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KATHY LETTE: BEST OF EUROPE

The ultimate 28-page guide to your next European adventure

Why you need to plan your European holiday

Tens of thousands of Australians join millions from other nations who travel to Europe every year. It’s a perpetual favourite filled with history, culture, great food and fabulous scenery.

But things have changed since the pandemic. So good information is now more important than ever.

That’s why the team at Cruise & Travel decided to create this special guide.

Planning your trip is essential if you want to get to see all the sights that make Europe so special.

That means ensuring you have things in place – right down to the time of your museum visit.

We recently visited two of the hottest capitals in Europe – Amsterdam and Rome. The Dutch main city has just under 1 million residents but played host to 15.7 million tourists last year.

Flights, hotels and restaurants are all in high demand – and charging accordingly. Attractions are heavily booked everywhere.

Prices have shot up by as much as 23 per cent across Europe, according to the British consumer watchdog Which?, with hotels and airlines desperate to make up for their pandemic losses.

Our best tips to help beat rising prices: book early, as both hotels and airlines release rooms and seats in batches, penalising those who book at the last minute; try cities outside the capitals (our article on Page 26 can help you choose alternative destinations); and make sure you set yourself a budget before you go.

Our advice: if you don’t know Europe well, use an accredited travel agent. And enjoy a session around the dinner table planning exactly what you want to do. Don’t leave it to the last minute. You run the risk of being disappointed.

We love Europe, and had an amazing time during our visit. So enjoy this guide – and definitely book early!

Peter Lynch, Editor-in-chief

Contents

04

The best thing about Europe

Kathy Lette (pictured above) reveals her love of cruising.

08

9 amazing European getaways

Our hand-picked selection of some of the best escapes in the hottest European destinations.

12

Magical north

Visit cosmopolitan Copenhagen and the ords of Iceland with Holland America Line.

14

Twice as nice

A fly-stay-cruise option for a Mediterranean getaway travelling around incredible Italy and the Greek Islands.

16

Secret shores

Cruising to Europe’s less-visited ports, from Sète to Klaipeda, with Ponant’s luxury small ships.

19

Rivers of dreams

Our favourite European waterways and which cruise lines sail them.

22

Bon appétit

Experience Epicurean Delights in France on one of Scenic’s new River Cruise Collections.

24

Best guides on the rivers

Tauck has a 30-year track record in Europe – and it shows in its skilled guides and local tours.

26

Crowd control

Beat the crowds in our pick of the quieter European destinations.

08

the part

THE BEST THING ABOUT EUROPE

When Robert Louis Stevenson said that it is “better to travel hopefully, than to arrive” he had clearly never been stuck on a seven-lane sub-orbital ring road sign-posted in a foreign language with a car full of hungry, desperate people who are quickly starting to resemble the passengers on the raft of the Medusa.

Europe is stunningly beautifully and historically mind-blowing; the whole place haemorrhages history with a host of ghosts in every nook and cranny, but it’s also chock-a-block. Roads are choked and trains are full.

Flying around Europe is equally as stressful. Sharing one toilet with 20 nationalities with varying and sometimes idiosyncratic approaches to personal hygiene is bad enough, but there’s nothing like feeling the warm cellulite of a lecherous stranger pressing into your thigh during a turbulent take-off to make you really appreciate boating life.

Without doubt, the most enjoyable way to explore Europe and experience its wonders is by ship. Every major city in Europe is built on a river; rivers were the continent’s aquatic superhighways.

The best thing about cruising is not just the fact that you only unpack once, but you also get to leave your emotional baggage at the gangway, i.e. no arguments about map reading or why men would rather die than ask for directions (which is why they always include a woman on the space shuttle now, I think, don’t you?). Cruising means you can have endless adventures in exciting new cities, while umbilically attached to the mother ship for comfort and safety.

Picture yourself leaving Vienna, Budapest or Amsterdam in your horizontal hotel, sipping champagne on deck at dusk, marvelling at the castles and forests slipping dreamily by. After dinner, it’s dancing neath the stars (I call it the Disco Diet) till you hit the sack relaxed and contented, to awake, refreshed, docked in the next historic, UNESCO World Heritagelisted city on your itinerary. After popping ashore to look at a few ancient relics (besides each other) gaping agog at various Byzantine basilicas, golden mosaics and quaint, cobbled squares, it’s anchors away for another night of quaffing and quipping and gourmet guzzling aboard HMS Hedonism.

Dear Reader, you’re dubious, I can tell. I was too. I’d heard the horror stories about cruising. What if I was marooned at dinner with some bore and forced to become a finalist in a Fixed Smile Event? I imagined cabins so cramped even a sardine would feel claustrophobic. Would I have to go outside to change my mind?

Kathy Lette enjoys the good life on board ‘HMS Hedonism’.

Look

Clockwise, from main: Author Kathy Lette on a Rhine river cruise; the Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam.

Fearing the worst, I boarded my first-ever riverboat, in Budapest. Well, when I saw my spacious, opulent cabin, complete with an expansive balcony, I was so thrilled I had to tilt my head backwards so that my eyeballs didn’t fall out. The rapidly flowing Danube beneath my private balcony fizzed and frothed like the champagne my butler was handing to me with a welcoming smile. Yes, I said “butler”. The bloke was so cheerily attentive, he made the Waltons look depressed. When he then asked what else I’d like, I replied “I think this is the part where you peel me grapes and fan me with lotus leaves.”

The Danube neatly separates the two cities of Buda and Pest. After exploring Buda’s Rapunzel turrets and towers, basilicas and battlements, followed by the bustling boulevards of Pest, it was then onto Cologne to check out the cathedral. This masterpiece of High Gothic architecture with its filigree twin spires, the tallest in the world, dominates the city’s panorama. Drifting inside, I stood over-awed by the stained-glass lozenges of light glinting in the sun like trapped butterfly wings.

Next stop Amsterdam: a miraculous city that floats and shimmers up out of the water like a mirage. The medieval streets lined with golden-age, gabled houses, and the flower-bedecked canals and arched wrought-iron bridges, suffuse the city with an olde-world charm. After taking your fill of museums, you can refuel on pickled fish, savoury pancakes and bitterballen or munch your way through a plate of cannabis-infused Dutch delicacies called ‘space cakes” while you plan your next river trip.

