BK E-Mag 775,Nov 22 2019 by BK Magazine

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it's free!

Gagged Bangkok’s most outspoken chef is back Old School Thonglor isn’t as gentrified as you think Empty Calories Alcohol-free beer hits the market Out of the Pan Silom’s quaintest ‘hood stays cool

BK BAD Guide FREE INSIDE! NO. 775 NOVEMBER 22, 2019. www.bkmagazine.com

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page 3 Who's in charge?

Managing Director & Publisher Andrew Hiransomboon Managing Editor Craig Sauers Deputy Editor Angela Symons Senior Digital Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Digital Content Coordinator Pakchira Bunphol Junior Digital Content Coordinator Kawee Jarach Senior Writer Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley Contributors Megan Leon, Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj

upfront

Sorn's chef on sustainability and southern food

Creative Director Bhatara Chirdchuen Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Senior Graphic Designer Assaya Dejkong Graphic Designers Anunya Chobnitas, Wirankan Saiyasombut Photographer Poonsawat Suttama Junior Videographers Jaruwan Suwandee, Tham Rodjananaudomvutigul Junior Video Editor Jakphet Potisarn Business Development Director Jane Bay Senior Business Developmet Manager Madeleine Anantasuk

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Managers Tipkritta Chiraporncharas, Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri Sales Associate Parinda Dermsripoom

cover

How much is too much?

Junior Marketing Executive Katthaleeya Tamkittigul ASIA CITY STUDIO Managing Editor Dietrich Neu Associate Editors Sureepak Janyapat, Willy Thorn Event Projects Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Event Coordinator Thanawat Buddhichewin Project Coordinator Sirinart Panyasricharoen Junior Project Coordinator Sawanya Chantarakana Senior Developers Prawee Wiangin, Wasan Wangrach Developer Nopanun Laochunanun Branded Content Writer Chakariya Cheewatara SOIMILK Editor Noranartta Chaikum Senior Writer Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan, Kristiya Chaisri Writer Sarin Songkriengkrai Junior Graphic Designer Wathinee Srithongchuai Senior Sales Associate Kornkanok Sriwaranant Sales Associates Palita Nueangnit Assistant Brand Manager Prawpraew Pairohg

Intern Vongsathon Karnchanapandh

open door

Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net) Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)

food

home

The real Thonglor cool kids

BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2019 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Media Group (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250

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That plastic is officially out of fashion Don’t expect a pint-sized plastic bag the next time you purchase a 65ml Yakult from 7-Eleven: the Thai cabinet has approved a plan to make single-use plastics illegal as of Jan 1, 2021. Steady—make that roaring—applause from everyone at BK headquarters. It won’t happen without hiccups, but at least we’re edging toward the right side of history.

A guide to condo gardening

Taipei export Draft Land is coming to town, Gaggan somm Vladimir Kojic is back with aptly named Wetter, the founder of Tropic City and Sugar Ray are teaming up for Konkord (opening on Sukhumvit Soi 11 this December) and soon-toopen Four Seasons Bangkok brings The Social Club, a bar led by Philip Bischoff—former bar manager of Singapore’s Manhattan, which last year ranked no. 2 on the Asia’s Best Bars list. That 2020 might be an even bigger year for fine dining First, the Capella Bangkok welcomes Mediterranean-leaning Côte Capella from chef Mauro Colagreco, whose threeMichelin-starred Mirazur currently ranks no. 1 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Then there’s Cadence and Caper from chef Dan Bark, the man in the corner at Michelinstarred Upstairs; the permanent home of Clara from Sensi founders Christian Martena and Clara Del Corso-Martena; and Blue by Alain Ducasse, from the French legend himself. That the baht is still killing it

get in the loop

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The third Michelin Guide to Thailand has just been released. For the first time, it includes a guide to Chiang Mai as well as Bangkok and Phuket. While the city’s industry folks had been wondering which Chiang Mai restaurant had paid enough money earned a coveted star, it turns out that no place in the north was deemed star-worthy. The big news was that two Thai restaurants in Bangkok were given two stars each: R.Haan and Sorn. Thai food reigns supreme.

That 2020 is going to be a big year in booze

Asia City Media Group

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That tire company officials really like Thai food

After years of campaigning by transgender students and activists, Chulalongkorn University is now allowing students to wear uniforms that align with their gender identity. This is good. But how about just not making uniforms mandatory in the first place?

Gaggan Anand

The Asia City Media Group

What We’ve Learned

That transgender Chula students can dress according to how they identify

Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Accountant Manita Bangmoung Admin Executive Yaovaluck Srisermsri

Where to find us!

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 22, 2019

The central bank is slashing interest rates to rein in our overperforming currency. But at least the Russians are back— nearly 13,000 of them have booked direct flights to Surat Thani, from where they’ll make a beeline for the Gulf of Thailand’s party islands. The full moon rages on.

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upfront

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 22, 2019

HOT OR NOT

STING OPERATIONS

The mastermind behind Bangkok’s ground-breaking Sorn talks shop INTERVIEW

Supaksorn “Ice” Jongsiri has had a stellar year. The executive chef’s southern Thai heavyweight Sorn cracked the top 10 in Top Tables, ranked in Asia’s 50 Best and most recently earned two Michelin stars. We sat down with the ever-sohumble Ice to discuss his personal relationship with food, southern Thai farmers and putting culture and sustainability into every bite.

“Integrity is so important.”

BANGKOK QUEUING CULTURE

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What does earning two Michelin stars mean to you and your team?

How do sustainability and local produce factor into your work at Sorn?

I put everything into Sorn, including a bit of my son’s college savings! Every single person at Sorn was at [my grandmother’s restaurant] Baan Ice before. The team has heart—maybe not culinary school training, but they know their food, their homes. They’re born with it. This is validation for us.

Sometimes our ingredients are 100 percent sourced from the south (all 14 provinces), but it’s safer to say about 90 percent because sometimes ingredients aren’t available. One beach in the south has the sand mole crabs we use; they’re delicious, but the fishermen were going to stop selling them because there was no demand. If we wait another five years, we won’t have these things to eat anymore. I don’t want these ingredients to disappear, so I work hard to maintain relationships with local farmers and fishermen. We talk a lot about food waste, but it’s just as serious to waste great produce that hasn’t been turned into dishes yet.

Tell us more about your process at Sorn We travel all over the south. We cook from early morning to serve our dishes for just one seating a night—just like my grandma always did at Baan Ice. She would go to the market, prepare meals all day and then they would appear like magic on your table. You can taste the love she put into her food. Compared to that, skill doesn’t matter nearly as much. Why did you mention mangosteen farmers on stage at the Michelin reveal? To be honest, I was so shocked when I got on stage that the only thing that crossed my mind was to thank the farmers—especially the mangosteen farmers. There’s no demand for mangosteen. People are selling them at B3 per kilo, and the prices get lower until it comes to the point that they have to throw it all away. It brings me to tears. I try to use them as much as possible to make sauces. I put them in the curries. I use them at Baan Ice. And not because of the price. I do it to support these farmers who work so hard and because they are good.

As diners, what is our responsibility? Go local, eat local, support local. Be the change. And for chefs? There are people who want to open restaurants but lack skill, but if you want to do it, just do it and be real. Don’t say you offer fresh seafood when really it’s frozen. Integrity is so important. Somedays at Sorn, we might not like the eggs from the south, so we use eggs from our farm, but we always inform our guests. What’s your goal? At this point, I found what I love to do and it makes me happy, so maybe I’ve already achieved my goal. The recognition we’ve received is beyond anything I could have dreamed of. To see people smile and enjoy our food is truly priceless. Megan Leon

First, the authorities clamped down on movie2free.com, leaving millions of Bangkok residents with the unsavory option of having to go to Fortune Town to purchase pirated DVDs. Then, so-called “copyright agents” put the kibosh on krathong-based side hustles, fining a 15-year-old girl for creating the weirdly specific floats of copyrighted cartoon characters they ordered, proving that crime sometimes does pay.

ENGLISH Behind the curve in English? More like ahead of the curve in resource management. Foreign tourism is down and TM30gate has sparked a mass exodus of grumpy old expats, so why even bother with that post-colonial language anymore? For the third year in a row, Thailand’s English proficiency levels have dropped, putting us almost on a par with Cambodia. All that lack of investment in education is really paying off.

RAGE What do you do when an ambulance races up behind you and blasts those detestable sirens? Show ‘em who’s boss. Drive at the speed limit—better yet, go under the speed limit for once—order your servant to roll down the window of your Benz and raise that middle finger like the mast of your yacht, because you’re late for lunch and absolutely ravenous for Greyhound’s spaghetti kee mao.

EATING OUT You’re dying to try the sole meunière at Red Sky, but it’s been a long day checking your Facebook at the office and the restaurant frowns upon people rocking up in PJs. Fret not: the Centara Grand at Central World has you covered. Now that the five-star hotel has officially partnered with Grab Food, you can dine fashionably in the comfort of your own condo.

by Jakkii (FB: @Amateur Artist Mode - by Jakkii)

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cover | more not less

do we drink too much? Our drinking culture has entered rarefied heights. Want to knock back world-class sour ales, sample a biodynamic wine from the Dolomites, settle in for a rotary evaporated cocktail? Whatever your itch, Bangkok can scratch it. But for every cool cocktail bar that opens, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s another nobooze advocate reminding us that alcohol isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t exactly great for our bodies. That makes us wonder: are we drinking too much? We spoke to the experts to find out. By BK Staff

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 22, 2019

What your drink order says about you, according to Bangkok bartenders Niks AnumanRajadhon, co-founder of Teens of Thailand and Asia Today Shots If a guy calmly asks for a specific type of shot, then the man is on a mission. If you’re yelling for shots, well, you know how that story ends.

Vodka soda Good call—low calories.

Long Island iced tea Sure, I’ll make the tastiest and strongest Long Island you’ll ever have—it’s the party people’s introduction to cocktails.

