Belgrade Insight, No. 27 by Balkan Investigative Reporting Network (BIRN)

NEWS NEWS

Friday • June 13 • 2008

9 ISSN 1820-8339

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Issue 1 / Friday, 13, 2008 Weekly Issue No. 27,No. Friday, Mar. 13June - Thursday, Mar. 19, 2009

Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists

While younger Socialists support joining a new, pro-EU government, old Milosevic loyalists threaten revolt over the prospect.

EDITOR’S WORD POLITICS

Political Predictability

Kosovo Prime Minister, Hashim Thaci, invites Serbian President, BorisBy Tadic, to R. Pristina for talks. Mark Pullen

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party over which way to turn. “The situation in the party seems extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining laggards that we need to move out of Milosevic’s shadow,” one Socialist Party official complained. “Dacic will eventually side with Many of us who have experiBELGRADE Tadic in a bid to guide his party into enced numerous Serbian elections the European mainstream, but much Our rateout-of-town ourselves correspondent as pundits when takesit of the membership and many offi- a comes to predicting election restroll around Vracar, one of Belgrade’s mostpost-election interesting districts. cials may oppose that move.” sults and moves. Nikolic agreed: “The question is We feel in-the-knowPage because 4 will the party split or will the ‘oldour experience of elections in Sertimers’ back down,” he noted. bia hasOUT shown that (a.) no single &usABOUT Fearing they might not cross the party or coalition will ever gain the 5-per-cent threshold to enter parlia- The majority requiredcapital, to formSkopje, a governMacedonian is ment, the Socialists teamed up with anment, idealand destination fornegotiations a weekend (b.) political the Association of Pensioners and the away. will never be quickly concluded. United Serbia Party, led by businessEven when the Democrats man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. achieved their surprising result at Pensioners leader,Photo Jovan Krkobalast month’s general election, it by FoNet Activists gathered to protest over the withdrawal of the anti-discrimination legislation from parliament. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing quickly became clear that the refor a deal with the Democrats. sult was actually more-or-less the The reported price is the post of same as every other election result Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker deputy PM, with a brief in charge of in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. security for the Socialist leader. faces extinction unless it changes. This is likely to continue as long to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan By Rade Maroevic in Belgrade In addition, the Socialists are barHowever, a strong current also as Serbia’s politicians form new Milosevic, and reformists who want Rights groups protest after alliance of church andin Muslim forces theforwithdrawal gaining other ministries, includflows the oppositeleaders direction, led political parties every time they the partyan to become a modern Euroense negotiations on a new govPage party 9 of a law banning discrimination on grounds of sexual orientation. ing capital investments, Kosovo and by party veterans enraged by the disagree with their current pean social democrat organisation. ernment have divided the ranks education, Belgrade media reported. prospect of a deal with Tadic. leader (there are currently 342 regAfter eight years of stagnation, of the Socialist Party, which holds REVIEW and calls for a renewed emphasis on for visa-free travel within the zone. front door of the cultural centre where Tadic has denied talk of horseMihajlo Markovic, a founder of istered political parties in Serbia). the Socialists returned to centre stage the balance of power between the By Jovana Gligorijevic separation of Church and state. But Sasa Gajin, coordinator of the conference was taking place. Our music correspondent finds the trading with the Socialists, maintainthe party, recently warned of a crisis Drawn-out negotiations are also after winning 20 of the 250 seats in blocs and has yet to announce inmain Belgrade “We’re fighting for freedom of the “Coalition Against Discrimina“Homophobia and the withdrawsuper-group ing the that anti-discrimination ministries would go law only to latest if Dacic optsofforthethe pro-European the release norm. from One 80’s Belgrade-based parliament in themeans May 11 elections. which side they will support. choice, which plurality of tion”, and one authors of the al of Riblja Corba to be sadly lacking. styles, models, parliamentary procedure law,Socialists’ demanded“natto fromthose committed to working has for the bloc, abandoning the Ambassador recently told me he the cultural pro-European and equalnation- anti-discrimination “It looks as if the Socialists will lifeWith erbia’s government has an- ity of sexual choices, so we can know whose decision it was to with- caused this,” Boris Milicevic, presi11 government’s “strategic goal”. ural” ideological partners. was also alarmed by Page the distinct alist blocs almost evenly matched, move towards a government led by gered rights activists after be what we want to be, instead of draw the draft law. dent of the alliance, said. At the same time, Dacic seems reMarkovic, a prominent supporter lack of urgency among Serbian the Socialists havearmy the final say the Democrats,” analyst Mi- what pulling an political anti-discrimination The same day, the rights organisaa church,now nation, or parNada Kolundzija, head of the GOING OUT is at a luctant to call off negotiations with of Milosevic during the 1990s, is politicians. “The country the fate of the country. lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen- tyonwants law from parliamentary procedure, us to be,“ Stasa Zajovic, caucus of the governing Democratic tion Human Rights Watch sent a letfollowing sharp complaints fromsuch re- from theBozidar nationalists. seen DS, as representative the “old- ter to standstill and I entertained don’t understand Nikolic believes the Socialists, led Party, tre of Policy Studies, said. “But Delic, Deputy Prime in parliament, of confirmed the feminist group “Women Zeljko Samardzic the laligious minister in charge the DS-led majority intended said. will come over to that the Belgrade Arena Inter“If and we the don’t reach an agreement dies timers” in the party who want to stay Minister theirat logic. If they are so on eager to Ivica Dacic, a moveleaders. might provoke deeper divi- inbyBlack“, The biggest church in the counintegration, urging Beladopt when it returned to of European Serbia’s Minister Labour and Women’s Day. with the DSS and Radicals, the par- national to the the law former regime’s policies, progress towards the EU and enTadic, if only out of of a pragmatic de- totrue sions and even split the party.” try, the Serbian Orthodox Church, as Social Policy, Rasim Ljajic said that parliament – but only if there were grade to pass the anti-discrimination ty leadership will decide on future even though these almost ruined the courage investors, how come they sire to ensure their political survival. held he wellSimultaneous as the Catholicnegotiations and Evangelical law as soon as possible. was also disappointed by the de- no substantial changes. steps”, Dacic announced, following Socialists for good. go home at 5pm sharp and don’t “The group of younger Socialists with the pro-European andCommunational- cision churches and the Islamic Human Rights Watch reminded to pull the draft bill, saying it The government appears to have nity, signed a joint letter raising to ob-a would the first of country’s new parSocialist officials Serbia work weekends?” gathered around Dacic seemsconseto be beenSome ist blocs have drawn attention that session it is party to the Eurohave serious political caughtyounger on the hop by the protest jections that would quences. Convention on Human Rights religious groups demandon Wednesday. havefrom voiced frustration over the con- peanliament Surely the situation is urgent in the majority”, Nikolic said, adding letter deep riftabout insideprovisions the Socialists. outlaw discrimination against people was among the first countries in Earlier this week,believe the Socialist changes to 13 points the draft tinuing impasse withinin their own and Source: enough to warrant a little overtime. that these reformists the party ing This divides “old-timers” loyal Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) on the grounds of sexual orientation. Interior Minister, Ivica Dacic, had law. Parliament will consider the Europe to ratify Protocol 12 of this The Serbian Orthodox Church’s said the draft law against discrimi- proposed amendments on Friday13th. convention, which prohibits disgoverning body, the Holy Synod, the nation – whose adoption is insisted Meanwhile, gay and lesbian crimination on grounds of religious Catholic Archbishop of the Belgrade, onBusiness THIS ISSUE OF by the European Union – would groups complain that parliament’s Insight Neighbourhood Matters or sexual orientation. Muslim Belgrade leaders and Insight other religious be adopted by the end of April. It noted that Serbia is also party decision has sent the wrong signal societies sent the letter, on March Dacic told Belgrade’s B92 TV that to the country, encouraging homo- to the International Covenant on Page 12 IS SUPPORTED BY: 5th, to the speaker of parliament. Civil and Political Rights, Articles the law would still be passed, along phobic violence. The last-minute decision to pull with all other laws that parliament On Tuesday, several unidentified 2 and 26 of which affirm people’s conomists areforwarning that hile the football watch- right to equal treatment and equal the bill from parliamentary procedure needed to approve Serbia to be proac- men interrupted a press world conference sparked anger, however, prompting ceptedlonged over Serbia’s es events unfold theGayEuro- protection before the law, without held byatthe by theuncertainty Schengen group of EU held in Kragujevac complaints of clerical interference countries, Alliance, breaking on the thusscare making Serbs eligible future could off investors, lead Straight pean Championships inglass Austria and discrimination.

Equal Rights Law Derailed T

Costs Mounting

Football Rebellion

to higher inflation and jeopardise

Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing a soccer rebellion, led by fans, SPORT play“This year has been lost, from the ers and former stars who are enraged standpoint of economic policy,” says With by what they see aslast corrupt four clubs in the eightleaders of the Stojan Stamenkovic of the Econom- Champions’ of the country’s football association League, English football is,leaders. once again, in the ascendancy. ics Institute in Belgrade. page 5 page 10

DINING prosperity OUT for years to come. Cantina De Frida serves excellent tapas in a trendy location on the banks of the Sava.

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Source: www.weather2umbrella.com

politics

Friday, Mar. 13 - Thursday, Mar. 19, 2009

Town Gets Bill for 400,000 Kebabs

Serbian Politican on Big Brother TV Show

Novi Pazar

By Zoran Maksimovic

he municipal court in Novi Pazar ordered the town’s administration to pay 6 million dinars from the city budget to the Sadrvan restaurant, more famous as Jonuz’s Kebab Shop, for kebabs eaten between 2004 and 2008, during the mandate of the former authorities. The current authorities say this is only one of the many debts left behind by the former municipal authorities, who they say, spent budget resources in an “un-gentlemanly manner”. “The owners of Sadrvan have not been paid for over 400,000 kebabs”, said a representative from the city public attorney’s office. The bill for kebabs and meals eaten at the Sadrvan restaurant arrived at the city management’s office and was based on an invoice submitted to the municipal court. The city’s public attorney Hedija Skrijelj said another three well known Novi Pazar restaurants also plan to submit requests for payments of debts for drinks and meals eaten by the representatives of the former authorities. The city’s current management wonder how the previous authorities accrued such a large bill. “Until

the court has its final say, it remains a mystery that is difficult to solve. How is it possible to run up such a big bill”, a representative said. Skrijelj said she will file a complaint at the court. “In court we will establish who was signing those bills and who was eating those meals,” she said. Owners of the Sadrvan restaurant declined to answer questions from the press related to this case. But far from being shamed by the incident, the current opposition, who were the former authorities in the town, have leapt on the case as a way to attack the current administration. “If counting kebabs after eight months in power is this coalition’s greatest achievement, then there is no comment on this stupidity,” said Enis Imamovic, the spokesperson for the Bosniak Ticket for European Sandzak led by Sulejman Ugljanin, adding that the current authorities should deal with more pressing issues than kebabs. Since July, the new authorities in Novi Pazar have been formed from a coalition led by the Sandzak Democratic Party of Rasim Ljajic together with United Serbian Ticket. Previously, Sulejman Ugljanin’s Ticket For Sandzak was in power and skirmishes between these two political groups have been going on for years.

enad Canak, leader of the League of the Social Democrats of Vojvodina and a deputy in the Serbian Parliament, has taken the public by surprise by entering Serbia’s reality show ‘’Big Brother V.I.P. 2009’’ TV show – a global TV phenomenon licenced from Dutch company Endemol. Canak is the first politician in Serbia to ever take part in a reality show and will be appearing alongside some of Serbia’s “A list” celebrities including a former Miss Yugoslavia, Tijana Stajsic, Folk Singer Miras Koric and a raft of TV presenters, singers and celebs. The oldest competitor in the ‘’Big Brother’’ house, Canak has so far earned a reputation of being the early bird, being the first to wake up and spending most of his mornings alone in the dining room. And while he as a reputation of being a funny and entertaining man, in the two days since the show started, viewers have not yet seen these characteristics. Most parliamentarians from the ruling majority think Canak’s deci-

Source: www.seebiz.eu

Big Brother is watching Nenad Canak.

sion will not affect parliamentary activities. The opposition, however, says Canak is doing this purely to promote his own career and has labelled it a publicity stunt. Canak has informed the Secretary of Serbia’s Parliament about his absence and has requested unpaid leave - which he has the right to take. His party has said that the money he gets from the show will

be donated to the Children’s Hospital in Novi Sad. Canak, one of the biggest supporters of the Vojvodina statute that has troubled Serbian politics for the past few months, will not be able to vote on it, due to his absence. The draft for the Vojvodina statute and the accompanying law on the province’s jurisdiction is due to enter the parliamentary process this week.

