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DENIMIST 2011
DB DENIM BOOK
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DB DENIM B O O K
DENIMIST T U R K E Y
Since decades Denimist has developed know-‐how in denim finishing prior to garment manufacturing and also in jeans washing. Our customers derive benefit from this experience.For the fabric production we offer finishing chemicals which provide the demanded fabric properties such as good sewability, stiffness,elasticity and handle. The other field of our activity is the recommendation of laundring Procedures for ready-‐made clothing such as trousers, jackets or skirts, shirts. In doing so we have learned that many errors may occur in this complicated production process. The laundry, the last step in the sequence of producers, is faced to difficulties which are caused by previous inaccuracies. Therefore, a good cooperation among the steps of jeans manufacturing is required to avoid problems. Fabric producer, garment manufacturer and laundries have to work together to obtain the desired end result. By means of our contacts on both sides of the production process we are able to make our contribution. The technical stuff of Denimist is always ready to help our customers with eventual problems and to modify production procedures according to the respective requirements. Through our numerous contacts which we have got with denim producers, garment manufacturers and laundries during the years we support the team work among all sections of the jeans chain and make our know-‐how available to all of the parties concerned
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History of Natural Indigo A variety of plants have provided indigo throughout history, but most natural indigo is obtained from those in the genus Indigofera, which are native to the tropics. In temperate climates indigo can also be obtained from woad (Isatis tinctoria) and dyer's knotweed (Polygonumtinctorum). The primary commercial indigo species in Asia was true indigo (Indigofera tinctoria, also known as Indigofera sumatrana). In Central and South America the two species Indigofera suffruticosa (Anil) and Indigofera arrecta (Natal indigo) were the most important. The plants of the genus Indigofera produce a much stronger dye that those of the Isatis (woad) family; however, dyer’s woad is much more easily cultivated and therefore more widely used than Indigofera, which needs a tropical climate. Isatis tinctoria grows up to approximately 1.50 m in height and can be harvested three times a year. Preparation of indigo dye with Indigofera tinctoria. A variety of plants have provided indigo throughout history, but most natural indigo is obtained from those in the genus Indigofera, which are native to the tropics. In temperate climates indigo can also be obtained from woad (Isatis tinctoria) and dyer's knotweed (Polygonumtinctorum). The primary commercial indigo species in Asia was true indigo (Indigofera tinctoria, also known as Indigofera sumatrana). In Central and South America the two species Indigofera suffruticosa (Anil) and Indigofera arrecta (Natal indigo) were the most important. The plants of the genus Indigofera produce a much stronger dye that those of the Isatis (woad) family; however, dyer’s woad is much more easily cultivated and therefore more widely used than Indigofera, which needs a tropical climate. Isatis tinctoria grows up to approximately 1.50 m in height and can be harvested three times a year.
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Four months after planting the seeds the leaves of the indigo plant start turning dark green which indicates good quality dye. The plants are cut off and made into small bundles.The leaves are then soaked in a large earthenware jar filled with water and left to be fermented in order to convert the glycoside indican which is naturally present in the plant to the blue dye indigotin. The precipitate from the fermented leaf solution is mixed with a strong base such as lye, pressed into cakes, dried, and powdered. The powder is then mixed with various other substances to produce different shades of blue and purple.Four months after planting the seeds the leaves of the indigo plant start turning dark green which indicates good quality dye. The plants are cut off and made into small bundles.The leaves are then soaked in a large earthenware jar filled with water and left to be fermented in order to convert the glycoside indican which is naturally present in the plant to the blue dye indigotin.
