Photo: Tim Johnson
CAPE AIR TESTS THE WATERS
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CEO and MA State Senator Dan Wolf Dan.Wolf@capeair.com SUMMER
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Photo: David Cox
ollowing years of study and months of preparation, Cape Air is making the first step towards a seaplane operation for the northeast. We got our feet wet, literally, this winter with the successful launch of our first seaplane operation from the Florida cities of Miami and Fort Lauderdale to the Bahamian island of Bimini. With water surrounding most of Boston and all of Manhattan, a seaplane operation between the two cities makes perfect sense. Seaplane service will reduce downtown-to-downtown travels times to about 75 minutes. A recent trial run with Cessna Caravan amphibian aircraft over Boston Harbor demonstrated seaplane procedures drafted by the air traffic control tower at Boston’s nearby Logan Airport, and also gave us the opportunity to review seaplane operations with both the Coast Guard and the Boston Harbormaster. Another important priority was to examine the sound of the seaplane and the potential impact In Cape Air’s future? A seaplane between New York and Boston on the neighborhood. We are now studying the results of our successful test flights and working with officials on potential seaplane dock locations (New York has an existing city-owned seaplane base at 23rd Street on the East River). To say we are excited about our seaplane expansion is an understatement and we shall keep you posted on our progress. What you will not have to wait for is the expansion of TSA Pre✓. The expedited screening program is now available to Cape Air passengers. This will go a long way towards streamlining the long waits in TSA lines during the busy summer months. Find a lot more details on the program on page 168. Summer is upon us and I look forward to seeing our Logan Airport passengers in Boston as I return to the cockpit for my 27th year of flying the Provincetown-Boston route and my 40th year of flying. It makes me feel both very fortunate and very old, but it continues to be the best part of my job. Happy Summer everyone and thanks for flying.
*Make our customers happy and have a good time doing it. 5
Photo: Dan McKeon
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Michelle with Cape Cod National Seashore Superintendent George Price
Five year old Jacob grabs the giant anchor in Lopes Square, a landmark in the heart of Provincetown and a GREAT climbing spot for kids. Photo: Gary Patronek
he stakes were in the ground.” His words chilled me enough that my pen stopped in mid-air. Cape Cod National Seashore Superintendent George Price was referring to my beloved Fort Hill, which as part of the National Park Service, actually belongs to all of us. This tuckedaway treasure is the kind of place Patti Page warbled about with rolling green hills, stone walls that go on forever, and a walking trail offering spectacular views before ending down at a tiny beach overlooking Cape Cod Bay. Fort Hill has been my family’s go-to place for fifty years and in honor of the Park’s anniversary I sat down with Superintendent Price who recalled the year 1962 when the land was about to go on the chopping block, literally. “Land for sale” signs were in place before a few enlightened elected officials put a stop to it. We fuss and fume about government running amuck, (often justified) but we should all raise our picnic baskets and hiking shoes and salute the elected visionaries who gifted America with a Cape Cod that is forever preserved. This is a chock-a-block issue that you may not get thru before your flight lands, so feel free to take it with you and please, while you enjoy your time in a Cape Air paradise, give a Bird’s Eye View thanks to our advertisers who make this all possible. Summertime! Is there any better time to be alive?
Michelle Haynes Executive Editor, Bird’s Eye View Michelle.Haynes@capeair.com *Make our customers happy and have a good time doing it.
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My first tomato of the season from a proud member of Provincetown’s B Street Community Garden.
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Above it all in Nantucket, Flyboarding with Shearwater Excursions PUBLISHER: Dan Wolf EXECUTIVE EDITOR: Michelle Haynes Michelle.Haynes@capeair.com
10 Nantucket 38 Martha’s Vineyard
Rosemary Dooley 508.274.6755
67 Cape Cod
Bobbi Fawcett doitnow141@gmail.com
CONTRIBUTORS: Susan Biemsderfer Lisa Densmore Ballard Marti Mayne Greg Melville
72 Provincetown
Financial Wizard, Laurie Jacobson For billing inquires: Laurie.Jacobson@capeair.com
COPY EDITOR: Jim Hanson DESIGN & PRODUCTION: Chuck Anzalone graphicsgroup@comcast.net Chuck Anzalone.com © Bird’s Eye View, 2016 Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited. Advertising rates are available upon request. 410.829.1101
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OUR TEAM: Kim Corkran Kimberly.Corkran@capeair.com
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93 Maine
Nancy Woods Nancy.Woods@ BirdsEyeViewMagazine.com
124 New Hampshire/ Vermont 132 Saranac Lake, NY
Bird’s Eye View is published by Cape Air, 660 Barnstable Road Hyannis, MA, 02601
144 Montana Photo: Jon Tierney, founder of the Acadia Mountain Guides Climbing School
148 Caribbean
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PHOTOGRAPHERS
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elcome our galaxy of rock stars we call photographers. The team outdid themselves with this issue. They had one mission—show folks having summer fun, make that lots of fun. I dare you to put your finger on a photo and not say I have to be there! Enjoy their work and if you need a camera person please call on them. They work for a living and would love your business, and as you can see from their images, they are great fun to work with. Our sincere thanks for their invaluable contribution to the Bird’s Eye View. — Michelle, Nancy and Chuck
Kelly Thompson, Vieques viequesinsider.com
“When I travel to different parts of the world I always come back to the Vineyard. Living on the island for over 15 years, I find it the most beautiful place to be. Morning runs by the ocean, Menemsha sunsets, foghorn sounds, fresh seafood… priceless.”
Max Bossman, Martha’s Vineyard — maxbossman.com
Nicole Friedler, Martha’s Vineyard nicolefriedler.com
Steve Simonsen, U.S. Virgin Islands stevesimonsen.com
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“Visitors to the Adirondacks absolutely have to hike a trail or paddle along a shoreline, something without the help of a motor if they can, so they can get intimately close to the quiet and natural beauty...which is what the Adirondacks are all about.”
Mark Kurtz, The Adirondacks markkurtzphotography.com
Dan McKeon, Provincetown kale344@gmail.com B I R D’S
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Q: As a MVY lifer and lover what is the one thing visitors must do that is never found in a guide book?
Kit Noble, Nantucket NantucketStock.com
A: That’s easy and I do it all the time. Every evening Old Stone Bakery in Oak Bluffs starts making the donuts for the next day. Crowds line up to get hot and fresh “Back Door Donuts.”
Tim Johnson, Martha’s Vineyard — timjohnsonphotos.com
Terry’s favorites for a day in Nantucket: Kayaking on Miacomet Pond, or a nature walk through Squam Swamp’s self guided trail. End the day with a picnic basket to Steps Beach to watch the sunset.
Cary Hazlegrove, Nantucket NantucketStock.com
Gary Patronek gpatronek@comcast.net
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Kye Howell, Martha’s Vineyard sofocusedphotography.tumblr.com
Terry Pommett pommettphotography.com
Eliza Magro, U.S. Virgin Islands elizamagrophotography.com 9
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ff the beaten path types can rent a four-wheeler and discover the magic of Coskata-Coatue, a wildlife refuge under the protection of The Trustees of Reservations. This dedicated group preserves and protects thousands of acres across Massachusetts and allows all of us the privilege of enjoying some truly exceptional real estate. The Nantucket preserve includes dunes, coastal forests, salt marshes and tidal pools with plenty of places for swimming and fishing, sans the summer crowds. There are sixteen miles of over-the-sand vehicle routes and walking trails (no charge for walking). For over-the-sand driving permits, which run around $160, check out thetrustees.org. Recommended: If you are out here, do not miss the centuries-old Great Point Lighthouse at the extreme northwest tip of the refuge. Photos: Kit Noble/NantucketStock.com
Rent your own four wheeler when you want to be alone with the sea, dunes and gulls.
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44th ANNUAL SCULPTURE AND SANDCASTLE DAY JULY 23rd, 2016 Cary Hazlegrove/NantucketStock.com
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shovel, hard-packed sand and lots of imagination—the pure joy of sandcastle building takes on added dimension in the hands of the talented artists from the Nantucket Island School of Design and the Arts. The 44th Annual Sculpture and Sandcastle Day happens on July 23rd at popular Jetties Beach, located about a mile from downtown Nantucket. This is the total, something for everyone beach with restaurant, playground, plus windsurfing, kayak and sailboat lessons and rentals.
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Surfside Beach Photos: Cary Hazlegrove/Nantucket Stock.com
Nantucket’s public beaches—truth be told ALL the beaches in Nantucket—are public, as in free and open to everyone. No such thing as a private beach. The island is the ONLY town on Cape Cod and the Islands that can make that claim.
Take the Wave for convenience and price ($1 to $2 with half-price for seniors and kids under six). From S’conset to the beaches, to downtown, Nantucket’s public transit system accommodates wheelchairs, bikes and even your coolers and beach chairs. The handy downloadable schedule can be found at nrtawave.com. 14
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Gossipy, Historic and Fun Tours of Nantucket By Michelle Haynes
Photo: Kim Corkran The velvety voiced Betsy, a tour leader on Barrett’s Tours
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ere’s a memory: Filling those little books with S&H Green Stamps and then “shopping” in the catalogue and handing your wish list to your mother. I do not recall actually scoring a gift but do remember the glee of completing the book. Admittedly an-odd placed memory to enjoy on a meander around Nantucket with Barrett’s Tours, but when our guide Betsy pointed out the home of the S&H Green Stamps founder, off I went. The daily tour offers a few peeks behind the hedges like Band-Aid heir Seward Johnson as in Johnson & Johnson, and the Benchley home, as in the Algonquin Round Table Benchleys, and later on, one of them wrote the book that kept us out of the water for a while, Jaws. Then there is the home bought with all that catsup, belonging to Teresa Heinz. Her gorgeous waterfront haven gets a little busy when her husband is in town and the Secret Service agents are outside talking into their shirts. She is married to Secretary of State John Kerry. Their house just went on the market for $25 million. The two-hour tour around the island also includes, far from boring, historical tidbits and a few photo op stops in some of the island’s most famous locations. This is a great opportunity to enjoy Nantucket’s singular beauty and history buffs will love the stories including the stop at the nation’s oldest continuously-operating gristmill, where you will learn the origins of that old chestnut, “Three sheets to the wind.” No fair Googling it. A lighthouse primer takes you to the outer reaches of the island while you enjoy fun and informative patter from local islanders with a passion for Nantucket and a love of sharing. The two-hour tour meets downtown and for $30 you’ll learn why the Nantucket houses look the same. What is with the cobblestones? And one that may come in handy, where is the best tucked-away beach? Find Barrett’s Tours the old-fashioned way—call them at 508.228.0174.
Photo: Chuck Anzalone
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Nantucket offers a wide variety of beaches including the often wild surf of Madaket, a three mile bike ride from downtown, or you can save your energy for body surfing and take the handy Nantucket shuttle bus. Photos: Terry Pommett
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Nantucket’s Old Mill is America’s oldest operating windmill and yes, it still grinds corn. Built in 1746, the Nantucket Historical Association offers daily guided tours of the mill.
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Photos courtesy of Nantucket Lightship Basket Museum
E A S T M E E T S WE S T AT TH E NANTUC KE T LIG HT S H I P BA S KE T MU S E UM
Tomomi Kojika, Etsuko Yashiro, Maryann Wasik (Executive Director), Mary Bergman (Director), Akemi Shinoda, Hiroyo Shirotani, Yuko Morita
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Photo: Mary Bergman
oday’s women can flaunt their Louis Vuitton, Gucci and the astonishingly out of reach Jane Birkin—purses representing the ultimate in status and price, unless you happen to live or visit the island of Nantucket. How old is yours? Is that a Michael Kane or a José Reyes? Does it have a strap? Is that ivory on the top? Handed down through generations, preserved and protected, the Nantucket Lightship Basket is one of the most admired accessories on the island and is always the reliable conversation starter. “Fashions change and styles come and go but our hand-woven baskets are here to stay, and play a huge part in our history here on Nantucket,” says Mary Bergman, Director of the Nantucket Lightship Basket Museum. “These baskets give us a connection to the past while at the same time make a fashion statement recognized anywhere in the world.” Bergman’s lightship basket is actually one that belonged to her grandmother. To pass the time as they manned the island’s lightships, sailors wove simple, utilitarian baskets. What went on to become “friendship baskets” among women in the 1940s soon became a coveted red hot fashion accessory. Today the baskets have new popularity in Japan, where thousands of artisans weave beautiful baskets, six thousand miles from Nantucket.
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Basket by Mika Shiokawa, a Japanese artisan who uses traditional Japanese lacquer on the handle.
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NANTUCKET When it comes to the craft of weaving the iconic Nantucket Lightship Basket, Michael Kane is one of the superstars, a craft learned from his grandfather. Kane’s designs are coveted worldwide. Photo: Kim Parsons
Ivory and scrimshaw often accent a Michael Kane design
“In Japan crafts like basket weaving are held in high regard and the innovative work of the Japanese artisans is elevating the art of lightship baskets,” says Bergman. “When you look at a country like Japan with such a long history there is a deep appreciation of nature and the change in seasons and we are seeing that influence in the basket creations.” This summer the museum presents a new exhibit— Faraway Islands: Lightship Basket Making on Nantucket & Japan. “It is important to keep in mind that Japanese basket makers feel an affinity with Nantucket based in part on their shared reliance on the sea. In the 1840s New England whalers were the first westerners to interact with the closed country of Japan as they sailed further into the Pacific,” says Bergman. You can see this connection at the museum with the work of the Japanese basket makers along with contemporary and historic Nantucket basket makers. An authentic Japanese tea ceremony is just one of the events on tap this summer. Find the full schedule at nantucketlightshipbasketmuseum.org SUMMER 2016
Wear it on your wrist. Caitlen Parsons is the model and artist who takes the art of basket weaving to her jewelry designs, available for sale at the Lightship Basket Museum gift shop.
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Photo courtesy of Captain Tom’s Charters
Although Captain Tom admits luck plays a part in finding the fish, he and his experienced crew track tides, time of day, feeding locations, wind direction and even barometric pressure to land the fish. Photo: Kim Corkran
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Captain Tom Mleczko
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or Nantucket Captain Tom Mleczko, the excitement is in the strike. You choose the right tide, time, place, and lure and wham—the fish is between sky and water, caught at the end of the pole. And in most cases, that same fish is released unscathed back to the watery depths. “Most of our fishing is catch and release,” says Mleczko. “We like to preserve the species and the fun is in the catch, but if our guests want to take the fish home for dinner we are certainly fine with that.” Established in 1971, Captain Tom’s Charters is one of the island’s most popular charter boat operations. “Our goal is to wow people and we have done our job when they leave our boat having enjoyed a unique experience. We are fortunate to live and fish in this beautiful location and it is a privilege to be able to share this.” Charters are usually half-day, scheduled around the tides, and start at around $475. All are welcome including newbies to fishing as well as long-timers. Lots more info at capttom.com. B I R D’S E Y E V I E W
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The usual audience for the annual Nantucket Pops is 7,000. Bring a beach chair, blanket and a picnic and enjoy the Nantucket sunset. Photo: Stephen Morales
“This is It”
Kenny Loggins headlines the Nantucket Pops SATURDAY, AUGUST 13, 2016
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he largest outdoor concert on the island brings in award- winning singer/songwriter Kenny Loggins this summer. “We are really excited about the collaboration between Kenny Loggins and Keith Lockhart and the Pops,” says Nantucket Cottage Hospital spokesman Jason Graziadei. “We are lucky to have a guest artist with his talented career able to join us this year.” A major fund raiser for the island hospital, the concert happens outside on Jetties beach with ticket prices starting at $30 for adults and $10 for kids. nantuckethospital.org
Some of us remember him as the other half of Loggins and Messina. (“Your Mama Don’t Dance”) His solo career brought him superstar status with pop tunes we can all sing along with including, “Whenever I Call You Friend” and of course the toe tapper, “Footloose.”