Plain soda A lemon wedge as well? I admire people who come to cocktail bars and have the guts to refuse a drink.

Drinking has been linked to both longer lifespans and the death of millions each year, which is quite a duality to behold. First, the bad news: a lot of people in Thailand die because of alcohol. As in, more than anywhere else in Asia (no. 40 in the world, with 2.83 deaths out of 100,000 people, according to WorldExpectancy.com). That includes recent cases like Lunlabelle the “pretty,” who died from extreme alcohol poisoning after recording a truly astonishing blood alcohol concentration of 418 mg per 100 ml, and the three guys in Chonburi, who died after drinking ya dong laced with toad extract, of all things. Not to mention deaths from liver cirrhosis ranked among the country’s ten biggest killers last year. “Functioning alcoholics means high-performance people who can drink a lot of alcohol and yet be able to work at a relatively high level. I’ve personally lost ping-pong matches and had remarkably good business consultations with very drunk professionals,” says Dr. Jug*, a medical doctor on the sub-board of digestive and liver diseases and a writer for liverchula.org. “It’s important to note that end stage liver disease (cirrhosis) can afflict social drinkers— even if these people never get drunk.”

es of drunk driving, especially during Songkran. Of course, all those folks driving their motorbikes home completely obliterated probably aren’t getting loaded on craft beers at the Roi Et bar and bottle shop. But, in Bangkok, drunk driving covers all classes. Where in the world is the Boss, Vorayuth Yoovidhya, anyway? “Alcohol being ‘healthy’ is a myth, but social drinking—limited to two cans of beer or two glasses of wine a few times a week—might not be harmful,” adds Dr. Jug. “However, there are people who can metabolize alcohol more efficiently than others. There are thousands of Thai traffic accident deaths every year, some of which can be attributed to ‘moderate’ alcohol drinking, so be very careful with that ‘two drink’ limit.” So, alright, alcohol consumed in more than moderate amounts is a problem. That isn’t a surprise. But does that make alcohol inherently evil? Is it time to dump our best bottles of booze down the bathtub drain? *Dr. Jug spoke on the condition of anonymity to discuss alcohol-related issues.

Pailin “Milk” Sajjanit, bar manager at 008

Shots They’re out for a good time.

Long Island iced tea They’re craving a stiff drink.

Vodka soda Maybe they’re running out of ideas.

Martini People look cool when they order a Vesper Martini. It shows they have good taste.

Let’s not forget drunk driving. Last year, about 22,000 people died on Thailand’s roads—many of which were cas-

Pop Direkrittikul, bar manager at Eat Me

Tips for responsible drinking

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U Drink I Drive

Low-ABV drinks

Session beers

Umeshu

This startup offers on-demand chauffeur services. If you party too hard, open the app, make a booking and a pro driver will take you home in your car. Don’t worry— every driver is insured and uses a GPS monitoring device. The app offers female drivers for groups of women as well.

The trend for low-ABV cocktails is real. Try the Sweet Cheeks (gin, maraschino cherry, blueberry and lavendar cordial; B320) at Crimson Room; the Moonchild (homemade limoncello, honey and cranberry syrup, egg white and grapefruit bitters; B320) at Serial Laughter; and the Americano (a negroni with soda water instead of gin) at Vesper and 1919.

Mikkeller Bangkok always has a lowalcohol brew on tap, like the 3.5% Otherside Lo-Fi. Sour beers usually clock in at less than 5% alcohol as well, like the FrauGruberlicious sour ale on tap at Hair of the Dog. Two of these won’t knock you flat.

The Japanese plum spirit itself isn’t low in alcohol (about 15%). If you order an umeshu highball at Jua or PrumPlum Umeshu Bar, however, you’re in for a light, fruity treat of your favorite plum wine mixed with soda water. Order some skewers to slow the absorption of alcohol into your circulatory system, too.

Shots This guy is already drunk.

Long Island iced tea Really? Is that the best you can think of?

Vodka soda You’re playing it safe—it’s flavorless.

Margarita Good call. It’s a tricky one for bartenders to get right—we either make it too sweet or too sour.

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cover | more not less Really, it isn’t that weird to belly up to the bar and order a soda water with a slice of lemon anymore. But, globally, the No Alcohol Low Alcohol, or “NoLo,” movement is yielding even better non-alcoholic options for drinkers who have stepped away from booze—whether for religious and health reasons or sheer boredom. Beer giants like Heineken and Bavaria have rolled out alcohol-free beers that, believe it or not, actually taste like beer (check out our non-alcoholic beer taste test on page 21). And Seedlip, a non-alcoholic distilled gin owned by Diageo, is giving us interesting options that transcend your basic Shirley Temple or virgin daiquiri. “There are a ton of reasons people don’t drink, and that shouldn’t preclude them from joining in the second golden age of cocktails,” says Chi. “Bartenders are exploring new flavors, new techniques and new presentations constantly, and no one should be left out. The NoLo trend will come to Thailand, for sure. Thais are extremely social and have become more health-conscious—a NoLo cocktail scratches both those itches.” Ping adds, “In Thailand, we kind of already have the NoLo trend. During Khao Phansa, many Thais give up alcohol and other vices for three months. I think it’s great if you can do it. I actually did it once long ago.” These days, he says, “I love low-ABV cocktails. I usually avoid daytime drinking, but if I do drink during the day, I’ll always go for light, low-ABV cocktails.” And as for booze-free cocktails? “There’s definitely a place for it in our industry,” Ping says. “Many guests just want flavor and don’t care about ABV.”

Thailand has plenty of anti-alcohol crusaders, some more militant than others. (No advertising alcohol brands, even in front of restaurants? No alcohol on trains? We get that one in 10 of us has alcohol-fueled marital problems, according to Khaosod English, but trust your fellow citizens to have some self-control. Or maybe funnel some money into education instead of demonizing products most of us enjoy responsibly.) But the movement to drink less has more well-reasoned people than preachers—including many who work in the drinks business.

All of which is to say, enjoying a few drinks doesn’t make you morally corrupt or alcoholic. As Chacha puts it: “You just have to understand your body. That’s all.” Or, as Chi sums it up: “Drinking is a personal choice; as long as it doesn’t adversely affect yourself, your family, your work and your friends, enjoy as many as you like. Just know when enough is enough.”

“I don’t really drink [anymore],” admits Suwincha “Chacha” Singsuwan, the awesome bar manager behind Rabbit Hole, Liberation, Crimson Room and, soon, the Bangkok branch of Draft Land—the Taipei-born cocktails-on-tap bar with another outlet in Hong Kong. “Now, I walk a lot—an average of 8,000 steps a day. And I try to eat more vegetables, too. It’s a lifestyle. Many bartenders [I know] won’t drink at all during Buddhist Lent—all three months of it.” That gets complicated, she notes, only when work or social dynamics pressure you to drink. “I used to go abroad quite often for guest shifts. When you travel, you have to drink. The hosts pay for your flight, accommodation and fees, and they expect a lot of guests to turn up for you. My job is to entertain those guests and make money for the bar,” she says. “How can you get people to keep drinking after they’ve tried all your cocktails? Send out shots, drink with them and encourage them to order more.” Those demands aren’t limited to the road, either. “When friends come into the bar, of course I have to drink with them—even if I’m on duty.” Minway Chi, founder of craft spirits importer Bootleggers Trading Co., echoes that sentiment. “This industry is really tough on the body and it’s easy to burn out if you aren’t careful.” His secret to survival? “A low-ABV cocktail like a Mancino Vermouth and soda—it’s refreshing, full of flavor and will fill you up way before it gets you drunk,” he says. “If I’m truly not in the mood to drink, then I simply say no. You might get a little shit from your friends, but the fact that you aren’t drinking that night quickly disappears from the conversation.” When Rojanat “Ping” Chareonsri, group beverage director of Find the Photo Booth and Find the Locker Room, wants to take it easy, he “order[s] whisky neat, or not the rocks, and take[s] very small sips. People tend not to notice you haven’t been drinking if you’re holding a glass.”

BK writers and editors document their week in drinks

CRAIG SAUERS, MANAGING EDITOR

ANGELA SYMONS, DEPUTY EDITOR

Mon: Trying out this “sober curious” thing.

Mon: Booze free, it’s going to be a productive week!

Tue: By “sober curious,” I mean I’m still nursing a hangover from the previous Saturday. Wed: Capped a casual night run with five beers at Jusmag. Thu: Seven (small-ish!) glasses of wine and a beer with DK (chef Deepanker Khosla) at the criminally underrated Haoma. Fri: The alcohol-free beer taste test doesn’t count. The Chalawan IPA I had with dinner does. Sat: One cocktail with Chacha Singsuwan at Crimson Room before attending La Monita’s 10th birthday party, a.k.a. two free-flowing hours of pleasure and self-inflicted pain. 10 drinks? Sun: I’m never drinking again. Total: 24 drinks. I think.

Tue: Booze free. Well, almost—half a large Chang at XCQ doesn’t count, right? Wed: Uh oh… looks like that winning streak is over thanks to the wine/drinks pairing at Gaggan Anand—one gin and ginger; one glass of Champagne; three (small-ish!) glasses of white wine; three glasses of red wine (let’s pretend they didn’t keep topping it up); one glass of orange wine; one sake; one G&T. Ouch. Thu: Don’t even mention alcohol. Fri: Got that Friday feeling but tragically Ruyi Vegetarian (where I’m eating dinner) is alcoholfree. Luckily 23 Bar & Gallery (four small Leos and a whiskey shot with the owner) and Asia Today (one Cacao cocktail) are close by. Sat: Free-flow at La Monita’s 10th birthday party. Here goes nothing: two Aperol spritz, two vodka Hell Boy cocktails, one can of Rogue Batsquatch IPA beer, two gin and lychee cocktails, one can of Melvin Hubert MPA beer. I’m regretting keeping that tally.

