Issue 01 2018
Climb the tallest peaks
Nelson accomodation on any budget
A run-down of this year’s local music festivals
Q&A with adventure experts
NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2018
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VIET-MODERN CUISINE
522 Victoria St. Nelson, BC, Canada | www.yumson.ca | (778) 463-2234
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Nelson Adventure Magazine |2018
Welcome to Regional District of Central Kootenay Area E BALFOUR • KOOTENAY RIVER • WHITEWATER
Live Life to its Fullest!
From the breath-taking ride north over the Kootenay Lake Ferry and the unique shops and restaurants in Balfour to the quaint villages of Harrop and Procter and their famous cinnamon buns, heading northwest to the sparkling hills of Whitewater Ski Hill and the south shore’s luxurious sand at Taghum Beach in Blewett, the Regional District Of Central Kootenay’s Area E has a lot to offer. Play Her e! Balfour Golf Course, Balfour tennis courts and sports field, Eagleview Par 3 And Mini-Golf, Balfour Gym, Lang’s Marina, Sunshine Bay Park, with its Bike Skills Park and Boat Launch, Kokanee Creek Park and Visitor’s Centre and Kokanee Glacier Trails, Kokanee Park Marine, West Arm Park, Kokanee Zipline, Taghum Beach Park, Whitewater Ski Hill, Retreat Centers, Cottonwood Lake Park, Morning Mountain Bike and Hike Recreation Area, and the Great Northern Trail. Stay Her e! With lodges, bed and breakfasts suchsuch as Acorn Guest House, and breakfasts as Acorn Guest Black Dog Studio Air B&B, Harrop House , Kootenay House, Lakeview Spa and Hideaway, Kootenay Lakeview Spa and camp Event Centre, Poppy Inn B&B, campEvent Centre, Poppy grounds and RV ParksInn youB&B, can campstay grounds RV Parks you can Creek stay and play and in Balfour while Eagle and play in Balfour while Eagle Creek PHOTO CREDITS Hikers Fred Mansveld Taghum Eagles J.A. Siderius Kayaker The Rice Family Kootenay Lake Fisherman Paul Jacobsen Whitewater Skier
Guest House and Beach Taghum TaghumBed Bed Breakfast ininBlewett And Breakfast Blewettkeep keepyou you all the extreme recreation near all recreationaction. action. Dine Her e! Balfour’s Old World Bakery, the Dock And Duck, Balfour Beach Inn, the Osprey Grill At Balfour Golf Course, Holly’s Diner and Procter’s Village Bakery provide delicious options for every taste. Shop Her e! Balfour is the spot for fishing tackle, gas and more. Try the Gill And Gift, find unique garments at Blue Sky Clothing and stop for gifts and crafts along the highway. Liquor, souvenirs, beach needs and groceries can be found at the three stores located in Balfour, Procter and Kokanee Park.
C ele br ate Her e! With commercial venues like Kootenay Lakeview Lodge and non-profit community halls in Balfour, Procter, Harrop and the historical churches in Queens Bay, Balfour and Procter there are many options for your family gatherings, weddings and business meetings. Live her e! Check out the many great rural properties waiting for you. Area E is perfect place to start out or retire. Did we mention farm? Three elementary schools, churches, 2 seniors’ centers, stunning wildlife, horse clubs, riding grounds, parks, beaches, fishing, activities galore and great transit. What more do you need? Grow your life and grow your garden!
For more information on RDCK Area E The Balfour Area Business and Historic Association balfourcanada.com | info@balfourcanada.com Nelson Kootenay Lake Tourism nelsonkootenaylake.com | 250-352-7879 | info@nelsonkootenaylake.com Regional District of Central Kootenay Area E Director, Ramona Faust explorerdckareae.wordpress.com | 250-229-5222 | rfaust@rdck.bc.ca Nelson Adventure Magazine |2018
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Nelson Adventure Magazine |2018
Adventures in our own backyard
For this debut issue of Nelson Adventure Magazine, we’ve sent our writers to take a broad look at what makes this area unique and fun. Opportunities for excitement abound on the roads, in the mountains, and on the water. Claire Paradis talked to locals who climb the tallest peaks and plumb the deepest depths (page 6-7) . Ali Keraiff wrote about hiking with a man with some unorthodox philosophies (at least for this century) that left her with a new appreciation for a more analogue lifestyle (pages 20-21) . Val Rossi spoke with experts about ensuring your next big adventure is safe — and what to do if you run into something big and furry on four legs (pages 10-11) . We’ve also got a list of things to remember when you’re tubing down the Slocan River this summer (page 11) . Trisha Elliott gives us the run-down of this year’s local music festivals (pages 14-15) and presents accommodation options to fit any budget (pages 22-23) . Elliot Robins interviewed independent business owners to find out how they continue to thrive in a world of big box stores and online shopping (pages 18-19) . We’ve got culinary adventure covered as well: Paradis talked to Shelley Adams, whose Whitewater Cooks series is perpetually atop the BC bestseller list. The latest installment is no exception (pages 27-28) . And it’s never to early to talk about Burger Week, an annual competition that challenges local chefs to come up with their most creative spin on a beef patty on a bun. Rossi sunk her teeth into that one (page 34) . Finally, Nelson Star editor Gary Poignant found adventure of the historical variety hiding in plain sight at the corner of Stanley and Victoria streets. I won’t spoil the surprise (pages 36-37) . Throughout the magazine, we’ve quizzed some of our most adventurous citizens for their recommendations on what to see and do, and also asked longtime residents and newcomers alike to tell us what drew them to this part of the world. Adventure is everywhere in Nelson. You hardly have to seek it out. — Greg Nesteroff
Publisher: Editor:
Eric Lawson
Graphic Designer:
Sandy Leonard
Katelyn Hurley
Advertising Sales:
Adam Mandseth Marc-Andre Hamelin
Dave Dykstra Lonnie Inglehart
Cover photo:
Overlooking Hazeldean Lake near Balfour. Photo by Phil Best
Nelson Adventure Magazine is published annually by Black Press.
Greg Nesteroff
publisher@nelsonstar.com
91 Baker St. Nelson BC V1L 4C8 877-365-6397
This material, written or artistic, may not be reprinted or electronically reproduced in any way without the written consent of the publisher. The opinions and statements in articles, columns and advertising are not necessarily those of the publisher or staff of Black Press. It is agreed by any display advertiser requesting space that the owner’s responsibility, if any, for errors or omissions of any kind, is limited to the amount paid by the advertiser for that portion of the space as occupied by the incorrect item and there shall be no liability in any event greater than the amount paid for the advertisement.
Photo: Shawn Morris Lavina Lookout, Duncan Lake, BC
Issue 01 2018
EVERYTHING YOU WANT. ALL RIGHT HERE. Imagine a learning environment where lifestyle meshes perfectly with life goals and success is achieved in an atmosphere that caters to individual needs. That place exists at Selkirk College. Located in the magical mountain setting of the West Kootenay, Selkirk College has been making post-secondary dreams come true for more than 50 years. With a choice of 60 nationally recognized programs in an unsurpassed learning environment, the pathway to a bright future is within reach. Find out more at selkirk.ca
Nelson Adventure Magazine |2018
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RIVER DEEP AND MOUNTAIN HIGH Kootenay history can be found from the tallest peaks to the deepest depths
Granite Pointe 250.352.5913 1123 Richards St. West Nelson BC www.granitepointe.ca 6
NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2018
The Kootenay mountain ranges are legendary for their beautiful alpine meadows, challenging climbs and epic camping spots, but they’re also a diving destination for those in the know. John Pollack has been diving for decades, and as part of the Underwater Archeological Society of BC has mapped and dived several wrecks in the surrounding valleys. “There’s a great deal of history on Kootenay and Slocan lakes,” says Pollack. Although divers may be a “small subset” of the population getting out into the water, there are sites that are also excellent for kayakers, canoeists, and snorkelers to visit. You don’t have to go far to find them either. There are some fabulous underwater historical sites in the water next to the Nelson airport and below the bridge. The CP Railway transfer wharves can be found right beside the Nelson airfield, and is rich in history and artifacts. “This is another prime diving location,” Pollack says. “It’s got box cars, and a barge that was loaded with marble.” The stone itself is historic, and dates back to the construction of the Nelson Courthouse in 1908.
stOry by
Claire Paradis
Another site just upstream from the Nelson Bridge has a 15-car railway transfer barge, and although the forward 23 metres of the vessel were destroyed by dynamite, there’s still lots to explore. Fortunately you don’t have to have an oxygen tank strapped to your back to see them; they’re clearly visible from a kayak or canoe on days when the water is settled and clear. Snorkeling is a great way to view the sternwheeler Kuskanook at low water. Located at Kokanee Landing, the wreck was the fastest boat on the lake in its time, and measured an impressive 196 feet (60 meters) in length. If you paddle a few kilometres from Lakeside Park, the boiler of the Hosmer steam tug is visible on the south side of the west arm, and also makes for a good snorkeling excursion. If you want to see the underwater sights, get your hands on a copy of Historic Shipwrecks of the West Kootenay District. Pollack and his collaborators not only have a map of protected historical wreck sites in the book, they also give an overview of human transportation through the area. It’s a great resource for history hunters above and below the water.
