BK E-Magazine 753, Dec 21 2018 by BK Magazine

it's free!

Happy New Year Here’s where to party! Rama 9 Could you really live there? Shopping Season The best new threads in town Take a Break Thailand’s hottest hotel openings Free tk inside: BK Gift Guide NO. 753 DEC 21, 2018. www.bkmagazine.com

This Was

Bangkok

2018

cover_753-21dec18_New.indd 1

12/14/18 2:52 PM

P.2 Singha.indd 2

12/14/18 4:11 PM

page 3

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 21, 2018

Who's in charge? Managing Director & Publisher Andrew Hiransomboon

upfront

Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Digital Director / Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Senior Digital Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Digital Content Coordinator Pakchira Bunphol Writers Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj, Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley, Kankanok Wichiantanon

2018’s SEA Write winner on the state of Thailand

Art Director Ratchprapha Sunthornprasat Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Graphic Designers Anunya Chobnitas, Wirankan Saiyasombut Photographer Poonsawat Suttama

ASIA CITY STUDIO Managing Editor Dietrich Neu Associate Editor Sureepak Janyapat Senior Project Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Project Coordinator Sirinart Panyasricharoen Senior Developer Wasan Wangrach Writer-Translator Tripop Leelasestaporn Branded Content Writer Chakariya Cheewatara SOIMILK Editor Nathapong Suppavatee Senior Writer Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan Writer Atiwat Uton Brand Manager Onwara Sittirug Sales Associates Prawpraew Pairohg, Kornkanok Sriwaranant

Pimp my Prayuth A fun new game for all the family from BK Magazine The ban on politics is off and as Thailand moves towards a brave new 2019, our general leader is reinventing himself as the people’s politician. From opening his own Facebook page to partying with AKB48, Prayuth is finally getting with the modern era—and we want you, the readers of BK Magazine, to help him. With BK ’s Pimp my Prayuth, you can put generalissimo on the road to populist success with these hip new looks trending in the coolest parts of Bangkok. Politics has never been so much fun!

Video Content Manager Wanlop Rungkuvijad Video Designer Saranya Laowtrakul Videographer Nattapol Srisukh Junior Video Editor Tham Rodjananaudomvutigul Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Managers Tipkritta Chiraporncharas, Orajira Sukkasem Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri

06 cover

How much of 2018 do you remember?

Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Assistant Finance Manager Anchalee Limkhamduang Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Accountant Manita Bangmoung Admin Executive Yaovaluck Srisermsri

Contributors Angela Symons, Kathy MacLeod Interns Aomthong Linthong, Jidapa Kanogsirima

calendar

Cover design by Wirankan Saiyasombut

Here’s where to party on NY Eve

Asia City Media Group Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net) Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)

Where to find us!

The Asia City Media Group Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower 100 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 Email: bkmagazine@asia-city.co.th

BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2018 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Media Group (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250

20 travel

Check in to Thailand’s best hotels of 2018

23 drink

Budget bubbles put to the test

get in the loop

bkmagazine.com

contest, updates, stories

facebook.com/bkmagazine

latest news and trends

@bkmagazine

see what’s happening

@bkmagazine

TOC-BK#752-14Dec2018.indd 3

shopping

neighborhood

The year’s coolest new shops

Should you move to Rama 9?

“He’s a Seoul man! Check out my cool Korean street-style Prayuth.” Jitti Khaopong, 29

“My hipster Prayuth knows his slow-drip from his espresso roast.” Olan Kiattisak, 32

“Life’s a beach for my Khaosan backpacker Prayuth.” Sek Loso, 44

12/14/18 5:48 PM

upfront

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 21, 2018

HOT OR NOT

FB.COM/TPRAYUTOFFICIAL FB.COM/TOMGREEN

POLITICS

Multi award-winning novelist on inspiration and the state of Thailand

Ready, set, go! The junta has finally fired the starter pistol on political activities, according to an announcement in the Royal Gazette. Our general leader has also finally come out of the political closet with the announcement he’ll also be running for the highest elected office in the land. Feb 24, here we come!

INTERVIEW

“Thailand is going to be so f*cked up in 10 years time...and no one is really doing anything about it” THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID

UPFRONT-BK#753-21DEC18-2.indd 4

I wanted to be a country music singer when I was younger.

people’s.

I read a lot as a kid because I didn’t like studying and the television had only four channels.

I am inspired when I don’t understand something. I work on a novel when I’m trying to find an answer.

I didn’t get along with my family that well. My mom was busy most of the time but she would always make sure to bring a few books home.

I felt like I had to write [Blind Earthworm in a Labyrinth] back in 2010 because the political situation was very bad then and I didn’t understand a lot of things.

The first book I fell in love with was I am David by Anne Holm. Back then, I didn’t truly understand the meaning of the immigrant story, but I liked the style.

Politics is not a reasonable thing, it is very emotional. Having different political views is one thing, but when you’re glad that the supporters of the other side were being killed—that’s a completely different story.

I was so close to going broke before I won my first SEA Write Award—I only had B5,000 left. It’s not easy being an author. True love is so problematic in the modern world—emotions are disregarded as there are so many other factors involved. Tinder isn’t for everyone. I think I still believe in love. It’s all around for sure, but not everyone is lucky enough to experience it. It requires some luck. I used to believe in the law of karma—my parents taught me that what goes around comes around—but over the past few years, I’ve stopped. A lot of bad people seem to be living the good life—just look at some politicians. Bangkok used to be a very diverse city, but in the past few years it has turned into the rich people’s city. Awards are just a matter of opinion. Don’t get me wrong, having won has definitely helped me with book sales and making a living, but it doesn’t make me a better writer, nor does it mean that my work is better than other

Could we see the end of Bangkok’s ‘90s obsession in 2019? These two lined-up acts say so. First we’ve got Freddy Got Fingered star Tom Green (see your stoner friend’s viewing habits circa 2001) on Apr 20, but not before John Mayer on Apr 3, whose music we last heard while not getting laid in college.

My biggest achievement is to be a mother. A good writer should love life and people. I don’t think anyone can be a good writer if they can’t see the beauty in both happiness and sadness. Every day when I wake up, I start writing straight away, with a cup of coffee. That’s my favorite time to work because everything is still so quiet and no one has woken up yet. I’m currently working on two books. There is not much I can tell you until they’re finished, except that one is for, or about, children. Thailand is going to be so f*cked up in 10 years time. Not even—give it five years. And no one is really doing anything about it—there are no riots. The laws are so messed up, so are the economics. If I were the prime minister of Thailand I would give everyone B2,000. Prayuth only gives B500. Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj Buy The Blind Earthworm in the Labyrinth, translated by Kong Rithdee, at Kinokuniya, B399

SAMUT PRAKAN Bangkok’s sole claim to the BTS is finally up, now that the Green Line reaches to our neighboring province of Samut Prakan. Go there for a genuine floating market rather than a tourist trap, lots of golf courses and a theme park filled with mini versions of other stuff from around Thailand.

DDALBIEZ

Thai author Veeraporn Nitiprapha, 56, just had her seminal 2015 novel, The Blind Earthworm in the Labyrinth, translated into English for the first time. Veeraporn won her second SEA Write Award in 2018 for new novel Memories of the Memories of the BlackRose-Cat. We sat down with her to chat about childhood, modern love and what she would do if she were prime minister.

THE 2000S

SAMUT PRAKAN The assholes running Samut Prakan’s Crocodile Farm and Zoo have defended themselves after photos went viral of a performing elephant whose skin looks like it’s falling off. The sorry state of the animal is a far cry from the province’s most iconic landmark: a mighty, three-headed elephant god. One day let’s hope real creatures gain the same respect.

by Kathy MacLeod (IG: @kathy_macleod)

12/13/18 7:12 PM

ADVERTORIAL

Celebrate Christmas in style with this new festive menu from PAUL From seafood and cheese to freshly baked desserts PAUL, the renowned 129-year-old bakery from France, is helping you celebrate Christmas in style with an all-new seasonal menu available from now until Jan 15, 2019. As you would expect, the menu is all about those classic Christmas dishes we all know and love using high-end produce imported from France. Kick off your meal by choosing between two salad and sandwich options—meaning you can get the ingredient mixture as either a salad or between slices. The first is the Goat Cheese Honey (B380 for salad/B295 for sandwich), which is packed with flavors thanks to creamy goat cheese, sweet apricots, fresh rocket, and crunchy walnuts. Another option is the Smoked

Salmon Dill (B390 for salad/B300 for sandwich), which, basically, comes with exactly what’s in the name. For main dishes, the Seafood Gratin (B450) comes with crispy Vienna garlic bread and is packed with baby scallops, mussels, squid, shrimp, and a snow crab claw. Other recommend options include the Chicken Parmigiana (B380)—a surprisingly juicy, deep-fried chicken thigh topped with mozzarella and tomato sauce, served with your choice of pasta, or the Pork Filet Mignon (B420) served in Charcutière sauce (loosely translated as “sauce of the pork butcher”) with sauteed potatoes and mushrooms. Dessert choices range from Log Cake (choose from praline, Cointreau and raspberry flavors,

PAUL, 1/F Megabangna, Foodwalk Zone, Bangna-Trat Rd. 02-105-2250

B160/piece), rich and dense black forest cake (B180/piece) Crown Brioche (choose from chocolate, raisin, and chocolate Viennese, B285), and the seasonal Mini Macarons (B550/12 pieces), which come in salted caramel butter, chestnut, blackcurrant, cherry, citrus, and chocolate passion fruit flavors. Try all of these delicious dishes at PAUL’s five branches around Bangkok, including Central Embassy, The Emporium, CentralWorld, Siam Paragon, and Megabangna—the newly opened branch which offers some casual vibes from the self-service PAUL Le Cafe zone, or dining in a classic restaurant area.

cover | year in review

Taan

It was nice knowing you. By BK staff

Nahm

The year in SEX

Morning glory straw at Broccoli Revolution

The year in PLASTIC Too little too late or a bold step in the right direction? Bangkok made its first in-roads at curbing plastic waste on Dec 10 when shoppers everywhere were presented with the prospect of taking that pack of Dentyne Chew home without a bag. That’s right, our first ever plastic bag-free day came at the end of a year that saw a tide of bad publicity pointed in plastic’s direction. Jonathan Head was on the BBC, telling us our moo ping doesn’t need two bags for the meat and an extra one for the sauce. A whale washed up on an Andaman beach with a stomach lined in low-density polyethylene. And restaurants everywhere (well, from Phrom Phong to Thonglor, at least) said no to plastic straws and served us everything from morning glory to bamboo instead. We even took to the streets to ask Bangkokians their thoughts on this political hot potato. You can watch it at goo.gl/bS2593.

