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COLE MOHR
IM OBSESSED WITH OBSESSION
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Editor: Deputy Editor: Creative Director: Editorial Assistant: Editorial Assistant: Photographic Editor: Managing Director: Director of Finance: Research Assistants:
Fashion Intern: Research Intern:
Rosalind Okusanya Marius Kamara Chris Jones Joanne Taylor Yelena Perlin Kevin Persyn Naji Haddad Ayman Haddad Katie Bruce Holly Elston Sarah Neal Egle Cereskaite Sam Sakakini Dayna Smith Katie Grocott
Masquerade Magazine would like to thank the following people for their contribution: The Writers: Faye Cheeseman. Yelena Perlin. Katie Bruce. Joanne Taylor. Holly Woodcock. Dayna Smith. Ally M Bacon. Syed Ahsan Abbas. Photographers: Greg Vaughan. Stefani Pappas. Samuel Zakuto. Steven Chu. Lara Jade. Elias Tahan. DeAndre DaCosta. David Agbodji. Additional thanks to: Ruth M Shepherd - Proof Reader. Ali Rizvi. Gaspard Lukali. Hecabe Dufraisse. Latalia Jones. Sioned E Bannister. Natasha Al-Atassi.
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Copyright & Accreditations At the time of this magazine being published, appropriate care has been taken to certify that all the information contained within is correct to the best of our knowledge and express permissions have been granted. In instances where offence has been caused, the offending articles will be put into consideration to be removed or altered. Errors will be rectified as and when they are discovered. Any unauthorised reproduction of logos, titles, graphic elements and intellectual properties is forbidden without express consent. Automatic permission will be given only in terms of promotion of Masquerade Magazine or if it falls in the category of News. Masquerade Magazine in other Media Reproduction will only be granted in other media (press, websites, blogsites) provided there is a link and reference back to masquerademag.com and in instances where photographs or any other graphic elements have the relevant credits incorporated. If you are unsure about including material from Masquerade Magazine permission should be acquired first. The views expressed in Masquerade Magazine are of the contributors and not necessarily shared by the Magazine itself or any staff. All rights reserved. Copyright 2010 by Masquerade Magazine Ltd.
Enquiries: Editor: rosalind@masquerademag.com Photographic: kevin@masquerademag.com Editorial: jtaylor@masquerademag.com Sales: ayman@masquerademag.com Advertising: advertising@masquerademag.com Editors Note image: Ryan Connors: www.docofolio.com makeup: www.dinakoop.com www.masquerademag.com
ISSUE 5 - THE ‘COOL’ ISSUE COVER: MODEL - COLE MOHR @ RE:QUEST MODELS PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAMUEL ZAKUTO UNMASKED P.20
THE COOL KID - CHAT WITH COLE MOHR P.24 7 STEPS TO COOL
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WIKILEAKS P.66 XOOOOX - CONVERSATION WITH A WALL IN BERLIN
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HIDDEN HOSPITALITY P.82 UP & COMING - ELIZABETH STOTT
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RYAN SHCIRA
SURRENDER P.22
MASQUERADE TECH P.88 STEVEN CHU - RAVEN
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LARA JADE - MAGDELENE
ENCHANTMENT P.10
ELIAS TAHAN - SWEETNESS & LIGHT P.50 ARGENTINA
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THE 12 RULES OF COOL
DECADENT P.36
STEFANI PAPPAS - ARIS & DELILAH P.44 THE CLASS 0F 2010
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DAVID AGBODJI P.110 MALE PRODUCTS
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DEANDRE DACOSTA - BROOKLYN AFFAIR
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ULYSSE NARDIN $129,000 Chairman Diamond Edition
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ISSUE 5.
As my mind is forced & tortured The Emerald city excites & bites A known risk taker of the present Masquerade is at the top of my sights Forgive me if I can’t forgive But my alternative view will always persist With now a bond that is so rock solid The story continuously unfolds Issue 5 has now evolved…
EDITORS NOTE
Welcome to the all-new Masquerade magazine. I would like to personally thank ‘the core team’ for all their hard work and inspiration over the last 3 months.We have taken Masquerade to a complete new level – with our 1st birthday dawning by Issue 6. Internationally, Masquerade is now setting its mark. ‘THE COOL ISSUE’ Enjoy!
I would love our readers to feel free to make any comments regarding any articles within this Issue to: rosalind@masquerademag.com
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Chat with the Editor, Photos by Samuel Zakuto Ros – Hey Cole, how are you today? Cole – I’m great and today is great it’s beautiful outside and I like it!
Ros - So what do you do when you first wake up in the morning? Cole – Well, find the remainders of the beer that we had the night before. This morning when I woke up, I woke up on my broken bed - which is now just actually slanting into the floor. And I was wearing this jacket which is actually not like a good thing to wake up in – and I’ll be like ‘URRRWWW’. There are screws in there which just eat me a little bit. I wake up really, really early everyday now and so, I don’t know why?
Ros - I mean your style is pretty crazy, I love it you’re so different! So, tell me who’s your favourite fashion designer? Cole - My favourite fashion designer is, and will always be, Kim Jones. I mean – even though there are people that I would use as references from my own style, far more like Rei Kawakubo – Commes des Garçons and like Marcelo, when he was still there, was like, I mean like, come on - was making the most bizarre thing just look completely normal and that’s what I look like. But, yeah, definitely Kim Jones – he’s like one of my best friends as well, so Kim Jones.