My next amphibious adventure was through the romantic Rhine valley, a magical, castle-encrusted fairy-tale landscape, famed for the Lorelei legend and other folklore. We set sail from Vienna, where I took in the Schonbrunn Palace and the Spanish Riding School. The Austrian capital exudes culture from every creative cranny. Opulence, elegance, palaces, pastries, schnitzel, apfelstufel, art, music; the fin de siècle atmosphere of Vienna was right up my boulevard. I sat in a cobbled square, noshing on slabs of sacher torte and hot chocolate. When the liquid notes of Mozart spilled into the street from

a cosy café, I half expected to see a be-wigged Beethoven or even Strauss, in red frock coat and waistcoat, dashing towards the opera house.

My most recent river trip was through Bordeaux. The south of France is casually strewn with medieval citadels, grand chateaus and Roman ruins. And believe me – being photographed in front of ancient monuments makes a girl look soooo much younger!

With its imperial boulevards and buzzing cosmopolitan ambience, you can see why the World Heritage-listed city of Bordeaux is nicknamed the “little Paris”. After an exciting day exploring Bordeaux’s cobbled lanes and grand, imperial boulevards, I sashayed back on board for a dinner of lobster bisque, chateaubriand steak and crème brulée…

Ah, yes, travel broadens the mind… but also the hips. But the availability of electric bikes means guilt-free gourmandising. As our boat meandered through lush Sauternes vineyards, past Chateau Margot and Latour, I peddled along beside it. And believe me; nothing whets the appetite more than cycling through what you’re going to be drinking later.

Travelling by plane, train and car, you often feel you need a holiday to recuperate from your holiday. But river cruising is all about going with the flow. Literally. You just sit back and drink it all in – while drinking. By day expert guides steer you from museum to monument, fountain to forum, ruin to relic (a pickled piece of a saint) cathedral to catacomb. And then by night, there’s always the chance of some mouth-to-mouth resuscitation with a tautly posteriored sailor with pecs-appeal during a lifeboat drill. (Gives a new definition to “navel-gazing”.)

But whatever floats your boat, I know you’ll end your cruise as contented as a canary-fed cat. In short, when your ship comes in – make sure you’re not queueing at the airport. CT

“RIVER CRUISING IS ALL ABOUT GOING WITH THE FLOW. LITERALLY. YOU JUST SIT BACK AND DRINK IT ALL IN – WHILE DRINKING.”

Travels with friends and family

Clockwise, from opposite page: The author with Kath & Kim’s Jane Turner in Salzburg; Schloss Belvedere in Vienna; Lipizzaner stallion at the Spanish Riding School in Vienna; Kathy Lette on a bike-riding tour with her sisters while river-cruising Bordeaux.

9 AMAZING EUROPEAN GETAWAYS

Louise Goldsbury finds the hottest European escapes of 2023, from private villas to luxury hotels and amazing cruise experiences.

As the cooler weather descends on Australia, our attention has turned to Europe, which has been out of reach for many people over the past three years. Major cities are topping the charts, according to Tripadvisor’s Seasonal Travel Index, which shows Australians are looking beyond Southeast Asia for a dose of winter sun.

Instead, London has become our most researched destination in 2023, with Paris third on the wishlist and Rome seventh. Escorted small groups, luxury hotels and villas, cruises and culinary tours are all in demand, as people seek the smoothest ways to experience this everpopular continent.

Here’s our hand-picked selection of some of the best escapes in the hottest European destinations.

/ Greek villa vacations

Panoptis Escape is a stunning collection of 19 villas in Mykonos, on a hilltop overlooking the Aegean Sea. The jewel in the crown is a 21-bedroom house and 1,500 square metres of private space with 12 infinity pools, a helipad, spa suite and wellness studio, separate living rooms, an open-air bar, and indoor and outdoor kitchens with the option of a personal chef. Solo travellers, couples and families can choose one, two or three bedrooms, each with pools, deluxe amenities and personalised service from a team of chefs, butlers and concierges. Panoptis offers helicopter tours and yacht trips, such as a day tour to the neighbouring island of Delos, where a guide can lead the way to hidden beaches, ancient temples and statues around this UNESCO World Heritage site. panoptisescapemykonos.com

/ Rediscover Italy

Veer off the beaten track on a culture-rich tour led by Australian-Italian chef Valerio Fantinelli and local guide Luca Rocconi. Italy Tour Co has refreshed its short itineraries exploring the country’s art, food and history. The new tours feature experiences and locations not available to other companies, thanks to Luca’s connections. Highlights include meeting two Tuscan princesses in the gardens of their castle, which has one of Europe’s most impressive wine collections; visiting the

Ways to enjoy Europe

Clockwise, from main: On barge Spirit of Scotland with European Waterways; on a Panoptis Escape in Mykonos; on tour with Luca Rocconi of Italy Tour Co; on the Scottish Whisky Trail.

Pope’s summer-holiday hideaway; and exploring an underground medieval basilica next to the Colosseum. Guests will be taken shopping at the Campo dei Fiori market, fishing on a boat off Capri, and to a cooking class in Marlon Brando’s original Roman apartment on Tiberina Island. italytour.com.au

/ Whisky trail by barge

European Waterways operates small barges in Scotland, carrying eight to 12 people along the Caledonian Canal and Loch Ness. Whisky Trail routes visit some of the oldest Scottish distilleries – such as Benromach, Tomatin, Glen Ord, Dalwhinnie and the Cairngorms National Parks Distillery – for private tastings. Guided tours reveal the unique production processes behind single malts, as well as spectacular Highland vistas. The barges can be chartered at any time of the season (March to October) and are not subject to a supplement. europeanwaterways.com

/ Lapland in luxury

Qantas Tours has curated a 12-day winter adventure to see the Northern Lights from a glass igloo in Lapland, where you can admire the spectacle from the comfort of your bed. Hold on tight on an exhilarating husky safari ride across snow-covered terrain and frozen lakes, while spotting wild moose and reindeer in the forest. Take an optional snowmobile ride along the ice-covered Bay of Bothnia to marvel at the Arctic scenery, with a quiet break by the campfire in a Lappish hut, where hot drinks and snacks are served.