BK Salutes You

Too bad if you haven’t booked a table at Sorn yet. It will now take you until at least April before you can snag a seat at that most buzzed-about arrival of 2018. But we do have other good news for you. The past 12 months have been ablaze with modern, inventive Thai restaurants who are putting the spotlight on local ingredients and using them to elevate Thai cuisine to a level on par with the fanciest European places. Saawaan saw the young kitchen partnership of Sujira “Aom” Pongmorn (formerly at Sra Bua) and Arisara “Paper” Chongphanitkul (also of Issaya patisserie and Top Tables Best Pastry Chef 2018) break out a tasting menu that’s at once distinctly Thai yet remarkably reinventive. Then there was R. Haan, which like its contemporaries also picked up a Michelin star thanks to the menus of Iron Chef poster-guy Chumphol Jangprai, as well as the sky-high locavore tastes of Taan. Props also go to Pim Techamuanvivit, the new head chef at Nahm who’s taken over Sir D.T.’s shoes and proved she can do just as well on her own terms. Meanwhile at the newly opened Waldorf Astoria, they debuted the talents of chef Rungthiwa “Fay” Chummongkhon, who with over a decade in Denmark’s new Nordic kitchens behind her is producing some seriously winning Southeast-Asia-meets-Scandinavia tasting menus at The Front Room. Trust us, it works.

Here’s to the Thais who made 2018 awesome “I always wear makeup every time I fight.” Nong Rose, who became the first transgender muay Thai fighter to compete in Europe.

CoverStory-BK#753-21Dec2018_3_NEW.indd 6

Thailand: destination no. 1 for would-be sex tourists planning their next break, according to Gambia. Don’t remember that one? It happened back in February, when the African nation’s minister for tourism told a local talk show that any tourists looking for a som’ som’ should go to Thailand, not Gambia. A diplomatic row brewed and formal complaints were lodged— all in the exact same week that a group of Russians were arrested in Pattaya for running tips-and-tricks courses for prostitutes. (This one we’re sure you do remember.) The group in question, headed by an Alexander Kirilov, 38, then spent their time in jail claiming they had evidence that proved all the worst stuff Robert Mueller’s been looking for against Donald Trump. If you think all this sounds like the plot to a bad lakorn you’re wrong—no lakorn writer has this level of creativity. And now we come to BK’s favorite sex scandal of 2018. Yes, ladies and gentlemen, it’s the case of the Thai fighter pilot arrested in New York for picking up a hooker but released thanks to his diplomatic immunity. Group Captain Rawin Thanomsingha—nickname “Hollywood”—found himself splashed across the New York Post on April 15, but it was all a misunderstanding, according to an Air Force spokesperson. He was just outside having a cigarette.

The year in THAI FINE DINING

“I don’t want the news about Prawit’s expensive watches to fade away, and for people to act like nothing ever happened.” Ekacha Hongkangwan, who tried to give deputy prime minister Gen. Prawit a cheap Seiko.

“When you modernize traditional cuisine, you should study it deeply. When you just look at the surface, food loses its soul.” Bongchok “Bee” Satongun Who was named “Asia’s Best Female Chef” at Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2018

12/14/18 3:14 PM

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 21, 2018

Sornchai Upparamai Gram

Bennetty Mahakan Fort

Khaosan Road

The year in WOBBLY SOUFFLE PANCAKES A long, long time ago, in a year called 2015, there was a dessert named the cremeux, and it swept through Bangkok cafes like wildfire. Now though, there’s a new dessert-fad. It too has a French adjective for a name; and it too has never been made, eaten or even heard-of in France. We’re talking of course about Croquant Chou—long cream puffs covered in crunchy almonds that arrived from Japan and took over Siam Center. That was of course until Gram pancakes announced its opening in Siam Paragon. Not long after and the mall had its latest instance of queue-mania. And you know how the old saying goes: you wait years for a jiggly souffle pancakes specialist from Japan to open near you, and then two come along at once—cue the opening of Belle-Ville. But all was not pancakes and chou pastry from Japan. The British also released their post-Brexit export strategy in the shape of Ben’s softbake cookies, which were rivaled only by local brand David’s in their gooey awesomeness.

The year in LOST CULTURE What the BMA gives with one hand, they take with the other. So the merging of Chatuchak and Suan Rod Fai is going to create one super-park (TBF, we kinda thought of it like that already), but it also means we’re losing JJ Green night market. Major suck! Ditto in the Old Town, where the community that once lived at Mahakan Fort lost their almost 60-year dispute with the BMA. In July they were evicted in order to make way for a new public lawn that, well, no one really ever wanted. But

“I wouldn’t be so upset if I hadn’t had these experiences myself before. The men who govern Thailand only talk about one solution to sexual harassment: don’t dress sexy.” Cindy Sirinya Bishop, who started Thailand’s answer to #MeToo in her #DontTellMeHowToDress campaign.

CoverStory-BK#753-21Dec2018_3_NEW.indd 7

who cares that when bureaucracy’s in motion? 2018 was also the year when the long beleaguered Lido cinema finally bought the farm after 50 years entertaining Siam Square. (At least Scala remains safe, for now.) And not all was right across the road at the Bangkok Arts and Culture Centre, either. As the city readied itself for the start of Bangkok Art Biennale 2018, it emerged that the event’s foremost exhibition space, the BACC, was so heavily underfunded that they could barely pay the utility bills. The BMA called it the government’s fault, and the government didn’t have anything to say on the matter. Rumors now abound that it could even be turned into—the horror!—a co-working space. Stay tuned for 2019.

The year in OLD PEOPLE From an unboxing Youtube granny to an octogenarian indie group to the oldest Ikea employee in the world, Bangkok went old-person crazy in 2018. Don’t know what we’re talking about? Then you’re obviously not one of the 262,000 people who watched nonagenarian walking stick tester Pranee as she put products through their paces on Facebook. Or the one million people who watched gray-haired musos Bennetty jam their dreamy indie brand of rock. Or the many many Ikea shoppers who’ve had their returns taken by Sornchai Upparamai, who at age 71 began a new career working on the shop floor. All this had us asking: what’s next for the gray trend? Prune kakigori? EDM x Tai Chi in Lumphini Park? We can’t wait.

The year in STREET FOOD Of all the backpedaling and mixed messages that went around during the April 2017 “ban on street food,” chief BMA spokesperson Vallop Suwandee’s claims about Khaosan Road were among the biggest. First it was under threat, then it was being saved, and now, one year on, it looks like a shadow of its pad-Thai-and-spring-roll-festooned former self. The move followed a City Hall inspection in July 2018 that caused deputy governor Sakoltee Phattiyakul to declare the area overrun with vendors. It also contradicted earlier claims from BMA officials that Khaosan would be spared from citywide efforts to clear Bangkok’s streets of temporary vendors. Despite upset among dreadlocked tourists, some of the street’s business owners actually welcomed the move. “Khaosan Road became worse when they allowed unlicensed cocktail sellers to operate around 10 years ago,” one vendor explained to us. “I’ve been here all my life and I’m 50 years old. The tourists are quite different here now, they’re worse than before, they are trouble.” Take that!

“A restaurant is an expression of the chef who runs it. You have a different chef at the helm now. It’s not going to be the same restaurant.” Pim Techamuanivit, who took over as head chef at the still-one-star-Michelin Nahm.

The year in RAP BATTLES Instead of watching that “My Country’s Got” clip, Thai netizens should be looking at “commerce-related things.” That’s the verdict of Generalissimo, who predictably wasn’t buying into the hype for the rap track slamming four years of military rule. The video (45 million Youtube views and still rising) went viral when the artists, and their families, received threats of prosecution. The police have since backtracked and confirmed, nope, the video doesn’t break any rules. But Rap Against Dictatorship weren’t the only local hip-hop act to gain mad traction, yo. A teenager from Khlong Toey going by the rap name Elevenfinger (yup, he does have eleven fingers) broke the internet with his track “Klongtoey My City.”

“If I idolize someone I’m afraid that there’ll be some part of that artist’s influence on my work. I want to come up with music that is really based on me.” Peeralada “Pyra” Sukawat, whose Thai take on R&B soundtracked our year.

12/14/18 3:14 PM

cover | year in review

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 21, 2018

Cactus

Bangkok Biennial 2018

IconSiam

The year in MALLS We love Charoen Nakhon, we do. We also love the prospect of shopping at Apple and JD Sports by the river at IconSiam. But we also can’t help thinking that maybe, just maybe, the infrastructure promised for 2020 should have come first, the mall second. The luxury development expects to welcome 150,000 shoppers a day, and given the queues that have amassed at its free boat shuttle we’d say they’ve well achieved it. (Couldn’t someone maybe think about the infrastructure a little earlier next time?).

The year in HOT ‘HOODS Yen Akat’s newly opened rooftop bar, Cactus, takes its style cues from those sweeping, mid-century desert villas that L.A.’s rich and famous like to call home. That means succulents, rich woods and dusty firepits—no subway tiles or Edison bulbs. It’s also the perfect spot to take in what is without doubt the break-out neighborhood of 2018. As we watch the crowning touches get put on a big new community mall at the corner of Yen Akat and Nanglinchee, we can’t help but feel slightly smug at having last year called it one of Bangkok’s most up-and-coming ‘hoods. We’ll wipe the smile away when the traffic’s as bad as Thonglor and girls dressed in Milin are puking in front of our apartment building.

Richard Mille RM 030

The year in DOUBLE STANDARDS This year’s Chula-Thammasat game had something way more exciting to watch than the 1-1 draw that went down on the pitch. Thammasat once more proved which school has the political conscience with a float that took a not-soveiled swipe at Deputy PM and army hotshot Gen Prawit for his bitchin’ Richard Mille tourbillons and Rolex chronographs. Estimates put his entire collection of photographed wristwear at a cool US$1.2 million in potentially undeclared assets—so it was lucky for him he was just borrowing the watches from a dead friend. Meanwhile in Kanchanaburi, property tycoon Premchai Karnasuta was caught in the forest with the carcass of an endangered black leopard boiling in a nearby pot. No word yet on whether a successful conviction will come out of the ongoing court case, but the incident gave Bangkok its latest case of guerilla street art when black leopards started appearing on walls. Crossing the Indian Ocean, our plutocratic overlord’s offspring were also up to their tricks in London, with the son of a National Legislative Assembly member caught taking upshot phone snaps in Topshop.