Sapphire Lakes in Kokanee Glacier Park. Photo by Phil Best
The wreck of the steam tug Hosmer can be found on the south side of Kootenay Lake’s West Arm. Photo by Sean Adams
This summer the Underwater Archeological Society of BC will map two Kootenay sites, one of which is believed to be the final resting place of the SS Minto on Upper Arrow Lake. Pollack has used sidescan sonar to get rough measurements and outlines, but it’s the divers who will gather the final data and hopefully determine what’s down there. It’s all part of the process of getting the underwater artifacts protected under BC’s Heritage Conservation Act. If grand vistas are more your speed, there are a vast number to choose from around Nelson. But beware, the mountains have a magnetic pull that has relocated many people to the Kootenay. Fred Thiessen has been playing in the mountains since he was a kid, thanks to a childhood in an end-of-the-road community. The town near Lillooet was filled with honest, hard-working characters, many of whom emigrated to Canada after World War II. “Two German and French fellows took me under their wing and said ‘You’re coming ski touring,’” Thiessen remembers, “and it took off from there.” When he first moved to Nelson, he joined the Kootenay Mountaineering Club (KMC) and spent a lot of time exploring the region’s mountains and valleys. The now-retired recreation officer says it didn’t take long for him to connect history to hiking. “If you participate in the outdoors here, you realize trails weren’t built for you, they were built for miners. The geographic nomenclature completely reflects local settlers. Frequently my curiosity was piqued. Up at Healy Creek, there’s a road built across a glacier. How did they do that?” To understand how a trail came to be, Thiessen visited the Chamber of Mines of Eastern BC. “It’s a fabulous institution,” he says, impressed by how help-
ful and generous the staff are with the enormous knowledge they possess. Thiessen not only explored trails made by people who came before him, he was also responsible for managing the building of the Idaho Peak trail near Sandon, one of the most popular recreation trails in the area today. The mountains drew another KMC member, Vicki Hart, to Nelson. A self-proclaimed “peak-bagger,” Hart has climbed nearly 150 peaks in the area. She’s been atop many summits in the Valhalla, Kokanee, and Bonnington ranges over the years. It’s easy to do, she says, when the Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park trailhead is a one-hour drive from Nelson. Many hikes she and her partner Phil Best explore aren’t necessarily marked out by trails, but both have learned where to go, how to get there, and the skill of route finding as well as how to use a compass, map and GPS — all through KMC. The club gives courses in basic backcountry skills and has a membership with a vast amount of experience and knowledge. There are so many excellent places to take a hike, each with its own unique features, that Hart and Best have a difficult time naming a favourite. Sphinx Mountain near Crawford Bay with its lovely sloping meadows, camping at the Silver Spray Cabin, the wild flowers up Idaho Peak, the infamous human-loving goats of Gimli Peak — why pick one when you can experience them all? Well-marked trails make it easy to visit Monica Meadows, Idaho Peak and Jumbo Glacier, and for those wanting to go out a bit further, there’s always the option to join KMC. In the summer there are around 100 member-led hikes, and in the winter about half that number. And that’s just the beginning, says Best, because the like-minded people you meet on club trips often become hiking friends. NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2018
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Q&A with Adventure Experts
How we found Nelson:
DAVID BELLING General managerI Golf pro, Granite Pointe Golf Club What attracts golfers to the Kootenays? No. 1 is course conditions. All our facilities are extremely well maintained. We present highend, quality facilities. No. 2 is value for the dollar. We’re not $175 for a round, we’re $60 to $80. You get more value for the buck. What advice would you give someone just learning to golf? Remember that it’s a game. It’s fun. Find your nearest golf professional and take lessons. They don’t have to be private. There are a number of ways to get involved that will suit everyone’s social preferences: group classes, mixed classes, and clinics.
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NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2018
Photo by Katelyn Hurley
Moving to the country By Bonnie Baker I visited Winlaw with friends in the 1970s, when I was living in Vancouver. Then I met my future husband in New Westminster, and we decided to move to the country. He was a mechanic, had worked with Bill Lees in Kelowna, and Bill agreed to hire him if he moved here. I had a teaching credential, so we came to Nelson in 1974, but there wasn’t any place to rent, so thanks to the school board, we rented a farm in Slocan Park, and I got a teaching job in Slocan City. Richard and I lived and farmed in the Slocan Valley, mostly in Winlaw, until he died in 2006. So I sold the farm and moved to town. I’ve been in Nelson since 2007.
Q&A with Adventure Experts What kind of bike(s) do you like to ride? The biking in the Kootenays is world class and one bike can’t do it all. The mathematical equation for the number of bikes a person should have is (N)+1. (N) represents the number of bike you have… Seriously though, the road riding and mountain biking in our area is so good that having the right bike makes the experience that much better. I enjoy road riding, cross country mountain biking and Enduro/ DH mountain biking in the Kootenays. What are your favourite local trails? My favourite off road trail in the area is the new Trans Canada Trail called Bottoms Up at Morning Mountain. The government-funded trail is under construction and should be 90 per cent completed this year. The TCT trail will allow riders to leave Morning Mountain and ride all the way back to Nelson on beautiful trails with stunning views and lush forest. It’s a Kootenay must do! How did you get involved in organizing the Fat Tire Festival? I moved to Nelson in 1999 and one of the first organized events I attended was the Kootenay Fat Tire festival. The locals were so welcoming I felt right at home and from that day on I got involved in several different volunteer positions. I fully organize the Nelson Fat Tire Festival. Despite the slight name change the festival has kept going and is into its 24th year!
Travis Hauck photo by John Gibson
TRAVIS HAUCK Nelson cyclist and Fat Tire Festival organizer 924 Nelson Ave. Nelson BC
250 352 1640
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NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2018
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(BUT STAY SAFE) IN THE GREAT OUTDOORS tIps fOr plannIng yOur next bIg adventure
Fill your backpack with key supplies — like a first aid kit, flashlight, food and water — and you’re almost ready to head out on a backcountry adventure. It’s important to ensure you have everything you need to be self-sufficient in the event that conditions prevent you from returning home on time or someone is injured; but what else is there to know about venturing into the great outdoors this summer? Beyond packing the essentials, trip planning and getting the right training are key to backcountry travel, according to non-profit Nelson Search and Rescue (SAR), a free service fueled by dedicated volunteers. “Any time we head into the backcountry, we should make sure we’re prepared to stay out overnight and help ourselves should the worst-case scenario happen,” explains Lindsay Eastwood, SAR membership director and BC AdventureSmart assistant coordinator for the Kootenays. Eastwood says you should stop and use your communication device (GPS, SPOT, or InReach device) as soon as you know you’re lost; once help has been called, it is helpful to make yourself easier to locate by using a mirror to signal a helicopter or blowing a whistle to get the attention of someone on 10
NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2018
stOry by
Val Rossi
the ground. “Often people get lost and try to self-rescue while there is still daylight, delaying their call for help until night falls,” she says. “While we will come looking for people at night, it’s much easier and safer for us while it’s still light; it also greatly increases the types of searching we can conduct.” Nelson SAR shares some great information online (bcsara. com) along with AdventureSmart (adventuresmart.ca) — which offers a very helpful online trip planning template. Brushing up on safety and first aid or learning some new skills is the best way to further ready yourself for natural hazards, like swift moving water, rapidly changing weather, and wildlife.
dOn’t leave hOme wIthOut bear spray The Kootenay region is home to wolves, cougars, black bears and grizzlies. Before you head out into the backcountry, it’s important to know how to respond to interactions with wild animals. Frank Ritcey is the provincial coordinator for WildSafeBC, a program designed to reduce human-wildlife conflict through education, innovation and cooperation.
