The Loire Valley

Once again I found myself in the heart of the Loire Valley, unsurprising my expectations were high and this area (in and around the Loire Valley) never fails to impress with a mix of glorious surroundings dotted with picturesque villages and countless chateaus, and simple isolation. It didn’t disappoint!

The plan, there was no plan! I hadn’t been provided with an itinerary which was refreshing. I was to meet my contact Olivier Bouchereau in Angers and we would discuss then, how clandestine.

So after a 1hr flight from Gatwick to Nantes, then a taxi ride to Station, followed by a train journey to Angers. I finally alighted to the heat of Angers. I had met Olivier Bouchereau before, he hadn’t changed, noticeably his beaming smile caught my eye. Over a drink, we discussed possible routes and finally agreed on a plan. Take La Loire a Velo out of the city in the direction of Bouchemaine, before finally arriving in Béhuard, with another option of north-west towards to Terra Botanica. I liked both.

If you have time to explore and trust me you will need that time! The city is full of history, the site has been occupied for thousands of years and was a prominent Roman settlement.

Unfortunately, a large number of buildings suffered devastation at the hands of the allies, but thankfully the Chateau and Cathedral remained unscathed. The Château d’Angers is emblematic of the city, its undoubtedly a stunning structure and the promontory has been the location of fortification since IXth Century (but the present building dates back from the XIIIth Century) Throughout history the building was expanded and grew to its current

stature, the highlight and world famous attraction is the Tapestry of the Apocalypse, the World’s largest known medieval tapestry. Housed in modern surroundings, in complete contrast to the hand-stitched beauty on display, it evokes a slightly emotional reaction. The area is partially lit to protect its colours which are more pastel, the vibrancy long gone. It’s a dramatic adaptation ion of good versus evil, beautifully presented and has to be seen in person. Nowadays with technology and endless access to literature, some feel the remote experience is sufficient, I disagree, to be able to completely immerse, interact and treat your senses cannot be underestimated, especially with this exceptional work of art, so put down your iPad and get out and explore.

I also recommend a visit to the Cathedral Saint Maurice, in the sun the clarity of the light enhancing its beauty. Its interior is stunning, the only light provided by the ornate, colourful Renaissance stained glass windows. At its rear is La Place Saint Croix, the ancient heart of the city lined with a lovely array of historic buildings including the 16th Century Maison d’Adam, a merchants house believed to be the oldest in the city, its lower floor houses a contemporary boutique style shop. The upper floors contain an exquisite collection of wonderful ornate narrative carvings set amongst its splendid timber frame. They bring the building to life, if you look hard enough you will see the

cheeky figure of a man who appears to possess three testicles, a point of hilarity amongst the locals.

My base was at the perfectly located Hotel de L’Europe which consists of 29 newly renovated rooms where every detail has been designed to bring you comfort and well-being. My room was clean, comfortable and contemporary.

That evening I ate at Brasserie du Théâtre in the wide esplanade of La Place du Ralliement. The area was buzzing, the noise echoed from the fine buildings, that dominate the square. The food and service were excellent, the entrecôte was delicious. Unfortunately, I had to succumb to my bed earlier than I’d hoped.

My first adventure involved leaving Angers following the La Loire towards Bouchemaine, my destination was Béhuard with a detour to Savennières, where I was to meet a well-known vintner. As I left the city the grey skies threatened an imminent delivery, my hope was for some rain cover as I explored the river bank. Almost immediately the urban surroundings were replaced by greenery. The La Loire a Velo hugs the river in a similar vein to the Mayenne and the La Velo Francette. It’s impossible to get lost. It’s a haven for hikers, walkers and cyclists with a wealth of tidy, well-signed trails. The route was empty, no sign of life and well maintained, I halted

briefly by the Lac de Maine to dodge a brief shower, before breezing through Bouchemaine.

I stopped briefly in Savennières for a coffee before continuing the extra kilometre into Béhuard. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Béhuard is the only municipality to be an island on the Loire. About twenty kilometres south-west of Angers, the village is lined by two arms of the Loire. The “Small City of Character” as it is known has only a hundred inhabitants yearround. The Notre Dame de Béhuard, a small royal chapel perched on a rock is both, beautiful and understated.

The lives of the locals are dominated by the elements, the island floods from December to May which conditions their daily life. At the entrance to the village and on the church square you will find two slate stones on which are engraved the coasts of the great floods from 1904 to the present day, testament to the power of the River.

I wandered slowly through the narrow streets, the only noise from workmen manicuring the greenery. Olivier had told me it was special, but it was more than that. It evoked an inner peace, it was the most relaxed I had been for a while. I sat and sat, with my wonderful mindfulness session complete I headed back to Savennières.

I arrived at Château des Vaults/ Domaine du Closel wine estate. First

thing was to explore the grounds, which I did alone. The Château was built in the 17th century and rebuilt in the 19th century. The park with its current design was created around 1850. It has a long line of female winemakers, starting with Marque de Las Cases wife of Closel. His niece, Michèle Bazin de Jessey developed the vineyard. It is currently her daughter, Evelyne de Pontbriand, who runs the estate and she explained animatedly about the diverse types of soil and the terroir effect which creates the vineyards distinctive taste. You can sample their white wines, red and rosé, and fine bubbly, exposing your palette to the chenin blanc and the cabernet franc grapes.

