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*Make our customers happy and have a good time doing it. B I R D’S
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Photo: Myron Maynard
CEO and MA State Senator Dan Wolf Dan.Wolf@capeair.com
Photo: Michael Valenti
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ack in Cape Air’s early days, “sophisticated technology” referred to word processors and bulky portable phones we kept in a bag. No internet, email, or texting. Look at how far we have come! But this fall, as we approach our 26th birthday, I cannot help but reflect on the fact that the more things change, the more they stay solidly the same. In 1989 when we flew our first flight between Boston’s Logan Airport and Provincetown, on the tip of Cape Cod, Massachusetts, most of us could not even imagine the “We should always strive to ensure that the world’s technology advancements that are now an ever-expanding technology does not come between our integral part of our everyday life, including Cape Air team and our customers.” — Dan Wolf circa 1989 airline travel. A few clicks and you can book yourself from Rutland, Vermont to a Paris hotel. There’s no question that the technology of online booking, baggage transfers and other aspects of our airline partnerships is vital in ensuring seamless travel and connectivity for you the passenger, but what about the one-on-one personal service that has always been the hallmark of Cape Air? I heard my answer following recent meetings at Cape Air’s Hyannis headquarters with JetBlue CEO Robin Hayes, followed by another meeting with United Airlines officials. I was thrilled to hear that positive customer interaction remains one of their top priorities. Cape Air’s CEO Dan Wolf and JetBlue’s CEO Robin Hayes We are proud to be JetBlue’s first airline partner and we also value our long time relationships with United Airlines and, in the Midwest, with American Airlines. Cape Air’s route map has grown quite a bit since that October day in 1989 when I flew our first flight but what has stayed solidly the same is our MOCHA HAGoTDI* service. To receive affirmation from our larger travel partners that first and foremost we are all in the “people business” is incredibly gratifying. I thank you for flying and wish you all a happy fall season, which for most of our Cape Air destinations is one of the best times of year to visit.
Fall 2015
Tree Limin’ Extreme in St. Thomas, USVI PUBLISHER: Dan Wolf EXECUTIVE EDITOR: Michelle Haynes Michelle.Haynes@capeair.com CONTRIBUTORS: Susan Biemsderfer, Greg Melville, Ann Murphy, Susan Zaluski COPY EDITOR: Jim Hanson DESIGN & PRODUCTION: www.ChuckAnzalone.com graphicsgroup@comcast.net © Bird’s Eye View, 2015 Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited. Advertising rates are available upon request. 410.829.1101
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Photo courtesy of Tree Limin’ Extreme Zipline
OUR TEAM: Kim Corkran Kimberly.Corkran@capeair.com
10 Nantucket
Rosemary Dooley 508.274.6755
44 Provincetown
Bobbi Fawcett doitnow141@gmail.com Nancy Woods birdseyeviewmagazine@gmail.com Bird’s Eye View is published by Cape Air, 660 Barnstable Road Hyannis, MA, 02601 Cover Photo: Cape Cod, MA by Chuck Anzalone
30 Martha’s Vineyard 56 Cape Cod 59 Boston 62 Rhode Island 70 Maine 95 Montana 96 New York 106 Vermont 108 Caribbean 5
Photo: Kim Corkran
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Michelle Haynes Executive Editor, Bird’s Eye View Michelle.Haynes@capeair.com Going for the coconut in Virgin Gorda
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Photo: Don Hebert
Enjoy!
Photo courtesy of Featherstone Center of the Arts
ishermen and those who love them—head to Martha’s Vineyard this fall for the decades-old classic fishing derby and while you are there, check out the latest island craze—ukulele jamming. The little stringed instrument has moved beyond the luau and is enjoying a surge of popularity. Check out Getting down and dirty trying to read the inscription on Altar Rock. Located in the moors of Nantucket on one of the highest points on the island, the views are well worth a fall meander. the Vineyard’s first-ever ukulele festival. Crimson and gold rule the day on nearby Nantucket, across New England and in the heart of America’s largest playground, the mighty Adirondacks. Join us for a where to go, stay and play primer, including a glide through the treetops zip line adventure, which is seeing a huge uptick in popularity across the Cape Air route map. If you are not ready to say good bye to summer sun, off-season rates are happening across the Caribbean and if you need any inducement, check out Don Hebert’s amazing photo album and start clicking for low fares and hard to resist specials on rooms. Summer crowds are gone and, unless climate change truly runs amok, no chance of a blizzard; so be it the Fall brings the first ever Martha’s Vineyard’s Ukulele Festival tropical sunshine or the autumnal show, your Cape Air chariot awaits for what is absolutely the best time of year for travel.
PHOTOGRAPHERS
“You don’t take a photograph, you make it.” — Ansel Adams
Our family of photographers certainly “make” the Bird’s Eye View a success. We can write about our spectacular Cape Air destinations but our family of loyal, dedicated and enthusiastic shutterbugs really put the music to the words. Our sincere thanks to this amazingly talented group of artists. — Michelle Haynes
Cape Air’s quirky
Kelly Thompson
viequesinsider.com Vieques
Steve Simonsen
calls this his camera repair shot.
stevesimonsen.com — U.S. Virgin Islands
Eliza Magro
Carol Latta
Tim Johnson
tjtj@capecod.ne
Cary Hazlegrove
Boston
Nantucket
hazlegrove.com
Martha’s Vineyard
Chuck Anzalone
Peter B. Brace
Nicole Friedler Brisson
Nantucket
Martha’s Vineyard
elizamagrophotography.com
ChuckAnzalone.com
walknantucket.com
Don Hebert
Steve Bart
Don Hebert Myron Maynard
Maine
USVI Cape Cod
Maine & U.S. Virgin Islands
Ann Murphy
amurphy@oneillandassociates.com
Cape Cod
nicolefriedler.com
Greg Hinson
NantucketStock.com Nantucket
amazingmaine.com Maine
Kari Curtis
karicurtis@rocketmail.com Block Island, RI
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donhebert.com
U.S. Virgin Islands
?.com frame23.com
katahdinphotogallery.com B I R D’S
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Jennifer Teeter
jenteeter@hotmail.com Vieques
Kit Noble
kitnoble.com Nantucket
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Oh, Go Take a Walk!
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Photo: Greg Hinson/Nantucketstock.com
ind your step on the cobblestones,” says tour director Katie Schoorl as we line up for our downtown walking tour of Nantucket. Happening through fall, the tour is offered by the Nantucket Historical Association and is chock-a-block full of Nantucket factoids. The tour brings to life Nantucket’s transformation from a stark and somewhat impoverished outpost to a whaling boom town to today—one of the most renowned vacation destinations in the world. The 90-minute tour happens every day at 11:15 am and may well be the best $10 you spend on Nantucket. No reservations needed and all tours meet at the Nantucket Whaling Museum. NHA.org
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Photo: Cary Hazlegrove/Nantucketstock.com
Photo: Cary Hazlegrove/Nantucketstock.com
Nantucket’s public library provides a bully pulpit for a number of superstars, past to present, including Thoreau, Emerson and former slave Frederick Douglas who made his first public speech in America to a SRO audience in this building. This beautiful Greek revival known as the Atheneum is also home to a number of artifacts brought back on whaling ships and is a must visit. As with all libraries admission is free.
HISTORICAL FACTS FROM THE NANTUCKET WALKING TOUR.
The year is 1838 and R.H. Macy (Yes from THAT Macy family) is on a whaling ship when a storm came in. Legend tells us Macy looked to the North Star which he swears guides him to safety. He had a red star tattooed on his hand and when he opened his first Macy’s in Haverhill, Massachusetts he chose the red star as his logo. Chances are you will never again look at the Macy’s logo the same way.
Standing proudly on Nantucket’s Main Street is the former counting house of the, whaling merchant William Rotch who in 1772 adorned the top of this red brick building with the names of his three ships. The Dartmouth and Beaver were raided during the Boston Tea Party and Mr. Rotch took a loss when his shipment of tea ended up in Boston Harbor. His third ship the Bedford was the first to display and carry the American flag into British waters. 12
One of the most iconic locations on the island is the Easy Street boat basin. Back in the day you would find as many as 70 whaling ships docked here along with candle factories, rope walks, tanneries, blacksmiths, and around 60 grog shops, an old time word for bar rooms.
Retired sea captains at Nantucket’s Pacific Club circa 1895
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Photo: Cary Hazlegrove/Nantucketstock.com
NANTUCKET
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CLUB CAR
One of the oldest and most popular restaurants in Nantucket and home to the only train car left from Nantucket’s railroad era. Photo: Ann Murphy
Photo: The Nantucket Historical Association Another stop on the walking tour is an inside visit to the historic Hadwen House, a Greek revival mansion built in 1845 by whaling merchant William Hadwen. According to the Nantucket Historical Association, the Hadwen House and its twin Greek Revival mansion next door were the most ostentatious private dwellings the island had ever seen.
HADWEN HOUSE
Whaling merchants and their trophy homes
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NANTUC KE T FAR M E R S AN D ARTI SAN S M AR KE T NANTUCKET
Photos: ©Barbara Clarke
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t the Saturday Farmer and Artisans Market. Everyone plying their wares is a local, offering everything from fresh fruit and vegetables to a number of Nantucket artisans with one-of-a-kind treasures including jewelry and hand woven shawls. The open air market, just off Main Street happens every Saturday through October 11th.
