor Churchill.

Those who prefer can avoid walking altogether. At Stawell Airport – a grand name for a hut and a car park – Justin Neofitou of Grampians Helicopters checked our seatbelts and headphones, then took us up over the flats, the blue-grey mountains rearing in the near distance. This is a spectacular landscape whether you choose to fly the trail or land beside a vineyard – say, Best’s Wines Great Western, for a tasting and platter.

Back in the city, my second hotel was more fabulous than the first: the W Melbourne has a mirror above the pool and an underground bar, Curious, where cocktails come wreathed in whorls of dry ice (room-only doubles from AU$395; marriott. com). After hiking in the outback I felt justified going back to dinner research, seeking out the marble bar behind artisan butcher Victor Churchill for oysters and steak (mains from $39; victorchurchill.com). And I bagged a high stool at Farmer’s Daughters, where everything – the ham, the wine – comes from farms in Gippsland (set menu AU$125; farmersdaughters. com.au).

At hip Aru, dishes combining ingredients such as kangaroo jerky and warrigal greens with fragrant seasoning such as kampot pepper and furikake were so beautifully presented it was almost a shame to eat them (mains from AU$38; aru.net.au).

When I finally put down my fork and made plans to get back to Melbourne Airport, I just hoped I wouldn’t exceed my own baggage allowance in bodyweight after such a marvellous eating experience. CT

HappineOpenforss

Captain Cook Cruises

WHICH FIJI IS FOR YOU?

pristine and postcard-perfect, Fiji is an island nation made up of endless sandy beaches, spectacular coral gardens and languid lagoons. It’s where visitors are welcomed by wide smiles and, remarkably, almost everyone can sing. Its two main islands, Viti Levu and Vanua Levu, are the gateway to not only the rich Fijian culture but relaxed barefoot stays and enriching experiences suitable for all holidaymakers from amorous couples to adventurers. Its 333 islands, the result of significant volcanic activity, just beg to be explored.

Best of all, Fiji is within easy reach of Australia meaning once you hang up the out-of-o ce sign you’ll be kicking back with a cocktail while watching a blazing sunset sooner than you think.

Here are our picks for where to stay and what to do for couples, families, adventurers, cruisers, luxury bu s and eco-warriors. Wherever you choose to go and however you choose to do it, Fiji has an island (and hammock) calling your name.

Take me there Welcoming Fiji is a perennial favourite with Australians.

Fiji really does have something for everyone. Sheriden Rhodes finds what’s on o er for every type of holidaymaker.

FIJI

COUPLES

Fiery sunsets, swaying palms and languid lagoons: it’s easy to see why Fiji is one of the most romantic places on Earth. Throw in balmy weather and serenading Fijians and watch the amorous factor skyrocket.

+ Must-do Hold hands and snorkel through fish-filled waters or simple laze in a hammock swung between coconut trees. As the sun sets, be seduced by pool- or beach-side dining, sand between your toes, or enjoy an intimate candlelit dinner at the end of a jetty. On a clear night take a walk on an empty beach or stargaze from your own private pool.

World-class spas allow couples to be pampered and enjoy a relaxing time together, often to the soundtrack of lapping waves. Enjoy everything from a grass-roots Fijian Bobo massage in an open-air bure through to the mindblowing Dusk Till Dawn spa and sleep experience. Offered at the Shangri-La’s Chi, The Spa, the marathon treatment involves an overnight stay beginning with a massage and private alfresco bath under the stars and a facial the next day.

+ Stay

The choice of amorous stays is endless. Choose from the Mamanuca archipelago, a string of islands much loved by Australians where two adults-only escapes are a mere hop from the mainland. Or opt for barefoot luxury at one of Fiji’s many romantic island resorts in the Yasawas or on Taveuni, Vomo or Royal Davui. Within moments of arriving across emerald-coloured reefs, you’ll be toasting each other with cocktails, the scent of frangipani in the air.

Reminiscent of Bora Bora and the Maldives, Likuliku Lagoon Resort’s most sought-after rooms are its luxe over-water bures. Wake to dreamy views of the Pacific Ocean, swim and snorkel straight from your room and enjoy a picnic for two on Honeymoon Island. This luxury, couples-only resort, boasting Fiji’s first and only over-water bungalows, sits in a protected bay. The 45-bure resort offers 10 over-water bures that embrace indooroutdoor living. Guests wake up to superlative views of the Pacific Ocean, while glass floor panels allow viewing of

the natural aquarium beneath. Doors open to the deck and a ladder descends into the warm waters, allowing direct access for impromptu swims.

At Tokoriki Island Resort – a perennial favourite with honeymooners – couples stay in 36 contemporary bures (18 of which are beachfront pool bures), take siestas in hammocks and shower alfresco under the stars. Tropical sojourns don’t get more romantic than this.

At Royal Davui Island meanwhile, every guest is greeted by an enthusiast welcome song as they embark on their romantic island stay. This five-star, adults-only islet off Viti Levu’s Pacific Harbour and near Beqa (pronounced Ben-ga) Island is surrounded by azure waters and a spectacular fringing reef.

All but one of Royal Davui’s 16 villas are perched atop the rocky hillside, meaning no direct beach access but stunning Greek Island-esque views. All come with their own private plunge pools and are equally seductive. Some honeymoon guests reportedly spend their entire stay in their luxurious rooms, which come complete with spa baths, retractable roofs for stargazing, two decks and four-poster beds draped in mosquito nets. Dining beneath the resort’s 400-year-old Banyan tree overlooking the vivid aquamarine sea, however, is not to be missed.

Guests that do venture out are rewarded with waterfall hikes and village

visits to nearby Beqa Island, Pure Fiji spa treatments, kayaking, fish feeding and some of Fiji’s best snorkelling on Davui’s incredible fringing reef.

+ Don’t miss Play castaway with your own romantic private island experience. With 333 islands (many of them uninhabited) scattered across roughly 1.3 million square kilometres of the South Pacific, there’s an island or patch of sand with your name on it. Resorts across the archipelago –including Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort, Como Laucala Island, Vomo, Castaway Island, Six Senses Malolo and Yasawa Island Resort and Spa to name but a few – will pack you off with a decadent picnic, a bottle of wine, and snorkelling or kayak gear and deliver you to your own deserted island. What could be more romantic?

Tuck into a lunch of say lobster salad, sushi and tropical fruit, accompanied by Champagne or your choice of wine. When you’re done, simply use a two-way radio to let your “rescuers” know you’re ready to face the world again.

A royal romance

Clockwise, from above left: Sunset Plunge Pool Villa, Royal Davui; pool cocktails at Six Senses Malolo Island; Banyan Bar & Restaurant, Royal Davui; Likuliku Lagoon Resort; villa at Royal Davui.

“Within moments of arriving, you’ll be toasting each other with cocktails, the scent of frangipani in the air.”