The year in GENDER DIVERSITY In 2015, Thammasat University blazed a trail for equality by employing transgender academic Kath Khangpiboon as a lecturer. Yay Thammasat! Yay progress! Actually, no. They fired her not long after for posting to Instagram a photo of a lipstick shaped like a penis. Kath took them to court, and discovered this year (on Mar 8) that she’d won. And that wasn’t Bangkok’s only win for gender diversity. Kantana production house launching Thailand’s very own version of Drag Race, thus launching longtime BK drag favorite Pan Pan aka Pangina Heals to national stardom. SunSilk shampoo brand even released a commercial that treated transgender people as something better than the punchline to a bad joke. But only the beautiful ones who win contests like Drag Race. We guess it’s a step in the right direction when you have places like MT Rollin Club still opening. Here, communication between the ladies-only Victorian-era tea room and the Italian Art Decostyle gentlemen’s club is allowed strictly by letter only—oh, the good old days. Next we’ll be represented by a 95-percent male parliament and be banning women from our top police aca… oh, wait.

In-N-Out

The year in JUNK FOOD Did you spend two hours waiting in line back in March for the In-N-Out pop-up? We’re right with you. But, who doesn’t love a good fast-food franchise from abroad? (Chipotle! Won’t someone bring us Chipotle?!). News of In-N-Out’s pop-up diner came to light just 24 hours beforehand, and even then only due to a Facebook post by a little-known Sukhumvit Soi 10 bistro and wine bar called CY Cabin. We’ll have a bit more notice for Taco Bell Thailand, whose arrival is so close now we can almost taste the late-night regret. A recent advert for job applications inadvertently revealed the Tex-Mex giant’s first location to be MercuryVille, right off BTS Chidlom. Rumor has it that it will open either at the end of this year or very early next.

The year in BIENNALES By now we’ve just about worked out that the Bangkok Biennial is something completely different from the Bangkok Art Biennale, both of which have nothing to do with the Thailand Biennale that’s currently happening in, of all places, Krabi. While the first of the three, the anonymously-organized Bangkok Biennial, took the underground approach with 69 pavilions scattered across town and beyond, the corporate-backed Bangkok Art Biennale bagged itself a proper headline artist, by which we mean one who’s done a Louis Vuitton handbag collaboration. Those giant inflatable pumpkins hanging from the ceiling of CentralWorld are the brilliantly creative polkadot visions of Yayoi Kusama. She’s been joined, not only within the air-con confines of our malls, by pedigreed names like Abramovic, Elmgreen and Dragset, Basquiat—oh, and some local names too. Did someone say, “Venice of the East?”

CoverStory-BK#753-21Dec2018_3_NEW.indd 8

12/14/18 3:14 PM

P.9 BKK EDM.indd 2

12/13/18 4:34 PM

cover | year in review

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 21, 2018

2018 was undoubtedly a big one for live music in Bangkok. There were bumper new festivals (shoutout to Maho Rasop), an increasing proliferation of concerts taking place in shopping malls (weird, but OK...), and enough big-name visitors (The Weeknd, Katy Perry, Sam Smith, Alicia Keys, The Killers) to prove Bangkok has never had more pulling power. BNK48 Terminal 2 at Suvarnabhumi Airport

Elevenfinger

5. JULIE BYRNE AT JAM FEBRUARY The American folk singer, whose 2017 album Not Even Happiness scooped mentions in year-end lists from Pitchfork to the Guardian, managed to pack out Jam cafe on a sultry February evening. All present (including the bar’s pair of adorable dogs) were reduced to silence by Byrne’s sparsely fingerpicked acoustic guitar and the awkward stage talk. JULY

4. RASMEE AT RUSSELUNO CAFE

The Chiang Mai-based artist, whose Isan Soul EP fuses molam (northeastern Thai funk music) with soul and blues, is worth checking out at every opportunity. Her July show with a full band at the small but party-friendly Russeluno Cafe was a lesson in working the room. 3. FOUR TET AT SIWILAI CITY CLUB

The year in PISSED OFF ARCHITECTS

Across an hour-and-a-half set of slow-grooving tracks, the British producer—with a push of a button here and a twiddle of a knob there—worked his percussive magic on a Friday night crowd who might typically draw the line at clubbing in a mall.

First, SA Group wins the bid to build Suvarnabhumi’s muchanticipated second terminal. Then, SA gets disqualified and the project goes to celebrated architect and wavy-haired god of slowlife culture Duangrit Bunnag. Next, architectural bloggers everywhere call “copycat” on his building. Then, the Engineering Institute of Thailand comes out saying the whole thing could go up in flames. And that’s not the end of the saga for Terminal 2. Our architect hero has since come out punching, telling the EIT he’s going to sue over their allegations. Someone bring the popcorn.

The year in BNK48 After the 48-member super-girl-group’s first ever live concert overshadowed the concurrent arrest of pro-democracy protestors back in March, they’ve been venturing ever deeper into the art of political distraction. Who needs an election when we’ve had the “BNK48 least-favorite member” vote to focus on? Come to think of it, since the senate race pulled in less than a quarter of the expected applications, couldn’t BNK just make up the numbers? The group’s leader, Cherprang Areekul, has already been summoned by Prayuth this year in a thinly veiled attempt to garner youth support and boost ratings for Returning Happiness to the People. Despite protestors labeling her a “detergent for dictatorship,” the numbers show that her relentlessly loyal otaku fan base might just follow the junta poster girl wherever she may go. Indeed, the General could do with some support against those pesky social media trolls, and if he ever gets in a fix like, say, someone insulting his work or doctoring a dildo into his picture, her fans are just the ones to have on side. Back in February, they rallied behind BNK48 after The Matter writer Siripoj Laomanacharoen dared to write that their music video was “kinda crap,” resulting in an epic take down that dredged up his girlfriend-beating past. At least January’s Senbatsu General Election should tide us over until the real thing, when we’ll find out whether these popular figures with their pretty faces really can save our junta leader’s reputation.

CoverStory-BK#753-21Dec2018_3_NEW.indd 10

NOVEMBER

MAY

Thanathorn “Aek” Juangroongruangkit

The year in POPULISTS Maybe, there will come a time when Bangkok doesn’t need a) generals, b) aristocrats, or c) billionaires to be its political saviors—but not yet. 2018’s breakthrough new politician was Thanathorn “Aek” Juangroongruangkit, the son of the president and COO of manufacturing giant Thai Summit Group, of which he was a vice president until becoming leader of the new Future Forward Party. Aek’s agenda includes dismantling the juntaapproved constitution, so needless to say he’s not made many friends in green uniforms. In fact, he’s already up against a computer crimes charge. Also running onto the political playing field of 2018 was Abhisit’s nephew, Parit “Itim” Wacharasindhu, who at the age of 25 wants to push the Democrats down a progressive new path—as directed by an Oxford graduate from an established political dynasty. But perhaps the year’s most unlikely politician was Chumpol “Jung” Krootkaew, a former IT consultant for the NACC, whose Klang (moderate) party plans on using tech and data to form all his policies.

2. KHRUANGBIN AT EMQUARTIER

“Jimi Hendrix-esque,” “soundtrack to a Quentin Tarantino film that doesn’t exist,”“Mediterranean ‘70s porn movie music”—all these comparisons have been applied to Khruangbin. Just as hypnotic as the music was the synchronized gyrating of bassist Laura Lee and guitarist Mark Speer. 1. ANDERSON .PAAK AND THE FREE NATIONALS AT VOICE SPACE

JULY

Few gigs this year united music subcultures quite like Mr. .Paak, whose energetic mix of sociopolitical rap. and full band jamming had Bangkok’s hip-hop, indie and electronic heads dancing like no tomorrow. Hopping from drum kit to speaker stack, the California-hailing rapper showed he has the Prince-level work ethic to match the Prince-level virtuoisic talent as he paced through his set. Touring bands, you have a new high-water mark.

12/14/18 3:14 PM

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 21, 2018

SPARKLING NEW YEAR CELEBRATIONS AT THE OKURA PRESTIGE BANGKOK

31 December 2018 Celebrate the New Year with family and friends at The Okura Prestige Bangkok and enjoy gourmet international cuisine, live entertainment, and breathtaking views of Bangkok. Up & Above welcomes 2019 with a New Yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Eve Dinner Buffet, while Yamazato offers authentic Japanese Gozen lunch, Kaiseki dinner and Teppanyaki menus. Over at Michelin-starred restaurant Elements we are serving an indulgent 7-course set dinner of signature French cuisine with Japanese influences.

Contact 02 687 9000 for more details or email fbreservations@okurabangkok.com

Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Road, Bangkok 10330 T. 02 687 9000 F. 02 687 9001 E. info@okurabangkok.com okurabangkok.com facebook.com/theokuraprestigebangkok

P.11 Sofitel.indd 11

12/14/18 3:05 PM

hit list | 20 news reasons to love bangkok

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 21, 2018

Nine new BTS Green Line stations now open to public

TRANSPORT

Bangkokians, there is life after Sam Rong after all. The elevated BTS Green Line extension from Bearing to Samut Prakan is finally operational, offering free rides for commuters until Apr 16 next year—it’s like Christmas came early! The 13-kilometer extension is connected with the BTS Skytrain’s Sukhumvit Line, or the Green Line, and covers nine stations: Samrong, Pu Chao, Chang Erawan, Royal Thai Naval Academy, Pak Nam, Srinagarindra, Phraek Sa, Sai Luat and Kheha. But there’s just one tiny catch: it’s not exactly one smooth ride to Kheha town. To get to the new stations, you have to change trains at Samrong; with that said, according to Bangkok governor Aswin Kwanmuang, the ride from Bearing to Kheha station in Samut Prakan province should take only about 20 minutes. Around 60,000 people are expected to use the service in the first year—a number that’s predicted to rise to 100,000 the following year. In addition, a 16stop extension is also under construction beyond Mo Chit station, heading north.

NUMEROLOGY

Show DC Arena, Bangkok’s “largest outdoor arena” is now open—here are the deets: B120

million

The cost to build the large-scale arena

31,790

sq meters The total area this venue takes up

90,000 Show DC’s new total capacity, including Oasis Arena (25,000) and Show DC Garden (5,000)

60,000 The new arena’s solo capacity

1,000 The number of parking spaces available

HitlistShopping-BK#753-28DEC18-3_New.indd 12

WELLNESS

TATTOOS

SMARTPHONES

02 This new Chao Phraya

03 Check out Thonglor’s

04 Motorola’s latest

cruise combines yoga and breakfast

new trippy boutique tattoo studio

offering is a budget spin on the iPhone XR

Kickstart your Saturday with two hours of light yoga on the Chao Phraya River followed by a healthy breakfast feast. It all takes place on the Anantara Riverside hotel’s gorgeous teakwood river boat as part of a new health program. The morning begins with yoga as the boat makes its way up to Wat Arun, where it does a U-turn that signifies breakfast time—a spread of granola, yogurt, croissants, wholegrain breads and assorted fruits, plus vegetables and greens for juicing. Every Saturday from 8-10am at B2,950 per person. Call 02-476-0022 to reserve a place.