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N A N T U C K E T ’S C R A N B E R R Y H A R V E S T
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Photo: Greg Hinson/Nantucketstock.com
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Photos: ©Peter B. Brace
Walking the Walk in Nantucket
On the lookout for ospreys on the Gardner Farm Trail.
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hawkemo Hills, Smooth Hummocks, Stump Swamp and Sankaty Bluff —Nantucket’s most spectacular locations await you by way of the island’s newest guided hiking trail enterprise. “So many visitors drive along the roads and see the trails going off into the woods and moors but have no idea how to get there and what they may find,” says journalist Peter Brace, creator of the brand new Nantucket Walkabout-Guided Wilderness Hikes. Brace has called Nantucket home for 23 years and has put his considerable reporter instincts to good use with creative and fun hikes to some of Nantucket’s most beautiful, off the beaten path, hidden treasures.
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Photo: Chuck Anzalone
Photo: Greg Hinson/Nantucketstock.com
A sign of the season, Nantucket’s most popular photo op — the downtown planter.
The local band, Shingles gets them rocking at Nantucket’s Cranberry Festival. Photo: ©Peter B. Brace
“I hope folks take back with them a real understanding that Nantucket is a lot more than downtown shops and beaches, but is a living breathing organism with miles of conservation land full of local wildlife,” Brace added. Tours last about 90 minutes and average around $40 for adults and $20 for children. A full list of hikes is found at walknantucket.com.
Stump Swamp in late fall is devoid of bugs and a treat to explore through leaveless trees.
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Photo: Kit Noble/Nantucketstock.com
䄀渀 椀猀氀愀渀搀 琀爀愀搀椀琀椀漀渀 昀漀爀 ㌀㤀 礀攀愀爀猀 匀琀漀瀀 戀礀 昀漀爀 愀 氀漀愀昀 漀昀 瀀漀爀琀甀最甀攀猀攀 戀爀攀愀搀Ⰰ 愀 琀愀猀琀礀 搀漀渀甀琀 漀爀 漀渀攀 漀昀 漀瘀攀爀 愀 栀甀渀搀爀攀搀 昀爀攀猀栀 椀琀攀洀猀 搀愀椀氀礀⸀
㜀⼀㈀ 伀氀搀 匀漀甀琀栀 刀漀愀搀 一愀渀琀甀挀欀攀琀 䤀猀氀愀渀搀 㔀 㠀⸀㈀㈀㠀⸀㈀㜀㤀㜀
眀眀眀⸀渀愀渀琀甀挀欀攀琀戀愀欀攀猀栀漀瀀⸀挀漀洀 24
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Coskata, Nantucket
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B I R D’ S E YE VI E W PICK FOR YOUR FALL E SC A PE
NANTUCKET
Photos: Ann Murphy
A Tisket a Tasket, Make Way for the Nantucket Basket
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By Michelle Haynes
The Nantucket Basket Cottage
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Photo: Cary Hazlegrove/Nantucketstock.com
f you want your own digs for your Nantucket vacation this fall, look no further then the Nantucket Basket, a truly appropriate name for a three-bedroom cottage, minutes from both the beach and the downtown cobblestones. You will love this place that defines Nantucket charm. It comes fully furnished with TVs in all of the bedrooms, AC and an ample supply of fluffy towels, including a handy canvas beach bag in every closet with two big beach towels. Other extras include beach chairs, an outdoor shower and plenty of lounge space in the front and back making this perfect for families or a group of friends. Prices are negotiated personally with the owner but at this time of year hover around $6,500 a week. When you split that number among three couples it falls directly in the affordable range for Nantucket. Plus the island now has an amazing Stop & Shop that rivals both Trader Joe’s and Whole Foods in yummy and gourmet food selections including madeto-order sushi. With the large grill out back and a fully-equipped kitchen, you save quite a bit on restaurant prices. Check out the Nantucket Basket at nantucketinns.com and then call 508.228.9267 for availability and prices.
If you are renting your Nantucket digs this fall or in need of a to-go lunch for your hike or bike adventure OR you have a sudden craving for made-to-order sushi, get thee to Nantucket’s brand new and impressively well stocked Stop & Shop.
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Fall in Martha’s Vineyard
Slurp the oyster and raise a toast to the autumnal glow at the 8th Annual
Photo: ©Nicole Friedler Brisson
MARTHA’S VINEYARD FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL OCTOBER 15-18, 2015
Photo: ©Nicole Friedler Brisson
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Quansoo Beach, Martha’s Vineyard
ack in the day, before First Family visits and showbiz, Martha’s Vineyard’s major claim to fame was grape vines and sassafras root, the latter a hot item back in England as a cure for everything. Farming and fishing are a longtime staple of Vineyard life which is in step with today’s farm to table craze, culminating in a foodie’s dream, the Martha’s Vineyard Food & Wine Festival. Photo: Sydney Mullen
An historic fishing derby, an epic food and wine festival, a road race and, take out those ukuleles; there is no shortage of things to do on a fall getaway to Martha’s Vineyard. 30
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Bird’s Eye View favorite Jan Buhrman with Gary Stubert of Stoddard Organic Farm.
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Photo: Sydney Mullen
Photos: Martha’s Vineyard Food & Wine Festival
“What a great way to celebrate the Vineyard’s bounty,” says Nevette Previd, festival co-director. “Working with the Edgartown Board of Trade we are bringing together and celebrating the island’s shellfish farmers, fishermen, farmers and a number of other locals who make everything from soap to cheese. In addition, many of our local chefs are presenting a number of innovative menus that truly represent all the Vineyard has to offer.” Semi-crudo flounder
The list of events includes: • Crudo, Fresh Off The Boat, hosted by Michael Brisson from l’etoile and Menemsha Fish House’s Michael Holtham. • Chowder Run, with Daniel Sauer from the island’s popular eatery, 7a, serves up a tasting of chowders from original Wampanoag recipes. • Oh Shucks!, features three oyster farmers with briny bivalves, paired with eight perfect pours.
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Chef Chris Fischer during a live demonstration at the Grand Tasting.
The festival lineup also features Bird’s Eye View fave, Chef Jan Buhrman from The Kitchen Porch hosting a Green Table Pop Up with fresh oysters, farmstead cheeses and fruits and vegetables. It is a skillet take over with James Beard Award-nominated Chef Duane Nutter of One Flew South and Chef Todd Richards of White Oak Kitchen & Cocktails who will collaborate with Morning Glory Farm’s Robert Lionette for a fusion of farm-raised chickens and iconic Southern pantry favorites. Ticket prices range from a low of $45 upwards and all you need to know is at mvfoodandwine.com.
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Edgartown, Martha’s Vineyard
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Photo: ©Nicole Friedler Brisson
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M ARTHA’ S VI N E YARD
“THE DERBY”
A 70-year Martha’s Vineyard tradition September 13 – October 17, 2015 Photo: Tom Rapone
Photos: ©Nicole Friedler Brisson
Angler and local Vineyarder Brice Contessa used his flyrod to catch this 17 pound striped bass from the shore of a Martha’s Vineyard’s salt water pond and we are sworn to secrecy as to which one.
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ummer may be bidding us adieu but in Martha’s Vineyard the fishing season is just now kicking into high gear with one of the most anticipated events of the year, the annual Martha’s Vineyard Striped Bass and Bluefish Derby. Open to one and all, this 70-year tradition attracts a good number of fishermen to the island who join a regular cast of locals aiming to take advantage of the fall migration of their often elusive prey. Money raised from the derby entries goes directly to scholarships for local high school students. Last year $33,000 in scholarships went to four graduating seniors. A brilliant fall day on the water with a lot of like minded folks, maybe catch a fish and top it off with the opportunity to give a young person a financial boost for college—can all make for a pretty perfect getaway. If you need an additional incentive, off-season rates are happening at many hotels and inns. Do take advantage of our Bird’s Eye View family, The Clarion, the Harbor View and the Kelley House. Derby sign-up at mvderby.com
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Totally off limits during the summer, Lucy Vincent beach in the town of Chilmark is now open and accessible to everyone. Soft sand, sizable surf and large rock formations are pretty much all of your amenities so bring sustenance and enjoy the glory of the off- season. Yes, September is usually warm enough for swimming while October is more suited for a beach walk.
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Photos: Tim Johnson
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The ukuleles out in force at Martha’s Vineyard’s Featherstone Center for the Arts
iny Tim did it tiptoeing through the tulips while Don Ho warbled about tiny bubbles. For non-ukulele folks that pretty much sums up what we know about the little stringed instrument usually connected with Hawaii. News flash—the ukulele is in, way in; some are even calling it a ukulele cult but in a good way. “At our Wednesday night jam we are seeing as many as fifty ukulele players ranging from young kids all the way up to seniors, says Emme Brown from the Featherstone Center for the Arts in Martha’s Vineyard, who is organizing the island’s first ever Ukulele Festival. “If you play the ukulele, chances are pretty good that you love to connect with others who also play and for the festival you will get that chance along with workshops and a number of special performances featuring some of the nation’s leading ukulele superstars.” Whether you play or just love to listen, or perhaps you always had a secret yearning to learn how to strum, here’s your chance during one of the most glorious times of the year on Martha’s Vineyard. The Martha’s Vineyard Ukulele Festival is happening on Saturday, September 19th and all you need to know is at mvukefest.com.