ADVENTURERS

Beyond Fiji’s indolent resorts lies a string of little explored islands, atolls, rivers and rugged mountain interiors. From the little-known islands of the north to the country’s far south – home to the world’s third-biggest barrier reef – the ‘real Fiji’ awaits offering adventure in spades.

+ Must-do Experience shark dives in Beqa Lagoon, surf the legendary Frigates Pass, zipline through a rainforest canopy, experience white-water rafting or join an off-road cave safari where you wade by lantern light through Fiji’s largest cave system.

Snaking pristinely through volcanic gorges and shielded by lush rainforest, the Navua River offers challenging rapids (class II and III) and crashing waterfalls. Don helmet and pilot your paddle to brave the rushing whitewater, which is hemmed by forest including huge banyan trees and gigantic green palms. Be serenaded by the chorus of the rainforest during sedate pauses where the river carries you along.

Surfing in Fiji continues to gain momentum with the opening up of formerly inaccessible world-class breaks including Cloudbreak – a perfect left-hander – and the left reef break of Restaurants in the Mamanuca archipelago, formerly accessed exclusively by Tavarua Island Resort guests. An easy paddle from Fiji Hideaway Resort and Spa offers an excellent year-round right break suitable for both beginners and more experienced surfers, while Plantation and Castaway islands offer day trips to Wilkes Passage, Desperations, mini Cloudbreak, Namotu Left, Restaurants and Swimming Pools. Meanwhile, the offshore Frigates Pass, also known as the Fiji Pipeline, is a heavy left-hand barrel in Beqa Lagoon accessible to surfers staying on the Coral Coast.

Also in Beqa Lagoon, experience world-class diving in a pristine marine reserve including a renowned shark dive where you can see up to eight species of sharks.

Alternatively, challenge yourself to cross-island hikes that include swims in secret waterfalls or get down and dirty at the Sabeto Hot Spring and Mudpool.

Visitors to these geothermal hot springs just outside Nadi are covered head to toe in rich volcanic mud. After drying off in the sun, you enter a muddy pool where most of the rich brown mud is washed away, leaving your skin feeling silky-soft. Afterwards, bathe in a clear spring that is the temperature of bath water.

+ Stay

The award-winning Outrigger Fiji Beach Resort sprawls across 16 hectares with meandering paths, tall swaying palm trees, a vast lagoon swimming pool, a hilltop spa and five adults-only zones. Located on the Coral Coast, it’s within easy reach of Pacific Harbour, aka the Adventure Capital of Fiji. On offer are contemporary, air-conditioned rooms and thatched bures with vaulted masi bark-lined ceilings and luxurious double hammocks. A talai (butler) service is offered for guests staying in the 47 bures and deluxe ocean-view rooms, while the resort runs an excellent community outreach program.

Nanuku Resort and Spa is an all-villa, boutique resort with a private clubhouse that melds contemporary luxury with traditional Fijian design. Set in lush tropical gardens on the pristine waters of Beqa Lagoon, personal butlers, private nannies and tailored experiences – ranging from epicurean dining and food and medicine walks through to picnics on your own private island – are part and parcel of the Nanuku experience. Pacific Harbour lies conveniently at Nanuku’s doorstep for adventures beyond the resort.

Just off the island of Taveuni, adultsonly island getaway Matangi Private Island Resort offers 12 chic rooms and jungle treehouses, a secret cove known as Horseshoe Bay listed in 1,000 Places to Visit Before you Die, an inviting pool and a dreamy overwater spa. Go kayaking, paddle boarding or snorkelling in the pristine and secret bay. The resort is close to Fiji’s renowned dive site, the Somosomo Strait, famous for its coral Great White Wall and the Purple Wall, while on the nearby lush island of Taveuni, aptly named the “Garden Island”, you can slide down a gushing waterfall and stand on the spot where, had it not been diverted around Fiji, the International Dateline would have divided the island into separate hemispheres.

+ Don’t miss

Join a fascinating off-road cave safari with Sigatoka River Safari. Participants on this adventurous tour wade through kneedeep water by hurricane lantern through Naihehe Cave, Fiji’s largest cave system. Deep inside the 170-metre cave remains a gruesome reminder of Fiji’s cannibal past – a cannibal oven, a ritual platform and the sacred priest chamber. On Navo Island, accessible from the InterContinental Fiji Golf Resort and Spa, is another cave where women and children used to hide during tribal wars or cyclones. After exploring the cave, head to Natadola (possibly Vitu Levu’s best beach) and take a sunset ride on horses from the local village.

Ready, set, action Anti-clockwise, from main: South Sea Island, Mamanucas; go snorkelling with sharks on a South Sea Cruises’ day cruise; rainforest zipline tour; a Sigatoka River Safari; Beachfront Villa, Nanuku Resort; Outrigger Fiji Beach Resort.

FIJI

FIJI

FAMILIES

Get kids off their devices and out exploring Fiji’s string of 333 islands, both on land and underwater. It’s where everyone gets to have a holiday – parents included.

+ Must-do Fiji’s islands are a dream escape for families. Kids can collect hermit crabs, make friends in the kids’ club, build sandcastles and enjoy old-school fun where days seemingly stretch on forever.

Book an island-hopping cruise where you can swim and snorkel in tropical-fishfilled waters, visit a village and experience a different side of Fiji. You can step ashore on uninhabited Modriki Island, where the Tom Hanks movie Castaway was filmed, on a South Sea Cruises’ day trip aboard the classic schooner Seaspray. You’ll see various locations where the movie was filmed and the 83-foot schooner anchors off Modriki so passengers can go ashore to explore and snorkel.

One of the best things to do as a family is to visit a traditional village. Most hotels and resorts offer this experience. Many of the staff from your hotel or resort actually come from nearby villages. See how the local people live, where Fijian children go to school and learn about local traditions and history. You can usually buy handmade jewellery, wood carvings and other souvenirs, too.

Play Robinson Crusoe on your private island. Many resorts will pack you off with a substantial picnic along with snorkelling and kayak gear and deliver you to your own private atoll. Take a siesta in a hammock or snorkel the shallow reefs. The kids will love having the island, and you, all to themselves.

+ Stay

Many of Fiji’s resorts, ranging from relaxed barefoot properties to luxe five-star digs, offer kids’ clubs and other facilities, which are often complimentary or included in the tariff. Activities include: coral reef exploration; Fijian arts, crafts and culture; handicrafts such as necklace making, T-shirt printing or basket and coconut-leaf weaving; visits to local villages and a farmers’ market; a myriad of water-based activities; coconut

bowling; crab hunting and storytelling. It’s not uncommon for tears to be shed at the end of the week as nannies say goodbye to their charges.

As you step ashore, your feet sinking into the warm clear waters, you instantly feel at home at magical Castaway Island in the Mamanucas. The resort’s 64 stylish yet simple bures come complete with daybeds and contemporary interiors. The island offers safe, pristine swimming beaches and coral reefs ideal for snorkelling. Children adore Castaway’s kids’ club, which although little more than a room, offers heaps of fun, outdoor activities including sandcastle building, craft projects, treasure hunts and more. There are family and adults-only pools, the Sundowner Bar and award-winning feet-in-the-sand dining, a dive centre, a coral-conservation program and warm Fijian hospitality.