The people behind Charoenkrung’s Common Ground tattoo studio are taking their custom artwork skills to a second home on Thonglor. At The Golden Triangle, you’ll find five resident artists versed in trippy graphic designs, Hindu motifs and Indian flower garlands. Prices start at B2,000 for walk-ins and small tattoos, and B3,000-5,000 for medium tattoos. For bigger and more complex pieces, expect to pay B3,000/hour. Also keep an eye on their Facebook for visiting international guest artists. 3/F, Black Amber Social Club, Thonglor Soi 6, 02-073-9161. Open Fri-Sun 1pm-8pm.

What: Motorola One Price: B7,990 Why? If you can get by without retina-popping screen resolution and the latest in camera tech, then consider saving B20,000 on your next smartphone with this new offering from Motorola. For a fraction of the iPhone XR’s price you get similar clean lines, a 5.9-inch display, dual rear cameras and a notch—plus Google’s fast, fluid Android One software, meaning guaranteed updates from Google for years to come. Other highlights include unlimited Google photo storage, a 3,000mAh battery and six hours of battery life in just 15 minutes of charging.

Shop Talk How to spend your hardearned baht.

BUY IT AESOP “ATLAS OF ATTRACTION” GIFT KITS 2018/2019 A collaboration with Dutch designer Iris Van Herpen, these make beautiful Christmas gifts (from B2,100).

BIN IT SUPER TINY SUNGLASSES Honestly, do they even block out the sun?

BARGAIN HAY SIX-WEEKS CHRISTMAS SALE The Danish stationery and furniture brand is offering 30-percent off different items each week through Jan 13, plus free gift wrapping for purchases over B500. See www. fb.com/norserepublics for updates.

12/14/18 3:08 PM

hit list | calendar Cr: Nik Cyclist

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 21, 2018

Your essential guide to celebrating New Year’s Eve in Bangkok

DANCE DANCE DANCE

White Party

One of the biggest gay parties of the year runs for four days. Dec 28, 30, 31, 7pm. GMM Live House, 8/F CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-101-6881; Dec 29, 3-7pm. Hi-So Rooftop Bar, 29-30/F, So Sofitel Bangkok, North Sathorn Rd., 02-624-0000; B2,500-4,000 at whitepartybangkok.com.

Beam NYE 2019

Live sets from hip-hop DJs Southside, Ralphy.wav and more. Dec 31, 9pm. Beam, 1/F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-392-7750. B700-800 via Ticketmelon, or B900 on the door (includes 1 drink).

All That Glitters is Gold!

Live jazz from Wombat band and Mr. Haze feat. Isaac. Dec 31, 8pm. The Iron Fairies, 394 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 099-9181600. Free. GOING UNDERGROUND

Space Time x Soulbar x Whiteline

Three floors of live bands and DJs curated by Bangkok’s favorite soul hub and underground bar. Dec 31, 9pm. Whiteline, Silom Soi 8, 087-061-1117. Free.

Star Wax Mag Take Over!

Sip on yadong to jazz and funk beats from France’s DJ Coshmar and DJ Ness. Dec 31, 9pm. Studio Lam, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02261-6661. B200.

Calendar#753-21Dec2018.indd 13

New Year’s Eve

A party in three zones, covering techno, house and chillout. Dec 31, 10pm. Mustache Bar, 544/5 Ratchadaphisek Soi 7, 081-844-7080. B500.

Superheros

Dress up as a superhero for the chance to win a two-night stay at Sheraton Okinawa Sunmarina Resort in Japan. Dec 31, 7pm. The Drunken Leprechaun, 4 Sukhumvit Soi 15, 02-309-3255. Free. UP ON THE ROOF

Wolf of Sukhumvit

Go out like a baller with free-flow booze 26 floors above Asoke. Dec 31, 5pm. Sky On 20, 26/F, Novotel Bangkok Hotel, 19/9 Sukhumvit Soi 20, 02-009-4999. B2,500100,000.

Cocktail En Rouge

Rooftop celebration featuring four hours of free-flow (6-10pm). Dec 31. RedSquare Rooftop Bar, 25/F, 27 Soi Sukhumvit Soi 4, 02-667-5808. B2,900.

In The Sky

A two-floor, three-zone rooftop party featuring 15 DJs, a saxophonist and dancers. Dec 31, 7pm. Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park, 199 Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-059-5555. B1,490 advance or 2,490 on the door (includes 3 drinks).

Cactus NYE Party

Yen Akat’s hip bar promises indulgent French oysters, smoked salmon and more with a rooftop bonfire. Dec 31, 7pm. Cactus, 15 Yen Akat Rd., 083-437-3515; 02249-1451. Free.

NIGHTLIFE

A Night in The Glitzy City

Countdown with 26th-floor views over the river. Dec 31, 7:30pm. Attitude, 26/F, Avani Riverside, 257 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-4319100. From B2,019, including a glass of Champagne, to B28,019, including a fourcourse set menu for two and a bottle of Billecart-Salmon Champagne.

Countdown Celebration

Not one but three firework shows, with live streams from Tokyo (10pm), Hong Kong (11pm) and the real thing at midnight. Dec 31, 5pm. The Sky Terrace & Crystal Box, 19-20/F, Gaysorn Urban Village, 127 Gaysorn Tower, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-2533999. B1,700 via bit.ly/2QsBVoL (includes welcome drink) or B2,000 on the door.

Beat The Heat

DJs Groove, Kori Mafi and Chazin on The Westin Grande’s 7th-floor open-air bar with a pool. Dec 31, 9pm. 7/F, The Westin Grande Sukhumvit, 259, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-207-8000. B999 in advance at goo. gl/RVR5Jc, or B1,300 on the door (includes 1 drink). START EARLY

The Commons

Party from the afternoon onwards with live DJ sets and bands, food vendors and plenty of drinks. Dec 31, 1pm. The Commons, 335 Thonglor Soi 17. Free.

27, 9pm. Foojohn Building, 831 Charoen Krung Soi 31, 085-527-3511. Free.

ART

DUNE AT SUSIE Q Beats from the French electronic-slash-hip-hop music producer and DJ. Dec 21, 9pm. Susie Q, 108, 5-6 Khaosan Rd., 02-629-2474. Free.

FIREWORK EXTRAVAGANZAS

RAINFOREST REFORESTATION A night of techno with Nathan Jonson, Dan Buri and Alex Joy. Dec 21, 10pm. Glow, 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 086-6143355. B250 includes 1 drink.

GIRLS BY LUO YANG An intimate photograph series unpacking Chinese femininity. Through Dec 22. RDX Offsite, OHK Building, 5/F, 839 Charoenkrung Soi 31. Open daily 3-10pm. Woof Pack, 1/3-9 Sala Daeng Soi 1, 089-826-2299. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm.

BANGKOK POETRY: THE FIRE, WHICH TIME? The open-mic poetry and spoken-word event returns. To perform, contact wesleylawrencehsu@gmail.com. Dec 21, 7pm. WTF Gallery & Cafe, 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-6626246. Free.

ART & PASSION: WOOD CUT BY MONTHIAN YANGTHONG The Thai artist showcases ancient woodcut printing techniques. Through Dec 31. YuYuan Art & Antique, 248 Chiangmai Rd., 094-554-8883. Free.

BEAT & BEYOND #6: RICARDO VILLALOBOS A night with the famed Chilean-German techno icon. Dec 22, 9pm. Live Arena, RCA, Rama 9 Rd. B850 on Ticketmelon.

FELIPE PANTONE W3-DIMENSIONAL & CURRENT WORK EXHIBITION The Argentinian-Spanish artist displays his trippy graffiti works. Through Jan 6. Siam Center, G/F, 989 Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. Free.

WESTIN POOL PARTY XMAS SPECIAL A pre-Christmas pool party with after party at Levels. Dec 22, 1-9pm. The Westin Grande Sukhumvit, 259 Sukhumvit Rd, 02-207-8000. B400 (includes one drink at The Westin and two at Levels).

HOW ‘YE DOING? Swedish-born artist Kimmo Kauko decodes topical issues through opinion-dividing celeb Kanye West. Through Jan 13. Jam, Charoen Rat Soi 1, 089889-8059. Free.

DAN BURI INVITES DILEE D The rising Sri Lankan techno DJ and producer takes over underground club. Dec 22, 10pm. Mustache Bar, 544/5 Ratchadaphisek Soi 7, 081-8447080. Free before midnight, B250 after (includes one drink).

REMINISCENCE OF TURKEY Thavorn Ko-udomvit showcases Turkey’s iconic architecture in acrylics. Through Jan 20. Ardel Gallery of Modern Art, Belle Ville, 99/45 Borommarachonnanee Rd., 02-422-2092. Free.

CHRISTMAS COTTON CANDY PARTY Celebrate Christmas with local DJs spinning the sweetest tunes. Dec 25, 9pm. Maggie Choo’s, L/F, Hotel Novotel Bangkok Fenix Silom, 320 Silom Rd., 091-772-2144. Free.

MARKETS

SUNJU HARGUN (ALL NIGHT LONG) One of Bangkok’s best techno DJs plays all evening. Dec 27, 9:30pm. Beam, 1/F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-392-7750. Free.

K VILLAGE CHRISTMAS MARKET 2018 Shop for organic food and handmade Christmas products with performances from live bands. Dec 21-25, 11am10pm. K Village, 93, 95 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-9919. Free. AMERICAN SWAP MEET Bring your classic and valuable goodies to sell or trade at a night market. Dec 22, 4pm. Train Night Market Srinakarin, Srinagarindra Soi 51. Free.

MUSTACHE TAKEOVER FEAT. SVEN VATH Germany’s world-class techno legend with support from Kolour’s ATMA. Jan 5, 9pm. Live Arena, RCA Rd. B800 via Eventpop or B1,000 on the door.