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Ros - Cole what are you obsessed with? Cole - I’m obsessed with obsession. ‘Cause like when I went to Japan, like so much of the culture is based on obsession. Like they are obsessed with Nirvana, they are obsessed with Elvis, they are obsessed with like ‘rock n roll’. There is like ‘rock n roll’ style and there is like ‘Goth’ style – but they are obsessed! Which is weird because they have their own culture as well, so like I don’t understand. I’m kind of obsessed with obsession with Western culture. Really – because it’s really easy too… well I don’t know! I’m obsessed with Francis Bacon and stuff and like Lucian Freud. My roommate ‘Bart’ got me into Lucian Freud.
Ros – What you doing at the moment? Cole – Recently my roommate and I have been designing clothes – we have a brand called ‘Radioactive Flesh’. We deconstruct old items, we use like – ‘it’s super legal, I’m sure’ ‘cause we use like old Balenciaga, Vintage, Commes des Garçons and completely destroy it and re-customise it. (Looking down at his jacket) This is technically a Radioactive piece I’m wearing. This is like my life on a jacket – pretty mature apocalypse jacket.
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Everybody knows that James Dean is the ultimate embodiment of the stylish throng of youth, but what is it exactly that has given him this enduring reputation as the ruler of cool? To begin with, Dean was able to change the way we think about film and most importantly, about ourselves. He was one of the first male actors to gather as much attention from men as he did from the ladies. Women wanted him, men wanted to be like him. It was his casual style too that helped cement him as the king of cool, with his classic greaser look, slicked-back hair, jeans and a tight white T-shirt, capped off with a cigarette dangling from his mouth. It may not seem much by today’s style standards, but his rebellious look struck a definite removal from the predominantly preppy styles of the fifties. Dean’s influence has become evident over the years, his death at a young age transformed him into a myth and his legacy has long outlived his short time on Earth for one simple reason - he embodies the essence of cool. If you think about all the people who you think of as cool, you'll find that they may have several characteristics in common with James Dean. For those of you looking to follow in James Dean’s footsteps, there are seven steps to cool...
Written by Joanne Taylor
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1: SIT ON UNCONVENTIONAL OBJECTS
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3: SMILE STRATEGICALLY
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4: SIT AS HORIZONTAL AS POSSIBLE
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5: KEEP AN OPEN POSTURE
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7: BE COMFORTABLE IN YOUR SPACE
6: MASTER THE CONFIDENT STARE
Images - www.doctormacro.com
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“Wikileaks could become as important a journalistic tool
Julian Assange must be right at the top of the CIA’s special interest list. The journalist, hacktivist and hyped-up face of the whistleblower website Wikileaks, has been propelled into the public eye after a flustering of high-profile appearances, interviews and front-page headlines over the past few months. The man, heralded as a dangerous troublemaker by some, and a modest, shrewd modern-day hero by the majority, is in charge of the pioneering, trail-blazing web-project Wikileaks. Why this website is probably the coolest and most important new resource for the media is coming to the surface, as hundreds of confidential documents come hurtling into the excited hands of Wikileakers who push it all right back out into the public realm. Wikileaks is extraordinarily interesting once you start to dig in to the sheer wealth of information on the site. There’s something uniquely humanitarian, audacious and up-to-the-minute about it all. Each classified document, be it the annual figures of the Church of Scientology, or of the now notorious video-footage of American soldiers, arrives anonymously through state-of-the-art encryption. Most recently, US army intelligence analyst Bradley Manning has been arrested, after allegedly telling former hacker Adrian Lamo that he had passed on this particular video evidence to Wikileaks. His arrest has provoked outrage with a maximum sentence for such a so-called ‘crime’ being 52 years. Wikileaks are unable to confirm or deny whether Manning was the source of the video, “never taking personal information on [their] sources” but stated that if he was indeed the whistleblower, then, without a doubt he should be considered a “national hero”. The data that Wikileaks receives bounces around the Internet, hides its tracks, and then passes through the jurisdiction of places such as Sweden and Belgium to authorise legal protections. Wikileaks makes every effort possible to ascertain the document is legitimate, and that the source remains entirely unknown. Normally, if the whistle-blower is identified, then that particular piece of information is immediately destroyed. Backes & Strauss Berkeley 40 with one row of ideal cut diamonds technology and behind the site29 is highly innovative, yet specifics are kept tightly under wraps. retailing atThe £75,083.00 Berkeley with two rows of ideal cut haveatno£14,041.00 official headquarters, in Sweden, diamonds They retailing are hand just set ainserver 18kt white gold. and a site that appears to have
lately reactivated all of its functions after adding new kit and code. They have only one person who openly admits to working there; Assange, and he gives zilch away in the form of personal information. Stockists and information Tel: +44 (0)207 839 8709 www.backesandstrauss.com. Assange seems astutely aware of the incredible power his organization has, yet is humble about it, silently proud of the effect the site has had so far. The Australian paper, The Age, has called him “one of the most intriguing people in the world” and the “Internet's freedom fighter”.