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A seal cruise with Shearwater Excursions. Interns with the Whale and Dolphin Conservation (WDC), join many of their trips to collect valuable data for research to help marine mammal conservation efforts. Photos courtesy of Shearwater Images/Alex Perkins
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A family enjoying Shearwater’s clamming excursion and you can keep what you dig up.
rom whale watches to seal cruises, it is a family affair for the Perkins clan and their enterprise, Shearwater Excursions. For father Captain Blair Perkins the intrigue of seeing a beached whale in 1969 sent him on a career path that would forever keep him connected to the protection of these mighty mammals.
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“I love taking people out on our whale watching trips and sharing the adventure of actually experiencing these animals. I grew up here and the staggering beauty of this island and what we have to offer has never left me. Sharing and educating along with having fun is an important part of what we do at Shearwater.” In addition to front and center viewing for whales and seals, Shearwater also offers clamming on the flats and you can leave with a bucket of freshly dug quahogs for your dinner. Shearwater co-founder and wife to the Captain, Rachael Perkins says, “I love seeing both new and old faces in the summer. We have lots of folks that have been coming back year after year, joining us on our whale watch and seal cruises and now we are seeing the next generation come along.”
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Leonidas Photography It’s a family affair at Shearwater Excursions — The Perkins Clan: Rachael, Captain Alex, Renee, Captains Max and Blair Photos courtesy of Shearwater Images/Alex Perkins How close is too close? Shearwater Excursions is a member of Whale Sense, promoting responsible Whale Watching.
Blair and Rachael are also seeing their own new generation with their sons, Max and Alex, both Captains, active with the business and co-founders of a new branch of the company, Flyboard Nantucket. “Flyboarding is the newest water sport and no one else is doing this here in the east,” says Alex. “Flyboarding literally gives you the sensation of flight above the water. After a safety lesson and a bit of practice, we strap you on to a board and off you go. It is a great workout and almost everyone manages to get in the air.” Horseshoe crabs under the full moon, an eelgrass hike, seals, whales and taking flight above the water— Shearwater has it all and you can find the lineup of this summer’s adventures at shearwaterexcursions.com. SUMMER
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Up, up and away—Flyboarding on Nantucket
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Photos: Cary Hazlegrove/NantucketStock.com
Learn. Cook. Eat.
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Joy and Chef Greg take a day at Jetties Beach with their children Maxwell & Zella
e answered a small ad in the local paper and here we are,” says Joy Margolis who, with her chef/husband Greg are the operators of the brand new Nantucket Culinary Center. The help wanted notice called for someone to take on a year-round culinary facility with an educational component. The rest is a foodie dream. “With our state of the art kitchen, dining room and café we are able to celebrate the island’s rich culinary heritage in new and dynamic ways,” says Joy Margolis. “Greg loves cooking and sharing so the classes are a natural extension of what he does.” From mozzarella-making to brunch, the classes run the gamut and are wildly popular. “I am not pushing the culinary frontier,” says Greg. “We are offering good food, simply prepared and we try, as much as possible, to stay local with all of our ingredients. When I teach I try to make it fun as well as interesting and give folks dishes they can easily duplicate at home.” They are doing something right for the classes are wildly popular and instant sell outs. Conveniently located in the heart of downtown, across from the Whaling Museum, the Corner Table Café offers a fresh and healthy menu with meals to go for a day at the beach or on the bike. With a friendly, happy to see you staff, comfortable seats and free wifi, the café is now the place for the proverbial see and be seen encounters. Classes and more at nantucketculinary.com.
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“Learn how to cook, try new recipes, learn from your mistakes, be fearless, and above all have fun.” — Julia Child, My Life in France
Photo: Terry Pommett
Lattes and espresso, ice cream and healthy food choices to go or stay; make the Corner Table Café the go to place in the heart of downtown Nantucket. Free wifi for those who MUST stay connected.
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I
By Michelle Haynes (Caliri-Ristuccia) am Italian. Make that 100 percent, both sides of the family, forever Italian. Any readers like me can relate. We are incredibly fussy about our pizza. The best is in Italy and that is all there is to it.
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Photos: Terry Pommett
PIZZA HEAVEN IN NANTUCKET
That is until I found a closer solution in Nantucket. In fact, this pizza is SO good it is worth a day trip just to try it. Get yourself down to Straight Wharf to the tiny, and I mean tiny, home of Oath Craft Pizza. Perfect crust, a variety of toppings and a fun and zany staff. Borderline irreverent, one of their pizza titles we cannot put in a family magazine. You can take it to go, sit on the dock and sigh yourself into pizza heaven. oathpizza.com B I R D’S
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Photos: Terry Pommett
The Opera Cup
May the winds be with them—The Opera Cup
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or sailors or landlubbers the scene from shore is breathtaking. For 44 years Nantucket’s Opera Cup has attracted the finest sailboats in the world for the annual all-wooden single hulled boat regatta. Like many great ideas the annual race came to be following a confab of sailors in what was formerly Opera House restaurant. “Let’s have a race for wooden boats,” became a reality and the third Sunday of every August, the rainbow fleet makes the trek past Brant Point Lighthouse. Bring your morning coffee and a camera for the ultimate photo op.
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Martha’s Vineyard’s Gay Head Cliffs Do not leave the island without a visit to this iconic landmark with the aqua colored water reflecting off the red clay of the cliffs—a spectacular setting.
Photo: Max Bossman
From alpacas to sheep to the first corn of the season there are dozens of farms across the Vineyard offering fresh produce, cheese and other dairy products. Photos: Peter Simon Laid back Menemsha Harbor in the town of Chilmark is absolutely worth a visit. This is a great place to watch an active fishing port, enjoy a handful of unique shops and enjoy steaming bowls of chowder.
choosing where to go requires a little homework. The island is actually six different—and make those very different— towns. From the iconic Gay Head Cliffs in Aquinnah to the historic postcard-perfect Edgartown, each location offers a number of singular attractions. To simplify your vacation planning, make your first stop at mvy.com for a downloadable, informative guide from the Martha’s Vineyard Chamber of Commerce. Better yet, stop in their office in the heart of Vineyard Haven for info on where to go, what to do and how to get there.
In spite of Martha’s Vineyard’s acclaim as a vacation destination for the political and show biz sets, the island remains an affordable vacation escape for the rest of us. An easy daytrip, a mid-week overnight or a fall escape offering discounts on accommodations, there are lots of options, but for Martha’s Vineyard first-timers, 40
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Photos: Max Bossman
This August expect to see lots of folks in suits, talking into their shirt cuffs. He is returning for his last summer as President.
A Chappaquiddick retreat—Mytoi Gardens. Stop the world, enjoy a picnic, bring a book, a quick ferry ride from Edgartown.
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Photo: Max Bossman The annual Grand Illumination is a centuries-old tradition at the historic Tabernacle in Oak Bluffs with hundreds of glowing lanterns hanging on the porches of the gingerbread cottages. Get there early. A gigantic sing-along starts around 7:30 pm and the lanterns are lit at dark. Free to one and all. Photo: Tim Johnson
Kayla Fournier with a 13-pound lobster at the Menemsha Fish Market where they cook up your lobster and you can sit on the dock and enjoy.
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Photos: Tim Johnson The ultimate end to a Summer day-Aquinnah’s Philbin Beach beneath the Gay Head cliffs
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The magic of Photoshop caught 10 year-old Hope Davis funning on South Beach, Katama.
Photo: Max Bossman
L.A. Brown Photography Andrea Rogers with her lavender at the Artisans Festival. The where and when on the Artisan Festivals at vineyardartisans.com.
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Busted! Authorities in front of the Edgartown Jail with jugs of moonshine, circa 1930—Martha’s Vineyard Museum collection
Island Spirits, Island Life 1920-1933
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ecause it was relatively isolated the Vineyard was an exciting outpost on the coastal highway during Prohibition. There were spots all along the island coast where people would hide when the revenuers were coming to get them,” says Martha’s Vineyard Museum curator and historian Linsey Lee. The halcyon days of Prohibition are spotlighted in the museum’s summer collection which also features a look at the community swim known as the Polar Bears, a sixty-year-old Oak Bluffs tradition. Also on view this summer is an exhibit on the whaling era and a folk art collection from Chilmark fisherman Jimmy Morgan. Take some time to stroll the grounds, located minutes from the downtown summer bustle of Edgartown. mvmuseum.org Photos: Nicole Friedler
Jump for joy: museum visitors participating in a sack race outside the 18th century Cooke House. Sack races were a popular game during the Colonial Era when the Cooke House was built.
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Scrimshaw made from whales’ teeth. Photos courtesy of the Martha’s Vineyard Museum Taking a close look at whale baleen and scrimshaw made by Vineyard sailors and whalers in the 19th century. You can find out what baleen is with a trip to the museum.
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Artists and Entertainers in Intimate Settings INAUGURAL SEASON OF THE MARTHA’S VINEYARD CONCERT SERIES by Michelle Haynes
Photo: Tim Johnson What a place for a show! Martha’s Vineyard’s newest entertainment series happens at the historic Old Whaling Church in the heart of Edgartown. Built by a whaling captain in 1843, the building is hailed as one of the finest examples of Greek Revival architecture in New England. Make sure and look up at the bell tower housing the town clock.
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eurotic twitchy Eli is no more. Alan Cumming’s character from the hit series The Good Wife was, for many of us, the main reason to watch the sudsy but compelling drama, especially after Will came to a shocking and abrupt end. Cumming’s role as Eli garnered four Emmy nominations but no need to await an Eli spinoff to enjoy actor, singer, dancer, author and spicy raconteur Alan Cumming. 48
The current race to the White House should provide exciting fodder for award-winning journalist Amy Goodman, host of the global news program, Democracy Now!
He brings his considerable range of talent to Martha’s Vineyard’s newest entertainment venue, Edgartown’s historic Old Whaling Church. It is perfect timing for another notable on the bill this summer, Amy Goodman, producer and host of the acclaimed, Democracy Now! an award-winning news program airing worldwide on over 1,400 public television and radio stations. Goodman’s appearance on July 30th follows the Democratic National Convention in Philadelphia. Her vocal advocacy of independent grassroots political journalism should provide a fascinating view of the convention and the path of our current election cycle. The political theme continues with laughs and music from the acclaimed, The Capitol Steps on August 21. The group began in 1981 as a group of Senate staffers who built an act out of satirizing their congressional colleagues and bosses. Thirty comedy albums later the group remains in huge demand for their funny and “right on” bipartisan take on today’s political scene. MVConcertSeries.com B I R D’S
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Jerry Holbert
Illustration: Jerry Holbert
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“How to Succeed in Congress without Really Lying.” The latest comedy album from the hilarious Capitol Steps who pick on all sides equally. The group appears this summer as part of the Martha’s Vineyard Concert Series on Sunday, August 21 at Edgartown’s Historic Whaling Church.
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BROA DWAY @ THE PERFORMING ARTS CENTER
Summer brings Broadway’s Superstars to Martha’s Vineyard The line-up is impressive for the first-ever Broadway @ The Performing Arts Center Concert Series, including Kristin Chenoweth the original Glinda in the mega hit, Wicked; the star of Evita and the award-winning Mamma Rose in Gypsy, Patti Lupone; and Young Frankenstein’s Megan Mullally, who millions know as the vodka-loving Karen on Will and Grace. vineyardbroadway.com
Photo: Rahav Segev Patti Lupone
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Megan Mullally
Kristin Chenoweth
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M ARTHA’ S VI N E YARD Photo: Kye Howell
Tennis pro and Airport Fitness owner Connie McHugh
Pickleball Anyone?
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by Michelle Haynes
Photo: Tim Johnson Young entrepreneurs along the bike paths in Vineyard Haven
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e have an outstanding pickleball league here. It’s tennis for old people; you will love it.” Hmm; was my dear friend Vonnie trying to tell me something? Actually, to be fair, Airport Fitness, two minutes from your Cape Air arrival or departure at the Martha’s Vineyard Airport offers something for every age including the lightning speed of the Spin cycles, early morning Zumba, easy flow yoga, heavy-duty weight rooms and even a children’s dance class. “We have long-timers who have been with us for twenty years to folks wheeling in their suitcases for a workout before their flights,” says owner Connie McHugh, a member of the United States Professional Tennis Association in the Elite category, one of the highest attainable levels for tennis professionals. “Teaching tennis is one of my great loves and is what really got me started in the fitness profession,” says McHugh, who opened the club after graduating with a degree in physical education from Boston’s Northeastern University. With tennis courts, four personal trainers on staff, state-of-the-art equipment and dozens of classes, Airport Fitness is serious about providing folks with a number of ways to stay in shape and feel good. Work your tired muscles with acupuncture, massage therapy and physical therapy. The spotlessly clean facility also has a full kitchen and is available for group rental and birthday parties. airportfitnessmv.com B I R D’S
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Photo: Tim Johnson Book Fest Director Suellen Lazarus with Ta-Nehisi Coates, author of the award-winning best seller, “Between the World and Me.”
Carly Simon with daughter Sally from her marriage to James Taylor.
“…you probably think this song is about you…”
The not so best kept secret in the music biz is that Warren Beatty is one of the men who inspired Carly Simon’s colossal hit,“You’re so Vain.” Beatty’s outing is a gossipy tell-all tidbit in Simon’s memoir, Boys in the Trees, which she will read from at this summer’s Martha’s Vineyard Book Festival. “Carly is pretty candid about her sexuality,” says Book Fest Director Suellen Lazarus. “She is pretty comfortable talking about who she has slept with but she does it in such a way that it does not feel icky at all. I think her book is quite readable and I admire her for being able to share all she does about her family and her marriage. It is an incredible story.” Needless to say, Simon’s time at the podium, 54
followed by an up-close and personal book signing, will draw quite the crowd so you may want to reserve your place right now to have your book signed by the legendary singer on Thursday, August 4, at 7:30 pm. “Our venue, the Chilmark Community Center is fairly small,” says Lazarus. “Folks have a chance to see and hear from our authors in a truly personal setting.” Also featured on Sunday, August 7, at 7:30 pm is Margo Jefferson, author of Negroland. Hear her story of growing up in a privileged background in a well-to-do Chicago community. “We are thrilled to have the winner of the 2015 National Book Critics Circle Award for Autobiography in this year’s book fest,” says Lazarus. mvbookfestival.com
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— Suellen Lazarus, Martha’s Vineyard Book Festival
Margo Jefferson
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Photo: Michael Lionstar
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he daughter of a prominent doctor and his socialite wife, Margo Jefferson inhabited a world of ambition, education and sophistication, a place she calls ‘Negroland.’ She describes the social pressures of her upbringing, as well as the sense of separation that it engendered. Thus the provocative cover illustrating the schism in her life.”
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Little Bridge—An island tradition every day, all summer long
hat do you DO all winter? This is an often heard question coming to many who live full time, year round on Cape Cod and the Islands. Martha’s Vineyard photographer and year round resident Peter Simon offers his answer to the question with his new book, Martha’s Vineyard To Everything There Is A Season.”