DHIPKAWEE SRIYANANDA SELLEY, SENIOR WRITER Mon: It’s Monday. I have a strict no alcohol rule on Mondays. Plus, trying to stay sober after having too many wines and sangrias from the previous weekend. Tue: Still alcohol free. Wed: One G&T, one Campari Spritz and three glasses of Chianti at Medici, Hotel Muse. Thu: Still hungover from Wednesday night. Fri: One large can of Budweiser and one large bottle of Chang during a farewell drink session for one of our colleagues. Sat: One glass of Mai Tai at Baby Bar. Sun: One bottle of Kirin beer at Raan Keng. Total: Nine drinks.

Sun: One sip of Chang on a Chao Phraya dinner cruise leaves me feeling a little seasick. Total: 25.6 drinks. I win, I guess?

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 22, 2019

Last month, we asked you, our readers, to dish the dirt on your nightlife habits. Here are the results.

HOW OFTEN YOU GO OUT Cocktails 18.5% Gin 15.5% Wine 15.5% Standard lager 13.5% Craft beer 13% Whiskey 9% Vodka 5.5% Rum 5% Tequila 3.5%

50.4% Once a week 22.3% Two−to−three nights a week 19.8% Once a month 6.6% Rarely 0.8% Every night

HOW MUCH YOU DRINK ON AN AVERAGE NIGHT OUT

Other 1%

41.3% Two−to−three drinks 05

32.2% Three−to−six drinks

19% I usually lose count

YOUR FAVORITE POISON

4.1% One drink 2.5 % Until I black out 0.8% I’m tee-total

Vibe

Drinks Quality

Location

HOW MUCH YOU SPEND ON A SINGLE ALCOHOLIC DRINK 36.4% B200−300 26.4% B300−400

Drinks Selection

12.4% B150−200 9.1% B100−150

Service

9.1% B500+ 5.8% B400−500

Price

Decor

THE MOST IMPORTANT FACTORS WHEN DECIDING WHERE TO GO

0.8% B50−100

HOW MUCH YOU BUDGET FOR A WEEKEND NIGHT OUT 50.4% B1,000−2,000 21.5% B2,000−3,000 10.7% B500−1,000 7.4% B3,000−4,000+

Hi-So Wine Cocktails BBBB

Thonglor

Broke Dive bars Beer Clubs

7.4% B4,000+ 2.5% B200−500

YOUR IDEAL SATURDAY NIGHT 20.7% Casual drinks at a local bar 17.4% Craft beers/wine/spirits at a specialist bar

YOUR FAVORITE AREAS TO GO OUT 28.9% Thonglor

6.6% Phrom Phong

18.2% Asoke−Nana

4.1% Ari

10.7% Sathorn

3.3% Ekkamai

8.3% Silom

1.7% Old Town

7.4% Chinatown

1.7% Siam Phloen−Chit

14% Drinks at your local then hit the club for dancing 13.2% Fancy cocktails then hit the club for dancing 12.4% Fancy cocktail bars all night 7.4% Chill at home watching TV 7.4% Cheap drinks at your local then a fancy cocktail bar 5.8% Invite friends to your house for drinks 0.8% Drinks at a restaurant 0.8% Fancy mocktails

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hit list | 18 reasons to love bangkok

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 22, 2019

Another Story reveals modern chic decor line for the holiday season HOME DECOR

The holiday season is here, and that means it’s time to surprise and spoil the people in your life—like, for instance, yourself. Thanks to the recently launched Another Home Story line from uber hip multi-label concept store Another Story, you can now pick stylish new furniture and home décor pieces to elevate your place for all those family dinners and Friendsgiving parties you’re going to host. The line offers three design trends—”Velvet Glam,” with plush, velvety pieces for that extra luxury touch; “Pop Color” to add a little brightness to your space; and “Cane is Back,” which offers a selection of rattan pieces that’ll remind you of the 17th century colonial aesthetic. Highlights include the elegant velvet Vega stools (B15,000) and silk velvet cushions (B2,750) from France’s ENOstudio and Le Monde Sauvage, the popping red Zig Zag stools (B9,800) from Netherland’s Pols Potten and the beautiful Cane lounge chairs (B22,100) from local brand Podium that give off major tropical vibes. Also, check out Belgium’s Serax ceramic fish tableware (from B510) and Chabatree’s elegant cutlery gift set (B5,430) to overhaul your dinner party game. 4/F, Another Story, The EmQuartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-003-6138. Open daily 10am-10pm

NUMEROLOGY

On the hunt for new wearable tech? Here are the best smartwatches on the market: Withings Steel HR Hybrid Smartwatch B6,790

Fitbit Versa 2 From B7,990

Samsung Galaxy Watch Active 2 From B9,900

Apple Watch Series 5 B13,400

Garmin Venu B14,500

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FASHION

TRANSPORT

TECH

02 Get your kicks at this

03 MRT Blue Line’s second

04 The world’s most

bespoke shoemaking exhibition

extension is almost ready to roll

popular headphones just got a major upgrade

Ari’s swanky menswear store The Decorum is hosting another killer sartorial event all shoe lovers won’t want to miss. From now until Nov 24, the menswear boutique will be exhibiting the top three winners from the World Championships in Shoemaking 2019, a competition held in London earlier this year in search of the best bespoke shoemakers from all over the globe. Expect stunning brown brogue Oxfords from winner Daniel Wegan from Sweden, runner-up Christophe Corthay from France and third place Eiji Murata from Japan. Ari Samphan Soi 5, 086-533-5255. Open daily noon-8pm

Finally, after eight years, the MRT Blue Line’s second extension—running north from Tha Phra to Bang Sue—will open for a public trial run next month, completing the Blue Line’s planned loop around the center of Bangkok. The 13-kilometer elevated line will stretch eight stations from MRT Tha Phra, where you can change to the Tao Poon-bound elevated purple line. These include Charan Sanit Wong 13, Yaek Fai Chai, Bang Khun Non, Bang Yi Khan, Sirindhorn, Bang Phlat, Bang Or and Bang Po. Fares will be between B16-42 per ride.

What: Apple AirPods Pro Price: B9,490 Why? Say goodbye to Apple’s hard plastic earbuds. The second-generation Apple AirPods feature an all-new design as well as more customizable, silicone ear tips that sit snugly in your ears, even when you’re working out. The Pros also offer active noise cancellation when you want to truly jam out or focus on your phone call. As for battery life, Apple claims four and a half hours using noise cancellation and transparency modes, and five hours when they’re off. Available at apple.com/th

Shop Talk How to spend your hardearned baht.

BUY IT MEN’S SOCIETY WHISKY LOVER SET The ideal gift set for whisky aficionados (B2,500); available at Another Man Story, 4/F, The Emquartier.

BIN IT NYLON TRACK PANTS AS STREETWEAR Reserve those fugly trackies for the gym, please.

BARGAIN BIRKENSTOCK Get 10 percent off a pair of Birkenstocks or 20 percent off when you buy two or more; through Dec 31. Available at Siam Center.

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 22, 2019

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS 2019: MUST HAVES BEFORE YOU LEAVE BANGKOK READY TO HIT THE AIRPORT? CHECK YOUR LIST TWICE. Travel gear to get you from here to there

grip, but plenty of padding—perfect for journeys on the move.

H u awe i C o l o r B a n d A 2 (B2,990) — Don’t miss your flight. A clean look built around an XL OLED multitouch screen makes it ideal for him or her. But that’s just the start—the A2 can also track your hikes, and your sleep. Be sure to set the ‘Reminders’ function with your flight departure time.

Matador Travel Ear Plugs (B490) — In case you want to go the opposite direction. Noisy trains, crowded airports—these can really save your sanity … and your trip. Perfect if your hotel is a little too close to the nightlife district.

Least Studio Hype passport holder (B490) — Make sure you’ve got that ultra-essential document safely stowed. The standout green cover is made from a rubber cutting mat.

Dirty Springwash shower gel by Lush (B895) — For him: sure the name is an oxymoron. But the mint tingle from the suds feel like it has extra scouring power. It’s made with spearmint and menthol crystals, plus vegetarian glycerin and sea salt, too. Ideal for washing off too many miles.

Calpak carry on bags (B5,100) — For her: Calpak’s carry on luggage line is beautiful. Lightweight hard-sided models like Astyll, Terrazzo, and Gold Marble are aesthetically designed from sheets of cut stone. JBL Reflect Mini BT wireless headphones (B3,990) — For her: these were originally d e s i g n e d f o r wo r ko u t s . They’re comfy and practical, and with Bluetooth, can connect to just about anything. Marshall Major II Headphones (B4,390) — For him: straightforward classic headphones that are lightweight and stable. They’ve got a firm snug

Brought to you by The Glenlivet

Stay fresh on your trip with deluxe toiletries and essential travel threads

IGK Jet Lag Dry Shampoo (B1,160) — For her: a care product that borders on pure magic. A scrub of this finely-milled volcanic ash erases oils, cleanses mild dirt and refreshes hair. It’s a wonder on your scalp—and practically invisible. Uniqlo’s Seamless Down Short Coat (B4,990) — For her: the perfect final layer for adventures in and through frozen terrain. The extra length around the thigh keeps you that much warmer. The design is free of exterior stitching, which means it’s extra water-resistant and windproof.

Uniqlo’s Ultra Light Down Seamless Parka (B2,990) — For him: a longtime classic. Affordable, functional and durable. Boasts a stylish contoured hood and a thin nylon riptop shell.

Don’t forget the luxuries! These consummate quality of life kickers-slash-final touches elevate your trip to one for the ages Lomography Sanremo Edition Instant Camera (B4,600) — Buck the digital trend. Capture some cool keepsakes, send your own postcards and print and leave some mementos behind too.