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The precipitate from the fermented leaf solution is mixed with a strong base such as lye, pressed into cakes, dried, and powdered. The powder is then mixed with various other substances to produce different shades of blue and purple. Indigofera Tinctoria in History The name indigo comes from the Roman term indicum, which means a product of India.This is somewhat of a misnomer since the plant is grown in many areas of the world, including Asia, Java, Japan, and Central America. Another ancient term for the dye is nil from which the Arabic term For blue, al-‐nil, is derived. The English word aniline comes from the same source. The color indigo, often associated with political power or religious ritual, has held a Significant Place in many world civilizations such as Mesopotamia, Egypt, Greece, Rome, Mesoamerica, Iran, and Africa for thousands of years. In the excavation of Thebes an indigo Garment dating from c. 2500 B.C. was found, for example example furthermore, the Hindu god Krishna is most often depicted in blue, human Sacrifices were
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often painted blue in ancient mayan culture, and the Virgin Mary is regularly imagined draped in blue clothes in Christian art. In Mesopotamia, a Neo -‐Babylonian cuneiform tablet of the 7th century BC gives a recipe for the dyeing of wool, where lapis-‐colored wool (uqnatu) is Produced by repeated immersion and airing of the cloth. The dye is first mentioned in a written source for Western Europe in The histories of Herodotus writing around 450 B.C.), who described its use in the mediterranean area. The Romans used merchants. Indigo plant used to be planted in Khuzestan and other Southernregions of Iran too. It was at the time of the Crusades, however, that indigo became one of the valued “spices” That Italian merchants acquired in Cyprus, Alexandria and Baghdad. These cities were themselves end points for caravans from the Far East. But the trade in indigo dye only became a Commercial force after 1498 with the opening of the sea route to India this is not to say that Europeans had no Other Way of obtaining deep blue dye. The woad plant, native to northern Italy, southern France, And parts of England and Germany, yielded indigo-‐colored dye from its leaves, but it was inferior to that Obtained from the indigo plant. This is not to say that Europeans had no other Way of obtaining deep blue dye. The woad plant, native to northern Italy, southern France, And parts of England and Germany, yielded indigo-‐colored dye from its leaves, but it was inferior to that obtained from the indigo plant quite naturally, the woad -‐growers of Europe (both peasants and princes) sought to protect their industry against the influx of affordable indigo in the 16th century. In 1598 indigo was prohibited in France and parts of Germany, and dyers had to swear, often on the pain of death, that they would not use that dye. Nevertheless, in the 17th century indigo became one of the chief articles of trade of both the Dutch and the British East India Companies. Dauril Alden argues that, in fact, the indigo supplies in India were not sufficient to meet the European demand in the 17th century and that is why indigo cultivation was taken up in the New World as well.
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In Japan, indigo became especially important in the Edo period ,, also called Tokugawa period, is a division of Japanese history running from 1603 to 1868) when it was forbidden to use silk, so the Japanese began to import and plant cotton. It was difficult to dye the cotton fiber except with indigo. Many years later the use of indigo is very much appreciated as a color for the summer Kimono Yukata, as the blue sea and the nature are recalled on this traditional clothing. An indigenous variety of indigo began to be cultivated by Spanish overseers on the plantations of Honduras and the Pacific slopes of Central America in the 1560s. The indigo plant was known to early Guatemalan colonialists by the Nahuatl word xiquilite, and the dye was known to contemporaries as “Guatemalan Indigo.” M. De Beauvais Raseau, writing about indigo cultivation in the Eighteenth Century, stated that the Native Americans also knew about extracting from the plant.
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They called it “Tlauhoylimihuitl” and used it to darken their hair. It seems that indigo production continued to increase throughout the 17th century in the New World. The French colony of Saint Domingo eventually became the major producer of indigo, and this dye was also of the best quality. The English gained their first indigo-‐producing colony in this part of the world in 1655 when they captured Jamaica
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Engraving of an indigo plantation in the French West Indies, 1760s This engraving shows slaves engaged in various jobs associated with indigo production. The steps are identified by number in the engraving; an accompanying explanation in the text in French describes each number. For example, no. 8, slave who carries the indigo plants into the storage tank or steeping trough; no. 9, slave who agitate/stir the indigo plants in the steeping trough with baskets attached to the end of poles); no. 10, indigo plants. M. Chambon, Le commerce de l’Amerique par Marseille (Avignon, 1764), I:365.
