Fashion & Textiles

Edited by Glyn Davis, University of St Andrews, UK & Laura Guy, The Glasgow School of Art, UK The first book devoted to the exploration of queer print cultures in Europe, illustrated throughout with unearthed material from archives and personal collections. Including manifestos, flyers, posters, zines and other forms of print media, it features interviews with those responsible for making, distributing or archiving queer print alongside theoretical essays that set particular publications and producers in context. This book examines how the production and dissemination of queer print intersected with the emergence of LGBTQ+ activism and identifies both the significant contribution that queer print has made to histories of LGBTQ+ struggle and to the history of print design. Paul Jobling, Parsons New School, Paris, France, Philippa Nesbitt, Ryerson University, Canada & Angelene Wong, Parsons New School, Paris, France How has the fashion industry responded to turn-ofthe-millennium non-binary identities? Do they have a supportive or exploitative relationship with queer, trans and ageing subjects? Fashion, Identity, Image unpacks these questions and many more in relation to clothing and representation, identity and body politics in British, European and American culture between 1990 and 2020. Jobling, Nesbitt and Wong have produced a timely and probing consideration of the impact of marginalised and non-binary groups on fashionable identities, embracing queer and trans activism, biotechnologies and the ageing body.

UK June 2022 • US June 2022 • 256 pages • 100 colour illus PB 9781350273498 • £24.99 / $34.95 • HB 9781350158665 • £75.00 / $100.00 ePub 9781350158672 • £22.49 / $29.96 ePdf 9781350158689 • £22.49 / $29.96 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Dress Cultures

UK May 2022 • US May 2022 • 224 pages • 40 colour illus PB 9781350183209 • £21.99 / $29.95 • HB 9781350183216 • £65.00 / $90.00 ePub 9781350183230 • £19.79 / $26.05 ePdf 9781350183223 • £19.79 / $26.05 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Reina Lewis, London College of Fashion, UK and Elizabeth Wilson, UK

Fashion in Altermodern China

Feng Jie, Southwest University of China, China Fashion in Altermodern China examines key features and particularities of women’s fashion within the cultural and political context of contemporary China. While demonstrating that global brands and styles heavily influence Chinese consumer trends, it equally argues that the Chinese fashion ‘system’ is formed of its own internal logics and emergent trends. For women in contemporary China, the flux of available fashions is experienced in a more open neutral manner than is typically described in current scholarship; and through incorporating both Western and Asian philosophies, this book reveals new ways to understand how women engage in fashion in China today.

UK April 2022 • US April 2022 • 160 pages • 5 bw illus HB 9781350200067 • £75.00 / $100.00 ePub 9781350200098 • £67.50 / $88.59 ePdf 9781350200081 • £67.50 / $88.59 Series: Dress Cultures • Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Fashioning the Afropolis

Histories, Materialities and Aesthetic Practices

Edited by Kerstin Pinther, Ludwig Maximilian University, Germany, Kristin Kastner, Ludwig Maximilian University, Germany & Basile Ndjio, University of Douala, Central Africa Fashioning the Afropolis provides a range of innovative perspectives on global fashion, design, dress, photography, and the body in some of the major cities in sub-Saharan Africa, with a focus on Lagos, Johannesburg, Dakar, and Douala. 'Fashion' and 'city' have not been systematically related to each other in the African context and, for too long, a western-centric gaze has dominated scholarship, resulting in the perception of Africa as provincial and its visual arts and textile cultures as static and folkloristic. Leading scholars offer an updated foundation on which to base new, exciting research on sub-Saharan fashion, challenging perceptions and offering new insights.

UK June 2022 • US June 2022 • 272 pages • 70 bw illus HB 9781350179523 • £85.00 / $115.00 ePub 9781350179547 • £76.50 / $100.32 ePdf 9781350179530 • £76.50 / $100.32 Series: Dress Cultures • Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Silhouettes of the Soul

Meditations on Fashion, Religion, and Subjectivity

Edited by Otto von Busch, Parsons School of Design, USA & Jeanine Viau, University of Central Florida, USA What is the relationship between the soul and the second skin - or clothing - in the making of identity and belief? How does religious and political belonging, respectability, and resistance impact on the way in which we dress? Historically, fashionable dress and religion have been positioned as polar opposites; Silhouettes of the Soul brings them together, placing them in conversation with each other, moving beyond traditional, social scientific and historical analysis of religious attire and adornment to approach the topics from a variety of approaches and disciplines and across regional, social and religious locations.

UK February 2022 • US February 2022 • 208 pages • 17 bw illus HB 9781350179905 • £85.00 / $115.00 ePub 9781350179929 • £76.50 / $100.32 ePdf 9781350179912 • £76.50 / $100.32 Series: Dress Cultures • Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Reading Marie al-Khazen’s Photographs

Gender, Photography, Mandate Lebanon

Yasmine Nachabe Taan, Lebanese American University, Lebanon In the first book to comprehensively explore the photography of Marie al-Khazen, Yasmine Nachabe Taan reveals images which demonstrate formal experimentation and show people from different classes, cultures and gender groups comfortably sharing the same space. The book examines how notions of gender and class are inscribed in the photographs and reveals that while some photographs portray conventional lives in Lebanese villages, others are charged with symbols of female emancipation to today’s viewers.