The new Glenlivet Triple Cask Collection — The Glenlivet, one of the world’s

best-loved brands recently released a refreshed trio collection of single malts, exclusive to airports. Each expression is triple cask matured and demonstrates how a careful interplay of whiskies matured in three different types of cask can add depth and complexity in a different way. Scotch Rocks whiskey rocks (B3,533) — Why not cool down your Glenlivet with these premium whiskey rocks? That’s a steep price tag, but it is worth it. These designer cubes are essential— and keep your whiskey velvety smooth, without watering down the flavor.

The Ultimate Traveler's Luxury There is nothing better than enjoying a quiet moment in a scenic spot with a smooth glass of quality whisky on the rocks. It truly is the highlight of your trip. And the better the company around you, the better the whisky is during your travels. And the new Triple Cask Collection from The Glenlivet tells flavor-focused stories of its own—travelling from cask to cask to create tastes that are refined, elite and smooth. Master Distiller Alex Winchester combines American White Oak, Traditional and Ex Sherry casks in varying proportions to amplify depth and complexity in all three single malts. Each whisky has its own unique flavor profile: the balanced fruity overtones of the Distiller’s Reserve; the sweet and velvety composure of the White Oak Reserve, and the rich and spicy flavors of the Rare Cask. Come visit the duty-free stores at the international airport now and discover your new travel companion for your adventure ahead. Learn more about this exclusive collection here. FB: TheGlenlivetTH IG: @theglenlivet Twitter: @TheGlenlivet

hit list | calendar

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 22, 2019

NIGHTLIFE

Bedroom pop poster boy Gus Dapperton cruises into Bangkok

KARMA KRUISE Bangkok’s most iconic floating party returns, with music headed by Jennifer Loveless, Cleveland, Krit Morton and Sunju Hargun. Nov 23, 5pm. Departs from River City, 23 Charoenkrung Soi 24. B1,400 via Ticketmelon TIKI POOL PARTY Havana Social heads poolside with Afro-Latin tunes from DJs Pepe and Henry Knowles, live bands, dancers and drag queens. Nov 30, 2 p m . Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, 0 2- 0 0 9 4999. B300 via Ticketmelon

LIVE MUSIC KYLE DIXON AND MICHAEL STEIN The duo behind the nostalgic, synth-heavy beats on “Stranger Things” comes to Bangkok. Nov 23, 8pm. Siam Pic-Ganesha Theatre, 7/F, Siam Square One, 388 Rama 1 Rd., 02-257-2899. B2,000 via Ticketmelon

LO-FI VIBES

On Dec 1, indie icon Gus Dapperton is bringing his brand of bedroom pop to Bangkok’s Live Arena RCA. The 22-year-old New Yorker, born Brendan Rice, catapulted to internetsensation status with the release of his infectious 2017 single “I’m Just Snacking,” recorded from his bedroom in his parents’ house. Since then, the Gen Z hipster has produced tracks for hit Netflix teen drama “13 Reasons Why,” while amassing 7.5 million YouTube views on his single “Prune, You Talk Funny” thanks to his signature swaying melodies and dynamic vocals. B1,590 via Ticketmelon

DELTA SLEEP-MATH ROCK APPRECIATION The British math rock band plays its first Bangkok show alongside local Thai-Japanese post-rock instrumentalists PHY. Nov 24, 7:30pm. De Commune, Liberty Plaza, 1/F, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 088-419 -7380. B750 via Ticketmelon SUNDAY SESSION

06 Two of Bangkok’s party

powerhouses join for this event On Nov 24, two of our favorite nightlife institutions are joining forces for one epic Sunday getdown. Dubbed Tropic Beam, the event will see the bartenders and DJs of Tropic City descend on 72 Courtyard for an open-air terrace party. Expect house and disco tunes from Montreal-based DJ Project Pablo, Swedish duo Mumsfilibaba, Jam On Toast and Transport; bites from newly opened Little Donkey; tropical cocktails; and an after party at Beam. 4pm. 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor). B600 via Ticketmelon (includes one Asahi)

BRASS ENSEMBLE OF THE ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW ORCHESTRA The renowned brass ensemble perform “Suvarnabhumi Prelude,” as well as other arrangements of H.M. King Bhumibol. Nov 28, 7:30pm. Prince Mahidol Hall, Mahidol University, 999 Phuttamonthon 4 Rd., 02-849-6565. B1,000-5,000 via Ticketmelon

ART

DESIGNNATION The team behind Bangkok Design Festival transforms Siam with installations, performance art, degree shows, screenings and more. Through Nov 24, 10am. Siam Discovery, Siam Center, Siam Paragon, Lido Connect, MBK, BACC. Free

CULTURAL DISTRICT 2019 Museum Siam collaborates with local artists to transform Rattanakosin Island with historical tours, talks and workshops. Through Nov 24. Museum Siam, Sanam Chai Rd., 02-225-2777. Free AWAKENING BANGKOK 2019 The one-of-a-kind festival of lights returns to illuminate Charoenkrung with more locations, more art pieces and more fun activities. Through Nov 24. BangrakCharoenkrung area. Free

SPECTROSYNTHESIS II: EXPOSURE OF TOLERANCE Gear up for Bangkok’s largest LGBTQ art exhibition with a collection of over 200 works by 50 artists from all across Asia, including Thailand’s Michael Shaowanasai, Arin Runjang and Jakkai Siributr. Nov 23-Mar 2020, 10am. Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre (BACC), 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630. Free

SCREEN

POPPIN’ BOTTLES

07 Sip 60 organic and natural

wines at this festive market

This Nov 27 (11am-6pm), Fin Festive Wine Market (B1,200/ticket) will feature up to 60 organic, biodynamic and natural wines, with special event-only discounts of up to 50 percent off. Sample wines and stock up on organic produce from Vivin, Bo.lan and Sloane’s, to name a few. Ticket prices can be redeemed for discounts on all featured wine labels and part of the proceeds will be donated to Our Mountain Our Breath—a charity for annual fires and air pollution around Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai. For tickets, contact 081-402-6664, lily@fin-wine.com or Line @lilyfeee. The Campus, Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd.

EYEHATEGOD The ‘80s American sludge metal band make their Bangkok debut with support from License To Kill, Cold Black Wines, Face Melting and Bonghill. Nov 29, 6pm. De Commune, Liberty Plaza, 1/F, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 088-4197380. B750 via Ticketmelon

KUSAMA: INFINITY This documentary explores the extraordinary life of Yayoi Kusama, the 90 -year-old Japanese artist renowned for her love of polka dots. Nov 25, 7:30pm. Jacqueline at Siri House, 14/2 Soi Somkid, 094-868-2639. B450 via Ticketmelon

FAIR

MOVIE NIGHT

Don’t miss these screenings at the Open-Air European Union Film Festival

TOE The four-piece Japanese postrock group brings its hypnotizing guitar melodies and swift drums to Bangkok. Dec 2, 7pm. Lido Connect, Rama 1 Rd., 062-929-8685. B1,500 via Ticketmelon

“SAMI BLOOD” This 2016 Swedish coming-of-age drama sees a teenage girl taken from her home and sent to a state school where indigenous students are converted into “acceptable” members of Swedish society. Dec 2. Alliance Française, 179 Wireless Rd.

“PUSKÁS” This 2009 Hungarian documentary offers an exciting and emotional portrayal of Ferenc Puskas—now widely considered as one of the greatest football players of all time. Dec 3. Alliance Française, 179 Wireless Rd.

“NOS BATAILLES” The 2018 Belgian comedy-drama “Our Struggles” follows a workaholic father forced to face up to parenthood following the disappearance of his wife. It won five titles at this year’s Magritte Awards in Brussels. Dec 15. Belgian Residence, 56 Sathorn Soi 8

NOEL GALLAGHER’S HIGH FLYING BIRDS Britpop legend Noel Gallagher returns to Bangkok for the second time. Nov 30, 9pm. Show DC Arena, Chaturathit Rd. B3,600 via Ticketmelon

MADE BY LEGACY Bangkok’s favorite vintage market returns, this time with real live horse racing. Nov 22-24, noon. The Royal Horse Guard Riding Club, Phahonyothin Rd. BTS Sanam Pao. Free

The film festival runs from Nov 29-Dec 15. For full line-up and to register for free tickets, visit bit.ly/36Zack6

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travel | news

Charoenkrung Rd.

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 22, 2019

BANGKOK

09 Two major hotel

openings mark big changes for the riverside

A massive entertainment complex opens in Phuket

VIETNAM

CHIANG RAI

10 Ring in the new year

11 Tham Luang cave is

Set on Vietnam’s idyllic Phu Quoc island, Epizode festival returns this Dec 27-Jan 7 with a massive line-up of art installations and techno, house and electronic music. Ring in 2020 with a sunrise set by Dutch electronic world music producer Satori, with chill vibes guaranteed by Gardens of Babylon–who combine music with meditation and spiritual dream effects. Austrian electronic duo HVOB will close out the festival, after 11 days of sets from the likes of British house DJ Eats Everything to Italian tech and house DJ Stefano Noferini. Tickets range from approximately B2,000 for a one-day pass to B10,700 for a full 11-day pass.

