The Hidden France

It is becoming increasing true that frontiers are blurred by ever quicker travel and communications bringing us nearing than ever to our neighbours. However essential disparities thankfully do exist, disparities which tease us to explore different cultures on our annual migrations. More and more we want to be exposed to the unknown, we simply want to be amazed.

Most want to embrace the lure of the sun, sea and mass of lively resorts. Yet an increasing number of travellers find the concept suffocating and believe that it destroys the cultural integrity of an area. These independent spirits value timelessness, they resent hurry, jostling, people, traffic jams and want something different, something inspiring and uncharted.

The Creuse and the Corrèze are such places, if you take time to peruse the bookshelves on the High Street, you will find it annoyingly devoid of any reference to these great examples of ‘Hidden France’. People in the area have a strong regional culture and continue to speak the Limousin dialect, however it is more common for the oldest people to speak Limousin than the youngest. The Limousin dialect is now taught to children in some specialised schools and is ever present on signs, hopefully this will keep this heritage strong.

The Creuse is one of the original 83 departments created (from the former province of La Marche) during the French Revolution on 4 March 1790, but has kept itself under the radar for far too long. The population peaked at 287,075 in 1851, after which it declined gently until the First World War. During and after the war, the decline in population became much more rapid both because of the death and disruption that characterised the war years and because of the higher wages available to any workers with marketable skills in the economically more dynamic towns and cities outside Creuse.

Named after the Creuse River, with the Taurion, Gartempe and Petite-Creuse rivers also winding through the department and the rolling green hills of the Massif Central mountain range, Creuse is a simply beautiful area to explore. The varied landscapes are ideal for the pursuit of outdoor activities including walking and cycling routes through the countryside and nature lovers can marvel at the department’s beautiful plateaus, rocky gorges and pretty gardens far away from the busy seaside resorts of the south.

Similar to La Creuse the Corrèze is also named after the river Corrèze which runs through it. Its capital is Tulle, and its most populated town is Brive-la-Gaillarde. It too was one of the original 83 departments created during the French Revolution and includes part of the former province of Limousin (the Bas- Limousin). The 1851 census recorded a population of 320,866: this remained relatively constant for the rest of the nineteenth century. During the twentieth century, however, Corrèze shared the experience of many of the country’s rural departments as the population fell steadily.

If you are looking for high quality cycling, then please look no further! Set in the green heart of France, the varied terrain, stunning scenery and virtually traffic free roads of both provide a great location to push those pedals. One of the main attractions of the Corrèze the rolling foothills of the Massif Central, the whole experience is hypnotic, mystical and mysterious. A self-propelled visit will free you from the unrelenting pace of an over packed bus tour program.

This little known area of France provides a wide variety of cycling to discover. From climbing and descending some of the many local river gorges to more relaxing undulating routes alongside lakes, rivers and forests suitable for less experienced cyclists

In the south of the Massif Central, lovers of nature and old buildings will find their heart’s content when they explore, a peaceful and green land with countless attractions. Whether you choose to go hiking in the Millevaches Regional Natural Park, with its forests, prairies and lakes, head to the Vézère gorges for river sports, climbing and mountain biking, or enjoy a walk around the Gimel and Murel waterfalls, the Causse Corrèzien limestone plateau and the upper Dordogne Valley. The heritage is exceptional, with the Merle towers, Pompadour Castle, Aubazine Abbey, and superb medieval towns like Collonges-la-Rouge, Curemonte, Saint-Robert, Ségur-le- Château and Turenne, all five of which are listed among the most beautiful villages of France. Corrèze’s other treasure is its local cuisine made with quality produce, to be sampled liberally at the local markets

Day One

Plane, Bike & Car collection and a transfer to Faux La Montagne

FROM FAUX LA MONTAGNE TO AUBUSSON : 65 km

I set off from the lovely Faux La Montagne north on ‘La veloroute Creuse’ towards Aubusson passing the Vassiviere and Lavaud-Gelade lakes. If you are not in a great hurry, there is some much to explore and appreciate. It’s a land of green hills topped by forests and valleys with meandering rivers and streams, it will simply make you feel more alive.

The bike was a dream, surprisingly I had been let loose with a pricey lightweight racer. The Look 785 d’huez was a joy in carbon, aesthetic, responsive and durable.

The route mostly runs through countryside dotted with farming villages, the roads empty, it is ideal for exploration on two wheels. Quicker than expected I entered the small and picturesque town of Felletin, the birthplace of the Marchoise tapestry. Home to a beautiful church, Moutier originates from the 12th century. Topped by a high square bell tower with three floors, this monument is home to magnificent frescoes dating from the 15th century. The town proudly displays the wealth of its built heritage through its streets, fountains, chapels and fortifications. It’s like all fascinating old towns crammed with treasures and magnificent old buildings. The friendly unassuming attitude despite its obvious affluence is liberating.