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“I followed the yearly cycles of the Vineyard landscapes and lifestyles and chose my favorites collected from over forty years of images I have taken. I believe this is my tour de force of all the books I have ever done,” says Simon. In a true “give back” to his beloved island Simon is donating a portion of the book proceeds to Martha’s Vineyard Community Services. Peter Simon’s latest book is available at his gallery located at 54 Main Street in the heart of Vineyard Haven. petersimon.com
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M ARTHA’ S VI N E YARD Photos courtesy of Farm.Field.Sea
Gather Around—Farm, Field and Sea
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e are all about food,” says Nevette Previd, founder of Farm.Field.Sea. “We take our guests on one-day adventures to the ‘wild’ corners of the island with exciting new partners including Juli Vanderhoop to explore Wampanoag culture; the farmers at Slip Away Farm who host ‘Field to Brick Oven’ (pizza) and Eat Local Food & Farm Trail, an intimate tour of multiple farms, including a number of oyster farms, and cheese operations. We explore new foods and enjoy the delicious bounty of what the island has to offer on both land and sea.” A full line up of foodie delight events at ffsmv.com.
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Photos: Nicole Friedler Bonnie and Diane ready to greet you at the Hob Knob. And yes, they sell that hoodie in the gift shop.
‘Hobnob’
—a vintage word conjuring up Cole Porter and silver cigarette cases and making perfect sense for a luxury inn with a 100-year history. The elegant, or as Porter would say ‘swellegant,’ Hob Knob Luxury Boutique Hotel & Spa may be a century old but the luxurious furnishings and Versai linens are totally now. 60
The rooms are gorgeous with all of the amenities including TVs, air conditioning, high speed internet and, come morning, nothing continental about breakfast featuring homemade pastries, fresh fruit and a made-to-order hot entree. Bike rentals are available at the inn, which you can follow with a relaxing, soothe your muscles, spa treatment. Also included is afternoon nosh on the wraparound deck with complimentary wine and cheese for their guests. The personal service at Hob Knob is truly exceptional with the staff ready to set up island tours and give you inside tips on where to go and what to see. Open year round, find rates and availability at hobknob.com. B I R D’S E Y E V I E W
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Watering Holes for Fun
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Photos: Tim Johnson
wo Martha’s Vineyard restaurants offer a waterfront setting for the, see and be seen, set that are fun, bustling with activity and great food. Fishbones Bar & Grille, steps from Oak Bluffs Harbor is the perfect vantage spot for the comings and goings of the boat set. A View favorite, uniquely prepared, is the fried Calamari with the banana pepper aioli and the sesame seared ahi tuna. It may take you awhile to choose your beverage with choices like the Frozen Blueberry Lemonade with Triple 8 blueberry vodka, or for rum lovers, the Passion Fruit Rum Punch with Don Q passion fruit rum, and coconut white rum with a dark rum float. Lookout Tavern is another Oak Bluffs favorite with a waterfront setting where the freshly made sushi consistently wins “best on the island” accolades. You won’t miss a thing here with view of the beach and a location directly next to spectacular Ocean Park and bustling Circuit Avenue. The seafood is outrageously good here, especially the clam chowder. fishbonesmv.com — lookoutmv.com
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M ARTHA’ S VI N E YARD Photos: Alison Shaw
“The Harlem Fine Arts Show (HFAS) expands our vision of both what art is, and who creates art. The African Diaspora is vast, encompassing many cultures and people. Our show puts that diversity of creativity on display for audiences across the United States. HFAS is about educating collectors and the general public on the richness and quality of art, but it is also about economic empowerment, professional recognition and showcasing a multicultural worldview.”
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— Dion Clarke, founder of the Harlem Fine Arts Show.
he may be 125 years old but there is nothing old-fashioned about Edgartown’s stately Harborview Hotel, one of the most luxurious properties in Martha’s Vineyard. This summer the resort is hosting the wildly popular Harlem Fine Arts Show, (HFAS) the largest traveling African Diasporic* art show in the United States. The fascinating exhibit is making a return visit to the island as part of a nation-wide tour. Inspired by the Harlem Renaissance, HFAS provides a platform for African Diasporic visionaries as well as American visual artists to exhibit and sell their artwork. Work seen here by sculptor Woodrow Nash, whose work incorporates various styles and techniques utilizing stoneware, earthenware, terracotta or porcelain, Nash’s work is fired electronically, creating an “African Nouveau” trademark that’s solely his own. *the dispersion of any people from their original homeland.
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CAPE COD, MASSACHUSETTS
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America’s Oldest Summer Theatre turns 90
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A teen and her dad—Jane and Henry Fonda—at The Cape Playhouse in Dennis circa 1956. Note the plaid bag to match her plaid shirt.
he was young, unknown and worked as an usher—her name is Bette Davis. As a teenager she was allowed to perform in a small role alongside her father—her name Jane, his name, Henry Fonda. The roster of stars that launched their careers at The Cape Playhouse in the Cape Cod town of Dennis could fill the galaxy. Gregory Peck, Humphrey Bogart, Robert Montgomery, and Shirley Booth all appeared at the Playhouse in the early days of their careers and all went on to Academy Award-winning super stardom.
Photos courtesy of The Cape Playhouse
Summer Stock or Straw Hat theatre began in 1919 when it made sense to follow the audience, and as theatre goers flocked to the sea for summer vacations, young performers set up tents or makeshift stages and in Mickey and Judy style, put on a show. The Cape Playhouse is one of the few remaining original Straw Hat theatres and celebrates a 90th anniversary this summer with a special exhibit at the nearby Cape Cod Museum of Art. “We are honoring the occasion with a crossover of theatre, film and the museum,” says Museum Director Edith Tonelli. “Many of the treasures from the early days of the theatre had been stored away in trunks. It is important that we do not lose sight of the passion, determination and sense of community that continues to flourish here today.” For lovers of old Hollywood, this is a dream of an exhibit and available all summer. CCMoA.org
Swashbuckling villain to Errol Flynn’s Robin Hood and fourteen films as the original Sherlock Holmes, Basil Rathbone got his start at The Cape Playhouse in Dennis. Photo circa 1929
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CAPE COD/MASSACHUSETTS You’ll love a relaxing sailboat ride through Scenic Hyannis Harbor and Lewis Bay to Hyannis Port and Nantucket Sound. • Enjoy a fun ride, cool drinks and good food. • Pleasant onboard ambiance is friendly, informal and serene. • No canned travelogue or loudspeakers
Departures at 12:15, 2:15, 4:00 & 6:00 pm May-OctOber: 1 1/2 hour excursion: adults $35, Kids $10
www.catboat.com 508-775-0222
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TE NT I N TH E ROU N D — H YAN N I S , M A SSAC H U S E T T S Photo courtesy of the Cape Cod Melody Tent
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he dunes, beach, lobster, fried clams and a show at the Melody Tent; all Cape Cod traditions that are somewhat mandatory for both visitors and locals. Dating back sixtyplus years, the massive Melody Tent and yes, it is a true tent, seats 2,300 and offers a state-of-the-art sound and light system. In spite of the size, the theatre-in-the-round setting gives the venue an intimate feel so you never feel far from the performance. As usual, this Summer’s lineup is a doozy. Kick it up with rock, Motown, Blues, Broadway and comedy, including a group of misfit but incredibly popular puppets. Line-up at melodytent.org. Photo: David Becker-WireImage
Weed-loving liberal who is always “Politically Incorrect,” HBO’s Bill Maher takes no prisoners in his cross the aisle humor, and in spite of his passion for the cause, he never ever stops being funny, very funny. An Evening with Bill Maher—August 26 at 8 pm.
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Photo provided by artist management
“Lido Shuffle” is still going strong with singer/songwriter Boz Scaggs, former lead for one of the greatest groups to emerge in the ‘60s, The Steve Miller Band. Everyone, but everyone had a copy of his Silk Degrees album. Cool cat Boz is at the Tent on August 27 at 8 pm.
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hat traffic? Cape Air gives you a summer escape from the Manhattan skyscrapers to the White Mountains of Lebanon, New Hampshire and the dunes of Cape Cod and the Islands of Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard. Take yourself to the corner of 35th Street and 8th Avenue to pick up your private ride to the Cape Air’s counter at the Westchester County Airport in White Plains, New York. You can book the entire trip online at capeair.com or reach out and touch a Cape Air reservations agent at 1.800.cape.air.
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THE CAPE COD NATIONAL SEASHORE
“The stakes were in the ground with development imminent”
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—Cape Cod National Seashore Superintendent George Price
Photos: Chuck Anzalone
he year is 1961 and the miles of rolling green hills laced with a winding stone wall and a window to the Atlantic were moments away from bulldozed development. What is known as Fort Hill, along with 40,000-plus additional acres of dunes and prime waterfront property was forever saved from development by a determined group of government officials led by President John F. Kennedy and Congressman Tip O’Neill. What is known as the Cape Cod National Seashore, under the protection of the National Park Service, (NPS) spans the length of the lower Cape, a short drive from your Cape Air arrival at Provincetown’s airport. “Our charge is to preserve and protect the resources here at the Park while at the same time ensuring access so visitors can take advantage of what the Park has to offer,” says George Price, Superintendent of the Cape Cod National Seashore. “Our major priority today is to reach out to the next generation including young people, especially those living in the inner cities. We need to offer young folks an alternative to video games and introduce them to what we have to offer here in the Park. Hiking, fishing, the dunes, the ocean, the incredible views, all help with our emotional and mental well-being. We have places here that can take us out of our daily lives and truly transport us, giving us memories and experiences that will last a lifetime.”
Do not miss the chance to tour historic Penniman House. Built in 1867, the prosperous sea captain’s family lived in the house for almost a century.
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20 16 NATI O NAL PAR K S C E NTE N N IAL
Photo: Dan Mckeon
Photo: Chuck Anzalone
Ranger Jody Anastasio, North District Interpreter and Cape Cod National Seashore Superintendent George Price
On your Fort Hill hike take a moment to climb the ‘Sharpening Rock’ and yes, it is labeled. This glacier leftover was used by native people to sharpen arrows and knives. SUMMER 2016
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A spectacular walk to the sea, park your car on the side of Route 6 next to the Snail Road exit. Bring lots of water, socks (hot sand) and a lightweight lunch. The reasonably fit can do it in less than forty minutes.
Photo: Gary Patronek
Photo: Jesse Mechling Hatches Harbor, Provincetown—walk to the far end of the Herring Cove Parking lot and to avoid a long walk, keep an eye on the tides.
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TRADITIONAL TOURS
Daily Tour (1 hr) Spectacular Sunset Tour (2 hr) Race Point Lighthouse Tour (1.5 hr)
NEW ADVENTURE EXCURSIONS LAND ‘N LAKE (Includes Lunch~ 3.5-4 hr) LAND ‘N SEA (Includes Dinner) LAND ‘N SAIL (4.5 hr)
ART W/ART’S (6 hr–Tues/Fri Morning only) SATURDAY NIGHT SUNSET SPECIAL (3 hr) SUNRISE AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHY TOUR (3 hr–Mon/Wed only)
CELEBRATING 70 YEARS! Family-Owned & Operated Since 1946
508.487.1950 • 1.800.894.1951
VISIT OUR SITE FOR MORE INFORMATION
www.artsdunetours.com Tours based on 4 person minimum/weather permitting
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Serving food 11 am - 11 pm 186 Commercial Street, Provincetown 508 487 7555 www.local186.com mc/visa, amex & cash Reservations for parties 06 or more
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Not to be missed— PROVINCETOWN’S BOATSLIP
Photos: Dan McKeon Dance as if no one is watching at the Boatslip’s daily tea which has nada to do with a beverage, at least not tea. Non-stop dancing happens every day 4 to 7 pm, and if you like to dance with total abandon with a fun loving, non-judgmental gang of folks, this is the place. It is mostly gay but all are welcome. For oldies lovers there is a weekly classic tea playing everything from Motown to the hits of the 60s and 70s and 80s.
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hat’s happening at the Boatslip Beach Club in Provincetown is totally dependent upon the time of day. In the morning it’s quiet time with Will Coons Yoga on the Boatslip deck, overlooking Provincetown Harbor (free to Boatslip guests).
For the rest of the day it is sun and swim with hundreds of chaises lined up, turning like a sundial to catch the maximum rays. The pool and sea are steps away. Come 4 pm, the Boatslip moves into high gear as Tea Dance takes over (nothing to do with tea). Meet, mingle and dance yourself silly until 7 pm. Everyone, but everyone goes to Tea. Gay, straight, trans, whatever; the dance floor embraces anyone who loves to dance or watch those that do. There are a number of themed Teas all summer including one that is a perennial sellout—an homage to Madonna (of course). Morning, noon and night, the Boatslip is pure P’town escape from it all, fun. The waterfront hotel is totally renovated. Check out the new look to the rooms at boatslipresort.com. B I R D’S
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The Inn at Cook Street A Greek Revival Inn located in America’s oldest continuous art colony
7 Cook Street Provincetown, MA 02657 www.innatcookstreet.com (888) COOK-655
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(508) 487-3894
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Like Nowhere Else By Michelle Haynes
Art’s Dune Tours, circa 1946
Photos: Gary Patronek
Before you decide to take off on your own to traverse the Provincetown dunes, take advantage of the only guided motorized tour with Art’s Dune Tours. These guides truly know the “dune story” and it is quite the tale. You can also take advantage of their many specials including a sunset feast of lobster or chicken enjoyed at the edge of the Atlantic or an afernoon kayak.
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This piece of driftwood marks THE only “street marker” in the dunes. If you get lost, go here.
