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BK MAGAZINE NO. 705 FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 1, 2017. www.bkmagazine.com
Andaman EXPOSURE The best beachside openings from Thailand’s west-coast paradise
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page 3 What We’ve Learned 4 cover story
Back to Phuket 4 upfront
8 escapes
Phantom of the Theater
Hot Hotels
12 avenue
18 bites
Ari’s Best Shops
Old School
That Chatuchak Market is going digital The market’s teaming up with Siam Commercial Bank to develop an app for shopping. But don’t get too ahead of yourself dreaming of shopping for all Chatuchak’s charming vintage clutter and cute locally-designed fashion while avoiding the sweaty touch of tourists in elephant pants. Currently, only 50 vendors are participating and the app will launch in November.
20 bites
26 bk now
World of Drinking
Plan Ahead
Who's in charge? Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Staff Writers Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj, Theerada Moonsiri, Wanvida Jiralertpaiboon Junior Writers Neon Boonyadhammakul, Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan, Kasidit Srivilai, Kankanok Wichiantanon Art Director Vatanya Bongkotkarn Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Senior Graphic Designer Peeraya Sirathanisa Graphic Designers Anunya Chobnitas, Wirankan Saiyasombut Video Content Manager Chanon Wongsatayanont Video Editors Tanaporn Choopanya, Pattanagorn Adirekkiat Media Designer Saranya Laowtrakul
Where to find us!
The Asia City Media Group
Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Managers Tipkritta Chiraporncharas, Orajira Sukkasem, Onwara Sittirug Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri, Amarit Jinaya Sales Associate Pichayarak Chalermchainukul Senior Project Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Branded Content Associate Sureepak Janyapat Project Coordinators Nutnicha Nuttanakorn, Peerada Chotiya Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Assistant Finance Manager Anchalee Limkhamduang Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Administrator Yaovaluck Srisermsri Accountant Manita Bangmoung
Bangkok Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower 100 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 Email: bkmagazine@asia-city.co.th
That Ladprao’s latest bar boasts Wong Kar Wai vibes Red lanterns, dim lighting and patterned tiles are no longer the preserve of Yaowarat’s new wave of hip and happening bars, thanks to Ninetails Bar & Booster way out on Ladprao. This two-story joint sits opposite Union Mall where it serves up Chinese-inspired bites, beers from B100 and nightly live music from 9pm.
That Freebird’s celebrating its first birthday with a garden party Rainy season blues, be gone! This Sunday (Sep 3), Sukhumvit Soi 47’s Australian restaurant Freebird is bringing back its semifrequent garden party seriers in honor of its anniversary. Starting from noon, the party will take the form of a laid-back barbecue with dishes like grilled salted pork served with grain mustard, fried wings with barbecue sauce, and wet brined chicken with yogurt and spice. The price for fall-you-can-eat food is B1,550 per person, or B2,500 with booze, too.
Contributors Kathy MacLeod Interns Koraporn Kanchanabudhu, Baitoey Karntimon, Siriya Suriyanon Cover Photo Chalong Bay Rum Bar Cover Design By Peeraya Sirathanisa
Asia City Media Group Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net) Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)
Singapore Asia City Publishing Pte. Ltd. Block 211 Henderson Rd. #07-02 Henderson Industrial Park Singapore 159552 Tel: 65-6323-2512 Fax: 65-6323-2779 Email: contact@asia-city.com.sg
That Bangkok is exporting another pop-up market Last year it was Artbox; this year it’s Sansiri’s Winter Market that’s set to take Singapore by storm. Taking place at Orchard Road on Sep 8-10, under the theme of “The Finest Thai,” the market will feature food from the likes of After You Durian, Jim Thompson and Greyhound Cafe, workshops and showcases from Tube Gallery, O.D.S. and Fablab, plus music from Paradise Bangkok Molam International Band. Talk is Hong Kong and Taiwan will be next. Fear not, the market will still happen here in November. That Spotify is officially available in Thailand. Finally. So, you’ve ditched your VPN and you’re now enjoying access to the streaming giant’s library of 1 million songs, punctuated only by the strangely reassuring sounds of Thai-language ads. That’s unless you’re paying for Spotify’s premium, no-ads service at B129/month, which is on par with competitor Apple Music, and compares favorably with Deezer (B155) and JOOX (B139). Our only real gripe is regular features like the Discover Weekly and Daily Mix playlists are not available yet.
BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 51 times a year, every Friday of each month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2016 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250
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BK Magazine September 1, 2017
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upfront HOT OR NOT www.niseko.ne.jp
www.columnbangkok.com
Hot: Bangkok
Not: Niseko
Monocle’s editor-in-chief took a break from singing the praises of secret Japanese mountain villages with century-old papermills recently to throw some love our way. Writing for the Financial Times, Tyler Brule called Bangkok one of the world’s most inspiring cities. And why? Because you can find Hokkaido butter in FoodLoft; because we have awesome bookstores like Kinokuniya; and because Thais are keen to adopt the “Kyoto look.” Now doesn’t that make you proud of your culture!
INTERVIEW
Hot: Si Phraya
Not: Nana
King Niks and the Army of Jenever’s hipster stranglehold on Chinatown faces a tiki invasion from the South. Tropic City rum bar has arrived on Charoenkrung’s Si Phraya with reinforcements in the form of a sake-specializing izakaya slash art gallery called Jua (set to open shortly). Let the battle of craft cocktails and expat photo exhibitions commence.
Hot: Cats
Not: Lizards
First, they came for the monitor lizards. Now, it’s the cats which have met with Lumphini Park officials’ wrath, being summarily rounded up, sterilized, and made the problem of animal adoption agencies instead. Pick up your very own Lumphini-raised furball now by contacting the Cat Lumpini Facebook group (www.fb.com/catlumpini).
Hot: Murasaki uni
Not: Bafun uni
Come on, get with the times. The little, sweet bafun uni you’re used to is about as common as an authentic Edomae sushi-ya in Phloen Chit. What you need to be eating is murasaki uni, which is creamier, lighter and so seasonal that if you don’t book your seat at Sushi Ichizu (see page 22) right this minute you’re in danger of missing it.
THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID
Wattanapume “Best” Laisuwanchai, 29, is one of the founders of visual design company Eyedropper Fill, known for installation art events like Heineken’s Behind the Star Experience and music videos for indie bands like Desktop Error. His feature-length documentary, Phantom of Illumination, which follows the story of a film projectionist forced into unemployment when the cinema he works at is marked for demolition, is now showing at SF World Cinema and House RCA. Here, he tells us about the harsh reality behind the film. What’s the film about? This documentary looks at the life of a 50-year-old movie projectionist from Surin, Sumrith “Rith” Praprakone, after the closure of Thonburi Rama, a cinema where he had been working for decades. It’s the story of someone who is basically now unemployable due to his age and skill set. What’s the meaning of the name, Phantom of Illumination? For me, “phantom” connotes ambiguity, mystery, fantasy slash horror, while “illumination” is light or enlightenment. Together they symbolize Rith’s feelings of abandonment and lack of direction; a feeling that everything in life is an illusion caused by one’s mind. What was your inspiration for the film? I’ve always wanted to make a film, but never had the chance until my final thesis when I produced a movie about my parents. I called it Passing Through the Night and it got an Orizzonti Award Nomination at the 68th Venice International Film Festival. Initially, I wanted to make a film about how my parents met and started their relationship. I’m fascinated by those old-school dates. That’s how the idea of independent
cinemas came across my mind. My dad had to wait for my mom at the cinema to flirt. Independent cinemas are full of history, and not just the places themselves—so many different generations have passed through them. Then I found out about Thonburi Rama and met Rith there. He lived inside the cinema, even though it had already shut down, and I found his life intriguing. The filmmaking process took me three years. It was a really big challenge. Does Thonburi Rama have any significant meaning to you? I can’t give you a straight yes or no to this one. Basically, I don’t have any personal history with the cinema, because I only became aware of its existence when it had shut already. But it was a significant place for its neighborhood. As a Bangkokian, I feel like it’s a part of this city’s history. It was where people came to enjoy films; where people came to connect and build relationships. What do you think about the documentary industry in Thailand? Documentaries are growing in popularity, especially in Bangkok, where more people are appreciating them as both a source of education and
entertainment. I feel like things have definitely picked up since the BBC’s Planet Earth was screened in cinemas 10 years ago. The BBC has played a big role in the way people view documentaries as something exciting. What do you hope the audience gets out of your film? People might think this film is all about standalone cinemas, when in reality it’s not. We filmed the story of a former movie projectionist at a pivotal stage of his life when he couldn’t find a new job, no matter how hard he tried. He’s in his 50s and judged by society as too old to start a new job. He doesn’t want to go home to Surin to live with his family, because he feels that will only make things harder on them, and there are no jobs where he’s from anyway. It’s a portrait of someone put under intense pressure, like so many people in modern Bangkok. Yet Rith is also something of a philosopher. He reads a lot and has experienced a lot, so has a lot of wisdom despite not going to university. I hope the film gives a new insight into the realities facing the working class in Bangkok without being overly dramatic. Neon Boonyadhammakul
by Kathy MacLeod (IG: @kathy_macleod)
BK Magazine Friday, September 1, 2017
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cover story
New in Phuke t
The hottest new openings on the jewel of the Andaman. By Kankanok Wichiantanon
Nama at Aman
Torry's Ice Cream
Cafe Del Mar Chalong Bay Rum Bar
EAT Nama at Aman
Pru
With a name meaning “raw” in Japanese, the restaurant serves an extensive list of sushi and sashimi, alongside grilled dishes. All the food is prepared by Japan-native chef Keiji Matoba, who has worked at five-star hotels like The Chedi Andermatt in the Swiss Alps. One star dish is the Kobe gyu (B2,500), a Kobe wagyu steak grilled over charcoal at your table and served with moshio mineral salt, a seaweed-infused salt that has been produced by the same method for nearly 2,500 years. Pansea Beach, Phuket, 097-632-4333. Open seasonally for lunch and dinner (Nov 1-May 15). goo.gl/WFCxjw
Pru takes its name from Pru Jumpa, the area where the resort’s own organic farm is located. Here, executive chef Jim Ophorst (who recently won the national round of San Pellegrino’s Young Chefs award) works with local producers like the neighboring goat farm and even goes foraging himself to create the likes of the eggplant selection dish, made of four kinds of eggplants cooked in five different ways—think textures of cream, mash, roast, crisp and puff—served with a sauce of five types of basil and house-made bottarga (cured fish roe). The set menu costs B3,000.