UK May 2022 • US May 2022 • 192 pages • 53 bw illus PB 9781350191624 • £28.99 / $39.95 Previously published in HB 9781788314800 ePub 9781350111585 • £67.50 / $88.59 ePdf 9781350111578 • £67.50 / $88.59 Series: Dress Cultures • Bloomsbury Visual Arts

A Cultural Study of French Readymade Fashion, 1945-68

Alexis Romano, Independent Scholar, USA Through a close study of fashion magazines, including Vogue and Elle, Alexis Romano reveals how French readymade fashion and the genre of fashion photography in France developed in tandem. Analyses of representations of space, women and prêtà-porter in such magazines – alongside other cultural ephemera such as contemporary film, documentary photography and family photographs – demonstrate that popular conceptions of fashion and modernity shifted in the period 1945-68. By connecting national and personal histories, Prêt-à-Porter, Paris and Women reveals the importance of the readymade to broader narratives of postwar reconstruction, national identity, gender and international dialogue.

UK April 2022 • US April 2022 • 272 pages • 16 colour and 38 bw illus PB 9781350215931 • £23.99 / $32.95 • HB 9781350126190 • £75.00 / $100.00 ePub 9781350126213 • £21.59 / $28.65 ePdf 9781350126206 • £21.59 / $28.65 Series: Fashion: Visual & Material Interconnections • Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Regional Dress

Between Tradition and Modernity

Sara Hume, Kent State University Museum, USA Through a rich variety of primary sources including costumes, illustrations, political cartoons, legal documents and oral histories, Regional Dress sheds light on the little known and rarely documented experiences of rural Europeans. Using Alsace as a case study, it looks at how traditional dress evolved in France and Germany from the 19th to 21st centuries, revealing how modernity did not drive out tradition in rural communities but rather led to processes of adaption, preservation and re-evaluation. Its material culture approach to the study of regionalism is essential to students of traditional and folk dress history, European history and design history.

UK June 2022 • US June 2022 • 272 pages • 16 color and 84 bw illus HB 9781350147980 • £85.00 / $115.00 ePub 9781350148000 • £76.50 / $100.32 ePdf 9781350147997 • £76.50 / $100.32 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Dressing and Undressing Duchamp

Ingrid E. Mida, Independent Art and Dress Historian, Artist and Curator, Canada Marcel Duchamp’s engagement with clothing has been little-studied. However, photographs of the artist immediately reveal his knowledge of the significance of fashion and clothing to the visual representation of the self. This book explores clothing and dressing as significant themes that recur in Duchamp’s life and his work – including his drawings, his fashioning of his body, his readymades, and his curatorial gestures. In considering the material traces of Duchamp’s fashioning of his body and identity, this book makes a highly original contribution to the understanding of his work and the significance of the clothed body in the vanguard of Modernism.

UK June 2022 • US June 2022 • 224 pages • 42 bw and colour illus HB 9781350236110 • £85.00 / $115.00 ePub 9781350236141 • £76.50 / $100.32 ePdf 9781350236134 • £76.50 / $100.32 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Everyday Fashion in Found Photographs

American Women of the late Nineteenth Century

Lisa Hodgkins, Pima Community College, Arizona, USA Everyday Fashion in Found Photographs presents iconic garments and provides an overview of fashion influences for each decade from the 1860s to the 1890s, exploring in detail the clothes worn by everyday American women. Previously unpublished vintage photographs show women across the social spectrum wearing items such as the Garibaldi shirt, the cuirass bodice, the Mother Hubbard, bicycle bloomers and much more, allowing the reader to learn about elements of late 19th century women’s dress and develop an understanding of what was fashionable, and why.

UK August 2022 • US August 2022 • 304 pages • 190 bw and color illus PB 9781350249899 • £24.99 / $34.95 • HB 9781350249851 • £75.00 / $100.00 ePub 9781350249875 • £22.49 / $29.96 ePdf 9781350249868 • £22.49 / $29.96 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Fear and Clothing

A Cultural History of Identity through Dress in English Detective Fiction Between the First and Second World Wars

Jane Custance Baker, Independent Scholar, UK Dress in English detective fiction was a status marker of interest to both male and female readers made anxious by social change brought about by war, and therefore a set of signs to be read, digested, and possibly employed to model the individual reader’s own dress choices. Through analysing dress in detective fiction, this book reveals a cultural history of identity affected by the social upheaval caused by war. In-depth analysis of 280 interwar publications by a comprehensive range of writers reveals readership’s anxieties about performance of class, gender, and race and how they changed over that period.