FLOAT SAFE ON THE SLOCAN RIVER stOry by Chris Ryman
Nelson Search and Rescue trains in the fall of 2017. Photos by Douglas Noblet
He says bears, for example, usually don’t want anything to do with people and will avoid interaction at all cost; if spotted, in most instances it’s best to back away slowly. If a bruin is startled however, especially while eating or protecting its young, it may trigger a bluff charge or worse, an attack. “We tell people that the best bear encounter is the one you avoid; it’s really important for people out hiking to be watching for signs,” says Ritcey. “If you see fresh bear scat or tracks or a log that’s been torn apart you really have to consider if you need to be hiking there or if there’s someplace else you can go.” WildSafeBC (wildsafebc.com) recommends always packing bear spray and being ready should a situation escalate. Though an encounter is rare, it’s important to stop, assess the situation and prepare your bear spray for withdraw. If the animal begins to charge, spray from the ground up, building a wall to repel it. When hunkering down for the night, consider the triangle approach: sleep in a spot different from where you cook your food, and store your food supply by slinging it up in the trees in a third location. “We don’t want to leave people with the impression that it’s dangerous to be out there with wildlife,” he adds. “What you have to be prepared for is the eventuality of conflict. It’s sort of like putting your seatbelt on; you’re not expecting to be in a car accident but you do it just in case.”
The upper stretches of the Slocan River are perfect for a leisurely float on a sunny summer day. It’s important to respect the river and follow these basic guidelines to ensure a safe trip. 1. Take out of the river before or at Crescent Valley Beach Park. River sections below this area become dangerous for floating craft at any water level. 2. Best floating season is mid-July to mid-September. River levels are usually high and water temperature is cold outside of this time frame. 3. There are numerous safe access points along the float section of the Slocan including the Village of Slocan, Perrys Siding Bridge, Winlaw Bridge, Passmore Bridge, and Slocan Park Bridge. Parking is available as well as waste facilities and info maps. 4. Leave no trace. Pack out what you pack in. Mesh bags for recyclables and waste are available at participating stores along the river access points. 5. Bring water, sun screen, and snacks. Float trips almost always exceed time expectations, so be prepared. 6. Drink responsibly. 7. The best floating craft are the ones that will withstand punctures and other mishaps. Inner tubes, water park grade tubes, and rafts are suitable. Explorer 200 and similar models are cheap and may contribute to the river garbage problem, leaving the passenger to walk the river instead of float. 8. Stay away from log hazards and smaller river channels 9. Youth and non-swimmers should wear PFDs at all times. 10. Be respectful to adjacent land owners and fellow floaters.
NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2018
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Q&A with Adventure Experts
VINCE HEMPSALL Association of West Kootenay Rock Climbers
What’s your favourite spot to climb in this area? I love getting into the alpine in the Valhallas for example and climbing long pitches of rock that take you to really high summits. There’s nothing quite like looking down on the world from above while attached to a single strand of 10 mm-wide rope. That said, the weather window for the alpine in this area is a lot shorter than crags at lower elevations so my other favourite would be Kinnaird Bluffs in Castlegar. The climbing association I’m a part of purchased it in 2016 to save it from development. We now own 17 acres of rock in the city that people have been climbing on since the 1950s. And they’ll get to continue climbing there forever. What’s the best spot for a beginner? For a more advanced climber? I recommend people get introduced to the sport in rock climbing gyms where it’s a lot safer than flailing around in the outdoors, like I did in the ‘90s. The Cube Climbing Gym has an excellent beginner’s program. There’s also lots of development happening on easier cliffs near Mary Hall where that
gym is located so people can now move their skills from the gym to the outdoors easily. The Ant Hill by the Svoboda Road parking lot is a good example of that. As for advanced climbers, I recommend getting into the alpine. There’s nothing better for testing your skills than when you’re sketched out on a move and the wind is howling and a storm’s approaching. You won’t find that excitement at a cliff near town. What’s the best part of climbing? There are two things that highlight the sport of climbing for me. Firstly, it will take you to places you’d never visit otherwise. I mean, you’ll never be climbing up the face of Gimli Peak in the Valhallas and suddenly run into a mountain biker or ultra-marathon runner. As athletes we’re truly privileged to have special areas all to ourselves. And secondly, climbing is a beautiful form of expression. That may sound a bit bohemian but the next time you watch a really skilled rock climber on a wall, take note of how they move, how they stay balanced. It’s like dancing. Or tai-chi. And it’s a lot easier on your knees than skiing.
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NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2018
WHAT MAKES THIS AREA POPULAR FOR MOTORCYCLING?
We have the best riding in the world in our backyard! For adventure riding we have so many good backroads. I recently did one myself: we met in Nelson, went up to the Six Mile Lakes, over into the Slocan Valley, then up to New Denver, Sandon, over the pass to Retallack, and came out on the Kaslo-New Denver highway. Then up Buchanan Lookout and back to Nelson. That was a spectacular loop. North of Kaslo to Trout Lake is a pretty easy ride and the scenery’s incredible. On my list to do this summer is the pass between Gray Creek and Kimberley.
WHAT KIND OF BIKE DO YOU USE?
I have a Honda Africa Twin, 1,000 cc. We sell Honda and KTM. Both are spectacular adventure bikes. I have street bikes too.
WHAT’S THE DEFINITION OF AN ADVENTURE BIKE?
Something you could ride to Tierra del Fuego in South America and hit every dirt road on the way. It’s not a super agile, lightweight dirt bike by any means, but good and solid on logging roads. You feel comfortable off-road.
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Nelson Adventure Magazine |2018
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Sunny summer music festival rundown stOry by
Trisha Elliott
Within an hour’s drive from downtown Nelson, you can gather with fellow music lovers under sunny skies and mountain peaks, shaking your tail nearly every summer weekend. From family friendly to unfriendly, from head-banging to tilted chin-rubbing, the range of experience right in our backyard is astounding for the population size. Paul Hinrichs, executive director of the Kaslo Jazz Etc. Festival, isn’t afraid to spread the love for a festival besides his own. “[I’m a] big fan of Tiny Lights,” he says. “They are providing an incredible boutique festival experience for music lovers outside the mainstream — and in Ymir! Amazing!”
Kaslo Jazz Etc
Where: Kaslo Bay Park, Kaslo When: Aug. 3 to 5, 2018 Estimated visitors per year: 7,000 Approximate ticket price: $100–$245 Founded in 1991, this festival stands out because, well, the musicians are floating. This festival occurs on a stage built upon the water and facing a natural amphitheatre, producing amazing acoustics. What is the ‘etc.’, you ask? It is blues, Latin, folk, world music, and some other surprises each year. If you are really on a budget, you can swim or float all around the back of the stage for free, though you won’t be able to see or hear very well, as the musicians are facing the other way. USA Today called the festival one of the “Top ten places to get outdoors and be in tune,” and Reuters called it one of the “Top 10 places to enjoy outdoor summer music.” We were able to get some 2018 sneak peak artist announcements. Drum roll please … Shovels and Rope and Mavis Staples will be performing this year! 14
NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2018
Photo by Black
Press
Starbelly Jam is held at Crawford B ay Park.
Staples was inducted into the Blues Hall of Fame in 2017 and has performed solo and with her family band, the Staple Singers. Bob Dylan proposed to her, and even though she turned him down, he didn’t take it that hard. They recently toured together following the 2017 release of her 16th album, If All I Was Was Black. Hailing from Charleston, South Carolina, Shovels and Rope is husband and wife team Michael Trent and Cary Ann Hearst. Combining threads from their individual solo careers, they blend traditional folk, rock ‘n’ roll and country rock. Their YouTube video Birmingham features child versions of the duo hitting the road and playing in a bar.
Starbelly Jam
Where: Crawford Bay Park, Crawford Bay When: July 20 to 22, 2018 Estimated visitors per year: Just the right number – Goldilocks size, according to the organizers Approximate ticket price: $80–$120 This year will be the 19th annual Starbelly Jam, with its rootsy, earthy, family-friendly flair. While this year’s line-up has yet to be released, traditionally the festival is a combo of live music and workshops. Last year’s workshops included yoga, tarot, the five rhythms dance, belly-dance, gong mediation, vocal training, songwriting, and ukulele, to name a few. The 2017 musical line-up included Deep Forest (world beat from France), The Boom Booms (alt-soul from Vancouver), the Slocan Ramblers (bluegrass from BC), Five Alarm Funk (funk from Vancouver), Antidoping (reggae/Latin from Mexico), Ellika Solo Rafael (folk/fusion from Sweden/Senegal/Mexico), Ellen McIlwaine (slide acoustic/blues from Calgary), High Waters (indie rock from Ottawa), and The Eisenhauers (folk from Kaslo).
Shambhala Music Festival
Where: Salmo River Ranch When: Aug. 10 to 13, 2018 Estimated visitors per year: 15,000 Approximate ticket price: $420 By far the biggest and most famous music festival in the area, Shambhala started as a small bush party of friends on a cattle ranch in 1997. By 2017 it grew to the size of a small town and includes seven unique stages: Pagoda, Village, Fractal Forest, Living Room, Amphitheatre, Grove, and Cedar Lounge. The festival is almost exclusively electronica and there is no corporate sponsorship at all, meaning they rely on volunteers to carry out almost all of the work. It is four days and three nights of camping, DJs, elaborate costumes and creativity. It’s said that Justin Timberlake and Johnny Depp have attended in costume, and amongst the fairies, creatures and goblins, how would anyone ever know for sure?