Torry's Ice Cream
Trisara, 60/1 Moo 6, Srisoonthorn Rd., Phuket, 076-310-100. Open Mon-Sat 6pm–10:30pm. www.prurestaurant.com
Founded by art school graduate and island-native Torry Wongwattanakit, the store sits in a gorgeous pink SinoPortuguese building on Soi Rommanee, where it’s pulling in both locals and tourists for its scoops inspired by Phuket’s iconic desserts like o-aew (clear jelly served with red beans and ice cream, B75), a-pong (crispy coconut crepe, B75) and bi-co-moi (glutinous sticky rice topped with coconut milk, B85). There are some 50 flavors in total, including booze-spiked options like Irish coffee (whiskey) and rum raisin (dark rum). Rommanee Soi 16, Thalang Rd., Phuket Old Town, 076-510-888. Open Tue-Sun 11am-9:30pm. www.torrysicecream.com
Esenzi The ultra-luxurious design hotel Iniala Beach House has partnered with Tim Butler of Bangkok’s Eat Me (No.23 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2016, No.7 in BK's Top Tables 2016) to open this new seafood venture. The first Butler restaurant outside of Bangkok plucks flavors from all around the world. A5 marbled wagyu beef from Shiga prefecture comes served with swordfish belly in red curry, while the Dutch Harbor king crab salad features heirloom tomatoes, basil sorbet and bloody Mary. 40/14 Moo 6, Baan Natai, Kokkloi, Takua Thung, Phang Nga, 085-7898574. Open daily Tue-Sat 6pm-11pm. www.esenzierestaurant.com
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Osha Bangkok’s Osha restaurant (originally from San Francisco) has taken hold of the dining room in Phuket Town's heritage Memory at On On Hotel to offer some creative high-end Thai dining. Amid minty and magenta decor, Osha Thai serves a list of its star dishes from Bangkok like dancing king prawns in fish sauce and tom yum goong, but you'll also find traditional Phuket dishes like moo hong (braised pork belly, B350), and nam prik goong sieb (shrimp paste with dried shrimp, B170). 19 Phang-Nga Rd., Talad Yai, Phuket, 076-634-420, Open daily 7am11pm. www.fb.com/oshathaiatonon
Mali Mali serves dishes under the tagline “traditional Phuket food.” The menu charts all the Southern hits—crabmeat curry with rice noodle, moo hong (braised pork belly, B150), nam prik goong siab (chili shrimp paste with crispy dried shrimp, B140) and kua kling (stir-fried spicy pork/beef, B160)—as well as experimenting with its own dishes like chicken curry spring rolls and pla long nam (a hotpot of deep-fried seabass or garupa with coconut curry, B420). 91/6 Chaofah Tawantok Rd., Phuket, 090-324-6351. Open daily 11am10pm. www.fb.com/maliphuket324
Osha
PLAY Chalong Bay Rum Bar Phuket's artisanal rum distillery now has its own bar and also offers cocktail workshops. Stop by for a sip of its classic cocktails (from B300), bite-sized Mediterranean tapas and a fittingly tropical vibe. Finish off with a scoop of the delicious Chalong Bay rum and raisin ice cream (B100). Launched back in 2012, Chalong Bay Rum is produced from pure Thai sugarcane juice (not molasses, like most distilleries), crafted using traditional French distillation methods. Chalong Bay Distillery, 14/2 Moo 2 Soi Palai 2, Phuket, 093-575-1119, or 082-800-4701. Open Mon-Sat 11am-10pm. www.chalongbay.com
Cafe Del Mar A pool sits surrounded by fancy sunbeds and a bar, while the lounge extends right to the sands at Thailand’s iteration of Ibiza's legendary beach club. Jazz and tropical house tunes set the scene during the day, with underground techno taking over later on. Drinks-wise there's a huge list of spirits, wines and classic cocktails for you to choose from. B1,000 entry entitles you to a single lounger and pool use. Kammala, Kathu, Phuket, 063-081-2488. Open daily 11am-2am. www. cafedelmarphuket.com
BK Magazine Friday, September 1, 2017
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cover story
Esenzi
Akyra Beach Club Phuket
Mai House
Marriott Merlin Beach
Marriott Merlin Beach The resort is huge—414 rooms huge—and with the beaches around Phuket becoming increasingly busy, here you've got your own private beach that's only accessible by hotel guests. Newbies to scuba diving can even take a three-hour introductory course without having to leave the resort. They also offer three massive swimming pools, a modest spa, muay Thai, kayaking and paddle boarding. Rates start from B3,600. 99 Muen-Ngoen Rd., Tri-Trang Beach, Patong, Phuket, 076-335-300. goo.gl/vjeMqn Jara Spa
DO Peranakan Phuket Museum Dedicated to Baba-Nyonya heritage, Peranakan Phuket Museum mirrors the look of Phuket Town’s Sino-Portuguese shop-houses in a series of kitsch but fun exhibits. There’s even a photo studio where you can dress up in Baba-Nyonya costume and have your picture taken against a faux crumbly wall. The on-site Yaya Kitchen offers local dishes, while Pinana cafe serves scones, brownies and tea. Entrance is B300. Thepkasattri Rd., Muang Thalang, Phuket, 076-313-556. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.phuketperanakanmuseum.com
Jara Spa Jara’s six villa-like spa rooms offer four different signature mixed oils and what they dub a “Thai thermal massage” (B6,500/90 minutes), which features a clay pot filled with heated Himalayan salt and incorporates elements of meditation. The five-hour Jara Local (B15,500/person) treatment includes a herbal scrub and wrap, thermal massage, stretching and walking meditation by Buddhist monks. We recommend requesting a sea-view spa room. 60/1 Moo 6, Srisoonthorn Rd., Phuket, 076-310-100. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.trisara.com/en/jara-spa
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Mai House Patong’s newest boutique hotel looks to Phuket Town’s SinoPortuguese culture to create somewhere elegant and different. Mai House Patong Hill is an alluring blend of turquoise walls, opium den-style daybeds and dangling steel lanterns. The Grand Deluxe Rooms feature bathtubs in the bedroom, or go one step further for the Grand Deluxe Jacuzzi room, which has its own outdoor Jacuzzi hidden behind a veil of tropical foliage overlooking Patong Beach. Rates start from B4,750. 5/5 Phrabarami Rd., Patong, Kathu, Phuket, 076-637-770. www. maihouse.com/patonghill
The SIS Kata This swanky stay comes at a refreshingly low price point. The name means "Stay In Style" and the resort's 124 guest rooms and two suites come in a nautical white and blue color scheme with contemporary chevron patterns throughout. You'll find six restaurants and bars on-site that serve up local dishes with international twists and take advantage of the Kata sunset over the Andaman Sea. Rates start from B2,399. 255 Kok Tanode Rd., Karon, Muang, Phuket, 076-609-555. www. thesiskata.com
Avista Hideaway The southern end of Patong Beach is currently one of the hottest places to stay on the island. This resort boasts clean lines with a luxurious tropical edge, its 150 guestrooms coming with rich local woods and natural stones. Three saltwater swimming pools are split over different levels, while food and drink ranges
STAY
from Sizzle steakhouse and Vista all-day dining to the RendezVue Rooftop cocktail and tapas bar. Rates start from B6,600. 39/9 Muen Ngern Rd., Patong, Kathu, Phuket, 076-681-681. www. avista-hideaway-phuket-patong.com
Akyra Beach Club Phuket Just a 20-minute drive from Phuket International Airport, the Andaman-facing hotel goes with a deep blue theme for its 42 rooms and 17 villas, the highlight of which is the 125-sqmeter beachfront two-bedroom villa. The decor features SinoPortuguese patterned flourishes on everything from the floor tiles to the cushions, matched with dark wooden furniture. Rates start from B2,500. 32/7 Moo 5, Kokkloi, Takua Thung, Phang Nga, 076-592-500. www. theakyra.com/phuket
2Rooms Boutique House Designed and owned by Phuket's Dhamarchitects, the two rooms are situated on the second floor of a 100-year-old twin shop-house on Soi Rommanee that was formerly an old-school coffee shop. These days, it stands out not only for its bright pink facade, but also its relatively shallow nature compared to other shop-houses in the area. The large, suite-like rooms consist of dark blue walls, a king bed and breezy balcony. Downstairs you’ll find popular dessert cafe Torry’s Ice cream (see page 6). Rates start from B3,000. Soi Rommanee, Thalang Rd., Phuket, 076 -354-335. www. fb.com/2roomsboutiquehouse
Maiton Private Island You can now stay on the Andaman Sea's largest private island, Koh Mai Ton, which sits about 9km from Phuket. Maiton Private Island operates more like a family-run Airbnb than a resort. Activities on the island include outdoor massages with a view, and diving at the underwater reef. You can also kayak, snorkel and take a boat around the island for a dolphin-sighting trip. Rates start from B2,900. 100 Moo 7, Wichi, Muang, Phuket , 085-835-3456. www. maitonprivateisland.com
BK Magazine Friday, September 1, 2017
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Makkachiva
AROUND THAILAND
Room for More Kwai Tara Riverside Villas
The whole of Thailand has been buzzing with new hotel openings this year. Here are the best so far. By BK Staff Sriwilai Sukhothai
CHIANG MAI
Azalea Village Wellness Resort Rate: starting B1,300/night Located in Chiang Dao, Chiang Mai, known for its spectacular mountain scenery, the resort comprises 21 adorably old-school cottages, including four very spacious two-bedroom suites, all designed to reflect the local way of life through natural materials and Thai handicrafts. The nightly rate includes breakfast from the on-site restaurant that focuses on traditional Northern food, using only organic ingredients sourced locally. Seasonal fruits are plucked straight from the farm here and also made available for guests throughout their stay. 168 Moo 13, Chiang Dao, Chiang Mai, 089-359-4244. www.azaleavillage.com