You can now walk in the footsteps of the Wild Boar football team, who became an international sensation last year after being trapped in Tham Luang cave by heavy flooding for a nail-biting 18 days. Located in Chiang Rai’s Mae Sai district, the Tham Luang Nang Nom karstic cave system winds for 10.3 kilometers, while the boys were trapped around four kilometers in. Only the entrance, the first 260foot chamber and the spirit house are now open, limited to 20 visitors at a time. Before entering, a permit must be obtained from the national park in which the cave is located. The move comes just before the documentary on the ordeal, “The Cave,” makes its Bangkok debut on Nov 28.

at this island festival

PHUKET

Currently in phase one, Blue Tree Phuket has already developed 70 rai of island real estate into a huge entertainment complex. The development features a community mall, an extensive fitness zone, an ice hockey rink, a kids’ club, an amphitheater for nightly shows, a four-storey beach club and forested cycling paths, as well as various bars and restaurants covering everything from sushi and tapas to grilled steaks, cocktails and street food trucks. Centered around a man-made lagoon, water slides, rock climbing, zip-lining and cliff jumping provide extra thrill factor. An all-access day package costs B1,350, or B650 for swimming only. Kids below 90cm tall go free, while entry for kids between 90-120cm is B350. 4/2 Srisoonthorn Rd., 076-602-435. bluetree.fun

The riverside is gearing up to welcome Capella Bangkok and Four Seasons Hotel in early 2020. Capella will feature 101 suites and villas (from a cool B27,500/night), alongside Côte Capella, a Mediterranean-leaning French-Italian opening from lauded Italian-Argentine chef Mauro Colagreco, whose three-Michelin-starred restaurant Mirazur in Menton, France, currently stands at no. 1 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Meanwhile, Four Seasons promises 299 rooms (from B15,300/night), along with The Social Club, a bar led by the hotel’s high-flying beverage manager and mixologist, Philip Bischoff—former bar manager of Singapore’s esteemed Manhattan—which is set to offer Latin American and pre-prohibition era concoctions. Both properties are now available for advance booking. 300/1 and 300/2

now open to tourists

Stay Tuned! Coming out February 2020

Plus: More Pages More Listings More Activities More Fun! FOR BOOKINGS, please call 02-624-9696 (Sales dept) or email advertising@asia-city.co.th

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food & drink | news

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 22, 2019

HOT OFF THE PASS

Don’t miss chef Prin Polsuk’s Thai omakase counter

RUBBING SHOULDERS

After a short hiatus, one of Bangkok’s most exciting chef Prin Polsuk has returned full force with an all-new private dining kitchen, Samrub for Thai. Prin surprised us all last year when he left his job as head chef of Nahm for a position at Bangkok Edition Hotel. Tucked in the back Charoenkrung’s 100 Mahaseth, his welcoming new omakase-style kitchen offers a 10-seat counter bar that looks over the kitchen, where he and his team whip up neoclassical Thai dishes with hints of Chinese influence. While the tasting menu will change monthly according to seasonal ingredients, you can expect to have three canapes, five sharing-style main dishes and one dessert for B3,200-B4,500. With recipes dating back to the Rama VI period, you’ll get to relive Thai history through dishes like Tenfold Fish Dumplings, made with snakehead fish and topped with crispy garlic and mustard leaf. The spicy curry made with sweet banana, catfish, green peppercorn and sand ginger might leave you breathing fire, but you’ll always go back for more. A sure winner is the crab and rosella salad—an herbaceous mix of sweet, sour and spicy notes with crab legs big enough to crack open with your hands. Dessert features a soothing fresh-made ginger ice cream, served with patongo (fried dough) and coconut honey. For cocktails and drinks, you can rely on 100 Mahaseth’s trusty menu for the time being. 100 Mahaseth, 100 Mahaset Rd., Wed-Thu 7-11pm; Fri-Sun 7pm-midnight; Sun midnight-5pm; Mon midnight-11pm

www.ducasse-paris.com

GOT THE BLUES

GETTIN’ TIPSY

GET STUFFED

09 Details emerge about Alain Ducasse’s first restaurant in Thailand

10 There’s just one week left to have a BAD Night Out

11 Get in the holiday spirit with Gaa’s festive brunch

This November, our readers have been propping up bars across the city for BAD Night Out. Now in the final run, BK’s first ever cocktail-hopping event has seen 40 of Bangkok’s best bars offer special menus at set prices of just B800++ for three drinks. You can still catch Find the Photo Booth, Seen, Jacqueline and more between Nov 22-23, or book ABar, Iron Balls, Honest Mistake, Uncle Tim and more for next week (Nov 27-30). For the full line-up and to book, visit bkrestaurantweek. com/badnightout.

What better way to gear up for Christmas than stuffing your face? From Dec 21-Jan 1 (weekends and Christmas Day, 12-4pm) Gaa’s special festive weekend brunch menu will get you in the spirit with its line-up of favorites from Asia’s Best Female Chef. Chef Garima Arora’s 10-course set lunch menu (from B3,400-B4,000) is not yet set in stone, but hits like Gaa’s grilled young corn served with corn milk; crab and coconut; and lamb keema pav with fresh greens and pickles are promised, with vegetarian options also available. It may not be turkey and stuffing, but when it’s 30 degrees outside, who cares about tradition? 68/4 Sarasin Rd., 091-419-2424

Blue by Alain Ducasse is set to open at IconSiam by the end of the year. It will be helmed by executive chef Wilfrid Hocquet, a French native who has a long resume of stints in Michelin-starred kitchens ranging from Daniel in New York to three-Michelin-starred Le Louis XV by Alain Ducasse in France. With over 30 restaurants around the world, Alain Ducasse is one of the world’s most celebrated French chefs. He’s known for breaking Michelin records and is one of only two chefs whose restaurants have notched as many as 21 stars. Expect Blue to live up to the legendary French chef’s lofty standards.

GET ROASTED Bangkok’s best hangover cure just got even better thanks to brunch pioneer Roast. Available as of this week, its brand spanking new menu takes things to the next level with house-cured guanciale, housesmoked bacon and more. This is some drool-worthy stuff.

GETTING WETTER Dry season may be upon us, but by March you can expect the follow up to the short-lived but muchloved wine bar Wet. From Gaggan Anand’s longterm sommelier, Vladimir Kojic, Wetter promises to bring a fun-loving party vibe to “low-intervention” wines.

ON TAP First Taipei, then Hong Kong, now Bangkok. In partnership with the Rabbit Hole team, Taiwanese barman Angus Zou is opening the third branch of Draft Land, his trend-setting cocktails-on-tap bar, at The Commons Silom early next year.

YOU SAID WHAT?

The news in online foodie posts.

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“Been to his restaurant once, awesome food, even for a vegetarian.” FACEBOOK USER POOJA SAWHNEY ON GAGGAN ANAND’S NEW OPENING.

“Mrs Wu all the way the best bang for your buck!” FACEBOOK USER BEN GUNTANIT ON BANGKOK’S BEST HOTPOTS.

“Next level collab” FACEBOOK USER ELLIE KHODAYAR ON KONKORD—THE UPCOMING BAR FROM TROPIC CITY AND SUGAR RAY’S FOUNDERS.

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food & drink

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 22, 2019

ADVERTORIAL

FEAST OF A DEAL

Omakase Chef’s Choice Entrust yourself to the chef with these incredible menus Mihara Tofuten

How: It’s a landmark—the world’s first omakase restaurant focused soley on tofu. Renowned chef and Bangkok culinary icon Gaggan Anand designed the concept after a trip to Japan. It’s an innovative and thorough concept. The restaurant not only has tofu milk and tofu noodles, it even created tofu cheesecake. It’s not only just tofu though. Expect delicacies that also feature Kobe Beef, wagyu, fresh sea urchin, roe and more. Intersection of 159/3 South Sathorn Road and Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Soi 5, 083655-4245. Wed-Mon 11:30am-1:30pm, 6-11pm. BTS Chong Nonsi.

Get a complimentary Coconut Soymilk Cheesecake valued THB 500 when spending THB 2,000 or more /sales slip (limit 1 dish /card /table /sales slip) 15 Feb ’19 - 31 Jan ’20

Sushi Misaki

How: Shizuoka’s Masahiro Misaki relocated from Ginza Tokyo to open this Sukhumvit shop. His omakase features up to 20 items—appetizers, nigiri, rolls and dessert. Fish arrives from Tokyo three times a week, and the chef’s specialty is Edo—based on aging, curing and fermenting. G/F Rain Hill, Sukhumvit 47, 061-9623381. Mon–Sat 5:30–9pm. Between BTS Phrom Phong & BTS Thonglor.

Get a complimentary drink valued THB 300 when spending via Citi credit cards (limit 1 glass /card /table /sales slip) 01 Mar ’19 - 29 Feb ’20

Ginza Sushi Ichi

Mihara Tofuten

How: This restaurant has a mother branch in Ginza, Tokyo—and both spots boast Michelin stars. Bangkok’s is adjacent the famous Erawan Shrine. The omakase fish is flown in from Toyosu Market, and preparation and presentation are famously artistic. LG/F, Erawan Bangkok, 494 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-250-0014. Daily noon-2:30pm, 6-11pm. BTS Chitlom

Brought to you by Citi

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Get 10% discount when spending THB 10,000 or more /sales slip for lunch or get 10% discount when spending THB 17,000 or more /sales slip for dinner 01 Jan ’19 - 31 Dec ’19

Sushi Misaki

Ginza Sushi Ichi

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food & drink | open doors

12 Gaggan Anand is back The buzz: Following the closure of his eponymous Asia’s 50 Best-topper earlier this year, eminent chef and Netflix "Chef’s Table" star Gaggan Anand has unleashed his show-stopping 25-course tasting menus in Phrom Phong in characteristically raucous style. The vibe: Behind a leaf covered exterior draped in vines, the intimate 14-seat “G’s Spot” sits encased in glass, its low open-kitchen counter surrounded by green leather chairs. A salacious questionnaire— covering everything from diners’ political standings to favorite rock bands and sexual preferences—determines the crowd each night. Spurred on by a rock-heavy soundtrack, the highenergy chefs and sommeliers flit between interacting with diners and deftly executing extravagant plating. Wooden ramps lead up to the 40-seat “Arena G,” where individual tables are gathered around an open kitchen beneath a constellation of twinkling lights and moon-like orbs. The food: Both ground floor G’s Spot (B12,000/person with wine pairing and just one seating per night) and upstairs Arena G (B8,000 with four seatings per night) are treated to 25-course tasting menus, which take you on a bite-size journey through taste, texture and temperature, from

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hot-and-cold scallop and ikura “meteorites” to white chocolate halos that burst with icy liquid. Seasonal ingredients and unusual cuts are treated to scientific techniques—think fish dry-aged inside ice blocks—accompanied by insights into sustainability. In G’s Spot, flavors inspired by Thailand, India, Portugal and Japan come with history lessons from Gaggan and his team, punctuated by lighthearted banter and drinking games. While he makes nods to his old concept—from the emoji menu to the plate-licking—these elements don’t just reinvent the wheel. The drinks: You’ll have to pace yourself to survive the nine drink pairings, which chart biodynamic wines hand-picked from smallscale producers and the occasional sake. Prepare to have your love of Austrian wine consolidated, and your preconceptions of “New World” wines challenged. Why we’d come back: There’s no other dining experience quite like this. Despite the fame, Anand remains a regular master of ceremonies, displaying an inspiring level of energy and love for the task. Angela Symons 68 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 098-883-1022

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 22, 2019

Stage

TABLE TALK

OLTA

NEW AND NOTED

13 A former Robuchon 14 Three ex-Nahm chef is behind this chefs converge at French opening Charoenkrung’s curry Scandinavian minimalism meets hotspot Parisian chic at Ekkamai’s Stage (1/F, 59/2-3 Sukhumvit Soi 63, 02002-5253), where seasonal tasting menus (four courses B1,900; six courses B2,900; eight courses B3,900) are led by former L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon chef Jay Sangsingkaew. French cooking techniques combine with Asian produce in dishes like the Furano wagyu Hokkaido A5, a decadent truffle hot dog and red mullet served with young bamboo, while the eight-course menu stars caviar, otoro and lobster. Playful takes on nostalgic classics like baba au rhum and a French-leaning wine list curated by former Robuchon sommelier Louis Pronritt complete the experience.