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However, it is unclear how important New World indigo was in the worldwide indigo market, as prices fluctuated and so did production numbers. By 1740 sugar had replaced indigo as the main crop of Jamaica, but, on the other hand, this was also the beginning of the indigo boom in South Carolina it seems that “Guatemalan indigo” did not enjoy as high a reputation in Europe as indigo from Asian countries. In 1746, when “A Friend to Carolina” wrote his tract encouraging the cultivation of indigo in South Carolina he emphasized the necessity of establishing a superior product: “All Kinds [of indigo dyes] are better or worse, as they are neat or pure; for those who make it in America, often maliciously mix it with Sand and Dirt, but the Cheat is easily discovered; as Indigo that is fine and pure will burn like Wax, and, when burnt, the Earth or Sand will remain.” He pointed out that in the Americas indigo dye was o6en made with the stems and branches of the plant instead of just with the leaves. He felt that this too might be detrimental to its quality -‐ “But one ought to have the Leisure and PaHence of the Indians, to undertake such a Work [stripping the leaves], and have Workmen as cheap as they are in that Country.” He pointed out that in the Americas indigo dye was o6en made with the stems and branches of the plant instead of just with the leaves. He felt that this too might be detrimental to its quality — “But one ought to have the Leisure and PaHence of the Indians, to undertake such a Work [stripping the leaves], and have Workmen as cheap as they are in that Country.” Raseau, who was captain of the miliHa on Saint Domingo prior to 1770, discusses the history of indigo in all the regions of the world where it could be grown. He gives various methods that were employed for extracHng the dye and then goes into greater detail on indigo producHon in South and Central America. His wonderful liXle book contains diagrams of the plants, the process of making indigo dye, as well as the ideal plantaHon. Indigo plantaHons did not require much labor except during July, August and September when the plants were cut, fermented and the dye was extracted. Because it was thought that the Indians were parHcularly suscepHble to the diseases that bred around the fermentaHon vats, plantaHon owners claimed that
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they did most of the field work, while Black slaves extracted the dye. In reality, the division of labor was probably not so strict parHcularly since Black slaves were in relaHvely short supply and were o6en more expensive to hire than the Indians.John Stedman in his "NarraHve of five years" expediHon described the extracHon of the dye throughly. Stedman was invited to view the process of making indigo dye at the plantaHon of the governor of Surinam and he gives the following account of it : When all of the verdure is cut off, the whole crop is Hed in bunches, and put into a very large tub with water, covered over with very heavy logs of wood by way of pressers: thus kept, it begins to ferment; in less than 18 hours the water seems to boil, and becomes of a violet or garter blue colour, extracHng all the grain or colouring maXer from the plant; in this situaHon. The liquor is drawn off into another tub, which is something less, when the remaining trash is carefully picked up and thrown away; and the very noxious smell of this refuse it is that occasions the peculiar unhealthiness which is always incident to this business Being now in the second tub, the mash is agitated by paddles adapted for the purpose, Hll by a skillful maceraHon all the grain separates from the water, the first sinking like mud to the boXom, while the laXer appears clear and transparent on the surface: this water, being carefully removed Hll near the coloured mass, the remaining liquor is drawn off into a third tub, to let what indigo it may contain also seXle in the boXom; a6er which, the last drops of water here being also removed, the sediment or indigo is put into proper vessels to dry, where being divested of its last remaining moisture, and formed into small, round, and oblong square pieces, it is become a beauHful dark blue, and fit for exportaHon. The best indigo ought to be light, hard, and sparkling." These blocks of indigo were what was so highly prized on the European market. Demand for indigo dramaHcally increased during the industrial revoluHon, in part due to the popularity of Levi Strauss's blue denim jeans. The natural extracHon process was expensive and could not produce the mass quanHHes required for the burgeoning garment industry. In 1865 the German chemist
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Johann Friedrich Wilhelm Adolf von Baeyer began working with indigo. His work culminated in the first synthesis of indigo in 1880 from o-‐ nitrobenzaldehyde and acetone upon addiHon of dilute sodium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, or ammonia and the announcement of its chemical structure three years later. BASF developed a commercially feasible manufacturing process that was in use by 1897. In 1905 Baeyer was awarded the Nobel Prize for his discovery.
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Workers in the indigo factory wearing denim work clothes, 1930s Jenny Balfour-‐Paul, Indigo (London: Bri-sh Museum Press, 1998), 85.
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“Indigo Manufacture in India,” from The Graphic, 1887 “Views from the Illustrated London News and The Graphic,” South Asia study resources compiled by Frances PritcheK, hKp://www. columbia.edu/itc/mealac/pritcheK/00routesdata/1800_1899/ dailylife_drawings/ilnviews/ilnviews.html
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