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Written by Ally M Bacon
l as the Freedom of Information Act.” — Time Magazine
It really demands huge courage to devote your self to such work. His understanding of information, and the understanding of the impact of such information, really is way beyond the traditional mass media, not to mention the genuine danger he, his colleagues and the whistleblowers are putting themselves in. With each and every document they publish, there is no filter, no rewriting, no spin. The internet is so vast, more so than any newspaper ever can be, that they can afford to release all 1000+ pages of a document for us to mull over, not just for a sub-editor or a government official. Assange has noted about the wealth of data, “You can’t do it in newspapers because there isn’t enough space, but now with the Internet there is!” The graphic footage of the actions of those American soldiers too, if it had not been daringly released by Wikileaks, after it seems it was disclosed to them by Bradley Manning, would not consequently have thrust forward debate about the morality of warfare and our involvement in the Middle East. Additionally, on reacting to reports that Wikileaks has released more classified documents to the world than the rest of the planet’s media force ever has, Assange wryly responded; “Yeah, can it possibly be true? It’s a worry, isn’t it, that the rest of the world’s media is doing such a bad job that a little groups of activists is able to release more of that type of information that the rest of the world press combined!” This adds up to a million-plus documents being published so far on the site, ranging from a previously secret, 110-page draft report by the international investigators, Kroll, revealing allegations of huge corruption in Kenya involving the family of the former president Daniel arap Moi; a classified US intelligence report on how to marginalise Wikileaks; an internal report by the global oil trader, Trafigura, about dumping toxic waste in the Ivory Coast; and the emails leaked from the embattled Climate Research Unit at East Anglia in Britain, last November, which triggered the so-called “climate-gate” scandal. The impact of Wikileaks is enormous, as the Kroll report is said to have actually swung the Kenyan presidential election in 2007. Philosophically, though, one wonders if it is ethical to publish such juicy, confidential information, and why such a large amount of it. Why, in this decade, it is so very important to be transparent and open with things that tend to be hidden in order to protect national security? Assange has reacted by saying that, “You can’t publish a paper on physics without the full experimental data and results - that should be the standard in journalism.”
Image - wikimedia.org
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The White House has lately condemned the leak of further top secret US papers on the Afghan war, blasting WikiLeaks as “not an objective news outlet but rather an organisation that opposes US policy in Afghanistan”, threatening national security. Wikileaks’ Assange has retorted sharply, “We’re familiar with groups we expose attempting to criticise the messenger”, and that “It is up to a court to decide what is or is not a crime...that said, prima facie, there does appear to be evidence of war crimes in this material”. The backlash and over-defensiveness of the White House just goes to show that Wikileaks is succeeding in its mission, and that it is often imperative that such “secrets” are exposed. Some note that it works because people trust Wikileaks, and do not trust governments. Perhaps it’s a CIA operation itself? But with increasing popularity of the site, there will no doubt be manipulation, falsified documents and the like. Wikileaks should carefully try to stay within its niche. Nonetheless, people have even called for Assange to be awarded with the Nobel Peace Prize, and he has been bestowed standing ovations at every one of his recent talks. They are exceptionally powerful, the people’s first intelligence agency, with Wikileaks’ publications certainly in our public interest. “It shows not only the severe incidents but also the general squalor of war, from the death of individual children to major operations that kill hundreds”, says Assange. In the end, he and other web activists are admirably seizing the power to uncover state secrets, to expose human-rights violations, to be a force for democracy, for freedom of expression and for truth. A little sunlight will go a long way by the power of these leakers and whistle-blowers, to illuminate what all those bad guys try to stifle and hide away in the dark.
Wikileaks: dumping of toxic waste in the Ivory Coast. Image: wikileaks.org
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iFRAME
www.griffintechnology.com
Photography Stefani Pappas
overleaf: Delilah - Necklaces, Delilahs own. Aris - Shirt by The Garment Room. overleaf: Delilah - Top by Pamela Pomeroy, Shorts by Tsbui. left: Aris - Shirt from The Garment Room, Pants from General Idea, Socks - Sock Man. above: Delilah - Sweater from Y's. Aris - Sweater by Junya Watanabe.
Delilah - Top and pants by General Idea, Sneakers by Adidas. Aris - Jacket by NSW, Skirt by Junya Watanabe, Pants by Kimberly Ovitz, Sneakers by Vans.
Aris - Dress by Tsbui. Delilah - Dress by Kimberly Ovitz.
Stylist - Katharine Erwin. Make up - Mariko Hirano. Models - Aris Schwabe @ Fusion (NYC). Delilah Jesinkey.
THOMAS SABO www.thomassabo.com
As the only college in the UK specialising in fashion education, the London College of Fashion has a deserved reputation as the generator of the next big thing. Faye Cheeseman learns more about its illustrious alumni and investigates ‘Harrods Launches’, an edited line-up of this year’s graduate collections and the next generation of cool.
Written By Faye Cheeseman
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Image - Luis Gomez de Barreda
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in 1906, the London College of Fashion (LCF) has a roll call of past students that increasingly reads like a ‘Who’s Who’ of fashion today. Famous alumni cover all sectors of the fashion industry from journalism to footwear and include Patrick Cox, Angela Buttolph, Jacques Azagury and, most famously, Jimmy Choo. The College also boasts a series of visiting lecturers that makes it clear why places here are so sought -after: Tom Ford, Alexandra Shulman (editor of British Vogue), and Donatella Versace have all spoken at the College in recent years. Past students speak in breathless, honeyed tones of the influence of the College on their lives, work and careers. It’s a hallowed place for those with a passion for fashion.
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By contrast, the concept of cool is elusive and fickle. It’s a status that is more often stumbled into than earned. Those who stay there for the long-term survive by living in a perpetual state of tomorrow; they’re the people who know what we want before we want it. The persistently sub-zero status of the LCF is a tantalising prospect for the retailers of the fashion world, and everybody wants a slice of the LCF pie. The force of what is ‘cool’ arguably drives the fashion world. The market is continually crying out for new names, as collections by the up- and-coming of the industry are in high demand. In some ways, there are echoes of the music industry and the underground gig: there’s a real sense of kudos attached to having been there at the birth of something good. It’s cooler to be the die-hard fan who suffered through the low-key, basement gigs waiting for the big time. And as much as we will always adore the likes of Chanel or Dior, we can’t claim to have witnessed their wide-eyed debut or predicted their stratospheric rise. Each time the gates of the LCF let loose the next flood of graduates, there is a chance that the next big thing has been launched onto our streets and into the market.