Featherstone Center for the Arts in Oak Bluffs is a community arts center providing year-round arts programs for Vineyarders and visitors of all ages.
A musical moment in Martha’s Vineyard
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PROVINCETOWN
Photo: Gail Vasques
Photo: Dan McKeon/Courtesy of the Provincetown Business Guild
PROVINCETOWN
Like Nowhere Else — Provincetown
You get to put on a costume, run around at night and collect candy from the neighbors. As a kid what could be better? In Never Never Land (Provincetown) the tradition continues, but it’s mostly for grownups.
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Photo: Michael Valenti
By Michelle Haynes
Provincetown’s White Wind Inn gets into the Halloween spirit in a big way.
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or most of the country, okay make that everywhere else in the country, ‘the holidays’ refers to Christmas, Hanukkah or what have you, but in Provincetown on the very tip of Cape Cod, Massachusetts, the town the U.S. Census Bureau dubbed the “gayest town in America,” the most wondrous time of the year happens on October 31st. Not to stereotype (I live here) but Halloween, P’town style, is a joyous, riotous and, okay, can be even raucous, celebration. You get to wear costumes and cavort in the streets at night, rather de rigueur for this love-toparty town. but, Halloween takes the celebration to a proverbial new level. “With Halloween falling on a Saturday we expect the celebrating to last at least three days,” says Erin Atwood, the Executive Director of the Provincetown Business Guild. “A number of our clubs will present special Halloween events to go with what is really the best show in town, sitting on a bench on Commercial Street and watching a three-day parade of costumes. It will be pretty much non-stop,” Atwood added. If it sounds like fun and trust me it is, book your room right now and for last minute availability log on to Provincetownchamber.com or ptown.org and you can almost always snag something. Final note in this, open to everyone, non-judgmental haven—the Halloween celebration welcomes one and all. In other words, you do not have to be gay to enjoy. B I R D’S
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From simple to elaborate, costumes rule the night in Provincetown.
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Jazz singer Suede and comic Kate Clinton appearing Women’s Week at the Crown & Anchor onlyatthecrown.com
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By Susan Biemsderfer
Provincetown’s Women Innkeepers
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n Provincetown, Massachusetts, America’s Columbus Day is famous for something else altogether. As autumn brings blazing colors to Cape Cod’s edge, the town lights up with an international phenomenon—Women’s Week. Make way for the women. One storied week each year in “PTown,” every shop, café, restaurant, show venue, inn, taxi cab and Cessna 402 is brimming with women for seven non-stop days. “Whether you’re a first-timer or someone who’s been coming back for 30 years, there’s an undeniable surge of energy all around town during this week,” observes Lynn Mogell of Provincetown’s Women Innkeepers, creators and curators of the famed event. “We build the schedule to be as exciting as possible every year; there are always the events people know and love, and there’s always something new in the bible.” Yes, she said bible. Comedian and perennial Women’s Week performer Vickie Shaw coined the phrase during one of her shows a few years back, as overwhelming advertising support blew up the “Official Women’s Week Program” to nearly 100 pages detailing more than 150 events (true fact, there have been rogue unofficial guides, this week is that big). “Some things have definitely changed since my first Women’s Week in 1991,” notes Suzanne Westenhoefer, the first openly gay comedian to ever perform on television and a loyal Women’s Week entertainer. “We’re a long way from the time Provincetown was the only place many women felt they could temporarily be out before B I R D’S
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going back to their jobs, their families, and other parts of their lives. Now there’s everything imaginable on the schedule—and at the same time, there’s still that feeling of women taking over the town and the town loving it.” So have a laugh with some of the wittiest lesbian comics on earth. Or take in one of the workshops on topics ranging from DIY to FYI on life-changing matters. Perhaps you should step up to the golf tourney, the drag king contest, or get on that dance floor—especially at the closing-night bash. And bookmark your bible for the flag football tournament overseen by comedian Kate Clinton, as well as the must-go Community Dinner. And don’t miss all the musicians and vocalists uplifting crowds by the sea. Or go ahead, have a laugh-and-or-cry at the movies, where you’ll find films just right for the Women’s Week crowd. FALL
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And don’t forget the annual clambake and bonfire: that’s how it all started, after all. In the mid-80s when the Women Innkeepers were trying to think of ways to draw women back to Provincetown beyond the traditional summer season, they decided to have a clambake on the beach in October and invited their summer guests. It grew from an idea to a weekend, from a weekend to a week, from 200 women to as many as 5,000. “Part of what’s touching about Women’s Week is that it’s really not just about the women, it’s about the town supporting them,” points out Mogell. “If you look at the program, those ads are from individuals and businesses that are dedicated to the event and what we’re doing, and to creating an experience in Provincetown that will stay with these women for years.” “So it hasn’t just worked, I think it’s worked in a way you could only see in Provincetown—because it’s always been this place that embraces people, whoever they are,” says Westenhoefer. “Even though we’re making giant leaps around all kinds of bigotry across the country, there’s still a lot of work to be done, but not in Provincetown. Once you get on the little plane, you know you’re going to the place where you can be anybody—Women’s Week, any week.” Amen to that. Womensweekprovincetown.com
Our Women’s Week writer —Susan Biemsderfer
Susan’s first love is writing, but a close second has always been the sea. She started out as a television news reporter and after a couple of public policy stints, found her way back to writing, with a soft spot for an untold story. She is headquartered in Provincetown, Massachusetts, at a cottage close to the sea and is celebrating her 20th Women’s Week. 49
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Photos courtesy of the Women Innkeepers
Photo: Lynette Molnar
AUTUMN REVISITED: WOMEN’S WEEK
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t’s 5:31 and the music begins, a symphony of corks popping, red, white, and rosé flowing, and ice against stemware. The air off of Provincetown Harbor swims around guests finding their seats. The bar fills up, the Adirondack chair-lovers make their way to the porch, and the evening’s first round of diners are lingering over menus. The staff floats about, keeping glasses more than half-full. And if you’re here, you’ve made it to the sweet spot at the very west end of Provincetown, Massachusetts: The Red Inn. Since 1915, travelers and diners have been filling the rooms, bar and restaurant on the harbor’s edge. There’s a local guy hoping no one’s in his favorite bar stool and a couple from New York ordering their first Wellfleet oysters, a local delicacy. Visitors from across the pond have emerged from their guest suite and are toasting their “Tea-tinis” on the deck. Everyone has a water view. It’s low tide and you could walk almost all the way to Long Point about a mile ahead. Any townie worth their sea salt will tell you the Pilgrims landed first at Long Point before settling in Plymouth, Massachusetts. But that’s another story and your drink has arrived and that lobster and artichoke fondue those people just ordered looks amazing. The jaunt on the beach can wait. 50
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The Red Inn features a water view and half price oysters, little necks and shrimp everyday 2:30 to 5 pm
A new world of famous names that now make their way to the inn include the late Anne Meara and her husband Jerry Stiller who loved it so much they sent flowers after their stay. (We’re told he would walk to the beach for a swim every morning). Lily Tomlin, Chelsea Handler, and Carly Simon have all been spotted having lunch or dinner, and you never know who you will see joining the musicians at the Sunday jazz brunch. Those really in-the-know stop by between 2:30 and 5:00 for the daily “raw bar happy hour,” with Wellfleet Oysters and clams and shrimp at half price. “We try to be sure there’s something for everyone, and that it always feels special,” says Burke. “It doesn’t even seem like I’m in Massachusetts when I’m here. It’s that place at the end of the road that feels like I could be anywhere on the water.” Anywhere in all its glory. Mission accomplished. The Red Inn is open from mid-April through New Year’s. theredinn.com
Photos: Susan Biemsderfer
Fun times outside The Red Inn overlooking Provincetown Harbor.
“When I saw this place, all I could see was an incredible spot on the water, and what we could do with it,” says co-owner Sean Burke. That was the autumn of 2001 when he and business partners Philip Mossy and David Silva were deciding if they should start an enterprise together. It was post-9–11 and not all of the world was feeling optimistic. The historic sprawling property was worse for the wear after hard times and in sore need of love and attention. Silva, whose family has run businesses in town for generations, saw a chance to bring the inn’s oldworld charm back to life. “We knew if we were going to do it, we had a tradition to uphold,” he recalls. That tradition included a history of esteemed guests, among them President Theodore Roosevelt and the movie stars Ryan O’Neal and Isabella Rossellini. For Mossy, a career restaurateur, it would be a chance to craft just the right menu for the Cape Cod audience. The men made it their mission to bring the glory days back to the Inn. Cut to May of 2002, when its new proprietors re-opened the Red Inn to a more than welcome reception. “People really wanted to be here, whether they remembered it from before or were coming here for the first time, and they haven’t stopped coming back,” says Mossy with a grateful smile. He took particular care with the 2015 menu that would mark the inn’s 100th anniversary, a milestone officially celebrated in mid-August with a “Red Party” fundraising shindig for the Provincetown Center for Coastal Studies. Since the landmark re-opened, accolades include Cape Cod Life magazine’s Gold Medal Award for fine dining, a nod for best seafood on the Cape and the Islands by Boston Magazine, and a Travel and Leisure cover story.