Tiny Lights Festival
Where: Ymir, various venues When: June 8 to 10, 2018 Estimated visitors per year: A mystery Approximate ticket price: $80-$155 This multi-disciplinary arts festival has been described as a whole town house concert. Eight stages are spread throughout the town with 150 performances and workshops over three days, so it’s kind of like a tiny town treasure hunt for talent.
Unity Music Festival
After seven successful years of family-friendly music in Slocan City on the shores of Slocan Lake, the festival will take a break in 2018. According to a statement by organizers, they “will be doing small events here and there and hope to have the full festival back next year.”
Market Fest
Where: Baker St., Nelson When: TBD, 6 to 10 p.m. Estimated visitors: Thousands Approximate ticket price: $5 donation If you don’t feel like road-tripping anywhere this summer, the West Kootenay EcoSociety’s Market Fest is returning for two nights this summer with live music, vendors, dance performances and kids entertainment. Bands play all-ages live music at the Falls St. stage. You can also dance to the Stanley St. stage and enjoy samba performances throughout the evening.
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This music fest may be the newest, but it also feels the must rustic, being located in the good ol’ hidden mining town of Ymir, with its one store, one bar, and well, that’s just about it. Sneak peak leak: Juno Award winner Craig Cardiff will be teaching songwriting this year and the festival hopes to attain zero waste. This seems very possible as last year the festival only produced one bag of garbage!
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Q&A with Adventure Experts
How we found Nelson:
A fateful phone call Sydney Black Executive director, Nelson and District Arts Council What makes Nelson a vibrant arts town? Our amazing community. We are constantly amazed to see the amount of local support that the arts receive, and because of that support our cultural community is able to flourish. What arts-related events should visitors not miss in 2018? April to June: Any of the amazing year end dance shows at the Capitol Theatre May 25-27: Blue Night Nelson Celebration of Arts and Culture June to September: ArtWalk’s 30th anniversary July 26-29: Capitol Theatre’s summer youth theatre program Aug. 17-19: Nelson International Mural Festival
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By Ron Welwood In June 1969, while my wife Frances and I were living in Ottawa, I received a phone call from a friend in Calgary informing me that the president of Notre Dame University of Nelson would be contacting me the next day — this friend was a close friend of the university’s retiring librarian. I was working at the National Library of Canada and had been fortunate to receive a federal government scholarship for my degree in library science. Hence I was required to remain at the National Library for two years following graduation — a commitment that had just expired. Following the interview I was offered the position as university llbrarian at NDU. This was the opportunity for my wife, also a librarian, and I to return to our native British Columbia! The ultimate goal was to eventually move up the provincial academic library ladder. Within hours of completing the Ottawa-to-Nelson cross-Canada drive in a tiny Datsun, we crossed the Nelson Bridge (silver, not orange) and we’ve never looked back. Out with lofty career aspirations! For a multitude of reasons we immediately embraced Nelson as the place to settle. This was before “lifestyle” was the catch phrase. Our first child was born at Kootenay Lake District Hospital within weeks of our arrival. A temporary career move ended up being a permanent placement. Aug. 11, 2018 we celebrate and will be anticipating our 50th year of Kootenay life and “Kootenay Time!”
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NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2018
Stay For the Food!
499 Baker St. NelSoN, BC • 250-352-5667
Q&A with Adventure Experts
How i found Nelson:
,
Kerry Reed Reel Adventures Fishing Charters What’s the best part about fishing on Kootenay Lake? The best part about fishing on Kootenay Lake is the fact that you can fish it all year round! Spring, summer, fall, and winter since the lake doesn’t freeze over. The other advantage of fishing on Kootenay Lake is the absence of boat traffic. Unlike some of the busier lakes in the Okanagan, we can often go out for a day on the lake and rarely see another boat. And you never know what you might catch! When the lake is in its prime, there are possibilities of catching your fish of a lifetime. What sort of fish is a visitor most likely to catch? Our lake is home to many species, but the most common catches are rainbow trout and bull trout. There is also a limited opening for kokanee (salmon), which we are very happy to catch, as they are the most delicious of the three species we target. Your most memorable catch? I have too many to list. Because I get the opportunity to take people of all ages from all over the world, each individual experience is memorable for me. Being able to help a young child catch their first fish, or their biggest fish, always leaves an image in my memory. My own personal memorable moment on Kootenay Lake was the day I caught my biggest rainbow (25 pounds) while fishing with my wife. Another memorable moment was fishing with an 87-year-old fellow from town who absolutely loved to fish, but was unable to go fishing on his own. With our assistance, he managed to land some beautiful rainbows up to 18 pounds.
A nurse s posting By Pat Gibson
Upon completing my community health nursing degree at the Pat Gibson and U of A in Edmonton, grandchildren Caden and Hailey. and being unimpressed with the job openings in Alberta, I wrote to the BC Director of Public Health Nursing in Victoria (you could do that in those days!), asking for a position anywhere in BC (imagining I would end up in Vanderhoof!). I was posted to Nelson. Little did I know how wonderful a place it was. The first person I met in Nelson was Bruno — people who have lived in Nelson a long time will remember him. Having arrived to work in Nelson early in the summer of ‘69, this coming summer will be my 50th!
The Kootenay Bakery Café is a worker owned co-op with a focus on delicious organic food. Everything is made from raw ingredients and with plenty of care, just for you. We love using local, sustainable ingredients and have many specialty food items such as gluten free. Our community means a lot to us and we are happy to support local groups and charities. Come be nourished in the heart of downtown Nelson, at 377 Baker St. 250-352-2274 Ba NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2018
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Off the beaten path Nelson’s independent retailers compete and thrive in a world of big-box stores and online shopping.
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Gerick’s Cycle and Sports manager Charles Arnold has had so many mind-blowing experiences in Nelson’s backcountry that he’s hard-pressed to remember them all. When asked if he’s had a pivotal backcountry experience that AROMATIC APOTHECARY made him think “This place is beautiful, and I never want to leave,” Arnold laughs. “It hasn’t just happened once, it happens almost every time I’m out there! For Organic Essential Oils example, about two weeks ago I was on Botanical Perfume the [Whitewater Ski Resort] Glory Ridge chair. I looked out and I was one of four Nutritional Skincare cars in the parking lot. I felt as if I had my own ski hill.” While Arnold’s experience was unique, stories like his are common. Reverence for the awe-inspiring terrain around Nelson runs as deep as its legendary powder. Nelson is full of outdoor enthusiasts and is home to numerous local and independent outdoor adventure outfitters. This Premium Adult Toys marrying of the love of the outdoors with support for small businesses is part of Quality Bondage Gear Nelson’s charm. Natural Lubes & When you walk into places like Gerick’s, Sacred Ride, Valhalla Pure, ROAM or SnowAphrodisiacs pack, you sense that the pace is more relaxed than at large chain retailers, and you are unlikely to be subjected to the From the Dungeon to the Ashram sounds of Muzak or its modern successor, Quality conscious products Mood Music. Arnold, who has managed & service since 1999. Gerick’s since 2000, feels that specialized knowledge is what sets independent outfitters apart from their bigger competitors. NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2018 “Our big advantage is we have truly 582 Ward Street Nelson BC 250.352.0666 local knowledge,” Arnold said. “We’re a
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Nelson Adventure Magazine |2018
Story by
Elliot Robins
group of athletes, basically, who know the equipment and have used it locally.” Nelson and District Chamber of Commerce executive director Tom Thomson agrees. “These independents are much more familiar with what their customers want, and often order product with that knowledge. They also have the adaptability to buy specialty products that chains do not always allow, or they can specialize in one product such as footwear.” Customer service is another area where independent retailers thrive. “Local independent retailers begin with the customer service and product knowledge they offer,” Thomson says. “Quality customer service and a comfortable customer shopping experience is very seldom matched by big-box stores, and never online.”
Origins of Nelson’s shop local ethos Although you sometimes overhear someone in Nelson say “I really wish there was a Tim Hortons here,” or “I went to McDonald’s in Castlegar on my lunch break,” it’s not often. There is a certain amount of civic pride associated with the fact that there are few chain or big-box stores in Nelson. It can be argued that Nelsonites prefer that their town not be home to large numbers of big-box stores. But where does this ethos come from, and how long has it been around?