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he year is 1946. Maternity wards are busy with the dawn of the baby boom, new homes average $5,600 and Americans are spending 15 cents a gallon to fill their gas tanks. That same year, Art Costa, a member of the Portuguese community in the tiny Cape Cod town of Provincetown, Massachusetts, looks at his ten-year-old Ford “Woody” station wagon, and at the towering sand dunes bordering the town and forms a plan. Seventy years later Art’s Dune Tours continues to flourish and the little boy who tagged along on his Dad’s truck now runs the only dune tour operation in Provincetown. “It never gets old for me,” says Rob Costa, “I love sharing the wonder of the dunes that stretch as far as the eye can see. Visitors are always amazed at what we have out here, the vistas of wispy beach grass, dark green pine trees and deep red beach plums nestled in hollows ending at the Atlantic Ocean. We always take time to point out the dune shacks, inspiration for a number of famous artists and writers including Eugene O’Neill and Tennessee Williams.” B I R D’S E Y E V I E W
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Photo courtesy of Art’s Dune Tours You never know who you will meet in the dunes. Taking the tour is Secretary of State John Kerry with dune tour owner Rob Costa (next to the Secretary) and his husband-to-be Rob Papa Photo: Rob Costa
Costa has taken his father’s tours a lot further offering clam bakes, sunset tours with a champagne toast and a number of special excursions including something he calls Land ‘N Lake, a half-day in the dunes coupled with kayaking on a spectacular nearby lake. This time of year Provincetown is hopping with packed streets and nonstop entertainment but to really appreciate the extraordinary singularity of this magical town, do not miss an opportunity to stop the world in one of the most beautiful settings imaginable. artsdunetours.com SUMMER 2016
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Here’s to the Ladies Who Sing… Photo: Autumn de Wilde
Photo: Grace Rainer Long
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Annie is all grown up—Andrea McArdle
he little girl that won our hearts tugging on Sandy’s leash and looking forward to Tomorrow, is all grown up and continuing to wow audiences as a powerhouse performer. Award-winning actress/singer Andrea McArdle, Broadway’s original Annie is enjoying a successful career with a list of credits that includes her own PBS special, Cabaret’s Sally Bowles, Éponine in Les Misérables and in Jerry’s Girls with Carol Channing and Leslie Uggams. Two chances to experience this extraordinary performer this summer at the Crown & Anchor, August 8th and 9th at 8 pm with prices in the $60–$100 range. onlyatthecrown.com 82
Bess, Billie and Lizzie—she has played them all and has shelves of awards to prove it—Audra McDonald
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ver at the venerable Provincetown Town Hall the extraordinary six-time Tony award-winner Audra McDonald returns to town following her acclaimed and heartbreaking performance as Billie Holiday in Lady Day at Emerson’s Bar & Grill. The Juilliard-trained actress/singer had them hanging off the Town Hall balcony last year so reserve your seat this very minute, one show only, August 21. ptownarthouse.com
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Melissa Manchester
er career began as a back-up singer for Bette Midler before she zoomed to the top of the charts with recurrent hits that turns boomers into back-up singers whenever her music plays on the car radio. Don’t Cry Out Loud, I Wanna Be Where You Are and, co-written with Kenny Loggins, the classic Whenever I Call You Friend, Grammy award-winning singer/songwriter Melissa Manchester’s music defines a generation. She makes her only Cape Cod appearance this summer at the intimate Madeira Room at the Sage Inn and Lounge on August 20, 21 and 22 with tickets priced at $50 to $100. shawnnightingaleproductions.com
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Food Network star performs every night in Provincetown Photo courtesy of the Food Network Chef Michele Ragussis competing on the TV cooking show ‘Comeback Kitchen’ “The best Lobster Mac n’ Cheese on the planet.” — Dan McKeon
Award-winning Chef Michele Ragussis “Scallops of sheer perfection” —Michelle Haynes
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he pressure of cooking under the lights in front of millions pales in comparison to keeping the kitchen humming on a busy summer night according to Food Network star Michele Ragussis, the reigning chef at Provincetown’s Crown & Anchor Restaurant, who recently completed her second stint on the popular cooking network. “I have to say what happens in the kitchen is much harder than TV, where you are pretty much on your own. In a busy restaurant you are trusting folks to cook your food, and I admit I can be a micro-manager. You have to ensure every dish leaving the kitchen is perfect and also take the time to greet folks in the dining room, but I have to say I love cooking here in New England. From farm to the sea, with every change in the season you have the freshest of produce and seafood. I love it when the striped bass and bluefish start running.” Ragussis brings her Sicilian/Greek roots to her dishes and is most proud of a long-time family recipe personalized with her own touch, Linguini with Clam Sauce. “I turn up the heat on my grandmother’s recipe and I am happy people are loving it. We take the time to make everything from scratch, including our pasta. We are preparing serious food here at the Crown and I have to say as a chef it is flattering to have people finish their meal and hear them exclaim, ‘Oh, this is SO good!’ That is why we do what we do.” The winner of the Food Network competition was still under wraps by the View deadline, but whatever the results, you can enjoy prize-winning creations every night at the Crown & Anchor. The word is out on this, so reservations are a good idea. onlyatthecrown.com B I R D’S E Y E V I E W
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“before or after dinner etc.”
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iza, Pink, Tina Turner and Gladys Knight all on stage at the Crown & Anchor’s Cabaret Room this Summer. Or are they? Check out Illusions, the longest running drag show in Provincetown this Summer.
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ver at the Central House, enjoy nosh and libations with singer/pianist Bobby Wetherbee. The song has not been written that he doesn’t know. Broadway classics and the Great American Songbook are the forté of this consummate entertainer.
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Here Come the Brides: Provincetown on the World Map with All-Girl Mass Wedding By Susan Biemsderfer
Illustration: Brendan Lahey
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t started out simply enough. Ilene Mitnick and Allison Baldwin of Provincetown, Massachusetts wanted to renew their vows. Two sets of vows, actually: One from their civil union in 2004; the other a Connecticut marriage in 2009. Maybe they would invite a few friends for a quiet ceremony at their place—which happens to be award-winning bed and breakfast Roux, charmingly tucked away in the town’s East End gallery district Who were they kidding? These two adore a big party. As a duo of former corporate marketers, Mitnick admits they can’t resist branding the things they love. “We can’t do anything without a logo or tag line attached to it.” It didn’t take long for the couple to brainstorm in unison and come up with the meticulously branded Bride Pride, an all-girl mass wedding and Guinness World Record attempt. Yep, if they can get 100 lesbian couples to tie the knot simultaneously, they will set the first-ever Guinness mark for such an event. That’s why on any given weekend this summer in Provincetown, you may see rainbow-veiled “bridal angels” on the main drag, Commercial Street, announcing the October 15 nuptials. The vows will ring out at the height of Provincetown’s legendary annual gathering, Women’s Week, October 10–16. There will be all the conventional wedding niceties at a fraction of the expense. “The average wedding costs $30,000, maybe more,” explains Baldwin. “And we wanted to make it really affordable.” Those tying the knot Guinnessstyle only have to budget $50 for the Town Clerk and $150 for an event fee, plus the cost of a room (Roux only has six, so that love will be shared with 86
other B&Bs). There’s a three-day marriage license waiting period, so brides will arrive early enough to take in Women’s Week and a “fun and funky” wedding shower sponsored by Aspen Gay Ski Week. After their vows on Roux’s sprawling front lawn, newlyweds will be ushered down Commercial Street with the town in autumn splendor as their reception and honeymoon venue. A wedding video is in the works, naturally—including drone aerial shots. And a wedding singer! Word on the street is that it will be an A-lister who’s part of the Cyndi Lauper-founded True Colors Fund, a group working to end homelessness among lesbian, gay, bisexual, and transgender youth. The bouquet? Well, how about a donation instead? On behalf of the newlyweds, Bride Pride will be B I R D’S
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Doreen Birdsell Photography
Photo: Susan Biemsderfer
Alli and Ilene—Bride Pride organizers and owners of the Roux B&B
making a donation to GLAD (GLBTQ Legal Advocates & Defenders)— with gratitude for the group’s work that has made so many same-sex marriages possible. “Whenever we get caught up in all the details, we just think of all that love,” says Mitnick. And in retrospect, maybe they should have seen Bride Pride coming. After all, the couple’s first guests in 2013—after purchasing and restoring the stunning 1870s Victorian that is Roux—were honeymooners, women married the day before in Boston. A village of construction crews had just exited the building, and in walked “our first guests, brides.” With visions of 200 brides, the “Roux Deux” kicked their PR sweep into high gear on Memorial Day with a VIP reception featuring The Real L Word reality television star Whitney Mixter. Dozens of local business “Love Sponsors” have come on board for $100 apiece to help back the event, as calls from fiancés flow in to townie-owned salons, florists, and such. Some of those inquiries are likely from overseas, with Bride Pride media sponsors helping to spur international interest in the event. But wait, there’s more! Officiating the ceremony will be award-winning humorist Kate “Mad Vow” Clinton, who’s headlining in town this summer with her latest show, “Wake Up Call.” There’s no official word yet on how Clinton, an ordained Universal Life Church minister, will make her grand entrance, but the rumor mill is churning (and if a construction site’s cherry picker gets rented out for the day… just sayin’). “A cherry picker? Well it’s about time, dammit,” quips Clinton, who’s been bringing her irreverent wit to Provincetown audiences for three decades. “And 100 couples all at once? Very efficient.” Rest assured, the tender side of the wedding day will not be lost on the good minister, who led an impromptu rally at Provincetown Town Hall last June after the U.S. Supreme Court made its historic ruling legalizing same-sex marriage. “In the home of gay marriage, it will be a very sweet day,” observes Clinton—a nod to the fact that Massachusetts was the first state to legalize same-sex marriage in 2004. SUMMER
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Whoa, did you say Kate Clinton? “Kate Clinton, how lucky are we! How much hooting and hollering can you take from two old ladies?” That’s Kathy Thornhill chiming in on the phone from Akron, Ohio, where she and fiancé Sue Dye recently registered online for Bride Pride. The two retired school teachers were first “married” in 1990 by a Unitarian Universalist minister on the beach in Provincetown. “P’town was the only place we could be free,” says Dye. “We lived a closeted life, but not anymore” adds Thornhill. “We’re not sad about it, we’re just happy to be doing this now.” Meanwhile back at Roux with the wedding planners, there’s just one more question for the brides. Are they excited for the honeymoon? “We’ve been honeymooning for 26 years!” (said from Akron in unison— a lot of that going around). And this time, ladies, it will be official. For more on Bride Pride, go to rouxprovincetown.com.
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HAPPY BIRTHDAY Photo: Kristi Rugg
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By Lisa Densmore Ballard
his year marks the 100th anniversary of the National Park Service (NPS). What a celebration it’s going to be! Each of the 409 national parks has planned a myriad of special events commemorating the centennial, and Cape Air flies to destinations within a two-hour drive of many of them. Actually, they’re not all called “national parks”. The NPS also manages our national monuments; scenic trails, rivers and waterways; battlefields; and historic sites. Some are iconic large landscapes brimming with wildlife such as Yellowstone National Park near Billings, Montana. Others preserve our historic and cultural heritage, such as the Statue of Liberty in New York City and the St. Louis Arch. Did you know the historic center of Boston is one of the NPS’s national historic parks? Find Your Park. The point is, there’s a national park for everyone, no matter your background, interests or location. To help you figure out where to go, the NPS recently introduced a new website, FindYourPark.com. You can also share your experience on the website after visiting a park. The Find Your Park program is one of the NPS’s key Centennial initiatives aimed at recruiting the next generation of park-goers. “Our national parks are a collection of who we are as a people,” says Jonathan Jarvis, Director of the NPS, “They preserve and define the values that unite us and serve as a beacon of hope to the rest of the world. One of the goals of the Centennial is to create the next generation of park advocates, particularly millennials, age 18 to 34. What they care about, they’ll take over responsibility for. Baby boomers were taken to the parks by their parents. We need millennials to take their kids, too.” 90
Every Kid in a Park. The NPS wants to attract a younger, more diverse population of visitors, not all of whom want to trek into the wilderness, take a fish off a hook or watch a bison roll in the mud, at least not on their first visit. Toward this goal, last September, the NPS launched another cornerstone of its centennial, the “Every Kid in a Park” program. Available through an on-line voucher, this nationwide initiative allows fourth graders throughout the United States to receive a free park pass similar to the annual pass which normally costs $80. While children under age 15 are normally admitted for free into the national parks, their Every Kid in a Park pass also allows complimentary entry for the rest of their family, adult friends, caregivers, teachers and anyone else who might take them to a national park. In addition to a dedicated website, EveryKidinaPark.gov, the NPS is working with the Department of Education to reach out to teachers to B I R D’S
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Photo courtesy the National Park Service
NATI O NAL PA R K S !
Yellowstone National Park
Photo courtesy the National Park Service Photo: Kim Corkran
Though implemented as part of the NPS’s Centennial celebration, Every Kid in a Park is not a one-year program. It will continue year after year. After a decade, an entire generation of kids will hopefully have spent time in our national parks and formed an affinity for them. Every Kid in a Park Program intends to recruit a large percentage of one generation over time, another Centennial program means to attract people of every generation. Because the NPS turns 100 years old this year, it will waive entrance fees to all national parks on these specific days: Yellowstone’s Old Faithful
not only raise awareness about the program, but also offer grants through the National Park Foundation to help pay for field trips to nearby units within the national park system. “For cash-strapped schools, the grant program will help provide money so they can use our parks as an outdoor learning laboratory,” says Alexa Viets, Centennial Coordinator for the NPS, “We picked fourth graders because they are still in one class with one teacher who takes them on field trips. They’re old enough to understand conservation at a basic level, and they’re open and excited about learning.”
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August 25-28: The NPS’s 100th birthday September 24: National Public Lands Day November 11: Veterans Day If you’re thinking of visiting a national park, this is the year to do it! Whether you seek fantastic wildlife viewing and scenic vistas or a history lesson on a Civil War battle, you’re sure to have a memorable experience. 91
20 16 NATI O NAL PAR K S C E NTE N N IAL Photo: Jack Ballard
CAPE AIR GETS YOU THERE!
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hen you step off your Cape Air flight, here’s a sampling of the national parks and historic sites just beyond baggage claim, depending on where you land: Bar Harbor, ME: Acadia National Park Billings, MT: Yellowstone National Park, Pictograph Cave, Pompey’s Pillar Boston, MA: Adams National Historical Park, Boston National Historic Park, Salem Maritime National Historic Site, Boston Harbor Islands National Recreation Area, John F. Kennedy National Historic Site; Minuteman National Historic Park; Frederick Law Olmstead National Historic Site Cape Cod, MA: Cape Cod National Seashore Ft. Lauderdale, FL: Everglades National Park, Biscayne National Park Glendive/Sidney, MT: Theodore Roosevelt National Park (ND) Guam: War in the Pacific National Historic Park Lebanon, NH/Rutland, VT: Appalachian National Scenic Trail, Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller National Historic Park (farm) New York, NY: Statue of Liberty, Castle Clinton National Monument, Theodore Roosevelt Birthplace; Federal Hall National Monument; General Grant National Memorial; African Burial Ground National Monument; Hamilton Grange National Monument (home of Alexander Hamilton) San Juan, Puerto Rico: San Juan National Historic Site St. Louis, MO: Jefferson National Expansion Memorial (arch), Ulysses S. Grant National Historic Site U.S. Virgin Islands: Buck Island Reef National Monument, Christiansted National Historic Site, Salt River Bay National Historical Park and Ecological Preserve and the Virgin Islands National Park.
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An award-winning writer and photographer, Lisa Densmore Ballard contributes to numerous regional and national magazines from her home in Red Lodge, Montana, a gateway to Yellowstone National Park. LisaDensmore.com B I R D’S
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Acadia National Park Photo: Jon Tierney
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BAR HARBOR, MAINE AC AD IA NATI O NAL PAR K
Photo: Kristi Ruggs Acadia National Park, Maine Photo: Jon Tierney
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Photo: Kristi Ruggs
Not all of us are ready to scale the side of a mountain, but Acadia also offers miles of level and easy trails and carriage roads where your feet stay on the ground at all times and the scenery is still breathtaking. Photo: Howie Motenko
“You can do it!” Jon Tierney, founder of the Acadia Mountain Guides Climbing School, in the heart of Bar Harbor, says they can teach anyone to scale the rocks. Tierney is the only fully certified and internationally licensed International Federation Mountain Guides Association guide working regularly in Maine. In 2007 Acadia Mountain Guides became the first school in New England to achieve accreditation by the Profession Climbing Instructor’s Association. acadiamountainguides.com SUMMER
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Many scenes like this along the Acadia carriage trails
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Photos: Dobbs Productions/Bar Harbor Chamber of Commerce After a day of hiking, shopping and what have you, enjoy an old fashioned band concert, free to one and all, on the Village Green in the heart of Bar Harbor.
There are many ways to tour Bar Harbor, the Wild Iris Farm carriage tour is one of them.
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Lost trails restored in Maine’s Acadia National Park By Michelle Haynes
From the city to the wide open plains—put people to work and build the nation’s park system was the mission of the New Deal‘s Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) circa 1935
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etween 1933 and 1942 they were the face of FDR’s New Deal. Three million men from across the nation were put to work as part of the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC). These young men received food, shelter, clothing and a job that paid them about $30 a week. They reforested the parks of America by planting an estimated three million trees; they upgraded roads and bridges and went on to build a network of pathways and hiking trails. Take a hike in one of the country’s National Parks and you are apt to come upon a small faded plaque with the words, “Built by the CCC.” Many of the original trails in Maine’s Acadia National Park were built in the 1930s by these hardworking members of the CCC but as decades passed and Mother Nature took over, most of the old hiking paths disappeared. The good news is they are back and this Summer is a perfect time to get out and discover a bit of history in a spectacular setting. The Friends of Acadia raised the funds and took on a fifteen-year project to restore the old trails, and visitors can now enjoy hikers’ delights like the Perpendicular Trail, where you face a climb up 1,000 hand-cut stone steps. The Schooner Head Trail is another re-opened trail taking you along a three-mile forest trek before ending at a 100 foot sea cliff. There are dozens of trails to choose from so make your first stop the Friends of Acadia website at friendsofacadia.org and check out a few of the staff favorites which include: Homans Path on Dorr Mountain; Acadia Mountain; Beech Cliff and Giant Slide Trail. If you want to cool off in one of Acadia’s watering holes, the Friends give a shout out to both Echo Lake Bluffs and The Bowl on the Beehive.