BAARTMANS AND SIEGEL
JACKIE JS LEE Photography by RAMA,Styling by Kevin.
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With their fast-paced approach to fashion, the High Street has always been quick to get in on the act. New Look recently announced a collaboration with the LCF in the hope of finding the very best talent from the MA Fashion Footwear student body. A shortlist of eight students made it through with their 2-D designs. Next, the project goes 3-D with the creation of prototypes of their shoes. The winner will be announced in December 2010, and they’ll launch their collection in New Look stores in March 2011.
HASAN HEJAZI
Past LCF students have even lowered the temperature at Oxfam stores, supporting the transition of thrift and ecofashion from marginal to mainstream by reworking second-hand clothing into desirable new items, launched at the Oxfam boutique stores in London. So who are the names to watch out for in A/W 2010? Harrods thinks it knows, and for the second year running will bring its pick of this year’s graduate class to the consumer via their collection ‘Harrods Launches’. Last year saw the debuts of Manjit Deu and Iris Van Herpen. This year, Harrods are putting their money on four new names. First up for the fashion purists is Jackie JS Lee. Her clean lines and subtle colours are elevated by her masterly marriage of classic tailoring and edgy pattern- cutting. These are androgynous clothes designed to flatter and enhance the body, most definitely not the kind of clothes that could end up wearing you.
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Photos - Blow agency
NICOLE MURRAY
Also on the menu is the feminine richness of Nicole Murray’s lavish 1930s Parisian-inspired collection. This is womenswear for Women with a capital W. Luxurious fabrics, sumptuous colours and a silhouette that reminds you why it’s great to be female. This line is recommended for anyone who has ever looked at Marion Cotillard and yearned for her stylist’s phone number. For those with a theatrical bent, there is Hasan Hejazi, who utilises sequins and goat’s fur dyed in rich pinks, blues and purples. His collection is a fabulous mélange of excessive fun and the glamorous.
Photos - www.catwalking.com
And the men haven’t been left out either. Baartmans and Siegel are influenced by the Depression- era styles of the 1920s and 30s. Their dichotomous collection is classic and modern, structured yet informal, and includes a line of rich textures and a sense of sharp tailoring. Harrods’ beautiful presentation of these new designers reinforces the notion that fashion is art, and perhaps it’s best to approach it in this way. Whether these designers transcend the ‘cool’ of today to become the ‘legend’ of tomorrow, is yet to be seen. And it becomes less important when the clothes are this beautiful. Pick cannily, see your purchase as an investment, and ultimately just choose something you love. You’ll be spoilt for choice. 49
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ARGENTINA An explorer’s paradise; a vast country of striking landscapes and a vivacious way of life, embodied by an eclecticism of natural wonders and a climate like no other. This country’s land stretches from the southern tip of South America up to Bolivia, and, with a length of 3500km, this surprising nation is close to the size of India, giving voyagers an endless variety of sights to discover and explore. Whilst thousands of visitors pass through Argentina each year, what often remains foreign to them is the profound and traditional culture embedded within the motherland. From the masculine and gallant Gauchos to the fierce and tantalising Tango dancers, Argentina is full of pleasures that continue to delight and astonish travellers from across the globe. Understanding Argentina’s past is paramount to understanding its present and, most importantly, to understanding Argentines themselves. Wherever you go in Argentina, you will inevitably be struck by the impressive and mystical magnetism of the tango. Slightly different to traditional ballroom tango, the Argentine adaptation encapsulates a genus of ferocity and a greater display of passion. A combination of styles from across South America; notably Uruguay, Chile and, of course, Argentina all blend together to make this extraordinary exhibition. The tango began in the lower-class districts of Buenos Aires in the latter half of the 19th century, and has been influenced by the music, the settings and the fashion of past eras. The themes always refer to the ordinary man and his problems, the city, or to distant memories, making the Argentine Tango a portrayal of Buenos Aires and its people. Dancers must focus on the speed of the music and, more importantly, the emotion that should be conveyed; often an intense passion, explaining why the Argentine Tango relies heavily on improvisation. Whether you are an honoured onlooker in a Dancing House, a café or a courtyard, the Tango is a mesmerizing sight that won’t be easily forgotten. Everybody knows that Argentina is famed for its juicy steaks, and we have the Gauchos (or Cowboys) to thank for that. One of the principal motives to visit an Estancia (or Cowboy Ranch) today is for the mouth-watering smells and the scrumptious tastes of the asado, otherwise known as an almighty barbeque. Not only will you feel like a country rancher as you sink your teeth into a succulent steak, but sitting watching a traditional folk-dance as you sip on a mate (a very traditional Argentine tea) will have you feeling like a Gaucho in no time...
