d e n i m b o o k 14
DNMSTDENIMDESINGFASHIONARTLIFE
DENIMIST 2011
DB DENIM BOOK
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DB DENIM B O O K
DENIMIST T U R K E Y
Since decades Denimist has developed know-‐how in denim finishing prior to garment manufacturing and also in jeans washing. Our customers derive benefit from this experience.For the fabric production we offer finishing chemicals which provide the demanded fabric properties such as good sewability, stiffness,elasticity and handle. The other field of our activity is the recommendation of laundring Procedures for ready-‐made clothing such as trousers, jackets or skirts, shirts. In doing so we have learned that many errors may occur in this complicated production process. The laundry, the last step in the sequence of producers, is faced to difficulties which are caused by previous inaccuracies. Therefore, a good cooperation among the steps of jeans manufacturing is required to avoid problems. Fabric producer, garment manufacturer and laundries have to work together to obtain the desired end result. By means of our contacts on both sides of the production process we are able to make our contribution. The technical stuff of Denimist is always ready to help our customers with eventual problems and to modify production procedures according to the respective requirements. Through our numerous contacts which we have got with denim producers, garment manufacturers and laundries during the years we support the team work among all sections of the jeans chain and make our know-‐how available to all of the parties concerned
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Agenda Introduction Overview of coating systems Coating products Applications Applications of Denimist products Examples
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Definition Coating means : one-‐sided, plane application of textile auxiliaries Limits: • • • •
Textile printing Nip-‐padding Spray-‐application Lamination
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• Special machines necessary for coating • Modular systems are most common • Coating station • Different knife systems
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We coat: • • •
Pastes with high viscosity Foams Hot melts
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After coating we need a stenter or dryer
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Drying and condensation, in the majority of cases in one step
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Crush-‐cylinder and calander are useful additional machinery
•
Printing screens can be used to apply coating pastes and foam
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•
Air knife
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Coating is affected by: • • • • • •
Rigidity/Elasticity (of fabric) Absorbency of the fabric Surface condition (roughness) Viscosity of the paste Solid content of the paste Knife profile
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Roller knife • Often used with a gap (between fabric and knife) • Add-‐on’s from 50 g/m² to 6,000 g/m² (wet) possible • Very high viscosities can be handled 3,000 mPas to 120,000 mPas possible • Very slick fabrics are coatable • Commonly used for application of stable foams
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Sharp profiles • • • •
Low penetration in the fabric Less dry-‐add-‐on Soft handle Strong inter-‐dependence with the surface of the fabric
Round profiles • Good adhesion • Higher stiffness • More dry-‐add-‐on
1 mm 3 mm sharp round
6 mm shoe
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Coating systems (application) Paste coating Pastes • Add thickener to adjust viscosity from 6,000 mPas to 20,000 mPas • Good mixer is essential • Defoaming not only for preparation but also for running on the fabric Paste coating • Closed surface after coating • Compaction of the fabric • Bad permeability to air • Good water-‐proof performance
Glossy surface
No foam or particles
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Coating systems (application) Foam coating • • • •
Air for dilution Less energy costs (less water to vaporize) Soft handle stitches are not bonded together Breathability with normal ( cheaper) polymers
Foam mixer (industry)
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Coating systems (application) Instable foam Instable foam does not destruct under normal conditions Instable means
• • •
• Foam destructs in heat • Foam destructs under the knife Preserves the porosity of the fabric No closed film In use for: • Sealing of the surface • Wash-‐out effects • Double-‐side coloration
Instable foam
Coated/porous
Air knife
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Coating systems (application) Stable Foam • • • •
• •
After drying it‘s still a foam Foam stabilizers necessary Application with roller knife and gap Drying at max. 100 °C • Instantly grout after drying • Don’t roll it up without grouting! Condensation, embossing and calandering in second step Calandering increases the adhesion
Stable foam Gap 0.2 to 2 mm Coated
Roller knife
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Knife System
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Double Side System
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Commabar System
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Case Knife System
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Engraved Roller System
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2 Roller System
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3 Roller Combi System
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Micro Roller System
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5 Roller System
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Reverse Roll System
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Rotary Screen System
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Dipping System
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Slot Die System
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Curtain Coating System
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Hotmelt Slot Die System
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Powder Scattering System
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Head Office
:
Kazimiye Mah. Karadeniz Cad. Kiliçoğlu AlDn Evler No: 37/5/21 Çorlu / Tekirdağ / TURKEY Ph: 90 282 673 62 40 Fax : 90 282 673 59 75 eyup@denimist.com.tr
Factory
:
Motor Yerleri Mevkii E-‐5 Uzeri Ulaş / Corlu / Tekirdag / TURKEY mustafa@denimist.com.tr
Pakistan
:
Plot No: 2/C Lane No: 3 Itehad Coom Phase – VI D.H.A Karachi / PAKISTAN Ph: 92-‐21-‐37820980 – 35348720 Cell : 92-‐300-‐214430 tanveer@denimist.com.tr
Bangladesh
:
Road 36 , House 15, F4, Gulshan 2, Dhaka /BANGLADESH Cell: 8801741393879 serkan@denimist.com.tr