Fiji’s largest resort, set on 44 hectares of a private island, with a sandy beach on one side and a blue lagoon on the other, is popular with Australians for good reason. The Shangri-La Yanuca Island, Fiji offers 442 comfortable rooms while facilities, including the renowned Little Chief’s Club, and a stay-and-eat-free program (for two children under 12 years old, per room) make it terrific value. There are loads of fun activities such as golf, lawn bowls, banana-boat rides, scuba diving, crab races and snorkelling in a fish-filled lagoon. Parents love the swish all-service spa.

Be careful before booking a family holiday at Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort. Full-time nannies, candlelit dinners, the South Pacific’s most-awarded kids’ club and snorkelling or diving in worldrenowned reefs deliver a family holiday that’s forever hard to top. Parents can hand children over to specially trained nannies and staff, relax by the pool, have kids tucked in at night and stroll hand-inhand along the sand to a romantic candlelit dinner safe in the knowledge they are in the best of hands. It’s the only resort in Fiji that employs a full-time,

onsite marine biologist, Johnny Singh. Singh enthusiastically imparts Cousteau’s passion for the ocean to adults and small guests through the excellent Ambassadors of the Environment program (involving a Bula passport system), snorkelling expeditions (including night snorkels), glass-bottomboat rides and educational presentations. It’s where lifelong friends and memories are made, hence why so many families return again and again to this magical eco-friendly resort.

+ Don’t miss Channel your inner Tom Sawyer and try bilibili (bamboo) rafting as a crooning Fijian poles you downstream – the South Pacific version of a Venetian gondola. A Navua River Boat Adventure tour includes the chance to ride a traditional bilibili, while the annual bilibili race is a fun and colourful spectacle not to be missed. Alternatively, let the kids build their own bilibili raft. Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort’s terrific teens’ program sees adventurous kids build and launch their own bilibili raft.

“Kids can collect hermit crabs, make friends in the kids’ club, build sandcastles and enjoy old-school fun where days seemingly stretch on forever.”

Keeping

kids busy

Clockwise, from top left: Raft building at Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort; a Fijian holiday is about sun, sand, beautiful clear waters and making friends; Castaway Island Resort is a family favourite; Shangri-La Yanuca Island is also popular; learning to play local music.

“Play a round of golf on an 18-hole championship course in the middle of the Koro Sea or watch stress float away from a treetop yoga pavilion.”

LUXURY

A new kind of luxury is being served across Fiji’s 333 islands with experiential travel, cultural connection and giving back firmly on the menu.

+ Must-do Practise yoga in a hilltop pavilion, stay on your own private island, explore the galaxy or play a round of golf on a championship course plonked in the middle of the cerulean Koro Sea.

The South Pacific is one of the world’s best stargazing destinations and at Nanuku Resort Fiji space-themed programming includes a Celestial Concierge who leads guests through stargazing experiences using a NASAstandard Dobsonian telescope, and shares mythical Fijian folklore on the influence of the moon. You can also book an exclusive boat journey to a nearby private island to put your newfound knowledge of traditional night-sky navigation practices into use.

Play a round of golf on an 18-hole championship course in the middle of the Koro Sea at the mind-blowing Como Laucala, watch stress float away from a treetop yoga pavilion at Six Senses Fiji or dive Namana Reserve, one of the world’s top 10 dive spots, from Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort.

Kiss stress goodbye at Namale on Vanua Levu where its Valeni Sasauni Spa Sanctuary overlooks a magnificent tidal blowhole, while Qamea Resort’s awardwinning spa is found deep in the jungle of a small island off Taveuni.

+ Stay

Along with beachfront and hillside villas, Vomo Island Fiji’s new beachfront residence is the epitome of secluded luxury. Taleitaki, meaning “precious place”, is a showstopping four-bedroom holiday house where natural timbers, a 14-metre infinity pool and vistas to the Yasawa Islands offer the ultimate in luxe tropical living. It has its own private pool, a multitude of al fresco entertainment spaces, ocean vistas and direct beach access. Local Fijians can take guests fishing or trekking to the top of Mount Vomo for sweeping vistas.

Likuliku Lagoon Resort is an adults-only retreat with beachfront, garden and

overwater bures surrounded by a marine sanctuary. The beauty about the property is that architects designed the resort to pay homage to Fijian cultural values and traditional designs. Guests can snorkel, dive and surf, and there are great food and beverage options.

Kokomo Private Island Resort on the Great Astrolabe Reef offers authentic, barefoot luxury a significant step up from the “flop-and-drop” experience. Guests are afforded a window into this unique part of the world by surfing at reef breaks, fishing with the locals, waterfall walks and village visits. The resort offers a beachside grill, sunken cocktail bar, private wine cellar and 21 villas each with a private pool and alfresco shower just steps from the sand.

On a stunning crescent-shaped bay overlooking the “Blue Lagoon” and the Yasawas, which is arguably the most picturesque setting of any of Fiji’s resorts, the five-star, all-inclusive Turtle Island has 14 spacious bures, 12 private beaches, personal “bure mamas”, top-shelf liquors, wines and champagnes, and world-class fishing, diving and snorkelling. Past guests include Brooke Shields (Brooke’s Bure) and the former Fijian president (Ratu Mara Bure).

Vonu Point is Turtle’s premium bure – a traditional, two-room thatched cottage crafted by Fijian artisans, which enjoys total privacy and panoramic views of the lagoon and neighbouring Yasawa Islands. Enjoy meals in the shade of a sprawling baka tree or opt for private dinners under the stars or on a romantic, floating pontoon.

Dolphin Island, off the north of Fiji’s main island Vitu Levu, allows guests to play Robinson Crusoe – albeit in five-star

luxury. Owned by Dutch multimillionaire Alex van Heeren, who made his money from shipping and banking, the lush five-hectare private atoll is part of The Huka Retreats group, which also owns Huka Lodge in New Zealand and Grande Provence in South Africa. The private island resort offers Virginia Fisherdesigned interiors, an infinity pool, personal staff along with private tours and aquatic adventures.

The northeastern island of Qamea is predominantly covered in dense jungle, and is home to the luxury couples’ resort Qamea (reopening at the end of 2022). Just offshore Piano Reef is regarded as one of the world’s top 10 resort snorkel reefs and has beautiful hard corals.

+ Don’t miss

In the warm, pristine waters of Savusavu Bay on Vanua Levu, J Hunter Pearls is the country’s largest producer of stunning black pearls, which have inspired a cult following in Europe with their radical, naturally bred colours. Join a pearl farm tour, which includes a glass-bottom-boat ride, to learn about the company’s pearl-farming process. Afterwards, shop the striking collection of rainbow-coloured pearls in the J Hunter showroom. While the collection is sold exclusively to Gellner, a prestigious European pearl company, J Hunter Pearls also sells its own jewellery line from its showroom.