Written by Joanne Taylor
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The Gaucho has become one of the most recognisable symbols of Argentine existence, encompassing strength, fervour and national pride. Living and working in surroundings that are so impressive and so full of historical depth, it is easy to see why these establishments have become so uniquely alluring. There’s no better place to grasp a taste of Gaucho life, but few come to experience the real life behind the showmen. Not to be confused with John Wayne or Butch Cassidy, these Gauchos are certainly not your typical Western bandits. Much like the Wild West Cowboy though, Gauchos are proud to be great horse riders, often using this talent to produce spectacular performances for tourists and locals alike. Only the one, true, lucky lady though, would be graced with the ‘red ring’ upon the show’s finale. Gauchos have quite a distinctive look, and far removed from the buckled boots and chequered shirts of the American Cowboy, the Gaucho is somewhat practical, using his poncho to double up as a saddle blanket and a sleeping rug. No cowboy would be complete without his trusty hat, and the Gaucho is no exception to this. With the Argentine sun reaching scorching heights of 40 degrees during the months of January and March, the Gauchos call out for a cover from the blazing heat. Whilst a lot of what we hear about estancias today is romanticised and imagined, these places, and the Gauchos within them, still exist and continue to form an integral part of South American culture. As in the past, these modern-day Gauchos continue to place a large reliance on their four-legged friends, who continue to tell a fascinating and enchanting story of days gone by. Argentina has a few celebrity faces too, and has raised stars such as Evita Perón, famed for her entrancing opera performances, and Maradona; the celebrated football hero who is thought to be one of the finest players of all time. The hub of Argentine football is no doubt La Boca, a ghetto area in the heart of Buenos Aires. This poverty-stricken yet soulful area is a must-see of Argentina, with its vibrantly coloured dwellings and its original tango-graced café-bars. What makes this country so special though, is its residents, who all move to the rhythm of their own life, making the time to dine, dress and rest, all in an extraordinary fashion. No one seems to return home from this country without a feeling that they somehow understand more about the deep and meaningful culture of South America, and I, for one, was definitely no exception to this.
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Photography by Joanne Taylor 58
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Photography by David Agbodji
Photographer: David Agbodji Model: Cody @ Re:Quest Models
A conversation with a wa
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all in Berlin Written by Katie Bruce
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Unless you walk around the city of Berlin with your eyes shut, you cannot fail to notice how graffiti has transformed almost every possible surface into an extraordinary outdoor gallery. The latest face to adorn these façades is the infamous XooooX, a graffiti artist born and bred in this very city. Once seen to be on a par with vandalism, graffiti reached recognition as an art form several decades ago. This has escalated of late, with many artists trading in walls for canvases and selling prints with prices to match Renaissance masterpieces. Similar to billboard advertising, posters, and flyers, urban art is usually exhibited on the street. Street artists challenge the subjective opinions of personal taste and values, motivating deliberations and stimulating thoughts about our society, all presented with the help of the city walls. Mystery still surrounds the true identity of XooooX, mainly because the artist endeavours to keep his identity hidden to prevent further imprisonment. Simply pronounced XoX, he chose the name for its purity and symmetry. XooooX proposes a sleek aesthetic that is delicately feminine, concentrated and well balanced. The feminine elegance to the work could suggest the artist is a woman, but he appears, in fact, to be a man - influenced by the women he grew up with, as well as fashion and an array of magazines. “I like the way of sensibility for everything that women have and the way to wear clothes”, said XooooX, in a rare interview with the Japanese magazine Shift – “It is a big, clever game they are playing every day. Their wardrobe is a big arsenal of weapons. It is a homage for women, too.”
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The life-size, seductive stencils are perfectly styled and form a recurring theme of beautiful women that communicates a sense of melancholy and nervousness. With an admirable attention to the concepts of fashion, appearance and superficiality, it is understandable that XooooX is observing behaviours of the consumption-driven hype within the ever more demanding fashion industry. By constructing his glamorously themed art on temporary canvases such as building façades, exposed wood, rotting fabric and rusty metals, you begin to notice a statement of respect to the traditions of Haute Couture, and a reference to the widespread criticisms of the industrialisation of fashion. XooooX’s creative interventions appear as a critical interpretation of modern fashion culture and branding. This is further proved by his intentional manipulation of luxury fashion logos. These modified logos, including Hermes and Chanel, are meant to be understood as homage to traditional fashion brands of style and elegance, but also a re-contextualisation of these exclusive symbols, with the aim of making people realise how easily they can be blinded by a beautiful appearance. “I want to get them, even behind the glossy façade to look”, said XooooX – “because with the right campaign, you can sell people it all. Also in Art: the soup cans of Andy Warhol represent a good example”. The subliminal impact of the work questions the values of the fashion industry through the notion of revolutionary art, developing ideas akin to the Arte Povera movement. XooooX is the new cool of the urban art scene, by contributing a new face to street art that includes actions and intelligent reflection. XooooX has threatened to stop creating his vibrant and original street art if the growing trend continues, as he wants to remain an underground rebel in the city landscape. He is hoping for the Berlin art bubble to burst so that he can continue to thrive without too much media attention. So watch this space Blek le rat and Banksy; Berlin has a new larger-thanlife stencil on the scene.
www.xoooox.com
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HUBLOT BIG BANG All White Diamonds
www.hublot.ch
WWW.CALLEIJA.COM
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HIDDEN HOSPITALITY Written by Dayna Smith
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INVISIBLE HOTEL In Sweden just 40 miles south from the Arctic Circle an innovative new hotel has just opened amongst the trees. Architects Bolle Tham and Martin Videg책rd wanted to provide something a little different from what was already out there, something more progressive and contemporary and so they came up with the invisible hotel. The inspiration for the hotel came from the documentary Tradelskaren (The Tree Lover) a 2008 Swedish production which follows the adventures of three urbanites who attempt to get back to their roots by building a tree house together. The Invisible Hotel also known as the Mirrorcube is one of a collection of cabins that make up the tree hotel. The Mirrorcube is a lightweight aluminium structure coated in mirrored glass to effectively camouflage it; making the room appear from nowhere to outsiders whilst offering stunning views from the inside out for the residents. The units are constructed from sustainably harvested wood and have electric radiant floor heating and a state of the art, eco friendly, incineration toilet. Tham and Videg책rd relied on subtle shifts in scale and unexpected material choices to create buildings whose surprising simplicity turned out to be a refreshing twist. This beautifully surreal Invisible Hotel is now open to the public so everyone can experience the untouched forest, if you can find it.