PROVINCETOWN
Renaissance by the Sea: The Red Inn
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PROVINCETOWN
A WALK IN THE PARK: The new health and wellness program at Cape Cod National Seashore
Writer Greg Melville
The Cape Cod National Seashore Photos: Chuck Anzalone
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By Greg Melville
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arning: Taking pictures while riding a bike—downhill, on a twisting path—can be extremely dangerous. I discovered this fun fact when my trusty Schwinn careened off-course and into the sand during a ranger-led morning ride at the Cape Cod National Seashore in Provincetown, Massachusetts. I couldn’t resist, though. The view beyond my handlebars of the scrub-covered dunes dropping into the Atlantic was too pixel-perfect. Luckily, I was OK afterward—and the ranger didn’t see a thing. Getting hurt would have been especially embarrassing since the ride was part of the “Healthy Parks, Healthy People” program organized by the National Park Service and Cape Cod Healthcare.
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This partnership effort, in its first year, is aimed at luring people like me from their beach chairs and barstools to exercise a little more and appreciate the Cape Cod park’s 44,000 pristine acres, which begins in Provincetown and fringes along nearly 40 miles of shoreline to the town of Orleans. “Healthy Parks, Healthy People” runs through the fall, and offers adventures—by foot, bike, and canoe—led by rangers and in some cases local medical professionals. I stumbled upon the program one morning at the Salt Pond Visitor’s Center in Eastham, where it sets up a “base camp” tent in the parking lot every weekday from 7 to 10 a.m. A physical therapist named Daniel measured my weight, body mass index, body fat percentage, and blood pressure, then offered a “prescription” listing some different activities that would meet my interests and, hopefully, enhance my fitness level. The sunrise yoga on the beach option sounded inviting, but the only kind of sunrise I generally try to witness is one with the word “tequila” in front of it. An “energetic hike off the beaten path” also caught my eye, but there were scheduling conflicts involving my kids. So I chose the bike tour on the hilly, 5.5-mile paved Provincelands Bike Trail. I arrived shortly before at 9 a.m. on a Monday at the park’s Provincelands Visitor Center in Provincetown and was met by 24-year-old Anna Gannett, a ranger who spearheads the program for the National Park Service. She looked tanned and fit, like a triathlete, which worried me. “You usually take it easy on 45-year-old men, right?” I asked. She laughed. As if I was kidding.
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eet the newest members of the Bird’s Eye View team, Greg Melville living in Cape Cod, Massachusetts with his wife, two kids, and hound dog. Greg was the perfect choice to write about working out at the Cape Cod National Seashore. He is a former editor of Men’s Journal and Sports Afield, and former online columnist for Outside magazine. His other writing credits include National Geographic Traveler, the New York Times, Outside, Skiing, and Parents. His book, Greasy Rider was about a cross-country drive in a beat-up old Mercedes diesel station wagon that he converted to run on recycled french fry grease. Greg adds here, “I started as a newspaper reporter in Alexandria, Virginia and I’m a Navy Reservist and an Afghan war veteran. I love travel writing because it allows me to be a bumbling fool in amazing places and somehow still get paid for it.” Welcome to the family Greg!
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PROVINCETOWN/TRURO You will need a respite in the nearby Truro Vineyards after a performance of Thrill Me: The Leopold and Loeb Story. In 1924 the pair were charged with murder in what was called the ‘Crime of the Century.’
Race Point Beach
We spent the next 90 minutes following the meandering route of the bike path, which was the first ever created in a U.S. national park when it was dedicated in 1967. It took us through thick beech and pine forests, past lily-covered freshwater ponds, cranberry bogs, and for the grand finale, among those amazing dunes that reveal the ocean beyond them—and where I had my minor bike mishap. Whether or not the ride lowered my weight, body mass, or blood pressure is debatable, but I enjoyed the exercise, and saw firsthand that the national seashore is more than just seashore. I promised Gannett I’d return for more of the program’s offerings—though probably not the sunrise yoga. “Getting people to come back to the park and explore 54
Photo: Chuck Anzalone
the national seashore in a different way are two of the primary goals of Healthy Parks, Healthy People—beyond the health aspect”—said George Price, superintendent of the Cape Cod National Seashore. He added that the program is slated to run for five years. Dr. Elissa Thompson, a cardiologist at Cape Cod Healthcare and the project’s medical director, said the public response in the park has been strong so far. “We’ve had people bring their passports who have been back three, four or five times” to have their fitness progress measured, she said. Not that Thompson is surprised: “This is a beautiful place to become a healthier person,” she said. As long as you’re not trying to take pictures while riding a bike, of course. B I R D’S
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Thursday–Saturdays, 8pm / Sundays 3 pm Wellfleet Harbor Actors Theatre — WHAT.org
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H YAN N I S , C APE COD
“You absolutely could not have done any better”— Ethel Kennedy Photos courtesy of the JFK Museum
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Ethel Kennedy with JFK Museum director John Allen Photo taken at the JFK Museum by Myron Maynard
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have to say we were a bit nervous about Ethel’s reaction to our exhibit,” says JFK Museum board member Richard Neitz. “After all, these two men were her husband and brother-inlaw, and to have her approval is high praise indeed.” Separated by eight years, John the elder and Robert the younger may have been different in style and temperament, but they shared a steel grit, coupled with single-minded determination when fighting for the cause. The world held a collective breath when JFK the President took on both Castro and Khrushchev. Years earlier, as chief legal counsel for what was called the Senate Labor Rackets Committee, Robert Kennedy refused to blink in an epic exchange with Teamster’s Union boss Jimmy Hoffa. John and Bobby: who were these men, and what early forces shaped their personal and public lives? Jack & Bobby Kennedy, Brothers First, now on exhibit at the JFK Museum in Hyannis, tells their story with over eighty photographs, some of them never seen before candids, along with home movies and recollections from family and friends. Located a few miles from the Kennedy family home, the exhibit continues thru the end of the year. jfkhyannismuseum.org
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The Holidays–Caribbean Style
Join us in the Bird’s Eye View holiday issue For advertising rates reach out to Kimberly.Corkran@capeair.com 410.829.1101 Photo ©Don Hebert
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Ain’t No Mountain High Enough
The Book of Mormon — September 1– October 11, Emerson Colonial Theatre
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all brings the supremely talented Diana Ross to one of the largest stages in the country, the Wang. The Motown queen is doing a one-night performance of her hits on September 19th. Also this fall at the nearby Emerson Colonial Theatre is the phenomenally successful Tony winner, The Book of Mormon. The South Park team, Trey Parker and Matt Stone, hit the mother lode with this show running thru mid-October. Note on this show-it is adults only in content. This is understandable to fans of South Park. He is a Beatle. My fingers will not let me write former Beatle. Ringo Starr and his All Starr Band will appear on the Wang stage on October 23rd. The band means Todd Rundgren, Steve Lukather (Toto), Gregg Rolie (Santana, Journey), Richard Page (Mr. Mister), Warren Ham and Gregg Bissonette (ELO). Come April, Ringo will be inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame where he will be honored with the Award for Musical Excellence. Full line up at citicenter.org
Diana Ross September 19, theWang Theatre
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October 23, the Wang Theatre
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BOSTON
The first rhyme for most of us is rooted in Boston’s history. Photo courtesy of The Boston Pictorial Archive
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Quincy Market circa 1930
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By Ann Murphy ake a step back in time with Linda Perlman, a retired school teacher who leads free tours of Boston’s historic Quincy Market at Faneuil Hall Marketplace. These are the stories that you will not find in your usual history book but they are all true. This walk back in time traces the steps of historic figures that shaped the city of Boston, bringing you back to the late 1700s/ early 1800s when the population was exploding. Faneuil Hall, built by Peter Faneuil, was the bustling market center where food vendors in pushcarts tried to keep up with the increased demand for products. When Mayor Josiah Quincy took office he vowed to establish a public market, fully stocked, where both bluebloods and longshoremen could buy their food. In 1826, the market was open to great fanfare in the spectacular Greek Revival-style structure to reflect the connection to the world’s first democracy to the modern day Boston. There were vendors selling produce, dairy, and meats including turkey, chicken and beef which are depicted on tiles that you can see at the Quincy Market food vendor Piccolo Panini. B I R D’S
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Along the Quincy Market Historic Tour
You will learn that the first Lady’s Fair was held at Quincy Market, where Sarah Hale singlehandedly raised $30,000 to help build the Bunker Hill Monument. (You may also know Hale as the author of the nursery rhyme Mary Had A Little Lamb.) You’ll also find out that Boston’s nickname of “Beantown” is a by-product of the Puritans, who kept only one religious law from the Church of England—to keep the Sabbath from sundown Saturday to sundown Sunday, forbidding any travel or work, including cooking. Every Saturday morning, the Puritans would light their kitchen fires, throw beans in pots and let them cook slowly overnight, ready for Sunday dinner. Those famous Boston Baked Beans are still served at Durgin Park, one of the Boston’s oldest restaurants at Faneuil Hall Marketplace. The free Quincy Market Historic Tour meets at Café Pulse at Faneuil Hall Marketplace. Tours take place through October. faneuilhallmarketplace.com FALL
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Classic | MLS 1101817 | $1,285,000
Oceanfront | MLS 1092993 | $2,425,000
Views | MLS 1096994 | $910,000
Historic | MLS 1100442 | $940,000
Custom | MLS 1102608 | $1,965,000
Traditional | MLS 1076254 | $1,610,000
1BR Condo | MLS 1083107 | $269,000
Ballard Hall real estate
OCTOBER 2 – OCTOBER 4, 2015
The Clay Head Preserve, a 150-acre preserve with a variety of hiking trails. One way heads to the beach and the other winds up above the clay bluffs. Part of the land is called “the maze” because the many intertwining trails are unmarked and you can do a fair amount of wandering in circles. A few breadcrumbs may be called for here.