This small-group trip includes flights, a visit to the Santa Claus Village, free time in the beautiful cities of Stockholm, Helsinki and Tallinn, hotel accommodation and breakfasts. The package is also available as a private tour with a guide and driver, for an additional cost. tours.qantas.com

/ Grandeur at its finest

Regent Seven Seas Cruises’ latest luxury ship, Seven Seas Grandeur, sets sail on its maiden voyage on 18 November 2023 from Venice (Trieste) to Barcelona. Other Adriatic and Mediterranean itineraries, plus two transatlantic crossings, range from seven to 16 nights. Fares include unlimited shore excursions, gourmet cuisine, premium drinks, entertainment, internet access, valet laundry, gratuities, and transfers from hotel to ship.

The top accommodation is the Regent Suite, sprawling across 412 square metres, with its own spa, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi, two bedrooms, two marble bathrooms with designer toiletries (Guerlain, L’Occitane or Acqua di Parma), living and dining areas, and two balconies with a heated pool. The suite sleeps up to six people, and guests also receive butler service, a private car and driver in every port, a complimentary cocktail party, a dinner with the ship’s senior o cer, and a personal fitness session in the gym.

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Beat the chill

This page, from top: Husky sledding in Iceland with Qantas Tours; the new pool at the Mandarin Oriental, Lago di Camo; Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park spa lobby.

/ Advanced spa retreats

The Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, in London’s Knightsbridge, is the world’s first hotel outside Clinique La Prairie’s Swiss location to o er its Holistic Health longevity workshops and nutritional consultations. Trained nutritionists will provide bespoke health consultations to prescribe bioactive supplements for immunity, stress management, anti-inflammation, rejuvenation and cellular longevity. The new wellness

“HOLD ON TIGHT ON AN EXHILARATING HUSKY SAFARI RIDE ACROSS SNOW-COVERED TERRAIN AND FROZEN LAKES.”

o erings also include cryotherapy facials in partnership with Oskia and ‘remodelling’ facials from Biologique Recherche that use advanced massage techniques.

Meanwhile, Mandarin Oriental, Lago di Como has reopened its doors and installed one of the world’s largest infinity floating pools, a poolside cafe and a revamped spa with a Zen garden, ice pool, saline showers, Finnish sauna, steam bath and treatments using vegan products. mandarinoriental.com

/ A&K’s green thumbs

Celebrate the stunning gardens and châteaux of France, from Paris to Versailles, with Abercrombie & Kent. Devote an entire day to the International Garden Festival at Domaine de Chaumont-sur-Loire, privately tour a château with its owner and sample vintages at an organic winery on a journey for flower lovers that includes two nights in Paris. This beautiful tour for garden lovers

French press

This page, from top: See the Paris Opera with Ponant; Château du Rivau in the Loire Valley with Abercrombie & Kent.

includes a full-day tour of the International Garden Festival at Domaine de Chaumont-sur-Loire; a Champagne picnic on the grounds of Versailles, an exclusive visit with the owner of Château du Rivau; a stroll through the Jardin des Plantes in Paris, once a royal medical garden and now France’s most important botanical garden; and a master class in the art of regal floral arrangements with an award-winning florist at the Château de Chenonceau. abercrombiekent.com.au

/ Opera on the sea

The Paris Opera has partnered with Ponant for a voyage from Athens to Venice via Corfu and Dubrovnik (August 1-8, 2024) aboard the 284-passenger L’Austral. Six dancers from the ballet company, including prima ballerinas Valentine Colasante and Mathieu Ganio, will host meetings with guests, two performances and screenings of behind-the-scenes documentaries. An introductory classical ballet class is also provided onboard with a teacher from the Paris Opera. au.ponant.com

/ Ship within a ship

Norwegian Viva launches in August 2023, departing from homeports such as Lisbon, Athens, Rome and Venice. The secret is to book a suite in The Haven, NCL’s most luxurious and sizeable accommodation, with spacious balconies and personal hot tubs. Private elevators whisk guests away to this exclusive enclave, where a personal concierge and 24-hour butler will cater to your every need. Blocked o from the rest of the ship, passengers can unwind in the outdoor sauna, infinity pool and the Haven Lounge & Bar. Norwegian Viva sails around the Med until November, before moving to the Caribbean. ncl.com CT

HOLLAND AMERICA LINE

Magical north

For nearly 150 years, Holland America Line has been sailing the world’s most popular oceans and seas, taking travellers to experience the enchanting wonders of Europe, writes Teresa

From colourful, fashion-forward Copenhagen to the glacial ords of Norway, home to more ords than any other nation on Earth, premium cruise company Holland America Line (HAL) o ers magical voyages in Northern Europe.

HAL’s proud Dutch heritage is anchored in Northern Europe and founded in the City of Rotterdam – home port of its newest ship, Rotterdam. The moment you step onboard the Pinnacle Class Rotterdam (2668 guests), or sister ship Nieuw Statendam (2666 guests), you will experience a cruise like no other.

Take in the picturesque splendours of Iceland and Greenland onboard beautiful Nieuw Statendam as you cruise in the wake of the Vikings. You will explore their homelands in Norway and Scandinavia and learn how they built their homes and why they were such adept shipbuilders.

Reykjavík has long been a popular port and, in 2024, you may begin or end your cruise in this northernmost world capital. Soak in the steaming waters of the Blue Lagoon, take in the dramatic architecture of Iceland’s largest church, and delve into the award-winning interactive exhibits on Iceland’s natural forces at Perlan.

Ooi.

If you’ve always wanted to explore the ords of Iceland and remote landscapes of Greenland in a smaller, more intimate ship, then look no further than a Viking Passage or Voyage of the Vikings cruise aboard the elegant 1964-passenger Zuiderdam. Embarking from either Ijmuiden (Amsterdam) or Rotterdam and journeying to Boston, HAL’s epic sailings in 2024 range from 17 to 35 days.

