Measuring Master for Slopers From Our Text The Practical Guide to Patternmaking for Fashion Designers: Juniors, Misses, and Women By Lori Knowles Fundamentals of Patternmaking Instructor: Joan McKenna
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Needs List & Notes for Measurement Taking Text Used: The Practical Guide to Patternmaking for Fashion Needs List: Fairly new Measuring Tape (One that has not stretched, yet.) Crotch/Underarm Measuring Tape (If you can find one.) 2 yards Weighted Cord (Ends knotted so that lead shot will NEVER come out) ¼ inch elastic - cut into 4 pieces (Each piece must be the equivalent to hip measurement + 2 inches OR bust measurement + 2 inches…..WHICH EVER IS BIGGER !) Quilt Quality Safety Pins – Size 2. Quantity: Around 30 Washable Magic Markers Dressmaker’s Chalk Yard Stick Great Fitting Bra Tight “T” shirt and Exercise Shorts or a Body Suit. (Will get MARKED UP.) Pencils and Erasers Calculator Notes: Lori Knowles did NOT write this book for zaftig women. For each measuring team, you need: a Victim, a Measurement Taker, & a Scribe. Try not to wear black. No Shoes. Socks OK. Garment seams ARE distracting. Measure to the nearest 1/8 of an inch. Give the VICTIM breaks or she will lose her posture. Don’t baste any lines…..This is TOO detailed and a waste of time. Chose your “biggest” side to measure: Right or Left. Front or Back. Use Weighted Cord for plumb lines and curved lines. Plan on spending ONLY 1 hour on each VICTIM. You MUST finish each member of your “team” before YOU go home. Prepping Live Models: Figure # 2.6 Use Weighted Cord 2.7 Measure Around the Bust – first 2.9 There are 2 hips: Stomach-HIGH HIP & Derriere-LOW HIP 2.10 Use Weighted Cord 2.11 This line is also called the Horizontal Balance Line. (HBL) 2.12 Use Weighted Cord 2.13 Use Weighted Cord. Mark entire underarm bodice side seam.
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Women’s Measurements for Lori Knowles Text with Additions Measurements were taken on the RIGHT / LEFT side of my body. (Circle One) 1.
Shoulder Girth Level (Fig 2.15): ______
16. Half the Back Neckline: ______
2.
Total Upper Chest Level: ______
17: Center Back Neck to Shoulder Tip: ______
3.
Total Bust Level: ______
18. Halfway Across Shoulder Blades: ______ HBL from crease to crease: ______
Cup Size (page 42): ______ 19. Half the Back Upper Chest: ______ Bra Size (page 42): ______ 20. Half the Back Bust Level: ______ 4.
Total Rib Cage Level: ______ 21: Half the Back Rib Cage Level: ______
5.
Total Waist Level: ______ NOTE: Waists are not straight.
22. Half the Back Waist: ______
Total Front Waist: ______
23: Dart Placement (Measure This): ______
Total Back Waist: ______
24: Side Seam Length: ______
6.
Shoulder Seam: ______
25: High Neck to Front Side Seam: ______
7.
Half the Front Neckline: ______
26. High Neck to back Side Seam: ______
Neckline Circumference: ______
27. Center Front Length: ______
8.
CFront Neckline to Shoulder Tip: ______
28: Front Total Length: ______
9.
Half the Front to Mid-Armhole: ______
29. Shoulder Tip to Center Front Waist: ______
10: Half the Front Upper Chest: ______
30: Shoulder Tip to Apex: ______
11. Half the Front Bust Level: ______
31. Bust Radius: ______
12. Half the Front Rib Cage Level: ______
Areola Diameter: ______
13. Bust Span: ______
32. Center Back Length: ______
14. Half the Bust Span: ______
33. Back Total Length: ______
15. Half the Front Waist: ______
→ 34. Shoulder Tip to Center Back Waist: ______
Don’t Check Your Measurements – KEEP MEASURING !
47. Half the Back Low Hip: ______ Half the Back High Hip: ______
35. Total Arm Length: ______ (Hold Tape at Shoulder) CB to Shoulder Tip, Down Arm, Around Bent Elbow to Wrist: ______ (Men’s Arm Measurement)
48. Outseam/Side Seam to Floor: ______ 49: Inseam to the Floor: ______
36. Underarm Length: ______
50: Crotch Depth: ______ (Sit straight on a flat surface & measure depth at side seam)
37. Forearm Length: ______
51. Outseam to Ankle: ______
38: Biceps Circumference: ______
52. Inseam to Ankle: ______
39: Elbow Circumference: ______
53. Crotch Length: ______
40: Wrist Circumference: ______ 41: Hand Circumference: ______
Front Crotch Length: ______ Subtract FCL from #53 to get the following: Back Crotch Length: ______
Stomach & Derriere Circumference: ______ 54. Total Thigh Circumference: ______ 42: Total Low Hip Measurement: ______ Total High Hip Measurement: ______ Panty Size (page 42) Letter & #: ________ 43: Low Hip Depth at Center Front: ______ High Hip Depth at Center Front: ______ 44. Low Hip Depth at Side Seam: ______ High Hip Depth at Side Seam: ______ 45. Low Hip Depth at Center Back: ______
Mid-Knee Circumference: ______ (With straight leg) 55. Total Calf Circumference: ______ 56. Knee Level from Waist: ______ 57: Knee Level to Ankle Level: ______ 58: Total Ankle Circumference: ______ 59: Foot Circumference: ______ Head Circumference: ______ (Where hat sits)
High Hip Depth at Center Back: ______ Hat Size (page 42) Letter & #: ________ 46: Half the Front Low Hip: ______ Half the Front High Hip: ______
Don’t Check Your Measurements – Change Jobs & Keep Measuring !