Thaci Invites Tadic to Pristina

osovo Prime Minister Hashim Thaci has invited Serbia’s President Boris Tadic to meet in Pristina to discuss bilateral cooperation between the two states. “You know that Belgrade wants me in handcuffs,” he told media in the Serb-populated town of Cagllavica on Sunday, saying instead that he holds out ‘’an invitation for President Tadic …, to come to my office for a handshake”. He said that a meeting “is the best and most fair decision” Tadic can make both to encourage peace and stability in the region

and for the Serbian population of Kosovo. Serbia has vowed to never recognise Kosovo, which declared independence in February 2008, and insists that the former province is still a part of its territory. Direct talks between Serbian and Kosovo leaders have therefore never taken place. The United Nations mission in Kosovo, UNMIK, has worked as mediator between the two countries since the end of the 1998-99 conflict and last month, invited both parties to meet and discuss issues of cultural heritage. The invitation was ignored by both Belgrade and Pristina

Hashim Thaci

Weekly Press Roundup BLIC - The Serbian Government may soon advise a 32 hour working week to protect serbian workers from redundancy and lay-offs in the face of the global economic crisis. POLITIKA - The Slovenian minister of employement Ivan Svetlik promised retirement pay for those Serbians who worked in Slovenia, starting from next year. The Serbian and Slovenian governments are planning to reach an agreement on social insurance that would make it possible for Serbian citizens who worked in Slovenia up to 1991 to get pensions. GLAS JAVNOSTI - Serbian war veterans protested in front of the Government building, demanding that the Government pay their wag-

es for period they spent in Kosovo and Metohija during the NATO action in 1999.

tion demonstrations, on March 9th 1991. “It’s time to run into Europe”, said Draskovic.

VECERNJE NOVOSTI - Although production officially ceased in October 2008, Zastava has plans to produce around 100 or so new Yugo vehicles in the coming days.

DANAS - Serbian police in Novi Pazar, Raska and Kraljevo arrested 35 people, 18 of them policemen, on suspicion of the illegal transport of oil, alcohol and soft drinks over the border with Kosovo.

PRESS - Musical producer and song-writter Marko Kon will represent Serbia at the Eurovision Song Contest in Moscow. His song “Cipela” was the favourite of the audience and the jury at the Beovision competition, held at the Sava Centar on March 8th. BLIC - Vuk Draskovic, leader of the SPO and his supporters gathered on the 18th anniversary of great oposi-

BORBA - According to the research, women are featured just 15 per cent of the time on the TV news. Men also have much more space devoted to them in newspaper articles and TV shows. BLIC - The Governer of the National Bank of Serbia, Radovan Jelasic warns that Sebia could lose loans from the International Monetary

Fund, unless Serbia shrinks it’s public expenditure. POLITIKA - Nenad Canak, leader of Social Democratic League of Vojvodina and a deputy in the Serbian parliament decided to take part in reality show Big Brother. Most of parliamentarians from the ruling majority think this will not affect his parliamentary activities. The opposition, on the other hand, think that Canak is doing this for his own political promotion. VECERNJE NOVOSTI - The Current parlous state of many Serbian firms endangers the Serbian economy. Bank accounts of 57,059 firms are suspended, which means that every third firm in Serbia has financial problems. Those firms owe the state more than 11 billion dinars.

POLITIKA - “The Churches did not give us an ultimatum” says Serbian prime minister Mirko Cvetkovic, explaining why government withdrew an anti-discrimination law from parliament. He said that the governement is going to reconsider this law and urgently re-submit itto parliament. Cvetkovic expects the law to be adopted by parliament by the end of March. GLAS JAVNOSTI - Famous US political activist and anti-globalist Noam Chomsky sent a letter to Serbian president Boris Tadic, prime minister Mirko Cvetkovic and interior minister Ivica Dacic, demanding that they urgently solve the problem with the privatisation of Sinvoz, a factory in Serbia that works on repair and renovation of locomotives and rolling stock.

politics

Friday, Mar. 13 - Thursday, Mar. 19, 2009

Opposition Call for Early Elections Dismissed

Profile of the Week Tomislav Nikolic

Opposition Progressives are likely to be disappointed as Tadic insists political stability is crucial, at a time of economic crisis. ute” for the northern province as a concession to separatism, while the Socialists blocked its adoption in parliament until agreement over Vojvodina’s powers and its degree of its autonomy had been reached.

By Nenad Vulovic in Belgrade

erbia’s strongest opposition party, the Serbian Progressive Party, an offshoot of the Serbian Radical Party, announced it would start election campaigning in April. The deputy president of the Progressive Party, Aleksandar Vucic, said he expected the country to hold elections as soon as November. “Elections would be the best and most economic solution to a situation in which we have poor and incompetent government,” he told the daily Politika on March 3rd. “I’ve noticed that resistance to [the idea of] fresh elections, seems to be weakening, even from [President Boris] Tadic”, Vucic added. However, few experts seriously believe the Progressives can force the government to concede early elections, in spite of the current economic downturn. Tadic’s Democratic Party has, if anything, succeeded in reducing the turbulence within the ruling coalition which was caused by the controversial sale of the NIS oil conglomerate to Russia, the economic crisis and other issues. The government, formed on July 7th, last year, comprises Tadic’s Democrats, Mladjan Dinkic’s centrist and pro-European G17 Plus, and Ivica Dacic’s Socialists. The opposition is convinced that the economic crisis will lead to the breakdown of the government and so create an opportunity for early elections.

“It is more realistic to expect elections next year.”

“Elections would only be additional burden to our economy... Serbia does not need that today” But Marko Blagojevic, of the Centre for Free Elections and Democracy, CeSID, told Balkan Insight that the political arithmetic did not add up. A successful no-confidence motion in parliament would require the support of 126 deputies. But the Radicals, Progressives, and two other right wing parties, Vojislav Kostunica’s Democratic Party of Serbia and Velimir Ilic’s New Serbia, together hold just 108 seats. “Only the Progressive Party can benefit from the new elections but it does not have enough leverage in its hands to initiate such elections,” Blagojevic noted. Opinion polls show that eight months after the government was formed, the Democratic Party remains the strongest party in the country, while its leader, Tadic, is Serbia’s most popular politician. Meanwhile, since the split of Vojislav Seselj’s Radicals, and the

Source: www.nato.int

The government will concentrate on its economic priorities. Elections are not an option under consideration says Tadic.

emergence of the Progressives, the right-leaning opposition parties, including the Democratic Party of Serbia and New Serbia, have failed to agree a common platform. The bitter rift between the Radicals and the Progressives also makes such a coalition unlikely in future. It is also clear from Vucic’s interview that the Progressives are thinking of entering elections in their own right, while remaining open to cooperation with other opposition parties – except for the Radicals. Political analyst Dejan Vuk Stankovic told Balkan Insight that “it is natural for a newly formed party such as the Serbian Progressive Party, which has a solid elec-

toral base, to constantly call for elections.” But on March 1st, Tadic told the Main Committee of the Democratic Party that 2009 would not be an election year, but a year devoted to the preservation of the nation’s economic assets. The Democratic Party has experienced turbulence lately at the hands of its coalition partners, primarily G17 Plus and the League of Vojvodina Social Democrats, over the sale of NIS to Russia’s Gasprom. But it has a good chance of the healing rifts with the Socialists, at least, with whom it also fell out, over affairs in the autonomous province of Vojvodina. Earlier this year, the opposition condemned the proposed new “Stat-

This will now apparently be solved by a law, defining Vojvodina’s autonomy, something the Socialists had been insisting on. Djordje Milicevic, spokesman for the Socialists, told Balkan Insight that the party would insist on the Vojvodina Statute being harmonised with the Serbian constitution. “This basically means: autonomy – yes, but state-within-a-state – no,” Milicevic said. Although several Vojvodina parties, including the League of Vojvodina Social Democrats and the Alliance of Vojvodina Hungarians, have warned that they may reconsider support for the government if any amendments cut back on Vojvodina’s autonomy, the amended Statute is now likely to be adopted by the Serbian parliament. The leader of the Alliance of the Vojvodina Hungarians, Istvan Pastor, told Balkan Insight that while the issue of the Vojvodina Statute had caused ructions within the ruling majority, he did not expect the issue to trigger elections. The economic crisis, meanwhile, has, ironically, become a card in the hands of the government, which insists that now is the time for political stability. They maintain that Serbia needs stability in order to put into practice the measures adopted by the government to reduce the consequences of the global economic crisis and prevent the country from entering recession. “Elections would only be additional burden to our economy because we would not be implementing measures to defend people’s standards of living. Serbia does not need that today, Serbia needs unity,” President Tadic said on March 1st. Milan Nikolic, director of the Centre for Policy Studies, said the leaders of the coalition mostly agreed that elections would not be the solution right now. “The ruling coalition has taken a stance not to have elections in order to make the state as stable as possible in the crisis period,” Nikolic said. “It is more realistic to expect elections next year.” Marko Blagojevic, of CeSID, agrees that an early dissolution of parliament and new elections is not realistic, while cautioning that nothing in Serbian politics is totally predictable. “That does not mean that the situation won’t be changing, because politics here is an oddity,” he said. Source: www.BalkanInsight.com

Undertaker in a New Suit By Slobodan Georgijev If Serbia holds new elections this year, Nikolic will again try to seize the role that has eluded him over the last eight years.