UK June 2022 • US June 2022 • 256 pages • 35 bw illus HB 9781350240308 • £85.00 / $115.00 ePub 9781350240339 • £76.50 / $100.32 ePdf 9781350240322 • £76.50 / $100.32 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Worn

Footwear, Attachment and the Affects of Wear

Ellen Sampson, Northumbria University, UK

Shortlisted for the Association of Dress Historians Book of the Year Award, 2021

In a culture and fashion system preoccupied by newness, what is the significance of worn clothes and why do they have the power to affect us so deeply? By focussing on a single garment, the shoe, this book seeks to explore the nature of these relationships and the ways they are reinforced through wearing and repairing. With beautiful photographs and an experimental practicebased methodology, Worn invites us to deepen knowledge through wearing and reconsider marks of use at a time when fast fashion reigns supreme and interest in damaged garments quietly increases.

UK January 2022 • US January 2022 • 272 pages • 105 color illus PB 9781350294547 • £21.99 / $29.95 Previously published in HB 9781350087187 ePub 9781350087194 • £63.00 / $83.38 ePdf 9781350087200 • £63.00 / $83.38 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Yuniya Kawamura, Fashion Institute of Technology, USA & Jung-Whan Marc de Jong, Fashion Institute of Technology, USA Is it ever appropriate to “borrow” culturally inspired ideas? Who has ownership over intangible culture? What role does power inequality play? In this book, Kawamura and de Jong tackle these questions relating to cultural appropriation in fashion and entertainment, using sociological analysis to explore international examples and engage with the passionate debates that surround them as well as the implications for designers, artists and consumers.

UK June 2022 • US June 2022 • 184 pages • 40 bw illus PB 9781350170551 • £19.99 / $26.95 • HB 9781350170544 • £65.00 / $90.00 ePub 9781350170575 • £17.99 / $23.44 ePdf 9781350170568 • £17.99 / $23.44 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Fashion Wholesaling

From Manufacturer to Retailer

Linda B. Tucker, California Polytechnic University, Pomona, USA Get to know the activities, processes and people involved in fashion wholesaling and its crucial role in the wider international industry. From working with fashion vendors, to the different selling environments of trade shows and trend forecasting companies, and working in different territories, Fashion Wholesaling is the ultimate guide to an often overlooked but rewarding career path. As part of the Basics Fashion Management series, Tucker uses clearly illustrated, real-world examples to provide hands-on advice from all levels of the industry.

UK May 2022 • US May 2022 • 176 pages • 60 colour illus PB 9781350169838 • £21.99 / $29.95 ePub 9781350169869 • £19.79 / $26.05 ePdf 9781350169876 • £19.79 / $26.05 Series: Basics Fashion Management • Bloomsbury Visual Arts

A Philosophy of Textile

Between Practice and Theory

Catherine Dormor, Middlesex University, UK Textile is at once language, concept and material object. Philosophers such as Plato and Derrida have notably drawn on weaving processes to illustrate their ideas and artists such as Louise Bourgeois explored matters such as the needle and thread. This book brings together for the first time the work of thinkers such as Barthes, Cixous and Irigaray and international artists Eva Hesse and Helen Chadwick to put forward a new philosophy of textile. Exploring the material behaviours and philosophical language of folding, shimmering, seaming, viscosity and fraying, Dormor demonstrates how textile practice and theory are intricately woven together.

UK June 2022 • US June 2022 • 160 pages • 26 colour illus PB 9781350195837 • £28.99 / $39.95 Previously published in HB 9781472525659 ePub 9781472587251 • £76.50 / $100.32 ePdf 9781472587268 • £76.50 / $100.32 Bloomsbury Visual Arts Britishness, Heritage, Labour and Consumption

Sian Weston, University for the Creative Arts, UK Global fashion markets, particularly those aimed at prosperous millennial consumers in Asia, are in thrall to Burberry, and connect the company’s output in the 21st century to a quintessential notion of British tradition. The Changing Face of Burberry examines how the company successfully built this sense of tradition and how it has retained and capitalised on it within contemporary consumer culture, providing an authoritative account of shifting forms of British identity, consumer culture and fashion production over two centuries.

UK June 2022 • US June 2022 • 256 pages • 51 bw illus HB 9781350179608 • £85.00 / $115.00 ePub 9781350179622 • £76.50 / $100.32 ePdf 9781350179615 • £76.50 / $100.32 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Textiles and Fashion

From Fabric Construction to Surface Treatments

Jenny Udale, Open College of the Arts, UK Textiles and Fashion explores the role of textile design in fashion by showing the links with technical innovation and social developments. It then focuses on the processes of textile design, including ethical and sustainable issues, and provides practical information on fibre production, dyeing and finishing techniques. Various surface treatments are explored, as well as the way in which colour and trend influences fashion and textiles. This third edition includes expanded coverage of emerging technologies available for producing fibers, fabrics and finishes in production and additional construction diagrams and embroidery examples.

UK May 2022 • US May 2022 • 200 pages • 200 colour illus PB 9781350094895 • £21.99 / $29.95 ePub 9781350241855 • £19.79 / $26.05 ePdf 9781350094918 • £19.79 / $26.05 Series: Basics Fashion Design • Bloomsbury Visual Arts