Villa Mahabhirom Rate: starting B12,355/night Chiang Mai's most beautiful hotel opening in a long time sits not too far from Wat U Mong (Tunnel Temple), the hipster outdoor cafe No. 39 and Baan Kang Wat Community Mall. The property is made up of beautiful antique Thai houses that are over 100 years old, many of which come with a view of the swimming pool or of Doi Suthep. Each teakwood villa consists of a bedroom suite, study area, spacious marble bathroom and open-air balcony. Two to three villas can be reserved together to form a "terrace villa" or "private pool villa" that each come with a private saltwater plunge pool and garden courtyard. 62 Moo 10, Su Thep, Muang, Chiang Mai, 053-271-200. www. villamahabhirom.com
Makkachiva Rate: starting B2,800/night Three stories of Lanna-referencing accommodation stand around a stunning, open-air courtyard. Foliage cascades from every balcony down towards a central water feature where guests congregate for breakfast each morning. Standard rooms are half the rate of the big brand competition, but come with twice the attention to detail—each has its own custom artwork created by a local artist, while genuine oriental antiques dot the common areas. The location, just outside the weekend night market zone, means the best shopping opportunities are close at hand, but you don’t need to battle tourists each time you leave the hotel. Phara Sing, Muang, Chiang Mai, 053-285-196. googl/5ML6Vz
KOH SAMUI
Khwan Beach Resort Rate: starting B4,000/night Situated on Maenam Beach, on the island’s north coast, this collection of luxury tents comes kitted out with mod-cons like
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air-conditioning despite their 19th-century expedition vibe—think four-poster king beds, oil lamps, vintage wooden chairs, leather trunks and daybeds. The location is close to the weekly walking street on Maenam Road and famous island food staples like Ko Seng. Oh, and it's adults only. 67/61 Moo 1, Maenam Beach, Surat Thani. 062-565-0796. www. khwanbeachresort.com
Baan Talay Pool Villas Rate: starting B4,300/night Perched amid coconut trees on a mountain overlooking Chaweng Noi Beach, these villas offer a real tropical hideaway. Both the one-bedroom pool villa and two-bedroom deluxe villa come with a fully-equipped kitchen and private plunge pool. 6/9 Moo 3, Chaweng Noi, 077-422-771-2. www.baantalaypoolvilla.com
Celes Beachfront Resort Rate: starting B4,125/night The hotel sits just outside Fisherman’s Village—a former French outpost lined with beautiful old wooden Chinese shop-houses. Its design complements the beautiful natural setting with lightly toned wooden buildings, high ceilings, and white walls and furniture. The standard rooms offer reasonable value for money, while the beachfront villas, with private sun loungers and an outdoor pool, run about B18,500/night. 175/3 Thaveerat-Pakdee Rd., Surat Thani, 077-900-999. www. celesresorts.com
Sensimar Rate: starting B3,900/night Take your partner for an escape at this resort where they guarantee there won’t be a single child in sight. We love the clean, oriental-luxe vibe, as well as the “adults-only" protocol, assuring a peaceful stay. Given the nightly rate of under B4,000, its hardwood floors, spacious rooms and vast, beachside infinity pool are also a notch above many places. The resort sits on Maenam Beach, 10 =km away from Samui Airport. 44/134 Moo 1, Maenam Beach, Koh Samui, Surat Thani, 077-953-035. www. sensimarsamui.com
KHAO LAK AND KRABI
La Vela Khao Lak
Rate: starting B3,800/night The heavily geometric design is the latest work by TROP: terrains and open space, whose credits include Casa de la Flora, Botanica Khao Yai and Veranda Pattaya. Along with a backdrop that will rock your Instagram feed, most rooms also come with a bath or outdoor jacuzzi, as well as a grand seven-foot bed. Other on-site facilities include Kokulo Beach Club which features all-day live
Khwan Beach Resort
DJs, Spa QaQula which comprises five treatment rooms offering massages and restorative therapies, a picture-perfect, free-form pool and natural landscaping. 98/9 Moo 5, Khuk Khak, Takuapa, Khao Lak, Phang Nga, 076-428-555. www. lavelakhaolak.com
The ShellSea
Rate: starting B5,900/night This resort links directly to the Shell Fossil Beach, known for its distinct natural formation of shell fossil plates. Only two other fossil beaches of its kind are known to exist. Sea View and Beach Front rooms also come with their own balcony. The resort's Otium Spa features six treatment rooms, as well as a fitness centre on the upper deck, with floor-to-ceiling windows for a view of the resort. 999 Moo 6, Sai Thai, Muang, Krabi, 075-819-519. www.theshellsea.com
CENTRAL THAILAND
Sriwilai Sukhothai Rate: starting B3,500/night The 54 rooms are garnished with Sukhothai-Lanna lanterns, colorful cushions contrasted with white-washed walls and fourposter beds. Touting eco-credentials, the resort uses solar panels to heat its water and a zero-chlorine system for the infinity pool. Its location is gold, too, right opposite the UNESCO-protected Sukhothai Historical Park, meaning you can begin exploring first thing in the morning. 214/4 Moo 2, Muang, Sukhothai, 055-697-445. www.sriwailaisukhothai.com
Kwai Tara Riverside Villas Rate: starting B3,500/night Kanchanaburi's latest floating paradise comprises 20 modern loft-style villas. While the Canal Access Villas give you beautiful views of the mountains, we love the spacious 80-meter Floating Villas, which bob over the water complete with their own stylish hammocks, river terrace and upper deck. It doesn't have to be just down-time, though—jungle rafting, elephant riding and kayaking are all on offer, while free rafts leave the resort at 4:30pm everyday if you fancy a tour down Kwai Noi River. 214 Moo 6, Wangkrajae, Sai Yok, 093-925-8883. www.kwaitara.com
BK Magazine Friday, September 1, 2017
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อิ่ม
ESCAPE ROUTES By Kankanok Wichiantanon
คุ้ ม
หลากสไตล์
กั บ บั ต ร เ ค ร ดิ ต JCB
ลด 15%
ลด 10%
วันนี้ – 31 ธ.ค. 2560
วันนี้ – 31 ธ.ค. 2560
เงื่อนไข • เฉพาะค่าอาหารเท่านั้น ไม่สามารถใช้ร่วมกับเซ็ตอาหาร มื้อกลางวันได้ • ไม่สามารถใช้ร่วมกับรายการส่งเสริมการขายอื่นได้
เงื่อนไข • เฉพาะค่าอาหารเท่านั้น • เฉพาะยอดการใช้บัตรขั้นต่ำา500บาทขึ้นไป • ไม่สามารถใช้ร่วมกับรายการส่งเสริมการขายอื่นได้
เพียงจ่าย ด้วยบัตรเครดิต A Chef's Tour
Chef’s Selection
เพียงจ่าย ด้วยบัตรเครดิต
The lazy glutton in us is thrilled to hear that A Chef’s Tour (achefstour.com) has just launched in Chiang Mai, offering chef and foodie approved taste treks of the city. They’ll transport you by truck to seven hotspots beloved of locals to taste 17 dishes, such as a smoky bowl of nam ngiaw noodle soup and Northern-style larb. Two experienced guides will provide your group of no more than 10 people with running commentary on the history of each dish. Offered daily, the tour kicks off at 5pm and takes about four hours at a cost of B1,635/person (food included). Just remember to skip lunch.
ลด 10%
SINGAPORE
Cool Capsule Yotel is a techy, London-born chain that’s been described as the missing link between Airbnb and old-school hotels. The brand takes cues from Japanese capsule accommodation and firstclass airline travel to squeeze luxury hotel living into the most Yotel compact of spaces. While most of its branches are found within airports—like Amsterdam Schiphol and the Charles de Gaulle in Paris—Yotel’s Southeast Asian debut is about to land on Singapore’s shopping hub of Orchard Street. The 610 rooms (called “cabins”) are designed to “come with everything you need and nothing you don’t.” The premium option (from B4,390) comes with an adjustable SmartBed, rejuvenating rain showers, smart TV, plentiful power sockets—and even mood lighting. The hotel also offers a club lounge, gym, restaurant and bar, co-working space and 20-meter pool. www.yotel.com/en/hotels/yotel-singapore
วันนี้ – 31 ต.ค. 2560
วันนี้ – 31 ธ.ค. 2560
เงื่อนไข • เฉพาะค่าอาหารเท่านั้น • เฉพาะยอดการใช้บัตรขั้นต่ำา 600บาทขึ้นไป • ยกเว้นสาขาสุขุมวิท 31 • ไม่สามารถใช้ร่วมกับรายการส่งเสริมการขายอื่นได้
เงื่อนไข • เฉพาะเมนูคิวริมากิและเมนูไอศกรีมเท่านั้น • ไม่สามารถใช้ร่วมกับรายการส่งเสริมการขายอื่นได้
เพียงจ่าย ด้วยบัตรเครดิต
Jet Set
It’s The Ship (itstheship.com) is a musical festival like no other—it happens on a boat. Setting sail from Singapore to Phuket this Nov 17 and returning on Nov 20, the four-day floating party features artists like Yellow Claw, Krewella, Keith Ape and Thaitanium (more to be announced). The It's The Ship five-star ship even features waterslides, a bowling alley, casino, mini golf and up to 35 restaurants/bars. Cabins are plush affairs with space for two people rising to a six-person duplex penthouse with its own sundeck and whirlpool. None of it’s cheap. The smallest inside cabins (meaning no windows) cost around B66,000, including all meals and access to events both on and off the boat. That’s based on two people sharing.
วันนี้ – 30 พ.ย. 2560
เงื่อนไข • เฉพาะค่าอาหารเท่านั้น • เฉพาะยอดการใช้บัตรขั้นต่ำา 1,000 บาทขึ้นไป • ไม่สามารถใช้ร่วมกับรายการส่งเสริมการขายอื่นได้
เงื่อนไข • เฉพาะค่าอาหารเท่านั้น • เฉพาะยอดการใช้บัตรขั้นต่ำา 1,500 บาทขึ้นไป • ไม่สามารถใช้ร่วมกับรายการส่งเสริมการขายอื่นได้
เพียงจ่าย ด้วยบัตรเครดิต
เพียงจ่าย ด้วยบัตรเครดิต
รับฟรี
ลดสูงสุด
20%
ไก่ทอด ไมจิโกะ
วันนี้ – 30 พ.ย. 2560 เพียงจ่าย ด้วยบัตรเครดิต
วันนี้ – 30 พ.ย. 2560 Pantone® 306 C
เงื่อนไข • เฉพาะยอดการใช้บัตรขั้นต่ำา 700 บาทขึ้นไป • ไม่สามารถใช้ร่วมกับรายการส่งเสริมการขายอื่นได้
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ลด 10%
วันนี้ – 30 พ.ย. 2560
www.essentialsingapore.com
Rock the Boat
เพียงจ่าย ด้วยบัตรเครดิต
ลด 10%
TOUR
Those with massive bank accounts, take note. The ultra-luxurious hotel brand Aman (aman.com) is teaming up with bespoke travel organizer Remote Lands to offer a 21day around-the-world private jet tour. Aman Private Jet Expeditions sees 18 guests travel to nine countries aboard what was originally a 126-passenger-capacity Airbus that’s been refitted with private rooms and showers. The first one takes off from Tokyo on Apr 15, 2018, and stops by Italy, Greece, Montenegro, Bhutan, Vietnam, India, Thailand and China before touching back down on May 6. You’ll get to enjoy the cherry blossoms in Japan, trekking in the Himalayas and floating down Venice’s Grand Canal, to name just a few highlights, all while staying at Aman’s swanky resorts and hotels at each destination. The price? A mere B3.8 million.