hat politics is a special kind of passion is best seen by the example of Tomislav Nikolic, 57, president of the Serbian Progressive Party. This construction technician from Kragujavac has run the presidential race four times in eight years. And while he has never won, he still survives on the political scene, assuring the public that his time is yet to come. He entered politics as the righthand man of the ultranationalist Vojislav Seselj with whom he founded the Serbian Radical Party. After last year’s presidential and parliamentary elections, when the party was defeated by the Boris Tadic’s Coalition for European Serbia, he acted like Taras Bulba in the eponymous novel by Gogol. “I created you and I will kill you”, Nikolic seems to have thought, when he decided to form a new party and take with him the people and voters from his original party. In the 1990s, this cold-blooded and intelligent politician was Seselj’s howitzer in the Serbian parliament but he only fully took over the reins after Seselj departed for The Hague to answer war crimes charges in 2003. He will be remembered for first pledging new borders for a Greater Serbia, which he then denounced after he founded his new party last autumn. On several occasions in the past, he has said he does not feel sorry for some of the people killed under Slobodan Milosevic and when his own Radicals were in the ascendant. Today, however, his Progressives present themselves mainly as modern right-wing fighters for social justice. Nikolic, a former boss of a funeral parlour in Kragujevac (hence the “Undertaker” nickname), today says he now realises the problems that Zoran Djindjic, the prime minister shot dead in 2003, had to face. That is because he is now also being threatened by members of his former party. There is a widespread opinion that President Tadic, now Serbia is facing the consequences of the economic crisis, should form a coalition with Nikolic, because that would create a real national consensus, enjoying the support of a large majority of Serbian citizens. On the other hand, others say the problem is not in these two political platforms joining in coalition, but what such a coalition would do in power. In fact, neither Nikolic nor Tadic, who have both dismissed the idea of a coalition on several occasions, seem to have much of an idea about what will happen to Serbia over the next few years.

belgrade chronicle

Friday, Mar. 13 - Thursday, Mar. 19, 2009

The view from the Beogradjanka building offers up one of Belgrade’s most stunning vistas.

A Stroll Around Vracar Krenar Gashi came to town for a short visit and spent a day wandering around Vracar with friends. By Krenar Gashi

t’s small and run down in places, but I like it. It’s mostly large residential buildings, but once you get under the skin of the place, you’ll find it has a soul. Vracar, the smallest municipality in Belgrade, is still considered by many as one of Belgrade’s best places to own an apartment.

Although small, the Vracar district is the home to the huge Temple of Saint Sava. Some argue that the temple itself is a must see. But I think the real must see is the view from the Beogradjanka, a 23 story business centre, which for me, symbolises Belgrade, located in the western part of Vracar. When it was first constructed, this was the first ‘skyscraper’ in the Balkans and locals queued to get into what was also the first real ‘supermarket’ on the ground floor. The building remains the same wherever you are, but its meaning changes depending on your perspective. If you happen to be in one of tiny streets of the residential area that looks towards

the west, it does at least, serve as an orientation tool. A huge red banner advertising the Maxi chain of supermarkets, hangs from the building and locals joke that the building itself might change its name into “Delta” very soon. The neighbourhood is located on a plateau of the same name and is surrouded by the neighbourhoods of Slavija to the north, Cubura and Gradic Pejton to the east, Neimar to the south and the Kadadjordje park to the west. The name Vracar itself is quite funny. It derives from the Serbian word vrac, a shaman, or an alternative medicine doctor and this is far from being the only unusual name you will encounter. If you have walked up to Vracar, especially from Belgrade’s train or bus station, you will definitely need some time to rest, so you must go to a restaurant called Trac, which means nothing else but gossip. And it’s not difficult to guess what people do there. Besides enjoying the delicious food, they enjoy gossiping as well. If you are a visitor, as I was, you’re not eligible to gossip. At least not until the locals have told you all about Vracar. Just sit back and take it all in. The story itself, makes sense if one of the friendly locals takes you for a cup of coffee at a place called Prica, which means – the story. If there’s any place in Belgrade that can feel like home to a visitor, it’s going to be Prica. You enter an apartment that was turned into a

cafe, and to this day the only thing that reminds you it’s a cafe are the menus on the tables. Everything else remains, as it was when it was an apartment - furniture, colours, décor – everything. The story, which modern locals refer to as the myth, is an excellent post-Soviet experience. After World War II when most of the buildings were constructed, the neighbourhood became home to Belgrade’s liberal intellectuals, but now, they say, it’s kind of fading and changing, “just like everything else in Belgrade”. Even Serbia’s notorious Slobodan Milosevic lived in Vracar. Although the NATO airplanes that bombed a residential building in the area in 1999, were not aiming for him, and hit the building by mistake. Once you have had your fill of coffee and stories in cafe Prica, if you still have more free time, you might want to take a stroll to a restaurant called Zaplet, which translates as the plot. Although just how many plots have been hatched here, I don’t know! The streets too have unusual names. In a street called Petrogradska, there’s a nice cafe called Petrograd, the Slavic name for St. Petersburg. Perhaps if the Russians hadn’t had changed the name back from Leningrad after the fall of communism, you might just have been able to take your decadent espresso in Cafe Lenin. Not far from there, lies the open market of Vracar, Kalenic Pijaca. Tidy, at least according to Balkan

Kalenic Market

standards, and well supplied, this market is believed by many to be the best in Belgrade. It more or less serves just the post-posh elite of Vracar. Others can come, but will have difficulties parking in the narrow streets. The tiny streets, most of them just wide enough for one way traffic, have cars packed like sardines, bumper to bumper along the sides and ranks of motorbikes and scooters with Vracar registration plates – for some reason, municipal plates are for motorbikes only. All in all, despite the confusion, and the history lessons that I got in Vracar, I still think it’s one of the best places to live.

belgrade chronicle

Friday, Mar. 13 - Thursday, Mar. 19, 2009

Belgrade Through the Eyes of…

Slavija Square

St. Sava Square

he site of a gate to the city a hundred years ago, built on a land owned by Scot, Francis McKensie. The biggest square in town and a nightmare for drivers and pedestrians alike. If you ever want to check your racing driving skills head up this way. The square’s name comes from the hotel Slavija, built in late 19th century by Czech architect Frantisek Nekvasil. The old hotel was replaced with a modern skyscraper some thirty years ago. The monument of Dimitrije Tucovic, the founder of the socialist movement in Serbia is in the centre of the square and gives it its formal, but rarely used, name of Dimitrije Tucovic Square. The Administration of the city of Belgrade have several times announced that they plan to re-model the square but so far, there has been no progress.

large square at the top of Vlacar hill in front of the Saint Sava Temple. Construction of the temple started in 1935 on the site where the Ottomans burned the Serbian saint’s corpse in the 16th century. This holy site for the Serbian Orthodox Church is one of the Belgrade’s most visible and instantly recognisable landmarks. Nearby is the National Library and on the opposite side of the square, plans are afoot to build a new headquarters for the church. In the centre of the square there is a monument to Karadjordje Petrovic, the leader of first Serbian rebellion against the Ottoman empire in the 19th century. A statue of Saint Sava, the founder of the independent Serbian Orthodox Church, reminiscent of the statue of Christ in Rio (albeit on a smaller scale!) is on the north side of the square.

Belgrade Diary

By Fabien Cerisier

ne day early this month, with Belgrade still draped in snow, I recalled the early March day in 2004, when I first flew in from Paris and took that first ride into the city. My view of Belgrade has changed since I first arrived. First of all, over five years I lost the distorted preconceptions that I, like many foreigners, held before coming to Serbia. But the city itself has changed, as it has recovered, at least partially, from the wars of the 1990s. For example, as soon as you deplane at the airport, if you turn left, you enter the bright, brand new terminal C. But if you turn right and go into the old Terminal A, which has yet to be renovated, you will see exactly what I saw five years ago. This is typical of Belgrade: Rapid modern development stands out against a backdrop of traditions and monuments to the past. Driving through New Belgrade, which is becoming the main business district of a dynamic capital city, it is clear how Belgrade has developed economically. Unlike when I first arrived, cranes stand reflected in the glass of so many brand new buildings.

Nikola Tesla Museum

ituated in Krunska (Royal Street), the most beautiful street in Vracar, this museum is one of the most interesting spots for tourists. Don’t miss the opportunity to visit the home of Serbia’s most well known scientist. The museum opened in 1953 and has a collection of 150,000 documents and some of his scientific equipment. The well informed staff will guide you round the fascinating exhibits left behind by the father of electricity.

City of Contrasts

But cross the Gazela bridge to enter the city centre, and you still see the buildings along Knez Milosa that were destroyed in the NATO bombing, as well as the old town and the fortress. All remain as mementos of the past. The central city is still comfortably small, so I usually prefer to park the car and walk. You may now park on the street and easily pay for parking by mobile phone. Yet people still must queue at the post office to pay monthly bills. What a contrast! Belgrade remains rich with bars and restaurants. But now you have a choice. There are still restaurants where the staff are incomparably devoted to your needs while you chat with your friends for hours over a single coffee. And now there are also restaurants offering fast daily or businessman’s menus. When I arrived, business people just couldn’t get a speedy lunch at a restaurant. Shopping has changed. You still see people make daily visits to small food shops to buy basic supplies, but now, supermarkets and malls offer a new shopping model, one based upon a weekly trip to the store. This new style of shopping leaves the big stores empty on weekdays and increasingly crowded at weekends. No doubt about it, Belgrade is developing its economy, and Belgraders are adapting to it. Their lives are now ruled by their careers. I cannot think about Belgrade’s progress without recalling projects, such as bridge construction and repairs and a ringroad to siphon traffic out of the city centre, that have been discussed for years but which

James Gunn Atanasov Regional Director, Mmd SE Europe Nationality: British In Belgrade since: May 2008 The best thing about Belgrade is: The city in the summer, hospitality of the people, excellent standard of English language, quality of domestic food, the architecture in Stari Grad and party life on the rivers The most annoying thing about Belgrade is: Everyone complains about traffic congestion, but also the proliferation of graffiti which creates misconceptions of the city If I was mayor for one day:

never moved beyond the talking stage. I also can count many projects that were started years ago but seem to have been abandoned, frozen or drastically slowed down - St. Sava’s Church, for example. It would be nice to see these projects completed. Before I arrived, my view of Serbia and Serbs was shaped by news coverage of the wars of the 90’s. The picture I had, was of Serbian responsibility for those wars and therefore, that Serbs, generally, were troublemakers. Instead, Belgrade has turned out to be a place where the streets are safe, day or night. And over five years, I have made some of the best friends I have ever had and been welcomed into local families - families who have almost served as substitutes for the loved ones I left behind in France. My first impression of Belgrade, with its grey and decaying buildings, remains vivid in my memory: a dark, sad place, yet one which still held on to old traditions that we, in Western Europe, unfortunately lost a long time ago. Unfortunately, because Belgrade is orienting itself more toward commerce than tourism, I cannot say that today the city shines any more brightly. But I am glad I have witnessed these changes, all the more because Belgrade man-

ages to maintain a countercurrent to the rush imposed by a Western way of life. People still hold onto their heritage. Serbs still seem to take time for a quiet lunch with friends or family, or to linger over the newspaper. They enjoy the present while waiting to see what tomorrow will offer. Nevertheless, I am afraid this aspect of the Serbian character won’t last, as I foresee the continuation of rapid commercial development. Belgrade seems to have developed into a real business centre while avoiding some of the negative aspects of rapid growth. The city has managed to preserve valuable traditions and cultural monuments. I hope Belgrade can continue to keep its identity as it continues to evolve.