LIVE MUSIC MODERN DOG X’MAS Enjoy a performance from the beloved Thai rock band formed in 1992. Dec 25, 6pm. Reunion Social Gathering Bar & Bistro, Thonglor Soi 10, 093-6305769. Free. ORGANIC BAND FEAT. GRACE The Filipino jazz singer is accompanied by a live band. Dec

GIFTMAS MARKET HOME & LIFESTYLE Shop chic home and garden decorations and useful gadgets. Through Dec 27. CentralPlaza Grand Rama 9, 9/8-9 Ratchadaphisek Rd., 02-103-5999. Free. GIFTMAS MARKET SWEET & BAKERY Plenty of homemade desserts—buy as a gift of just chow it yourself. Dec 27-Jan 2. CentralPlaza Rama 3, 79/3 Ratchadaphisek Rd., 02-6795555. Free.

12/14/18 3:34 PM

P.14-15 Citi Bank DPS.indd 2

12/13/18 12:25 PM

travel | hot hotels

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 21, 2018

Cape Fahn Hotel

Sala Samui Chaweng Beach Resort

Check-in List

Thailand’s best new hotels of 2018. By Kankanok Wichiantanon Chiang Mai

Hua Hin

Chantra Khiri Chalet Resort

Movenpick Asara Resort & Spa Hua Hin

This all-villa 9,600-sq-meter resort offers panoramic views from its hilltop perch, just a short drive from Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. Decked out in Lanna style with dusky teakwood, multi-tiered roofs and spacious balconies offering stunning forest views, the twostory villas (from B4,375) are centered around a man-made waterfall, while the resort’s elegant Thai restaurant opens out onto a hillside swimming pool. 49 Moo 3, Baan Pong, Hangdong, 081-802-0666. www.chantrakhirichalet.com

Elliebum Boutique Hotel In the city center, this colonial-style mansion boasts just 12 rooms. The minimalist interiors mix clean whites and lacquered blond wood flooring, saving all the fuss for the gloriously palatial gold-tiled bathrooms with their stencil-patterned appliances. Limited space means there’s no gym or spa, but they do have a Western-leaning restaurant onsite. Rates start roughly at B1,500 a night. 114/3-5 Rachamankha Rd., 090-318-6429. goo.gl/pcqEV9

Onsen at Moncham Bringing Japanese bathing to the peaceful rolling green hills of Moncham, this highend retreat abounds in minimalist blondwood and bamboo elegance. Each stay in the 16 rooms and suites (from B5,220/ night) grants access to a range of therapeutic pools and private bathtubs capable of increasing your blood flow and rejuvenating your skin. A well-stocked bar, lakeside Thai-Japanese restaurant, gym and spa complete the list of facilities. 293 Moo 2, Pong Yaeng, Mae Rim, 053-111-606. www.onsenmoncham.com

Taking over the former Asara Villa & Suite, this resort’s 96 private suites and pool villas (from B6,894/night) are homey yet modern with neutral tones, wood accents and Thai patterns. Go all out with the luxurious 400-sq-meter beachfront villa, comprising three pavilions, two bedrooms, its own private beach area and a pool (B19,989/night). Thai and French dining is available onsite, alongside two large pools and a gym. 53 Hua Hin Soi 5, 032-520-777. goo.gl/RLgMka

Holiday Inn Vana Nava Hua Hin Enjoy a playcation at this 300-room, family-friendly resort inside Vana Nava Hua Hin Water Park, where unlimited access means you can wake up with a ride on Abyss (Thailand’s largest water slide) or float down the Lazy River. To relax, there’s a resort spa, a 26th-floor pool bar and a rooftop bar with a glass-bottomed deck, while the beach is just 10-minutes’ walk or a short free shuttle ride away. Prices from B2,690/night. 129/129 Petchkasem Rd., 032-809-999. vananavahuahin.holidayinnresorts.com

Chocolate Box With this new boutique hotel, you can stay at Hua Hin’s Seenspace mall all night. The hotel’s 23 rooms come in three flavors: White Chocolate (for two, B5,700), Milk Chocolate (for four, B7,800) and Dark Chocolate (for six, B9,900). Size aside, the rooms are fashioned from the same mold, each decorated in a modern, minimalist style and every shade of gray for a soothing vibe. Is there chocolate involved? Maybe. 13/14 Huahin Soi 35, 092-271-7448. www.enjoychocolatebox.com

TravelFeature-BK#753-28Dec2018-3.indd 16

Movenpick Asara Resort & Spa Hua Hin

Korat

Samui

Te Mata Glamping

Cape Fahn Hotel

Elevated high above the ground with a spacious terrace area on all sides, this spot’s singular, exquisite “tent” is equipped with a hotel-like bathroom and spacious living area. You can even roam the surrounding 3,200 sq meters of green fields on an ATV or bicycle. The rates depend on the number of guests: from B8,000/ night (two to three people), B14,000 (for four to six) and B22,000 (seven plus).

The Cape & Kantary chain’s super-sleek resort takes over a small private island just a little offshore of Koh Samui’s Choeng Mon Beach. Wooden construction, high ceilings, earthy tones and splashes of blue feature in the 22 villas—opt for the hilltop Ocean View Pool Villa, which opens out to a picture-perfect private plunge pool overlooking the sea (from B24,431 per night). Enjoy “Bistronomic” fine-dining at The Crest or bob in the pool while watching a Hollywood movie at the weekly Moonlight Cinema.

97 Moo 6, Parkchong, 061-662-6615. www.temataglamping.com

Phuket BaBa Beach Club Sri Panwa joins the beach club craze on Natai Beach with this luxurious 42-rai opening. There’s a modish energy to the mix of Sino-Portuguese-inspired decor in the 16 villas and suites (B18,000/night), enlivened by royal blues and splashes of orange. In the middle of it all, the Baba Bar stands primed for beach parties with DJs flown in from around the world. 88 Moo 5 Khok Kloi, Takua Thung, 076-429388. www.bababeachclub.com

Xinlor House Within an unassuming townhouse in the Old Town, head past rows of vibrant green potted plants and you’ll find an exclusive three guest rooms, each with a fresh white and blue color scheme (from B1,500). The Suite Room (B3,000) comes with a guest room, bathtub and balcony—ideal for observing the surrounding Indo-Chinese architecture and local goings on. 78 Dibuk Rd., 081-891-7733. www.fb.com/xinlorhouse

Cachet Resort Dewa Phuket Breathing new life into the former Dewa Phuket Resort is the first Thailand opening from this youthful, affordable group. On Nai Yang Beach, backed by Sirinat National Park, Cachet is a sleek looking place dominated by black marble, polished concrete floors and deep mahogany. Rates start at B3,200/night.

24/269 Moo 5, Bophut, 077-602-301. www.capefahnhotel.com

Sala Samui Chaweng Beach Resort A world of warm woods and heavenly whites, every room (from around B14,493) at this beachside resort comes with its own pool, in addition to tasteful touches like circular bathtubs (very onsen-looking) and lunar-referencing light installations. The 52 completed villas and suites are set to be joined by 82 more by next year, as well as a spa, gym, hidden oasis swimming pool and beachfront restaurant primed for sunset. 99/10 Moo 2, Chaweng Beach, 077-905-888. www.salahospitality.com/chaweng

Ritz-Carlton Koh Samui Turning a former coconut plantation into 175 luxurious suites and pool villas, this hotel vies for the island’s hottest new opening. Rooms (from B10,959) come decked out in a tasteful blend of neutral tones and natural stone, offering stunning views of Samui’s coastline, as well as access to two private beaches, the resort’s beachfront pool, spa pavilions, six dining outlets and an artificial reef. 9/123 Moo 5, Bophut, 077-915-777. www.ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/koh-samui

65 Moo 1, Tambon Sakoo, 076-372-300. www.cachetphuketdewa.com

12/14/18 10:06 AM

travel | news

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 21, 2018

PHETCHABUN

07 Go glamping in

the mountains at this stunning new spot

Kick back in a balcony Jacuzzi at this five-star revamp

LAOS

MYANMAR

08 Paste opens in laid-

09 Luxury tent-like

Asia’s Best Female Chef Bongkoch “Bee” Satongun has unveiled her new venture: Paste Laos, situated in Luang Prabang’s riverside boutique hotel The Apsara. Creative plantfocused Lao dishes take over from the Thaicentric menu of Bangkok, featuring over 100 different wild ingredients that have been cured, pickled and fermented. The menu is inspired by the traditional early 20th-century recipes of Lao royal chef Phia Sing, with tasting menus starting from around B1,465 per person as well as a la carte options. In a city where fine-dining culture is largely yet to be cultivated, this could be the start of something truly special.

Take a 1.5-hour private boat ride from Kawthaung in southern Myanmar and you’ll reach Awei Pila (aweipila.com), a new luxury resort looking to capitalize on the remote Mergui islands. Open only from Jun-Sep, this luxurious little collection of 24 tent-like AC villas sits on the island of Pila, which as well as being home to a small local fishing village has over 10 remote beaches. High ceilings, natural materials and an indoor-outdoor design make Awei Pila the epitome of barefoot luxe. Right now, all-inclusive packages start at B24,711 a night.

back city of Luang Prabang

PHUKET

Just in time to welcome the year-end holidays, the five-star U Zenmaya Phuket (www. uhotelsresorts.com/uzenmayaphuket) is making a comeback with its new refreshingly modern vibe. Sino-Portuguese influences—ceramic blue tiles, polished concrete floors, deep mahogany elements—can be seen in the spacious rooms, each of which comes with a king-sized bed, a Jacuzzi and a balcony overlooking the quiet Kalim beach, just a little north of Patong (rates start at B2,339 a night). Other facilities include an oceanview lounge, romantic cliffside restaurant and bar, fully equipped gym, a library and a spa with five treatment rooms.

Head up north and into nature this winter at Khaokho’s latest glamping spot The Campville (www.fb.com/thacampvillekhaokho). Here, strings of fairy lights encircle the 63 safari-style tents, which come with sizable mattresses capable of accommodating either two (B1,500/night) or four (B2,500/night) guests. There’s no AC, but fortunately temperatures in this mountainous part of Phetchabun get as low as 20 degrees Celsius during the winter time. An a la carte menu is available for breakfast and, come evening, guests are encouraged to come together in the communal field area to enjoy live music while barbecuing their own dinner. With gorgeous views over the surrounding hills and twinkling lights hanging overhead, it’s rather romantic, too.

villas on a secluded Andaman Sea island

A Taste of Home in Bangkok The new Patissez cafe is Bangkok’s answer to all kinds of comfort food dreams What started as a humble, family-owned business in Canberra Australia has turned into something so much bigger. The famed Patissez cafe is now in Bangkok! Specializing in shakes, all kinds of comfort food, and waffles that come in different flavors and are freshly made using syrup that they mix together from scratch, eating at Patissez feels like spending evenings with friends around the dinner table—exactly as it should. Try their latest standout dishes, such as the smashed avocado on toasted sourdough with burrata cheese, or the delicious French toast, which is homemade and topped with fresh mango and saffron mango sauce.