WAS THAT A SCARLET TANAGER?
Photo courtesy of the Audubon Society of Rhode Island
Mermaid Hill | MLS 1079889 | $2,585,000
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Ocean Avenue, Block Island, RI 02807 Phone: 401-466-8883 Gail Hall, Principal Broker
Judith Cyronak & Blake Phelan, Associate Brokers Michele Phelan, David Graham, Laurel Littlefield, Chelsea Phelan, Elizabeth Carlson (RI & CT), Licensees
American Kestrel
RHODE ISLAND
STATE-WIDE
www.blockislandproperty.com
info@blockislandproperty.com
RHODE ISLAND
Waterfront | MLS 1095846 | $2,250,000
A Birder’s Delight Happening on Block Island this Fall
Photos: Kari Curtis/ Block Island Tourism
Block Island Sales & Vacation Rentals Phone: 401-466-8883 info@blockislandproperty.com
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he paparazzi are out in force on Rhode Island’s Block Island this fall but their long lenses are trained on the sky as opposed to the celebrity du jour. The big stars here are the true snow birds, feathered friends on a mission. Flocks of birds pass through the tiny island every fall as part of the Atlantic Flyway, an important time and location for birders with one hundred-plus different species swooping in to say hello. Of course the Audubon Society is one with this special weekend of birding (October 2-4) and if you do not know a Baltimore oriole from the everyday robin, have no fear for Audubon experts lead guided walks for beginners and seasoned birdwatchers. “Birders are passionate people,” says Jessica Willi of the Block Island Tourism Council. “With Block Island on the migratory flyway, this is an exciting time to see an amazing variety of birds, and fall is a gorgeous time to get out and see Block Island. The water is still warm enough for swimming, the busy summer crowds are gone, the shops are open for business and shoulder season rates are happening with our accommodations.” 65
BLOCK ISLAND RHODE ISLAND
Photo courtesy of the Audubon Society of Rhode Island
“The number of birds arriving on Block Island is dependent on weather but early October is the height of the bird migration heading south. After flying through the night they realize they are over water and ‘ fall out.’ (That is birder talk for them landing in one big swoop.)” — Jeffrey Hall, Senior Director of Advancement for the Audubon Society of Rhode Island.
Yellow-crowned Night Heron Photos: Block Island Tourism Council
Crescent Beach, Block Island — in early fall the water is still warm enough for swimming.
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T A S T E O F B L O C K I S L A N D , S E P T. 2 5 – 2 7, 2 0 1 5 RHODE ISLAND
Cindy Wilson Photography
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Serious business—choosing the perfect clam chowder
oodies and those who love them can find another reason to consider Block Island for a fall escape—the 7th Annual Taste of Block Island. Restaurant specials will be happening everywhere, along with farm tours and wine and beer tastings. You can also loosen the belt for a design-your-own ice cream sundae event and then work it off on the seventeen miles of bike paths or the dozens of hiking trails. In addition to food, the event also features paddle board classes, as well as guided tours of the island, including the local animal farm. For a full line-up on all things Block Island, reach out to the Block Island Chamber of Commerce at blockislandchamber.com and the Block Island Tourism Council at blockislandinfo.com. The getting there part is easy with Cape Air’s nonstop thirty-two minute flights from Rhode Island’s T. F. Green Airport. If you book early you may have a chance at special round trip fares of $98 between T. F. Green Airport in Providence, and Block Island, Rhode Island. capeair.com
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PE NOBSCOT BAY MAINE
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“The swath of color here in the mid-coast is amazing, for we are not that densely populated so we have these enormous blocks of color along the coast line and around our many lakes and it is all accessible and lasts a long time.” — Maggi Blue, Penobscot Bay Regional Chamber of Commerce
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Rockport, Maine
Photo courtesy of the Penobscot Bay Chamber of Commerce
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THE TASTE OF THOMASTON — OCTOBER 10, 2015, 11 AM – 2 PM
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Photos: courtesy of the General Henry Knox Museum
Photo: Michael O’Neil, Courtesy of the Penobscot Bay Chamber of Commerce
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aine’s fall splendor, accompanied with a repast from farm and sea, prepared by local chefs and rounded out with wine, song, and a mega crafts fair—it all happens on the grounds of the Knox Museum in the Penobscot Bay town of Thomaston. While here, do not miss the chance to visit the museum dedicated to an often overlooked American patriot. Washington, Jefferson, Adams and Franklin—all well-known heroes of the American Revolution, whose faces every American can pick out of a line-up. But what of Penobscot Bay’s Henry Knox? Like many who serve as someone’s right-hand man, one can get lost in the shadow of the more famous leader. So is the case of General Henry Knox, who served alongside General George Washington crossing the Delaware, and in Washington’s cabinet as the young nation’s first Secretary of War. Knox proved himself to be an able fighter at Bunker Hill, Yorktown, Brandywine and Valley Forge. After retiring from public life, Knox moved into his new home in Thomaston, Maine which he named Montpelier, in honor of France’s support during the Revolutionary War.
Cellar Door Winery, Lincolnville, Maine
History Comes Alive
Montpelier, The General Henry Knox Museum, Thomaston, Maine
Today’s building is a 1929 re-creation of the original Montpelier built in 1794. Here’s a chance to mix a little history with your foliage nod. Top it off with a festival dedicated to food and wine. All details at knoxmuseum.org
October 10, 11 9 am – 3 pm Owls Head Transportation Museum
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ocated minutes from your Cape Air arrival, the Owls Head Transportation Museum is pretty much nirvana for motor heads and aviation lovers. The aircraft collection includes a 1903 Wright Flyer and a 1910 biplane. The classic autos are also impressive with a 1904 Mercedes, and of course, Ford’s Model T. In addition to the museum’s collection, antique car owners are invited to come join the fun with their own automotive treasures. owlshead.org
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Chef prepares duck canapés for the Taste of Thomaston.
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MAINE
PE NOBSCOT BAY—
THE JEWEL OF THE MAINE COAST
New England’s Top Foliage Towns*
Blue Hill and Camden, Maine–Manchester and Woodstock, Vermont
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Penobscot Bay, Maine
Photos: Carol Latta
ou cannot get more New England than the renowned and, at 80 years old, one could say venerable, Yankee Magazine, a coffee table staple, chock-a block full of features, travel news and delicioso recipes, all New England centric, and enjoyed by an estimated readership of 1.8 million. Headquartered in Dublin, New Hampshire, one would assume that in eight decades, this family-owned publishing house has experienced its fair share of fall color. So, when they single out the “top towns in New England” for fall foliage travel, and the winning towns happen to be Cape Air destinations, it is a hooray moment for all of us at the Bird’s Eye View. According to the Yankee website, the criteria is fairly simple—color, scenery, vistas, water reflections, drives, hikes, culture, farmers market, orchards, parks, covered bridges…you get the idea.
*According to Yankee Magazine
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PE NOBSCOT BAY MAINE
Camden, Maine
Photo: Eliza Magro
Photo: Carol Latta
Leading the Yankee list of winners is Camden, Maine, rightly tagged, “where the mountains meet the sea.” Once immortalized in the 1959 steamer Peyton Place, Camden is the quintessential Maine town with one of a kind Main Street shops alongside the requisite village green. The must-visit here for fall is Camden Hills State Park, 5,500 acres of hiking trails, picnic areas, camp sites and access to Mount Battie offering an 800-foot high view of Penobscot Bay. The hike to the top is a fairly easy two hours, but if climbing is not in the cards for you, there is a car road. Fall is prime season, so plan to hike out at first light, when you are apt to have the best color show around all to yourself. When the shopping bug hits, both Camden and nearby Rockland offer a variety of options along Main Street. In fact, Rockland’s downtown has earned a nod from the National Trust for Historic Preservation, and you have to love a place where the a sign spelling out L O V E in a huge blue blocks is the prime attraction.
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PE NOBSCOT BAY MAINE
Photos: Eliza Magro Meet the artists at the First Friday Art Walk, Rockland
A Rockland meander must include a visit to the nationally-recognized Farnsworth Museum, home to the Wyeth Center featuring the work of Andrew, N.C. and Jamie Wyeth. Currently on exhibit are the water colors of Andrew Wyeth along with the collective art of three generations of America’s most beloved family of artists. Include a Friday in your mid-coast Maine visit and you can take advantage of First Fridays, when the Main Street galleries, including the Farnsworth, open their doors from 5 to 8 pm for a mix and mingle with wine, nibbles and, in many cases, an opportunity to meet the artists.
‘Love’ sculpture at the Farnsworth by Robert Indiana
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BLUE HILL PENINSULA MAINE
Photos: Blue Hill Peninsula Chamber of Commerce
Blue Hill, Maine
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umpkin pancake breakfasts, craft fairs, a food festival, guided nature walks and a “lose yourself in it” corn maze are just a few of the fall events happening in Maine’s Blue Hill Peninsula. The Maine of country stores, boat building and cozy inns awaits with a right turn from the Bar Harbor Airport to the towns of Blue Hill, Brooklin, Brooksville, Castine, Penobscot and Sedgwick. Do not miss nearby Deer Isle and Stonington. In spite of the miles of wide open vistas and quiet back roads you will find a remarkable variety of things to do here, so make your first stop the Blue Hill Peninsula Chamber of Commerce for the lineup of events.