We fly for your smile.

We’d love to hear your thoughts too. Tell us what you like about Belgrade, what really makes you fizz with anger and what you would change if you were in charge. Send us your thoughts, tell us a little bit about yourself, and send a photo too, if you like. Send your contributions to: belgradeinsighteditor@birn.eu.com

I would encourage the launch of cheap airlines to the city allowing visitors across Europe to experience Serbia and Serbians. I feel at home because: Belgrade is safe, friendly and fun. The Stari Grad boulevards and architecture remind me of Madrid where I used to live When friends visit I always take them: Everywhere! The fortress, horseriding, Ada, a river boat, a splav or two, Grand Casino Beograd, restaurants in Vracar. Belgrade is a great hub for visiting cities across the region and resorts like Kopaonik

business

Friday, Mar. 13 - Thursday, Mar. 19, 2009

South Stream Online by 2015

IMF Talks to Start on March 16th

Russian prime minister Vladimir Putin, told a Moscow news conference that the South Stream Pipeline, which will supply 31 billion cubic metres of gas annually will be pumping gas by 2015. Costs for the project, which will see pipeline laid from Central Asia and Russia through Bulgaria, Serbia, Hungary, Italy and Greece are estimated at €10 billion. Putin told the conference that Russia had sufficient natural gas reserves to meet Europe’s demand “for practically a century.”

he IMF has announced that a delegation will be visiting Serbia for 10 days starting from March 16th, to start negotiations on a new arrangement with Serbia. Deputy Prime Minister, Mladjan Dinkic, said that the agreement with the IMF is very important for Serbia, but it is neither on its own crucial or a sufficient response to the global economic crisis. Serbia, said Dinkic, requires the arrangement with IMF in order to get further macrofinancial aid for the budget from the European Union and to increase the foreign currency reserves, vital for the defence of the exchange rate and to pay down foreign debt. This will be particularly important if foreign banks are not forthcoming in reaching agreement about refinancing loans granted to the private sector. Dinkic noted that the negotiations with foreign creditors about refinancing corporate debt in Serbia were underway, and he added that Serbia would not need IMF funding if all private foreign loans were refinanced. The EU’s support for the budget of Serbia is unlikely to be received until December at the earliest and the state may have to borrow money from the banking sector in order to cover the budget deficit. Dinkic estimated that this may require commercial loans of up to €500m.

JAT Links with Montenegrin Hotel Group In an effort to boost its regional traffic, JAT has linked up with the Montenegrin hotel chain, Stars Hotel Group. Under the deal, JAT will have access to favourable rates at the group’s hotels and will sell combined flight and hotel packages to the Montenegrin group’s properties.

Sojaprotein Nets 418.5 Million Dinars

US Steel Serbia on Short-time Working

S Steel, which is “consolidating” operations worldwide in response to a drop-off in demand brought about by the global economic downturn, has announced that employees at its Smederova facility will be put on short-time working. A company spokesperson refused to speculate on its future plans.

The plant, which is one of Serbia’s biggest employers has placed its employees on a four day working week. “All U.S. Steel Serbia Employees will take one day off on 60 per cent pay every week,” Nemanja Brkovic, a company spokesperson told Belgrade Insight in a statement. “This action will help our Company to reduce costs in a fair and reasonable way and minimise the impact of the hard economic situation on the families of our workers” he went on. When asked about U.S. Steel’s commitment to the Serbian market and future plans the spokesman said “We will not speculate about future business decisions we may make. We did consolidate production at U.S. Steel Serbia, beginning from 2009, in order to more efficiently meet our customer’s demand.” The news will come as a blow both to the employees and to the local government and businesses in the town of Smederova which rely on tax income and spending from the employees at the plant.

Belex

Gas Powered Buses for Kragujevac Kragujevac based Vulovic Transport, in association with Belarus bus manufacturer MAZ, have produced a low-floor urban bus powered by natural gas. Vulovic has been MAZ’s Serbian dealer for some years and the gas powered vehicle is a joint venture between the two companies. The chassis and bodywork come from the Minsk based manufacturer and the engines and drive train are installed by Vulovic. The companies plan to manufacture as many as 100 of the buses annually by 2011. In addition to the environmental benefits of gas power, the companies estimate that running costs will be up to 40 per cent lower than traditional diesel powered buses.

New Historic Lows

By Tijana Cvetkovic

One of the Belex’s most traded shares, Sojaprotein, a manufacturer of a range of soya products from flour through to lecithin turned over in excess of 11 billion dinars in 2008 and generated net profits of 418.5 million dinars. Sojaprotein is the largest regional producer and its products are exported throughout south-east Europe. Despite these positive results, Sojaprotein’s share price, was 494 dinars on Wednesday, some 2,900 points off its all time high of 3,399 dinars, registered in June 2008.

n period March 9-12, the Belgrade Stock Exchange remained weak with the benchmark Belex15 trading down again. The BSE indices recorded new historic low levels. The Belex15 dropped to 347.46 points, off 5,67 per cent for the week, while the Belexline touched 848.74 points a decline of 4.23 per cent.

Foreign Investors were busier than in the last few weeks, making up 32 per cent of the overall week`s trading and they continued their heavy selling in the domestic market. Velefarm tumbled 25 per cent, to 1,200 dinars and Agrobank also fell sharply by 17.84 per cent to 2,409 dinars, while AIK Bank declined by 17,29 per cent, to 1,158 dinars. Top gainers of the week were Politika (9,59 per cent), Sojaprotein (5,56 per cent) and Vital (1,89 per cent). In the reviewed period total turnover reached 370 million dinars, 3 per cent down on the previous week. The top traded issue over the period was AIK Bank from Nis with a turnover of 124 million dinars. The holding company Energoprojekt and confectionary producer Banini were second and third ranked at 46.7 million and 28.6 million respectively. Government FX bonds realised over €780k and series A2016 was as usual, most traded with €152 k. Tijana Cvetkovic is an analyst with FIMA INTERNATIONAL A.D.

business

Friday, Mar. 13 - Thursday, Mar. 19, 2009

Zastava Set to Increase Capacity With orders for the Punto at unprecendented levels, plans are being put in place for increased capacity, before production has even started. By Jovana Gligorijevic

anagers at Zastava in Kragujevac are discussing with Fiat an increase in the planned production volume of Fiat’s Punto model, even before the first vehicle has come off the production line. The current agreement foresees production of 15,000 vehicles annually, but sources believe this figure could be doubled. Technical teams are making final preparations for the start of Punto production later this month and buyers across Serbia have been rushing to place orders for the €6,999 vehicles, spurred on by Government subsidised credit. Zoran Mihajlovic, president of the Zastava Trade Union, told Balkan Insight that right now, Zastava is recieving parts for 190 cars per week, but “buyers have already reserved or placed orders for more than we can produce”. The operation can produce 10,000 cars per year, “but we already have more than that reserved by potential buyers”, said Mihajlovic. General manager of the Zastava Group, Zoran Radojevic, said that he had been surprised by the demand for the vehicle and confirmed that negotiations are underway about the expansion of production, but said he didn’t want to talk about actual numbers before the negotiations are concluded. Aleksandar Ljubic, an adviser at the Serbian economy ministry, also cofirmed that there are negotiations about expansion. “We don’t know if it’s going to be 30,000 Puntos per year, because right now the engineers are evaluating production capacity. When they AGS_Belgrade_90x88 finish, we will be to en able hi res.pdf talk about numbers.”

Fiat’s deal with the Serbian government establishes a company in which the Italian group has a 70 per cent stake and the Serbian government 30 per cent. The new company will make a total investment of €700 million, with the government contributing €200 million of this. The Zastava plant will produce two Fiat models, the Punto and a new supermini, the Topolino. The Kragujevac city authorities have already granted Fiat a 10-year tax holiday on all local taxes and contributions. Whilst the agreement was important for Serbia generally, for Kragujevac, an industrial town of around 200,000 people it was a positive lifeline, as Zastava was the only significant employer in the town. Since the Fiat deal, estate agents report that prices are up by 50 per cent, both for sale and letting and language schools report a growing number of Zastava workers and other citizens seeking to enrol in Italian language courses. The deal with Fiat and an extension of the tax holiday to all employers who start businesses and employ locals, is starting to attract other investors. A month ago there were rumours that Fiat would call off it’s deal with Zastava, as a consequence of the global economic crisis but Gilberto Ranieri, vice president of the international communications department at the Fiat Group told Belgrade weekly Vreme that Fiat confirmed, in the strongest possible terms, its committment to Serbia. “The best proof [of our commitment] is that we are going to sell Serbian made cars with our logo“, said Ranieri. Fiat’s strategy towards Serbia has not changed. Investment in Serbia was a strategic move and Fiat will keep its08:06:42 investment here, Ranieri told 2/12/2009 AM the press.

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Workers at the Zastava plant will soon be switching to production of the Fiat Punto.

Source: http://gdb.rferl.org

“Production of the Punto will start as planned in March 2009”, said Ranieri, but he added that the company would review the timing of the launch of new models. Cars from the Zastava plant

will not be for Serbian market alone and so “we have to consider the trend of the whole market”, said Ranieri. Fiat closed 2008 on a positive note with a growing share of a shrinking

market. According to Vreme, the Turin-based firm thinks that its cars are well placed in terms of price and carbon emission levels, and will sell, even in a time of crisis.

A Risky Business

Bayern Landesbank, KBC, Swedbank, and EFG Eurobank). Serbia, unlike many countries in the region, has pursued conservative banking policies, one of the reasons it has been slow to recognise the relevance of the global economic meltdown. According to National Bank of Serbia Vice Governor Mira Eric-Jovic, capital adequacy ratios in Serbia in February stood at 23 per cent, three times the European average and this has given strength to Serbia’s highly liquid banking sector. However, its high base rate of 16.5 per cent makes dinar loans expensive, and has led to an unhealthy reliance on foreign currency debt. The question now is, which support packages are the best remedy for Serbia’s specific case? So far, a meeting with the IMF to discuss a new stand-by arrangement has been postponed to 13th March, although other mechanisms are already in place. Serbia has arranged to borrow €1.5bn from a range of international institutions such as the World Bank, EIB, EBRD, and others, under a package for Eastern European countries giving ac-

cess to €24.5bn. This will be delivered in equity and debt finance, credit lines, and political risk insurance to support the banking sector and fund businesses. Fiscal targets will also need to be adjusted. Although businesses are calling for lower interest rates, a reduction in the base rate will put pressure on the currency, risking an explosion of bad debt. This represents one of Serbia’s greatest risks, driven as it is by its reliance on foreign currency loans. It is also the reason Serbia has spent €1.5billion propping up the currency since October 2008 - a figure that dwarfs the €402.5m it received from the IMF in January 2009. Indeed, in this respect, almost every country outside the Euro zone has something in common. While we watch these events unfold, arrangements from multilateral and governmental agencies are encouraging, and show that Serbia, like other Eastern European countries, is working hard to retain its recently acquired capitalist status.