ลด 50%
Pantone® 2572 C
Pantone® 2935 C
Pantone® 221 C
Pantone® Blue 072 C
Pantone® 3125 C
เพียงจ่าย บัตรเครดิต Pantone® 382 C
Pantone® 123 C
เงื่อนไข • รับส่วนลด 10% เมื่อซื้ออาหารกล่อง 2 กล่อง • รับส่วนลด 20% เมื่อซื้ออาหารกล่อง 3 กล่อง • ไม่สามารถใช้ร่วมกับรายการส่งเสริมการขายอื่นได้ Pantone® 3262 C
Pantone® 214 C
Pantone® 267 C
Pantone® 341 C
Pantone® 1797 C
Pantone® 206 C
Pantone® 3285 C
Pantone® 179 C
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avenue FASHION
Creature Comforts Taking up a prime spot in Charoenkrung’s new Warehouse 30, Lonely Two Legged Creature might just be the affordable, minimal local label that’ll wean you off Uniqlo and Muji. The fashion project of Warehouse 30’s mastermind, Duangrit Bunnag, sees the floppy haired architect extraordinaire invest in the talents of Amphai Kerdhnongmon, a young creative from Loei province. Until catching the eye of Duangrit she was selling her work at Platinum mall, Bangkok’s epicenter of bulk-buy discount fashion. Both women’s and men’s lines play with tropical full-print looks on shirts (B,1250-1,850) and pants (B1,450), but for the most part the designs are sharp and understated—dresses, shirts, pants and tees in neutral tones. Warehouse 30, Charoenkrung Soi 30. www.fb.com/lonelytwoleggedcreature
COSMETICS
GYM
SHOPPING
Food Science
Active Account
Mellow Yellow
It’s no longer just about science-y looking, shiny lotions at Shiseido. The Japanese skincare giant just came out with a new, pared-down line called Waso. Aimed at soft-skinned, younger buyers (but not so young they can’t afford it), Waso’s tasteful white lids and pastel colored bottles hide natural ingredients like honey, carrot and loquat leaf. It’s all inspired by Japan’s traditional washoku cooking philosophy, apparently. The minimalist products start at B1,100 for a 150ml bottle of Quick Gentle cleanser. Their green bottle of Quick Matte Oil-Free Moisturizer (B1,500 for 75ml) is perfect for humid Bangkok. Available at department stores citywide. Try G/F, Silom Complex, Silom Rd., 02-233-0015. BTS Sala Daeng
Good news if you thought Siam Discovery’s Virgin Active was getting way too crowded. The fitness megachain just set up its latest branch on the leafy Wireless Road, where it provides the embassies, office buildings and swanky apartments with all the latest fitness crazes. Group classes like Les Miles BodyPump, Pilates Reform and Sh’bam sit alongside the H.E.A.T zone (for HIIT training). It’s only a five minute walk away from BTS Phloen Chit, and membership stays the same as other branches at B2,900 a month. Word is they’ll be expanding to Chiang Mai soon, too. 208 Wireless Road, 02-017-9711. BTS Phloen Chit. www.virginactive.co.th
Following the wave of pink that took over Siam when places like Matchbox and Daddy opened, it’s now time for a wave of yellow. At Fat Kids Store, the owners of Hungry Bear pancake shop at Central Ladphrao present multilabel fashion from Insta-famous Thai designers in an all-yellow space. Expect casualwear and hipster-y accessories from the likes of tropical print-loving label Chamniii, minimal-slash-girly casualwear brandPapers and master of linenwear Ruthless Studio, as well as lifestyle accessories such as vinyl players from Gadhouse (B5,900), phone cases and notebooks. You can also bank on affordable prices—everything costs from B200-B3,000. Check back soon for a chocolate cafe corner. Siam Square Soi 5, 089-134-4466. Open daily 12pm-9pm. www.fb.com/fatkidsstore
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Museum of Everything Jinglebell
SHOPPING
Boutique Ari The stores turning Ari from a cafe-hopper's dream into one of Bangkok's hottest shopping destinations. By Kasidit Srivilai Flower in Hand by P.Weary
Chuan Pisamai Cafe and Museum of Everything Vintage Shop Jinglebell Girly Victorian style meets coffee shop culture in this charming boutique packed with vintage-style accessories, swimwear and wedding dresses under the Chuanpiasami Bride label. Grab its cute straw bucket bag at B2,900 or flower embroidered swimsuit at B1,800. At the cafe, order up a plate of waffles (B228), topped with fresh berries and honey, or go with the blueberry cheese pie (B88) and Oreo Nutella shake (B148).
Pang Aurapraphan, brand director of Vick’s Weekend and Vickteerut, sells retro styles from every era, ranging from ‘70s daywear to luxe jewelry to handmade accessories. Along with brand name stuff from Chanel (classic tweed jacket for B100,000, anyone?), you’ll also find more affordable vintage loafers, bags and high heels. The store doesn’t just limit itself to shopping, either. Taking over the space of Spoon & Straw, it’s kept up parts of the menu, like the afternoon tea Magic Moon Cake Set (B550), served with English breakfast tea.
Ari Samphan Soi 3, 095-554-0638. Open TueSun 11am-8pm
18/2 Ari Soi 2, 090 -263-6925. Open daily 9am-7pm
Flower in Hand by P. Weary
The Decorum
Stock up on cute floral bouquets (B450/ small) and gift boxes filled with flowers and other goodies (B2,000) at the new, bigger-than-ever branch of Flower in Hand by P. Weary. Pinks and delicate meadow wildflowers are the look of choice at this on-trend little florist that takes more than a hint of influence from coffee-shop culture. That means you can also drop by for an excellent cup of hipster-approved slowdrip (just B40), or make use of the workshop facilities—now twice the size for more guests.
This store has become the Bangkok go-to for guys after that perfect, Pinterest-worthy collar roll on their shirts. But owner Sirapol Ridhiprasart (follow him on Instagram @master_keynes for a lesson in classic menswear) doesn’t just offer Japanese shirtmaker Kamakura’s 100-percent cotton and linen shirts (all B2,950-B3,250) anymore; he’s also turning the store into a hub of sartorial events and popups. Latest in his roster has been Singapore’s L.C. Via tailor, as well as Japan’s maker of pleated trousers extraordinaire, Igarashi Trousers. He
1/F, Royal Park Condo 3, Ari Soi 2. Open daily 9am-7pm. www.fb.com/flowerinhandbyp
The Decorum
even secured Huntsman Savile Row—the pedigreed London tailor making waves for its looks on Colin Firth in the film Kingsman. And if you’re in need of a new suit, he’s also launching his own bespoke tailor, The Decorum. Ari Samphan Soi 5, 086-533-5255. Open daily 12:30pm-8pm
Tokyobike Taking over the space that used to be Vick's Weekend, the Tokyo-born bicyle seller has moved and set up an even more charming Ari store. The lightweight bikes put a precedence on comfort over speed. Head on down to the new store to test ride four models, starting from the Bisou (B23,800) up to the Single Speed (B24,300). After perusing the bikes, you can kick back at the cozy cafe inside, Laliart Coffee, which serves up espresso coffee (from B60) made with beans from Thailand’s North, as well as homemade ice cream and patisseries like frangipani berry tart (B70) and apple pie with vanilla sauce (B80). They also stock a range of coffee-making products.
Tokyobike
20 Ari Soi 2, 02-117-1016. Open daily 11am-7pm
Chuan Pisamai Cafe and Vintage Shop
FASHION This Season's Latest Bags
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MINELLI, B14,500
LONGCHAMP, B44,500
COCCINELLE, B18,900
FURLA, B8,900
M/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd.
G/F, EmQuartier, Sukhumvit Rd.
M/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd.
G/F, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd.
ROGER VIVIER, B72,000
M/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd.
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bites & blends RESTAURANT
Baan Baan It may look a little rough around the edges, but this Thai restaurant situated beneath an antique wooden house comes brimming with exciting flavors. Baannual paints a quaint picture of life in Samsen, offering only two tables set amid decorative flower arrangements, rattan birdcages, and a soundtrack that mixes old Thai songs of the '70s and '80s with the crowing of nearby roosters. Sittisak Sakornsin, a freelance food stylist who’s worked for Elle and Wallpaper*, and his sister Yuwarat, a private English tutor, seek out their ingredients at Trok Mor Market each morning to whip up home-style family recipes. The simple menu spotlights the likes of moo pad kapi (B100), stir-fried pork neck with shrimp paste from Chumporn, and yum dokkajorn (B150), a Thaistyle cowslip creeper salad with minced pork and shrimp that's made with boiled coconut cream for a taste reminiscent of yum tua phlu (wing bean salad). Other recommendations include goong pad mun goong (prawns with shrimp head fat, B250) and puu jaa (deep-fried minced pork and crab meat served with sweet plum sauce, B80/ piece). Parking is available at the nearby Nuovo City Hotel. 372 Samsen Soi 6, 081-889-7403. Open Tue-Fri 12-10pm; Sat-Sun 4-10pm
EVENT
RESTAURANT
CAFE
All Hands on Deck
Musical Chairs
Moon Landing
This Sep 16, two acclaimed Thailand-based chefs team up for a four-hands dinner. Over an eight-course menu, French chef Arnaud Dunand-Sauthier of Lord Jim’s welcomes Italian chef Alessandro Frau of Phuket’s swanky Italian restaurant Acqua. They’ll take it turns to plate up dishes like Frau’s wood-fired roasted suckling pig with saffron, violette potatoes and broad beans, and Dunand-Sauthier’s smoked Hamachi with cucumber, plum and blue cheese. It’s priced at B8,500 per head, including wine pairing. Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 48 Oriental Avenue, Charoenkrung Rd., 02-659-9000. Open daily 7-10:30pm; MonFri 12-2:30pm; Sat 11:30am-2:30pm; Sun 11am-2:30pm
Krua Banleng, the Phaya Thai restaurant belonging to the family of classical music legend Luang Pradit Phairoh, has brought its Thai comfort food to Sathorn. Here, Asdavuth “Aey” Sagarik, Luang's great grandson, gives nods to his family history with traditional Thai musical instruments littered about the cozy twostory house. The recipes make the most of well-sourced ingredients, such as dried chilies from Bang Chang sub-district in Samut Songkram, and house-made curry pastes. Try them in familiar fare like pad Thai goong sod (stir-fried rice noodles with shrimp, B280), gaeng puu sen mee (yellow curry with crab meat, B390) and moo ped sood khun yar (stir-fried pork with turnip pickles and young green peppercorns, B160). 163/2 Narathiwas Rajanagarindra Soi 5, 063-184-7928. Open 11am-10pm. BTS Chong Nonsi
Known for supplying its hearty soups to grocery stores around Bangkok, Moon Taste has now unveiled a spot at Charoenkrung's new art and shopping complex, Warehouse 30. At The Fox and the Moon, sister-brother duo Pimlada “Pear” and Aungkul “Porn” Chaipreechawit ladle up eight rotating soups a day, and also serve paninis and desserts. Old classics like the clam and smoked bacon soup (B180) and mushroom soup (B180) are spruced up with improved ingredients, while there are also all-new options like the Moon Soup (B200), which sees raw egg yolk served in a mild black squid ink broth along with crab meat. Paninis include the Letter B (B200), crispy sourdough bread smeared with black cherry jam and stuffed with bacon and sliced apple. Warehouse 30, Chareonkrung Soi 30, 098-020-3007. Open daily 11am-9pm
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Chic doesn’t come overnight, it takes practice... Learn French or French Fashion Design at Alliance Française Bangkok! Next session: French courses: from October 7th onwards Fashion courses: from September 28th onwards Register now!
Early Bird offer:
Register before September 2nd and get a FREE AF Tote Bag with this coupon! 02 670 4211 / 31
info.bangkok@afthailande.org
arts@afthailande.org BK Magazine Friday, September 1, 2017
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BREAKING NEW GROUND
Condominiums for Millennials by METRIS The fast-paced lifestyles of Bangkok’s rising generation of professionals and ambitious millennials requires living spaces that are just as dynamic and flexible. No two districts in Bangkok are the same. Some are celebrated for their small sois with crafty stores, thumping clubs atop towering skyscrapers or weekend markets in vast parks— and modern Bangkokians want them all. That’s why Major Development is unveiling its new METRIS line of condominiums in some of Bangkok’s hottest up-and-coming neighborhoods—Rama9-Ramkumhang, Pattankarn and Ladprao. Be it slow-life hipsters and chill cafes or Bangkok’s aspiring young-and-beautiful hunting edgy mixology, these new properties open the doors to a life lived however you want. Each property is pet friendly, and includes a range of high-end amenities and features, including shuttle services, eco-friendly motion sensory lighting in the shared corridors, and premium Hafele sanitary wear (a famous German brand whose products come with a 5-year warranty). All boast an impressive range of premium facilities, so there’s enough inside to help balance your routine—whether it’s a hangover-busting workout or grinding out the details on a big proposal.
