Sample pages: Apparel Design through Patternmaking

WOMEN’S PANT SLOPER

Pant Pattern Terminology

Center front (C.F.)

Dart C.B. C.F.

Front crotch curve

Hip line

Center back (C.B.) Back crotch curve

Crotch line Crotch line

Knee line Knee line

Dart Crease line (Center of Pant)

Hip line

Inseam Outseam Inseam Outseam

Hem line Hem line

Waist line Waist line Figure 2.6

Hip Circumference (#3) 37”

Crotch Depth (POM #21) 11”

Pants Sloper Length (POM #17) 39”

Crease line (Center of Pant)

TORSO

FOUNDATIONS AND VARIATIONS

TORSO VARIATION EXAMPLES

Torso Foundations

The torso foundation is a block pattern fitting from shoulder to hip line, through the waist. Tops, shirts, blouses, dresses, tunics, jackets, and coats can all be developed from the torso foundation. There are many torso variations from which varied fit and style can be achieved. Darts, dart equivalent seamlines, and ease all contribute to the fit and silhouette of torso variations. Through manipulating darts, ease can be increased and decreased to provide opportunities to achieve any desired fit. It is important to remember that the word “fit” does not necessarily imply that a garment hugs the body or is closely fitted. Fit, a component closely related to silhouette, is one of the most malleable elements with which a designer may experiment. More than one type of fit may be presented in the same garment, as in a one-piece dress with tight-fitting bodice and a loose, flared, or circular skirt.

Ease, in any form, is an important concept in pattern drafting and design development. Design, preference, fabrication, and functionality must be considered when evaluating the degree of ease for any design development. Tightly fitted garments made of stretch knit fabrics often employ negative ease, meaning the garment produced is smaller than that of the human form—leggings, for example. Woven blouses, that contain no stretch, must include ease to fit.

Decreasing/Increasing

Ease

and Dart Intake (Figures 3.2 and 3.3)

Adding or reducing ease impacts the fit and shaping of a garment. Reducing ease results in a tighter fit, while increasing the amount of ease results in a looser fit.

Figure 3.2

Decreased circumferential ease can be achieved by a reduction of ease at C.B. and the side seams, resulting in a closer fit.

Figure 3.3

Increased circumferential ease can be achieved by eliminating the front waist dart and extending the waistline to reduce side seam shaping.

Decreasing circumference

Increasing circumference

Figure 3.2

Figure 3.3

C.F.

Pant Hip Circumference (Figure 4.13)

Adjust the hip circumference by reducing or increasing the hip line. Depending on the degree in which the hip is increased or decreased, pattern adjustments may also occur along the side seam and waistline to maintain a smooth hip curve.

Pant Hip Circumference (Figure 4.14)

• Determine the measurement to be added or subtracted at the hip (ex: 2”).

• X (•) = Divide the measurement by 4 as each pattern piece is one-fourth of the pant (ex: ½”).

• A (•) = One-half of X (ex: ¼”).

• B (•) = One-eighth of X (ex: 1⁄8”).

• C (•) = One-eighth of X (ex: 1⁄16”).

Adjustment 1: Greater than 1½” to be taken in/let out. Note, if the degree of adjustment is more than 1½” the new hip curve may be too

extreme, therefore it may be necessary to reduce or increase the waistline to maintain a smooth hip curve.

• Measure X (ex: ½”) in/out from the side seam at hip line to reduce/increase the hip circumference.

• Measure A (ex: ¼”) in/out from the side waist to reduce/increase the waist circumference.

X(○)= One-fourth of entire adjustment Original pattern C(♦)= One-eight of X ■ ● ○ ○ ○

A(●)= One-half of X B(■)= One-fourth of X ○

● ♦ ♦ Figure 4.14

Figure 4.13a Big Hip Circumference

Figure 4.13b Small Hip Circumference

Jeans Seam Allowance (Figure 5.9)

Women Jean PT SizeWaistband-Front Cut 4

⅜”-½”

¾” ½”-⅝” ½”-⅝”

½”(all around)

Women Jean PT SizeBack yoke Cut 2

½” ½” ½”

⅜”-½” ½”

Women Jean PT SizeWaistband-Back Cut 2

½”(all around)

Women Jean PT Sizefront-Shield Cut 1

Women Jean PT SizeFront-Fly Cut 1

Women Jean PT SizeFront Cut 2

½”(all around) 1½”-2” 1½”-2”

½”-⅝” ½”-⅝” ½”-⅝” ½”-⅝”

Women Jean PT SizeBack Cut 2

⅜”-½” ⅜”-½” ⅜”-½” ⅜”-½”

Figure 5.9

½”

Women Jean PT SizeFront Pocket-Pouch Cut 2

½” ½”-⅝”

½”-⅝”

Women Jean PT SizeFront Pocket-facing Cut 2

¾”-1”

½”-⅝” ½”-⅝” ½” ½” ½”

Women Jean PT SizeBack-Pocket Cut 2

Multiple Waistline Darts, Waistline Tucks, and Waistline Gathering (Figure 6.16)

Waistline Tucks Waistline Gathering Waistline Darts Drawing 6.23

• Trace the front bodice sloper and cut out the waist dart intake

• A, B = Draw a desired guide line that is parallel (ex: 1”), to the dart legs to 1¼” below B.P. then connect them to the bust point as illustrated.

• Cut the guide lines from the waistline to the bust point.

• Close the bust dart and open the slashed guide lines equally

• Darts, tucks, or gathering can be created as illustrated.

B.L.

X(B.P.) A B

C.F. 1” 1”

Darts close 1¼” 2”-3”

C.F. A B B B

B.L.

• True the side line and the waistline. B.L.