A rather rapid 10km later and I had arrived in Aubusson, this charming town is famed for its tapestry making, due in part to the River Creuse and its unusual chemical composition that naturally fixed the pigments to the tapestries. A stroll through the town reveals unspoiled, picturesque narrow streets, large houses with theatrical turrets and fountains. Granite, an omnipresent material in the town’s architecture, gives the place undeniable charm. Few would argue with the town’s inclusion in Les 100 “Plus Beaux Detours de France”

The ‘old town’ is centred around the 17th century stone bridge over the river Creuse, the Pont de la Terrade, where the workers traditionally lived and the workshops where the rugs were produced. The town contains an abundance of medieval houses and the architectural heritage bears witness to the power of the past and the famous history of the Masons of Creuse. The faint whiff of Renaissance dominates. Most of buildings are adorned with round towers and turrets, niches, wrought iron balconies and chamfered windows, the highlight is the House of the Tapestry-maker, a magnificent 16thcentury house, dedicated to the history and the tradition of the Aubusson tapestry; the local Tapestry museum and its breathtaking exhibits (words I never thought I’d utter)

We checked into our hotel located in the sublime old quarter, Les Maisons du Pont (6 Rue Alfred Assolant, 23200 Aubusson; +33 5 55 67 72 22) is a stunning building which has been lovingly refurbished to provide contemporary décor but remaining true to its ancient heritage. Its unsurprising that the owner is an interior designer, the splashes of energetic colours and modern accessories blend perfectly with medieval ambience. dreamy « Bilbo comes to the huts of the raft elves (from the hobbit) » was unveiled in April.

Dinner was a gastronomic indulgence at Le Bistrot Gourmand ‘A la Terrade’ (6, rue Alfred Assolant, 23200, Aubusson; 05 55 67 72 22) which offers its guests informal cuisine of the highest quality, in a relaxed atmosphere. The restaurant is spread over two floors in a historic riverside building that was designed and decorated in 2016 by an interior architecture practice.

In good weather a spectacular terrace right on the edge of the water, decked in greenery and flower boxes. will accommodate 24 diners. The menu is a delight, a wonderful mix of traditional dishes using fresh seasonal ingredients with a contemporary twist.

Day TwoFROM AUBUSSON TO BOUSSAC : 85 km

The weather was glorious, possibly too glorious for a lengthy stint in the saddle (the temperature was expected to reach 31c). The undulating road to Boussac, covering 85km leaves Aubusson northwards on the La Veloroute Est which after a short while climbs gradually. The roads were quiet, the little roads are attractive through the charming villages of Saint- Domet and Lussat. My sunglasses had become essential, not only to prevent sun glare but also to protect my eyes from local insects.

Forests and fields flank the roads to étang des Landes, an ornithological reserve Classified in 2004, it occupies an area of 165,584 hectares and protects a pond and its surrounding environment. Encouragingly it shelters more than 950 animal species and nearly 500 plants. The walk around the lake takes approximately 2.5 hours and is well settled, signposted and largely level.

Even in the height of the summer, this glorious hinterland is remarkably quiet and uncrowded, with a pace of life that is far more appealing and relaxing. It was lunchtime when I arrived in Chambon-sur-Voueize, the charm filled village is situated on the boundaries of the Limousin, the Bourbonnais and the Auvergne. Not much was open, apart from the occasional bustling restaurant, it’s a great place to rest, especially by the dramatic abbey-church.

Suitably rested I pushed on towards Boussac. The heat and the climbing increased to a crescendo at Toulx Ste Croix before a speedy descent to Pierres Jaumâtres. Located just on the outskirts of Boussac, this is a magical place dominated by a collection of stone giants. So many legends linger over these enormous blocks of granite which emerge and stand in an improbable balance. Place of sacrifice? Great altar of the druids? Tables of mother goddesses or cradle of the Devil, nobody really knows. The site was a popular place for a walk by George Sand and Chopin. And it offers a panoramic view of Berry, Bourbonnais and the Boussac Valley.

I was enjoying myself immensely in the saddle, the changing views and the colours of the onset of autumn kept my concentration, it’s sad to think that most people pass through this rural idyll without ever realising how much they are missing.

Practically every village or town in the area has something of interest to offer the visitor, like an ancient church or chateau and Boussac is no exception. The Castle of Boussac (23600 Boussac-Bourg; +33 5 55 65 07 62) is famous for the ‘Dame à la Licorne’ tapestries which were discovered by the writer George Sand who often stayed at the chateau, prettily decorated in the style of the time as are all the other rooms in the castle. The owner Madame Blondeau still resides in the chateau, alone. Over time she has collected a myriad of exhibits, including canes, travelling cases, and the exemplary tapestries which are used so effectively to temper the sobriety of the stone.

She is best described as a visionary who has dedicated years to create a wonderful architectural historic site. The spirit of the building is overwhelming, it’s like stepping into a time capsule with the matriarchal Mdme Blondeau overseeing everything, she says “My Husband and I found ourselves in front of the chateau; it had neither doors nor windows. We fell in love with it and bought it. This castle, it’s my life, anything for my castle. Here, all tastes are catered for, for art, tapestry or object lovers, and for the others there are a selection of vibrant bouquets. And every year I try and add something new for my faithful clients”

The Chateau has not had a placid history, it dates from the 12th, 13th and the beginning of the 15th century and was destroyed by those pesky English. Guided tours are available, but visitors are encouraged to explore for themselves, there is plenty to see.

Our base for the evening was in Nouzerines (7km from Boussac). La Bonne Auberge (1 Rue des Lilas, 23600 Nouzerines; +33 5 55 82 01 18) is a lovely Logis establishment with a respected gastronomic restaurant but unfortunately it was closed. The six rooms are a bucolic delight, decorated with care, each have a different atmosphere and colours. We were ensured a serene nights sleep.

Whether you decide to strike out on your own or follow the path/s we have sleuthed out for you, we encourage you to simply explore and allow yourself to fully immerse in rural France at its best. In Part Two of our journey we will focus on the delights of the Corrèze.

Getting here

Plane: There are seasonal flights to Brive de Vallée de la Dordogne airport or year-round flights to Limoges airport from the UK

By train: Eurostar to Paris and then jump on the TGV to La Souterraine.

By road: Guéret is 672km from Calais.