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Photos courtesy of Friends of Acadia Acadia’s restored Perpendicular Trail, where you can get your heart rate going with the climb up 1,000 hand-cut stone steps. The payoff is the view. Photo: Chuck Anzalone
Popovers and fresh lemonade in the only eatery in Acadia National Park, the Jordan Pond House. Since the 1890’s the restaurant’s famous menu has attracted a worldwide fan base.
Do not leave the park without trying the popovers and take a moment to pick up a box of the popover mix. They are amazing and I guarantee if you hide the box no one will know you did not make from scratch. Lunch reservations are somewhat vital for this place is truly popular. If you need more inducement the ice cream is homemade. Reservations at 207.276.3316. SUMMER
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Tea for two or more in Bar Harbor By Marti Mayne
“I love meeting the tea farmers on their native soil, learning about the teas from them then bringing a taste and touch of their culture back to our Bar Harbor customers.” —John Benson, Tea House 278 Photo: Marti Mayne
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The ultimate tea travelers—John and Lynn Benson
alk through the gates to Tea House 278 and your journey to Zen begins. On your right water streams through the rock garden’s falls into the Buddha pond filled with goldfish. To the left is the pensive garden, offering the ideal place for a quiet repose. Suddenly the rush and noise of Bar Harbor’s downtown diminish and a serene tranquility wraps you in its arms.
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Ready to greet you is owner, Lynn Benson, that is if she’s not in China meeting with farmers. On the main floor you’ll find a retail store offering a wide variety of teas and teapots along with the tasting room. Tea House 278 is a respite for tea lovers. In fact, tea drinkers here are encouraged to sit and savor their teas for as long as they wish. Only Puer (pronounced Pu-war) teas are served; meaning tea here is found loose and in round packed chunks, not bagged individually. One can’t help but wonder how a tea house arrived on Main Street, Bar Harbor. “It was a common moment of insanity,” agree co-owners Lynn and John Benson. “We were on a trip to China, enjoying tea with a 75-year-old tea master and we both came to the conclusion at the same time,” agree the Bensons. The house had been in their family for some time, and the Bensons weren’t sure how best to use it. The tea house and gallery seemed the ideal use for the home. Fly Cape Air to Bar Harbor, explore the bustling downtown or Acadia Park, celebrating its 100th birthday this year, then finish your day with a visit with a smiling Buddha and a knowledgeable tea master. Online purchasing at Teahouse278.com. B I R D’S
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$30.00
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ASTICOU AZALEA GARDEN Northeast Harbor’s little touch of Zen By Marti Mayne
Photo: Marti Mayne
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nspired by a love of native plants, George K. Savage, a Northeast Harbor lifelong resident and owner of the Asticou Inn at the head of Northeast Harbor, built the Asticou Azalea Gardens in 1956. Today, just as Savage intended, as you follow the path that leads through a number of “garden rooms”, you’ll be transported for the few minutes you’re there into a Japanese garden and a peaceful world where nature reigns. It’s a place that inspires serenity, introspection and beauty both inside its viewers and outside in nature. Throughout the summer, the Asticou azalea gardens are in bloom from early summer to the irises and blooming water lilies later in the season. The “sand garden” found after crossing the stream over what could be considered “the stepping stones of life” (easily crossed) offers raked sand offering a feel of flowing water with islands of rock. Throughout the gardens great care has been taken to combine man-made with natural, and the use of color appearing throughout these peaceful gardens may be intentional but captivatingly natural too. Find your little place of Zen when you fly Cape Air to Bar Harbor and visit the Asticou Azalea Gardens in Northeast Harbor.
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Maritime adventure on the quiet side of Acadia with Sail Acadia by Marti Mayne
The Helen Brooks Under Sail
W Captain Karl Brunner aboard a Friendship Sloop
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Andrew Sims/Wavelength Studios
hen Karl Brunner was just nine years old growing up in South Bristol, Maine, the Alice E, a 42-foot Friendship Sloop originally built somewhere near Friendship, Maine, was going through a complete retrofit. If you’d told Karl then that this beautiful boat might someday be part of his fleet he would probably have shaken his head and said it was a pipedream. Yet today, the Alice E is one of three boats that make up the Sail Acadia fleet. Originally built in 1899, she is the oldest Friendship Sloop still working today. Along with two other boats Sail Acadia, operated by Karl Brunner, offers the ideal way to experience the quiet side of Acadia. And Karl is living his dream. Capt. Karl loves to tell the story about how his grandmother helped him start his Downeast sail charter business. When she got wind of his business plan, Karl’s grandmother helped him out with the purchase of his first Friendship Sloop which Brunner explains with a smile now bears her name, the Helen Brooks. The third boat in the fleet is a working lobster boat. The Elizabeth T is a 21-passenger vessel built right in Mount Desert Island out of local wood. You’ll cruise her up the Somes Sound Fjord and have the chance to haul B I R D’S
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Photo: Onne Van Der Wal
a lobster trap, plus get up-close-and-personal with local sea and bird life aboard this boat. The Elizabeth T is often chartered for private parties. When he sets sail from Southwest or Northeast Harbor, Capt. Karl goes with the wind. No two cruises are the same, with variations in weather, passengers, and sea life contributing to the fun. Everything from engagements to lobster bakes on the beach are possible. Just speak up and ask when you book your trip. Out on the water you’ll see osprey nests, seal colonies and just once a whale was spotted out by East Bunker Ledge! First built in Friendship, Maine, the Friendship sloop is known as Maine’s original lobster boat. It was not uncommon to see lobstermen hauling traps while under sail along Maine’s coastline in the early 1900s. Their rugged yet traditional maritime history fit in well with Acadia National Park’s 100th anniversary, and offer up the perfect way to explore the maritime adventure of Mount Desert Island. sailacadia.com
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Lisa Hall Studios makes Sea Glass Shine By Marti Mayne
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hat one person casts away, Northeast Harbor’s jeweler, Lisa Hall, turns into treasures. Lisa’s gemstones are the glass bottles discarded overboard and collected as tumbled sea glass along the Maine shore. A long time sea glass collector, Lisa Hall spends her days transforming her glass into colorful and stunning necklaces, earrings, and bracelets. While she has the enviable job of walking the beaches of Downeast Maine a few times a week, much of her summers are spent at a jeweler’s bench working with gold and silver to transform the former mason jars, wine and soda bottles into a cache of jewelry with no two pieces exactly alike. Since no piece of glass is ever cut or altered, a pair of earrings requires patience until two nearly identical pieces can be found. And since the wind and water ebbs and tumbles each piece of glass differently, each piece from the Lisa Hall collection is assured to be unique.“This is years of sea glass; some from when I was a child,” Lisa explains as we approach a bench filled with piles of color-coordinated sea glass. Just as it feels for her, Lisa explains that sea glass appeals to
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her customers’ sensibilities.“Those who know it, love to own it memorialized in a beautiful piece of jewelry. Those who’ve never seen it before are captivated by its color and the naturalness of it,” Lisa explains. Whether its visitors coming to Northeast Harbor to browse her shop or designers like Martha Stewart who’ve given celebrity status to Lisa Hall with accolades for her work, Lisa Hall’s collection offers wide appeal to those who are lucky enough own one of her creations. lisahalljewelry.com
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The Kimball Shop and Boutique: I’ll take one of everything By Marti Mayne
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rom the outside, the Kimball Shop is enticing, but walk through the door and you’ll be pretty sure you’ve just landed in the housewares and gifts Land of Oz. The name gives no clues to what you’ll find inside. We quite frankly think they should rename this the “I’ll Take One of Everything” shop. Room after room of tablewear, kitchenwear, silver, gifts, apparel, toys, soaps and lotions, purses…you name it, you’ll find it here. If you can wear it, eat with it, cook with it or play with it, you’ll probably find it here. And the store goes on and on seemingly forever. Shopping for a wedding gift? Save your shopping until you take Cape Air to Bar Harbor then visit Northeast Harbor. Brides – you’ll want to register here too. And like us, you’ll be thinking “I’ll take one of everything”. Two doors down is the Kimball Boutique, offering up trendy and classic apparel and accessories. Once again, make sure you have plenty of time to browse. kimballshop.com
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BLUE HILL PENINSULA, MAINE Photos: Tim Henderson
Jazz Tuesdays at the Pentagöet Inn features specialty cocktails, nibbles and jazz tunes.
The Pentagöet Inn: A Step Back in Time By Marti Mayne
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tanding at the dock in Castine, Maine take a glance up Main Street and one building will stand out. The golden Pentagöet Inn’s turrets are easy to spot amidst the all-white buildings lining Main Street. Built in 1894, The Pentagöet Inn was Castine’s first summer hotel, and this Queen Anne Victorian, with its signature wraparound porch and gardens, remains a landmark for Castine visitors. The inn’s 16 guest rooms are filled with exquisite vintage pieces discovered and often re-purposed by inn owners Jack and Julie Van de Graf. “We wanted the inn to be vintage authentic with charm,” Jack explained. “But not stuffy or exclusive; simply relaxed and the perfect respite,” finished Julie. Yet, beyond the Victorian allure of yesteryear, the inn’s signature draw is the food. Celebrated for its farm-to-table fare, by all accounts the Pentagöet offers up some of the best fine dining in the region. Julie serves as Executive Chef, with a keen eye on elegance and simplicity. Open through late October, you simply can’t pass through Castine without a stop or a stay at The Pentagöet Inn. Pentagoet.com
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Photo: Marti Mayne Photo courtesy of The Manor Inn
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By Marti Mayne astine is one Maine coastal town where culture collides with coastal cool breezes in one not-to-be-missed stop up the Maine Coast. A favorite place to make your Castine home base is The Manor Inn, offering everything from fine dining with a global flair to apartment-sized guest rooms offering a view from the loo. Innkeepers Tom Ehrman and Nancy Watson lace great hospitality with a nice mix of guns and yoga. He’s a locally renowned gunsmither and firearms safety instructor and she’s a certified yoga instructor and both have studios at the inn. Together they combine the yin and the yang for one fabulous stay in Castine. manor-inn.com
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BLUE HILL PENINSULA, MAINE
Castine’s Manor Inn
Tune into Blue Hill THE BLUE HILLS ARE ALIVE WITH THE SOUND OF MUSIC. Who’d think that such a small Downeast town would be an enclave for such amazing musical treasures? Musical talent and resources perform in harmony in Blue Hill, a beautiful seaside Maine town, and when you fly Cape Air from Boston it’s an easy day trip from Rockland or Bar Harbor.
Bagaduce volunteers index, preserve, catalog, copy and distribute the sheet music to borrowers who hail from all 50 states and 27 countries around the world.
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Photos: Marti Mayne
By Marti Mayne
Executive Director, Martina Herries and her staff welcome visitors to visit the Bagaduce Music Lending Library and take home a bagful of printed music.
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hat started as a road trip for two friends in an RV borrowed from legendary folk singer, Noel Paul Stookey of Peter, Paul and Mary, grew into an idea housed in a barn that is now the Bagaduce Music Lending Library, the largest music lending library in the world. The collection has grown to a staggering one million pieces of music with 250,000 individual titles. One look around the library is enough to send even the least musical person into a treble tizzy. The sheer volume of printed sheet music, rare pieces, books, collections of historic music covers, and tenacity of the dedicated team here makes one want to jump in and get involved. bagaducemusic.org B I R D’S
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A summer of chamber music Concerts, Open Rehearsals, Master Classes
Kip Brundage photo
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Main Street, Castine, Maine 207-326-9116 – castine@saltmeadowproperties.com Main Street, Blue Hill, Maine 207-374-5010 – bluehill@saltmeadowproperties.com
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kneisel hall chamber music festival
BLUE HILL PENINSULA, MAINE
Kneisel Hall Chamber Music Festival By Marti Mayne
Kneisel Hall Chamber Music School & Festival
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nown as “the cradle of chamber music teaching in America,” Kneisel Hall is one part camp and nine parts intensive chamber music study in Blue Hill, Maine for talented students and faculty from throughout the world. Indeed, student after student who got their start here testify that this single experience changed their lives. What’s Kneisel Hall? It’s a young musicians chamber music school coupled with a chamber music festival held each summer in Blue Hill. Fly to Bar Harbor on Cape Air and you just might find yourself transported into a new musical realm by attending chamber concerts here. Super focused on strings only, 50 budding and talented violinists, cellists, violists and pianists are admitted to the Young Artists Program for an intensive seven-week program. A separate Maine Student program pairs intermediate and advanced string and piano students from Maine with one of the Young Artists in a mentoring program. And there’s even an intensive Kneisel Hall program for adult amateur musicians too. Throughout the summer performances of talented students and faculty are open to the public. The Summer Chamber Music Series performed by the Kneisel Hall faculty and guest artists take place on Friday nights at 7:30 pm and Sunday afternoons at 4:00 pm from late June through September 11th. Additionally, each student session ends with a free young artists performance, 112
Photo courtesy of Kneisel Hall Chamber Music School & Festival
offering even more chances to enjoy chamber music in Blue Hill in the summer. And the master classes throughout the summer offer the opportunity for a free audience-attended event where an ensemble performs before a guest master-teacher. The master-teacher offers his or her insights on the piece giving performers another artist teaching opportunity, and offers the audience a rare view into the teaching and music-making process. It doesn’t stop there. From late June through early August, a different young artist quartet plays for the children in free concerts each week at the Blue Hill Library too. The school’s history started in Bucharest, where violinist Franz Kneisel studied at the Vienna Conservatory. In 1885 this extraordinary musician came to New England to become concertmaster of the Boston Symphony Orchestra at the ripe age of just 20 years-old. When Kneisel arrived in Blue Hill in 1889 the town was already an enclave for summering musicians. After building a home overlooking Blue Hill Bay, Kneisel started a summer music school in his home to give talented students the opportunity to learn and perform, founding the mission of today’s program. In 1922 when the original school became too large for Kneisel’ s home, a new hall was built beside Blue Hill Mountain and that has been the center of school’s activities ever since. Order tickets online and learn more about all schedule performances. kneisel.org B I R D’S
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PENTAGÖET INN & RESTAURANT CASTINE, MAINE
Award Winning Lodging Fine Food and Wine Storied Village by the Sea 207-326-8616 www.pentagoet.com 26 MAIN STREET, CASTINE, MAINE
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PE NOBSCOT BAY ARE A , M AINE Photos courtesy of The Maine Lobster Festival
…“You will not be forced to eat lobster more than three times per week”… Back in the day, indentured servants had written contracts that clearly limited the amount of lobster they would be “required” to eat. Considered trash food in colonial times, it took until the 1800s before the tasty crustaceans gained acceptance as the ultimate luxury dining item, usually coupled with champagne for a celebratory meal.
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How many lobster recipes can one conjure up? You can taste for yourself at the lobster cooking contest.
ots of bragging rights as to where the sweetest and tastiest lobster are found but Maine’s cold clear water and rocky coast, along with a robust and organized lobster industry, keeps Maine lobsters a perennial favorite on the best lobster lists. An estimated 124 million pounds of lobster were pulled from Maine waters last year, contributing to more than half of all lobsters caught in the United States.