Luxe holidays to covet Clockwise, from below: Cabana at Vomo in the Mamanucas; the luxury of Como Laucala’s beach bar, golf course and villa lounge; Turtle Island Resort; overwater bures at Likuliku Lagoon Resort in the Mamanucas.

ECO-FRIENDLY

Fijian resorts lead the South Pacific’s efforts to embrace sustainability, from replacing traditional energy forms, sourcing local, organic produce and preserving customs through to the conservation of the coral reefs that make Fiji’s islands so special in the first place.

+ Must-do

Build a fish house at the Shangri-La Yanuca Island’s marine centre. To date, guests have built hundreds of fish houses which are then placed in the lagoon creating a mini reef system, which is home to fish, clams and baby cowrie shells. You can even track the progress of your fish house using GPS co-ordinates.

Wrench yourself away from the pool and wheelbarrow concrete, lay building blocks, paint, sandpaper or spend time in the classroom as part of Outrigger Fiji Beach Resort’s community project at Conua District School. The Coral Coast resort also has one of the South Pacific’s best coral gardening programs. Young corals are grown in a protected nursery till adulthood, then replanted.

Fiji Airways meanwhile has launched the new Our Ocean, Our Life Mangrove and Turtle Eco Tour, which allows travellers to plant mangrove trees and explore a turtle-breeding sanctuary. A portion of the proceeds goes to local village partners.

+ Stay

Long before sustainability and carbonneutral were a part of our vocabulary, the five-star Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort was underpinned by a steadfast commitment to the environment. Adjoining a protected marine reserve on Fiji’s second-largest island, Vanua Levu, conservation and cultural connection are key to the eco-resort’s ethos. It employs a full-time marine biologist, runs projects aimed at reef protection and giant-clam breeding, utilises flow-through ventilation rather than air-conditioning in its 25 bures, and used sustainable timber and traditional thatching in the bures’ construction. The restaurant serves produce grown in the organic garden, eco-friendly Pure Fiji amenities are used in the rooms and in the spa, while water is recycled.

South of Viti Levu, the five-star, adults-only Royal Davui Island Resort is more than a luxurious and romantic place to stay. It was the first Fijian resort to ban all single-serve plastic items. Locally grown produce is on the menu, while its treatment plant converts wastewater into usable garden water.

Vomo Island resort in the Mamanucas used border closures to build its own freshwater bottling plant and to install a cleaning system in its kitchens that turns desalinated water into cleaning products using saltwater and electricity, eradicating harsh chemicals.

Matanivusi Beach Eco Resort, on Viti Levu’s southern coast, created such an innovative waste-management and low-plastic environment that it became the world’s first registered surf ecoretreat. The resort collects all rainwater, separates all waste into compost, recyclables and waste and crushes all non-returnable bottles to use in concrete mix. All wastewater is treated so that it can then be used as a natural fertiliser for the gardens.

Luxury adults-only resort Likuliku not only boasts Fiji’s first and only overwater bungalows but strong eco credentials too. Along with eliminating single-use plastics, it has worked tirelessly to save one of the world’s rarest creatures from extinction – the Fiji crested iguana. The resort implemented programs to eradicate non-native animals and restore habitat, and also started a captivebreeding program – there are now more than 80 of the critically endangered iguana species on the island.

On Malolo Island, also in the Mamanuca Group, the game-changing Six Senses Fiji is the country’s first resort to be entirely solar powered. Offering 26 spacious and sumptuous pool villas and 60 residential villas, the resort collects rainwater, offers low energy and chemical pool filtration, has worm-based septic tanks and has its own reverse-osmosis plant and water refinery producing drinking water – meaning no plastic bottles. Local craftsmen used fallen trees for both furniture and resort construction. Cuisine is locally inspired and sustainably sourced; wine is sulphite-free and organic. Several Fijian resorts have upped the ante when it comes to cultural sustainability whereby local villages make an income out of sharing traditional customs with tourists. Maqai Beach Eco Resort on Qamea Island off Taveuni has given 10-per-cent ownership of the resort to a neighbouring village to ensure directors and managers work with local chiefs on all key decisions. Leleuvia Island Resort near Suva meanwhile works with six villages on their island to train young locals to bring back knowledge of Fijian-canoe sailing and navigation skills. The resort assisted in providing traditional camakau sailing canoes to the villages, part of its efforts to revive Fiji’s sustainable sea transport culture.

+ Don’t miss Meet a rare Fijian iguana at the 28-hectare Kula Wild Adventure Park which can be explored via elevated boardwalks rising from the valley floor to the rainforest canopy. Fiji’s centre for the captive breeding of endangered species, the park breeds two types of Fijian iguanas, colourful native birds and turtles. Be met with wide smiles and waving locals as you traverse untouched tracts along Fiji’s Coral Coast on a modified e-bike mounted on a 19th-century sugar-cane railway. Ecotrax Fiji takes tourists on a velocipede ride to the deserted Vunabua Beach where you can take a swim and sip on a coconut as a reward for all that pedalling.

Nature’s bounty

Clockwise, from above left: On Fiji Airways’ new eco tour, visit a turtle sanctuary and plant mangroves (above); the Ecotrax tour; meet native wildlife at Kula Wild Adventure Park; marine biologist Johnny Singh at Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort.

e-bike mounted on a 19th-century sugar-cane railway.”

“Be met with wide smiles and waving locals as you traverse untouched tracts on a modified

Island-hopping Clockwise, from below: Blue Lagoon Cruises’ Fiji Princess; cultural show; Sawa-i-Lau caves of Blue Lagoon movie fame; underwater magic; exploring with Blue Lagoon Cruises; the famed Fijian hospitality.

CRUISERS

Explore deserted beaches, visit local villages, share in a lovo feast (a meal cooked in an earth oven) beneath the stars and island hop your way through Fiji’s magical islands.

Cruising is back in Fiji with vessels embarking from Australian and international ports or setting sail from Fiji’s palm-fringed shores. Your shoulders cannot help but drop as you slip into the rhythm of life on board.

Many parts of Fiji are not easily accessible unless by boat. A cruise enables you to explore this string of island gems where peaks, waterfalls and jewel-coloured reefs await. You may find yourself dropping anchor for a sandbar picnic lunch, snorkelling in a marine sanctuary or kicking back on the deck (or hammock) with a good book.

+ Must-do

Enjoy an aromatic back massage aboard Blue Lagoon Cruises’ MV Fiji Princess Guests can experience a range of spa treatments using traditional Fijian methods and products.

Alternatively, book an onshore massage at Blue Lagoon Cruises’ private beach on Nanuya Lailai where spa therapists give massages in a rustic hut beneath coconut palms as waves lap the shore.