Comment by Ian Mihajlovic

or a while now, I’ve been pointing out to clients the differences in risk profiles of countries in Eastern Europe to highlight why the region, and financial exposure to it, should be viewed on a country-by-country basis rather than as a single economic area. The IMF seems to agree. In the past week, the IMF announced that it will not provide a ‘blanket’ support net for Eastern Europe. The move comes after financial regulators in six CEE states warned against treating Eastern Europe as a homogenous region, a proposal initially tabled by a consortium of banks with the greatest exposure (led by Raiffeisen, the banks involved are Unicredit, Intesa Sanpaolo, Erste Bank, Societe Generale,

Ian Mihajlovic is an M&A advisor based in Belgrade

regional

Kosovo: No Cash for Recognition Pristina_Kosovo officials vehemently deny that they paid a $2 million bribe to the Maldives in order for that state to recognise Kosovo, saying that the accusation is a falsehood deliberately spread by the Serbian media to discredit their newly independent nation. “Behgjet Pacolli did not pay anything to officials of the Maldives for its recognition of Kosovo. Rather, Kosovo simply lobbied [for recognition] as it has done in many other countries. These are statements that have been cooked up in Serbia aiming to discredit the process,” said the deputy head of the Alliance for New Kosovo, Ibrahim Makolli.

Murder Charges Over Albania Building Collapse Tirana_Prosecutors in the town of Gjirokastra have indicted seven people over the collapse of an apartment building in November that left three people dead and four others injured. According to the indictment, construction work on a new building at the base of a hill where the apartment block is located, caused the collapse on November 9th. The owner of the construction company and the operator of the heavy equipment that was digging near the collapsed building have been charged with murder and five local officials were charged with abuse of power.

Folk Star Seriously Hurt Sarajevo_One of Bosnia’s most famous folk singers, Halid Beslic, 55, was seriously injured in a car accident in a northern Sarajevo suburb, after the car he was driving slid off the road. The singer, popular across the Balkans, was brought to the Sarajevo Clinical Center, with severe injuries to his face and right eye. Local media report that Beslic was alone in the car and was not wearing a safety belt at the time of the accident in the Sarajevo suburb of Vogosca.

Bulgarian Economy Grew 6 per cent in 2008 Sofia_Bulgaria’s economy grew by an annual rate of six per cent in 2008, making the country the fastest growing economy in the European Union, the Sofia Echo reports. In the final quarter of 2008, growth slowed to 3.5 per cent, half the rate that was recorded in the same months of 2007, National Statistical Institute data showed.

Friday, Mar. 13 - Thursday, Mar. 19, 2009

Albanian Sex Scandal Turns to Soap Opera After the Minister of Culture was fired over a video showing him asking for sexual favours from two young women, in exchange for jobs in his ministry, Albanians remain glued to their TV sets as the drama continues to unfold.

By Besar Likmeta

iewers from around the country sent thousands of text messages and phone calls to TV and radio stations expressing emotions that ranged from disgust to humour, while in Albanian political circles the scandal has unleashed a new chapter of recriminations, accusations and counter-accusations. Meanwhile, the disgraced minister appeared on a late night TV show, in which he admitted that the tape was real, but sought to give his side of the story, saying the whole episode was a set-up and “a fabrication by the media”. Ylli Pango, the Albanian Minister of Culture was fired after a video showing him allegedly asking for sexual favours from young women was broadcast on the investigative program ‘Fisk Fare’ on Top Channel TV. In one of the ‘interviews’, in his private villa in Tirana, the sacked minister asks a woman - who was also an undercover reporter - to take her clothes off.

“I have to see you first in a bikini so I can evaluate you,” In the recording, Pango is overhead repeatedly asking the woman to take her shirt off and come out in a bikini so that he can assess whether she is the right person for the job. Pango, a 56-year-old professor of psychology, promises to hire her if she is “brave” and said that together they would travel the world attending tourism fairs. “I’d like you to expose yourself, I liked you when I saw you,” said Pango in the audio. “I have to see you first in a bikini so I can evaluate

you,” he adds, explaining that this is necessary in order for her to work in tourism fairs. Thirty minutes after the broadcast ,Prime Minister Sali Berisha issued a statement sacking Pango. During a late night show on the private broadcaster TV Klan on Thursday, Pango rushed to give his side of the story. He claimed that he never sought sex from the undercover reporter, but had asked her to strip in order to see her body, because they had once met on a TV show and she had lost weight. “I asked to see her in a bikini because it is common at fairs around the world to appear in a bikini,” Pango said. “She showed a lot of cleavage and was provocative, so I am telling you it would be hard for any man to resist,” he added. He then accused the editors of the program that broadcast the tape of cutting some parts of the conversation in order to change its context, although he admitted that the part that was broadcast was real. Pango also accused Fisk Fare’s editors of asking for money from a lawyer he had engaged, Genc Gjokutaj, to “investigate” the matter. However, during the interview the lawyer called denying that he had ever negotiated anything on behalf of the minister, and described the meeting with the editors as a gathering between friends in which the tape was never discussed. In parliament, deputies expressed disgust and repulsion at the actions of the minister, and called for his indictment. “It’s extremely shameful, offensive, grave and shocking,” said parliamentary speaker Jozefina Topalli. “This man has betrayed the Democratic Party’s morals, the faith bestowed by his voters and should resign because he does not represent them anymore,” she added. The opposition Socialists called for an investigation, and accused the majority centre-right government of Prime Minister Berisha of dragging the country from one scandal to another. “The sewers have broken in your house, because these are the morals of this majority,” the head of the Socialist parliamentary group Valentina Leskaj said. Opposition MPs went on to attack Berisha’s appointment of Pango, noting that rumours about his behaviour have circulated for years. Criticism of the premier came also from within his ranks. Former Foreign Minister Besnik Mustafaj called on Berisha to reshape his government’s line-up ahead of the parliamentary election on June 28. “I think this is the time when Berisha should conduct a deep analysis of his government,” said Mustafaj.

Photo courtesy of Deutsch - Albanische Wirtschaftsgesellschaft e.V.

Ylli Pango is at the centre of a storm which has brought into question the moral standing of Prime Minister Sali Berisha’s government.

The usually vociferous Berisha was nowhere to be seen following the screening, even canceling a meeting at the Council of Ministers. By mid-day his office issued a statement in which it announced the new Minister of Culture, Ardian Turku, also a psychology professor.

“She showed a lot of cleavage and was provocative, so I am telling you it would be hard for any man to resist” Prosecutors have sequestered the tape recording of the incident and launched an investigation that could potentially lead to the indictment of Pango. According to some legal experts, if the claims prove true, Pango risks up to three years in prison for sexual harassment at work. Others claim the minister could also be charged with corruption because he sought sex as a bribe in exchange for a job. Berisha was returned to power in Tirana in 2005 on a “Clean Hands” platform, promising to rid the country of the endemic corruption that has plagued it, since the communist regime fell in

1991. But his opponents claim corruption in Albania has only worsened. If Pango is actually indicted he will be the third minister of the current centre-right government facing charges. Former Minister of Defence Fatmir Mediu was charged in February with abuse of power over the deadly blast at an army depot a year ago, that left 26 people dead, more than 300 wounded and roughly 3,000 homeless. Foreign Minister Lulzim Basha also faces charges of abuse of power and breaking tender rules over the construction of a highway linking Albania’s Adriatic coast with Kosovo, in an incident which experts have calculated could cost the state as much as €230 million. Berisha has repeatedly denied any wrong-doing from his ministers either in the blast case or in the construction of the highway, while ferociously attacking prosecutors, the opposition and the media, who, according to him show bias against his party’s successes. However, according to many observers, the latest sex-scandal could be harder to swallow for the conservative premier, as it comes only three months ahead of the election, and he has built his image on moral standards, often attacking his opponents as sexually deviant. Source: www.BalkanInsight.com

out & about

Friday, Mar. 13 - Thursday, Mar. 19, 2009

Source: www.panoramio.com

The winding streets and alleyways of old Skopje are home to a myriad of small shops, restaurants and cafes.

Skopje: The Divided Peaceful City Before the summer heat waves hit, go south to the capital of the most controversial country in the region. By Slobodan Georgijev

Reporting from Skopje

acedonia is surrounded by enemies. Greece does not recognise its name, Bulgaria does not recognise the existence of a separate Macedonian nation and Serbia doesn`t recognise its church, and somewhat misses the years when it all was South Serbia. A small bloody civil war in 2001, left Macedonia largely divided along ethnic lines but these days, Macedonia, and Skopje in particular is flourishing, and if you are in Belgrade and are looking for a quick gateway for the weekend, Skopje is a simple and inexpensive option. From the Serbian capital you can reach Skopje by car, along European Corridor 10 in four hours, so if you set off on Friday after work, you can arrive just in time for a Friday night out in Skopje. If you choose to go on Saturday morning, make a stop at the Predejane restaurant around 300 kilometres from Belgrade and have breakfast on the terrace enjoying the clean and cold air of the Grdelica Gorge. Continuing further south, you will go through the little town of Vladicin Han and pass close by multicultural Bujanovac and Presevo. When you cross the border, you will go through Kumanovo and in 20 minutes you turn right towards Skopje. The first thing you see will be a huge chimney of the Greek-owned Macedonian refinery. The Sulphur in the air will help you realise what you are passing by, but don’t be discouraged! Skopje is located between the Vodno hill and the mountain of Skopska crna gora and

is laid out southeast - northwest. The city is large, by Balkan standards, with a population of about 700,000, and the Vardar river bisects downtown Skopje. Formerly the capital of the Serbian emperor Dusan, the “Kameni most” (Stone Bridge), is all that remains from those times, and from the Ottoman era, only the Kale fortress, is visible. The Ottoman fortress, perched high above the town is an excellent place for an afternoon stroll or to have lunch in the restaurant where the terrace offers a great view of the centre. The Holiday Inn, in the centre of town, is a good base and offers all the usual comforts, but there are hotels to suit all purses in the town. At the budget end of the spectrum, we like the Hotel Square, also centrally located, with views over the main square, a small bar and wifi. The centre of town was almost completely rebuilt following an earthquake in 1963 which almost destroyed the city. Japanese architect Kenzo Tanga drew up the plans for today’s Skopje and we have him to thank, both for the big central square and riverside walkway, and also for the brutal concrete edifices of the shopping centre downtown. Skopje is compact enough for you to spend the morning in one of the trendy cafes by the river and have enough time to climb the Vodno hill, a retreat away from the centre of town adorned by the huge (66 metres) Millenium cross, erected in 2002 by Macedonian nationalists following the ethnic conflict in the country. From the hill you can see the whole valley which houses this city of split identities. Not unlike Mostar in Bosnia-Herzegovina, Skopje is also ethnically divided by a river. The left bank of the Vardar mostly houses eth-

Source: www.smugmug.com

The bridge across the Vardar river separates the two communities.

nic Albanians and this part of the city largely retains the spirit of its Ottoman roots. Here there are mosques in contrast to the orthodox churches on the other bank and the restored Bit Pazar bazaar is home to colourful merchants and traders and gives off the authentic feel of the spirit of Orient. There are some great bargains to be had, but beware those too good to be true prices – they usually are! If you know what you’re looking for, carpets can be great value, as can some of the gold and silver jewellery. Kebab shops and little restaurants give a middle-eastern feel to this part of the town but for some contrast, seek out the Temov restaurant and taste some excellent wines. The hungry visitor could do worse than seek out the Makedonija tavern, a ten minute walk from the central square in an unlovely location behind the Ramstore shopping mall. The traditional ambiance brings to mind an old Macedonian house. We recommend Zolta brandy

and local specialties of pindjur and “gravce na tavce”. You can wash it all down with some of the wines that Macedonian is famous for all over the world. Night time can be as quiet or as busy as you like. The area around the main square and the river bank house so many cafes and restaurants that you’re sure to find something that suits your mood, and, if you want to party on, we recommend the Marakana club at the stadium. There are live performances at weekends, when the club stays open until 2. Alternatively, near the railway station are the Castro rock club and the Coliseum disco. After Belgrade, prices in the bars, cafes and restaurants of Skopje will come as a pleasant surprise – this is not an expensive city. Best of all, you will meet people with a great sense of hospitality and kindness and you may fall in love with Skopje – this is truly a city that knows how to enjoy itself.

the belgrader

Friday, Mar. 13 - Thursday, Mar. 19, 2009

Dining Out

Cantina De Frida One of the current crop of ‘hot’ restaurants, and deservedly so, Trencherman thinks.