METRIS RAMA 9-RAMKUMHANG Retwist Your Hybrid Lifestyle A recent rise in art spaces and co-working hubs has made Rama9-Ramkumhang a sanctuary for young professionals and aspiring creatives that want easy access to the city’s swanky nightlife centers without having to suffer through living in them 24-hours a day. METRIS Rama9-Ramkumhang is designed to provide just that. The 33-storey high-rise offers an abundance of commuting choices for young professionals, and is every bit the contemporary luxury residence that millennials in the big city crave. With 570 units, the property is designed to offer lifestyle flexibility in myriad ways. With a prime location just 300m from the future Orange Line MRT station and 10 minutes away from Thonglor, there are myriad lifestyle centres in all directions, such as 24-hour Foodland, The Mall Ramkhamhaeng and The Nine Shopping Center. Plush green spaces act as tranquil sanctuaries after long business trips or stressful days in the office. The project also features three floors worth of facilities, which includes its Dynamic Fitness Center—good for both light cardo, via treadmill or stationary bike, or more intense workouts in the built-in Muay Thai ring.
Rooftop
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ADVERTORIAL
METRIS PATTANAKARN Reconnect Inspiration for Passion
As nice as it is to gorge on endless amounts of international cuisine and hop around Bangkok’s buzzing shopping centers, the intensity of city life can drain even the most energetic urbanites. But regular escapes to Thailand’s tranquil beaches and getaway spots can patch that right up. METRIS Pattanakarn provides this middle ground. The 29-storey building is a quick train ride to the heart of Bangkok and its lifestyle hubs, and also sits just 100m from the Ramindra – At Narong Expressway, with prime access to the city’s outbound thoroughfares to Chonburi and Pattaya. Reached your fill of trend-setter wannabes and food snobs? One press of the pedal is all it takes to escape city life for a weekend getaway. Well-designed green spaces and shared facilities make METRIS Pattanakarn an ideal choice for people yearning for balanced lifestyles with access to a range of indoor and outdoor facilities, including a Dynamic Fitness Center, Pet Zone, Co-Working Space, Half-Basketball Court, Jogging Track and Outdoor Barbecue Area. It’s also just 10 minutes away from Thonglor, and a quick drive from local community mall London Street and Tesco Lotus. Overall Facilities
METRIS LADPRAO
Recreate Your Own Signature Ladprao has been one of Bangkok’s up-and-coming neighborhoods for a while. Its abundance of vinyl record stores, personalized bicycle shops, organic markets and trendy restaurants make the area feel like Ari did years ago. But with quick links to Bangkok’s most important zones, it’s still fit for the city’s fast-paced first-jobbers and nightlife hounds. Ladprao is tailored for people who want to create their own signature lifestyle—removed from what’s on-trend or at the moment. Whether it’s eating at local restaurants, drinking in quaint haunts, shopping at Jatujak Market or cruising premium boutiques at Central Ladprao, the upcoming METRIS Ladprao is designed to help residents realize their lifestyle vision, even if it changes day-by-day.
1 bedroom
With 29 storeys and 193 units, METRIS Ladprao is exclusive, modern and chic. The property sits just 250m from the Phahol Yothin MRT station, just one station away from Chatuchak Weekend Market, and is a simple 5-minute journey from Central Ladprao. Its interiors are characterized by playful modern design elements and quirky décor—all in a timeless and international style. The property features an Automatic Parking facility, Indoor and Outdoor Co-Working Spaces, a Pet Zone and serene Sky Garden to help maximize lifestyle options.
STARTS 2.8 MB* PRESALE 7-10 SEP 1FL., FASHION HALL, SIAM PARAGON
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bites 5 Must-try New Dishes in Bangkok
One Ounce at Chang chui
RESTAURANTS
Hotel Staples
HOPELAND The dish: Beef brisket bao 72 Courtyard’s new Korean joint’s beef brisket bao (B280) gets the flavor combination just right. Coming on a steamed bun that’s soft but firm, the tender beef is slathered in a pungent kimchi mayo with pickled daikon radish to cut through the grease.
Head to Bangkok’s dying breed of old-school three-star hotels for stuck-in-time flavors at some of our favorite late-night restaurants. By Neon Boonyadhammakul
72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-392-6922. Open daily 5pm-2am
Ah Yat Abalone
THE FOX AND THE MOON The dish: The Moon Soup At The Fox and the Moon (see page 10), the sibling owners offer eight rotating soups a day, but it’s this new creation that shines brightest. The Moon Soup (B200) sees raw egg yolk served in a mild black squid ink soup along with crab meat—a delicately textured combination you’re unlikely to find anywhere else. Warehouse 30, Charoenkrung Soi 30, 084020-3007. Open daily 11am-9pm
Green House
Green House The hotel: Landmark Open since: 1997 The congee itself is a landmark at the affectionately known “Joke Landmark” restaurant. Its combination of clear fishbone broth and high-quality jasmine rice is boiled for three hours. Hong Kong chef Mak Kin Fai has been behind the stoves for over 25 years. Choose from toppings that include fish, prawns, marinated pork and even scallops, with a bowl starting at B220. If that doesn’t sound satisfying enough, the restaurant also serves a fancy congee bowl topped with scallops, fresh prawns, abalone, entrail and special selected shiitake starting at B490. Don’t miss the other Hong Kong staples like fried Hokkien noodles (B220) and clay pot baked rice with abalone (B580). 138 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-254-0404. Open daily 24 hours. BTS Nana
Ruenton The hotel: Montien Open since: 1977 For 40 years, Ruenton’s khao man gai (Hainanese chicken rice) and raad na “Jakkrapad” (“Emperor’s” rice noodles in gravy) have been made to the same recipe. The rice is neither overcooked nor oily, and goes perfectly with the tender texture of the boiled chicken, served in big chunks separate from the rice (B280). The raad na comes in a big plate of rice noodles topped with plenty of prawns, squid and crabmeat befitting the B380 price tag. Our advice: stick to these two. While the crispy fried mussels (B190) and rare kanhom pak gaad goong (sauteed turnip cake with shrimps, chives and egg, B190) come recommended by others, we find the former not crispy enough and the latter too oily. 54 Surawongse Rd, 02-233-7060. Open daily 24 hours
Florida Hotel Restaurant The hotel: Florida Hotel Open since: 1968 Located in the wonderfully retro, slightly haunted-looking Florida Hotel, this restaurant’s Hainanese cook worked for King Rama V. And it’s obvious that this tired old eatery has seen better days. But Florida’s former glories live on in its Thai interpretations of Western staples.
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Malai Coffee House
Even its bread (B35) is like a burger bun bread crossed with salapao: soft, sticky and slightly sweet, a kind of fusion brioche. The barbecue spare ribs (B235), too, have a distinctly Asian taste. Fall-off-the-bone tender, the meaty flavor shines through the tangy sauce. Most impressive though are Thai-Chinese staples like the bowl of noodles (B110, comforting and with fragrant notes of cilantro root) and the delicious nuea pad nammun hoy (beef in oyster sauce, B175). 43 Phaya Thai Rd., 02-247-0991. Open daily 7am-11:30pm
Malai Coffee House The hotel: Malaysia Hotel Open since: 1967 The loss of Sukhumvit’s glorious old Rex Hotel was the gain of Sathorn’s Malaysia Hotel when the kitchen team relocated here, along with their after-party favorite, khao tom (B20). Make sure you also try the nam liab moo sub (stir-fried pili nut with minced pork, B110), yam pu dong (pickled crab spicy salad, B260), ped palo (five-spice duck, B130) and stir-fried kale with moo krob (crispy pork belly, B150). While Malaysia’s recent renovation has knocked some of the charm off the hotel’s exterior, the restaurant’s stuck-in-time blend of granite and orange-lacquered wood remains blissfully unchanged. 54 Soi Ngam Duplee, Rama 4 Rd., 02-679-7127. Open daily 24 hours
Ah Yat Abalone Forum
KAPRAO KHUN PHOR The dish: Kaprao hoy shell This Silom restaurant serves more varieties of pad kaprao than you could dream of, utilizing premium ingredients like kurobuta pork and dry-aged beef. But it’s the fresh seafood that steals our attention—try the shellfish (B179) or Suratthani oysters (B159) options. As for the recipe, they claim to only use young holy basil leaves and a mix of Thai bird’s eye and prik jinda daeng chilies for an authentically fiery flavor. Top it off with an egg for B10. 30 Silom Soi 20, 065-509-9693. Open MonFri 11am-8pm.
ONE OUNCE AT CHANG CHUI The dish: The Dirty Bird This restaurant is arguably the best reason to make the trek to Chang Chui. The Dirty Bird (B180) is a clear standout: fried deboned chicken with ground peanuts, sweet soy sauce with a pinch of sliced lemon. It’s juicy, crunchy and bursting with herbal goodness when you order the suggested drink pairing of the E-sarn Classic (B120), a lime juice-based concoction that features lemongrass, kaffir leaves and galangal. Chang Chui, 460/8 Sirindhorn Rd., 02-1166076. Open Tue-Sun 11am-9pm
The hotel: Mae Nam Hotel Open since: 2004 Founding chef Yeung Koon-Yat, dubbed the “King of Abalone” for his once-Michelin-starred Forum Restaurant in Hong Kong, still provides Bangkok with some of its best Cantonese cuisine. Sets range from B1,880 for five dishes including abalone, way up to B14,800 with Peking duck and lobster, but you can have a lot of fun with its a la carte offerings, too. We love its barbecue in particular, especially the crisp roasted pork belly (B300)—the price and portion might shock you, but its taste will blow you away.
KRUA BANLENG The dish: Mango and passion fruit toast Krua Banleng’s (see page 10) mango and passion fruit toast (B165) lets the quality ingredients do the talking. The buttery brioche (starring real French butter) comes with a deliciously tangy mango passion fruit jelly and coconut ice cream. Decadent yet refreshing at the same time.