Figure 6.16

Tucks Gathering close close

C.F. A B B B A B B B True True

C.F. B.L.

SEAMLINE SHAPING AND INSET FULLNESS TORSO VARIATIONS:

SHAPED SEAMLINES, INSET GODETS, INSET PLEATS

Seamline fullness, inset godets, and inset pleats can be applied to nearly any seamline. The following torso variations utilize the same pattern making methodology outlined in Figures 7.12-7.14.

Drawing 7.27

Princess Seam Torso with Seamline Shaping (Figure 7.28)

• Trace the Princess Seam (Armhole) Torso Variation (Figures 6.19-6.20).

• Refer to Figure 7.12 to shape princess seamlines, adding additional fullness.

• True the hem line as illustrated.

W.L.

Truing hem line

Figure 7.28

Seamline Shaping and Inset Fullness Torso Variations: Shaped Seamlines, Inset Godets, Inset Pleats

MANIPULATING SLEEVE PATTERNS

Sleeve patterns can be manipulated using principle patternmaking methodologies, most significantly slash-and-spread. Additional fullness can be added to many parts of the sleeve resulting in varied silhouettes, styles, shapes, and forms. Cuffs, bands, seam lines, elastics, and many other elements can control fullness through gathering, pleating, and tucking. 1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4

Drawing 13.7

Drawing 13.8

SHIRT, BLOUSE, JACKET, AND COAT APPLICATIONS

Learning Objectives

• Explore design development using torso variations, collars, necklines, sleeves, and details in modular practice.

• Understand the appropriate applications of modular units to achieve functional, aesthetically pleasing designs.

• Develop personal design sensibility and aesthetic.

• Understand the relationship between modular pieces.

• Experiment with design from basic dimensions that have been suggested.

INTRODUCTION

Part 6 demonstrates modular practice through the combination of various foundational torso variations, sleeves, collars, design details, and more outlined in Parts 3, 4, and 5. The combination of these elements results in shirts, blouses, jackets, and coats of nearly infinite variation. When employing modular practice, it is important to begin with the correct foundational elements in accordance with the design to be patterned. For example, select the appropriate torso variation, relative to the desired fit, as the foundational block from which the pattern will be developed. Be sure to use the accompanying sleeve sloper as well. Fit can also be dependent on fabrication, as can the amount of ease required, be sure to consider the type of fabric to be used when choosing these foundational elements.

The following outlines modular practice. Selecting the correct pattern block, adding sleeve and collar variations, and choosing design and functional details.

MEN’S TRENCH COAT

Design Analysis

• Men’s wear mid-thigh length coat.

• Napoleon collar.

• Raglan sleeve on back and set-in sleeve on front with sleeve hem belt.

• Double breasted button closure.

• Waist belt and epaulettes.

• Slanted single welt pocket on waist.

Men’s Trench Coat

(Figure 16.26)

• Trace the Men’s Jacket Foundation (Figure 3.37).

• Lengthen from the hip line (ex: 10”–12”).

• Increase the front and back neck width and neck drop.

• Lower the chest line ¾” and reshape the armhole.

• Extend the chest and waist lines ¾” and the hem line 1”–1¼” beyond the side seams. Reshape the side seams as illustrated.

Napoleon Collar

• Refer to Figures 12.67–12.69.

Drawing 16.10 Figure 16.26

(ex:3”)

CHILDREN’S SAILOR COLLAR JUMPSUIT AND DRESS

The sailor collar jumpsuit and dress share the collar demonstrating modularity through the varied application of similar elements.

Drawing 18.8

Children’s Sailor Collar Jumpsuit (Figure 18.15)

• Trace the Children’s Jumpsuit Foundation (Figure 18.3).

• Extend the waist ½” beyond the side seam at bodice waistline and pant waistline. Extend the hip line ¼” beyond the outseam. Reshape the bodice side seam and pant outseam as illustrated.

• Draw a waistband guide line 5⁄8”–¾” above the top waistline and below the pant waistline.

C.F. C.B. ½″ ¼″

½″ ½″ ½″ ½″

W.L. W.L. ⅝″-¾″ ⅝″-¾″ ⅝″-¾″ ⅝″-¾″

¼″ H.L. H.L.

B.L. B.L. ½″

• Shorten the pant to knee level. K.L. K.L.

Figure 18.15

MODULAR PRACTICE: LAPEL COLLAR DESIGN DEVELOPMENT EXAMPLES

Jacket and coat variations can utilize a variety of torso foundations to develop a range of fit and silhouettes. In the examples outlined below, the lapel collar remains constant while the torso foundation, sleeve, design detail, styling, etc. create new variations ranging from formal jackets to casual coats. Drawing P6.3

Back Leotard (Figure 20.42)

• Trace the front leotard pattern including all guide lines except the bust point.

• A = Measure 7⁄8”–1” down from the front H.P.S.

• B = Draw a horizontal line from A, then square up from the center front neck point.

• Draw a curved back neck line from B to the H.P.S.

• Draw a straight guide line from (H) to (K).

• C = Square 1” out from the midpoint of line (H)–(K).

• Draw a smooth curved line connecting (H)–C–(K).

• E, F = Extend 1½” from (F)–(K).

• Blend the line F to C, touching 3⁄8” out from (K).

-1

(A) (F) E F

C.B. H.L. C (K)

⅜″ 1½″

(H)

1″

Waist line

Women

1/2 scale Bodice Sloper Size -8 Front Bust line 4.75”(12.1cm)

C.F.

B.P.

3. Children’s sloper sets

Hip line 3.36”(8.6cm)

Hip line 3.36”(8.6cm)

C.F. C.B.

Children 1/2 scale Skirt Sloper Size -7 Front

Children 1/2 scale Skirt Sloper Size -7 Back

Hem line Hem line