HAL prides itself on developing carefully crafted journeys dedicated to enticing and satisfying the explorer spirit of travellers as well as the foodie and music lovers of the world. You’ll enjoy insider travel tips, unique shore excursions and trained guides who will take great pleasure in imparting their expert knowledge of each destination’s cultural heritage, allowing guests to have a deeper insight into the places visited.

The line’s award-winning menus and culinary programming are guided and developed by a cadre of world-class chefs who bring their collective experience, passion and creativity to the dining venues. Locally sourced ingredients reflect the cuisine of the regions in which you cruise.

The ships are spacious, sophisticated and sleek with well-thought-out spacious suites and staterooms, museum-quality art, fresh flowers gracing the public areas and, best of all, some of the finest entertainment at sea. You will be rocking and singing late into the night in the Rolling Stone Rock Room, B.B. King’s Blues Club or Billboard Onboard for a cruise to remember. CT

Northern Europe 2024 itineraries

• Holland America Line’s 7-day Taste of Norway & Scotland onboard Rotterdam will kick off in Rotterdam sailing to Scotland and Norway where you will marvel at castles, canals and the amazing blue-green fjords in Norway. Prices start from $2114 per person, interior twin share for departures in June 2024.

• The 11-day Iceland & Greenland Passage aboard Nieuw Statendam from Copenhagen to Reykjavik is an adventure-packed cruise taking in Alesund’s Art Nouveau buildings, the scenic crystalline fjords and the wild landscape of Greenland. Prices start from $3444 per person, interior twin share, departing June 29, 2024.

• The new 21-day Ultimate Viking Explorer itinerary onboard Nieuw Statendam is a round-trip voyage from Copenhagen, departing in August 2024. This relaxing voyage to view Iceland’s breathtaking fjords will leave you in awe of this majestic sight. Brace yourself for the seldomseen remote scenery of Greenland and cherish the moment when you overnight at Reykjavik. Terms and conditions apply. Fares displayed are the Cruise Only Fare. For more information visit hollandamerica.com

Cruise highlights

Clockwise from top: The natural wonders of Norway; Iceland’s Blue Lagoon thermal spa; HAL’s Billboard Bar.

THE BEST FOOD, MUSIC AND SERVICE AT SEA

Twice as nice

MY CRUISES

Combining flights, cruises and sightseeing is one of the most stress-free ways to see Europe. Tallis Boerne Marcus discovers the joy of combining all these things into the ultimate European holiday.

Some travellers feel a cruise is the ultimate way to see Europe – lounging in comfort as you wake up to the sights of new countries and cities every single day. Other holidaymakers think the best way to do Europe is to be on the ground –rising early and walking the cobbled streets. But the best way might just be a combination of the two.

A fly, stay and cruise option, the 16-night Incredible Italy and the Greek Islands package with My Cruises combines European land travel with a 10-night Mediterranean cruise on Norwegian Cruise Line’s Norwegian Epic

To start the holiday, you’ll be flown to the fashion capital of Italy, Milan, where you’ll spend three nights exploring the city’s rich cultural offerings. Don’t miss the Gothic Duomo di Milano, the Teatro alla Scala Opera House and Sforzesco Castle. You’ll also dine out on the famous Milanese cuisine which draws its influence from Italy’s northern neighbours. As a side trip, you’ll spend a day sightseeing at Lake Como. Home to exquisite waterfront homes and upscale resorts, this region has dramatic scenery with the lake contrasting splendidly with its Alpine backdrop.

The next stop on the itinerary is Rome, home to ancient ruins of the Roman Empire with iconic sights such as the Colosseum, Trevi Fountain and Vatican Museum, as well as St Peter’s Basilica. The shopping here is stupendous with high-end fashion designers’ boutiques set along the Spanish Steps.

The My Cruises itinerary includes a three-night stay with a two-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing bus tour

so you’ll be able to see the major sites in the Italian capital.

At Rome’s Port of Civitavecchia, you’ll board the cruise ship Norwegian Epic for a 10-night discovery of the picture-perfect Greek Islands and Malta, before returning to Italy. The first day spent at sea is where you can acquaint yourself with the offerings on the fabulous ship. With 16 dining options and 20 bars and lounges, as well as a plethora of entertainment, there is so much to look forward to in the evenings – after busy days spent ashore.

The cruise’s first port of call is the postcard-perfect island of Santorini. The blue-roofed houses are a striking sight as you sail into port. Hike from Fira to Oia and explore red- and black-sandy beaches, or head out to see the caldera of Santorini volcano.

Norwegian Epic sails onwards to Corfu, one of the most popular of Greece’s Ionian Islands. Known for its green scenery and Venetian-inspired architecture, Corfu is best

Pretty as a picture Clockwise, from above left: Sunset on Santorini, Greece; the Trevi Fountain (above) and St Peter’s Basilica (right), Rome; Bellagio on Lake Como, Italy.

experienced on a visit to the ancient Old Town, where you can sit and reflect on your journey over a cocktail on the plaza.

The small UNESCO World Heritage site of fortress city Valletta in Malta is the next stop on the voyage. Here, you can shop for arts and crafts on Republic Street, uncover the region’s history at Parliament House or visit the ruins of the Royal Opera House.

Back in Italy, Norwegian Epic will head to Naples, the city of the sun. The city is the gateway to the archaeological site of Pompeii where you can explore the ruins of the city that was enveloped by Mount Vesuvius. For sun and beach lovers, Capri is just a one-hour ferry ride away. It’s known for its beautiful handmade sandals and one of the most well-known Italian natural sites, the Blue Grotto.

The last stop before disembarking in Rome, is Florence, the birthplace of the Renaissance. This romantic city is home to an astounding collection of artworks, not only in galleries and museums, such as the Uffizi, but also on the streets.

Day 17 of your land-and-sea holiday will see you disembarking Norwegian Epic. You can opt to fly home directly or extend your stay. Without a doubt, My Cruises has made your next European getaway an epic adventure where you don’t have to lift a finger. CT Visit mycruises.com.au, phone 1300 924 585 or scan the QR code for more information on this package.