Nelson’s Best Nelson’s independent businesses are numerous and thriving. Photos by Thomas Nowaczynski
Nelson hasn’t always been a laid-back, open-minded, liberal-spirited town. In the 1950s, Nelson was a small conservative mountain town with a forestry and mining background. During the 1960s and 1970s, Nelson and the Slocan Valley saw an influx of Vietnam draft dodgers, who, to an extent, brought with them a backto-the-land, do-it-yourself ethic (as did the region’s Doukhobor population some 60 years earlier) that still exists in some pockets of the Kootenays today. By Thomson’s account, the focus on supporting local businesses began to take hold in the 1980s, when Nelson was chosen as one of seven towns across Canada to participate in Main Street, a program funded by the Heritage Canada Foundation. “I believe the independent stores were always a big part of the downtown, but around the time of the revitalization, the downtown took on more importance to the community,” Thomson says. “The heritage restoration that the Main Street program brought to the City of Nelson made it much more prominent and the building owners invested in the facades of the buildings.” For Arnold, the movement was brought about during the mid-2000s, when the boom in online shopping was taking business away from bricks-and-mortar stores. “There’s been a big Shop Local movement brought about by The Age of the Internet,” Arnold said. He also feels that
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a strong sense of community has always existed in the Queen City. “Nelson has always been a spot that takes care of their own. It shows we have a community-minded city.”
IntO the future Whatever the origins of the shop local ethos, the next five to ten years look promising for small businesses in Nelson. “The future is really in our hands,” Thomson said. “The Chamber wants to ensure that the main downtown core shopping, dining and entertainment district remains vibrant and family friendly. We have to make the downtown a place that local and regional residents want to continue to go to with a mix of specialty shops, boutiques and stores offering a wide selection of products and services.” Thomson believes small businesses who cater to locals first have the best chance of surviving. “You really need to have a downtown and entertainment area supported by locals, where they feel comfortable and safe and there is the right retail and entertainment mix, because if it’s not appealing to locals, it probably won’t be appealing to visitors.” 411 Kootenay St, Nelson Among the businesses already aligned with Thomson’s dictum are the numerous 250-354-4722 and thriving outdoor adventure outfitters 8102| ENIZAGAM ERUTNEVDA NOSLEN that line the Queen City’s historic Baker Street.
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NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2018
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Left to right; Uncle Rod sketching a worthy scene. Rod in all his glory. Jumbo Mountain, Eddie and Ali. Rod, Eddie and Ali enjoying ridgetop views. Courtesy of Ali Keraiff
STORY BY
Ali Keraiff
My boyfriend Eddie’s Uncle Rod is an unknown legend. He wanders unaided in the wilderness for multiple days at a time without a GPS or SPOT device. Some may find this reckless. He finds it liberating. Rod does not seek recognition or praise for his adventurous pursuits. He lives for himself and charges at every adventure like it may be his last. Rod is not on social media and has no desire to be a part of it. As such, there are three ways to communicate with Rod: in person, on the phone or pen, paper, and Canada Post. Going on multi-day hikes feeds Rod’s soul and satisfies his craving for personal challenge without regard to ‘likes.’ An 85-litre backpack holds everything Rod needs to survive: a oneman tent, stove, rationed fuel, one dry set of clothes, dehydrated backpackers’ meals, photocopies of topographic maps from the UBC library and a compass. One sturdy plastic spoon, slightly worn down at the end, is used for cooking, eating and stirring his tea. He does not invite company or expect anyone to enjoy the grueling multi-day trips like he does. Rod uses these trips as a type of mental and physical cleanse. In July Eddie and I had the privilege of experiencing Rod in his natural habitat as we accompanied him on the first leg of his journey. He came to the Kootenays from Vancouver to hike Earl Grey Pass. His initial plan was to enter from the east side of the pass via Invermere and exit out of Argenta. Eddie and I convinced him that instead of hitchhiking to Invermere from Nelson it would be more efficient for us to hike him up Jumbo Pass and he could continue from there. Jumbo Pass, located in the northern Purcells, holds a special kind of magic. It is a place where wild flowers reign and mountain goats roam free. Our impromptu trip to Jumbo with Uncle Rod left a deeper impression than we expected. I attribute that as much to the scenery as to the company. 2 0 NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2018
Luck was on our side when we headed out on that Sunday morning. Perfect temperature for a hike: cool in the shade, warm in the sun. No bugs, bright blue sky. We suited up at the truck with our day bags crammed full, Rod with his 85-litre bag packed just right. As Eddie and I filled our water bottles from reserves in the truck Rod dumped his out. Noticing a confused look on my face, he explained that water is too heavy to carry. Instead, he drinks from streams en route. “Water comes when you need it. And if it doesn’t, well that’s just a bit of suffering. Suffering is a good thing now and then.” Our conversation along the trail ranged from the philosophy of education to marriage and relationships. We stopped now and then for water, a snack, or if we started laughing too hard to walk. I asked Rod questions and listened through the huffs and puffs to tales of adventure in Japan or love not pursued. Our hike was the perfect blend of humour, truth, and suffering. At viewpoints along our hike where selfies would be common, Rod would stop mid-sentence to drop his bag, get his sketchbook out and start drawing. Rod doesn’t bring a camera hiking. He doesn’t own a cell phone. When Rod sees a vista he would like to capture, he sits down and sketches a rough outline of what he sees. He will often sketch half a dozen rough drafts on rationed paper during a day of walking. Then at night, or the next morning he fine-tunes them, adding detail and a caption of the sketches’ dates and locations. After a trip is complete Rod assembles his sketches into an album as a keepsake. He has shelves full of these albums in his home. All filled with hand-drawn sketches rather than photos. Before we knew it a three-hour hike became a four-hour me-
ander. Stopping to admire alpine flowers and sketch the views we got caught up in the best kind of way. I am inspired by Rod’s ability to live in the moment. Reaching the cabin we stopped in for a friendly hello then headed down towards the lake to set up camp. Rod wandered up the ridge and nestled into the trees. Eddie and I found some flat ground with a view to call home for the night. There were patches of slushy snow and the Jumbo lake water was frigid yet fresh. We explored the surrounding ridges, taking in the views as the light slowly faded and Rod drew his final sketch for the day. Morning greeted us with a smoky view of Jumbo Mountain. The winds had shifted. Suddenly our memory of a bluebird day was a grey haze. We spoke of gratitude over breakfast for the visibility we got the day before. Rod decided to spend one more night before starting his journey to Earl Grey Pass. As he headed out to summit Mt. Bastille, a nearby peak, Eddie and I walked back down to a different kind of reality. I remember feeling sad to be leaving Jumbo Pass that morning. Weeks later I received a handwritten letter in the mail from Rod letting us know he made it safely out of the pass and that he would tell us of his journey in person soon. There is joy in watching Uncle Rod move through the mountains. He is humble yet bold and does not rush. I learned a lot from Rod in our short time hiking together. I believe we would all benefit from more handwritten letters, stories told in person instead of on Instagram, and sketches rather than selfies. I will always hear Uncle Rod in my head when I am debating to go on an adventure. “Well, just remember, you do have to live.” NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2018
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Sail Nelson is a leader in boating education and we are located right here in the Kootenays! No need to go to the Coast for your boating certifications. We offer Sail Canada courses that are recognized around the world. We offer a studentfirst approach and we are here to make sure you receive the best boating education and experience possible. Our instructor Penny Caldwell has over 20 years of teaching experience and is eager to help you make your sailing and boating dreams come true. Be your own captain and sign up today at sailnelson.com!
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From tent pads and hostels to remote luxury heli-ski lodges, the Queen City of the Kootenays offers an array of accommodation experiences. According to Ryan Martin, general manager and owner of Nelson’s Hume Hotel & Spa and the Best Western Hotel, the busiest times to book include the month of August, the BC Family Day long weekend in February, and the Kootenay Coldsmoke Powder Festival weekend, also in February. The best deals are in the shoulder months of November and April. Speaking of deals, is it best to book directly at a hotel or through a website? “It’s always best to book direct and not through third party on-line websites like Expedia or Booking,” Martin says. “You can call hotels and ask for a direct booking discount and my guess is that most would give you between five to ten per cent off since it costs them more to acquire reservations [online]. We sure do! It also will inform you more of what to
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expect for the room type you are picking and increases the chance of an upgrade benefit, especially in the off season when the nicest rooms may be vacant.” With all of the Airbnb options available these days, you may wonder what traditional accommodation has to offer. According to Rob Little, general manager of Nelson’s Adventure Hotel, “We offer consistent standards and 24-hour, at-your-fingertips guest service and supplies. Whether it’s a maintenance issue, or your pillow is not the style you like, it’s an in-house phone call away or a swing by the front desk. Forgot your toothbrush or other toiletries? No problem, we’ve got you covered. “Our service staff are available to help with directions, booking any activity, or just general knowledge of the area. We also offer safety and guaranteed health standards mandated by the Interior Health Authority, the Hotel Innkeepers Act, and the fire department.”