Snorkel Fiji’s crystal clear waters every day of your cruise – jumping overboard from your ship’s tender or straight from the shore. Snorkellers can expect to see manta rays, stingrays, turtles, whitetip and blacktip reef sharks, and even the Fijian Nemo (a clownfish with only one white stripe). World-class diving is also on offer from cruise ships exploring what Jacques Cousteau dubbed the “soft coral capital of the world”.

+ Cruise options Cruise through the Mamanucas and Yasawas – a cluster of stunning islands to Fiji’s far west – on a multi-day cruise with Blue Lagoon Cruises or with Captain Cook Cruises. Their onboard menu and the spectacular vistas change daily.

Blue Lagoon’s Fiji Princess shows travellers an authentic side to Fiji – far from the resort-rich areas of Denarau and the Coral Coast. It takes passengers to

small villages, local schools and even to the South Pacific’s most remote tea shop. And being a smaller boutique cruise ship means the Fiji Princess can get right up close to islands and lovely stretches of white sand beach where yours may be the only footprints. It even famously ties up to a coconut tree at its anchorage just off its private beach on Nanuya Lailai (Blue Lagoon).

Captain Cook Cruises Fiji meanwhile offers voyages of between three and 11 nights, including the week-long Remote North Discovery expedition aboard MV Reef Endeavour where you can discover islands and reefs rarely visited by tourists. Highlights include a song and dance performance by children from a local village and a visit to the World Heritage site of Levuka on the island of Ovalau.

The 11-day Fiji Islands cruise also takes passengers beyond the main tourist areas to explore small villages, hidden coves, brightly coloured coral reefs and islands not normally accessible unless by boat.

Visit the uninhabited Modriki Island where the Tom Hanks blockbuster Castaway was filmed before snorkelling the languid water of the Sacred Islands. Experience a traditional lovo feast, get up close with nesting turtles, listen to the harmonious strains of a village choir and explore the caves, reefs and lagoons of Qilaqila, renowned for its mushroomshaped islands.

P&O’s Pacific Explorer was the first vessel to return to Fiji this year, after more than a 2.5-year hiatus during border closures, with its 12-night Fiji Adventure. With the resumption of cruise ships, Carnival Australia and its sister liners have confirmed 34 port calls to Fiji between now and June 30, 2023.

Other options include sailing aboard Regent Seven Seas which stops on Fiji’s shores as part of two cruises: a 25-night Secret Isles and The Great Reef Papeete to Bali cruise and an 18-night Sydney to Papeete Secret Isles of the South Pacific.

Some of Ponant’s superlative itineraries include Fiji where highlights include diving (or learning to dive) Fiji’s incredible underwater world.

South Pacific specialist Paul Gauguin Cruises meanwhile offers sailings between Bali and Fiji or more in-depth cultural experience on 12- to 15-night cruises taking in Fiji, Tonga, the Cook Islands and the Society Islands.

+ Don’t miss Swim in the clear green water of the majestic Sawa-i-Lau caves as sunlight streams into the open-air chamber. Famously these caves are featured in the 1980 movie Blue Lagoon, where a young Brooke Shields is filmed swimming and bathing. Passengers aboard both Blue Lagoon and Captain Cook Yasawa Islands cruises can explore these magnificent limestone caves. You can even take a short swim through an underwater passage into the second of these caves, marvelling at a side of Fiji most rarely see. CT

To research your next trip to Fiji, visit Tourism Fiji at fiji.travel.

FIJI

The middle of nowhere

In the desert overlooking Israel’s Arava Valley, Six Senses Shaharut o ers undreamed of isolation and tranquillity, writes Noga Tarnopolsky.

it is di cult to overstate the remoteness of Six Senses Shaharut. At one point, three hours into my four-hour drive south from Tel Aviv, I stop for a moment to take it all in: the asphalt ribbon of road stretching as far as the eye can see in both directions, the sparsely scattered acacia trees, the desert brush, a few electrical wires slung between tall wooden posts, the occasional lark –and nothing else.

As the drive extends towards the Red Sea, you may find, as I do, that you begin shedding parts of your urban exoskeleton. The Negev desert and the Arava valley – through which the Silk Road wound its way from China to Europe, where the Nabateans built their kingdom and King Solomon mined copper – are streaked with red, green, yellow and mauve mineral deposits.

Wonderfully remote A stunning setting for Six Senses’ new Israel o ering (above); the Six Senses Shaharut Panorama Suite.

Arrival at Six Senses Shaharut demands a leap of faith: at an unmade junction in the middle of nowhere from which there are neither visible buildings nor signs, you swerve left onto a dusty road and, after a few sandy undulations, find yourself in what feels like the open mouth of a large shell on another planet.

At reception, Shaharut’s youthful, smiling hosts ply me with ice-cold hand towels, small glasses of well water drawn on site, and tiny, restorative petits fours created by the resident chef.

After checking in, I’m taken into a small antechamber to choose a seed from an assortment collected by the hotel’s gardeners. Basil? Sumac? I opt for Abraham’s balm, a pink-flowering tree. My host then produces a Nespresso capsule filled with potting soil, into which I press my seed, which is then sent off to be planted in the garden. It’s a ritual to symbolise that a part of me will remain here after I leave.

The first thing you notice at Shaharut is the purity of the air, which, in the Arava desert plateau – probably the unlikeliest location ever imagined for a high-end spa hotel – is as warm and comforting as a longed-for embrace.

Next, you begin to assimilate the silence, a thick, cushiony hush. And Six Senses has gone to extraordinary lengths to respect the desert’s topography, including illuminating its paths with tiny, downward-facing lights that do not pollute the night sky.

It took 12 years to excavate the rock face and for builders to create the slopes and hollows of a design conceived to disappear into the hilly terrain. Expert artisans from the West Bank city of Hebron used rubble left by the diggers to construct the dry-stone walls that form the resort’s protective contours.

Shaharut is laid out like a small, sand-coloured estate, with the reception at the bottom of the hill, surrounded by a date orchard, camel stables and the organic garden. The low-rise rooms and communal spaces are scattered around the complex in clusters, preserving an overarching feeling of privacy and seclusion. Nothing is very far from anything else, and walking in the breeze along the estate’s paths is relaxing, but Shaharut’s fleet of noiseless electric buggies is available for rides.

The desert has influenced the look of the bedrooms – all of which are suites, and come in varying shades of sand and

feature bedspreads handmade in Turkey by Tissum, and cushions in patterns inspired by the Yemen, Palestine, Morocco and the local Bedouins. You’ll also find a yoga mat, a Panama hat to protect you from the sun and a beautifully sanded-down pale birch walking stick to take on hikes.

Every high-ceilinged room has a desert-facing terrace, positioned for maximum discretion, so you can see all the way to where the horizon touches the sky but no one can see you. Some have plunge, or infinity, pools. Mine, a relatively modest but still spacious, split-level affair, has an immensely comfortable central bed with steps leading down to a seating area which opens out onto our terrace. There is a television loaded with all the major international channels for those who can’t do without. But it’s hidden behind a cream-coloured tapestry, hand-loomed by local artisans from the village of Shaharut.