Incredible Italy and the Greek Islands with My Cruises

• Economy flights to Milan returning from Rome

• A three-night hotel stay in Milan

• Lake Como Tour

• Scenic rail journey

• Three nights in Rome with bus sightseeing tour

• A 10-night ocean cruise on Norwegian Epic

• All onboard dining and entertainment and gratuities

• Bonus NCL Free at Sea, which includes onboard beverages, dining, WiFi, excursion credit and more

• Priced from $5990 per person

The unexpected Clockwise, from left: Monastere Saint Lucas, Greece; Ponant sailing the French Riviera; Portree on the Isle of Skye, Scotland; polar bears on Lancaster Sound, Canada; the pool on board Le Lyrial

Secret shores

From Occitania to the Isle of Skye, it’s the less visited ports that make Ponant’s voyages so special, writes Bernadette Chua.

The small but mighty ships of Ponant’s luxurious fleet can be found gliding through the sparkling waters of the Mediterranean or the wildlife-rich regions of Northern Europe and Scandinavia. But the beauty of these ships is that they are able to reach some rarely visited unique and small ports.

And it’s these ports that serve as the gateway to your adventure with Ponant – a rich cultural immersion into Europe and a discovery of places off the beaten path. What the French luxury line does so well is carefully considered itineraries and shore excursions that highlight the best of food, art, culture, community and nature.

For instance, Ponant’s ‘Southern France and Italian Riviera by Sea – with Smithsonian Journeys’ voyage calls at the picturesque port of Sète. Referred to by the locals as the “Venice of Languedoc”, with its baroque architecture set along winding canals, the city has a thriving arts scene and is the hometown of famous artists and writers such as Paul Valéry, Jean Vilar, Georges Brassens, Hervé Di Rosa and Robert Combas. During the summer, the city becomes a friendly battleground for water-jousting competitions, an ancient pastime that is still celebrated in the hotter months.

Sète is the gateway to the nearby treasures of Occitania, including the ancient city of Nîmes, which is known as the most Roman city outside of Italy. Nîmes is home to some beautifully preserved

Roman antiquities such as its exquisite amphitheatre, which is still used for concerts and bullfights to this day.

On Ponant’s ‘Cruise the Dalmatian Coast and the Ionian Sea: Athens to Venice – with Smithsonian Journeys’, Le Lyrial courses its way from Athens to the Albanian city of Sarande. The resort town, sandwiched between the Ionian Sea and hills of olive groves, is not typically featured on cruise itineraries. But this water playground also boasts many well-preserved ancient ruins. There are some lovely walking trails to take in sights such as Lekuresi Castle, which was built by Sultan Suleiman in preparation for his attack on Corfu. And in town, Ponant’s guests will be able to explore the remains of dwellings dating back to the 4th century as well as an early Christian Basilica.

In the Scandinavian and Baltic regions, Ponant’s ships Le Dumont-d’Urville, Le Champlain and Le Bellot play home to guests on varied itineraries ranging from eight to 10 nights. One particular port of call to note is Klaipeda in Lithuania, where the old town is lined with charming German-style 18th-century woodframed buildings. Klaipeda is rich with museums, churches and bastions, but also offers charming outdoor activities. The surrounding forests are magnificent, and it is a hikers’ and cyclists’ paradise.

Further north, Ponant’s small ships visit the mystical Scottish region of the Hebrides. The green Celtic shores and the land of magic and legends are where travellers follow the seafaring path of the Vikings, but this area is also known for its wildlife. Ponant’s classic Shetland, Orkney & Hebrides voyage starts from the bustling city of Glasgow – a stark contrast to the wild rolling hills that backdrop the remainder of the voyage. Few passenger ships visit Portree in the Isle of Skye, but Ponant calls on this colourful harbour full of local craftsmen’s shops. Guests can trek through the wilderness of Skye among remnants of a rich history, from dinosaur fossils to castles. This breathtaking place also offers sightings of otters, whales, dolphins and red deer.

It’s these exciting itineraries and unique destinations offered by Ponant that give a European holiday that extra joie de vivre CT au.ponant.com

Paris to polar bears

On select Arctic itineraries, Ponant is offering guests easy access to the Arctic with return charter flights from Paris to your port of embarkation and gateways to the Arctic. New itineraries on Ponant’s luxury fleet include:

• Norway, between the Scandinavian peninsula and the High Arctic

Flying from Paris to Tromso, you’ll set sail for nine days on Le Lyrial, exploring the landscapes and fauna of the northern high latitudes. The ship heads to Reinoya Island, a twitchers’ paradise, and on to Skarsvag, where the ship leaves continental Europe to reach the Svalbard archipelago and the High Arctic. Midway between Norway’s North Cape and the southern tip of Spitsbergen, you will sail past Bjornoya (Bear Island) where seabirds have found refuge in rocky cliffs. On Spitsbergen, the landscape transforms as the vegetation has adapted to survive in these far northern lands. With millennial glaciers, spectacular fjords and the pointed mountains that gave it its name, Spitsbergen is also the land of Svalbard reindeer, Arctic foxes and walruses. From Longyearbyen, you’ll fly back to Paris. Departs May 20, 2024.

• Wilderness from Greenland to the East Coast of Canada

Flying from Paris to Kangerlussuaq in Greenland, you’ll join the all-new expedition voyage on board Le Lyrial as it cruises to the Canadian Far North to reach the coastline of Labrador. The first port of call is Sisimiut, home of brightly coloured houses facing the ocean. As the ship continues along her 15-day journey, you’ll see the Grinnell Glacier. In Zodiac dinghies or on foot, guides will lead guests as they crisscross the territory that the Inuit share with polar bears, musk oxen, seals and whales. The last part of the itinerary will open the doors to Newfoundland, which has many historic sites attesting to its Viking history and the arrival of the Europeans for the whaling trade. The journey will end on the island of Saint Pierre, a fragment of France on the other side of the world. From here your flight to Montreal is included. Departs August 25, 2024.