2/F, Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside, Charoenkrung Rd.,02-2917781-2. Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm
163/2 Narathiwas Rajanagarindra Soi 5, 063184-7928. Open Mon-Sat 11am-9pm. BTS Chong Nonsi
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blends
BARS
Globe Trotting
La Dotta
Around the world in eight Bangkok bars. By Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj Dim Dim
ASIA
Dim Dim Where: Beijing The decor: The candle-lit space exudes oriental cool through vintage Chinese tea boxes, rows of waving lucky cats and splashes of red. A slender outside counter seats just four, while inside is a mix of bar stools and cozier red leather corner-fitted couches. The drinks: Expect plenty of infused spirits and Chinese twists in the likes of the Oolong Tea & Orange Sour (B280), a take on the whiskey sour made with oolong tea and orange peel-infused Wild Turkey 81 bourbon. 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-085-2788. Open Mon-Sat 6:30pm-1:30am
FooJohn Where: Hong Kong The decor: Step inside this old shop-house and you're transported to a retro Hong Kong diner like something out of In the Mood for Love—think warm lighting, carefully positioned mirrors and vintage mosaic tiles. Downstairs you'll find a hip bistro serving cold cuts and crepes alongside wine. The drinks: Downstairs is all about pocket-friendly French table wine (starting from B140 per glass), while upstairs sits a hushtoned cocktail bar, where French spirits are spotlighted in classic cocktails based on The Savoy Cocktail Book (first published back in 1930). Try Le Bijous (B360), a mix of gin, Chartreuse and sweet vermouth. 831 Charoen Krung Soi 31, 085-527-3511. Open Wed-Sat 7pm-midnight
Orihara Shoten Where: Tokyo The decor: With its wall-to-wall sake selection, cozy blond wood decor and decorative barrels, Orihara Shoten looks like something straight out of Japan. Shattering this illusion somewhat are the glass windows that look out across the road to Ekkamai Beer House. The drinks: The bar is a collaboration between Japanese sake exporters Orihara and local booze distributors BB&B, so you can rest assured this is the good stuff with over 100 bottle selections of both chilled and hot sake to choose from. Prices start from as
little as B180 per glass. One solid entry point is the Yuki no Bosha Yamahai Junmai (B240/90ml), known for its smoky taste similar to whiskey. Park Lane, Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekkamai), 02-382-0131. Open Tue-Thu 5pm-midnight; Sun 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am
EUROPE
La Dotta Where: Italy The decor: Like an airy ‘50s diner with La Dolce Vita edge and an added splash of aquamarine intensity. Head up the eye-popping cast iron staircase to the mezzanine, where you’ll find a retro bar lit by smoky orbs on cast iron poles and neon signs. The drinks: Don’t expect the spirit-forward creations of sister Italian restaurants Vesper and Il Fumo. Here it’s about fresh and light drinks. Try the Passione Negroni (B340): coffee-infused gin, classic vermouth and Campari, topped with lemon foam and served with fresh passion fruit juice to even things out. 161/6 Thonglor Soi 9, 02-392-8688. Open Tue-Sun 11am-2:30pm, 5:3011pm
Brasserie Cordonnier Where: France The decor: What looks strictly conventional from the outside—royal blue roll-out awning, wicker chairs and privet hedges—feels friendly and welcoming inside thanks to warm, dim lighting and comfy seating nooks. The name, Cordonnier, means cobbler in French, hence the shoemaking equipment scattered about the place. The drinks: Cocktails take inspiration from French art, fashion and music. Love From Monet (B350) elevates the classic Boulevardier (rye whiskey, sweet vermouth, Campari) with a twist of Cynar (artichoke liquor), paying homage to the Impressionist painter by letting you paint the rim of your glass with a lemon-thyme paste. 33/30 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 094-970-8599. Open daily 6pm-midnight
THE AMERICAS
Havana Social Where: Cuba The decor: This secret bar (that everyone now knows of) offers a
Pakalolo
portal to pre-revolution Cuba. The finely-concocted story goes that Havana Social was once a hip hangout back in the Cuban capital's 1940s heyday, before falling into ruin after Fidel Castro seized power. Find the telephone booth labeled "Telefono," then punch in a password which should be given to you by one of the bouncers. The drinks: Rum, and lots of it. The cocktail list is split into two sections: classic and experimental, dubbed Pre- and Post-Revolution, courtesy of Joseph Boroski. Our favorite, Between Two Sheets (B300), features Bacardi Black, Hennessy VS, Grand Marnier, lime and pomegranate grenadine. Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-061-5344. Open daily 6pm-2am
Pakalolo Where: Hawaii The decor: Pakalolo takes its Hawaiian theme, adds a dose of the Florida Keys and turns it into something fun and fresh. There's a geometric bamboo ceiling courtesy of the guy who did Wonderfruit's stage, as well as some artfully flamboyant banana-leaf wallpaper. It all says "cocktail hour at the coconut lodge" in a kitsch, wink-wink kind of way. The drinks: Tiki and tropical. Order the Lilia (B280) for a hit of elderflower and thyme that goes right up your nose, along with pear vodka, gin and pink guava juice to make the whole thing go down easily. Ari Soi 4, 02-075-0939. Open daily 5pm-midnight
Track 17 Where: Chicago The decor: A bar decked out in a vintage wood-paneled railway carriage theme, the space plays up its 1920s Orient-Express vibe with a narrow corridor. An amazing mixing bar sits at the back, surrounded by trunks, frames, globes and maps to set the mood. The drinks: Each cocktail menu is derived from a different destination. The one right now takes on the spirit of Chicago (last time it was Mumbai) with four cocktails priced at B370 each. The Green Street Smoke takes inspiration from a well-known barbecue place for its smoky blend of bacon-infused Buffalo Trace bourbon, Averna Amaro liqueur, dark corn syrup and smoked spiced bitters. 1/F, The Commons, 355 Thonglor Soi 17, 02-101-4525. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-1am
NEWS Add these new cocktails onto your Sathorn barhopping route Since day dot, Bunker has championed itself as a bar as well as a restaurant. Now, they’re driving the point home with a new head barkeep, Wareewan “Oil” Yodkamol. Oil used to pour the vanilla fizzes over at Freebird, but now hopes to lure you away from Vogue Lounge’s happy hour and into Bunker’s cool, concrete embrace with concoctions like the Cool Melon (B300)—a nicely balanced combination of Dassai 50 sake, dry vermouth, Midori melon liqueur and aloe vera. She also has a habit of excelling in cocktail competitions, hav-
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ing reached the finals of Thailand’s Diageo World Class competition in 2013, ‘14 and ‘15. She’s not the only change over at Bunker, either. The space added a new four-course menu recently that’s all about Thai produce sourced from the market that day—and it only costs B1,200. 118/2 Sathorn Soi 12, 092-563-9991, 02-234-7749. Open Sun-Wed 5:30pm-1am; Thu-Sat 5:30pm-2am
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bites
OPEN DOOR
Sushi Ichizu
This omakase restaurant spotlights a young chef with Michelin-star schooling.
The buzz: Occupying an imposing Japanese house on Petchaburi Road, Sushi Ichizu highlights fresh produce from Tsukiji Market and the delicate knife-work of Toda Riku, former sous chef at Tokyo's one-Michelin-starred Sushi Sugita. Here, there are only 16 seats on offer a day and reservations open up two months ahead of time. The decor: Minimalist to a tee, starting from the facade of slatted wood that hides a minute Zen garden with fountain. The dining room itself is about as streamlined as it gets: a perfect picture of light-toned wood with a U-shaped counter that seats just eight. The food: Though only 26, Japan-native Riku already boasts 12 years in the Edo-style sushi game, learning all about
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salt-and-vinegar curing, searing and smoking, and marinating to draw out the finest flavors of each fish. His 16-course omakase dinner will set you back B8,000 and might include such delicacies as an appetizer of steamed abalone with thick abalone liver dipping sauce, and perfectly crafted bites featuring four-day-marinated kohada (gizzard shad), katsugo (small tai fish) cured in kombu (kelp) and Higashi Sawa’s seriously in-demand uni (sea urchin) from Hokkaido. Another intricate specialty is the char-grilled kekani (haircrab) mixed with rice, served with uni and ikura (fish roe) plus a side of asari (littleneck clam) soup. Dessert is no less handcrafted, with Riku whipping up fresh warabimochi (jelly-like confectionary) before your eyes, topped off with a delightful kuromitsu (black sugar syrup) dressing.
The drinks: Sake (from B300/glass) and umeshu (B350/ glass or B900 for a set of three varieties) is joined by a small selection of whiskey, Champagne and beer. The wine list is coming soon. Why we’d come back: Riku helms the operation with grace and poise, but he’s not averse to small talk either (he speaks competent English), elevating this to something more fun than the stuffy omakase experience you might find elsewhere. Wanvida Jiralertpaiboon 1974 Petchburi Rd., 065-738-9999. Open Tue-Sun 5:30-10:30pm
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Hyrbs
Heekcaa
White Cafe x Black Bar
NEW AND NOTED
Black or White Sitting pretty on the ninth floor of Thonglor’s Somerset Hotel, White Cafe x Black Bar (Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-381-1561) serves Thai fusion food and drinks both indoors and outdoors. Take a plum seat at one of the tables by the pool and order a bento set of papaya salad, fried chicken winglets and spicy salmon salad (B240) or a set of fried rice with mackerel, shrimp paste chili dip, fried vegetables and seaweed broth (B220). Do also try the house special Hongthong x Sam Ma Tea (Thai whiskey served with a pot of tea, B300/set), which is sure to get you drunk before you know it.
Herbal Power Usually in the business of making natural aroma oils, inhalants and balms, Hyrbs (www.fb.com/hyrbs.co) has now rolled out a range of organic tea blends. Not only cutely packaged, these teas also claim a bunch of health benefits. New releases include Willy Willy (B390/10 tea bags), a blend of bitter melon, cinnamon and lavender that they say helps with
bloating, insomnia and dryness, and Ice Lava (B390/10 tea bags), a mix of butterfly pea, pandan and clove, that's supposedly good for acne and eczema. Inhalers and balms are priced at B159 and B180, respectively, and all products can be ordered online.
Cheese Please Move over bubble tea. Guangzhou-born chain Heekcaa (2/F, Siam Discovery, Rama 1 Rd.) tops its tea drinks with whipped cream cheese. On some drinks, like the oolong tea (B90), the thick layer of frothy cheese is slightly bitter, while on others it's sweet, such as in the matcha tea (B120). There are also homegrown additions to the menu, which the owner says all had to get approval from HQ in China (where the brand is now known as Heytea), like Thai iced tea (B120), made with tea leaves grown in Southern Thailand and finished off with a pinch of foy thong. They also have a mango cheese drink (B120), made with only the nam dok mai mango variety, as well as Milo (B95) and cocoa (B95) drinks. Wanvida Jiralertpaiboon
TABLE TALK
Domino’s Pizza One Fenix Square, Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-663-6109. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 10am-11pm Ten years after disappearing from Bangkok, Domino’s Pizza made a roaring return in 2012. The US-born pizza chain boasts of its classic hand-tossed and signature pan crusts, as well as signature toppings like pepperoni, Hawaiian and seafood that reach right to the edge. Delivery is another strong suit, with an ever-growing number of store locations offering a 30-minute delivery guarantee. Exclusively for Citi credit card members. Get 10% discount for 9” and 12” pizza (excluding favorite ranges and applicable for both dine-in and carry out) Today – 31 Mar 18
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bites FOOD REVIEWS
Ohkajhu
HHHH
Salad. 426/2-4 Siam Square Soi 7, 063-0938388. Open daily 10am-9:30pm. BB F
Chiang Mai’s popular salad and steak restaurant branched out to Siam Square in early 2017 and quickly began causing queues. Even on our most recent visit, five months later, we had to wait 45 minutes for a table after arriving at 9pm on a Wednesday night. Ohkajhu has built its name for the organic and hydroponic vegetables it grows on its farm up north. These take center stage in the highlighted salads: design your own or choose from the likes of the spicy tuna salad (B165), a photogenic fruit salad served in a melon shell (B240) or a bowl of salmon with grilled tofu, greens and grains (B285). You’re at least guaranteed a hearty portion in the avocado spinach salad (B255), which comes with juicy grilled chicken with just the right amount of seas o n i n g . T h e ve g g i es, to o, t a ste evidently farm fresh. But our problems with Ohkajhu start with the dressings. Despite there being 22 options to choose from, they seem to differ only in color and thickness.