Images - www.tvark.se
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Up and coming...
E. Stott Growing up in Nantwich, a small town nestled in the heart of Cheshire, England, Kingston University fashion graduate and one-time Brooks Brothers competition winner, Elizabeth Stott, knew there was more to life that just “twin sets and topshop�.
Written by Holly Woodcock
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SPONTANEITY, AMALGAMATION Having gained prestigious work experience at Giles Deacon and Jens Laugesen, to name but two, Stott’s collections are now stocked in London’s The Convenience Store, where she regularly collaborates on projects with Andrew Ibi, the shop’s owner. She describes her personality and mentality as the enabling factors in helping her to stand out from the crowd and allowing her to go against the previous advice given to her; that design was too hard a career path to follow. Stott proudly recalls,“It made me want to do it more, to be honest”. Her stubborn nature and drive to create something interesting, desirable and intelligent ripples out into Stott’s design process. “When designing, I often use knowledge I have already acquired from other aspects in life”, she says. Rather than hinder the designer, the small town upbringing Stott received often inspires her work. On this subject she believes “Intelligent design comes from an in-depth knowledge of the subject. For example, I clipped the reindeer overcoat in the same way as you would do a trace clip on a horse. I only know the technique because I have experienced the process, otherwise it would be irrelevant to my collection.” When asked where else she draws inspiration from, it became evident that the work of Lancashire-born artist L S Lowry is a key source of her muse. “Being from near Manchester, I suppose, subliminally his work has always been around me”, she says, and her appreciation of Lowry’s techniques and acute attention to detail is evident throughout the design process. “His ‘Dreamscapes’ are made up of a matrix of industrial aspects placed together for their aesthetic value. I reference recognisable garment details, but place them in a situation where they are instantly disassociated with the original source.” Away from the North of England, museums in New York also help her to collect and collate her ideas, and she found she was often more interested in the development and creative process, than the eventual outcome. “My research then became analytical, in the sense that it involved an analysis of garments, breaking them down into elements or principles. I studied what makes items of clothing recognisable and identifiable from one another, testing how far these associations stretch and whether it is possible to blur the boundaries of this categorisation, without losing the garments’ integrity.” For her A/W ’09 collection; spontaneity, amalgamation and minimalism were three key words used to generate ideas, her aim being to describe visually the relationship between the clothes and their context. To take an example of this, she created wire
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N, MINIMALISM life-size models referencing positions found during her research into the Byzantium’s and physical training regimes. She then took the patterns from these models but instead used recognisable details from motorcycle jackets and laboratory coats. Stott generally shies away from colour, instead sticking largely to a black palette, and tends not to tie herself down to ‘themes’. She feels that colour can often take away from the design, and with unusual goat hair busbies paired with laser-cut biker jackets, clipped reindeer coats and velvet t-shirt dresses, colour is the last thing the designer wants on her customers’ minds. Designing specifically with a ‘connoisseur of design’ in mind, Stott admits that her clothes aren’t for everyone, but instead someone with an appreciation for the ideas and process behind each and every garment. Colour isn’t the only well-thought out aspect of Stott’s designs. Fabric is also crucial to the breakdown of her projects and enables a redefinition of an otherwise recognisable piece. “I used silk over wool in my collection to act as if it was a waterproof fabric. For me, it was interesting to see a silk garment over a wool coat”, she admits. Stott received her first big break in January 2008 when she won a design competition with London’s legendary Brooks Brothers, after which she helped to design their S/S ’09 collection. Since then, she has gone on to graduate with a First Class Honours Degree in Fashion, and is now working alongside Michael Hurtz at Bally, as well as showcasing her own collection at the previously mentioned The Convenience Store. Having a lot to look forward to when it comes to the next chapter in the E Stott story, the designer is currently toying with the idea of accepting her place on the Womenswear MA course at the prestigious Royal College of Art. If she decides against that, then there’s always staying on at Bally for a further year to fall back on, not bad for a young woman from a small town, with big ambition. Whichever option Elizabeth goes for, she will all the while be continuing to concentrate on creating unique products that epitomise her design ethos. With experience at Aquascutum and J Smith Esquire behind her already, and having caught the eye of both Michael Hurtz and the Brooks Brothers Store, her reputation is already one step ahead of her peers, predicting a bright future ahead.
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Photography Steven Chu
Top - Prada. Skirt - Dolce & Gabbana.
Marie Saint Pierre www.mariesaintpierre.com
Marie Saint Pierre www.mariesaintpierre.com
Photos by Steven Chu Model - Maddie Welch @ Supreme Styling by Marc Sifuentes Beauty by Ariel Vega
Photography Lara Jade
Overleaf: Rings - Stylists own, Topshop, vintage. Cuffs - Topshop. Tshirt - Silence and Noise. Above: Feathered Earrings - Stylists own. Shirt - Cos.
Flower Headpiece - Stylists own. Leather jacket - vintage.
Turban - vintage. Beaded vest - Topshop.
Knitted hat - Stylists own.
Photographer: Lara Jade Model: Amy Groves @ Elite NYC. MUA & Hair: Jen Myles. Styling - Lauren Armes.