By Trencherman

o, last week, regular readers will recall, I ended up in my second choice of restaurant eating a very average traditional Serbian meal at Znak Pitanja. This week, I was prepared well in advance and booked ahead at Cantina de Frida. It’s a new place in Beton Hala, until recently derelict warehouses at the Sava Port. The buildings now house a very trendy and expensive gym, a nightclub, Magacin, which is home to Belgrade’s partying elite, and a number of very exclusive stores. The place looks smart, a central bar, and around 60 covers downstairs and seating on a mezzanine level for perhaps 40 or so more. It’s casually laid out - paper napkins and no tablecloths, but it’s clean and comfortable, if just a little cramped on the banquettes down the sides of the room. The menu comes on a large sheet of paper – food on one side and drinks and cocktails on the other. Half of the

food side of the menu is taken up with an interesting and varied selection of perhaps 20 tapas items which range from the more pedestrian nachos and guacamole, to the more esoteric cheviche of scampi with pink grapefruit and cucumber. The idea, it seems, is to mark up the menu and hand it to your waiter. That’s if he’s not busy elsewhere, as ours, unfortunately often seemed to be. We picked five tapas dishes, a rib eye, some chorizo sausages, pork ribs and a cheese and pear salad. The tapas were served with some excellent warm bread covered with salt crystals and served with butter mixed with pimentos. Now I am convinced that we didn’t get exactly what we ordered - I don’t recall seeing any grilled Spanish cheese with vegetables – but what we did have was excellent. Particulary good were the fried baby octopus, squid and prawns. Coated in a light spicy batter and pepped up with a little lemon juice they went down well with an aoli dip. We also liked the olives “Tangier” style, in a light harrisa broth, and the roasted peppers in a balsamic vinaigrette. The mains were served on sizzling skillets on a layer of roughly chopped onions and red and yellow peppers. The steak was served rare and was a good size but had been over-seasoned and the twang of salt obscured

Source: www.nadlanu.com

Cantina De Frida serves a great range of tapas in relaxed and unpretentious surroundings.

the flavour a little. The chorizo was lightly spicy, meaty and well grilled, but again just a little too salty. The ribs, turned out to be a rib, with a lot of meat attached – to be honest it was a chop (and no, it wasn’t me misunderstanding the menu!), but it was none the worse for that. Thick-cut, meaty with some nicely grilled fat, still attached to a satisfyingly gnawable bone. All three were served with some deep fried potato chunks which were covered in a light tomato salsa. The salad was a crisp mix of lollo rosso and rocket with ripe pear and cheese in a mayonnaise-based dressing.

To drink we chose a New Zealand Montana Chardonnay which at 2,500 was reasonable value and easy, uncomplicated drinking. But the list itself was variable. Some of it is horrendously over-priced and some like the Montana not so. I’d like to have seen a better selection of local wines. Although they had a selection from Aleksandrovic, one of Serbia’s best known producers, there was little else exciting. A delicious chocolate chilli desert – heavy on the chocolate, light on the chilli, a lemon mousse, which was perfectly flavoured, not too sharp but bursting with lemon flavour and a pancake with mascarpone and dulce de leche,

which was packed with just too much mascarpone, finished off the meal. On the whole then, this was fun, good food and a good atmosphere. A well thought out concept which deserves success. This is not a place to take that new girlfriend for a romantic date, but get to know her better, and bring her back with some friends for a fun night out. Price Guide: 2,000-2,500 dinars per person for 3 courses with a modest wine. Beton Hala, Karadjordjeva 2-4 Tel: 011 2181107

We Recommend Every week we feature a selection of restaurants picked by our team. They give a flavour of what’s out there on the Belgrade restaurant scene and should provide you with a few alternatives to get you out of your dining rut. Our choices may not always have had the full Trencherman treatment but you can be sure that one of us has eaten there and enjoyed it.

Zaplet

Kafana Cedic

Madera

Booking is essential at this famous Belgrade haunt. The food is great – we particularly like the lamb – which always seems to hit the spot. Prices are towards the top end, but nevertheless represent excellent value for money.

Sat out in the Suburbs, this place must have won prizes for its rural ethno-realistic design! But concentrate on the food which comes in huge portions and the efficient service and the really good prices and you won’t go wrong.

Our correspondent described this famous restaurant as a haunt of the liberal pensioner elite. Serbian standards and a smattering of international favourites, with good service in a smart dining room, make it a worthwhile choice for the rest of us too.

Kajmakcalanska 2 Tel. 011 2404142

Vodovodska 119 Tel. 011 2503509

The name Portobello, or calm port, characterises our restaurant perfectly. A calm, warm and cozy place for you to set sail from on a culinary journey Svetog Save 11, BELGRADE Tel/Fax: 011 2458373 www.portobello-restoran.co.rs e-mail: info@portobello-restoran.co.rs

Kalemegdanska Terasa Largely Serbian cuisine but prepared unusually well. Paradoxically we recommend going to Kalemegdanska Terasa before the terrace opens up for the summer. That way, the kitchen isn’t overloaded with all those extra people to serve, and the waiters will have time for you. Mali kalemegdan bb Tel. 011 3283011

Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 43 Tel. 011 3231332

the belgrader

Friday, Mar. 13 - Thursday, Mar. 19, 2009

Ancient Fish

Music Review: Riblja Corba, Minut sa Njom With their mediocre sound, predictable rhymes and trite lyrics, it’s hard to think that a quarter of a century ago, this was one of the country’s favourite bands. By David Galic

Reporting from Belgrade

iblja Corba, fish soup in English, are one of the most successful rock bands to come out of the former Yugoslavia. In their 1980s heyday they sold millions of albums. The band has recorded classic tracks that defined a generation, and as long as there is an acoustic guitar at a party, and someone who can play it, even a bit, you are almost guaranteed to hear an inebriated Riblja Corba medley at some point. These are all facts. But that was 25 years ago. Since then, the band has released a bucketful of forgettable albums. Its frontman and leader, Bora Djordjevic, is known to teenagers today less for being a singer and poet, and more for being an overweight guy with greasy hair who reads hokey nationalist poetry from a notebook on rarely-watched television programmes, or who hosts his own even more obscure sports betting shows with the aforementioned notebook in hand. Djordjevic’s long time nationalistic fervor hit fever pitch during the wars and collapse of Yugoslavia. His music

became more of a forum for trading insults, than for writing about life and love and whatever else made the early albums so meaningful and sincere. His stint as deputy culture minister in the government of Vojislav Kostunica ended abruptly when he was forced to resign, after accusing B92 of spying and promoting anti-Serbian politics. Is there any reason anyone would want to hear a Riblja Corba album today, all things considered? Excluding the chronically nostalgic, probably not. Any magic that existed at one point is gone, leaving the meager shell of mediocre rock music and simplistic rhyme schemes that Riblja Corba always had, as nothing more than a hollow shell, void of substance. Like a battle rapper jumping in to finish his opponents predictable punch-line, I, too, found myself finishing lines while listening to the new album, with Djordjevic’s couplet style of making sure every next line rhymes with the preceding one, leaving little room for innovation. What once was endearing now seems trite. The low point of the album, if I had to pick just one, would be the song Krilati Pegazi (Winged Pegasuses, or Pegusi, or whatever

How the mighty are fallen: Riblja Corba were once the hottest act in town, but their mojo has long gone.

the plural for Pegasus is!). As if the terrible title wasn’t enough, musically it sounds like the worst song Deep Purple never wrote.

The album ends predictably with a mournful ballad, ending with the words “I really can’t remember, the last time I was this

Source: www.vodovnik.com

unhappy,” – only in Serbia, of course. Finally, a sentiment I could relate to, having had to sit through this record.

Examining The “Tito Effect” A new exhibition explores the meaning behind the gifts that thousands of Yugoslavs offered their charismatic president-forlife, and what they say about society at the time. By David Galic

Reporting from Belgrade

ito Effect, is the name of an upcoming exhibition whose lofty goals go beyond the mere presentation of materials and items. The exhibition will display more than 500 different gifts given by citizens of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia to Yugoslavia’s then leader, in order to examine the social and cultural after-effects of his rule. The presents and gifts offered to Tito by Yugoslav citizens, now housed at the 25 May Museum, will be accompanied by new video material, showing scenes of Tito visiting construction sites, factories and meetings, presents offered to him by his loyal citizens and discussion of his persona by colleagues who lived and worked with Tito both before and during his “reign” as President for Life. The question posed by the exhibition is whether society in post-war Yugoslavia would have been able to function had it not been based round a charismatic character such as Tito. “For almost 40 years of Tito’s reign, Yugoslavia became a respect-

Even in 1986, six years after his death, when this picture was taken, the Slet, an annual celebration of Tito’s birthday, was still a huge event.

able country on the economic, military and international stage”, said Radonja Leposavic, one of those responsible for the textual presentation of the exhibition. He continued, “That is not how it seemed from the inside, but with as much freedom, bread and games as you wanted, it seems like that today, when the country no longer exists,” The exhibition focuses on Tito’s charisma and political legitimacy and looks to find different and new interpretations of the meaning behind the gifts offered to him by the people. Leposavic said the exhibition would also pose questions to people about whether the thousands of items of embroidery, models, socks and other presents disturb them in some way, and whether the “authors” of these pieces are now ashamed of them and would wish to disown any connection to them. “How many of them would hide the fact that they sent these things to Tito, gave presents, ran with batons, wrote letters, poems?” Leposavic asks. “How many of us participated, supported and maintained the charismatic character of Tito’s rule?” The exhibition opens on March 14th at the Museum of Yugoslav History and will be open until May 1st.

the belgrader

Friday, Mar. 13 - Thursday, Mar. 19, 2009

Going Out

We Recommend

Feel the Love

Friday

Kal

An absolute sensation on the world music scene in recent years, this Romany band originally from Valjevo have garnered attention locally and abroad for their impeccable blending of traditional Balkan Roma music and influences from Middle Eastern, Turkish, Latin and Jamaican music. They toured worldwide with their eponymous debut album and are back in Serbia to present new material to the eager public. Fest, Gradski Park 2

Crooners Get Top Billing on International Women’s Day

Saturday

Chris Letcher This South African singer/songwriter achieved success with the band Urban Creep before moving on to a solo career. Letcher is also involved in scoring film music and has collaborated with pop music heavyweights such as Dave Mathews. He will be presenting his solo album Frieze, which was met with glowing reviews by critics and fans alike. Spirazje, Goslvordijeva 13

Sunday

Hamlet, Hamlet, Eurotrash This cabaret-style performance looks to investigate the societal and political situation in contemporary Europe and Serbia through an analysis of the Eurovision phenomenon. It’s authors say that while it aims to shatter the illusion of a perfect Europe, it is also somewhat of a parody on the paranoid Serbian perspective on Europe and integration. Terazije Theatre, Trg Nikole Pasica 3

Monday

Mokranjac School Jubilee Photo by FoNet

Heartbreaker, Zeljko Samardzic, left the ladies gasping for more at the Belgrade Arena.