Edoya HHHH Japanese. 1/F, Charn Issara Tower, 942/51 Rama 4 R d . , 0 2 -2 3 3 - 0 2 3 2 . O p e n M o n - S a t 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-11pm; Sun 5:30-11pm. BBB. Corkage starts at B600. F
Edoya has been around since 1980, which makes it one of Bangkok’s oldest Japanese restaurants. That means it hails from a time before budget flights to Tokyo and waived visa requirements, which in turn means that Bangkok’s high-air-mileage Japanophiles will notice that the catch-all menu of tempura, sushi, yaki (grilled skewers), donburi (rice bowls), shabu shabu (hot pot) and a whole lot more doesn’t quite have the same focus as their favorite Japanese restaurants. The same can be said of the main dining room’s dated hotel lobby vibe (our tip: request one of the private rooms, which have a lot more charm). But then Edoya probably costs a lot less than those places, too. Compared to neighbor Masato its prices look like a bargain, but the answer why becomes quite clear when you tuck
into the food. The tempura (Masato’s undisputed strong suit) comes in a limp, oily batter that, in the case of the “Tempura Mori” set (two prawns, squid, aubergine, carrot, B350) covers produce that’s just as mediocre. No wonder the same thing would set you back about B500 over at Masato. From our experience, you’re better off sticking with the sushi. At B700, the “Jyo” nigiri set comes with a hunger-busting collection of lean tuna, salmon, amberjack, squid, shrimp, eel, omelet, salmon roe and masago (small fish roe). That’s quite the bang for your buck, even while we’ll concede that the rice is too mushy, the eel lacking texture and the shrimp too skimpy on the portion. Aside from some affordable sake starting at B340/300ml, that’s about as exciting as things get at Edoya. An assorted plate of yakitori (grilled chicken skewers, B190/small; B370/large) ranges from kidney that lacks tang to mushy, minced chicken balls that are just unpleasant. The akashi yakifu (B150) are like a more eggy take on takoyaki (octopus dumplings), covering the rubbery octopus is a centimeter thick layer of underseasoned batter. You’ll need the ponzu sauce because there’s very little flavor without it. Judging from the dining room on our last visit, Silom-Surawong’s Japanese clientele is voting with their tastebuds rather than their wallet, and dining at Masato instead. You’ll find us with them.
Ratings
Price guide
PPPP PPPP PPPP PPPP
B BB BBB BBBB
Forget it Only if you’re in the neighborhood A pleasant dining experience Not to be missed BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.
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Whether it’s the honey dijon mustard, a watery mix of honey and sweet salad cream, or the thicker tofu dressing, we really taste only one thing: blandness. Worse, the heavier sadly seem to showcase a lot of bog packaged sauces and other off the shelf products. Ohkajhu’s grilled German sausages (B345 for three) taste anything but homemade thanks to their tough casing, and the accompanying liquid-y gravy reeks of Maggi sauce. The barbecue ribs with wedges (B315) are also pedestrian. The meat, though tender, doesn’t fall off the bone, and the brown liquid masquerading as a marinade is way too sweet with no complexity whatsoever. Other dishes just seem like total mismatches. The smoked salmon wrap (B185) in a sad whole-wheat sheet is meant to come with salmon roe and crabmeat, but we found little trace of either on our last visit except for the unpleasant smell of crab in the cream cheese. Just as unappetizing is the mushy salmon. The angel hair pasta (B235) is soggy and comes with shrimp so bouncy and translucent you’d be forgiven for thinking you’re dining in an MK restaurant. The sweet green bean soup (B75) has the texture of water, which the addition of fresh cream can’t save. We applaud Ohkajhu’s ambition to raise awareness of organic produce, but the execution is far from ideal. If the crowds were to thin out, we might return for a bowl of fresh greens, but really we’d rather buy them to take home and eat with a decent dressing.
Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.
Symbols
H Reservations recommended F Parking available E Dress requirements G Live music
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now
FRI In the Swing Bangkok’s alternative Japanese expat crowd has spent the past seven years getting down to a party series run by beardy turntablist and niche music aficionado Masa Niwayama. Called Giant Swing, it celebrates its seventh anniversary this Friday (Sep 1) at Thonglor’s quirkiest dive bar, 12x12, with visiting DJs NKchan, Hidemasa Mitsui and Jim Man. See page 27.
SAT Culture Club Psych rockers Yaan blend Indiainspired riffs with electro soundscapes to create a noise that Bangkok’s alt party crowd just can’t get enough of. Catch them this Sat (Sep 2) during Concert Gallery, and at the same time check out an exhibition by Panamanian artist Elsa Herrera—and all at one of Bangkok’s hottest new live music spots, Black Cabin. See page 27.
FRI Hop to It To celebrate Thailand’s rising craft beer movement, local brewer Stonehead is organizing the three-day (Sep 1-3) Bangkok Beer Fest. On top of local and imported beers, there’ll also be plenty of food and live music. See page 27.
THU A Read on Art From Sep 7-10, 28 of Bangkok’s independent and small publishers team up and present Bangkok Art Book Fair. It’s an excuse to go rub shoulders with the designer-y crowd over at CityCity Gallery, as well as pick up some awesome art titles, screen prints and ‘zines. See page 28.
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now MUSIC
NIGHTLIFE
Degurutieni
Ink Waruntorn
gigs CONCERT GALLERY Boris Rubin
DJ KASH ON TOUR
LA's up-and-coming EDM DJ Kash spins a mix of electro-progressive and house. Sep 1, 7pm. Black Pagoda, Patpong Soi 2. Free. GIANT SWING 7TH ANNIVERSARY PARTY
Japanese DJ Masa Niwayama marks seven years on Bangkok's clubbing scene by spinning techno, disco and garage beats alongside DJs NKchan, Hidemasa Mitsui and Jim Man. Sep 1, 9pm. 12 x 12, 810/22 Thonglor Soi Thararom 2, 094-260-4713. B400 includes a free t-shirt. MORENO
Safe Room takes a break from its schedule "Baan Means House" series for a one-night set by Germany's DJ Moreno. Sep 1, 9pm. Whiteline, Silom Soi 8, 087-061-1117. Free. PAY DAY DISCO SOUNDSYSTEM
Unwind with disco beats from Slum Disco Soundsystem. Sep 1, 9pm. Studio Lam, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-2616661. Free. YVES V
The Belgian DJ and producer spins a full night of Dutch house beats. Sep 1, 9pm. Onyx, Soi Soonvijai, Rama 9 Rd. B500. GLOW WITH KABALE UND LIEBE
Dutch electronic figurehead Kabale Und Liebe, co-owner of the Soweso Music label, spins a dynamic set supported by Thailand's DJ Sunju Hargun. Sep 1, 9:30pm. Glow, 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 086-614-3355. B350 includes a free drink. BANGKOK BEER FEST. BY STONEHEAD
Thai craft brewer Stone Head is behind this three-day beer festival under the theme "Beginning of the Hopster." On top of 50+ local and international beers, there will be live performances from bands like Two Pill After Meal, Yookee Playboy and Somkiat plus tasty sides to
DJ Nastanet
munch on. Sep 1-3, 5pm. Show DC Oasis Outdoor Arena, Rama 9 Rd. B200 includes a free drink. CULT OF THE BLUE HAUS
The Mexican eatery hosts an open mic night (without the microphone). Sep 4, 8pm. Casa Azul, 2/23 Phahon Yothin Soi 7 (Ari), 02-619-5107. Free. SHAPOV
Part of the "million listeners a month" club on Spotify, Shapov performs the type of genre-defying dance music that's seen him land slots alongside Axwell and Tiesto. Sep 7, 9pm. Levels, 6/F, Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-308-3246, 095-248-3897. B350 includes a free drink. DUBVISION
Dutch house and EDM DJ brothers Dubvision perform a brand new high-intensity set. Sep 8, 9pm. Onyx, Soi Soonvijai, Rama 9 Rd. B500. BLACK
Thonglor's new dedicated jazz spot hosts its grand opening party. Sep 9, 8pm. Black, Thonglor Soi 25, 096989-1820. Free. FUTURE SOUNDS
A no-frills night of electronic music with DJs Nastanet and Boris Rubin. Sep 9, 10pm. Whiteline, Silom Soi 8, 087-061-1117. B200 includes a free drink.
A night blending art and music, and Latin American and Southeast Asian cultures, curated by Panamanian artist Buhonero Clandestino. Featuring art by Elsa Herrera (Panama) and Pupp Charuvastr, and a live set from India-inspired psych-rockers Yaan. Sep 2, 7pm. Black Cabin Bar, Wild & Co., 33/1 Soi Farm Wattana, Rama 4 Rd., 061-515-6989. B300 includes a free drink. ROCK THIS WAY BKK: VOL. 1
Live bands Plague Pits and The Reapers, as well as DJs Rory Breaker-Morant and Aopsher chart rock tracks from the '60s till now. Sep 2, 10pm. Chow Cafe and Bar, 2802 Soi New Petchaburi, 02-318-2273. B300 includes a free drink.
Hate Mondays and God Hates & The Greed. Sep 9, 9pm. Overstay, Charan Sanit Wong Soi 80-82, 02-8834836. B450. “MALAMA LA LUNA CONCERT” SONGS AMONG THE STARS
An all-ages nighttime concert featuring Jelly Rocket, Temp, Lukpeach, Ink Waruntorn and River Rhyme. Limited to 200 tickets at bit.ly/2xmPGqZ . S e p 9, 6pm. B u f f a l o Bridge Gallery, 490/5 Paholyothin Rd., 02-616-6669. B300. THE GONG STRIKES BACK
A night of underground rock music from Cold Black Vines, Matthew Fischer, The Young Wolf and Sasi, an expressionist art installation by Gabrile Camelin and a fetish-inspired fashion show. Sep 2, 7pm. Black Pagoda, Patpong Soi 2. B250.
D.O.A LIVE AT THE OVERSTAY
The Canadian '80s underground hardcore band are joined by locals Cold Black Vines, 10 Baht Per Hour,
CONCERT
VOL.9 HAUNTED STUDIO
Japanese band Degurutieni perform their eclectic and slightly spooky mix of electronic and toy music supported by veteran indie duo Stylish Nonsense and resident DJs Funky Pump and Maft Sai. Sep 10, 9pm. Studio Lam, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. B400.
DIIV
CLASSICAL
TOMMY EMMANUEL LIVE IN BANGKOK 4TH PRINCESS GALYANI VADHANA INTERNATIONAL SYMPOSIUM 2017
A discussion exploring the relations between music and mythology in Southeast Asia and how they connect to transform our current realities. For the call for papers and creative works, see bit.ly/2wc32tD. Through Sep 1, 2pm. Princess Galyani Vadhana Institute of Music, 2010 Arun Amarin 36, 02-447-8597.
The Australian guitar player known for his complex finger-style technique performs live. Tickets available at bit.ly/2wDrm7V. Sep 9, 7pm. Show DC Oasis Outdoor Arena, Rama 9 Rd., 02-203-1888. B1,400-2,300 TIGERJAMS 2 CENTERSTAGE
HYHBKK WEEKEND NOISE WITH DIIV
Brooklyn noise-pop band DIIV are joined by four of Bangkok's rising rock bands, Hariguem Zaboy, Cloud Behind, Triggs & the Longest Day and FOLK9. Advance tickets available at bit .ly/2wDVkbP. Sep 9, 5pm. The Link Asoke-Makkasan, 1643/5,7 New Petchaburi Rd., 089122-0553. B1,300. MRT Phetchaburi
A large-scale concert from all-time popular bands like Flure, Paradox, and Tattoo Colour. Tickets sold at bit. ly/2xy7zDp. Sep 2, 4:30pm. Voice Space, BBD Building, 197 Viphavadi Rangsit, 02-261-3883. B350 (B500 at the door price).