Hat - vintage. Veil - vintage. Blouse - Cos.
www.thierrymugler.com
RYAN SCHIRA
Photographed by Greg Vaughan
Written by Yelena Perlin
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Ryan Schira’s ambition is infectious. “We definitely want to do this full time,” says Ryan. “Music is my passion. It’s what I want to do for as long as I can do it.” Ryan, a 22-year-old Bronx native can’t help but light up as he talks about his band, ‘Safe to Say’, in which he plays lead guitar and does backup vocals. He, however, is no novice to the entertainment industry: Ryan’s modelled at Re:Quest Model Management in New York for the last six years and is still going strong...
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Ryan was scouted to be a model at the age of 16. “I got stopped waiting to cross the street and I laughed it off, [my friends and I] joked about it,” says Ryan. “I think I jammed the card into my pocket.” Since then, Ryan has gone on to model in countless magazine and star in campaigns for Marc Jacobs and Diesel, among others.
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In the midst of modelling and attending school, Ryan wrote music acoustically with fellow band mate Lowell Thompson. They ended up going on to record the songs independently as a complete album with a full band, pulling his brother Devan on board. “We kind of self-produced and self-engineered the first entire record,” says Ryan. A second full record, “Pardon the Introduction,” followed the first EP, “Wait & See.” Ryan and his band mates, who include his brother Devan, Lowell, and drummer Brett Schneider, are finishing up their third independently recorded album, but to Ryan it is more like the first. “It’s a little bit more concise and focused,” says Ryan. “I think we are ready to push and ride [it] out as ‘Safe to Say’s’ first album.” This isn’t to say ‘Safe to Say’ has not done well thus far, playing shows at New York’s Webster Hall and Nokia Theatre, especially considering their promotion has been mostly through local efforts and word-of-mouth. But the passive behaviour is intentional. “I think a big thing was waiting for this record and waiting for a product that we felt more comfortable to push”, says Ryan. Now, if being in a band and modelling weren’t enough, Ryan is also one of the stars of Tatiana von Furstenberg (Diane’s daughter) and Francesca Gregorini’s film, Tanner Hall. “I fell into this role for the film,” says Ryan. With the help of Amy Ferguson, fellow Re:Quest model and a friend of Booker Samuel, Ryan’s name was thrown into the mix for the role of Peter. “I think I got a phone call and 48 hours later was on set,” says Ryan. “It was a little [pauses], it was really nerve-racking actually, but the girls were really great in helping me find my comfort level and figure out what I was doing.” Although Ryan doesn’t consider himself a fully-fledged actor, being a part of a feature film has shed a new light on the career for him. “I enjoyed it a lot and it’s kind of lit a new flame.” After talking to Ryan, you can’t help but want him to succeed. It’s not often you meet someone with his accomplishments who is equally humble. That isn’t to say Ryan hasn’t changed since he was first scouted. “Sam always jokes about the fact that I never used to talk,” says Ryan. “I used to be like that shy little kid who would just sit down and keep to myself.” More comfortable with himself, he’s able to open up more. “When I’m in my comfort zone, I’m a total goofball,” says Ryan. Now this is something we can all appreciate.
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Photographer - Greg Vaughan
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M A S Q U E R A D E
M A N
Written by Syed Ahsan Abbas
COMME DES GARÇONS WONDERWOOD PERFUME As far as fragrances go, Comme des Garçons are unique in their ability to truly surprise the olfactory senses. Their newest fragrance, Wonderwood, which was developed by perfumier Antoine Lie (whose expertise also lay behind CdG’s unusual 8 88 fragrance), is described as ‘an evocation of exuberance’. In practice, this exuberance is found, as the name so aptly suggests, in a plethora of woody and wood-inspired notes. The fluid nature of the fragrance means that base and heart notes will vary according to wearer. However, with notes including incense, gaiac wood, cedar, sandalwood and vetiver, it promises to be anything but boring. www.shop.doverstreetmarket.com
ALBAM GREY MARL SWEATSHIRT The grey sweatshirt is iconic in the realm of menswear. Yet despite that, finding the perfect sweatshirt can be a hard task. It ought to be slim enough to look great with an Oxford shirt and chinos, but casual enough to be a comfortable staple. Albam have designed a sweatshirt that pretty much ticks all the boxes. A no nonsense grey marl sweatshirt, it is as classic as those worn by JFK or James Dean. Flat-locked seams provide a functional strength to the construction, meaning this piece will last. The highlight in design would have to be the interior elbow patches, assuring the wearer that Albam really have put thought into the everyday wear and tear of the garment. www.oipolloi.com
COLETTE SEX CANDLE An Englishman’s home is his castle, but in practice castles were not always the most pleasant-smelling places. Home fragrance is important, however, cheap air freshener is probably worse than using nothing at all. The world of candles can quickly become an expensive place and, unless you really know what scents you like, it is easy to be parted quickly and unscrupulously from your hard-earned money. Thankfully, the French concept store Colette offers a range of affordable, and not to mention pleasant smelling, candles. Whilst their Pop Corn scented offering is mightily tempting, their infamous Sex candle is perfect for those moments when you need your home to smell nice. Colette actually collaborates with designers and artists to create the candle boxes, so these are always a nice collector’s piece, to boot. 51 81 0
www.colette.fr
VANS INCA FLOWER SK8 HI LX Vans have long been the go-to trainers for skater kids and backpackers. However, with both independent and high profile collaborative design-led releases, the company also offer trainers so good looking you may not want to risk the half pipe in them. Their latest collection sees the release of the luxury Inca Flower range, coming in both the Sk8 Hi and Vault Era models. The intricately embroidered Inca Flower patterning set the contrasting colour ways off superbly. The embroidery actually allows for a luxurious, quilted finish that certainly distinguishes the manufacture from your average printed design. www.highsnobiety.com
THE PANDA PEOPLE BOOK Henrik Vibskov is one of the more colourful cult designers Scandinavia has to offer. He is particularly famous for the weird and wonderful imaginary worlds he creates behind each collection, allowing his clothing to come out of a broader concept than most designers could possibly provide. With The Panda People and Other Works, Vibskov’s second foray into publication, Vibskov gives the reader a rare insight into one such world, that of the eponymous Panda People. A limited-edition 52-page book, it is a graphic delight, and a must-have for any Vibskov fan. www.the-v-store.com www.henrikvibskovprints.com
FJÄLLRÄVEN KÅNKEN BACKPACK A good canvas and leather hold-all is the perfect weekend bag.However, sometimes you need a day bag that is a little more comfortable to lug around. The Kånken, from Swedish outdoors experts Fjällräven, is a lightweight, retro backpack that comes in a multitude of colours. First released in 1978, the Kånken has an understated design that is far from the overblown hiking and camping bags that provide function (and lots of straps) without any real beauty. School may be out, but these bags still rock. www.fjallraven.com
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HYDRA PIANO by Apostol Tnokovski Fluid, Organic. These are just two words that describe this modern piano, inspired by the mythological sea monster “Hydra”. A classical square piano given a new design and modern twist. The object was to design a modern piano which would fit into the style of today’s musical artists and stage shows. Big, bold, large and impressive in two colours, pure glossy white or black.