FROM PARIS POLAR BEARS TO

Arctic 2024 Expeditions - Your Return Flight to the Arctic from Paris included*

IN THE ICE OF THE ARCTIC FROM GREENLAND TO SVALBARD

Reykjavík to Longyearbyen - 16 nights

Departs 25 June 2024

Aboard Le Commandant Charcot

Includes transfers & flight Longyearbyen to Paris*

BAFFIN BAY SECRETS

Kangerlussuaq to Kangerlussuaq

13 nights

Departs 7 July 2024

Aboard Le Boréal

Includes transfers & return flight Paris/Kangerlussuaq*

EXPEDITION

TO THE THULE REGION

Kangerlussuaq to Kangerlussuaq

16 nights

Departs 20 July & 5 August 2024

Aboard Le Boréal

Includes transfers & return flight Paris/Kangerlussuaq*

1300 737 178 | au.ponant.com | or contact

your travel agent

*Flights booked on PONANT’s preferred airline in economy class. CC220623 and CC250624 only include a one way flight from Longyearbyen to Paris and transfer to airport for flight embarkation. BO070724, AU100823, AU250723, BO050824 and BO200724 include a return flight from Paris to Kangerlussuaq, and transfer to the airport for flight embarkation. Included transfers, flights and accommodation are subject to terms and conditions. Refer to your preferred travel agent or visit au.ponant.com for more information. Open Bar includes wine, beer, French Champagne, spirits, and non-alcoholic beverages. Premium beverages and brands available at an additional cost; Spa services on board are available at extra cost. ABN: 35 166 676 517. Photographs: Laurence Fischer; Nathalie Michel; Guillaume Sinquin; Tamar Sarkissian. ©Adobe Stock.

RIVERS OF DREAMS

History and beauty converge on Europe’s waterways. Peter Lynch picks his favourites.

Amazing sights

Clockwise, from main: Viking Mimir stopping to visit Marksburg Castle; views of Budapest.

It’s the most relaxing way to see the cities of Europe, bar none. The art of river cruising has been perfected by Europe’s operators over decades, offering a unique blend of tranquillity, cultural immersion and breathtaking landscapes. Castles, verdant countryside and enchanting villages dot the banks of these great waterways. So which cruise should you choose?

On these rivers, you’ll find another chapter of Europe’s story around each bend.

/ The Danube

The mighty Danube, often referred to as the “Queen of Europe’s rivers”, weaves its way through 10 countries, serving as a lifeline for Central Europe. Setting sail on a Danube cruise takes you on an extraordinary journey from Vienna, the enchanting capital of Austria, with its stunning imperial palaces and vibrant coffee culture, to

the beautiful cities of Budapest and Belgrade. Along the way, the captivating landscapes of the Wachau Valley and its vineyards and castles will inspire, while the timeless beauty of the Iron Gate Gorge will amaze as you enter Romania and Bulgaria. Who sails the Danube? APT, Avalon Waterways, Scenic, Tauck, Teeming, Uniworld.

Day-tripping delights

“THE SUNKISSED DOURO REGION OFFERS A PERFECT BLEND OF WINE, CULTURE AND BREATHTAKING SCENERY.”

From top: Vineyard tours on the Rhone (left) and Rhine (right); the Benedictine Melk Abbey on the Danube in Austria; the Douro Valley’s picturesque vineyards.

/ The Rhine

The legends of the Rhine flow through six countries. This river offers an exquisite blend of history and natural splendour. Fairytale castles perched on hilltops, the vineyard-clad slopes of the famed Rhine Valley, and the captivating landscapes of the Black Forest create a magical blend. The Lorelei rock produces an echo associated with the legend of a beautiful maiden who threw herself into the Rhine in despair over a faithless lover and was transformed into a siren who lured fishermen to destruction. Towns like Rüdesheim, Cologne and Strasbourg punctuate the journey with history and culture.

Who sails the Rhine? APT, Avalon Waterways, Scenic, Tauck River Cruising, Teeming, Uniworld, Viking.

/ The Douro

Portugal’s hidden gem is becoming increasingly popular. Renowned for its terraced vineyards, the sun-kissed Douro region offers a perfect blend of wine, culture and breathtaking scenery. The Douro is known as the “River of Gold” and, as you traverse the Douro Valley and its quintas (wine estates), you can sample world-class Port wines, taste traditional cuisine, and explore the towns of Porto and Pinhão. The Douro Valley’s dramatic landscapes are dotted with almond trees and olive groves. Who sails the Douro? APT, Avalon, Emerald Waterways, Scenic, Teeming, Uniworld, Viking.

/ The Seine

It’s hard to beat starting a romantic river cruise from the city of Paris – and that’s what the Seine offers. You will sail through the beating heart of France, the “City of Love”, with its iconic landmarks and vibrant nightlife. Then it’s on through the idyllic Normandy countryside, where quaint villages and picturesque landscapes inspired the works of Impressionist painters. As you make your way to the historic city of Rouen, you’ll approach the hallowed grounds of the D-Day landing beaches and the heroes of the Second World War. The Seine is the essence of French elegance and charm. Who sails the Seine? APT, Emerald Waterways, Scenic, Tauck River Cruising, Teeming, Uniworld, Viking.

/ The Elbe

A trip down the Elbe River, with its shallow waters and narrow bridges, travels between the Czech Republic and Germany. Cruises typically begin with a night in Prague or Berlin (which are not actually on the Elbe) and visit Hamburg, the Kiel Canal (which links the North Sea and the Baltic Sea), the porcelain capitals of Europe, Dresden and Meissen, and Worlitz, famous for its castles. Who sails the Elbe? Scenic, Viking.

/ The Rhône

A personal favourite, the Rhône winds its way to France via the Rhône Glacier in Switzerland and meets the Saône River at Lyon. As you travel from Lyon, the culinary capital of France, to Avignon, known as the city of Popes, you will also pass through some of the best food and wine regions of France. Think Beaujolais. Yes, there is plenty of history. And stunning lavender and sunflower fields that have inspired some of the world’s greatest

artists. But what you will remember is the food, glorious food (and wine!).

Who sails The Rhone? APT, Avalon Waterways, Scenic, Tauck River Cruises, Teeming, Uniworld, Viking.

/ The Volga

City tours

From top: Nuremberg in Germany is a popular stop; a haven on the Seine, Avalon’s Tapestry II

Russia’s grand waterway is now a little controversial thanks to the war in Ukraine. Many lines have suspended sailings until the conflict ends. But for an unparalleled exploration of Russia’s vast landscapes and rich history, the river takes a lot of beating. Mother Volga traverses the heart of the country, offering a glimpse into its diverse cultural heritage. From the imperial city of St Petersburg to the Caspian Sea, the Volga is more than 3500 kilometres long.