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A trio of former David Thompson-era Nahm chefs have joined hands for Charmgang Curry Shop (14 Nakhon Kasem Soi 5, 081-822-0182), where monthly-changing set menus each encompass a curry dish, steamed rice, soup, salad and something sweet. Right now, you’ll find their signature curry with smoked kingfish and pennywort (B560) and the Narathiwat beef curry (B600) with raw banana. Don’t miss the tangerine relish (B580) served with grilled tiger prawns and a choice of side dishes. Though petite, the shop makes a grand impression with its bold red and black Chineseretro decor, masterminded by interior designer Shelley Kwok. Reservations are recommended.

15 Sample Italian cafe culture at this deli-style opening With its upscale deli vibe, Caffe Olives (4 Soi Napha Sap 2, 094-8589868) is part of soon-to-open restaurant L’Oliva Italian. Head here for Italian bites covering cold cuts and cheese, sandwiches like the Panino (B190)—loaded with truffle, mushroom and cheese—and Roman-style pizza by the slice in everything from spicy Nduja Mushroom (B100) to the Bianca (B100), stuffed with mortadella then brushed with olive oil and Maldon salt. For something light, grab pastries like the honey bun (B75) or brioche cinnamon bun (B75), paired with a fancy rosemary caffe latte (B100) or refreshing organic lemonade (B120).

101/11 Suanphlu Rd. 094-656-2159. Open Mon-Fri 5pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 11:30am-2pm and 5pmmidnight. BTS Chong Nonsi. Scottish restaurateur Jamie Wakeford and his partner Helen made their name in Phuket, before moving to Bangkok earlier this year. Olta is the result—a modern British restaurant and bar in Suan Phlu that serves weekend brunch, coffee, after work drinks, dinner and more. The space boasts high ceilings, marble tile floors and grayscale artwork, and the menu is full of reinterpreted Western dishes with fresh local produce—not only Thai fish, crab and mushrooms, but even Thai camembert cheese. Olta, for the record, is Gaelic slang for "to drink" and fittingly, the cocktails are strong and easy-drinking.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get a complimentary Scotch Egg valued THB 110 when spending via Citi credit card (limit 1 dish /card /table / sales slip) 01 Oct ’19 – 30 Sep ’20

11/15/19 6:20 PM

Shun by Yanagiya

Baan Tepa

TABLE TALK

White Lies

NEW AND NOTED

153 Peninsula Plaza, Ratchadamri Rd., 065-319-8877. Open Mon-Sat 6:30pm-midnight. BTS Ratchadamri.

16 Phrom Phong gets another den for serious drinkers

17 One of Japan’s best restaurants hits Bangkok

18 Local ingredients are core to this new opening

This Japanese-style bar has generated a slow-burning buzz that should carry it well into 2020. Located somewhere inside the Metropole Residence, Bar 335 (Soi Promsri, Sukhumvit 39, 092-545-6419) is all about balance and simplicity. That means stripped-down versions of the classics that put the focus on the spirits. Think aged Suntory highballs, a riff on the New York Sour called the New York Lemon Cream (B380) and a bacon fat-washed old fashioned (B440). Expect dim lighting, minimal décor and a small space that encourages conversation.

A sister restaurant of Gifu prefecture’s two-Michelin-starred Tabelog Gold award-winner Yanagiya—once hailed by The Guardian as possibly “the best restaurant on the planet”—Shun by Yanagiya (3/F, Donki Mall, Thonglor Soi 10/Ekkamai Soi 5) has big boots to fill. A joint venture with the owner-investor of Bangkok’s Menya Itto, Ginza Tenharu and Odtomato, the omakase-style opening breaks away from the wild animal-heavy, regional cuisine of its invitation-only forerunner, instead treating unagi , Khao Yai chicken, wagyu, line-caught fish, red prawns and acorn-fed Iberico pork to its Yanagiya-style charcoal-cooking across 15 courses (B4,800/person).

Ramkhamheang’s Baan Tepa (2369 Ramkhamheang Rd., 098-267-8266) is part urban farm, part restaurant. Here, chef Tam Chudaree Debhakam of Top Chef Thailand (Season 1) shoots for zero waste by, for example, sourcing non-GMO chickens from Nakhon Pathom, preserving food by pickling, aging, curing and fermenting—including fermenting koey (opossum shrimp) from Chumphon for the house “fish sauce” and aging wagyu from Surin with koji. Meanwhile, rare organic teas are sourced from Mae Salong. The culinary space does more than just support small and medium size farms, though. It also serves as a research and development center for indigenous Thai ingredients.

Chef Maurizio Menconi goes somewhere no culinary mastermind likely has—an Italian inspired multi-course omakase menu. A veteran of five-star hotel chains builds dishes from the finest ingredients around the world. Expect up to 14 courses; all served in an intimate dining room heavy with marble, and hanging crystal. Either choose non-pairing courses or premium courses paired with exquisite wine selections and rare vintages selected by expert sommeliers.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get a complimentary Edible Sea Shell valued THB 400 when spending via Citi ULTIMA, Prestige, Premier, Mercedes, ROP Prefer and Select (limit 1 dish /card /table / sales slip) (Valid only upon confirming at the time of the booking) 01 Nov ’19 – 30 Nov ’20

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11/18/19 12:25 PM

food & drink | taste test

No booze, no problem Alcohol-free beers have finally arrived in Bangkok. And considering our well-documented problems with drunk driving and overconsumption, not a moment too soon, either. If you’re trying to drink less—or not drink at all—pour those mocktails down the drain and try one of these malty, booze-free beers instead. By BK Staff

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 22, 2019

Krombacher Weizen

Bavaria Original BK Pick!

The brand: One of Germany’s oldest privately owned breweries, dating back to the 1300s. The alcohol-free weizen debuted in 2019 following the success of the brand’s boozeless pilsner. The beer: Pours cloudy yellow and smells fruity and hoppy. It’s creamy and tastes a bit like banana bread—in other words, the wheat beer you know and love but without the alcohol. Verdict: We’ll take six, please. The price: B147 Available at: Villa Market, Wishbeer, Central Food Hall

Heineken 0.0

Runner The brand: The ubiquitous brand known for its green Up! bottles and cans hails from the Netherlands, but it operates a brewing facility in Nonthaburi. Its new 0.0 release promises the flavor of the original but with only 69 calories. The beer: This is beer—just watery, shitty beer. For many beer drinkers, this is a good thing. Verdict: Tastes like Heineken. The price: B39 Available at: Villa Market, Tops, 7-Eleven, Family Mart—pretty much everywhere.

Oettinger Alcohol-free

The brand: The Bayern-based brewery is the Chang of Germany: cheap as chips and just really not good. The beer: Pours a fizzy, pale yellow and looks a bit like Champagne (spoiler: it’s not). Smells like honey and chrysanthemum, and tastes like a watered-down soft drink. Verdict: Did we accidentally buy Fanta? The price: B129 Available at: Villa Market, Wishbeer, Central Food Hall

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The brand: Run by family-owned Royal Swinkels, Bavaria is one of two Dutch giants (along with Heineken) actively promoting its non-alcoholic beer in Thailand. The beer: Slightly acrid and hoppy on the nose. A bit fruity and honey-like, reminding us baklava, for some reason. Verdict: Sweet and sour. The price: B45 Available at: Gourmet Market, Central Food Hall

Hite 0.0

The brand: Hite Brewery makes South Korea’s most popular beer, which you may have previously enjoyed with several shots of soju. The beer: Smells okay. It has a lychee-like taste, which doesn’t exactly scream “beer.” Not awful, but not great, either. Verdict: Geonbae! The price: B50 Available at: Villa Market, Family Mart, Gourmet Market, Isetan, Home Fresh Mart

Krombacher Pils Alcohol Free

Yikes!

The brand: One of Germany’s pioneers of alcohol-free beer is now making in-roads abroad. The brand is highly popular among endurance athletes and health-conscious drinkers. The beer: Smells like Chef Boyardee but tastes like rotten sweet potato. Totally undrinkable. Weighed up against the flavor of Krombacher’s weizen, how is this even possible? Verdict: High highs to low lows. The price: B99 Available at: Villa Market, Wishbeer, Central Food Hall

11/18/19 12:26 PM

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 22, 2019

OUR ANNUAL WISH LIST SHINES A SPOTLIGHT ON THE MUST-HAVE PRODUCTS FOR

2020.