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T H E TA S T E O F T H E PE N I N S U L A BLUE HILL PENINSULA, MAINE
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ctober marks the tenth anniversary of the Chamber’s flagship celebration, the Taste of the Peninsula. “We expect as many as thirty different food vendors this year,” says Johanna Barrett, Executive Director of the Blue Hill Peninsula Chamber of Commerce. “This is our time to celebrate the area’s farm and fishing community as well as our amazing local chefs, making this the perfect opportunity for visitors to share and enjoy our region’s bounty.” Sunday, October 11, 2015. 11am–3pm Mainescape Garden Center South Street, Blue Hill Tickets are $10 per person with children under 10 admitted free. bluehillpeninsula.org
Photos: Blue Hill Peninsula Chamber of Commerce
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HISTORICAL TOURS OF BAR HARBOR
BAR HARBOR
MAINE Photo ©Greg Latimer
The Red Cloak Haunted History Tour
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ith a history rich in both Native-American and maritime culture, along with carefully preserved architecture, Bar Harbor is a perfect setting for historical walking tours, especially for those who like a scare in the night. The Red Cloak Haunted History Tour takes folks along Bar Harbor’s Shore Path to the Village Burying Ground while the Haunted Bar Harbor Tour led by a local Native American includes what are considered haunted places along with Wabanaki Indian tales of the supernatural. Information on both tours at BarHarborMaine.com.
Haunted Bar Harbor Walking Tour
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BAR HARBOR MAINE
AS NIGHT FALLS IN BAR HARBOR LOOK TO THE SKIES
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ar Harbor and nearby Acadia National Park can lay claim to pristine star-filled night skies with a “Milky Way shining bright in the largest expanse of naturally dark sky, east of the Mississippi.” Bar Harbor is protective and proud of its moniker as a place “that still has stars.” The Acadia Night Sky Festival pays homage to Maine’s starlit sky with a full program of star gazing acadianightskyfestival.com.
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BAR HARBOR’S MOUNT DESERT ISLAND MARATHON Half-Marathon and Relay — October 18, 2015 Photos: Kevin R. Morris
“Most Scenic Destination Marathon in North America!” — ESPN
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ne of 11 Races to Run Before you Die!” — Men’s Health Magazine Multiple accolades awarded to an annual Bar Harbor sporting event that includes everyone from elite runners to brisk walkers. “We draw runners to Bar Harbor from all 50 states and beyond,” says race director and life-long Mainer Gary Allen, who has logged 98 marathons. “I love running and started this race in 2002 while running the New York marathon. I had a light bulb moment and realized I had to bring this home to Maine. Our race is now a true community event that that continues to grow every year.” Cheering from the sidelines is always welcome and you certainly cannot beat the setting. It is Mother Nature’s show off moment with brilliant bursts of color across Bar Harbor.
Gary Allen, Founder and Director of the Mount Desert Island Marathon
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1,500 runners, joggers and walkers compete in Bar Harbor’s Mount Desert Island Marathon
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NORTHEAST/SOUTHWEST HARBOR MAINE
Photos: Steve Bart/katahdinphotogallery.com The gift that keeps on giving. The fall palette is on at the impeccably maintained Asticou Azalea Garden in Northeast Harbor. This gift to the town is open to one and all thru the end of October. The Japanese design features walkways, water gardens and plenty of benches for a peaceful “timeout.”
Asticou Stream Trail, Northeast Harbor, Maine
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MONHEGAN AND THE ISLANDS MAINE Photo: ŠKelli LK Haines
Photo: Steve Bart/katahdinphotogallery.com
Healing body and soul is part of the mission of Monhegan Wellness. With degrees in Holistic Nutrition and yoga certification from the Nosara Yoga Institute Tara Hire leads yoga classes and all inclusive yoga retreats at the edge of the world. Find her at Monheganwellness.com.
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An historic artist retreat, offering a true respite from just about everything. A short drive from your Cape Air arrival in Rockland, Maine to the picturesque fishing village of Port Clyde then a quick hop on the mail boat to magical Monhegan Island. Stop the world this fall and spend at least one night on this tiny island. If you need a break this is it.
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MONHEGAN AND THE ISLANDS
MO N TA N A MO N TA N A
Photos courtesy of Missouri River Country
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The call of the Elk
hen was the last time you heard the bugle sound of an elk in the wild on the hunt for a mate? In the Cape Air cities of Boston or Albany that is probably coming up as a “never.” But for the next two months Cape Air’s Montana passengers are hearing the call of wild elk ring out across the Sidney/Fort Peck area as an estimated 500 hundred elk and cows (female elk) gather at the Slippery Ann Elk Viewing Area. “If you enjoy seeing wildlife this is a great event, “says Carla Hunsley of Montana’s Missouri River Country. The elk and cows are pretty much focused on each other so you are able to get some real close-up views of these amazing animals. Every fall huge crowds come out to watch them and it truly never gets old.” The Slippery Ann Wildlife Viewing Area is located along the Missouri River near the Fred Robinson Bridge on Hwy 191.
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By Michelle Haynes
he patented Tarzan yell is forever embedded as the requisite sound effect of the classic cannonball pond dive, the sand dune leap, and even a Carol Burnett trademark. Today the familiar sound can be heard above the tree tops as Tarzan wannabes line up for one of the nation’s fastest growing play choice—zip lines.
St. Thomas zip line
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Photo: The Wild Center
“Aah-eeh-ah-eeh-aaaaaah-eeh-ah-eeh-aaaaah”
For the uninformed, a zip line is an elevated cable ride that zips harnessed riders downhill at high speeds, powered only by gravity. You can now find zip lines pretty much everywhere and they continue to grow at a rather dizzying pace. Folks love them. Cape Air’s vacation destinations are no exception, including one of the newest ziplines, found in St. Thomas, in the U.S. Virgin Islands. Soar above the palm fronds with the Tree Limin’ Extreme Zipline Tour located in the St. Thomas rainforest. Between yells, do not forget to note views of spectacular Magens Bay and the British Virgin Islands of Jost Van Dyke and Tortola.
Photo: Anthony Wellman/Tree Limin’ Extreme
One person’s zip line is another’s Adventure Park, Cape Cod’s newest tree-top escape is in the town of Sandwich in the sumptuous grounds of the Heritage Museums and Gardens. Adventurers can choose their own level from five different aerial trails featuring tunnels, moving planks, zip lines and rope walks. “We had a total blast,” said Heather McBride. “We found the perfect level for all of the kids from ages 7 to 11 but I think my husband had the most fun of all!” B I R D’S
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The Adirondack’s Wild Walk
It’s a walk on the wild side at the brand new aerial attraction in the heart of the Adirondacks, about thirty minutes from your Cape Air arrival in Saranac Lake. Wild Walk is an elevated trail covering 80 acres of woods at the Wild Center in Tupper Lake. Winding platforms and bridges are elevated forty feet above ground, giving you an intimate view, one with the forest feel to the world around you. FALL
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Go take a hike with the
Adirondack Mountain Club (ADK) and experience the Eastern High Peaks Wilderness from the summit of Mt. Joe.
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short drive from your Cape Air arrival in Saranac Lake—enjoy a lake side view of fall splendor at the historic Adirondack Loj located alongside picturesque Heart Lake. Built in 1927 the Loj retains the traditional feel of a rustic but homey cabin with the open living room, stone fireplace and a large dining area. Rooms range from private to communal bunkrooms and the rates include delicious home cooked meals served family style for breakfast and dinner and even a trail lunch packed and ready for your morning hike. Rates in the $70 to $150 range. adk.org
Heart Lake and the surrounding Eastern High Peaks Wilderness Photo: VisitAdirondacks.com
Photos: Seth Jones
The Adirondack Loj
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Photos: The Wild Center
Suspended bridge linking the Twig Treehouse to the Snag at Wild Walk.
SARANAC LAKE’S WILD SIDE…
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t’s a walk on the wild side at the brand new aerial attraction in the heart of the Adirondacks, about thirty minutes from your Cape Air arrival in Saranac Lake. Wild Walk is an elevated trail covering eighty acres of woods at the Wild Center in Tupper Lake. Winding platforms and bridges are elevated forty feet above ground giving you an intimate view, one with the forest feel to the world around you. The special stops along the way are set up to let you observe and enjoy the stillness along with some pretty spectacular views, especially now dressed in autumn’s splendor. Unlike the heart racing zipline, this is more of a meander at your own pace and if walking through a tree does not conjure up Peter, Wendy and the Lost Boys, you need a Neverland refresher course. “What we care about is connecting people with nature. It embodies who we are,” said Stephanie Ratcliffe, executive director of the 10-year-old Wild Center. “Our exhibit techniques, the way we designed our building and the Wild Walk — it’s all intended to connect people with nature and really have this new perspective on the world around them.” Tickets range from $20 for adults and $13 for children over four. wildcenter.org
Now this truly is a bird’s eye view! Inside a 10 foot wide replica of a bald eagle nest.