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This summer, lobster lovers should hop on a Cape Air flight between Boston’s Logan Airport and the Knox County Regional Airport, located in the heart of lobster country, for Rockland’s five-day Maine Lobster Festival, August 3-7, for a total homage to all things lobster. The events are pretty much nonstop including a giant parade, live entertainment (still TBA at press time but Tower of Power performed last year) a cooking contest and of course, lobster served every which way for your dining pleasure. It is an understatement to say the Lobster Festival is a draw. As Fats proclaims, “The joint is jumpin” with thousands of lobster lovers. Find a complete line-up of events at mainelobsterfestival.com
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The Lobster Fest Crate Race is one of the most challenging and popular events of the Festival.
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Cape Air’s Art in Flight Cape Air’s Cessna 402s by famed airbrush artist Jürek
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PE NOBSCOT BAY ARE A , M AINE Photos courtesy of Owls Head Transportation Museum
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reased lightning motor heads and lovers of vintage aircraft should not miss two popular events happening this summer at the Owls Head Transportation Museum, located just minutes from your Cape Air arrival at the Knox County Regional Airport. On July 9 and 10 custom-made vehicles are on display as part of the Hot Rod, Custom & Muscle Car Cruise-in and Antique Aeroplane Show. The two-day event includes vehicle demonstrations, motorcycles, dirt track racers, free Model T rides and, if the weather cooperates, antique airplane demonstrations. Anyone arriving in a pre-1996 vehicle of any kind gets free admission. Look to the skies for the Wings and Wheels Spectacular on August 6 and 7 for a line-up of World War II aircraft and aerobatic performances. Classic cars also play a major part in this annual event knows as “The Rally.” A lot of wings and wheels fans out there as the event draws a crowd of five-thousand-plus, so you best get there early to get ahead of the throngs. owlshead.org
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MONHEGAN ISLAND A Summer Escape Who needs a gym? Monhegan Wellness with Tara Hire offers daily yoga, hikes and fitness classes in a setting like no other.
Photo: Michael Brassard Steps from the ferry, this is downtown Monhegan Island. (not kidding) You can literally land here in less than two hours, door to island, from Boston’s Logan Airport. Don’t we all need al little of this?
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iking trails in and around the craggy cliffs, sweeping vistas of the Atlantic and the only night sounds are the waves sending you to sleep and acting as your wake up call in the morning. Welcome to magical Monhegan Island.
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Photo: Romee May
Located ten miles off the coast of Maine, the drive to the picturesque fishing village of Port Clyde is about a thirty minute ride from your Cape Air arrival in Rockland, Maine. From there catch the ferry for a short ride to Monhegan and step into a little fishing village that is now a haven for artists, writers and even the Hollywood set. Actor Josh Mostel, son of the legendary Zero has a summer home here. Lovers of history will have no end of things to explore thanks to the Monhegan Historical and Cultural Museum which, in spite of its tiny size, was voted Yankee Magazine’s 2016 Best of New England Editors’ Choice for Best Small Museums. There are art galleries around every corner and when it comes to food make a beeline up the hill to the elegant and historic Island Inn where the lobster and seafood are pulled from the waters right outside the door. Breakfast, lunch or dinner, their food is out of this world. B I R D’S
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Monhegan Blow Dryer…
207.596.0371 www.islandinnmonhegan.com
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Photos courtesy of the Camden Opera House
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“We call ourselves “the small theatre with the big heart,” serving over 25,000 patrons each year, providing a dynamic presence in downtown Camden. Our lovely air conditioned venue is on the National Historic Register yet stunningly renovated and technologically up to date, making us the venue of choice for many entertainers.”
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—Kerry Hadley, Manager of the Camden Opera House
ae West, Tallulah Bankhead, Lillian Gish. Oh, if the silk-covered walls of the Camden Opera House could only talk. Legends of the screen dating back to silent movies and beyond have all graced the stage of the elegant theatre that after many years of work is restored to its former grandeur. When built in 1894, the opera house was the tallest building in Knox Country. On your Camden wanderings take a moment to visit this Victorian treasure. If you plan it right you can take advantage of one of the shows. The line-up that defines eclectic is at camdenoperahouse.com.
LOVERS AND MONSTERS— July 21. Not your usual cabaret show
What is described as a musical theatre/cabaret mash-up stars Kristyn Murphy and Abbie Stands, whose national tour is garnering rave reviews. What sounds a bit like an Ed Sullivan-style variety event, the show features Broadway tunes as well as pop, Celtic, original songs, and a touch of Vaudeville as the duo weaves a story of our daily encounter with lovers and monsters. (Admit it, we all know a few.)
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BLUES LEGEND JAMES MONTGOMERY—
September 4
A thirty-year career with no sign of slowing down, Montgomery’s performance is one of the most dynamic blues performances on the scene today. In addition to his own band, Montgomery has joined forces with everyone from Kid Rock to Gregg Allman, as well as Lynyrd Skynyrd and Charlie Daniels and the Outlaws. No doubt the venerable Camden Opera House will be rocking for this performance.
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MAINE, MIDCOAST & THE ISLANDS
Photo: Sally Farr
AN EVENING WITH NOEL PAUL STOOKEY— September 3
Spanning generations, Noel Paul Stookey is the ‘Paul’ in one of the most famous folk trios in the world—Peter, Paul and Mary. With the death of Mary in 2009 Stookey is finding success as a solo artist performing in venues around the country. His act is described as funny, thoughtful, both irreverent and reverent, as well as compassionate and passionate.
AMERICA’S MOST POPULAR HIKE
THE APPALACHIAN TRAIL
Author Lisa Densmore Ballard on her favorite section of the Appalachian Trail, New Hampshire’s White Mountains. Behind her is the Lakes in the Clouds Hut, a hiker’s respite for food and lodging.
Photo: Jack Ballard
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ne of the longest continuously marked footpaths in the world.” That description comes directly from the Appalachian Trail media page. The word “footpath” sounds like a simple walk in the woods cavorting with flora and fauna, but talk to anyone who has made the 2,190 mile thru-hike; the name for the whole shebang from Georgia to Maine, and the reality is quite different. Bud Schultz, from Hingham, a Boston suburb, calls it one of the most challenging things he has ever done. “I lost 40 pounds. I was hungry 24 hours a day for four and a half months and at least ten to fifteen times on the trail I realized I needed to be extra careful for the going was truly dangerous.” The obvious question for Schultz: Why do it?
The summit of Katahdin, Maine, the northern end of the Appalachian Trail. The photograph was taken just after the original sign was put into place on August 19, 1933.
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Photos: Appalachian Trail Conservancy
NEW HAMPSHIRE/VERMONT
Photo: Sunrise, a fellow hiker given this trail name because she always hikes by sunrise Solo hiker Bud Schultz completed the entire 2,190 mile thru-hike in four and a half months and lost 40 pounds along the way. Here he is on top of Charlies Bunyan, and yes, that is the name, a rugged ridge along the trail between Tennessee and North Carolina—elevation 5,600 feet.
“I am driven by challenge and I also had a compelling reason to finish. I run a non-profit and if I managed to finish the trail we would bring in about $400,000.” The aptly named non-profit is Tenacity, whose mission is to incentivize Boston kids who may have other ideas to stay in school and go on to college which is exactly what 80% of the kids in the program manage to achieve. We should mention Tenacity earned a top nod from Charity Navigator for using donor dollars in a fiscally responsible way. Tenacity.org Although Schultz made the entire trek, the reality is most hikers take on a portion of the Trail either as a day hike or as author Lisa Densmore Ballard writes about, staying above the clouds in her favorite Trail section in the New Hampshire/Vermont area. “You can access the Trail in minutes from Cape Air in Lebanon, New Hampshire. It is spectacular and you can stay above the tree line and enjoy some pretty amazing views. You can also make reservations and hike hut-to-hut so you actually have a hot meal every night and breakfast in the morning. This is a great way to enjoy the trail safely. Hiking in pairs or preferably three, enough food and water, a good map and letting people know where you are and when to expect you back are all keys to enjoying the Trail and making sure you are safe.” Excellent info is available at appalachiantrail org. SUMMER
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APPAL ACHIAN TR AIL Photo courtesy of Frank Masi/Broad Green Pictures
Bill Bryson’s true and poignant story of his Appalachian Trail hike was made into a popular movie. A Walk in the Woods starring Robert Redford and Nick Nolte. As you will see in the movie, now on cable, Cape Air got in the act with a part in the movie. Photo: Trish Lorino
On location with A Walk in the Woods.
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HARTLAND • Federal reproduction sited on 13.4+/-acres to take advantage of long-distance views. Easy access to nearby trails and roads just a few steps out your back door. 2.8 miles from Woodstock Village & 15 minutes from I-91. $849,000.
WOODSTOCK • 3BDRM/2BA colonial style home on 1.13+/– private acres with pastoral mountain views, an active brook and 1 mile from Woodstock Village. Home offers open floor plan, spacious kitchen & 4-season sun room. $435,000.
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Willamson-Group.com • 802.457.2000 Successfully Selling Real Estate For Over 40 Years 24 Elm • Woodstock VT • Each Office is Independently Owned and Operated
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Around the Corner & Around the World
VERMONT/NEW HAMPSHIRE Photo by Tim Johnson Cape Air Captain Armando Garcia with one of Cape Air’s “Art in Flight” aircraft by famed airbrush artist Jürek.
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AN ADIRONDACKS ESCAPE By Greg Melville
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Photo courtesy of saranaclake.com
he Adirondack Park in New York is big. Really big. Much bigger than you probably think. At 9,375 square miles, it could swallow all of Vermont. Or New Hampshire. Or the states of Delaware, Connecticut and Rhode Island combined. You get the picture. Yet the total population within this vast, protected patchwork of public and private wilderness is only about one-fifth the size of Boston’s. What fills the rest of the space? Jagged, cloud-popping mountains, more than 3,000 lakes, and 30,000 miles of streams—all connected by 2,000 miles of footpaths. At its heart is the Village of Saranac Lake, population 5,000. It occupies a place in the upper torso of the Adirondacks where the park’s network of watery veins and arteries converge to form a mesmerizing collection of alpine lakes. From here, the region’s lifeblood truly does seem to flow. The town is a haven for vacationers who rent cottages along the lake shores, outdoor adventure seekers, and artists drawing inspiration from the wild landscape. It’s also a surprisingly accessible weekend getaway, despite its remote feel. The biggest challenge for a two-day visit is deciding what to do on a limited schedule, or whether you just want to laze around and do nothing.
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Friday evening: Get comfy. Popular for its comfort food, the Blue Moon Cafe is shaded by a distinctive blue-and-white awning and occupies a prime spot among the art galleries, shops, bars, and realtor’s offices on Saranac Lake’s Main Street. For an appetizer, try its home-baked Rondack Bread, topped with greens and Italian cheeses. A favorite main course is the Chicken and Shrimp Chimichurri, which must be washed down with a locally brewed Saranac Pale Ale.
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Photo: Mark Kurtz Photo courtesy of saranaclake.com
Saturday morning: Make waves. Saranac Lake actually sits on four lakes— Hart Lake, which fringes the downtown, and Upper, Middle, and Lower Saranac lakes. These bodies of water are just the starting points for visitors looking to fish, paddle, swim, or boat. Venture a few miles out of down and the options rise exponentially. Adirondack Lakes and Trails Outfitters rents and sells kayak, paddleboard, and canoe equipment, and shuttles customers to and from the put-ins on the local waterways. The company, which has been in business for 26 years, also offers guided trips, including a popular evening kayak tour, and will organize self-guided expeditions.
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THE ADIRONDACKS, NEW YORK Photos courtesy of saranaclake.com
The local Art Walk features live performances the third Thursday of every month in the summer, but you can easily conduct your own. Start at the Adirondack Artists Guild on Main Street and grab a directory highlighting the studios of more than 50 local artists and performers.
Saturday afternoon: Stroll. Saranac Lake was established as a lumber town in the early 1800s. Fifty years later, in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, it became a world-renowned treatment destination for tuberculosis patients, who believed the area’s cool mountain air carried curative powers. Many of the Victorian-style multi-story structures built along Main Street during this boom time still stand, complete with “cure” porches. Over the years, the people of Saranac Lake have fought fiercely to maintain downtown’s historic charm. After the local Ames department store closed in 2002, Wal-Mart tried to take its place and build a 120,000-square-foot supercenter. Locals fought the retail giant, fearing its potential effect on momand-pop retailers, and decided to create their own locally owned department store by ponying up the money themselves, at $100 a share. The result was the Saranac Lake Community store (community-store.org) on Main Street. 136
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Photos courtesy of saranaclake.com
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THE ADIRONDACKS, NEW YORK
Saturday evening: See a show. The impressive Pendragon Theatre hosts performances of Amadeus in July and Baskerville: A Sherlock Holmes Mystery in August.
Sunday morning: Crepe, then escape. You’ll find some of the finest breakfasts— and views—in town on the riverside patio at the French-style bistro Left Bank Café, on Broadway downtown. Their chocolate croissants are a local favorite, but since you’re in the land of maple trees, you shouldn’t pass up their specialty maple syrup crepes. Once you’re carbo loaded for the morning, take a hike. Your options are as varied as the personalities of the surrounding High Peaks mountain range of the Adirondacks, punctuated by 5,343-foot-high Mount Marcy, the tallest summit in New York. If you plan to stay close to town, I’d recommend either Haystack Mountain (6.5 miles, out-and-back) in the adjacent village of Ray Brook or for a shorter excursion, Mount Baker (1.8 miles round trip). Adirondack Lakes and Trails Outfitters provides directions, maps, and more information.
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THE ADIRONDACKS, NEW YORK Photo courtesy of saranaclake.com
Sunday afternoon: Take a dip. Unwritten rule: If you visit a town with the word “lake” in its name in the summer, you have to go swimming at least once. Lake Colby beach is probably the closest spot to the center of town, down Route 86 toward the town of Paul Smiths. The three-mile-long lake is a popular kayak and paddleboard destination, but never gets crowded. It’s also a great place for pondering how, exactly, you can extend your Saranac Lake visit. Photo: Mark Kurtz
Where to stay: Absolutely Adirondacks is a collection of four cabins—two on an island accessible only by boat—and two on the shore of a quiet pond in Saranac Lake. Decorated in true Adirondack style, from the pine paneling and bark-covered exposed timber beams to the woodsy furnishings, the properties will coddle you in rustic style. absolutelyadirondacks.com 138 B I R D’S E Y E V I E W
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Photo courtesy of saranaclake.com
Your Saranac Lake vacation.
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Thinking Small—The Tiny House Phenomenon By Greg Melville
Photos: Mark Kurtz
The interior of each tiny house can be customized to the buyer’s preferences and range between $60,000 and $80,000. “People are really into the intimacy of something that’s custom built for them, and knowing that the project won’t get away from them and cost more than they originally thought.” — Bill Plumb, Adirondack White Pine Cabins
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ill Plumb thinks small. He and his son Joe hand-build single-family, 399-square-foot pine cabins from a workshop in the Adirondacks. He concentrates on constructing affordable, immensely sturdy and diminutive homes that can be transported by trailer. His company, Adirondack White Pine Cabins, is part of the growing “tiny house” movement, appealing to people who want simpler, less cluttered—and more sustainable —alternatives for their lives. Plumb’s main customers are a mix of emptynesters, young single professionals, retirees, and vacation property owners who want an easy-to-maintain cabin in the woods. 142
The tiny house movement gained traction around 2007 when the financial and housing crisis drove Americans to look for less expensive alternatives to traditional houses. Though the movement is still small, it has recently spurred two popular TV shows, Tiny House Nation and Tiny House Hunters. The 66-year-old Plumb insists that he was never inspired by the tiny house movement—nor was he even aware of it when he started the company in 2002. The concept behind Adirondack White Pine Cabins came to him while on vacation in Gatlinburg, Tennessee. At the time, he had just retired from 21 years of running a not-for-profit home healthcare agency. “I was at a point where I had accomplished what I wanted to do in life, and I didn’t know what I was going to do next.” He was staying at a campground of tiny cabins in the Smoky Mountains that sat on wheels, and struck up a conversation with the owner. Plumb asked him what materials were used for the cabins. “He told me, well, it’s Adirondack white pine,” Plumb recalls. B I R D’S
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Defined as being less than 500 square feet in size, and transportable on wheels, tiny houses are built by conventional construction techniques and materials, and are intended to last as long as—if not longer than—typical wood-framed homes.