Whistle Stop Campground at Bealby Point is one of the newest accommodation options in the area. (Courtesy Whistle Stop Campground) Baldface Lodge is a prime ski destination. (Courtesy Baldface Lodge) The 125-year-old Hume Hotel & Spa is a place to sleep — and be pampered. (Photo by David R. Gluns)
shOestrIng budget 1. Nelson City Campground: $26-$45/night 90 High St. Open from May 1 to Oct. 15, this campground is a short walk from the downtown core and the beaches of Lakeside Park. The campground is small, offering seven full-service sites, 20 sites with electrical hook-up, 20 tent sites and four sites for RV units up to 40 feet long. Reservations are recommended. 2. The Whistle Stop Campground: $36/night 2309 Bealby Point Rd. This new campground features tent platforms right on the beach, just a five minute drive from downtown. The property comes equipped with a couple of friendly goats and some chickens for added rural charm. 3. The Dancing Bear Inn: $30-$82/night 171 Baker St. Located right on the main street, with an “Awesome 9.0” rating on booking.com, the Dancing Bear is a tried and true hostel. According to their website, “the Bear’s character design feels more like a home than a hostel. Complete with hardwood flooring, bay windows, high ceilings, exposed beams, an antique fireplace, and a sunny patio for BBQing.”
mIddle Of the rOad budget 1. The Adventure Hotel: $80-$144/night 616 Vernon St. Pet-friendly rooms with free Internet and an airy and bright feel are offered in this downtown hotel. Also included in the building is a sports bar, a high-end lounge and a newly updated coffee house (try the peanut butter cookies — there’s a real swirl of peanut butter in each one). 2. The Hume Hotel & Spa: $149-$299/night 422 Vernon St. When in the Heritage Capital of BC, it makes sense to stop
by the restored Hume Hotel, originally opened in 1898, and celebrating its 120th anniversary this year. Suites are named after historical Nelsonites and include touches like soaker tubs, heritage photographs and a lovely hot breakfast. Amenities include a full restaurant, a fireplace-encrusted jazz lounge, a fun, pool-table-laden pub, a live music/DJ nightclub, a boutique beer and wine store, and a luxurious spa. 3.The Prestige Lakeside Resort & Convention Centre: $161$359/night 701 Lakeside Dr. If throwing a pebble into the lake from your suite window is your thing, this is the hotel for you. A dock and marina filled with various watercrafts is the view from many of the rooms, restaurant and lounge. There are walking trails all along the water right from the hotel in two directions, and the famous restored red Nelson streetcar stops right at the hotel, where you can ride to Lakeside Park for a leisurely swim or polar dip, depending on the season.
champagne and cavIar budget 1. Baldface Lodge: $4,261/3 days, up to 11 friends Three days of food, drink and cat skiing in virgin Kootenay powder on a mountaintop with no address, including a stylish helicopter ride in and out. You may have to book a year in advance for primo ski conditions, but starting in 2019 the lodge will be open year round for special events. 2. Savoy Hotel, King Suite: $350/night Nelson’s newest hotel, opened by the folks who also bring a wee annual music fest to the area named Shambhala, is offering its King Suite with a spa tub, waterfall showerhead, pillow-top mattress, bathrobes and minibar. If you’re feeling extra limber head down to the Bloom Nightclub and dance the night away to some electronic DJ beats, next to a living wall of plant life. If intimate conversation is more your bag, the Falls Lounge offers more subtle live music in swanky-casual surroundings. NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2018
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Q&A with Adventure Experts MARY LAIRD Toad Rock Campground Why do motorcyclists come to this area? Kootenay roads are rated amongst the top 10 internationally for the corners, the lack of traffic, and most importantly, the Mary Laird and Grant Peterson spectacular views. The fun factor is unsurpassed. What’s your favourite route to ride in the Kootenays? My favorite is the “out and back” from Toad Rock to Meadow Creek. The changing landscape is always a thrill and a stop at Lost Ledge for a swim on a hot summer day can’t be beat. What route would you recommend for visiting bikers? I always recommend discovering the Kootenays — not just riding the roads. Every route has historic stops to take advantage of, regardless of your ride. The Sandon museum for gravel riders on their way to Idaho Lookout. From the SS Moyie in Kaslo to the Nikkei Internment Memorial Centre in New Denver and the Doukhobor Discovery Centre in Castlegar. All add to the richness of the roads for those preferring to do a day loop on pavement.
Alpine trees near Ross Lake. Photo by Katelyn Hurley
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Q&A with Adventure Experts Penny Caldwell and Reef the sailing dog.
PENNY CALDWELL Cruising instructor, Sail Nelson
What’s the most important thing every prospective sailor needs to know? Mother Nature will always win. Every adventurist must understand the inherent dangers (and subsequently the huge payoffs!) of playing in Mother Nature’s backyard. Every sailor needs to plan for the unexpected. Have a trip plan, bring extra food and water, have an emergency plan in place, etc. Sailing is just like any other outdoor sport: lots of fun and frolic, but things can go wrong quickly sometimes, so buckle up! Take an intro course and learn about the beauty, and the dangers, of depending on the winds and weather when you sail. What’s the best thing about sailing on Kootenay Lake? Kootenay Lake has developed some amazing sailors and that is all thanks to our surroundings. Our mountains create what is known as “mountain effect.” The winds and weather that are stable and consistent across the Coast or flat plains become disrupted and sometimes chaotic on our lake. This means that
you are in for some fun and unexpected weather! Squalls seem to be the most common unexpected weather phenomenon out here, so you need to be quick! The lake is deep and the water is gorgeously clear, so out in the middle of the lake there are very few dangers, and when you’re setting up for an anchorage you can clearly see your bottom. In that respect, Kootenay Lake is forgiving. But as noted above, she will throw you some curve balls! Oh, and the water is bloody cold… What’s your favourite kind of boat to sail? I would have to say that my heart belongs to the Laser, a single sail, one-person boat that goes like stink (invented by a Canadian too!). You can be rigged and off the beach within 10 minutes and have an amazing sail for an hour or so and return to shore exhausted. That being said, I do love being able to stand, cook, sleep, and listen to Bob Marley on board my 28-foot keelboat, Sprindrift, without the bumps and bruises of dinghy sailing. So there are trade-offs to both!
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NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2018
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Whitewater Cooks again Shelley Adams serves up another beautiful cookbook stOry by
Claire Paradis Sharing food: that’s what motivates Shelley Adams, author of the bestselling Whitewater Cooks cookbooks. “My brain has always been about food,” she says. “It’s always on my mind. When I’m trying new dishes I think ‘Oh, people will love that!’” And fans of the books put their money where their mouths are, confident they’ll get another good helping of new delicious recipes. The fifth book in the series, More Beautiful Food, came out in time for Christmas 2017, but most copies sold in presales before the book was printed. More Beautiful Food is a collection of recipes Adams has gathered from all over, including Arizona (Cowgirl Salad), Greece (Prawns Tourkolimano), Vietnam (Saigon Chicken Wings), and closer to home (Yum Son Bowl, Procter Bakery Date Cake). It’s a mouthwatering international array, but all the recipes are meant to be quick and easy to prepare as well as tasty. Like previous books, this one had its own distinct theme: recipes for everyday cooking. “This one was about simple food that uses the ingredients people have in their fridge,” says Adams. These days, it’s about eating good food but also getting out of the kitchen for her. “I’m busy and sporty, and as I get older I want to spend less time in the kitchen and more time out biking or skiing or traveling.” The former caterer and Whitewater Ski Resort chef prefers well-balanced menus with simple meals that aren’t complicated — dishes that go well together. And of course, presentation is very important, feasting the eyes first. Every recipe in Whitewater Cooks More Beautiful Food is illustrated with a full-colour photo, on Adams’ daughter’s recommendation. Adams says her daughter told her she looks at recipes with a photo first, and often doesn’t bother making recipes without a picture. Which meant getting creative with dishes like mashed cauliflower. 2 6 NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2018
“A picture of mashed cauliflower? Really?” Adams laughs. “But we put out some tongs and napkins and it looked great.” The Whitewater Cooks series sells all over Canada, and the author often gets asked why she talks about places in Nelson, not Toronto or Vancouver. Adams says she loves her home town and likes to support local businesses. “Nelson is my favourite place and I’ll always live there. It’s my final resting place for sure.” Although she spends most of her time in Nelson, the chef and cookbook creator also has an apartment in West Vancouver where her mother lives. The distinctive building aptly named the Pink Palace served a vital role as the test kitchen for many More Beautiful Food recipes. With five cookbooks under her belt now, Adams feels she’s getting better at putting a cookbook together, but it’s still an enjoyable challenge. Each book takes about a year to produce, from concept to completed cookbook. With the idea in mind, Adams collects recipes from markets, restaurants, travel, friends — handwritten notes and ripped out pages from magazines — until a table of contents comes together. And then comes the testing. Each recipe is tested 20 to 30 times until the food on the table matches the written recipe’s quantities and techniques. And
for each photograph you see in the cookbook, at least 100 were taken, said Adams, with eight to ten of each dish sent to the book designer for her to choose from. More Beautiful Food took 14 months to produce, a little longer than the usual year, because the team working on it was smaller. David R. Gluns has been doing the photography from the beginning and took all the photos for the fifth book as well, and Nelson’s Yum Son chef Amanda Skidmore styled the food for the camera. And the process, which Adams loves, gets more streamlined as time goes on. It’s been a creative journey since the first Whitewater cookbook Adams made when she was cooking at the ski resort. “At first I thought I was putting together a souvenir book for Whitewater in the gift store,” she says, but now she’s enjoying getting more into the process of producing the cookbooks. “As the cookbooks evolve, I’ve got a plan in place. The next step is to learn how to design and do the whole thing myself. It’s funny, I never thought I’d be doing this.” Fans will be happy to hear a sixth collection of recipes is already in the works. Adams, who is planning a trip to Italy in May and more traveling in 2018, said the next book will be a collection of “greatest hits” plus a few new favourites.