PLUS ALL THE BEST FESTIVE DINNERS AND PARTIES, SPA AND STAYCATION PACKAGES, MEMBERSHIP DEALS AND SO MUCH MORE, ALL IN ONE PLACE. FOR BOOKINGS, PLEASE CALL 02-624-9696 OR EMAIL ADVERTISING@ASIA-CITY.CO.TH

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11/15/19 4:54 PM

11/15/19 5:34 PM

dining reviews

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 22, 2019

Mia HHHH 30 Soi Atthakawi 1, Sukhumvit 26, 02-258-6745. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight. BBB

like foie gras doughnuts with prune jam (B360)—a ridiculous-sounding combination that nevertheless works—and pecorino- and truffle-stuffed churros (B250), the kind of finger food you could picture yourself shamelessly nibbling on while watching low-rent movies at home. Mia often knocks it out of the park—try the standout salmon fillet with ikura salsa and potato velouté (B620) and the spit-roasted pineapple with piña colada ice cream (B290), or order the 10-course Taste of Mia (B1,850) to try the choicest cuts—but some dishes leave you wanting more. On our last visit, the roasted duck breast (B720) was chewy and underdone while the passionfruit sorbet served atop whipped cheesecake (B300) overpowered the palate with its eye-popping acidity. They’re close, but not surefire hits. The same can be said about the drinks. The punchy gin- and Pisco-based Thrill of the Dill (B340) would stand out at any bar, but the Kentuky Sundae (B380)—basically a Manhattan with ristretto syrup—tastes one-dimensional. The floor staff is excellent, however, so tell them what flavors you like, let them guide you to sound choices and expect to come again. Mia has staying power.

It hasn’t been the most exciting year in the city’s restaurant scene. Despite the relative inactivity, a few noteworthy places did open their doors in 2019. Foremost among them, Mia, a project owned by Julien Imbert—the London-based chef of Sketch, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal and City Social fame—and run by rising culinary power couple Top Russell and Michelle Goh. Set back in the bowels of Sukhumvit 26, Mia most definitely qualifies as a destination restaurant, unless you happen to be a K Village regular or East Asian expat. Past a gravel parking lot packed with Mercedes coupes in a dead-end soi you’ll find a carefully renovated two-story house that laughs in the face of modern industrial and minimalist design principles. The ground floor features both a glass-encased kitchen and a bar space decorated with gilded geometric wallpaper, brass accents—including de rigueur pineapple centerpieces—and squirrel cage bulbs. This is child’s play compared to the influencer-baiting whimsy at work upstairs. There you can choose to dine in a room plastered with William Morris wallpaper, another bursting with pastels and tropical plants, or a third so dark it feels like state secrets are being whispered among guests. Somewhat surprisingly, all of this is rather fun, and it complements the work being done in the kitchen, where pastry chef Goh flexes her Suhring-trained muscles and Top— BK’s Young Chef of the Year in 2018—turns out “modern European” dishes. That’s shorthand for “I’ll do what I want here.” Hence snacks

Order: Churros (B250), hot smoked salmon (B620), grilled broccolini (B150), roasted pineapple (B290), Thrill of the Dill (B340)

FOOD DRINKS SETTING SERVICE VALUE

D’ark at Emquartier H G/F, Emquartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-003-6013.

to nail, fails to impress. On our last visit, despite it being served in a skillet, it was room temperature. The saving grace should be the coffee, but at B115++ for a piccolo, you’re better off going to Roast, where your coffee will come in a proper ceramic cup rather than a water glass.

Walk past Emquartier’s waterfall-facing D’ark any weekend, and you’ll find it packed with the city’s upscale casual crowd—personal trainers, hi-so in D&G shades, loafered expats with pure bred dogs. This might suggest that the food here is actually good. But chic dripping bulbs, dark wood furniture and an inscrutable popularity among the city’s well-heeled just can’t make up for broken hollandaise. Not to mention “smashed avocado” on the fried chicken eggs Benedict (B390) that gives the dish an off-putting creaminess. Even the Spanish cocotte (B350), which should be easy

FOOD DRINKS SETTING SERVICE VALUE

Ratings H Forget it HH Only if you’re in the neighborhood HHH A pleasant dining experience HHHH Not to be missed HHHHH Flawless

B BB BBB BBBB

BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

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Price guide Under B500 B500-1,000 B1,000-2,000 B2,000-3,000 BBBBB Over B3,000

Order: Grilled seasonal fish, braised meats, crab tart

bk.asia-city.com/ restaurants

11/15/19 5:35 PM

food | broke bougie

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 22, 2019

In the Shadows Thonglor is more than just a posh party zone. Here’s where you can go to dip into the past and eat well for cheap in Bangkok’s hippest real estate. By Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj

ust a few decades ago, Thonglor was the outskirts of town, all fields and canals. Fast-forward to today, and the neighborhood has a reputation for being a pricey party district, an extended Japanese strip mall and, increasingly, a hi-so hellscape. Hidden between all the upscale cafes, nightclubs and community malls, however, is the Thonglor of old. Want to experience that slow-living, sepia-toned community? Visit these decades-old shophouses and chew the fat with the aunties and uncles—the real Thonglor cool kids—who have witnessed the rapid rise of the neighborhood and are keeping the past alive.

Sukhu

Sukhumvit 53

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Tang Meng Get off at BTS Thonglor, walk past Broccoli Revolution and soon you’ll come across a family-run shophouse that sells the slightly unusual combination of khao mun gai and noodles. The proprietor—a woman known as Auntie Kim, who’s usually found sitting in the corridor, overlooking the business—notes that her family has been feeding people for over 60 years. Today, the shop stands out for its perfectly plump pork-and-shrimp dumplings as well as its stark contrast to the surrounding skyscrapers. “There are a lot of tall buildings in Thonglor now. Back in the day, all of this used to be canals,” she says. “But what can you do?” Must-try dishes: Yentafo (B50), khao mun gai (B50), longan juice (B15). 887 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-258-7202. Open Mon-Sat 8am-5pm

Zaew In 1962, when this family-owned joint opened on Sukhumvit Soi 49, a bowl of noodles cost just B1.25. When the current owner (known affectionately as Uncle Kee) moved Zaew to its Sukhumvit-facing home in 1983, the handmade noodles had only jumped in price to B10. Today, they go for a pocket-friendly B50, and the old-school attention to detail and serving portions haven’t changed, either. “I’ve been living in Thonglor since the roads were canals,” says Uncle Kee, echoing Auntie Kim. “We can’t really do anything with all the modern stuff [here]; we just have to adapt to fit in.” Must-try dishes: Tom yum noodles (B50), fish dumplings (B70). 1093 Sukhumvit Rd., 091-7805604. Open Mon-Wed 7am-4pm; Fri-Sun 7am-4pm

BTS Thong Lor

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feature

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 22, 2019

Why living in Thonglor has never been more affordable

Thonglor Pochana Everybody knows Wattanapanit, the beef noodle shop in Ekkamai, where they’ve used the same base broth for decades. We’ve found—dare we say— an equally amazing alternative right on Thonglor. They’ve been feeding people for over 30 years here. Today, you’ll find the middle-aged, second-generation owner taking orders when you walk in and a woman making noodles at the front, who seems to always be shouting (she’s actually very sweet). Good luck striking up conversation, though—this place gets packed. Must-try dishes: Beef noodles (B60). 359/5 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 081-629-0735. Open daily 7am-5pm

Boon Tong Kiat This Singaporean khao mun gai place has been open for almost 20 years. Proprietor Tik was a regular at the original on Thonglor Soi 12, Man Tong Kiat; when the owner wanted to move back to Singapore, Tik and her late husband took it over and changed the name to Boon Tong Kiat after the chef’s mother, Boontong. “Thonglor has developed so fast in the last 20 years. More condos, more pubs and bars. The price of things used to be more affordable, but now it’s rare to pay less than B200-300 [for food or drinks],” says Tik. “We’re trying to keep our prices affordable for everyone, even if our rent has doubled since we started.” Must-try dishes: Khao mun gai (chicken and rice, B70-85), khao moo grob (crispy roasted pork belly, B75-89), spare rib soup with green gourd (B65). 440/5 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-390-2508. Open daily 10am9:45pm

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T Super by T. Thai Charoen When you’re going out for a bowl of yentafo at Tang Meng, you’ll walk past a vintage-looking independent supermarket with big, red-and-white signage. Step inside to find everything from fresh herbs and vegetables to kitchen items and cleaning products. Auntie Hong is usually on standby at cashier number one—just as she’s been for decades. “My family moved here around 72 years ago, when it was just fields and canals. Thanks to that, we were safe from the bombing during World War II,” she says. “Our shop has been open for 58 years, and every few years we try to do more new things to keep up with the pace of Thonglor.” 921 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Sukhumvit Soi 49 and 51), 02-2587820. Open daily Mon-Sat 8:30am9pm; Sun 9am-9pm

On top of all the very affordable food, it’s never been a better time to go apartment-hunting in Thonglor. According to the Bangkok Post, Bangkok land prices are expected to stay flat or drop this year for the first time in over a decade. We spoke to Panon Leelamanit, business development manager in the overseas business unit at Raimon Land Plc.—one of Thailand’s biggest real estate developers— about why you should be bargaining hard now for a bougie Thonglor condo. IS THIS A GOOD TIME TO BUY PROPERTY IN BANGKOK? Right now, it’s a buyer's market. If you’re looking to buy a second-hand property today, prices are definitely better. And if you’re buying new-build real estate direct from developers, you’re getting better products and promotions than any other time in the past decade. What that means is: if you’re buying for self-occupancy, this is the best time to do it. AND WHAT SHOULD BUYERS BE DOING? Ask for promotions or deals, and don’t rush into a decision. Stick to the key principles: is this a good location for me to live in? Is the layout functional for me? Is the view great? What is the developer’s track record? Are the projects they’ve delivered still desirable today?