When he got home to the Adirondacks he decided to start making similar, simple white pine cabins that would be easy for buyers to transport. Plumb had worked with power tools his entire life, and had restored old homes in his free time, so the transition came naturally. Business is booming. Most of his customers are in the Adirondacks, but his cabins have traveled as far as Pennsylvania and Maine, and phone calls from potential customers come from all over the country. The idea of expanding is tempting but for now, at least, he’s still content with thinking small. adirondackwhitepinecabins.com SUMMER 2016
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MO N TA N A Photo: Jack Ballard
Mannequins enhance the scene inside a perfectly preserved Chinese laundry, a thriving business in a town of primarily male railroad workers.
HAVRE BENEATH THE STREETS
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By Lisa Densmore Ballard
Photo: Lisa Densmore Ballard
Photo: Jack Ballard
tanding by the entrance to the Frank DeRosa Railroad Museum in Havre, Montana, I don’t notice anything special about the sidewalks until Mary Schubring points out several dozen purple glass squares imbedded in the concrete. A resident of Havre for over 40 years, Mary is my guide on a tour of Havre Beneath the Streets, an historic underground museum. “It’s to let light in. The glass used to be clear, but it turned purple over time due to the manganese in it,” she explains, “Did you notice how wide the sidewalks are?” I hadn’t, but now that she points them out, they do seem exceptionally wide, like sidewalks in New York City. Havre is a far cry from the Big Apple. Located on the Glass embedded in the sidewalk allows light into the subterranean town. Hi-Line, the nickname for the Great Northern Railway across northern Montana, Havre is the half-way point between Minneapolis and Seattle. As the rails were laid in the late 1800s, Havre grew into a rough-and-tumble town, a melting pot of railroad workers, wranglers, whores, thieves and bootleggers, with a population of 3,500. “The sidewalks are hollow underneath,” continues Schubring, leading me into an alley next to the museum, “In 1904, a couple of drunks didn’t like a saloon owner. They set fire to the saloon, but it was windy. They burned the whole town. 60 buildings! After the fire, the entire business district moved underground.” I follow her down a stairwell as if heading into the basement of a building and step through a time warp. Instead of a dank cellar, I’m inside a perfectly preserved general store. Cans of vegetables, a vintage wood-framed radio 14 4
The author examines a prehistoric looking contraption that is actually a dentist chair, circa 1900. She’s glad she has no cavities!
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Photo courtesy of Havre Beneath the Streets Museum Meat from this underground family-owned butcher shop was a dietary stable in Havre during the early 1900s.
and a feather duster are poised for purchase. A telephone “desk” stands at the ready, as if waiting for the operator to return from a coffee break and insert wired pegs into the myriad of holes, connecting callers to each other. Schubring leads me through the mercantile into a passageway. Moments later, we emerge in the Sporting Eagle Saloon. The bar is little more than a thick board lying across two large barrels. Playing cards and unbranded liquor bottles are scattered around the half-dozen tables. “Do you know what the word, “sporting”, in a saloon’s name means?” quizzes Schubring as I gingerly seat myself on a rickety wooden chair and pick up a couple of the cards, “It’s a place where men can find sporting women. Prostitutes. At the time of the fire, Havre was almost entirely male. Women didn’t want to live on the prairie back then.” We move on, down another short tunnel into an oversized room filled with steel-framed double-beds, a bordello. Numbers are painted on the walls around the room. I stop by bed #18. A woman’s silver-backed brush lies on a nearby bureau, as if its owner will use it later this evening. “Twenty-seven women lived and worked here,” explains Schubring, “The going rate was $.25, which was a lot for men who earned $2.00 a day. The number on the wall indicated who lived there. The ladies moved around a lot and didn’t want the men to recognize them… When a prostitute got too old or too full of venereal disease, she was told to go to the local opium den and ask for an overdose.” The opium den is later in the tour, part of the SUMMER
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underground laundry which is also a bathhouse, typical of the era. For the Chinese who ran the laundry and worked on the railroads, subterranean living helped keep them safer during an era of rampant prejudice against immigrant workers. “This entire block is connected and built to hide in,” says Schubring, “You could live your life down here and never see daylight.” We continue through a tack room containing the saddle of “Long George” Francis, a horse thief known as much for his tall skinny physique (6 feet 6 inches, 190 pounds) as his illegal practices, then through a blacksmith forge and meat market and into the office of Christopher “Shorty” Young, the owner of the bordello and a notorious bootlegger. Young was the boss of Havre during its underground heyday, but a shotgun leaning against his sizeable desk and a secret passage behind a moveable wall hint at the tenuous nature of his far-reaching dealings. The tour also includes a barbershop, a drug store, a mortuary and a lawyer’s office, where the Corpus Juris books contain such titles as Mayhem to Money Laundering and Libel and Slander. “Havre was born bad,” says Schubring, as we climb another stairwell and emerge into the sunlight a half-block from the railroad museum. It stayed that way until 1944 when Shorty Young died. Today, Havre remains a railroad town with over 10,000 residents. On the surface, it looks like other western prairie towns of similar size. However, it’s what’s under the surface that’s truly fascinating. havrechamber.com 145
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A patient reunion—Boston MedFlight patients giving thanks to their caregivers and rescue team.
he out to sea locations of both Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard offer the get away from it all, escape sought by vacationers but the remote geography can present a challenge for urgent medical care requiring transport to Boston hospitals. Boston MedFlight offers services which can mean the difference between life and death or between debilitating injury and the hope for recovery,” says MedFight spokesman Tom Hudner. For over three decades the nonprofit rescue operation has provided emergency medical transport for visitors and residents completing an average of ten transports every day, and over 3,500 a year. MedFlight specifically provides critical care transport, the highest level of emergency care, handling 146
Photos courtesy of Boston MedFlight
BOSTON MEDFLIGHT—YOUR LIFE. OUR MISSION
the most extreme health conditions. “Roughly one-quarter of our transports, as well as one-quarter of the two to three million dollars in free and unreimbursed care provided each year, are for patients from Cape Cod and Islands,” says Hudner. In addition, Boston MedFlight also covers care to cities and towns throughout New England. For more information on how to lend your support to these selfless folks at Boston MedFlight check out bostonmedflight.org. B I R D’S
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Oprah’s Number One Author—Jacquelyn Mitchard By Michelle Haynes
Photo: Janet Kay
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he gave away cars, trips and sent careers skyrocketing. No question, in 1996 Oprah Winfrey ruled the airwaves as the most powerful woman on television, as first-time author Jacquelyn Mitchard found out when La Oprah chose her novel, The Deep End of the Ocean as her first selection for Oprah’s Book Club. “I had no idea of the impact,” says Mitchard. “My first clue was on the same day of the broadcast when the New York Public Library called to tell me there were four thousand people on the waiting list for my book!” On the top of the New York Times best seller list, millions of copies sold, and translated into thirty-one languages, The Deep End of the Ocean also made it into the movies starring Michelle Pfeiffer. Jacquelyn Mitchard was riding a wave of fame and fortune. With a new husband and a combined household of nine children, the timing was perfect. Then the bottom fell. An unscrupulous investor, now in jail, wiped out her entire fortune—bank accounts, college funds, everything. Thirteen years after the success of her first book, the Mitchard family was on food stamps, struggling to pay the mortgage. “I used to have a great deal and today I have a great deal less. We are getting through this. I am proudest of my children. They had a big house and opportunities to do fun things and we entered a life where every penny had to be counted. They rely on each other rather than on material things. It was a stunning setback to my life and when Oprah called this year and wanted me to talk about it I have to admit I was reluctant. I felt embarrassed and a little ashamed, but she made me realize that I was the victim of a crime and I have since heard from so many people who share the same story. We did survive. It was a bit like falling on the ice. We got up and I do think I am a better person for having fallen.” Released this year, Two If by Sea is the first book Mitchard has written since the loss of her fortune. She believes the depth of her protagonist’s loss and grief is reflection of what she and her family endured. From the opening tsunami in Brisbane, Australia, to a horse ranch in the west, this is a corker of a read. Go to your local bookstore—please take the time and support independent booksellers—order this great book, and settle down in a beach chair for one great ride.
Jacquelyn Mitchard
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VIEQUES
Naomi Ailleen, dance instructor for the Brittany Dance, Film and Theatre Foundation in Vieques. Photo: Kelly Thompson
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A guided snorkeling tour with Blackbeard Sports. Photo: Cristina Von Essen
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his is the ahhhh… time on the Puerto Rican Island of Vieques. The snow birds are gone, and although the island is one of the more laid back in the Caribbean, come summer time it can get a whole lot quieter. What doesn’t change are the miles of perfect beaches, free and open to everyone, the outside cafés overlooking the water and the Bio Bay one of the brightest in the world and a natural phenomenon that should not be missed. Check out Bio Bay tours with the award winning Bird’s Eye View favorite—Blackbeard Sports. Blackbeardsports.com Do not forget to ask them about Women’s Dive Day on July 16, 2016.
U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS
Viva la France! By Michelle Haynes
Photo: Dean Barnes
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Photos courtesy of the Bastille Day Kingfish Tournament
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ack in the day… way way back in the day, sailors from Brittany and Normandy made their way to the New World, and pulled up anchor in what we know today, as the United States Virgin Islands. This band of French sailors settled in St. Thomas and generations later their descendents are still here in their own enclave, appropriately called Frenchtown, located just outside the bustling St. Thomas town of Charlotte Amalie.
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Another group settled in the northern end of the island. Thus, as it is in France, Bastille Day is an epic holiday in St. Thomas celebrated around the Annual Bastille Day Kingfish Tournament on July 17. This 28th annual event is one of the “Top 10 destinations to celebrate this French National Day,” according to Hotwire.com. “We invite everyone—anglers who have fished with us for many years, newcomers, local residents and visitors alike—to fish this year or come down and enjoy the tournament’s festivities at Hull Bay Hideaway. There will be live bands, local foods and activities for the kids,” says Catherine Bryan, one of the tournament co-directors. “In addition to a great celebration, the centerpiece for anglers is a chance to win over $13,000 in prizes—including $2000 cash for the fisherman or fisherwoman who reels in the largest kingfish, says tournament spokesperson Carol Bareuther. Keep in mind, no need to fish. You can just get yourself down to Hull’s Hideaway for the after celebration of food, drink and dance.
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Photos Courtesy of USVI Dept. of Tourism
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ST. JOHN
Photo: Eliza Magro
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hen you daydream about a Caribbean Island St. John matches the fantasy. Miles of powder white sand, crystal blue-green water and, with two-thirds of the island protected parklands you have miles of hiking trails to explore. Your arrival begins in bustling Cruz Bay, the arrival point for your ferry from St. Thomas. The hourly schedule and a cruise time of less than twenty minutes make St. John a perfect day trip. To get you started stop in at the National Park headquarters located a few minutes from your ferry arrival. Rangers can set you up with hiking maps and directions to your closest beach, which on St. John, are never far away. SUMMER
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t. John’s Annaberg Sugar Mill ruins provide a favorite backdrop for one of the island’s busiest wedding photographers, Eliza Magro.“ Mrs. Olivia Christian, a 4th generation St. Johnian, is the baker at the ruins,” says Magro. “Here she demonstrates traditional ‘dumb bread’ making for groups visiting the ruins.” “My mom and my grandma made ‘dumb bread’ as a daily chore, Christian said. I enjoy keeping the dumb bread making art form alive, to pass on to other generations.” A hard crusty bread, one meal of dumb bread a day could feed a family.” Christian added.
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t. John’s Honeymoon Beach is located within the Virgin Islands National Park, which means it is ours, and is one of 7 beaches that make up the Caneel Bay Resort. To avoid the $20 parking fee, pack a lunch and plenty of water and hike to the beach along the Lind Point Trail starting at the National Park Visitor’s Center in Cruz Bay. It is a doable hike about a mile each way, but do not try and do it in flip flops. Sturdy sneakers are a lot easier as the trail is rocky. You will be not disappointed with one of the more exquisite beaches in St. John.
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BIRD’S EYE VIEW PICK – ST. CROIX’S CRUCIAN GOLD Photos: Steve Simonsen
Tying knots of gold and silver has become Crucian Gold’s signature, also called the love knot bracelet.
Feel the love at Crucian Gold
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s you meander in and around the dozens of jewelry shops found in the Virgin Islands it is evident the silver and gold creations are more art than simple accessories. No exception are the one of a kind pieces made with the finest metals and incorporating meticulous craftsmanship found in the family owned and operated Crucian Gold in St Croix’s Christiansted, home of the “Knot.” Tying knots of gold and silver is Crucian Gold’s signature design along with use of the islands natural resources including wood, coral, and conch pearls and something called “Chaney” made up of broken china shards found around St. Croix. The latter is a sure fire way to ensure your bracelet is not only unique, but also somewhat historical. If you cannot get to the islands you can find a Crucian Gold selection at cruciangoldjewelry.com
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‘Slow Down, you Move too Fast’
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Chef Kenneth Biggs, a guest chef at Ridge to Reef in St. Croix.
he feeling groovy part of the Simon & Garfunkel tune may be dated but the message to slow down is resonating loud and clear, especially when it comes to food. Nate Olive of the Ridge to Reef Farm in St. Croix pays homage to slow food and communal dining with the farm’s popular, slow down dinners. “We connect food, place, and gastronomic delights,” says Olive. “We pair our chefs with the best in local, organic, free-range food and locally hand-crafted wine. The dinners are held at our certified organic farm and the entire experience is a true adventure, from driving past the beaches, up on to the mountain, to the farm itself, before ending the night with an after-dinner fireball party.” Photos: Tim Olive
Dining in the St. Croix rain forest—August 7th and August 28th Slow Down Dinner Experience at the Ridge to Reef Farm. Top chefs, farmers and guests enjoy a six course, farm to table experience featuring local organic crops and pasture raised meats, with local wines. $60 per person and reservations are a must. 340.220.0466 160
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irgin Gorda’s legendary resort, the Bitter End Yacht Club, takes on a Latin vibe this summer for the annual Sea & Salsa Festival featuring San Juan’s famed superstar chef, Roberto Treviño of Budatai Restaurant. “It is a privilege for me to be involved with the team at the Bitter End,” says Treviño. “This is one spectacular event attracting hundreds of boaters taking over all of the moorings and joining us for a feast of great food, music and dancing combining Puerto Rican culture with the traditional Caribbean Mocko Jumbies and fire dancers.”