Who sails The Volga? Russian lines continue to offer cruises – but most international lines have suspended operations. CT

Cruise&Travel

SCENIC Bon appétit

Scenic’s

Goldsbury.

The ultimate food and wine experience will garnish the glorious rivers of France next year. Scenic’s new River Cruise Collections have made it even easier to choose the perfect cruise to match your special interest. The Epicurean Delights collection has been created for those after a gastronomic journey, carefully crafted with cooking classes led by Michelin-starred chefs, tastings in worldfamous vineyards and excursions to markets, farms and distilleries to discover the secrets of the finest French produce.

From ship to shore, Epicurean Delights itineraries in the Speculator South of France and Beautiful Bordeaux showcase produce that France is renowned for, and are features of Scenic’s 2024 recent brochure release. On the 11-day Spectacular South of France cruise, the gastronomic adventure is headlined by wine-tasting in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, regarded as the benchmark of the Côte du Rhône. Situated near the historic port of Avignon, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a charming stop to sample some of the region’s most celebrated wines.

Food adventures

Clockwise, from above: Scenic’s Epicurean Delights collection includes visits to local markets, bakeries and gourmet grocers. A Scenic Enrich event to Château d’Agassac (below right) and Scenic Sapphire in Avignon (below).

Guests can also choose to visit the restaurant of three-star Michelin Chef Georges Blanc for a cooking demonstration as part of Scenic’s Freechoice Excursion offerings, which are all included in your price.

At an olive grove near Arles, learn the techniques of olive oil production, before meeting a local in Fontvieille to hear about the lovely village lifestyle and procure some traditional Provencal recipes. Scenic’s on board chef will lead a shopping trip to a food market where guests can buy and taste the finest ingredients in the south of France, and then return to the ship for an interactive class in the Scenic Culinaire cooking school using the fresh purchases of the day to create some of France’s most popular dishes.

The 11-day Beautiful Bordeaux itinerary also includes Shop With a Chef or the option of a guided city tour. However, the hero of the region is, of course, the wine. Travel around several renowned regions, from Saint-Emilion to Sauternes. Follow the Medoc wine route comparing the remarkable reds, or cycle to a castle for tastings with an enchanting countryside view. At the 13th-century Château d’Agassac, enjoy an exclusive Scenic Enrich evening concert of classical music with an unforgettable atmosphere.

After tastings at the iconic Château Siaurac, the largest estate of the appellation in the prestigious Pomerol region, wander around the vast property’s exquisite gardens. Sail past the lush landscapes of the Garonne River, arriving in Cadillac for a special

river cruises through France offer feasts for all the senses, writes Louise

outing to the Château de Rayne Vigneau. Overlooking 75 hectares of idyllic scenery, this estate combines wine tasting and teaching traditional methods to create its superior crus. For those who like to be more active, become a picker for the day, ride through the grounds on horseback, or cycle to Château La Tour Blanche to sip its sweet, white, dessert wine.

Although synonymous with wine, Bordeaux is home to a whisky producer. At the Moon Harbour distillery, guests can taste this delicious drop. The name comes from the crescent-moon shape outlined by the river at the entrance of Bordeaux, which is featured on the city’s coat of arms.

One of the most interesting activities is meeting the most acclaimed truffle producers of the Aquitaine region, including the truffle hunter and his specially trained dog, to gain an understanding of how this rare product is found. Another foodie highlight is tasting oysters procured straight from the waters of Arcachon Bay, and served on the Scenic Space-Ship.

The culinary journey continues on board your 5-star Scenic Space-Ship, where Scenic’s chefs focus on authentic French flavours and seasonal fresh produce such as the local truffles and oysters. Accompanying lunch and dinner, fabulous wines are hand-selected from the finest regional varieties. Each meal is served by professionally trained waiters, who will explain the locally sourced ingredients of every dish while refilling your wine glass – at no extra charge.

Complimentary beverages are served on board all day – not only at mealtimes – so guests can enjoy French wines and other premium beverages in the bar or in their suite. Dining is also offered in-suite, in the ship’s fine dining restaurant, or in the more relaxed café setting.

Epicurean Delights is one of the three new collections within Scenic’s 2024 brochure release. You can also discover more river cruising experiences to inspire you in the Nature’s Wonders and Seasonal Delights collections. CT scenic.com.au

“THE CULINARY JOURNEY CONTINUES ABOARD THE SHIP, WHERE SCENIC’S CHEFS FOCUS ON AUTHENTIC FRENCH FLAVOURS AND SEASONAL FRESH PRODUCE.”

Best guides on the rivers

Specialising in unique river itineraries, small ship cruise line Tauck immerses guests in each destination with its handpicked, exclusive local excursions, writes

Tallis Boerne Marcus.

Tauck’s impressive 30-year track record in Europe has defined it as one of the region’s leading luxury river lines. Across the Rhine, Danube, Douro, Rhône, Seine, Maas and Moselle, guests can experience the best of this history- and culture-rich destination on any one of Tauck’s nine beautifully crafted riverboats. But what makes Tauck really stand out is the personal insight its staff bring to each and every voyage. The small river ship and tour company calls on its years of amassed experience across Europe to handpick knowledgeable and skilled guides. The average Tauck Director has 10 years of service, and Tauck guides come from 41 different countries and between them speak 52 different languages. This local touch allows guests to experience a closer connection to the destinations they visit.

TAUCK

Also key to enriching each cruise experience are Tauck’s exclusive events and excursions, ranging from a private cocktail reception at the Ice Palace in the Swiss Alps to an exclusive wine-tasting at the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum in Florence, or perhaps an evening of dining, live music and dance at the Palais Pallavicini in Vienna. All extras are included, from transfers and shore excursions to gratuities, entertainment, drinks and more. Whether it’s a painting workshop at the Royal Delft pottery factory or a cycling excursion along the Danube, the price is all-inclusive.