www.coroflot.com/tnokovski
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The duo’s largest source of publicity comes from the people who want them to be heard—those of the blogosphere. The 2007 drop of ‘Boyz’ set off a frenzy among all music bloggers and the song reached the top of the Hype Machine chart. It became one of the most talked about remixes of the year, putting The Twelves on the map and leading to a slew of other The Twelves’ remixes reaching the top of blog charts. This year alone, they have been at number one on Hype Machine over 30 times, including their remix of Daft Punk’s ‘Night Vision’ topping it on four different occasions. Officially on insider status, the Twelves are now commissioned by top artists to create remixes. They’ve thrown down their original sounds on La Roux’s ‘In For The Kill’, A-Ha’s ‘Take On Me’, Groove Armada's ‘Drop the Tough’ and Metric’s ‘Help I’m Alive’, among others. The result of all of these remixes and the reason for the group’s success, is the ability of their songs to stand on their own, differing entirely from their original counterparts. Not everyone can make a crowd dance to Radiohead. It is not hard to say that their remixes can often trump the originals. The greatest part of The Twelves’ live deejay set and the most important part, is the danceability factor of their music. The group’s carefree improvs feel intuitively right.
The essence of cool is effortless and innate; the coolest people just are. They are the ones simply ‘in-the-know’ and this is the case with The Twelves. João Miguel and Luciano Oliveira first broke into the music scene with a remix of M.I.A.’s ‘Boyz.’ Since then, they’ve gained quite the following and have yet to even put out an album for sale. The deejay duo’s name comes from the pure coincidence of a shared birthday, the twelfth of July of 1980. As a pair hailing from Rio de Janeiro, they can keep it chill. The Twelves’ success comes from knowing just what people want to hear—and no, we’re not talking about Top-40 jams. Their live deejay sets mix of-the-moment indie hits with iconic electronic music, including everything from Lykke Li and Empire of the Sun to Metric and Cut Copy. The sound of the duo is undeniably recognisable. Their beats are throwbacks to the 1970’s with inspired drum loops and midi keyboard hooks. They make an effort to not try too hard and believe their best work comes out of mistakes and experimentation. Of course, this is much easier to do when you haven’t created the music yourself and The Twelves have voiced that on different occasions. The duo seeks out songs with strong vocals, bringing in their own edge. Often receiving comparisons with another famous DJ duo, The Twelves have been dubbed by some as ‘Rio de Janeiro’s answer to Daft Punk.’ Their unique sound hints at influences from a variety of artists and genres, but those most influential include Daft Punk, MSTRKRFT, Röyksopp, Vitalic, Cut Copy and Goldfrapp, along with roots in electro-funk.
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Photos: overleaf - Nokiatrends. above - Charline Messa. right - Felipe Fontecilla
The Twelves succeed in breaking through the clutter of overproduced tracks. The duo strays from the current trend of electronic music that is overpowered with bass, but rather brings it back to the origins of disco and funk and arguably, the beginnings of cool. The Twelves don’t try to be cool—they just are.
ONEYBIKE by Peter Varga Oneybike is a leisure bicycle concept inspired by the classical highwheeler simplicity, connected with comfort of recumbent bike with retro feeling.
www.petovdesign.com
Photography by DeAndre DaCosta
Overleaf: Vest - Seven for all mankind Bra T - Alexander Wang Shorts - Bess Tights - H&M Shoes - BCBG Jewelry - Charles Albert Right: Leotard - American apparel Shorts - Alliomi Tights - H&M Shoes - BCBG Belt - Aliomi Rings - Lia Sophia
Corset - Vivienne Westwood Shorts - Aliomi Tights - Christopher Kane Shoes - BCBG Jewelry - Charles Albert Tail - Ailomi
Photographer - DeAndre DaCosta Model - Sherica @ Re:Quest Models Makeup: Sir John B Hair: Lauren McCowan Stylist: Donald Hicks Manicurist: Aya Fukuda
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www.ducati.com
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THE BEAUTIFUL GAME
11 is a luxury football table for discerning lovers of the world’s favourite game. Now developed for limited production.
www.eleventhegame.com
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