By David Galic

Reporting from Belgrade

t seems that the best way to show your significant other that you love them, if you are a male in Belgrade anyway, is by showing that your love can survive anything – even two hours of painfully sentimental pop music. The main attraction this year on International Womens’ Day was Zeljko Samardzic, who many consider to be the Serbian equivalent of Ju-

lio Iglesias, laying the charm on thick to a full Belgrade Arena of gasping females and their significantly less enthused male escorts. The middle-aged balladeer, who earlier in his career looked a little like George Clooney with his Caesar cut and silver hair, packed the Arena in this year with his traditional March 8th show, giving the crowd hit after hit of musical melodrama – and the girls ate it up, of course. Not to be outdone, Vlada Divljan, popular for his role in the influential Yugoslav band Idoli, played Dom Omladine that night.

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Divljan uttered just about every cliche possible during the course of the night, from his opening “tonight, it’s lady’s choice” remarks, to lines such as “how great it would be if every day was March 8th” and an assortment of other shmoozy one-liners. Both Divljan and Samardzic packed in an impressive number of hits, most of them – not surprisingly – appearing in the form of love songs or ballads, leaving the women in the crowd emotionally fulfilled and the males hoping that they had filled their quota of romantic concerts for the year.

The Mokranjac Music School, the oldest and largest music school in Serbia – named after Stevan Mokranjac, one of the most famous Serbian composers and educators of the 19th century – is celebrating its 110 anniversary. In honour of the occasion, a concert will be held featuring the best students of the school, who have won many domestic and international classical music competitions. Student Cultural Centre, Kralja Milana 48

Tuesday

Orthodox Celts The most popular Serbian band playing traditional Irish music hold a concert every year in Belgrade on Saint Patrick’s Day, March 17th. This year is no exception for the Orthodox Celts, who are highly influenced by bands like The Pogues. Expect the hall to be covered in the colour green and overflowing with beer. Dom Omladine, Makedonska 22

Wednesday

Ljubica Maric tribute A classical ensemble has been assembled to perform chamber music composer by the late Ljubica Maric, marking 100 years since her birth. Maric was considered to be one of the most original composers to emerge from Yugoslavia, often inspired by Byzantine Orthodox Church music. The concert will focus on her works composed between 1929-1976. Belgrade Philharmonic Hall, Studentski Trg 11

Thursday

Exhibition: Antoan Simic This will be the premiere of the artist’s exhibition of 3D graphics. Simic is a well-known comic strip author, illustrator and designer. He has spent the last seven years creating video games for Xbox and PC, working with 3D modelling, animation and creating concepts for the games. This is his first 3D graphic exhibition, having focused earlier in his career on comic and illustration exhibits. SKC Happy Gallery, Kralja Milana 48

the belgrader

Friday, Mar. 13 - Thursday, Mar. 19, 2009

What’s On CINEMAS

Nightlife:

Other:

Roda Cineplex Pozeska 83A , tel: 011 2545260

Barthelemy Vincent and Shwabe, Energija, Nusiceva 8, 23:00 Disco Plastic, Plastic, Djusina 7, 23:00 DJ Stevie, Underworld, Corner of Ruzveltova and 27. Marta, 23:00 Vocal House, Mr. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4/9, 23:00 Yu Rock, White, Pariska 1a, 23:00 Les Gigantes, Blue Moon, Knegilje Ljubice 4, 23,00 Extra Orkestar, Lava Bar, Kneza Milosa 77, 23:00 DJ Super Fly, Francuska Sobarica, Francuska 12, 23:00 Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 76, 23:00

Devil and the Dervish (ballet), National Theatre, Trg Republike 5, 19:30 My Family’s Role in the World Revolution (play), Atelje 212, Svetogorska 21, 20:00 The Pillowman (play), Belgrade Drama Theatre (BDP), Milesavska 64 20:00 Red Star vs. Zagreb (basketball), Pionir Hall, Carli Caplina 39, 20:00

Artists and Admirers (play), National Theatre, Trg Republike 5, 19:30 One Flew Over the Cukoo’s Nest (play), Belgrade Drama Theatre (BDP), Milesavska 64 20:00 Remembering Danilo “Bata” Stojkovic, Atelje 212, Svetogorska 21, 20:00 Exhibition: Zarko Bjelica (illustration), Blok Gallery, Jurija Gagrina 221, 17:00

The Great Drama (play), National Theatre, Trg Republike 5, 19:30 Exhibition: Marija Djuric (multimedia), Progress Gallery, Zmaj Jovina 8-10, 17:00

Bolt: 16:00 Madagascar: Escape 2 Africa: 16:30 He’s Just Not That Into You: 17:45 Valkyrie: 22:40 Marley and Me: 18:00, 20:15, 22:30 Dom sindikata Trg Nikole Pasica 5, tel. 011 3234849 The Curious Case of Benjamin Button: 17:00 Valkyrie: 22:15 He’s Just Not That Into You: 20:00 Marley and Me: 17:20, 19:30 Zone of the Dead: 15:30 Ster City Cinema Delta City, Jurija Gagarina 16 (Blok 67), tel: 011 2203400 Confessions Of A Shopaholic: 11:00, 13:20, 15:40, 18, 20:20, 22:30 Marley and Me: 11:20, 13:40, 16, 18:20, 20:40 He’s Just Not That Into You: 11:30, 14:00, 16:30, 19, 21:30 The Baader Meinhof Complex: 23:00 Tuckwood Cineplex Kneza Milosa 7, tel: 011 3236517 The Baader Meinhof Complex: 15:25, 18:15, 22:15 He’s Just Not That Into You: 18:00, 20:30 Valkyrie: 22:55 The Curious Case of Benjamin Button: 22:00 Dusk: 15:30 Zone of the Dead: 15:45, 17:45 The International: 21;15, 23:30 Pink Panther 2: 15:40 Marley and Me: 17:30, 20:00

Friday, March 13

Other: Dr (play), National Theatre, Trg Republike 5, 19:30 Innocence ( play), Atelje 212, Svetogorska 21, 20:00 Chicago (musical), Terazije Theatre, Terazije 29, 19:30 Exhibition: Stevan Kojic (audiovideo installation), , KCB Fine Arts allery, Kneza Mihaila 6, 17:00

Saturday, March 14 Music: Nikola Bulatovic, Terazije Theatre, Terazije 29, 19:30 Frankestra Band, Gaucosi, Dunavska 17a, 23:00 No Comment Band, Lava bar, Kneza Milosa 77, 23:00 Jailbreak, Living Room, Kralja Milana 48, 23:00 Osmi Dan, Danguba, Cirila I Metodija 2, 23:00 Lazaro Del Toro Vega & Delson Zamba, Diva Restaurant, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 2, 20:00 Fuzzbox, Fest, Gradski Park 2, 23:00

Music:

Nightlife:

Sky Wikluh, Dom Omladine, Makedonska 22, 22:00 Mad Tune Records & Fashion Urban Style, Student Cultural Centre, Kralja Milana 48, 22:00 Toca and Band, Mr. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4/9, 23:00 Pro Rock, Living Room, Kralja Milana 48, 23:00 Odium, Danguba, Cirila I Metodija 2, 23:00 Amabile, Diva Restaurant, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 2, 20:00 Kal, Fest, Gradski Park 2, 23:00

Gramaphondzije, Energija, Nusiceva 8, 23:00 House Night, Mamolo, Ilije Garasanina 26, 21:00 DJ Marko Gangbangers, Underworld, Corner of Ruzveltova and 27. Marta, 23:00 House Fever, Mr. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4/9, 23:00 Disco House Night, White, Pariska 1a, 23:00 Soul Touch, Blue Moon, Kneginje Ljubice 4, 23,00

Sunday, March 15 Music: Makao Band, Mr. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4/9, 23:00 Live Bands, Underworld, Corner of Ruzveltova and 27. Marta, 23:00 Red Wave to the Blocks, Living Room, Kralja Milana 48, 23:00 Nameless One, Danguba, Cirila I Metodija 2, 23:00 Nightlife: Sportsman Night, White, Pariska 1a, 23:00 Shaker Party, Mr. Stefan Braun’s Garden, Vojislava Ilica 86, 23:00 Karaoke, Miss Moneypenny, Ada Ciganlija (Makiska side 4), 21:30 Leftovers, Blue Moon, Knegilje Ljubice 4, 23:00 Other: Half Price (play), Belgrade Drama Theatre (BDP), Milesavska 64 20:00 BLI (play), Atelje 212, Svetogorska 21, 20:00 Exhibition: Italian comics (illustration) Italian Cultural Centre, Kneza Milosa 56, 17:00

Monday, March 16 Music: Karaoke Night, Danguba, Cirila I Metodija 2, 23:00 Don Giovanni and Friends, Living Room, Kralja Milana 48, 23:00 Nightlife: Dj Dutya, Francuska Sobarica, Francuska 12, 22:00 House Party (DJ Kobac), Blue Moon, Kneginje Ljubice 4, 23:00 Bla Bla Band, Vanila, Studentski trg 15, 22:30

Tuesday, March 17 Music: Kinky Acoustic, Miss Moneypenny, Ada Ciganlija (Makiska side 4), 21:30 Counterignition, Living Room, Kralja Milana 48, 23:00 Led Zepplin tribute band, Danguba, Cirila I Metodija 2, 23:00 Nightlife: Psychodelic Tuesday, Underworld, Corner of Ruzveltova and 27 Marta, 23:00 Diesel Party, Mr. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4/9, 23:00 Discount Night, Fest, Majke Jevrosime 20, 22:00 Zex Kazanova, Bamboo Bar, Strahinjica Bana 71, 22:00 Other: Oedipus Rex (play), National Theatre, Trg Republike 5, 19:30 Transylvania (play), Belgrade Drama Theatre (BDP), Milesavska 64 20:00 Exhibition: Anita Buncic (painting) Stara Kapetanija Gallery, Kej Oslobodjenja 8, 17:00