Onboard these custom-crafted riverboats, the Tauck design team has been inspired by the region’s European castles. Adorned with crystal chandeliers and velvet banquettes, the public spaces are stunning but they are also thoughtfully designed to be a home away from home. Some of the riverboats’ cabins feature floor-to-ceiling windows with French balconies that open for full views of the shoreline. There’s also 400-thread satin bed linen, Molton Brown bath products and an in-room minibar.

Onboard entertainment is provided by local dancers, singers and musicians, so each moment of your cruise will further steep you in the culture, onshore and offshore. Every detail of a Tauck cruise is crafted to send you home with a truly deep and intimate connection to the destinations you visit – beyond simple memories and photographs. CT tauck.com.au

From the Danube to the Douro Clockwise, from left: Budapest, Hungary; Durnstein, Austria; Royal Delft painting workshop; Vienna’s Palais Pallavicini, Austria; Porto, Portugal; Strahov Monastery, Austria.

3 blockbuster Tauck itineraries

• The Blue Danube

12 days, from $8440

This classic voyage takes cruisers across the romantic Central European cities of Prague, Vienna, Bratislava, Regensburg, Salzburg and Budapest. There are three Tauck Exclusive excursions, including an intimate dinner in the Palais Pallavicini in Vienna, a private tour of Prague’s Baroque libraries and an evening aperitif and sumptuous meal in Prague at the Lobkowicz Palace. Expect 12 days replete with sights of castles sitting proudly atop hills, towering Gothic cathedrals and homely riverside villages.

• The Romantic Rhine: Amsterdam to Basel

8 days, from $8250

One of the highlights of this voyage will be a dining and entertainment experience at Schloss Ehreshoven, a 15th-century German castle. The riverboat will also make calls at some of Europe’s most welcoming towns, such as Utrecht, Koln, Heidelberg, Strasbourg and Basel. From private family-style, farm-to-table dining at the Ecolut-Center to wine tasting in the Alsatian hills, guests can look forward to days packed with carefully curated experiences to showcase all the magic of the Rhine.

• Villages and Vintages: Cruising the Douro River Valley

8 days, from $7960

This roundtrip cruise from Porto in Portugal comes with two Tauck Exclusive activities, the highlight being a private dinner with wine pairings at Quinta do Portal, a renowned Douro Valley wine estate. Your other Tauck Exclusive is an expert-led workshop on making port-wine cocktails. There are additional shore excursions with plenty of wine-centred activities, as well as everything from visiting archaeological museums to cycling through medieval villages, visiting baroque castles and the region’s wine caves.

CROWD CONTROL

Tallis Marcus Boerne reveals the quieter European gems to visit.

/ Don’t go to Geneva,

go to Bohinj

While Lake Bled steals most of the travel-story headlines for Slovenia, Lake Bohinj is one of the most beautiful places on the continent. Bohinj perfectly positions you for days of detoxing from crowded European cities, as you take in the amazing surroundings while you swim, hike, kayak, cycle and relax.

/ Don’t go to Lisbon, go to Sao Miguel

A side of Europe that’s rarely seen, Portugal’s Azores Sao Miguel is a natural island paradise. With rich marine life, endless waterfalls, greenery and volcanic scenery, it’s a far cry from the concrete and cobblestones that usually comes to mind when you think of Europe.

European cities are becoming as crowded as they’ve ever been, particularly in the high season. The European Travel Commission is showing that most Europeans aren’t even planning on travelling around the continent during peak season, instead, they are opting to travel in shoulder months like April and September.

However, you can still easily find yourself in less frantic crowds, or even total seclusion by choosing alternative destinations. Here are some of the best off-the-beaten-path European cities to visit, not just to get away from the big crowds of tourists but also for different slices of culture and nature as well.

/ Don’t go to Berlin, go to Bamberg

In Germany, Bamberg is the sort of small city that will make you fall in love with Europe. The old town is straight out of a Disney movie, with every colourful corner beckoning you towards a new wafting scent or intriguing square. Whether you’re stopping by on a river cruise or have a few days to poke around, it’s hard to leave.

In a region with one of the highest density of breweries in the world, you won’t struggle to find somewhere to sample the local smoked beer, although the historic Schlenkerla brewpub is a nice start.

The big event: Bamberg hosts Sandkerwa in August, one of Germany’s biggest folk festivals.

A visit to the bright-blue Savica waterfall, a hike into the Triglav Lakes Valley in the Julian Alps and a local feast at Gostilna Mihovec restaurant are all a must. The big event: Every year Bohinj hosts the International Wild Flower Festival as the Julian Alps put on a show in May and June.

/ Don’t go to Santorini, go to Kastellorizo

It’s a bit of a journey to get to Kastellorizo, but then all the solitude and beauty of Greece’s most remote island awaits. The water is as clear as anywhere in Greece and the houses wear bright, beautiful colours.

You can visit the natural formations of the Blue Cave, devour seafood at the outdoor tavernas and check out the amazing castles and monasteries. The big event: Despite its tiny size and population, Kastellorizo hosts the International Documentary Festival each August.

You can spy humpback whales on a trip out from Ponta Delgada, see the incredible striking green of Lagoa de Santiago, soak in the natural hot springs and eat freshly picked delights at the pineapple plantations on this beautiful island.

The big event: On Sundays in April, May and June, you’ll see marches, shows and decorative ornaments as Sao Miguel holds the Holy Ghost Festival.

/ Don’t go to Paris go to Villefranche sur Mer

The kaleidoscope of colours that is Villefranche sur Mer makes for a magical town on the French Riviera. You can truly get lost in the stunning streets and amazing alleyways as you explore the photogenic city.

You’ll bite into your steak tartare at Le Trastevere, count the colours in the old town, enjoy the perfect beach day at Plage des Marinieres, venture around the medieval architecture of Eze and move onto the equally beautiful Menton.

The big event: The Crème Festival every summer lets you enjoy live music on sandy beaches while paying tribute to the Côte d’Azur. CT

Hidden gems

Clockwise, from top: Lake Bohinj, Slovenia; Villefranche sur Mer in the French Riviera; the lesser-known Greek Island of Kastellorizo; Bamberg in Bavaria, Germany.