TravelNews-BK#753-28Dec2018-3.indd 17

3/F, CentralWorld (in front of Zen), 095-869-7396, 089-833-3053. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Chidlom

12/13/18 5:37 PM

food & drink | news

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 21, 2018

HOT OFF THE PASS

Notes from the Bangkok food scene

Skip the months-long waitlist with Masato’s mysterious sushi hideout REAPING REWARDS Daniel Thaiger has announced a new branch due to open on Siem Reap walking street by January, bringing Bangkok’s favorite no-nonsense burgers to the weary Angkor Wat masses.

WALK, DON’T RUN

If you’ve ever attempted to book a table at Sushi Masato, you’ll know it’s nigh on impossible unless you’re willing to clear your diary way into the future. Well, here’s some good news: the secretive Sushi & Bar Masato has opened above the omakase hot spot and it’s all about walk-ins. From the simple Japanese-style wood bar, Japanese-inflected cocktails like the Shisho Mojito (B350) are served, while Masato’s famous sushi can be ordered from downstairs direct to the bar, starting at B200/piece and ranging from around B1,200-2,200 for five to 10 pieces. 3/22 Soi Sawasdee 1, Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-040-0015.

The restaurant at Masato

Soulbar on Charoenkrung

80/20 VISION It’s been a long few months without our favorite hipster underdog, but thankfully 80/20 is back, bigger and better than ever before. How about ditching the roast dinner for contemporary Thai (B3,000 for nine courses) this New Year?

Rabbit Hole

FUNKY TOWN

THAT’S THE SPIRIT

END OF AN ERA

11 Soulbar roars back to life on Silom

12 This new Thai rice spirit is turning heads

13 Quince has moved, leaving a new venture in its wake

Talad Noi’s raucous live music bar has found new digs—for the next few months at least—with a popup on the ground floor of Silom’s Whiteline. The bar bid farewell to its original cramped Charoenkrung shop-house back in August. A relaunch party on Dec 19 saw the return of the bar’s signature live get-up-and-dance music, with decor a mix of Soulbar’s junkyard chic style and Whiteline’s minimalist vibes. As for future lineups, more “outsider bands” and tribute parties dedicated to specific big-name artists are promised, as well as a New Year’s Eve party featuring three floors of live music. Whiteline, Silom Soi 8, 087-061-1117.

Spotted recently on the shelves of Bangkok’s hippest bars: Lanna, a new 100-percent Thai rice spirit. The bottle is a collaborative effort between South Asia Distillers—a Singapore-Thai collective made up of bartending talents including Supawit “Palm” Muttarattana of Vesper/Backstage, Suwincha “Cha Cha” Singsuwan of Rabbit Hole and Natakorn “Thumb” Changrew Kaijin—and decade-old Chiang Mai-based distillery Edelbrand. A blend of jasmine and sticky rice is triple distilled in a copper pot on low heat for a crisp, floral flavor. It’s available at the aforementioned bars (B1,750/700ml, 40% ABV), as well as Thalassa, IconSiam’s Thai spirit bar.

Quince has left its Sukhumvit Soi 45 party nook for a new, more demure, multi-story venue beside Central Embassy. Taking on a charming 1970s home, the restaurant’s menu will shift in line with their buzzing Saigon branch, where woodfired ovens and a charcoal grill take center stage in dishes like barbecue octopus with Jerusalem artichoke, and wood-roasted yellow coquelet. Stay tuned. Meanwhile, its former space is now FourtyFive Bar & Kitchen, which promises a high energy vibe in fitting with neighboring Sing Sing Theater and Iron Balls. Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-662-4478. Open daily 11:30am-midnight.

LUNCHTIME LARKS Former night owls Ocken and Suhring have each announced they’ll be venturing into daytime opening hours. Ocken has launched a new brunch menu, available Sat-Sun 10:30am-2:30pm, when you can ditch Macca’s for an “OcMuffin” (B260), while Suhring’s new set lunch menu (from B3,600) rolls out on Saturdays and Sundays.

YOU SAID WHAT?

FB reacts to BK’s sexiest male chefs roundup

F&DNewsBK#753-28DEC18-3.indd 18

“How about one on sexiest female chefs or would that be sexist / objectifying women?” DAVE MILLIGAN

“BK,You forgot the sexiest of the sexiest chefs! Everyone.. I give you Matthew Fischer!”

“Must be the end of the month, BK ran out of printing anything news worthy.”

FATTY’S BAR & DINER NOMINATES ITS CHEF FOR INCLUSION

NIGEL JOEY LEGGETT

12/13/18 5:39 PM

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 21, 2018

INTERN WITH US! (MARKETING, EDITORIAL, ART AND VIDEO DEPARTMENTS.) You must be at least 18-years-old You must send in a cover letter and resume. Specify which department you are applying for.

Open to Thai and foreign nationals Internships are full-time, unpaid and last 3 months.

Candidates should be fluent in both Thai and English. Send your resume and a cover letter to jobs@asia-city.co.th

P.19 Mode.indd 19

12/14/18 4:26 PM

food & drink | open doors

14 Forget Tex-Mex, La Lupita is the real deal The buzz: The first Mexican restaurant to hit Sathorn is already thriving thanks to its real-deal Mexican food—not a burrito or hard taco shell in sight. The decor: Mexico’s vibrant culture hits you as soon as you reach the stairs, from the mariachi background music to the sizzling sounds coming from the open kitchen. Bright pink and yellow walls dotted with wooden crosses and old photographs lead up to a colorful hand-painted mural featuring Latin-inspired art. Mexican sarape pillows line the banquette seating, while tables are adorned with fun touches like skulls, bandana napkins, candles and little daily-changing trinkets. The food: Sergio Velazquez heads up a team of talented Mexican and Venezuelan chefs for a menu that proudly rejects Tex-Mex, giving a nod instead to bordering Latino countries. Start with the Ceviche Acapulco (B220), a bright and fresh dish of marinated fish with tomato, avocado and a touch of sourness. Get a taste of the creamy guacamole in the signature flank steak Taco de Suadero (B190), or for something a little different, the crisp exterior and soft interior of the Venezuelan Arepas (corn cakes filled with

NN-BK#753-21DEC18_NEW.indd 20

chicken, meat or veggies, B220) will have you hooked. Don’t leave without something sweet, like the classic Concha con Chocolate (spiced Oaxaca hot chocolate served with a sweet pastry, B100) or the indulgent Tres Leches de Cajeta (B140)—sponge cake soaked in three types of milk, topped with strawberries and homemade caramel. The drinks: An ice-cold Tempus Dorada (Mexican golden ale, B220) or a classic Michelada (beer made with lime juice and spices, B170) makes for a light and refreshing accompaniment, while you can’t go wrong with a traditional Margarita (B265). Finish off by browsing the continuously updated list of tequilas and mezcals. Why we’d go back: With tacos that melt in your mouth, the creamiest guacamole in town, fun music and a dizzying list of tequilas and mezcals, this is our new go-to for a night out with friends. Megan Leon 2/F, Revolucion, 50 Sathorn Soi 10, 02-235-4822. Open daily 6:30pm-midnight.

12/14/18 3:22 PM

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 21, 2018

Plu

NEW AND NOTED

15 Classic Thai tastes meet modern style on Suan Plu

16 Siam Center welcomes a new, more refined dessert spot

17 This new grocery store is a godsend for health-freaks

TABLE TALK

Busy, tropical wallpaper, a striking bright orange sofa and Art Deco-style bronze light fixtures complete the look at Plu (3 Soi Phra Pinnini, Suan Plu Rd., 062-642-2222), Suan Plu’s cozy new Thai dining spot. Set in a standalone building surrounded by greenery and a wooden deck—perfect for alfresco dining—classic Thai flavors rule in dishes like the 48-hour-braised pork belly and soft boiled egg with five-spiced soup (B280) and the fried smoked duck breast with chili and garlic (B220). Pair your meal with a sweet Sanuk mocktail (B180), which mixes watermelon, chocolate cookies, lime, rosemary and passion fruit Bangkok Soda.

Siam Center’s Mr. Jones’ Orphanage is no more, making way for a new, more refined dessert cafe in the form of Maison Claris (Siam Center, 989 Rama 1 Rd., 02-6581128). The whimsical children’s playground decor has been replaced with sophisticated bistro tiling and a counter crowned by rose-covered arches. Order an organic golden lotus tea (B180), served in an elegant glass pot, to go with your Claris Set (B440)—a rose sphere, raspberry mousse sable and lychee whipped ganache choux trio, followed by a dessert of rose foam, sponge cake, milk ice cream, lychee jelly and raspberry sauce.

Positive Green (6/10 Soi Phrom Si 1, Sukhumvit Soi 39) provides a new spot to shop for all things healthy, organic, vegan and dairy-free after brunching at neighboring Brekkie. Stock up on chia seeds (two bags for B250), coconut yogurt (B35/ pot), healthy takeaway meals (around B90) and organic veggies before heading to the airy second-floor coffee shop for something a little different like their yuzu Americano or strawberry latte (two for B120) and a sweet custard canele (B60). They also stock chemical-free home and beauty products like dish soap, cleaning spray, shampoo and conditioner.

Let the smell of freshly baked dough guide you to 72 Courtyard’s latest Italian offering. Inside, moody industrial light fixtures hang above rustic wooden tables, framed on one side by a long and well-stocked wine bar. Wood-fired pizzas topped with Italian sausage like salami picante parade from the open kitchen, alongside comfort-food dishes like hanger steak and meat sauce penne. Enjoy a glass of fruity Italian Carpineto Dogajolo Cabernet Sauvignon in the alfresco seating area, accompanied by a platter of cold-cuts and cheese.