Wednesday, March 18 Music: Metal Battle, Living Room, Kralja Milana 48, 23:00 Nightlife: Cocktail Wednesdays, Mamolo, Ilije Garasanina 26, 21:00 DJ Ike & Prema, Plastic, Djusina 7, 23:00 Popular Science, Underworld, Corner of Ruzveltova and 27. Marta, 23:00 Karaoke Challenge, Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4/9, 23:00 Salsa Night, Havana, Nikole Spasica 1, 22:00

Thursday, March 19 Music: The Resident, Bitefart cafe, Skver Mire Trailovic 1, 22:30 Tropico Band, Lava Bar, Kneza Milosa 77, 23:00 Pro Rock, Danguba, Cirila I Metodija 2, 23:00 Nightlife: A Little Bit of 90s, Mistique, Aberdareva 1b, 23:00 Ladies’ Night, Mr Stefan Braun’s Garden, Vojislava Ilica 86, 23:00 Playground Radio Show Live, Tapas Bar, Dositejeva 17, 22:00 Other: Amy’s View (play), Atelje 212, Svetogorska 21, 20:00 Who is Singing Out There (ballet), National Theatre, Trg Republike 5, 19:30 Exhibition: Ljubomir Ivanovic (illustration), Chaos Gallery, Dositejeva 3, 17:00

sport

Friday, Mar. 13 - Thursday, Mar. 19, 2009

Premier League Quartet Sails Into Last Eight All four English clubs emulated last season’s achievement by reaching the Champions League quarter-finals. Three of them came out on top in the triple Anglo-Italian clash, while Liverpool demolished Real Madrid. in hand, Liverpool’s bid to win their first league title since 1990 will be all but over. If Steven Gerrard can reproduce his effervescent two-goal performance against Real and Torres repeats the glimpses of magic he dished out on Tuesday night, the title race may still go down the wire. Chelsea too are in with a shout on both fronts. They also trail United by seven points in the Premiership but their on-loan coach Guus Hiddink seems to have turned things around at Stamford Bridge and given Chelsea a second wind. While Chelsea may not have a realistic chance of catching United in the three-way dogfight for domestic supremacy, they must be oozing with confidence after disposing of Juventus in the Champions League, which they came agonisingly close to winning in last season’s epic final in Moscow. United, Chelsea’s slayers at the Luzhniki stadium, will be well aware of their burning desire to avenge the heart-breaking defeat on penalties and I don’t imagine Ferguson’s boys will be relishing a quarter-final showdown with a galvanised John Terry. But, who should they wish for? Surely not Barcelona or Bayern Munich, who sounded an ominous warning to the English quartet by shredding their own opposition to pieces. Bayern, another giant with bitter memories of United, made Sporting Lisbon look like a Sunday league bunch in their 12-1 aggregate destruction of the Portuguese side, while Barcelona thumped Lyon 5-2

By Zoran Milosavljevic Reporting from Belgrade

fancied Roma to knock Arsenal out of the Champions League, but it wasn’t to be. I was quite confident, however, the other three English teams in Europe’s premier club competition would overpower their rivals in the first knockout round and they didn’t let me down, although they were handed arguably the toughest draw in years. In the end, the Gunners too deserved their fortune after squeezing through to the quarter-finals on penalties, and one must wonder if the entire quartet can reach the last four, provided that they are not pitted against each other in the March 20 draw. Neutral fans must hope for at least one intruder, or the Champions League semi-final line up will look more like the penultimate round of the FA Cup. The first knockout round results once again underlined the huge gulf in quality and wealth between the Premier League and the rest of Europe. The Italian Serie A, whose clubs once struck primal fear into the hearts of their continental rivals, are now clearly second best as their English rivals have deservedly snatched that enviable accolade from their grasp. Holders Manchester United, aiming for an unprecedented five trophies, outclassed Inter Milan, while Chelsea proved too strong for Juventus. Arsenal, who may not even qualify for next season’s competition, came from behind in their dramatic penalty shootout win over Roma to inflict more misery on Francesco Totti and company, twice beaten by United in 2007 and 2008. But Liverpool provided the most impressive performance of all four, exposing Real Madrid for the spent force they are in a 5-0 aggregate drubbing of the nine-time European champions. Had it not been for an outstanding performance by Real goalkeeper Iker Casillas in their 4-0 demise at Anfield, the rout might have easily gone into double figures. Likewise, Inter never looked in the same bracket as United and only a string of superb saves by their keeper Julio Cesar allowed them to salvage a 0-0 home draw in the first leg. The writing was on the wall for Inter after Serbia’s Nemanja Vidic fired the holders ahead with an unstoppable fourth-minute header at Old Trafford, whose ‘prawn-sandwich’ brigade in the terraces, once again allowed the away fans to make their presence felt for long spells. Vidic, the top contender for the Premier League’s player-of-the-season award, put in another masterclass performance af-

at the Nou Camp after a 1-1 first-leg draw, with Leo Messi, Thierry Henry and Samuel Eto’o once again showing what a menacing triple threat they are up front for the Catalan side. Porto, the 2004 winners, earned their right to slug it out with Europe’s finest after edging Atletico Madrid on away goals while Villarreal, the 2006 semi-finalists, once again reached giddy heights by eliminating Panathinaikos, having won 2-1 in front of a hostile Athens crowd after scraping a 1-1 home draw. And make no mistake, this resilient and industrious low-key outfit from the outskirts of Valencia will be no pushovers for any of their more heralded rivals, United will testify to that after having to settle for four consecutive 0-0 draws with them in the Champions League. Hence, whatever happens in next Friday’s quarter-final draw, we are in for a treat and more drama. If you are tired of watching the battle for football’s most coveted club trophy unfold in the comfort of your armchair, join the lively and vociferous Champions League party in Belgrade’s Sport Cafe (Makedonska 4, tel: 011 3243177). Do book a table in advance though because it gets pretty crowded on match night, especially if United, Liverpool and Chelsea are in action. Zoran Milosavljevic is Belgrade Insight’s sports writer and also a regional sports correspondent for Reuters.

Live Sports on TV

Photo by FoNet

United Flying High: Vidic celebrates his opening goal against Inter with his partner in the centre of defence Rio Ferdinand. Manchester United are in the hunt for five trophies this season, having already won the Club World Cup and the English League Cup.

ter his agent had rubbished rumours that he was on his may to Inter’s bitter city foes AC Milan. Sir Alex Ferguson surely knows better than to sell the world’s most wanted central defender, just as he went to every length during the summer break to hold on to Cristiano Ronaldo, who buried the final nail in Inter’s coffin with the night’s second header

after good work by Wayne Rooney. One would imagine that United and Liverpool would prefer to stay out of each other’s way until the final in May, but they will lock horns in the Premier League on Saturday (live on RTS 2, 1.45 p.m.), in what promises to be a truly spectacular clash of the titans. Should United win and build on their seven-point lead with a game

Friday, March 13: Alpine Skiing: World Cup – Women’s Slalom (Eurosport 9.00 a.m. and 11.30 a.m.), Men’s Giant Slalom (Eurosport 9.45 a.m. and 12.15 p.m.); Ski Jumping: World Cup in Norway (Eurosport 4.30 p.m.); Rugby Union – French Top 14: Montauban v Stade Francais (Eurosport 2 at 9.30 p.m.); Soccer: Munich 1860 v Frankfurt (Sport Klub 6.00 p.m.), Wolfsburg v Schalke (Sport Klub 8.30 p.m.), Mechelen v Anderlecht (Sport Klub + 8.30 p.m.), Argentinean League Match (Sport Klub + 00.15 a.m. Saturday). Saturday, March 14: Alpine Skiing: Men’s Slalom (Eurosport, 9.00 a.m. and HRT 2 at 11.30 a.m.), Women’s Giant Slalom (Eurosport, 9.45 a.m. and 12.45 p.m.); Ski Jumping: World Cup in Norway (Eurosport 3.45 p.m.): second run at noon), Women’s Downhill (Eurosport 2 at 11.00 a.m.); Tennis: Indian Wells ATP Masters (Sport Klub 8.00 p.m.); Basketball: NLB Regional League – Cibona Zagreb v Partizan Belgrade (FOX Serbia and HRT 2 at 6.10 p.m.); Soccer: Japanese J-League – Motedio Yamagata v Nagoya Grampus Eight (Eurosport 2 at 8.00 a.m.), Dynamo Moscow v FC Moscow (Sport Klub + 12.15 p.m.), Bochum v Bayern Munich (Sport Klub + 3.30 p.m.), Manchester United v Liverpool (RTS 2 at 1.40 p.m.), Arsenal v Blackburn (RTS 2 at 4.00 p.m.), Hertha Berlin v Bayer Leverkusen (Sport Klub 4.00 p.m.), Arsenal de Sarandi v Rosa-

rio (Sport Klub 5.30 p.m.), Cagliari v Genoa (Sport Klub 6.00 p.m.), Nantes v Lorient (Sport Klub + 7.00 p.m.), Juventus v Bologna (OBN 8.30 p.m.), Athletic Bilbao v Real Madrid (FOX Serbia 10.00 p.m.), Sporting Lisbon v Rio Ave (Sport Klub 10.00 p.m.), Valencia v Recreativo Huelva (FOX Serbia 00.30 a.m. Sunday delayed), Lanus v Colon (Sport Klub + 00.45 a.m.); Sunday, March 15: Basketball: Spanish League Match (Sport Klub 12.30 p.m.), NBA Regular Season – Dallas Mavericks v L.A. Lakers (OBN at midnight); Tennis: Indian Wells ATP Masters (Sport Klub 7.00 p.m.); Soccer: Feyenoord v PSV Eindhoven (Sport Klub + 12.30 p.m.), Chelsea v Manchester City (RTS 2 at 2.30 p.m.), Bristol City v Cardiff (Sport Klub + 2.30 p.m.), Sampdoria v Roma (OBN at 3.00 p.m.), Various Italian League Matches (Sport Klub 3.00 p.m.), Spanish League Match (Kosava 5.00 p.m.), Aston Villa v Tottenham (RTS 2 at 5.00 p.m.), Hamburg v Energie Cottbus (Sport Klub 5.00 p.m.), Werder Bremen v VFB Stuttgart (Sport Klub + 5.00 p.m.), Club Brugge v Ghent (Sport Klub + 7.00 p.m.), Cibalia Vinkovci v Hajduk Split (HRT 2 at 8.10 p.m.), Inter Milan v Fiorentina (OBN 8.30 p.m.), PSG v Marseille (Sport Klub + 9.00 p.m.), Spanish League Match (Kosava 9.00 p.m.), Boca Juniors v Argentinos Juniors (Sport Klub + 10.30 p.m.), Atletico Madrid v Villarreal (FOX Serbia 11.00 p.m.);