Shelley Adams’ latest installment in the Whitewater Cooks series has once again topped the BC bestseller list. She is seen here at her Pink Palace in West Vancouver. Photo by Hayley Hudson
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NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2018
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THE CAPITOL THEATRE
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2 8 Nelson Adventure Magazine |2018
Explore artists’ studios, museums, art galleries and heritage sites through this free, self-guided tour within the Columbia Basin. A project of
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How we found Nelson:
How we found Nelson:
Q&A with Adventure Experts
Todd (left) and Jay (right) Manton
TODD MANTON Kokanee Mountain Zipline
What inspired you to create a zipline in our area? Jay (my brother) and myself are co-owners of the zipline. We grew up in the Okanagan and had been on skiing trips to the Kootenays and knew the area was spectacular and diverse. We got pointed out to the Kokanee area and found the perfect location we had been scouting for and the rest is history. What advice do you give first-time zipliners (especially those who might be nervous of heights)? I would say that our guides are our best resource at the zipline. They are trained to do everything on the tour from clipping customers into the zipline, to slowing them down and stopping them at the end. They get people to push their boundaries every day and face their fears. It’s a great feeling of accomplishment once you’ve gotten through the course. What’s the best thing about ziplining? Ziplining is an exhilarating adventure but is also quite peaceful once you are out on the zipline by yourself taking in the scenery. The views of Kokanee Creek, the glacier and Kootenay Lake are breathtaking and can only be seen from the zipline. Not too many people get to experience being suspended in the forest canopy and the feeling is sensational!
The mountains whisper Angela Kalbun I first came to Nelson to visit my sister and her partner. The mountains and trees whispered to me “stay.” When I had the opportunity to move here I jumped at the chance. I spend time almost every day in the hills and I cannot think of any place I would rather live. Gibson Lake Photo by Katelyn Hurley
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Q&A with Adventure Experts What are some of the most popular spots around here for kayaking? The north end of Kootenay Lake offers great scenery and lots of camping spots. Also, because it is so large, it is not congested and the feeling of solitude is very apparent. A person really feels like he or she is getting away from it all. Another very popular lake is Slocan Lake. It is smaller and paddling distances between camp sites are shorter. It also tends to warm up a bit more than Kootenay Lake making it more comfortable for swimming. The beauty and scenery is spectacular. Trout Lake and Duncan Lake are good choices if you really want to get away from the crowds. For those people that want to go whitewater kayaking, the lower Slocan is the most popular run around here but be ready for class 3+ rapids. What advice do you have for
BOB HELLMAN Hellman Canoes and Kayaks
someone trying kayaking for the ďŹ rst time? I would recommend getting a short lesson to go over the basics. You may also want to rent a kayak for a day to see if you like it. When you want to buy a kayak, try it out before you buy it to see if it feels right for you. How many different types of kayaks are there? What do you recommend for this area? The different classes of kayaks available are touring, recreational, and whitewater kayaks. There is a large variety within these different classes. If you plan on multiday tours or want a faster kayak, then go with a touring kayak. For those that want a small, lightweight kayak and are only doing day trips, a recreational kayak would be a better choice. Whitewater kayaks are meant for river paddling. They turn fast but do not track well on the lake.
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Good food done right Saturday & Sunday Brunch 10am - 1pm Open everyday at 5pm for dinner
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How we found Nelson:
The draw of geography By Melodie Rae The past year I have been hosting a monthly New to Nelson potluck at the Nelson library. Around plates of quinoa and cups of kombucha, we take turns sharing the stories of how we came to be new in Nelson. Like a mini-United Nations, the range of accents is diverse and far-flung. I am forever amazed at how people from all corners of the earth will hear about this little town and then actually travel here despite Nelson being the most darn inconvenient place to Melodie Rae Storey and her mother. travel to. But it happens. This is a town where everyone has come from some other place. I am a rare breed that way: a third generation Nelsonite (I consider my cat Tigger fourth gen). Of course I left town as soon as I graduated for the big city. Each of my Nelsonite ancestors did. Sometimes you have to leave to realize how good it is here. But we always came back. The pull of family. The draw of geography. This area has the most magical combination of mountain and water, so much so that I am always pining for it when away. My mom’s morning line when we were growing up, “Another day in paradise,” was formative. I wouldn’t want to be anywhere else.
A beacon in the night
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We moved to Nelson in 1976 after much research. We’d been through Nelson a few times on our way to visit a friend in Kaslo, although usually at 4 in the morning. But the memory lingered, and the memory of driving along the West Arm and the Main Lake, the Purcell Range a mighty backdrop, left a lasting impression. Simply put, the West Kootenay was beautiful year round. And when we drove from the coast, long before recent highway improvements, Nelson was like a beacon in the night. No lunchpail town this; no one-street wonder. Here was a city, with venerable stone buildings like the Court House and the City Hall. To rumble over the old Taghum one-lane bridge after eight hours of rugged driving and to see the Jewel of the Kootenays sparkling below us, well, it felt like coming home. And that also burned in our memory. Now, how do we get to
3 2 NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2018
By Sandy and Dan Babin
stay here? Like a lot of people who arrive here, we did whatever it took. Picking rocks off the Blewett ski hill, lifeguard, sales clerk. The plan was to teach cross-country skiing in the winter and get pick-up work in the summer (oh how young we were!). But a chance meeting with a fellow skier got our entrepreneurial juices flowing, and, long story short, we opened Snowpack Outdoor Experiences Ltd. Then came Danny’s Deli, Winddancers Boardsailing, a dance studio, and Uniglobe Glacier Travel. I think people still visit here and say “How do I get to live here?” You see it in the number of small businesses here; in the number of home-based businesses; in the number of young people, who, like we did, are working in the gig economy. I still don’t know how or why Nelson “works,” but it does and will continue to attract the brightest and the best.
Q&A with Adventure Experts
Peter Oostlander on Ymir mountain, with Whitewater Ski Resort in the distance.
Peter Oostlander Kootenay Mountaineering Club What’s your favourite day hike/climb? The new Lost Mountain trail between Salmo and the Kootenay Pass on the north side of Highway 3. The Kootenay Mountaineering Club flagged this and the Salmo Trail Society built it in 2017. What’s your favourite multi-day hike/ climb? There are many multiday hikes available in the West Kootenay, but Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park is probably my
favorite with possible ascents of a whole range of mountains plus glacier access What routes should visitors be sure to check out? As a visitor in summer, Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park and the Rossland range are easily accessible by road and close to amenities. In winter, Kootenay Pass and the Bonninton range have cabins for overnight stay at a very modest fee.
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How i found Nelson:
Love and loss Rob Driscoll proposed marriage to me soon after our meeting on Baffin Island where we were both working in the mid-1990s. I didn’t hesitate for even one heartbeat to say yes to the love of my life. He was a BC boy and I was an Ontario girl and he was “not going to live east of the Rockies,” to quote him verbatim. His choice of “home” was all about the wilderness and the mountains. I could not feel at home in a town with no culture and no work. Always a man of compromise, he suggested, “I will take you to a place I think you will really like.” He first organized a cat ski trip to Revelstoke back in the day when it was not developed. We skied there for a week and then he drove me south from Revelstoke across the Galena Bay ferry through Nakusp and down the Slocan Valley. I still remember that
By Carrie Fitzsimons drive vividly for the sheer beauty of it and relive that trip each time I drive that route. We drove into Nelson from the west. The city was a breathtaking sight sprawled along the south shore of the lake. I was in love (again). We stayed at a B&B on Victoria Street. I went to the hospital to find the name of the person to whom I would send my curriculum vitae when I got back to Toronto. I got the job and we bought the third house we saw and moved to Nelson. Rob was killed in an avalanche in his beloved mountains the following year. I considered leaving many times but was not able to, partly because I was paralyzed by grief, and partly because this community took care of me during those dark days. I felt loved and cared for and I have never been able to leave my “home” Nelson, BC.