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Walk on the Wild Walk — wildcenter.org
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NEW YORK NEW YORK
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The ‘New’ Blues Brothers, Dan Aykroyd and Jim Belushi, February, 2009
Adam Paul-Executive Director, St. Lawrence International Film Festival. An actor, writer and director best known for playing Mitch, The Naked Man on the CBS hit How I Met Your Mother.
St. Lawrence International Film Festival October 22-25, 2015
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lbany, Massena and Ogdensburg take note—coming this fall is the first-ever St. Lawrence International Film Festival and the “international” part of that title is meant in the literal sense, with events happening in Canton, New York and across the water into Ottawa, Canada. It is that Canadian connection that brings one of America’s most enduring performers to the festival. Canadian born, in fact his grandfather was a member of the Canadian Mounted Police, (think Nelson Eddy) Saturday Night Live alumnus Dan Aykroyd will kick off the festival with the 35th anniversary showing of the epic hit, The Blues Brothers. “Director Jon Landis was at the top of his game when he made The Blues Brothers,” says Festival Director Adam Paul. “He understood comedy and timing and used big set pieces with small moments inspired by Dan and John Belushi whose characters were developed at SNL and honed in live performances that few movie characters get the benefit of developing. The movie’s DNA is rooted in rhythm and blues from Chicago, American jazz with Cab Calloway and Aretha and Ray Charles. The list goes on and on. And it also has one of the greatest car chase scenes in film. I have to say, to present this special screening for our first film festival is a special honor for us. What I like to call an incredible icing for an incredible cake.” Full festival line up at stlawrencefilm.com An added bonus for Cape Air passengers—a 15% discount on your festival badge by entering the discount code CAPEAIR15. B I R D’S E Y E V I E W
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OLD TIME FAIR , WOODS TOCK , VE RMONT VERMONT
Photos: Woodstock Area Chamber of Commerce
Around the Corner & Around the World
Reading • Stunning home on 146+/-acres that has the potential for a family compound/retreat. Three levels of luxurious living. Chef’s kitchen and guest suite with two bedrooms & sitting area. Easy access to GMHA, skiing and golf. $1,800,000.
Reading • Hurricane Hill offers total privacy on 165+ spectacular acres. Property includes spring-fed pond, in-ground pool, tennis court, freestanding artist’s studio and antique barn. Convenient to DHMC & I-91. Price Upon Request
West Windsor • Restored 1852 stone cape is the centerpiece of a superb horse complex with a 3 BDRM Caretaker’s apartment, 12 stall barn with indoor arena, utility barns, paddocks & run-ins on 119+ acres. Outstanding value at $1,200,000.
Willamson-Group.com • 802.457.2000 Successfully Selling Real Estate For Over 40 Years 24 Elm • Woodstock VT • Each Office is Independently Owned and Operated
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rom the Manhattan skyline to the heart of New England’s fall foliage show, the postcard perfect town of Woodstock, Vermont is a short drive from your Cape Air arrival in Lebanon, New Hampshire. If you are looking for a getaway that truly captures the spirit of the season check out the Second Annual Old Time Fair sponsored by the Woodstock History Center featuring old fashioned games, (horse shoes anyone) cotton candy, face painting, crafts, live music and lots more. Last year’s event drew a crowd of 500 and the price is totally right, 25 cents to one and all (not a misprint). Saturday, September 26th, 1–4 pm. woodstockhistorical.org
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G R E E N W I T H E N V. I . The Virgin Islands’ Best Eco-Friendly Resorts By Susan Zaluski
COOPER ISLAND BEACH CLUB, BVI
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Just a short boat ride away from the BVI’s renowned “Wreck of the Rhone” dive site is Cooper Island, great for SCUBA folks or for those seeking a no-nonsense beach holiday. Boasting 75% renewable energy, rainwater collection, use of bio-degradable cups and straws in the restaurant and support of marine research projects, Cooper Island Beach Club has an impressive environmental record, demonstrating how a property can “go green” without sacrificing quality. Rooms are airy and elegant, and the property has a beach-chic casual atmosphere. The on-site bar and restaurant is lively during the day when it is frequented by visiting yachtsmen, and then a lot more serene after sunset. You can snorkel right off the beach and television screens behind the bar project live feed from nearby underwater coral reef and sea grass cameras (part of a marine research project supported by the hotel). Rooms start from $250 per night. cooperislandbeachclub.com
rom plain to posh, a few of the Virgin Islands’ hotels are receiving global recognition for their eco-friendly properties and practices. Whether you are a nature and wildlife lover or just want to choose a socially responsible venue for your next Virgin Islands holiday, these green destinations offer something for every taste and budget.
If simple elegance with a bit of pampering in a stunning, pristine natural environment is what you are after, then 850-acre private Guana Island is the place. Privately-owned and closed to the general public, there are typically only about 30 guests on island. The resort’s food is exceptional with fresh seafood and island-grown fruits and vegetables featured on a menu that touts itself as ranging from “healthy to sinful.” For a special treat, the kitchen can pack you a gourmet picnic lunch and Guana’s boatmen will sweep you away to one of the island’s seven secluded beaches. Guana’s owners have initiated numerous studies of the island’s natural environment, which is believed to have “more flora and fauna than any island of its size in the Caribbean and possibly the world.” Nature lovers and those who just want a diversion from the beach will enjoy the island’s unique ambience with walking paths and hiking trails. Stay on the lookout for flamingos in the salt pond, the rare Bridled Quail Dove or the critically-endangered Anegada Rock Iguana which is only found on a few of the BVI’s islands. Guana Island Club rooms start from $1,250 per night. guana.com
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CONCORDIA ECO-RESORT, ST. JOHN, USVI
Photo Courtesy of Concordia Eco-Resort
Photos courtesy of Guana Island
GUANA ISLAND, BVI:
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Photo courtesy of Cooper Island Beach Club
BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS
Eco-warriors, budget conscious travelers and avid outdoor enthusiasts will feel most at home at St. John’s Concordia Eco-Resort. Located near Coral Bay, Concordia is a great base for those who want to explore the hiking trails and green hillsides of the Virgin Islands National Park or St. John’s numerous beaches and snorkeling sites. Be sure to pack sturdy shoes for hiking and snorkel gear. Do-it-yourselfers can rent a 4WD-jeep for island exploration. On-site you can enjoy early morning yoga classes, take a dip in the freshwater pool, or swap St. John “island secrets” with fellow travelers at Café Concordia. There is a short path that leads to Salt Pond Bay, which has a pretty white-sand beach, exceptional snorkeling and access to Ram Head Trail, one of St. John’s most iconic hikes. Concordia has basic but clean “Eco-Tents” (upgrade to a Premium eco-tent for a million dollar view). EcoTents are outfitted with simple camp furniture, a camp stove and private bath that has a composting toilet and solar-heated shower. For those who aren’t ready to rough it there are also eco-friendly apartment units on site with full kitchen and bath. Rates for eco-tents start from about $110 per night. concordiaeco-resort.com 109
BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS
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CARIBBEAN U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS
Photo: Don Hebert
Photo: Don Hebert
S T. C R O I X , S T. T H O M A S A N D S T. J O H N The United States Virgin Islands is a palm tree paradise offering extraordinary value for your vacation dollar during their so called off season.
Part of that reason, of course, is the fact that fall happens to be hurricane season. So take advantage of travel insurance and reap the rewards of the Caribbean’s quiet time. To tempt you further, enjoy an island visit via island photographers Don Hebert and Steve Simonsen.
Cooked to order, fresh Caribbean lobster
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S T. C RO IX U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS
Photos: Don Hebert
The holidays are coming. The USVI offers duty-free shopping.
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S T. JO H N
St. John can lay claim to more than 28 miles of hiking trails and you can find detailed trail maps at the National Park headquarters, minutes from your arrival at the St. John ferry dock in Cruz Bay. Photos: Steve Simonsen Annaberg Plantation Ruins, St. John
Hiking on St. John
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VIEQUES
VIEQUES
Cavorting at the W Retreat & Spa in Vieques
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Photos: Kelly Thompson
Beach riding on Playa Negra (Black Sand Beach) with the Esperanza Riding Company
Photo: Baily Whitehill
Photo: Chuck Anzalone
hose are not just any wild horses roaming the beaches and byways of Vieques. Think Pizzaro, Cortes or, for Broadway folks, Don Quixote. All Spanish Conquistadors, a fancy word for invaders, who, in the 16th century made their mark on Mexico, Peru and Puerto Rico by leaving their famous horses behind. Generations of those same horses are part of the singular charm of Vieques, a tiny (only 20 miles across and 4 miles wide) Caribbean paradise, about twenty-five Cape Air minutes from San Juan.
Libations by the glow of the W fire pit
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VIEQUES VIEQUES
Photo: Kelly Thompson
Photo: Jan Teeter
The other major claim to fame on Vieques is the quality and number of beaches, free and available to all. From the sumptuous expanse of Sun Bay offering a range of amenities including outstanding piña coladas, to tucked-away stretches of sand accessible only by four-wheel drive, there is a beach for everyone. A comprehensive beach guide and map by Bird’s Eye View contributor Kelly Thompson is now available in her latest issue of Vieques Insider, a glorious guide found at the Cape Air ticket counter in Vieques as well as in a number of stores and restaurants around the island.
Vieques is home to one of the largest bioluminescent bays in the world. Touch the water and it lights up like a bazillion Tinker Bells. Find out the how and why of a bio bay on a guided boat trip with Bird’s Eye View favorite Black Beard Sports at BlackBeardSports.com
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NEVIS
ANGUILLA
The Holidays are coming plan ahead!
