44 BIKE MAGAZINE
HARZ MOUNTAINS
BEWITCHED IN THE HARZ MOUNTAINS Text and photos by Scot Whitlock Stunning can be an over-used adjective, its impact diluted, however this is not the case with the Harz Mountains. I was only a temporary visitor with a few days in the resort which had been organised by Germany Travel. The area oozes a dreamlike and mystical power, it is quite simply the land of German fairy tales (märchenhaft), steep-roofed houses with tiny windows and narrow, cobblestone streets, dark forests, rushing streams, grandoise mountains, and plenty of witches. The hedges, ski lifts, houses and shops all hide the gnarled faces as they watch the daily rituals of life. There is something familiar about these little towns tucked away in deep, wooded valleys. It’s no wonder the Brothers Grimm collected their inspirations from the area around Kassel about 40 miles to the west, but the Harz Mountains have long been famous as an important source of German folklore. I had endured a energy sapping early BA flight from London Heathrow to Hannover and then a collection of bus and train journeys before my arrival in Braunlage. The Harz National Park is now a vast playground dominated by outdoor pursuits whatever the season. The old traffic-free border zone has evolved into a rich wildlife reserve. Lynx have ousted witches as the national park’s emblem. Deutsche Bahn allow you to explore further than Braunlauge, there are plenty of picturesque places to stop. I had an open ticket from the train company which gave me complete freedom. I did stop briefly in Goslar but the train is without the best way to travel. In hindsight I wish I’d had enough time to explore other towns along my train route, but I was keen to get started. I was staying at the Relexa Hotel Harz-Wald (Karl-Röhrig-Straße 5a, 38700 Braunlage; +49 5520 8070) perfectly located on the outskirts of Braunlage at the foot of Mount Wurmberg, which is the second highest peak in the Harz (971m). My room was spacious, contemporary with stunning views.