As I sit on my terrace at nightfall, after my eyes have adjusted to the darkness, planets and constellations emerge in the sky. From one direction comes the howl of a fox. From another, a red dragonfly momentarily swoops in, landing on the table before vanishing. Amateur astronomers come here to see the stars and meteor showers from one of the least light-polluted sites on Earth. Most nights, Shaharut offers guided stargazing.

In the spring and the autumn, bird-watchers flock to the desert to view an estimated 500 million

“It took 12 years to excavate the rock face and for builders to create ... a design conceived to disappear into the hilly terrain.”

SIX SENSES SHAHARUT

Shaharut experiences

Clockwise, from main: Kibbutz tour with local guide; the Tree of Life, tea on the terrace.

An oasis in the desert Clockwise, from above left: Six Senses’ Seffi Experience Manager; the Midian restaurant; bedroom in the twobedroom pool villa.

migrating birds, from purple herons to starlings, sparrows and finches, which cross Israel on their way to Europe or back to Africa. And the hotel o ers guided birding throughout the year.

The luxury is lavish but thoughtful and never vulgar. Stone, wood, metal and glass abound. Even the rocks in the empty tracts along the paths you use to walk to dinner, or to a bar, have been arranged so that at night their angles reflect the light of the moon. The resort’s sumptuous breakfast bu et is served on a table made from the bark-wrapped stump of an ancient olive tree.

Midian, Shaharut’s largest restaurant, serves desert-goat cheeses, Red Sea fish and greens handpicked in the onsite organic garden that day. One of the simplest dishes, a fillet of beef from the herds that wander freely on the Golan Heights, was also one of the most delicious.

It is not all solitude, though. The big outdoor pool and its adjoining bar are Shaharut’s most convivial sites. There’s a nightly drinks party at the Jamila bar, where house wines produced by Yaakov Oryah, one of Israel’s premier winemakers, are liberally poured as the sun sets into what looks like a molten desert sea. Alternatively, you can sip cocktails or freshly squeezed juices while perched on a stool at the pool bar, or eat as you dangle your feet in the water or stretch out on one of the daybeds.

The vaulted indoor pool, excavated out of the rock, is one of the most meditative spaces. The hotel’s spa complex includes hammams, saunas and steam rooms and, in addition to the traditional spa menu of services, Shaharut o ers a wide range of locally inspired treatments. For a massage, in a

SIX SENSES SHAHARUT

Rocky mountain rulers

E-bike the Israel National Mountain Trail (above); aim high with desert yoga practice.

grotto-like treatment room, I opt for – and would highly recommend – the Cleopatraworthy camel-milk-and-CBD cream, made on the premises, which leaves me feeling floaty and serene.

The next day, I have a soothing facial, using Biologique Recherche products. It is as pleasing as the massage, if less rooted in the rocky soil of the desert. A resident Ayurvedic doctor o ers medical assessments and treatment plans. Yoga teachers give classes in Iyengar, pranayama and aerial yoga in a studio overlooking the valley. There’s also a well-appointed gym and a personal trainer.

At every turn, Shaharut surprises with picturesque nooks or seating by panoramic windows to give guests a place to read quietly or to contemplate their surroundings.

Shaharut’s director of sustainability, Liraz Amar, is a lawyer with a master’s in environmental studies – they take such things seriously at the Six Senses. She leads us on a sustainability tour with the hotel’s all-female herd of camels walking alongside –you are not encouraged to ride them lest the queens of the desert are turned into beasts of burden. Less romantically, though no less importantly, you can even visit the resort’s plastic-free water-bottling plant.

For most people, a visit to Shaharut is likely to be a first encounter with this remote desert. So it is for Shulamit Almog, a Haifa University professor of law, who I get chatting to at a basket-weaving workshop as we sit threading fresh palm fronds with our hands. Almog, an internationally renowned expert on gender and the law, says she is “completely enthralled”.

Shaharut means “the moment before dawn” in Hebrew and it does feel like this latest addition to the Six Senses portfolio marks a significant new day for luxury travel in Israel.

Prices start at A$1,241 per night for a Six Senses Suite, which is 58 square metres and o ers views of the desert and valley. Visit sixsenses.com/en/resorts/shaharut. CT

“This latest addition to the Six Senses portfolio marks a significant new day for luxury travel in Israel.”

Silence is golden

Crowning glory

The Aman hotel has taken over the Crown Building on 5th Avenue, Midtown Manhattan (left).

A Corner Suite living room (below).

the first thing you notice when entering the most extraordinary – and most expensive – new hotel in New York is the noise; or, rather, the lack thereof.

One minute you’re on frenetic 5th Avenue, strolling past the iconic glass Apple store and the bright lights of Bergdorf Goodman, deep in the thump and hustle of Midtown Manhattan; the next you’ve been spirited up to an airy 14thfloor atrium, where sunlight floods through grand, soundproofed French doors, a fireplace flickers at the centre of a lofty, marble-colonnaded lounge and you can almost touch the tranquillity – and with suites currently starting at US$3,000 a night, you’d want to.

We’re just two blocks south of Central Park, in what is arguably the busiest corner of the world’s busiest city, and yet there is absolutely no evidence of the human carnival streaming along those streets and pavements a few storeys below. No humming engines, no honking horns; not even a distant screaming siren.

Luxury comes in many forms. There’s the luxury of opulence, for example, or the luxury of excess. But here at the longawaited, much-hyped Aman New York, that US$3,000-plus buys you the luxury of serenity and space – both at a premium in this city.

The Aman brand – beloved of celebrities from Leonardo DiCaprio to the Kardashians – is better known for its remote, ultra-luxe tropical resorts, such as Amanpuri, on the island of Phuket, or Amanpulo, on a private atoll in the Philippines. Aman New York – which the company’s website archly describes as its “newest island destination” – is its first urban hotel in the US,

New York’s most expensive new hotel gives solace to the well-heeled at the Aman New York. But Jonathan Thompson asks: is it worth $4,700 a night?

and only its second in the world, after Tokyo (it doesn’t count Venice, apparently). It’s also a major gamble – one to the tune of a reported US$1.45 billion (AU$2.23 billion), including buying the building and adding residences.

The setting for this ambitious metropolitan sanctuary is the iconic Crown Building: a gold-accented, beaux-arts skyscraper at the corner of 5th Avenue and 57th Street, right on the edge of Billionaires’ Row. And the man chosen to marry Manhattan’s pandemonium with the quietude of Aman is the high-end hotel designer Jean-Michel Gathy, the virtuoso behind some of the world’s most impressive properties, including the St Regis Lhasa in Tibet and the Setai Miami Beach.