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o not get left out in the cold. If you wait until you are scraping ice off your windshield, it may be too late to reap air fare bargains to the Caribbean this winter. Cape Air provides direct service from its Caribbe-an hub of San Juan, Puerto Rico to Vieques and the U.S. Virgin Islands of St. Thomas and St. Croix, as well as the British Virgin Islands of Tortola and Virgin Gorda. For a total, “get away from it all” tropical paradise, check out the Cape Air island destinations of Anguilla and Nevis. Both routes are back in action in mid December, in time for to wrap up the tickets for the ultimate stocking stuffer. Both islands define laid back with spectacular beaches and a friendly, happy you are here, welcome from the islanders. Come winter these flights do fill up so book now and ask about special fares that may be available now at capeair.com and remember no cost to talk to a real life reservations agent at 800.capeair.
BARGAINS …
Illustration by Cape Air’s Jonathan Reed
WHO DOESN’T LOVE A DEAL?
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e have all seen those special promotional fares that offer amazing deals—the only catch is that you have to be ready to book in the next five minutes. Okay, maybe a little exaggeration, but consider this a nudge to Join Cape Air’s Fly Buy gang. Every week, Cape Air Marketing joins forces with the Revenue Management peeps to offer a special of the week. On Tuesday, the deal is revealed to the world via Facebook, Twitter, capeair.com and good old fashioned email. You then have a few days to take advantage of the special offer, which is usually effective for a few weeks.
Another money saving way to fly is with the Cape Air Commuter Book, which is often discounted with the fly buys. Buy a book of 10 one ways or five round trips and you will see savings of at least 30 percent. Sign up, information, and commuter book deals at capeair.com. 122
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NEWS & VIEWS
Photo: Tim Johnson
NEWS & VIEWS
The Islander Britten Norman Islander
THE ‘GREEN MACHINE’
“When one tugs at a single thing in nature, he finds it attached to the rest of the world.” — John Muir
Photo: Chuck Anzalone
A visit to Cape Air’s Hyannis headquarters from the top law enforcement officer in Massachusetts—Cape Air President Linda Markham with Massachusetts AttorneyGeneral Maura Healey, and Cape Air’s CEO, State Senator Dan Wolf.
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Photo: Tim Johnson
Meet two-year old Thatcher, a golden doodle and yes, that is the name and is what happens when a golden retriever and a poodle get together. Thatcher is traveling on pet friendly Nantucket Airlines, with flights between Hyannis and Nantucket.
Cessna 402
Cape Air was awarded the Environmental Merit Award from the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). The award recognizes outstanding environmental advocates who have made significant contributions toward preserving and protecting natural resources.
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The ATR currently flies in Micronesia.
Cape Air launches daily service between New York’s JFK Airport and Hyannis from the island of Nantucket. The new off season service is effective October 15, 2015. Lots more at capeair.com
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CAPE AIR EVERYWHERE
Everyone loves a bargain, especially when it comes to airfares. Do not miss the latest and greatest when it come to Cape The best way to hear about special airfares andAir/Nantucket promotions isAirlines to join fare Capesales. Air’sLog on to capeair.com and click on ...check out details at capeair.com 126
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INDEX
Housefitters Nantucket.............132
PROVINCETOWN/TRURO
ST. CROIX
J. Pepper Frazier Company......10
BodyBody....................................47
The Buccaneer.......................115
Johnstons of Elgin........................17
Bubula’s by the Bay.....................47
Cane Bay Dive Shop..............115 Palms at Pelican Cove...............114
BLOCK ISLAND, RI
House Wine.............................87
Fishbones Bar & Grille..............37
Maria Mitchell Association.......18
Cape Cod Wood Carving............47
1661 Inn & Hotel Manisses.........67
The Island Inn Monhegan........94
Harbor View Hotel...................33
Mariner House.........................24
Christina’s Jewelry.......................46
Aldo’s Mopeds & Bikes................67
Jill Hoy Gallery.........................83
Harborside Realty....................42
Napi’s...........................................46
ST. JOHN
Aldo’s Restaurant.........................91
Knox Museum.........................79
Island Art Gallery.....................37
Maury People Sotheby’s Realty....................................7
Provincetown Chamber...............46
Attwood Real Estate....................68
Kimball Shop & Boutique.........91
Provincetown Tourism Board.......47
Ballard Hall Real Estate................64
The Lindenwood Inn................92
Karen Overtoom Real Estate...........................37
Michael Kane Lightship Baskets....................................25
Islandia Real Estate................117
Block Island Fishworks.................69
Lisa Hall Jewelry......................92
Kelley House............................33
Nantucket Bake Shop..................24
Block Island Realty.......................69
Kelleher Real Estate.................43
Nantucket Coffee Roasters..........29
Historical Society Museum..........69
Lord Camden Inn Grand Harbor Inn................70
Kitchen Porch..........................39
Nantucket Health Club................23
Phillips Real Estate.......................69
The Manor Inn........................82
Lookout Tavern.......................37
Nantucket Inns............................19
Sullivan Real Estate......................67
Monhegan Boat Line Tours......94
Martha’s Vineyard Buyer Agents.......................43
Nantucket Pearl Company..........17
Martha’s Vineyard Museum.....43
Owls Head Transportation Museum..............................77
NantucketStock.com...................18
The Red Inn.............................46 Truro Vineyards.......................55
VERMONT Robert Wallace Real Estate........107 Sugar & Spice........................107 Williamson Group Sotheby’s Realty.................107
Red Sky Restaurant..................91
Polly Hill Arboretum................42
Nantucket Shipwreck Museum.................................28
Redfield Artisans Gallery..........91 Rockport Market Place............77
Ocean View Lounge and Restaurant....................37
Nantucket Windmill Auto Rental......................................15
Rooster Brother.......................84
Simon Gallery..........................42
Nobby Clothes Shop................25
CAPE COD
Salt Meadow Properties...........81
Vineyard Harbor Motel............34
Peter Finch Basketmaker..........15
Brazilian Grill................................58
Seafood Ketch.........................87
Chatham Sign Shop.....................58
Star Gallery..............................92
MONTANA
Thai House..................................24
JFK Hyannis Museum..................58
Tea House 278........................87
Missouri River Country............95
Water Jewels Gallery...................13
Yellow Umbrella Books................58
The Trailing Yew......................94
NEW HAMPSHIRE
Heritage Inn/ Bananakeet Café...................111
MAINE
Trenton Bridge Lobster Pound......................................84
NANTUCKET Arno’s Restaurant........................15
Martha Diebold Real Estate...131
Mahogany Car Rentals..............110
Window Panes............................84
Barrett’s Tours of Nantucket........19
BOSTON Boston Harbor Hotel...................59 Macdonald & Wood Sotheby’s, Duxbury.................63
Breakwater Vineyards..............75 Camden Harbor Cruises...........77 The Country Inn......................79
WoodenBoat...........................81
StructuresUnlimited.....................24
Carimar Beach Club...............122
W Vieques Island Retreat & Spa................................121
THE BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS Fort Burt Hotel/Marina..........110
Sol Y Sombra Villa.................110
Tingalayo Villa...........................2
Breakwater Real Estate............35
The Downyflake..........................29
Fiore Olive Oils & Vinegars......77
Claudia....................................34
Dreamland...................................23
Adirondack White Pine Cabins...............................100
Fisherman’s Friend Restaurant...........................83
Clarion Inn...............................34
Easy Street Cantina......................28
The Collection.........................42
Faregrounds & Pudley’s Pub....28
Galyn’s Restaurant...................84
Eisenhauer Gallery.....................3
The Gallery at Four India St.....23
Great Maine Breakfast.............87
Featherstone Center for the Arts...............................34
Hawthorn House.....................17
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Black Beard Sports.................121
Surfsong Resort.....................111
Farnsworth Museum................75
NEVIS
VIEQUES
Adirondack Outfitters............100
Compass Rose Real Estate...........19
Inter Island Boat Sevices........112
ANGUILLA
Capt. Tom’s Charters...................29
MARTHA’S VINEYARD
Dohm’s Water Taxi................117
CARIBBEAN:
Brass Lantern Inn.........................28
The East Wind Inn...................94
Calypso Realty.......................112
Montepelier Plantation..........122
NEW YORK Adirondack Paintings.............100
ST. THOMAS
Speedy’s Ferry.......................111
Akwesasne Mohwak Casino Reosrt....................105 Ampersand Beach Resort.......105 Guide Boat Realty....................95 Hotel Saranac........................101 Point of View Art.....................95
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As you plan your Cape Air getaway we urge you to call upon our loyal family of advertisers for where to stay, eat, play or perhaps to buy your dreamhouse. This great group of business folks take great pride in their work and we are proud to count them as members of the Bird’s Eye View family. Thank-you for your support. — Michelle Haynes
Tis the Season
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et your message go forth to thousands of Cape Air passengers. From Montana to Martha’s Vineyard to the Caribbean to across New England and beyond, spread the word on where to stay, eat and play in the Bird’s Eye View Holiday edition. Your ad will be seen in 44 destinations across the U.S.A. For advertising rates reach out to: Kimberly.Corkran@capeair.com — 410-829-1101.
The Nantucket Holiday Stroll
Photo: Greg Hinson/Nantucketstock.com