Chef Roberto Treviño
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BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS
Summer brings Puerto Rico to the British Virgin Islands
BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS
Bitter End Yacht Club, Virgin Gorda
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BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS
Photo Courtesy of BVI Tourism
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SHOES OFF
SHOES ON
REGULAR SECURITY LINE
TSA PRE-CHECK EXPRESS LINE
Cape Air Joins TSA Pre ® 3
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By Peter Kokoszka, Cape Air’s Managing Director, Distribution ou’ve probably heard the news reports—more passengers are traveling our nation’s skies than ever before, sending TSA security screening checkpoints into overdrive. One solution to help move you along is the TSA Pre3® and our great news is Cape Air, in partnership with our technology provider Amadeus, is the first U.S. regional airline to participate in the TSA Pre3® program. We are also the first carrier using the Amadeus reservations system to be included in this time-saving program. For those already a member of TSA Pre3®, Global Entry, NEXUS, or SENTRI, you can now provide your 9-digit PASS ID, also known as a known traveler number (KTN), when making a Cape Air reservation online at capeair.com or with online booking websites. You also have the option of calling 800.CAPE.AIR or your professional travel agent. Once you are confirmed as TSA Pre3® eligible, your information is embedded in the barcode and the “TSAPRE” indicator shows on your Cape Air boarding pass. You may use the TSA Pre3®security checkpoints at our larger airports and enjoy expedited screening, allowing you to keep on shoes, belts, and light outerwear, and leave your laptops and zip lock bags in your carry-ons. Even at Cape Air’s smaller airports where there may only be one checkpoint line, you may be offered these expedited screening benefits.
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Illustration: Kathleen Fitzgerald
It is important to keep in mind that even if you are eligible for TSA Pre3® as a member of a CBP trusted traveler program, TSA Pre3® does not guarantee expedited screening. TSA will always incorporate random and unpredictable security measures throughout the airport. If you are not already a member of the TSA Pre3®, the enrollment process includes an online application, payment of an application fee, and an opportunity to book an in-person appointment at a TSA enrollment center, located at many of our larger hub airports. To start your application, please visit tsa.gov/tsa-precheck.
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WE HAVE CONNECTIONS • Book any Cape Air flight
capeair.com 800.CAPE.AIR
• Book any Cape Air flight connecting with United Airlines
united.com
• Book any Cape Air flight connecting with JetBlue
jetblue.com
• Book any Cape Air flight connecting with American Airlines (note — select “advanced options” then “all carriers”)
aa.com
• Book any Cape Air flight connecting with Delta
expedia.com
• Book any Cape Air flight connecting with Seaborne Airlines
expedia.com
• Book any Cape Air flight connecting with Alaska Airlines
expedia.com
G E T TI NG F ROM H E RE TO TH E RE AN D B E YO N D
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By Peter Kokoszka f you are traveling beyond a Cape Air destination, one of our partner airlines can get you onward and beyond to almost anywhere in the world. Visit one of Cape Air’s travel partner websites, shown above, or call upon a professional travel agent to book convenient connections. Booking your entire trip together on a single ticket is the best way to ensure a seamless journey from start to finish. When you book all of your flights together on one of our partner airline websites, you are automatically booked with the appropriate connecting time between your flights, eliminating the need for a mad dash across the airport. With a single itinerary and ticket, you can generally receive connecting boarding passes and check your bags through to your final destination. Also, in the event of a flight delay, Cape Air has access to your entire itinerary to assist you with rebooking your connecting flight as well as your Cape Air flight. If you choose to book separate tickets for different portions of your trip, be sure to allow enough time between your flights to claim and recheck your baggage and to meet each airline’s check-in time requirements. Most airlines no longer provide through check-in of baggage and boarding passes when you are booked on separate tickets, and you may also be charged separate baggage fees. Another downside to booking your flight on separate tickets is, in the event of a flight delay, Cape Air may not have the ability to access your other airline ticket, and it may be necessary to pay rebooking fees to make a flight change. Save yourself time, effort, and money by booking your complete itinerary together on one ticket. You’ll be glad that you did. Questions? There is never a charge to talk to a Cape Air agent at 1.800.Cape.Air. SUMMER
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CAPE AIR EVERYWHERE
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Everyone loves a bargain, especially when it comes to airfares. Do not miss the latest and greatest when it come to Cape The best way to hear about special airfares andAir/Nantucket promotions isAirlines to join fare Capesales. Air’sLog on to capeair.com and click on ...check out details at capeair.com SUMMER
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INDEX
Where to stay, eat and play?
Look no further that our list of advertisers who make the Bird’s Eye View possible. Please take advantage of what they have to offer, for without them this magazine would NOT be possible. On behalf of the Bird’s Eye View team our sincere thanks to all of our loyal and true advertisers. We so appreciate your business. Chuck, Rosemary, Kim, Nancy, Jim, Bobbi, and Michelle Owls Head Transportation Museum................................. 116
Jan Buhrman Kitchen Porch.......... 65
Pentagöet Inn & Restaurant........ 113
Kelleher Real Estate...................... 51
Point Lookout Restaurant........... 116
Kelley House................................. 63
Rheal Day Spa............................ 116
Kendall & Kendall ........................ 55
CAPE COD
Rockport Market Place............... 119
Lighthouse Taxi............................ 61
AMIE Bakery..................................... 69
Rooster Brother.......................... 111
Lookout Tavern............................ 57
The Cat Boat..................................... 69
Sail Acadia.................................. 107
Cape Cod Maritime Museum.......... 69
Saltmeadow Properties............... 111
Martha’s Vineyard Buyer Agents............................ 49
Centerville Pie Co............................. 69
Seafood Ketch Restaurant............. 96
Chatham Sign Shop.......................... 67
Shaw Jewelry.............................. 103
Martha’s Vineyard Concert Series.......................... 45
Sandwich Glass Museum................. 67
Star Gallery................................. 102
Martha’s Vineyard Museum.......... 61
Yellow Umbrella Books..................... 67
Tea House 278............................. 96
MVY Broker.................................. 53
Tidewater Motel......................... 117
Polly Hill Aboretum....................... 38
MAINE
The Trailing Yew......................... 121
The Trustees................................. 38
Acadia National Park Tours......... 101
Trenton Lobster Pound................. 96 Wooden Boat............................. 111
Ocean View Lounge and Restuarant................................ 57 Sandpiper Realty, Inc.................... 59 Tony’s Market............................... 51
BOSTON Boston Harbor Hotel........................ 66 Macdonald & Wood Sotheby’s, Duxbury..................... 71
Acadia Realty Group................... 101 Breakwater Vineyards................. 119 Camden Harbor Cruises.............. 116
MARTHA’S VINEYARD
The Country Inn......................... 119
Airport Fitness.............................. 43
The East Wind Inn...................... 121
Breakwater Real Estate................. 63
Fiore Olive Oils & Vinegars......... 117
Claudia Jewelry............................. 65
Fisherman’s Friend
Clarion Inn Martha’s Vineyard...... 61
Restaurant.............................. 113
The Collection.............................. 47
House Wine.................................. 96
Conroy & Co. Real Estate............. 43
The Island Inn, Monhegan.......... 121
Eisenhauer Gallery.......................... 3
Kneisel Hall Chamber Music....... 111
Featherstone Center for the Arts............................... 52
Kimball Shop & Boutique............ 105 The Lindenwood Inn................... 107 Lisa Hall Jewelry......................... 105 Manor Inn.................................. 113 Monhegan Boat Line.................. 121 Olad and Owl Charters............... 115
Flanders Up-Island Real Estate...... 65 Fishbones Bar & Grille................... 57 The Grill on Main.......................... 51 Harbor View Hotel........................ 63 Hob Knob..................................... 49 Homes on Martha’s Vineyard....... 38
Karen Overtoom Real Estate......... 61
Vineyard Village Realty................. 47 Wallace & Co. Sotheby’s............... 53
NANTUCKET Barrett’s Tours of Nantucket.......... 25 Brass Lantern Inn.......................... 33 Capt. Tom’s Charters..................... 18 Compass Rose Real Estate............ 28 The Copley Group........................ 34 Dreamland.................................... 19 Faregrounds & Pudley’s Pub......... 28 Greydon House.............................. 2 Harborview Nantucket.................. 34 Housefitters & Tile Gallery Nantucket............................. 176
Martha’s Vineyard Concert Series.... 45
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Hotel Saranac............................. 139
J. Pepper Frazier Real Estate.......... 15
Merrill L. Thomas, Inc................. 141
Jack Wills...................................... 29
Paul Smith’s College................... 140
THE BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS
Johnstons of Elgin......................... 33
Point of View Art
BVI Tourism Board...................... 165
Maury People Sotheby’s Realty....... 4
Diane E. Leifheit..................... 135
BVI Villa Rental........................... 162
Michael Kane Lightship Baskets......................................... 19
Simply Gourmet.......................... 132
Fort Burt Hotel & Marina............ 166
Visit Adirondacks........................ 132
Sol Y Sombra Villa...................... 167
Nantucket Atheneum....................... 29
Speedy’s Ferry............................ 166
Nantucket Bake Shop....................... 23
PROVINCETOWN
Nantucket Beach Chair..................... 23
Arnold’s Bikes................................... 84
Nantucket Bike Shop........................ 33
Art’s Dune Tours............................... 75
Nantucket Health Club..................... 37
Boatslip Beach Club.......................... 76
Nantucket Inns................................. 35
THE U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS ST. CROIX
Bubala’s by the Bay........................... 76
Nantucket License Plates.................. 28
Arawak Bay................................ 161
Cape Cod Wood Carving................. 83
Nantucket Lightship Basket Museum........................... 25
The Buccaneer............................ 159
Center for Coastal Studies................ 89
Cane Bay Dive Shop................... 159
Christina’s Jewelry............................ 89
Nantucket Shipwreck & Lifesaving Museum.................. 18
Chenay Bay Beach Resort........... 161
Christopher’s by the Bay................... 88
Crucian Gold.............................. 161
Crown & Anchor.............................. 77
Palms at Pelican Cove.................... 161
Nantucket Pearl Company............... 18 Nantucket Stock............................... 34 Nantucket Summer Series................ 13 Nantucket Windmill Auto Rental........................................... 35 Nobby Clothes Shop..................... 37 Serenella....................................... 35 Serendipity by the Sea.................. 23 Shearwater Excursions.................. 19
Surfsong Boutique Resort........... 166
The Inn at Cook Street..................... 79 Local 186 burgers & beer................. 76
ST. JOHN
Mistralino Ristorante........................ 89
340 Real Estate Co..................... 157
Ptown Massage................................ 77
Islandia Real Estate..................... 157
Provincetown Tourism Board............ 77
The Trip Book................................. 157
Ptownie.com.................................. 175
Vacation Vistas Villa Rentals........ 157
The Red Inn.................................. 88
Wish Upon A Star Charters......... 154
Relish............................................ 76 The Schoolhouse Gallery............... 79
ST. THOMAS
Seashore Point Provincetown........ 88
Calypso Realty............................ 153
Schooner Hindu............................ 75
Dohn’s Water Taxi...................... 152
Snip Salon..................................... 85
Inter Island Boat Sevices............. 153
Martha Diebold Real Estate........ 124
Truro Center Castle Hill................. 79
Miller Manor Guest House.......... 153
NEW YORK
Yolk Restaurant............................ 79
Susan Lister Locke Gallery............. 37 Thai House................................... 23
NEW HAMPSHIRE
Absolutely Adirondacks.............. 143 Adirondack White Pine Cabins.... 132 Adirondack Lakes and Trails Outfitters............................... 135 Adirondack Paintings Sandra Hildreth...................... 135 Adirondack Regional Art Trail..... 135 Beglin’s Lake Placid Jewelry........ 143 Guide Boat Realty....................... 138
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2016
Victor’s Restaurant........................ 83
VERMONT
VIEQUES Black Beard Sports...................... 149 Vieques Flowers & Gifts.............. 149
Marble West Inn............................. 129 McWayne Jewelers......................... 130 Three Stallion Inn........................ 131 Vermont Horse Country Real Estate............................. 130 Williamson Group Sotheby’s Realty..................... 129
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CARIBBEAN:
Island Properties Real Estate......... 25
EarthView By Jim Wolf, Director of Sustainability
FROM PARIS TO PLEASANT BAY MOVING LOCALLY ON CLIMATE CHANGE
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For us, For us, nothing but nothing green skies.but
Cape Air mechanics basking in efficient lighting at St. Louis maintenance hangar
he old saying “there is strength in numbers” has taken on greatly At Cape Air we are working hard expanded meaning in an age of instant communications. Collabto mitigate our impact on global orative grassroots efforts seem to be breaking out everywhere, and warming. Our latest “drop in the some are focused on solving global problems. Perhaps there is no bucket” happened in April, when we better example than work to address Climate Change through local actions. completed the conversion of our The whole world watched in December 2015 as 195 nations adopted the Billings, Montana, maintenance Paris Agreement on Climate Change. That collective high-level commitment facility hangar from sodium vapor set out ambitious goals and an agenda to reduce emissions that contribute to lighting to LED. The project will Climate Change. But for anyone at home, it was clear that actions to effect real save approximately 120,000 kilowatt reductions in emissions would ultimately happen at the state and local levels. hours of electricity annually, which On Cape Cod, where Cape Air’s headquarters is sited, people know firstis the carbon equivalent of taking 18 hand the Climate Change impacts of rising sea levels and intensified storms. average passenger vehicles off the Every winter there are eroded shorelines and houses lost. It’s the same for road. We’ve now been involved in many of the islands we fly to, as well as the American heartland, where “changing out” to more efficient strengthening mega-storms threaten whole communities. lighting at 4 of our 6 major mainteAs a result of the Paris agreement, we’ve had the good fortune to watch nance locations! the formation of the Cape Cod Climate Change Collaborative which held its So when it comes to solving the first conference, “From Paris to PleasantA fuel-efficient Bay,” inCessna June.402The Collaborative is a climate crisis, find out what’s being proclaims our commitment to sustainability. banding together of local organizations and individuals dedicated to helping done in your neck of the woods, and 12 EPA 20 educate people and encourage the changes needed RENEWING to meet the goals of the pitch in. Working together we can Paris Agreement. By establishing a central website, and a communications “save the planet”, at home, at our network, the organizations are planning to use a multiplier effect out businesses, and on the road—one REDUCING A fuel-efficient Cessnato 402reach proclaims our commitment to sustainability. to their members on what they can do. It’s all drops in the bucket to meet the drop at a time! global challenge we face, but coupled with initiatives undertakenRENEWING by major 12 EPA PARTNERING 20 cities and corporations, the Collaborative demonstrates that it is drops in the bucket—strength in numbers—that can make all the difference in changing CONSERVING REDUCING ta Committed to Sustainability. the future. l M e ri t A w
green skies.
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intosolar energy to power our corporate headquarters, along with Creative partnerships are part of whatOur makeinvestment our approach sustainability unique. We work with airports, communities, other and our employeesin onroofing, a wide range of localand lighting controls, bring us ever closer to efficiencies insulation goals, from Farm to School agriculturenet-zero programs to electricusage. vehicle initiatives. electricity
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Sure, airlines consume fuel. But we’re committed to reducing the burn—both in the skies and on the ground. Combined new technology and flight procedures significantly reduce the fuel consumed in our super-efficient fleet of Cessna 402s.
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Our investment in solar energy to power our corporate headquarters, along with other efficiencies in roofing, insulation and lighting controls, bring us ever closer to net-zero electricity usage.
We support it at work and at home through recycling, waste reduction, sustainable Sure, airlines consume we’re product sourcing, and various green initiatives designed to excitefuel. and But inspire our committed to reducing the burn—both in the skies and on the ground. Combined new technology and flight procedures equally committed employees.
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significantly reduce the fuel consumed in our super-efficient fleet of Cessna 402s.
SUSTAINING
PARTNERING
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We fly to some beautiful places and want to help keep them that way. To “green” our planet and have a good time doing it. That’s our commitment. Creative partnershipsBecause are partweofrecognize what make our approach to sustainability unique. that our own ability to thrive hinges on the health of our natural environment.
We work with airports, communities, and our employees on a wide range of local goals, from Farm to School agriculture programs to electric vehicle initiatives.
We’re investing in tomorrow,
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