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now ART
THEATER
The State of Innocence
Teenage Wasteland
THE PILLOWMAN A Trace of Mortality
Of Legends and Lore by Takafumi Asakura
THE LAST EXHIBITION
OF LEGENDS AND LORE BY TAKAFUMI ASAKURA
Following up his canceled 2016 exhibition, Sina Wittayawiroj's explores censorship and self-censorship. Sep 9-24, 6pm. Cartel Artspace, 2198/10, 22 Narathiwas Rd.
The Japanese artist exhibits works that combine painting and calligraphy. Sep 1-30, 6pm. Serindia Gallery Annex, Phloen Chit Rd.
A TRACE OF MORTALITY
Emerging artist Rungruang Sittirerk teams up with filmmaker Marisa Srijunplang to recount their childhood experience of migrating from the rural countryside to urbanized areas, and the inherent class divide, through country songs, movies and folktales. Sep 9-Oct 20, 6pm. Tentacles N22, Narathiwas Soi 22, 082-4871487.
Leading Malaysian contemporary photographer Eiffel Chong showcases 15 pieces of work from throughout his career so far. Sep 9-Oct 28, 6pm. Kathmandu Photo Gallery, 87 Pan Rd., 02-234-6700. NEVER FAR FROM
Apichart Thitiwongworasakul's series explores the contrast of light and dark through various mediums in the wake of King Bhumibol's death and the ensuing mourning. Sep 7-Oct 22, 7pm. Case Space Revolution, 2/F, Broccoli Revolution, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-662-5002.
SOMEWHERE (NOT HERE)
THE STATE OF INNOCENCE
Photographers Sophirat Muangkum and Pokchat Worasub expose all in this exhibition inspired by the vulnerability of the human body. Sep 9-Oct 5, 7pm. Rebel Art Space, 10/5 Sukhumvit Soi 67, 087-112-7774.
A dark and twisted story performance by graduate students from Chula's Faculty of Arts. In Thai. Tickets at bit. ly/2vK9ftz. Sep 1, 7:30pm; Sep 2, 2pm. Chulalongkorn University, 254 Phaya Thai Rd., 02-215-0871/-3. TEENAGE WASTELAND: SUMMER, STAR AND THE (LOST) CHRYSANTHEMUM
This biographical sci-fi play directed by Thanaphon Accawatanyu and Thongchai Pimapunsri explores the impact of past events on youths' future. Dedicated to author Chit Phumisak, who helped translate the Marxist Manifesto into Thai, and politician Pridi Banomyong, the so-called father
of Thai democracy. Through Sep 10, 7pm. M Theater, 2884/2 New Petchaburi Rd., 08-0260-0771/-6. B550. FOUR REIGNS: THE MUSICAL
Adapted from the novel by Kukrit Pramoj, this theater performance follows a young girl named Phloi from a lower aristocratic family, charting the pivotal shift from absolute monarchy to constitutional monarchy. Through Sep 17, 7pm. Muang Thai Rachadalai Theatre, 4/F, The Esplanade, 99 Ratchadaphisek Rd., 02-262-3456. B500-3,000.
STUFF
SALES & FAIRS
YED TALKS #02
Noise Market
Bangkok Art Book Fair
NOISE MARKET
BANGKOK FARMER'S MARKET
The music-focused flea market returns at a new venue selling crafts, CDs and music-related paraphernalia, food and drink. Sep 2, 11am. Larn Bai Mai, 523 Maha Phruthararn Rd., 02-353-8600.
Shop for the finest organic produce from local suppliers, along with well-crafted artisanal and baked goods. Sep 9-10, 11am. Gateway Ekamai, 982/22 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-108-2888.
JAPAN EXPO
ART WEEKEND
A massive Japanese fair featuring anime, comics, games, travel packages and food, alongside booths detailing some 10,000 education and job opportunities. Sep 1-3, 11pm. 5/F Royal Paragon Hall, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-8023.
Meet some of the city's top illustrators, from Alex Face to Tuna Dunn, as they host pop-up studios and work their magic live. Sep 9-10, 12pm. The Commons, 335 Thonglor Soi 17, 089-152-2677.
ARTBOX
Twenty-eight of the city's independent and small publishers converge on Sathorn, including screenprint studio The Archivist, Japan-born design space FabCafe, design magazine Art4D and rising illustrators Tae Parvit x MM. x Bloody Hell Big Head. Aside from art book launches, the event promises a series of talks and lectures. Sep 7-10, 6pm. Bangkok CityCity Gallery, 13/3 Sathorn Soi 1, 083-087-2725. B60.
In collaboration with online retailer Zilingo, this sales market comes under a cutesy theme offering fashion, food and and live music. Through Sep 3, 4pm. Suanluang Square, Chulalongkorn Soi 12, 02-214-5235.
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BANGKOK ART BOOK FAIR
The second session of this humorous twist on the globally renowned TED Talks promises 8 speakers covering topics such as "What's it like to be gay abroad?" and "Aftercare for post-sexual reassignment surgery." There will be bus services running back to inner-city Bangkok. Sep 9, 3pm. Chang Chui, 460/8 Sirindhorn Rd. B500-800.
CALL FOR SUBMISSIONS TENTACLES TV
Narathiwat's experimental art space Tentacles is calling on creators of moving images to submit their works for a new showcase called Tentacles TV. Applications are open to local and international filmmakers through Sep 15 with no limit on genre. The gallery will screen 20 selected works for 6 months starting from Sep 20, along with monthly discussion sessions. For more details about submissions visit www.tentaclesgallery.com. Tentacles, 2198/10-11 Narathiwas Soi 22, 089-117-3434.
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now SPECIAL SCREENINGS
FILM
Opening
The 21st Short Film & Video Festival
KILLING GROUND (AUSTRALIA)
SECURITY (USA)
Horror/Thriller. A couples’ camping trip turns into a nightmare after they come across a horrific crime scene.
Action/Thriller. A security guard must protect a woman who is at the mercy of a vicious gang for participating as a trial witness.
Doc on Demand River City Film Club's Saturdays' Screenings
FRESH & RARE EP.1 DEAR PARENT, THIS IS MY FILM
TK DOC FEST
King Mongkut's Institute of Technology Ladkrabang holds its first ever thesis exhibition showcasing the works of film students. The two-day event promises screenings of short films ranging from animation to documentary. The screenings start at 11:30am. Admission is free.
TK Park hosts a mini documentary festival in collaboration with Documentary Club. Across the two days, they will screen two films: Life, Animated (2016), about how animated Disney movies help a young autistic man overcome communication boundaries, and Kedi (2017), about the hundreds of thousands of cats that roam free and add character to Istanbul. Both screenings will be followed by discussions led by the founder of Documentary Club, Thida Plitpholkarnpim (Sep 2) and a guest speaker from ThaiPBS (Sep 3).
Sep 2-3, 11.30am-7.30pm. TK Park, 8/F, CentralWorld, 999/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-257-4300.
THE 21ST SHORT FILM & VIDEO FESTIVAL
The Thai Film Foundation’s festival dedicated to promoting film culture in Thailand returns yet again. The 21st Short Film & Video Festival promises two weeks of screenings featuring over a hundred films from around the world from as far afield as Russia, Greece, France, Germany and Afghanistan. It all takes place at Auditorium and Room no.501 of Bangkok Art and Culture Center (BACC) with screenings starting at 5pm on weekdays and 11am on weekends. Entry is free. For the full schedule, visit www.fb.com/ThaiShortFilmVideoFestival. Through Sep 10. 5/F, Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre (BACC), 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-260-2606-8.
DOCUMENTARY FILM NIGHT: FRANKENSTEIN COMPLEX
The Foreign Correspondents' Club of Thailand teams up with Documentary Club to screen Frankenstein Complex, Gilles Penso and Alexandre Poncet’s 2015 documentary about the artists responsible for bringing monstrous creatures from King Kong, Avatar, Star Wars and the Lord of the Rings to life. The screening starts at 7pm. The tickets are B150 for non-menbers and free for members. Sep 4, 7pm-10pm. Foreign Correspondents' Club of Thailand, 518/5 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-652-0580.
Sep 2-3, 1-5pm. TK Park, 8/F, CentralWorld, 999/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02257-4300.
RIVER CITY FILM CLUB'S SATURDAYS’ SCREENINGS
Every Saturday throughout September, the riverside mall will screen a selection of diverse films. It all kicks off on Sep 2 with the German film Soul Kitchen, followed by Turkey’s Unutursam Fisilda (Whisper, If I Forget) on Sep 9, Bend It Like Beckham (UK) on Sep 16, East Side Sushi (USA) on Sep 23 and Fair Play (Czech Republic) on Sep 30. Admission is free.
WHAT HAPPENED TO MONDAY? (FRANCE)
THE EMOJI MOVIE (USA)
Sci-fi/Thriller. In a dystopian world governed by a drastic one-child policy, identical septuplets must avoid government surveillance.
Animation. Gene, a multi-expressional emoji, sets out on a journey to become like his single-expression peers.
AMERICAN MADE (USA)
INHUMANS (USA)
Biography/Action. The life story of Barry Seal (Tom Cruise), a pilot and a drug smuggler who the CIA recruited to be an intelligence provider in the 1980s.
Sci-Fi/Action. In this Imax premiere of the new Marvel TV series, an isolated superhuman community must fight to save their lives.
Upcoming (Sep 7)
Sep 2-30, 3pm. Room 201, 2/F, River City Bangkok, 23 Trok Rongnamkaeng, Yotha Rd., 02-237-0077.
DOC ON DEMAND
Documentary Club has just launched an online watchon-demand service. For as little as B79, you can watch an ever-growing list of documentaries like Gayby Baby (2015), the controversial look at gender identity through the lives of four children and their parents who identify as either gay or lesbian, and Cartel Land (2015), the in-depth exploration of the deadly drug trade along the US-Mexico border—all without leaving your couch. Visit documentaryclubthailand.com/vod-and-dvd.
THE PROMISE (THAILAND)
IT (USA)
Horror. Partially filmed at Sathorn’s iconic “Ghost Tower.” A woman whose daughter is haunted by a ghost believes it must have something to do with a promise she made, and then broke, to her best friend to end their lives together 20 years ago during the Tom Yung Goong financial crisis.
Horror. This adaptation of Stephen King’s 1986 horror novel sees a group of bullied children band together to fight off the advances of a psychotic clown.
ART OPENING Hope Land Opening Sep 2 at Jam, Hope Land is the latest exhibition by American photographer Adam Birkan and it has the distinction of being shot entirely from his apartment window in upper Sukhumvit. Captured over the past year and a half while Birkan was "often in his underwear," the photos speak of the diversity of Bangkok through the photographer's trademark subtle, minimalist style. "I am too high to see sorrow and despair, and too low to see happiness. But I am just the right height to see their hopes and dreams," Birkan says of his 34th-floor vantage point. A limited-run Hope Land zine will be up sale on the opening night only. The exhibition, Birkan's third in Bangkok, runs until Sep 24. Jam, 41 Charoen Rat Soi 1, 083-5451-833. BTS Surasak.
GIRLS TRIP (USA)
MONSTER FAMILY (USA)
Comedy. A group of friends take the trip of a lifetime to New Orleans, along the way rekindling their sisterhood and unleashing their wild sides.
Animation. A family’s attempt to reconnect for one night backfires when a witch turns them into monsters. THE GLASS CASTLE (USA)
Drama. Based on a memoir by Jeannette Walls, this film recounts the upbringing of four siblings in a free-spirited and dysfunctional household. Stars Woody Harrelson and Naomi Watts.
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