NN-BK#753-21DEC18_NEW.indd 21

CarBar 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor)

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 2 complimentary Vanilla Sundae cups valued THB 200 when spending THB 2,000 or more /sales slip (limit 2 cups /card /table /sales slip) Today – 30 Jun 19

12/14/18 3:22 PM

Tailor Asok

TABLE TALK

Aesop’s 120 Sala Daeng Soi 1/1, 062-567-7751. Open MonSat 5pm-midnight, Sun 12pm-11pm This next-gen rebirth of a family-run Greek restaurant from Sydney, Australia, conjures an ouzo-fueled party atmosphere unlike anything that’s come before it in Bangkok. Menabrea beer is on tap and a slew of Greek wines are on offer, while flavorful dips like taramasalata and tzatziki served with billowing, fresh-baked pita set the foundation for meals that’s for sharing. There’s also Sunday brunch parties with a charcoal grill in the open air Santorinistyle courtyard that are definitely worth checking out. Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 10% discount on food only (except special events) Today – 30 Apr 19

NN-BK#753-21DEC18_NEW.indd 22

Little Brochett

NEW AND NOTED

18 This new opening proves local seafood is worthy of fine dining

19 At this “tailor” shop, 20 Get a taste of the measurements come Med at Ekkamai’s new in shot form Turkish bistro

Nichada Thani may be a little further off the map than many Bangkokians care to venture, but it’s well worth a trip into the suburbs to check out KaiJin (39/1257 Nichada Thani, Samakkee Rd., Nonthaburi, 02-0048127), a new omakase restaurant that places the focus on local, sustainable seafood. Owner Natakorn “Thumb” Changrew already runs the successful Vapor, within which this new 12-seater venue is housed, open exclusively on Fridays and Saturdays. International and Japanese-inspired dishes are whipped up by Le Cordon Bleu-trained head chef Robert Lawson and Thai-American sushi chef Niki Vongthong, all based on the catch of the day—which is often caught locally by the owner himself.

Open since June, Tailor Asok is bringing something a little different to Bangkok’s suit-central. From the outside, the only indicator that it is not, in fact, a tailor’s shop are the pink neon lights that shine from within. Indeed, the bar pays homage to its former 40-year history as a tailor shop with on-theme decor like sewing machines, hangers and mannequins, all awash with neon light, creating a strong party vibe. A nightly live band provides the ‘90s and ‘00s soundtrack for the beer buffet (B399, Mon-Thu) at the ground floor bar or a Blue Hawaii cocktail (B280) in the chilled upstairs seating area.

Check out Little Brochette’s (582/6 Soi Sukhumvit 63 [Ekkamai], 084229-8085) cozy white-walled restaurant with its faux grass for wholesome, Mediterranean set lunches—try the spicy Merguez-style beef balls wrap (B245 with fries and a drink). A la carte mezes and mains are also on the menu, like the Adana kebab (B450 including two sides) and the saksuka-like fried eggplant and zucchini in yogurt sauce (B110)—or, simply give them your budget and leave it up to the chefs to decide for you. Having lived in France, the Turkish-born owner finds ways to incorporate things like cassoulet into the menu, too.

12/14/18 3:23 PM

food & drink | taste test

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 21, 2018

Who makes the best… affordable bubbly? Champagne season is upon us, but those of us living in the real world will be much more likely to pop prosecco this New Year than Piper-Heidsieck. That’s why we’ve undertaken the tiresome chore of testing out the best bubbles in Bangkok for under B1,000. That’s right, these are all well within any party budget. By BK Staff

Sartori Prosecco Brut, B650 From: Veneto, Italy ABV: 11% Not be the best but we’d still buy it. An uncomplex taste and mild sweetness make for a safe crowd pleaser—provided your friends aren’t all Champagne boffs. Verdict: Nothing wrong with safe. Get it at: IHC Hospitality Solutions, 099-292-4924. info_ihc@italthaigroup.com

Zardetto Prosecco Brut Treviso DOC, B690

Runner Up!

From: Veneto, Italy ABV: 11.5% Sour at first but perfectly palatable after a few sips. We’d happily drink it all night, in fact. It’s dry, smells fragrant and, unlike the sweeter stuff, doesn’t feel overpowering after a few glasses. Verdict: The all-nighter. Get it at: BottleGrotto Co., Ltd., 33 Soi Sukhumvit 63 (Ekkamai). www.bottlegrotto.com

NN-BK#753-21DEC18_NEW.indd 23

Collina del Sole Prosecco, B690 From: Veneto, Italy ABV: 11.5% The taste of alcohol is strong—a good sign for the hardcore drinkers. Though it lacks effervescence and smells a little cheap, it’s generally inoffensive. We wouldn’t serve it as a welcome drink, but once our guests are oiled up? Sure. Verdict: One for the reserves. Get it at: Virtual Wine Cellar app available on both IOS and Android.

Famiglia Pasqua Prosecco Brut, B839

Yuck!

From: Treviso, Italy ABV: 11% The sweetest of all and not in a tasty way. Fruity but overly ripe. Floral like your grandma’s overpowering perfume. It also turns out to be the most expensive bottle we test! Verdict: All the wrong notes. Get it at: Villa Market.

Freixenet Cordon Negro Cava Brut, B799

BK Pick!

From: Cava, Spain ABV: 11.5% Dry, crisp, and well-balanced. Nice and fruity but not sweet or overly ripe (we’re looking at you, Famiglia Pasqua). Plus, it has a pleasant natural aroma—not a spritz of eau de cologne to be traced. Verdict: The one for the countdown. Get it at: Villa Market.

Blancher Reserva Cava Brut, B690 From: Catalonia, Spain ABV: 12% This one’s actually not bad, but it’s not all that exciting, either. It’s quite dry, yet the aftertaste is sharp and bitter-sweet. We can’t say we love it, but we don’t hate it either. Verdict: Grab it if nothing else is on the shelf. Get it at: IHC Hospitality Solutions, 099292-4924. info_ihc@italthaigroup.com

12/14/18 3:23 PM

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 21, 2018

COME WORK WITH US!

WANT TO KNOW THE BEST DEALS IN BANGKOK? BK Privileges is your gateway to exclusive deals from restaurants, gigs, hotels, bars and more. Delivered straight to your inbox.

PRIVILEGES

WEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;RE LOOKING FOR A BRIGHT, BILINGUAL AND TECH-SAVVY EDITORIAL ASSISTANT TO WORK ON AN EXCITING NEW PROJECT.

Thai national Excellent command of Thai and English Fun, enthusiastic Able to work at digital speed, under pressure and meet tight deadlines Basic project management skills

CONCERT PROMOS

DINING DISCOUNTS

PRIORITY BOOKING

AND MORE!

Send your CV and cover letter to jobs@asia-city.co.th

P.24 Sukhothai.indd 24

12/13/18 6:22 PM

dining reviews

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 21, 2018

Hanoi House

Hanoi House HHHH Vietnamese, Mahatun Plaza, 888/26 Phloen Chit Rd., 095-963-5745. Open Mon-Sat 10am10pm. B-BB

Among many little shop-houses dotted along Phloen Chit’s Mahatun Plaza stands Hanoi House. Here, vintage wooden shutters open to retro Vietnamese decor, featuring dark wood furniture that does little to tone down the vibrant yellow walls, colorful traditional lanterns and bright lace pillows. Pondering over what to order isn’t a problem, since there’s only a single-page menu, featuring Vietnamese staples that play it traditional, simple and wholesome—no mashup fusion flavors here. The eight-hour-stewed beef pho (B150), served in a traditional Vietnamese ceramic bowl, is light and fragrant, while the nam nueng (large marinated grilled pork dumplings, B280) taste just right: sweet, salty and juicy, but not dripping with fat—at their best when wrapped in crisp lettuce leaves, topped off with a bunch of herbs and a heavy drizzle of homemade coconut sugar and lime sauce. We love the steamed rice roll (B90), it’s not at all oily and

Funky Lam HHHH Laotian. The Taste Thonglor, 235 Thonglor Soi 11, 02-050-0469. Open Mon, Wed-Sun 6-11:30pm F BBB

With a new breed of Thai restaurants taking pride in regionality (100 Mahaseth, Rarb, Sorn), discerning diners can also hop the border to taste the “same same but different” fare of neighboring Laos at Funky Lam. A bright, brunch-friendly cafe with a motorbike fixation by day (named Luka Moto), this nook on the corner of Thonglor Soi 11 transforms spectacularly come sundown. Hand-painted rattan blinds, dashes of neon and flickering film projections lend a vibe that’s sultry and clandestine. This is the baby of nightlife baron Sanya Souvanna Phouma, a master of exotic mood-setting at ventures like Sing Sing or Cactus, and fellow Laotian business partner Saya Na Champassak, who’ve whipped up an intoxicating blend of new and old just made for the start of a big night out. Fans of Isaan, northern Thai and Vietnamese food will find plenty that’s familiar in the drinking nibbles, salads, soups and grilled meats on offer, but there are surprises too. Kick things off with the kaipen (B190), a starter of crunchy Mekong river weed spotted with sesame seeds that comes with three pungent varieties of jaew (chili dips). Sweet but not too sweet, spicy but not overbearingly so, you’ll want to smear

comes stuffed full of minced pork drizzled in sweet dipping sauce with a refreshing zingy hit, while the super-fresh spring rolls (B120) are packed with the perfect ratio of whole shrimp to vegetables and rice noodles. For your carb fix, a plate of Vietnamese fried rice is a must: warm, rich and comforting, with a depth of flavor that hints at curry powder, and a generous topping of shredded pork, Vietnamese sausage, crispy shallots, carrots and peas. The baked fish in a clay pot (B180) is equally hearty and intense in flavor thanks to a mellow both of ginger, scallions, chilis and soy sauce—spoon it onto a pile of steaming rice and it’s just wonderful. The small drinks menu covers all the boozy essentials, including classic cocktails, whiskey and house wines, though we recommend ditching the alcohol for the Vietnamese coffee (B90), whose distinctive strong bitterness is cut perfectly with tooth-achingly sweet condensed milk. It’s a shame there’s no dessert on offer, but what they lack in sweets they make up for in speedy, attentive service and very satisfying prices—on which note, it’s cash only.

these relishes on everything. More gimmicky is the smashed avocado jaew (or “Laotian guacamole”) that comes with the gai ping (grilled half baby chicken, B360), but you can’t deny this is some incredibly tender bird a good few notches above your regular streetside gai yang cart. Funky Lam is at its best when it pulls no punches. With its liberal dousing of padaek (aka plara), the tam mak hoong puu tord (papaya salad with cherry tomatoes and tempura soft-shell crab, B260) is the polar opposite of the sickly sweet somtam that finds favor in Bangkok—funky, indeed! Order the larb ped (herbal minced duck salad, B350) for a decent primer on the differences between Laotian and Isaan cuisines. This herbaceous, citrusy salad sidesteps sweat-inducing heat for oodles of umami and will have you dabbing away with your sticky rice (B40) until it’s done. From the sublime to the merely serviceable, Funky Lam’s sai oua (Chiang Mai pork sausage, B290) is dry, crumbly and a bit of a chore thanks to the impractical but cute mini cleaver it’s served with. That’s a minor quibble when there’s ice-cold Beerlao (B150) in full flow. Better yet, order up some punchy Asian creations from the coffee counter-turned-cocktail bar—the Lazy Sour (B320), with its sour-sweet hit of tamarind, fully lives up to the blinking sign’s neon mantra, “Keep the Funk Alive.” (Bonus: The bowl of crisp, dried chilis might be the best free bar snack in town.)

