London Fashion Week Round Up

Wordsby:JasonKwame

London Fashion Week might still have a pulse - AW23 roundup

London’s fashion week has always been a hub for budding fashion creativity. Vivienne Westwood’s recent passing and funeral service was a touching reminder of that. It goes without saying though, London fashion was hit hard by the pandemic, Brexit and the death of a monarch. Shows were canceled back-to-back and even upon return strong collections were still waning. Our brightest talents, like Bianca Saunders and Maximilian Davis of Salvatore Ferragamo fame, received bigger opportunities overseas in Paris and Milan where the ruling fashion houses reside.

But this AW23 for sure proved that not all hope is lost. There is a design revival happening in London. British creativity and London Fashion Week still has a pulse, with designers still persevering and bringing new perspectives to fashion. From Burberry to Mowalola Ogunlesi, I’ve saved you the trouble and picked four of the noteworthy designers and their shows that put on for the city of London this season.

Mowalola brings it back home with a nostalgia-filled collection

Renowned designer Mowalola Ogunlesi is under the radar. Her fashion show still managed to create a Twitter frenzy with a thought-provoking AW23 offering. Going against the grain, the British-Nigerian designer - known for her work and appointment under Ye at Yeezy Gap and pieces worn by Drake - brought a collection full of novelty fun, childhood memories and Black cultural staples. From oversized New York Yankees belt buckles, trucker hats to the side, to the classic fresh brown Timbs holding up the hems of heavy denim bootcut jeans. One dress even brought back the days of the CD, with a conveniently placed ‘INSERT DISC HERE’ print and arrow. With front row onlookers featuring Coi Leray and Skepta, the most favored look was the leather pants with airbrush stenciled hand prints along the thigh, which Ogunlesi teased on IG a few days before the show.

Some on social media argued that the designs screamed OG African American sensibilities and ideas. Africans around the rest of the world argued back “Of course it did. We grew up watching BET and MTV in Nigeria and the UK just like you.”

It seems that the latter was Ogunlesi’s point, especially after seeing the green leather tee with US passport-style font on the front. Nigerian passports are traditionally green so it was a genius blend of both worlds. But hey, from Alexander McQueen to Victoria Beckham, a strong London fashion week collection always sparks conversation. Ogunlesi understood the assignment.

Daniel Lee’s take on British flagship Burberry

With bated breath and high anticipation, the fashion world gathered with great expectations for designer Daniel Lee’s debut at Burberry this season. This comes after his abrupt and unexplained departure from Bottega Veneta in 2021, leaving his New Bottega cult lovers and consumers missing his Midas touch. Rumors swirled with no sign of letting up…

Once the announcement of his move to Burberry - and the brand’s subtle font change - was confirmed, tons of think-pieces and articles were written with the same questions asked.

“Would Daniel Lee deliver in translating his modern, highly desirable take on fashion to a traditional heritage brand like Buberry?”

“How would he pick up where former designer Riccardo Tisci left off?”

“Was this the right move? The right choice?”

The fashion jury seem to agree that 37-yearold British-born Lee delivered with this mens and womenswear collection. With industry heavyweights like rapper Future, Beats founder and music executive Jimmy Iovine and the timeless Naomi Campbell front row, Lee brought his signature deep greens, blues and purples in place of Burberry’s usual nude and neutral brown tones.

With luxury sweaters and zip turtlenecks, shawl and wrap style blouses and loud, heavy jackets, he put a pause on the legendary brown baby shower checkered shirts, bringing brightness and variety to the Burberry check pattern - also known as the quintessentially British “tartan.”

Without fail, the show exhibited Lee’s eyecatching and coveted accessories that once had shoppers lining up for. Take the side bags with fur - most likely faux fur - attached that resembled the tails of the British fox, with oversized trapper hats to match. Then there were the earmuffs and heels, heavily padded with fur of different shades - maroons to blacks. Don’t forget the sleek, suede-looking boots and logomania oversized scarves. The traditionally modest and unmissable Burberry Trench was revamped in a new gray tone, lined with green fur collars and lapels.

Lee’s love of leather trousers and scrunched pouch handbags made an appearance too. To top it all off the designer paid homage to the English Rose with rose-shaped embellishments, rose fabric patterns and modern rose graphic tees.

Lee’s confident and forward take on Burberry - one that is dedicated to color, individuality and that new rich aunty/uncle luxury feel - will have even the doubters trusting his takeover at Burberry.

Chet Lo pays homage to all the creative creatures

Chet Lo’s AW23 show merged the animalistic with the futuristic and fantastical. Fittingly titled “Bioluminescence” — which describes the beautiful, yet threatening light a jellyfish gives off for example — Lo’s designs were a perfect interpretation.

With black leathers treated with dye at the edges to give off a radioactive-looking glow, to the spiky black sweaters, hoodies and skirts dipped in bold red tones too, the show was seemingly all about this concept of dangerous attraction. The Asian American designer - born in New York and graduated in London - also delivered silk tops with elongated sleeves and matching skirts that took a page out of the regal East Asian, Oriental culture.

The model makeup and details brought fun and cheekiness back to the runway, with redand blue-colored tongues and slick buns that complete the animated creature vibe of the show.

The rise and shine of Nensi Dojaka

For only a few years now, newcomer designer Nensi Dojaka’s skintight designs have caught the eyes (and bodies) of Zendaya, Beyoncé and Dua Lipa.

Having reached every designer’s northstar with an LVMH prize win in 2021, she now has a few notches on her belt* and earned stripes (or straps). Dojaka took things up a notch this season, adding more options to her signature sheer and delicate, cross strap design dresses. The AW23 collection saw signs of elevation and design maturity, with Dojaka, for example, slowly introducing staple, oversized jackets and blazers tailored to a T! Denim trousers with lace thigh designs and nude Swarovski dresses made to give a snowdrop feel were all part of this new level for Dojaka. Necessary additions were made without losing the original feel of the brand’s unique identity!

*Nensi Dojaka also benefited from the BritishFashionCouncil’sNewGeninitiative, spotlighting graduate designers with fresh ideas. So Dojaka of course waves the flag, proving London may be back in the top rankingsforfashionweekcities.