“Blending the fast-moving life and energy of New York with the Aman DNA requires certain tricks,” the Malaysianbased architect tells me. “One of the best ways is acoustics. Whatever element was at our disposal – types of windows, frames, panelling and layering – we used it all.”

It seems to have worked. From one of the soaring windows in my tenth-floor room (ceilings throughout the hotel are 11 feet, or 3.35 metres, high, a rarity for New York), Midtown resembles a silent movie (albeit one sponsored by Louis Vuitton and Chanel, with a cameo from Trump Tower). The soundproofing and the cloud-like bed behind me are likely to give the lie to the “City That Never Sleeps” moniker.

From here Central Park is just a few seconds’ walk, while the Museum of Modern Art is four blocks south, with the

Luxury throughout Clockwise, from above: The 14th floor Garden Terrace; Arva’s chef de cuisine, Dario Ossola; the 2,300 sq m Aman Spa; a 5th Avenue Junior Suite.

Rockefeller Center and Radio City Music Hall just beyond; continue through the Diamond and Theater districts, and you’re suddenly in Times Square – the Aman’s perch is pretty unbeatable.

If the hotel’s pricey location is ambitious, so too is its layout. All 83 rooms are suites, with the smallest a whopping 775 sq ft (72 sq m) – quite some feat in Manhattan, where 300 sq ft (28 sq m) is the norm; the smallest rooms at nearby ultra-luxe properties the Carlyle and the Ritz-Carlton are 360 sq ft (33 sq m) and 425 sq ft (39 sq m), respectively.

The suites are open-plan and uncluttered, with pivoting Japanese-style shoji screens so that guests can create privacy around the bed or the free-standing tub. In another nod to the company’s Asian roots, each room also includes a giant mural printed on rice paper and inspired by Pine Trees, a masterpiece by the 16th-century painter Hasegawa Tohaku.

Extreme pampering is at the heart of the Aman group’s ethos (its name means “peace” in Sanskrit), and this new

AMAN NEW YORK

property is no exception; an enormous spa and wellness centre is spread over three floors, centred on a 20-metre indoor pool with glass fireplaces and day beds. Even more impressive, however, are the two spa houses (essentially, spas within a spa) –each has a double treatment room, marble steam room or sauna and private alfresco terrace with plunge pool. These can only be rented by guests or Aman members who want to feel like New York royalty for the day (being actual royalty would help – membership is a cool US$200,000), but they seriously up the ante on the tired spas at neighbouring grandes dames the Mandarin Oriental, the Plaza and the Peninsula.

The food is similarly indulgent, particularly at the Italian restaurant Arva, where dishes are as cucina del raccolto rustic as Aman food ever will be. The menu is light on choice, but standouts include an exquisite tagliatelle with goat’s cheese, morel and chanterelle mushrooms, and an otherworldly beef fillet served with radicchio and Amarone sauce – and it’s surprisingly affordable, with mains from about AU$40. As with Nama, the hotel’s Japanese restaurant, Arva, will at some point open to the public.

The Italian restaurant opens onto the expansive 14th-floor garden terrace, with its dramatic firepits

“I begin to feel as though I am on an island retreat – only a vertical resort, rather than a horizontal one.”

Four more new hotels in New York

/ Moxy Lower East Side

In October 2022, Moxy Hotels, the youthful Marriott brand, opened its Lower East Side branch in a street-corner setting among the old tenement blocks on the Bowery. Between the underground nightclub and rooftop lounge, there’s space in the new-build for a Japanese restaurant and 303 rooms, which pull off an upscale look with neutral colour palettes and semi-industrial fittings.

Details: moxy-hotels.marriott. com

/ Hard Rock Hotel

It’s strange that it took until 2022 to open a Hard Rock Hotel in the home of the Velvet Underground, Kiss and the Ramones, but perhaps it was waiting for the perfect venue. Well, here you’re less than 200 metres from the lights of Times Square, on 48th St – NYC’s fondly remembered “Music Row”. The 446 rooms go from smart numbers in navy blue and dark wood to the 36th-floor penthouse Rock Star Suite.

Details: hardrockhotels.com

/ Radio Hotel

It used to be a bold choice to base yourself in Washington Heights, a half-hour subway ride from Midtown but still (just) in Manhattan. The main obstacle – a dearth of hotel options – has now been remedied with this asymmetric Lego-style tower, looking over Highbridge Park to the Harlem River. Community links show in the restaurant’s Dominican cuisine and the colours that echo local shopfronts in its loft-style rooms. Details: theradiohotel.com

/ Casa Cipriani

To the handful of hotels between Wall Street and Manhattan’s southern tip, you can now add an indulgent eccentricity. The Battery Maritime Building, a colonnaded Beaux Arts landmark from 1909 that’s still a working ferry terminal, hosts on its upper floors a 47-room hotel. With mahogany furnishings and fine Italian linen, even the rooms not facing the harbour feel like the first step on an ocean liner voyage.

Details: casacipriani.com

Cocktail hour

Clockwise from above: The Aman’s Jazz Club; Interior, the welcoming Bar Lounge; the Garden Terrace is open year-round.

that appear to dance on a series of reflective pools. Rooftop patios such as this are bona fide unicorns in Manhattan – it’s certain to be one of the most sought-after spots in town when it finally opens, on a reservation-only basis, to outside guests.

The terrace is itself a triumph of architecture, with a retractable glass roof ready to combat the vicissitudes of New York winters, while ingenious bronze lattice walls mean that diners and drinkers may gaze out towards Central Park, but those in neighbouring skyscrapers cannot see in.

Perhaps the best bit hides beneath the Crown, though. In its basement, the hotel’s slick, Prohibition-style Jazz Club – part-recording studio, part-concert venue – pays testament to Aman’s deep pockets and still-deeper ambition. During my visit, I’m treated to a show by the singer and trumpeter Brian Newman, Lady Gaga’s charismatic band leader and frequent collaborator, who will be a regular performer here.

“This is a venue built by musicians for musicians, and the sound is incredible,” Newman says afterwards over a cocktail. “You have the attributes of a grand venue like Radio City Music Hall or Jazz at Lincoln Center, but in an incredibly intimate space. It’s the best nightspot that’s opened in the city in a long time – a genuine game-changer.” The club will be open to the public, with reservations only but no cover charge.

Back among that lofty garden terrace’s bonsai trees and ornamental pools, with the sun slipping down 5th Avenue far beneath me, I begin to feel as though I am on an island retreat – only a vertical resort, rather than a horizontal one, as Gathy describes it. New York has never felt so tranquil.

And it’s a sought-after feeling in this city, hence the elite price tag. It’s easily the most expensive hotel in New York, but on an even footing with other Aman properties such as Amangiri, in the remote Utah desert. It was in 1968 that Joan Didion described New York as “a city only for the very rich and the very poor”, but that still stands today.