Ratings H Forget it HH Only if you’re in the neighborhood HHH A pleasant dining experience HHHH Not to be missed HHHHH Flawless

B BB BBB BBBB

BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

DiningReviews-BK#753-21DEC18.indd 25

Price guide Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up

Symbols Reservations recommended Parking Dress requirements Live music

H F E G

12/14/18 3:26 PM

shopping | new look

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 21, 2018

Fashion Parade

The Selected

This year has offered unparalleled opportunities to blow your baht on new threads at fancy flagships. Here’s where. By Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley Artisans’ Royal Club

Menswear and Womenswear Another Man Story While its sister branch Another Story deals largely in stationery and home decor, this store offers three zones of Thai and international brands dedicated to the modern gent, including Selvedgework for personalized denim, Tuesday Evening for vintage-style neckties, Izipizi for French eyewear and Gentlemen’s Hardware for British lifestyle products. 1/F, The EmQuartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-0036139. Open daily 10am-10pm

COS The high-brow arm of Sweden’s H&M fashion retailer has brought the answer to expensive-looking designer style on a middle-management budget, with not one but three store openings this year, at EmQuartier, Siam Paragon and IconSiam (head here for womenswear, menswear and childrenswear). M/F, The EmQuartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-2691000. Open daily 10am-10pm

Pomelo (CentralWorld) The local e-commerce power’s largest Bangkok opening is bright, all-white and filled with their fun and youthful new collection. 2/F, CentralWorld, 999/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-1031537. Open daily 10am-10pm

Artisans’ Royal Club A swanky opening that brings together gent’s fashion and grooming essentials, including Truefitt & Hill barbershop, local leather shoe manufacturer Mango Mojito, premium denim store Selvedgework, bespoke suit tailor Notch, and gallery-cum-whiskey and cigar bar Duke. 1/F, Gaysorn Village, 999 Phloen Chit Rd. Open daily 10am-8pm

ShoppingFeature-BK#753-21DEC18-3_NEW.indd 26

Thai Thai Similar to its Central Chidlom sibling, this elegant opening hosts 15 top Thai designer brands on one floor: Asava, ASV by Asava, Canitt, Hamburger Studio, Insomnia by Vara, Janesuda, Lolita Party, Milin, Patinya, Poem, Reflex Angela, Thea by Thara, Tohns, Valentier and Vickteerut. Head here for both wardrobe staples and occasion-wear. 2/F, Zen Department Store, CentralWorld, 999/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-100-9999. Open daily 10am-10pm

COS

Gentlewoman Featuring classy and smart designs with retro-inspired breezy silhouettes and patterns, ranging from summery, everyday pieces to office attire, glam evening outfits and swimsuits. G/F, Siam Square One, Rama 1 Rd., 065-6812439. Open daily 10am-10pm

Streetwear Off-White Bangkok’s flagship of one of this year’s mostin-demand fashion brands comes with sleek futuristic decor for an edgy, street-meets-luxury vibe. Head here for their latest collections with the label’s signature stripe branding. M/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-129-4530. Open daily 10am-10pm

Atmos One of Tokyo’s most prominent streetwear and sneaker boutiques, featuring a wide range of exclusives and collaborations from the likes of Nike, Adidas, Puma and Asics, as well as inhouse labels. 2/F, CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd., 085-234-1967. Open daily 10am-10pm

JD Sports The two-floor flagship of the UK’s giant multibrand sports fashion retailer, featuring fashion and lifestyle products from Adidas, Nike, Fila,

Gentlewoman

Puma, New Balance, Vans, Converse and more, with a whole floor dedicated to sneakers. 2-3F, IconSiam, 299 Charoen Nakhon Soi 5, 02-495-7000. Open daily 10am-10pm

Nike Kicks Lounge Southeast Asia’s first chance to experience Nike’s unique personal styling experience, with a curated selection of sports apparel and footwear from the entire Nike range, as well garment tailoring and customization services. 1/F, IconSiam, 299 Charoen Nakhon Soi 5, 02-495-7000. Open daily 10am-10pm

Adidas Originals (IconSiam) At 459 square meters, this is the largest Adidas Original Concept Store in Southeast Asia, packed with rare editions and collaborations. 1/F, IconSiam, 299 Charoen Nakhon Soi 5, 02-495-7000. Open daily 10am-10pm

Multi-Labels Absolute Siam Store Oozing a cool, pop-artsy vibe, with exclusive streetwear-focused collaborations between Absolute Siam and hotshot Thai designers like Leisure Projects, Takara Wong, SSAP NYC, Dry Clean

Another Mini Story

Only and Painkiller, as well as offering a number of quirky Thai traditional-inspired lifestyle products, souvenirs and accessories. 1/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. Open daily 10am-10pm

Another Mini Story This smaller branch of the hip multi-label store gathers cool designer products, tech, stationery, home decor and fashion items from the likes of Australia’s Native Union and Urbanears, Bangkok’s Brainwashed Theory and France’s Izipizi. 3/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-003-6138. Open daily 10am-10pm

The Selected (IconSiam) Brighter and hipper than its Siam Center predecessor, this lifestyle multi-label store features a carefully curated selection from the very best in emerging Thai talent, including bags by Container and Naibarn Factory and locally-made skincare products from Gla and Nava Workshop. 2/F, IconSiam, 299 Charoen Nakhon Soi 5, 02-658-1000 Ext 1378. Open daily 10am-10pm

12/14/18 3:37 PM

neighborhood | mrt rama 9

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 21, 2018

Drip & Drop Coffee Supply

Anotai

Pressed Cafe

Peace Oriental Teahouse

Concrete Jungle Gleaming high-rise condos, offices and mighty shopping malls flank the jam-packed intersections of Ratchadaphisek, Asoke-Din Daeng, Petchaburi and Rama 9, but don’t turn and run just yet. It may seem daunting at first but this neighborhood has a lot to offer. By Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley

Coffee & Breakfast Get your five-a-day with Kyoto-hailing Drip & Drop Coffee Supply’s (B/F, G Tower Grand Rama 9, 33/4 Rama 9 Rd., 02169-8218) refreshing Fruits Iced Coffee (cold drip with iced fruit, mint, and marmalade syrup, B160). The minimalist Pressed Cafe (61/120 Rama 9 Soi 7, 096834-8461) serves single origin Aeropress coffee (from B100) and Insta-worthy DIY pressed chocolate (B90). Cure hunger pangs with hip warehouse-style Noxx Cafe’s (129 Rama 9 Rd., 02-643-0804) tuna cheese melt (B99) and hot peppermint mocha (B120). For a Zen-like experience, head to Peace Oriental Teahouse (G/F, G Tower Grand Rama 9, 33/4 Rama 9 Rd., 097-267-2626)—don’t miss the amazing Matcha Extremist (B240) charcoal ice cream.

Lunch & Dinner G Tower Grand Rama 9 (33/4 Rama 9 Rd.) houses Sushi Seki

Noxx Cafe

(B/F, ‭02-118-2332‬) for foie gras sushi (B99), Savory Story (B/F, 090005-6955) for Chinese street food like crepe-style jianbing guozi (B80), Dal Dal Korean Restaurant (G/F, 02-169-8213) for fried kimchi pork (B229), and Maderla by Phuthai Kaiyang 1971 (B/F, 02-118-2642) for leng sab (hot and spicy pork rib soup, B199). For mean southern Thai dishes, check out Ruen Mae Lui (B/F, Fortune Town, Ratchadaphisek Rd., 02642-0343), or for authentic Thai deep-fried snapper (B450), try long-established Savoey (G/F, The Shoppes@Belle Grand Rama 9, 02168-1347). Anotai (976/17 Rama 9 Rd., 02-641-5366) serves vegan food that won’t disappoint, like their sesame-seasoned tempeh tempura (B185).

Drinks Revelers may be tempted to cab it over to RCA’s clubbing strip, but there are some decent bars within around 10 minutes’ walk,

like the grungy Fatty’s Bar & Diner (598/66 Asoke Din Daeng Rd., 02-245-2965), offering over 30 craft beers (B160-350), juicy burgers and live music, and OMG Bar & Restaurant (322/308-310, Ratchadaphisek Soi 3, 02-0705295), where comforting Mexican food meets an affordable beer selection (Asahi, B95/pint).

Transport MRT Rama 9 is at the heart of it all.

Accommodation Three-minutes’ walk from the MRT, Ideo Mobi Rama 9 (90 Rama 9 Rd., 02-316-2222) has 705 units from B12,000 -60,000/month. Close by, Condolette Midst Rama 9 (75 Rama 9 Rd.) offers 433 units from B13,000 -45,000/month, while Aspire Rama 9 (Rama 9 Soi 2, 085-844-3141) has 663 units from B13,000 -45,000/month. Ten minutes’ walk away, Belle Grand Rama 9 (33 Soi Rama 9 Square, 02-246-2323) boasts eight

buildings and 2,024 units from B20,000-180,000/month.

Visit Neighboring RCA is worth the trip for arthouse cinema House RCA (3/F, RCA Plaza, 38/1 Petchaburi Rd., 02-641-5177. B120/ ticket), or for work on the go, check out Big Co-working (129 Rama 9 Rd., 02-643-0811). Shopaholics can’t miss the whopping seven-story Central Plaza Grand Rama 9 (9/9 Rama 9 Rd., 02-103-5999); opposite, Fortune Town (5 Ratchadaphisek Rd., 02-247-3737) offers great-value tech, gadgets and vinyl records. Also nearby, lifestyle and entertainment mega-complex Show DC (99/6-9 Chaturathit Rd., 02-203-1890) houses Bangkok’s largest outdoor arena.

BK ASKS

What do you like about life on Rama 9?

Neighborhood-BK#753-28DEC18-2.indd 27

GURDEV SINGH SRIKHANDPUR, OWNER OF OMG BAR & RESTAURANT “Rama 9 can be colorful, but it’s not super saturated with commercial tourism— expats can appreciate the low-rent factor for the location.”

JEV PHANKASEM, CO-OWNER OF PRESSED CAFE “With its rapid growth, Rama 9 is an up and coming area with strong character. There’s an interesting mix of people here, from young crowds to corporate bankers, which generates a positive energy in the community.”

WASU MANOMAIPHIBUL, OWNER OF NOXX CAFE “Rama 9 is going through rapid development with the arrival of high-rise offices and condos. At the same time, you can still find quiet hangout spots hidden behind big office buildings or in small sois.”

12/13/18 5:47 PM