WHAT ABOUT RENTING? Right now, tenants are getting great deals. A significant portion of rental demand comes from the expat community, and it hasn’t outgrown the new supply of condominiums, which is coming in at a much faster pace. So the power is in your hands. ANY ADVICE? Don’t simply browse for prices around the web and think that’s the price you’ll be getting—most published rents are “asking” and not “closing” prices. If you’re staying in a not-so-new development, check the listings in your building to see how many units are available. Higher numbers mean better negotiating power.

11/15/19 5:39 PM

food | herbal high

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 22, 2019

Better Homes and Gardens

Think you need a garden to get on board with the homegrown movement? Think again. Tame Bangkok’s urban jungle from the comfort of your own condo with this green-thumbed guide. By Willy Thorn

Aloe Vera

Coriander

Lemons and Limes

Why: To treat sunburn. Aloe can also lower blood pressure and even encourage hair growth. Who needs hair plugs anyway?

Why: So you can perfect your guac recipe and show all those Mexican restaurants who’s boss.

Why: Have you checked the price of lemons lately?

Carrots

How: Plant your seeds three inches apart in a mix of soil and sand to facilitate water flow. Thorough watering is more important than frequent watering, so be sure to water until it seeps out the drainage holes. But only water when the soil is dry to the touch. Keep it in a sunny spot.

Why: Packed with fiber, potassium and vitamins A and K.

Durian

How: Only baby carrots will grow indoors. The trick is getting a box with deep soil—at least a foot-and-a-half down. Carrots also require plenty of light and moist soil. Seeds sprout in about two weeks; as the greens grow, brush aside the soil to see the top of the carrot. When the top is fingertip-sized, pull it out, as overgrown carrots can be bland.

Why: The king of fruits will make you a killing when Chinese tourists come to town, and it can also repel nosy neighbors.

How: It requires a lot of sun, but very little water or care. Water it once a week and forget about it. If it wilts, it either needs more sun or you have a total black thumb.

Chilis Why: To feed your addiction. How: Sow the seeds in compost in a planting tray; water and cover in clingfilm to create a mini greenhouse. Keep somewhere warm to germinate (light is not important) and keep the compost moist. When they begin to sprout, transfer them to direct sunlight. Once small sets of leaves appear, transplant them to larger, deeper pots.

Chives Why: A flavorful garnish for soups and salads, plus the green chutes look great on windowsills. How: Fill a six-inch pot with pre-moistened soil, scatter the seeds on top and then cover with a thin layer of soil. Place in a sunny spot, rotating daily to ensure the plant gets an even spread. Water whenever the soil is dry to the touch.

How: Are you serious?

Garlic Why: To fend off vampires and mosquitoes. How: Take a regular clove, husk and all, and plant it flat end down around two inches deep, in an eight inch deep pot. To grow garlic greens, you can plant cloves close together, whereas to cultivate bulbs, you’ll need to place them four inches apart. Find someplace with at least six hours of sunlight per day, and keep the soil slightly moist.

Ginger Why: It’s a superfood that calms nausea, reduces inflammation and can be dried, juiced and made into tea. Wannabe home bartenders can also infuse simple syrups and vodka with it. How: Soak a fresh ginger root in warm water overnight. Ginger grows horizontally, so you’ll need to plant it in a wide, shallow pot. Keep it in a warm place away from direct light. The challenge is keeping the soil moist, but not waterlogged. As it grows, you can literally cut chunks off and replant it again.

Holy Basil Why: For pad kaprao. How: Place seeds in a pot and cover then with a quarter inch of soil. Position the pot somewhere with partial morning sunlight and keep the soil moist by spraying. Once you have two or three sets of leaves, carefully uproot them and replant them in separate pots.

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How: It’s easiest to purchase a tree that’s a few years old, then give it a deep water once a week. Place the pot in an area with plenty of light and room to grow—you can expect the tree to reach three-to-five feet. When the fruit softens to the touch, it’s ready to pick.

Mint Why: Mint soothes hangovers. Or so we’re told. How: In a deep wide pot, mint will grow like wildflowers. It requires plenty of indirect sunlight and moist soil, so water it just a little, but often. Mint can even be grown in a water-filled bottle—just take a five-inch cutting from a mint plant, place in water and set it in a sunny window.

Oranges Why: For fiber and vitamin C, or as a replacement pick-me-up for your morning coffee. How: Purchase a dwarf tree, keep it situated in healthy sun and rotate it. As it grows, it will need to be repotted. Let the soil dry between waterings and pluck the fruit as soon as it turns orange.

Tomatoes Why: For a splash of color. Also, Thai tomatoes are mostly terrible. How: Tomatoes require large pots, moist soil, a lot of sun (eight-10 hours/day) and regular rotation with light on every side. As they grow, they may become top-heavy and need to be staked. Tap or shake the plant lightly when it flowers to germinate the fruit. Tomatoes grown indoors are smaller, but no less delicious. Fertilizer also helps. Other condo-friendly plants: Turmeric, galangal, lettuce, butterfly pea, cucumbers, pumpkin, cantaloupe (rock melon), pineapple, dragon fruit and mushrooms.

11/15/19 5:41 PM

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 22, 2019

GUIDES Reach affluent urbanites through trusted publications with a six-month to one-year shelf-life.

To be featured in our upcoming 2019 guides, contact us at advertising@asia-city.co.th, 02-624-9696

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11/15/19 4:25 PM

neighborhood | pan road

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 22, 2019

Wander

Opus

Persian House

Sri Maha Mariamman Temple

Down the Pan Home to diverse restaurants, quaint cafes, old-school bakeries, a cool photo gallery and an iconic Hindu temple, this pleasant little street is Sathorn’s hidden gem. Here’s what life is like on Pan Road. By Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley

D.K. Bakery

Kathmandu Photo Gallery

Coffee & Breakfast Head to Luka (64/3 Pan Rd., 02-637-8558) for espresso (B70) and comfort dishes like bacon and butter French toast (250) and breakfast burritos (B310). Hip hostel Warm Window Silom (50/18-19 Pan Rd., 02-235-8759) offers all-day American breakfast (B150) and Thai-style breakfasts of soft-boiled eggs and kaya toast with traditional Thai coffee (B100), while Printa Cafe (36/2 Pan Rd., 095-542-4575) serves potent Vietnamese coffee (B80) and eggs Benny (from B190). Generations-old D.K. Bakery (741 Silom Rd., 02-233-8352) and Ama Bakery (745 Silom Rd., 02-6352278) make incredible kaya buns.

Lunch & Dinner Don’t miss the lusciously rich massaman with chunks of simmered pork on rice (B50-70), served alongside naam prik lohng reua (ground pork and cured egg yolk

fried with chili and shrimp paste relish), from the long-established Krua Aroi Aroi (4 Pan Rd., 02-6352365) or the generous servings of fresh spring rolls (B30) and tasty yentafo from Yen Ta Fo Wat Khaek (8 Pan Rd., 02-236-4393). The newly opened Wander (64 Pan Rd., 02-235-6848) doles out Thai fusion dishes from mama kua gai onsen (B130) to tom yum spaghetti (B260), while oldie-but-goodie Chinese restaurant Taitong (50/39 Pan Rd., 081-566-8856) whips out braised abalone (starts at B3,000), guay tiew Shanghai (B260) and stirfried fish maw (B300-500). For Indian and Middle Eastern food, Chennai Kitchen (107/4 Pan Rd., 02-234-1266) serves tasty panjavarna uthappam (“Indian pizza” with chutney, B140), Suananda Vegetarian Garden & Ayurveda (109 Pan Rd., 080-805-4318) cranks out Southern Indian-style dosa with spinach paneer (B195),

Warm Window Silom

Annapurna (50-48/6 Pan Rd., 02365-2211) goes the north Indian route with aromatic mutton rogan josh (B200) and Persian House (48/2-3 Pan Rd., 02-635-2674) makes a mean khoresht ghormeh sabzi (slow-cooked beef stew with fresh herbs, B220).

Drinks Enjoy a bottle of Chianti from the walk-in cellar at stylish Italian wine bar and restaurant Opus (64 Pan Rd., 02-637-9899). Continue your wine journey while enjoying towering views of lower Silom and the Chao Phraya at neighboring Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant (37/F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd., 096-860-7990). For cocktails, Wander offers all the classics, from Negronis and margaritas to whiskey sours and mojitos (all B300).

Transport BTS Surasak is less than a 10minute stroll away.

Accommodation Pabhada Silom (111 Pan Rd., 02267-8881) starts from B20,000/ month for a 60-sq-meter one bedroom apartment, while The Room Sathorn (78 Pan Rd., 02343-8900) offers 49-sq-meter one bedrooms starting from B24,000/ month. A 65-sq-meter two bedroom apartment at The Treasure (91 Pan Rd., 02-238-6555) starts from B33,000/month.

Visit Get cultured at sacred Sri Maha Mariamman Temple (2 Pan Rd., 02-238-4007), or Wat Khaek , Bangkok’s most important Hindu place of worship, before checking out some of the finest photography exhibitions from top local artists at Kathmandu Photo Gallery (87 Pan Rd., 02-234-6700). Planning to redecorate? Casa Pagoda (64/1 Pan Rd., 02-258-1917) offers tasteful industrial-chic furniture and home decor.

BK ASKS

What’s special about Pan Road?

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MANIT SRIWANICHPOOM, FOUNDER OF KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY “It’s a cultural melting pot—at the start you have the popular Wat Khaek, while down the road you’ll find diverse cuisines, from Thai and Chinese to Indian and Persian.”

TANAWAT PHOOCHAROENSIL, OWNER OF D.K. BAKERY “I have to say Wat Khaek, as it’s the heart of the community. There’s lots of great eats here, too— my top picks go to Aroi Aroi and Taitong.”

KULSIRI CHAIYANOPPAKUL, FOUNDER OF WANDER “Although it’s located right in the city, Pan Road is still very peaceful. It has the right balance of residential and business, while also offering a great mix of cultures.”

11/14/19 5:45 PM

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