At more than twice the average monthly mortgage payment in the US, the nightly room rate will put this Aman out of reach for most. A ridiculous indulgence? Perhaps. But if an urban hotel such as this was going to turn up anywhere, it was either going to be Billionaire’s Row in New York City or Beverly Hills in Los Angeles – which, it turns out, is exactly what Aman plans next.

Jonathan Thompson was a guest of the Aman New York (amannewyork.com). For ideas on what to do in New York see nycgo.com. CT

AMAN NEW YORK

What you can –and can’t – get away with stealing from hotels

Arriving at a boutique London hotel recently, I heard uttered the most magical sentence in the English language: “You have been upgraded to a suite.”

Among my newly acquired perks was a complimentary mini-bar and upon checkout I duly emptied its entire contents into my bag. The artisan sourdough-flecked chocolate, little mints, herbal tea bags and Fever-Tree tonics were an obvious choice. But I couldn’t simply stop there. In too went the roast beef crisps and cranberry juice – both of which I despise – and, well, everything else.

I had slight concerns my father, who I was staying with, would judge my grabby ways but turned around to see him delicately

wrapping an already open bar of slippery soap in layers of loo roll – the notepad, pens and envelopes were already in his case.

It was a vaguely pathetic scene, but one that will be familiar to many – and it occurred to me that we were just one step away from the infamous Friends episode where Ross pilfers everything from ornamental pine cones to light bulbs and batteries from an upmarket B&B in Vermont (his overstuffed suitcase eventually bursts open in the lobby).

The character’s ethos was as follows: “You have to find the line between stealing and taking what the hotel owes you. Hair dryer, no no no, but shampoo and conditioner, yes yes yes.”

The fine line

For some, however, that line is elusive and it’s often more than the toiletries that disappear at the end of stays. Hoteliers are equal parts amused and dismayed by our collective kleptomania. Paul Bayliss, general manager of the New York-themed brand Hotel Brooklyn, which has outposts in Manchester and Leicester in the UK, suggests there is nothing guests won’t try to pinch.

There’s something about hotel stays that turns even the most honourable soul into a shampoograbbing kleptomaniac, writes Emma Beaumont

“Guests taking pens, pads and bath products is the norm, but we have also had some who have taken cushions, pictures, quilts and even mattresses and televisions,” he said.

Further afield, Bengt Mortstedt, owner of Bequia Beach Hotel in St Vincent and the Grenadines, recalls one guest checking out early and stripping their room of all bed linen, blankets, towels and pillows. In scenes worthy of a low-stakes television drama, staff managed to catch the thief, who had travelled direct from hotel to ferry terminal to make their getaway from the island, by boarding their ship just before it left the harbour.

Over the years, high-end hotels have reported a number of pricey items pilfered. A marble fireplace somehow went missing from the Four Seasons Beverly Wilshire, while in Hong Kong, a chandelier was stolen from the Shangri-La and a US$300,000 Andy Warhol artwork from the W hotel. On the other end of the scale, Travelodge has apparently seen myriad curtains and mirrors stolen.

While the motivation for taking pricey artwork is obvious, the compulsion to stuff our bags with lowvalue items is worth examining. My own take everything (within reason) approach in hotels does not translate to my regular life and I’m certainly not savvy with spending or always on the lookout for a bargain. But something happens when it’s time to check out: I must have it all, even if I don’t really want or need it – as evidenced by my attic full of flimsy hotel slippers.

The psychology Psychotherapist Noel McDermott suggests that when we take items from hotels we are looking to preserve our holiday experience. He said: “Hotel guests can’t resist taking home these amenities as they’re mostly about keepsakes for the memory. It’s a harmless fetishising of the experience.

“Investing in objects with emotional content and meaning is something that starts early. Think of a child’s special blanket, which stands in for the actual experience of being hugged. We develop this capacity to carry relationships into other things and then can project into other objects, so we take the stuff as a way of holding on to the experiences we had.”

It should be said that most of us do know where to draw the line –clearly swiping a couple of Earl Grey tea bags is not comparable to a lamp. Toiletries are usually seen as fair game, though this has become trickier now that mini plastic bottles are being phased out in favour of larger refillable receptacles.

The Artist Residence group, for example, which provides full-size bottles of Bramley bath products (with a retail price of about AU$35) in its boutique UK properties, advises guests that while they are welcome to lather up during their stay, if the shower gel is removed they will be charged. Other hotels bolt bottles onto the walls to deter light-fingered

The Lowdown

While policies vary, here is a general guide to what is acceptable to take home from hotels. Of course, though you can take these items it doesn’t mean you necessarily should, particularly given the general industry-wide push to be less wasteful. What can you take home?

- Bath products (unless otherwise specified)

- Amenity kits (such as shower caps and sewing sets)

- Coffee pods, tea bags and sugar packets

- Slippers - Notepads, stationery and postcards

- Most walking maps and unbound hotel guides

- Food or drink provided that is not listed in the minibar contents (think biscuits on tea trays, treats provided at turndown or mini condiment pots from room service, if you are so inclined)

- Clearly marked gifts from the hotel

What shouldn’t you steal?

- Bathrobes

- Towels, pillows or linen (and mattresses!)

- Cutlery, crockery or glasses

- Kettles or coffee machines

- Irons

- Non-disposable containers

- Room key ornaments

- Electronic devices

- Hairdryers

- Soft furnishings

- Artwork

visitors, which does jar slightly in higher-end establishments.

Up for debate are the likes of coat hangers, batteries (from the remote control), light bulbs and loo rolls, which are unlikely to see you charged but perhaps should lead to some thorough self-examination.

Home from home

As hotels increasingly embrace a trendy home-away-from-home aesthetic, they may see themselves more likely to become the victims of theft, as guests get a little too comfortable or fancy helping themselves to a slice of the lifestyle.

Millennial-focused Max Brown hotels, which has properties in Amsterdam, Berlin, Dusseldorf and Vienna, reveals that vinyls and record players are regularly taken from rooms, as well as funky vintage phones and kitsch salt-and-pepper shakers. In turn, guests sometimes leave behind unusual items – it reports once finding knickers in a kettle.

With larger groups now styling themselves as lifestyle brands – see the success of Soho Home, whose candles and throws are a must in the mansions of Montecito – theft might become less of a problem.

“We make it easy for those guests who want a little souvenir, by letting them know they are all up for sale (almost every item in the room), so if they take something they are actually buying it,” says Bayliss of Hotel Brooklyn. “We found this approach works as our guest losses are minimal.”

Indeed, if everything is already costed-up and accounted for, minibar-style, it makes it much easier to stymie clandestine steals. Psychologically for guests too, taking something you know can be purchased online or from a gift shop which has a definitive price tag, rather changes the action from a cheeky swipe to an outright theft.

Ultimately, if you really fancy that trinket, then the message is you’re welcome to it, but be prepared to see it show up on your bill. CT

“Taking pens, pads and bath products is the norm, but we have also had guests taking cushions, pictures, quilts and even mattresses.”

WHERE YOUR JOURNEY BEGINS

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