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Learn...
Nelson takes a bite out of Burger Week Yum Son
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There’s something to be said for the classic burger: sinking your teeth into one and having the juices ooze down your sleeve invites a certain savoury nostalgia. Classic is king when it comes to burgers, but Nelson’s Burger Week, which could be renamed Burger Month, is asking chefs to think outside the bun — and the bacon, cheese and pickles — to create a burger that pushes the limits on presentation, taste, and originality. The annual foodie event, organized by the Nelson Star in collaboration with local restaurants, takes place during the first three weeks of November when restaurants battle for the popular vote by serving up their original burger versions for $12.95. Patrons vote for their favourite burger online and are encouraged to keep their receipts for a chance to win some prizes from the participating restaurants and sponsors. “They get stacked with some pretty good condiments, but I have to say that most burgers are still stuffed between a bun,” says Marc-Andre Hamelin, the Star’s print and digital advertising consultant, who is organizing the popular event. “We encourage restaurants that don’t necessarily serve burgers to do something for Burger Week too. I’m always excited to see what people come up with to stand out.” The 2017 event saw 19 restaurants throw down for the challenge, which resulted in a tie between Pitchfork Eatery and Yum Son. Warning: these menu descriptions may cause severe hunger pains! Pitchfork’s BC Bison Burger slammed boar bacon, aged cheddar, spicy kimchi, pickled root
3 4 NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2018
Pitchfork
Eatery
stOry by
Val Rossi
vegetable, curried ginger, honey dijon and wasabi aioli on a sourdough bun. Yum Son’s Vietnam Burger packed a punch with a duck confit and pork patty, smeared with black bean and hoisin onion jam and topped with pickled carrot and daikon, chili aioli, butter lettuce, bean sprouts, and fresh sliced jalapeños — all served on a potato scallion bun topped with a Saigon beer-battered prawn. “If you find yourself in Nelson in November, Burger Week is a must,” insists Hamelin. The tasty idea was first introduced by the late Danny Rickaby and the Adventure Hotel’s Rob Little, who experienced a similar competition in Portland and was eager to give local creative chefs the opportunity to compete. “The online contest is live throughout the campaign for people to vote; it attracted almost 900 registered voters in 2017,” says Hamelin. “Thousands from all over the Kootenays come — people carpool from Rossland and Trail, sometimes trying four different restaurants before going home.” The Nelson Star also hosts Indulge Nelson, a food event that offers three-course dinners at a fixed affordable price for the entire month of May. Whether crafting multi-course meals or creating new burgers, the restaurants of the community have fun working together and competing to attract patrons and attention for the city’s diverse cuisine, which includes Indian, Japanese, Mexican, Greek, and much more. “The restaurants go above and beyond, it’s really impressive,” adds Hamelin.
With over 350 designated herit age homes and downtown buildings, Nels on captures a classic authentic feel you will fall in love with.
Fine restauran ts, seasonal pa tios and first rat entertainment e plus an eclectic cultural scene.
Discover a rare blend of year round outdoor adventure, mixed with a vibrant arts, cultural, and heritage scene you will fall in love with. Explore historic Baker Street, and downtown Nelson and enjoy specialty shops, boutiques, fine restaurants, outdoor patios and first rate entertainment‌.a true adventure in itself! Nelson is an authentic, funky and vibrant mountain playground, perfect for all ages.
Nelson and District Chamber of Commerce and Visitor Centre 91 Baker Street (Heritage CP Station) Nelson V1L 4G8 Ph: (250) 352-3433 Toll Free: 1-877-663-5706 Email: info@discoverNelson.com Web: www.discoverNelson.com
NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2018
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A VISIT TO
Nelson’s Cup Corner THE MEN WHO DONATED THE STANLEY CUP AND THE GREY CUP ARE BOTH COMMEMORATED IN THE QUEEN CITY
stOry by
Gary Poignant
It has never been called Cup Corner. But the intersection of Stanley and Victoria streets in Nelson is certainly worthy of the handle. The history is so deep in the Queen City that you can stumble upon a nugget from the past on any street corner. And Stanley and Victoria is truly a hidden gem. The southeast corner of the two streets share a unique bond with Canada’s two cherished sports trophies — the Stanley Cup and the Grey Cup. Local historians — like the editor of this publication, Greg Nesteroff — are well aware of this remarkable piece of sports trivia. As a fan of both the NHL and CFL and a relative newcomer to Nelson, the information was new and awe-inspiring for this observer. This personal sports journey started with a decision to attend my first Nelson Leafs game at the Nelson and District Community Complex, a day I dubbed My Hockey Day in Nelson. I had yet to attend a Leafs game in Nelson and the team was playing one of their rivals — the Beaver Valley Nitehawks — in their traditional New Year’s Eve afternoon tilt. My wife, Linda, a casual sports fan, agreed to join me. Before walking downtown to the NDCC on a mild and sunny Dec. 31, 2017 I did an online search of Nelson’s Hockey Day in Canada on Jan. 13, 2007. I wanted to be a bit better informed before I set foot in the arena. Within seconds I was deep into a CBC story describing the festivities from that special day. Ron MacLean, Don Cherry and the entire CBC crew spent 13 hours here. Then I read the line, “It is fitting that this year’s host city was originally called ‘Stanley’ after then-Governor General Lord Stanley who donated the cup that would bear his name and become synonymous with Canada’s passion.” My heart skipped a beat. This was really old news for some, but a huge deal for me. I then realized that the Nelson street that my wife and I moved adjacent to months earlier was named after that Stanley. Hockey day turned into discovery day. The walk towards the arena took on even greater meaning. We stopped on Stanley just south of Victoria Street and looked to the east. Again, I read the plaque that I had noticed on numerous other walks. “Cornerstone laid by Earl Grey. Governor General of Canada. Sept. 29, 1909.” Later that fall G-G Grey commissioned to have the Grey Cup awarded for football supremacy in Canada. (The University of Toronto won the title on Dec. 4, 1909 but didn’t receive the trophy until it was awarded in March 1910.) It was getting close to puck drop as we continued our trek down towards the NDCC. While I’d attended hundreds of NHL games at some of hockey’s greatest cathedrals — including the Montreal Forum, Maple Leaf Garden and Madison Square Garden — the walk towards the relatively modern 1,200-seat NDCC felt special. 3 6 NELSON ADVENTURE MAGAZINE |2018
For someone who grew up embracing hockey from an early age, this was a real slice of Canadiana. I realized I had never attended a Junior B game in my life and I had only attended Junior A games in large metropolitan areas. This hockey experience was going to be different. It was a step back to a simpler time. And first impressions did not disappoint. Credit cards were not allowed, as it was cash only at the ticket wicket. Taking our money were two smiling teenage girls standing behind a plastic, rectangular table. The two teens, like everyone else working this day inside the arena, were volunteers. Everything — and I mean everything — was refreshing. Beer, a local cold, craft brew, was $5. The last beer I had at an NHL game came in at more than that double the price. Throughout the NDCC and the neighboring 83-yearold Civic arena, are assorted tributes to Nelson’s hockey history that are part of the Nelson Sports Museum. The list of featured players from Nelson is impressive, including superstar brothers Lester and Frank Patrick — often credited with creating modern hockey with several innovations, including the addition of blue lines, the forward pass and the penalty shot. Others honored in the glassed showcases around the outside of both arenas include NHL stars Danny
Gare, Pat Price and Greg Adams. The game itself was a riveting, hard-hitting affair that stayed scoreless until the third period. Defenceman Ethan Land broke the shutout early in the third and the Leafs went on to defeat the Nitehawks 2-0. Leafs captain Sawyer Hunt, who was interviewed by Ron MacLean as a nine-year-old during Nelson’s hockey day almost 11 years earlier, did pick up a couple of assists in a 2-0 win. It was a fitting end to my hockey day. But I needed to learn more about that historic corner. Nesteroff filled in the holes. “The downtown area of the town was known as Stanley for a few months in 1888. The name was changed because there was a village in the Cariboo also known as Stanley,” explained Nesteroff, adding that the Cariboo Stanley became a ghost town a short time later. Nelson was re-named in honor of then-BC Lt.-Gov. Hugh Nelson and a year later several streets of the new town were named, including Stanley. “Neither Lord Stanley nor Hugh Nelson ever visited Nelson,” said Nesteroff, adding that both names were chosen by a local official in a bid to boost interest in the town. Two decades later, Earl Grey did spend time here and transformed a small corner of Nelson into a remarkable piece of sports history.
The corner of Stanley and Victoria streets in downtown Nelson, looking east towards the Legion Branch #51 building. Photo by Gary Poignant
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