THE BIG BLUE

IT’S HARD TO IMAGINE THAT LESS THAN TWOHUNDRED YEARS AGO, SLIEMA WAS MOSTLY FIELDS. THE SLEEPY FISHING VILLAGE CAUGHT THE EYE OF THE BRITISH AFTER THEIR ARRIVAL IN MALTA IN 1800, WHO SET UP HOMES FOR THE LANDED GENTRY IN THE AREA.

In 1885, the Stella Maris church was opened to the public and the village began developing into a town thereafter. Families linked to the British navy became residents, and wealthy Valletta and Three Cities families with their summer houses followed suit. This trendy escape to the seaside demographic grew and grew to the Sliema we now know.

Today, Sliema is a prized tourist destination and an international hub for technology whizzes who live side by side with long-term residents. Sliema may seem like a ready-built modern playground, with its air-conditioned malls and luxury apartments, but it has a rich colonial-era history still felt in its Art Deco and Art Nouveau architecture in the quieter residential quarters. With a central red phone box and street names like “Prince of Wales Street” and “Victoria Junction”, the Albion-era reminders of the Sliema of yonder are still ever-present.

One of Sliema’s most iconic features are its seawater baths–squarish pools which were cut into the rocks way back in Victorian times. At the time, seaside leisure towns were beginning to be all the rage back in the homelands of the British population. The physical and mental health benefits of leaving the city behind for salty sea air were recognized, and, to bring a slice of home to the

Maltese Islands, it was decided that these plunge pools, or “baths” were in order for optimal seaside bathing pleasure. Sliema’s rugged, rocky coastline makes sea access tricky. The man-made pools provided a way to cool off in style with the help of their inbuilt steps, and, since fewer people could swim back then, they were cut just deep enough to be able to stand up in the shallower end. With one’s whole body underwater, they also worked wonders for preserving a Victorian lady’s modesty, and she could emerge from the water as quickly as she went in, to be dressed and covered up in no time.

The rock pools are still intact and are linked to the sea with narrow channels which allow fresh seawater water in and out of the baths, keeping them cool and crystal clear whilst allowing sea-life to enter. Crabs, sea snails, small fish and sea urchins live in harmony in these baths, so if you plan to take a dip in the Sliema Baths, don’t forget your goggles!

For Sliema’s natives, “The Ferries” is the catch-all location referring to Sliema’s shopping district and string of cafes, which sit opposite the Valletta ferry landing site. Going to The Ferries for a coffee is a right of passage for Slimi ż i who use this time to catch up on the latest happenings. This afternoon ritual is traceable to the English art of taking tea, albeit in the form of a cappuccino. After this, it’s likely that a spot of shopping will be in order, in either of Sliema’s two malls or pedestrianised high street.

Across this mecca for fashionistas is Saint Anne’s Square, a leafy, shady inlet, perfect for stopping for a scoop of gelato. If it’s something more substantial you’re after, you’re in the right side of town for a feast of home-cooked Maltese cuisine, just a stone’s throw away in Fawwara Lane. Ta’ Kris Restaurant’s rustic à la carte menu features old-fashioned favourites which are increasingly hard to come by, cooked to perfection according to recipes passed down through generations. For a smorgasbord of homegrown Maltese flavours, a Maltese Platter is an ideal starter to share. Main dishes include rabbit and the catch of the day, but it’s the chef’s bra ġ joli that puts them on the culinary map, and the reason you’ll need to book a table in advance.

The area known as “The Exiles”, near It-Torri, which gives Tower Road its namesake, is a nickname given to the area of Sliema which was inhabited by Russian settlers in the early 1900s. Exiles’ beach and its accompanying beach bar is a popular hangout for groups of friends who flock there to chill on the rocks while the sun goes down. Live bands play cover songs every evening during the summer months, so if commercial music isn’t for you, this is the place to go to meet likeminded souls.

Sliema’s Promenade is a long pedestrian stretch which overlooks the deep blue sea from Qui-Si-Sana beach to Balluta Bay, where it merges seamlessly into the town of St Julian’s. It’s an adored exercise route for many, who take the opportunity to workout alongside excellent views of the horizon with a walk or jog along “The Front”, as it’s known informally. A solo evening power-walk along The Front to clear one’s mind has been used as a fitness and self-care method for Slimi ż i from time immemorial. They know that sometimes, a bit of blue could be just what the doctor ordered.

Balluta Bay

An iconic spot that has retained its old-world charm dominated by the spectacular Balluta Buildings, built in the 1920s. Relax in the park, take a dip or enjoy lunch at one of the restaurants that surround the gardens.

Six Top Sights

Stella Maris Church

Visit Stella Maris Church, a beautiful Neo-Gothic church built in the early 20th century. Admire its intricate stained glass windows and the serene atmosphere inside.

Typical Residential Street

Wander down the side streets, and see the architectural style of bygone eras. Admire the charming facades, traditional balconies, and ornate details of the buildings that have been left intact.

Sliema Point Battery

Discover the Sliema Point Battery, a historic fortification dating back to the late 19th century. This fort was part of Malta's coastal defense system and provides insight into the island's military past.

Independence Garden

Spend some time in Independence Garden, a serene park enjoyed by locals and visitors alike for many years. Share a bench with one of the garden’s cats.

Sliema Ferries

This area has been a bustling hub for transportation and leisure activities since the early 20th century. Take a boat ride, enjoy the cafes, or simply people-watch in this vibrant spot.

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