The river is home to a wide diversity of fish, grass snakes (eekk) and plenty of frogs. Its riverbanks are popular with local fishermen attempting to land that big catch, the most common species are the sea trout, salmon, zander and the flathead mullet. There is something romantic about La Loire, it’s hard to identify or explain but it evokes a wave of inner peace and contentment. The rigours of modernity banished, only simple nature and exploration remain, it’s a wonderful phenomenon and should be experienced by everyone, regardless of age or physical condition. I was now on my way to La Pointe and lunch with Olivier.

La Pointe it a glorious sleepy domain that feels like it is at the end of the world as the La Loire and Maine rivers converge. You will be hard pressed to find a better, more loved cycle route across France and even Europe, that’s how much I enjoyed my short but hypnotic journey. Lunch consisted of locally caught fish and the noise of the river tickling the riverbank. (Café des Piplettes)

As you make your way back to the city, it’s hard not to notice the slate. The ‘Blue Gold’ of Angers is renowned worldwide for its quality, it was extracted in the slate quarries ‘officially’ as early as the 15th Century, but probably exploited since Neolithic times in and around Trelaze, however most recently there has been a significant decline in production but ardoise slate has left a legacy on the city, adorning many fine buildings. I was exposed to the colourful palette of its history as I pedalled back towards the city centre and the confines of La

Place de Ralliement, and a coffee.

Next stop Terra Botanica which a short pedal ride north-west out of the city on La Loire a Velo. Europe’s first theme park for plant life and nature (it doesn’t sound that interesting especially for the less green-fingered like me but I was and you will be surprised). It offers over 40 differing interactive attractions and plays on your senses, the aromas and seductive tranquillity are overwhelming. The highlight is a trip on the ballon, the tethered attraction allows 30 passengers to soar above the park to the dizzy heights of 150m, the panorama of the city and river basin is tremendous, definitely not to be missed.

That evening was a most memorable dinner at La Reserve, they offer seasonal and fresh products, tapas and a selection of wines. The greatest asset is the sublime rooftop location with stunning views of the beautiful chateau. I was exposed to local and creative gastronomy set in a contemporary setting. I highly recommend the steak, it was cooked to perfection.

This section of La Loire a Velo is not just a cycle trail, it’s a stunning portal into rural France, I have pedalled many of these exceptional routes throughout France but the isolation I encountered between Angers and Béhuard was astonishing. The mystical stillness was overwhelming, the river laid-back as it reluctantly meets the Maine in Angers. The river is the lifeblood of the area and conceals some beautiful, relatively untouched villages and towns, the jewel amongst many jewels was undoubtedly the gloriously sleepy Béhuard.

InformationOther attractions

If you have time I suggest you take a visit to the local market on Lafayette square. The square is dominated by the hustle and bustle of commerce, the smell and colours of fresh fruit and vegetables is hypnotic.

Jean Lurçat museum is located on the other side of the Maine river (housed in a very beautiful building, the St John’s Hospital). It was built in the XIIth Century by Henri II Plantagenet. It houses the biggest contemporary group of tapestries. the highlight is the famous tapestry The Song of the World (Le Chant du Monde), the masterpiece of the famous painter, ceramicist and tapestry creator Jean Lurçat, has hung since 1968.

Musee des Beaux Arts (in the cultural district), the modern facade belies the history within. The collection includes some fine examples of paintings, sculptures and objets d’art.

BIKE HIRE

Velo Horizon offers a short-term rental service (they are labelled Loire by bike) for visitors wishing to discover this beautiful region with hair in the wind. They provide bicycles and take care of the transfer of your luggage from Guérande to Orléans. Vélo Horizon also offers a long-term electric bike rental service (LOA).

In July and August, the tourist office runs a kind of “bike station”, just near their office in front of the castle. With a range of services for cyclists: secure racks, boxes, bike pump etc.

Getting thereAIR

Nantes Atlantique International Airport is served by a selection of UK airports and you can reach the city centre in 20 minutes with the airport shuttle (possible stops: Neustrie, SNCF train station, Le lieu unique/Cité des Congrès, Downtown/Centre ville/ Commerce).

Another possibility is the airport shuttle to Neustrie (free), then the tramway (line 3) to the city centre (Ticket Tram, also included in the Pass Nantes, available for purchase at the airport). From there you can take the SNCF to Angers.

ROAD

Like most French cities Angers can be easily accessed by motorway. The A11 connects Angers to the French capital Paris and nearby Le Mans. By car Angers lies roughly 295km west of Paris and 95km west of Le Mans.

Angers is also close to Nantes, Tours & Rennes, all of which are connected to Angers by motorway. Many of the motorways charge a toll which can vary from €2 up to €25.

TRAIN

TGV offers frequent rail-links between Angers and many of France’s major towns and cities. The trains are generally of very high quality, offer very comfortable seating and have suitable storage spaces for luggage. Trains are quite regular and generally depart on time. Ticket checks take place on every journey, as a result, it is very important that you are in possession of a valid ticket at all times. Smoking is not permitted anywhere on the train and the use of mobile phones in the seating area of the carriage is frowned upon by other passengers.

https://www.tourisme.destinationangers.com/en

http://www.atout-france.fr/