C ONTENTS 6 FOREWORD BY THOMAS KELLER 8 INTRODUCTION
ST a RTERS
10 80
M a IN COURSES 166
DESSERTS
214
B a SICS
230 INDEX 239 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
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When I first met Jason Atherton in London, the first thing I noticed was his approachability and warmth, layered with a boundless energy that was both affable and curious. My chef de cuisine of The French Laundry at the time, Eric Ziebold, and I chose to dine at Jason’s restaurant for its reputation. It was a wonderful experience – to our delight Jason took care of us that day and made a lasting impression. When I had the chance to taste his food for the first time, as a happy guest at Pollen Street Social, I saw this warmth and energy, refined and infused with innovative flavour profiles. Jason’s cuisine at Pollen Street Social and around the world takes the simple flavours of home – and homes around the world – and elevates them in dishes mastered with skill and technique. I know that it takes courage to cook simple food, and that is one way the great chefs are separated from the good ones. Jason is one of the greats. He’s the best of both worlds. He has the prowess of a Michelin-starred chef with accolades from every corner of the globe, but he is also the person you want to be preparing your Sunday supper.
I have known Jason for ten years, and throughout his ascent to success he has maintained a humility that is admirable. Jason is more than the praise he has garnered, and through his recipes in Social Suppers, you will sense that. He represents the next generation of chefs and the future of food. As he says, when you’re a cook, ‘you’ve got power in your hands – to entertain people, to impress people, to win over friends, family, lovers, whatever you want to do.’ When we experience Jason’s food, we gladly relinquish our power and turn it over to a person who nourishes us at the table and beyond. Thomas Keller, The French Laundry February 2014
In Social Suppers, Jason invites us into his home for one such dinner. From starters, main courses and desserts to learning the basics, he uses his incredible technique and approachable nature to walk you through each step. With dishes like fried eggs with black pudding, capers and anchovies; Mrs. Tee’s wild mushrooms on toast with bacon jam (named for his mushroom forager); and bone marrow, gentleman’s relish and onions on toast (so popular on his Hong Kong restaurant’s menu that they can’t remove it); you’ll experience recipes that have a strong foundation and yet take playful risks in ways that will surprise and delight.
FOREWORD
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I NTRODUCTION
9
During my life as a chef I have been very fortunate to have travelled to many different countries. Just the thought of travel gives me butterflies in my stomach – thinking about the styles of dishes I may encounter, the new recipes and cuisines I will discover, and the chefs I may meet and learn from. Travelling is one of life’s great luxuries. So when I was asked by my business partners in Asia, Mrs. Oei and Peng and Geoff, whether I would like to expand into Singapore with a new restaurant it was a big ‘YES’. It meant for the first time I could combine my love of travel and cooking in one restaurant. Esquina was born in Chinatown in Singapore with the talented Andrew Walsh. Seven restaurants later – spanning Hong Kong, Shanghai and Singapore – I sometimes think I have the best job in the world.
It might sound obvious, but the recipes in this book are all about flavours. When you cook anything – from a Michelin-starred dish to a simple salad – the thing that needs to come first, above everything else, is the flavour. I know from cooking these dishes time and again that the flavours harmonize beautifully, but you can add your own flair to these recipes; you don’t need to tie yourself to everything exactly as it’s written here – so be creative and let these recipes inspire you to make great food that you love.
When I am on a long-haul flight or just in a coffee shop grabbing some precious moments alone, I will write down all of the dishes that I would love to cook to share with my friends and family at home: food which I know is going to taste great and evoke memories of my travels for me. In this book are those dishes: recipes inspired by my restaurants from all around the world and by the food I have experienced while travelling to so many different countries. But you don’t have to travel far to have these memories and inspirations – I have also included dishes that are based right on my doorstep in Britain yet still have great meaning for me. I have recreated all the recipes for you to try in your own home. Some you will be familiar with and others not, but I urge you to taste them all.
These dishes are perfect for family and friends to share. I would love this book to inspire you to cook and I hope that you can use the joy of food and wine to bring your nearest and dearest back around the table to experience love, joy and laughter together. Happy cooking. Jason Atherton
INTRODUCTION
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SOCIAL SUPPERS
SPRING VEGETABLE TARTINE WITH CREAMED BURRATA 25
Since travelling to the South of France a long time ago, I have been crazy over tartines. Open-faced sandwiches have full impact as the bread acts like a plate on which beautiful ingredients are presented. Here, creamed burrata is spread on toast to form a base for gorgeous spring vegetables. It’s a simple and stunning dish that you can serve as a starter or alongside a bowl of spring vegetable soup for a light lunch.
SERVES 4 100g fresh peas (or use frozen but thaw them first) 100g fresh broad beans (or use frozen but thaw them first) 8 asparagus tips 10 breakfast radishes 200g cherry tomatoes, halved 1 spring onion, trimmed and thinly sliced on the diagonal 80ml Basic Vinaigrette (see page 222) 4 slices of sourdough 300g burrata extra-virgin olive oil 50g aged Comté cheese, a small handful of chervil, leaves only, to garnish a small handful of chives, finely chopped, to garnish a small handful of wild rocket, to garnish sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and have ready a large bowl of iced water. Blanch the peas, broad beans and asparagus separately until they are bright green and just tender; the peas and broad beans will take 2 minutes; the asparagus will take a minute longer. As soon as each vegetable is cooked, remove it with a slotted spoon and plunge it into the iced water immediately to stop the cooking. Once cooled, drain the vegetables and remove the tough outer skins from the broad beans. Slice the radishes as thinly as possible using a mandolin or a sharp knife. Place them in a bowl of iced water to keep them crisp. Put the cherry tomatoes and spring onions in a bowl. Tip in the blanched peas, broad beans and asparagus, then add the vinaigrette, season with salt and pepper and toss well. A few minutes before you are ready to serve, toast the sourdough. Meanwhile, drain the burrata and put into a large bowl with a pinch of salt and pepper. Beat the cheese with a spatula until it is creamy and smooth. Spread the burrata evenly over the toasted sourdough slices then place these on a serving plate. Spoon over the dressed vegetables. Drain the radishes and pat dry before arranging on top of the tartines. Drizzle over a little olive oil and sprinkle with a little salt and pepper, to taste. Shave the Comté over the tartines, then garnish with a sprinkling of chervil, chives and wild rocket leaves. Serve at once.
STARTERS
AVOCADO, BABY GEM, ORANGE AND SAUTÉED BABY CARROT SALAD 38
This is a really great citrus salad that has everything going for it: creamy avocado, zingy orange segments, fresh and crunchy Baby Gem leaves, and tender baby carrots. In the winter you can use clementines or grapefruits instead of oranges (or even Seville oranges when they start to arrive). In the early spring, try making this with gorgeous blood oranges.
SERVES 4 3 oranges 1 lime 1 tablespoon coriander seeds 1 tablespoon cumin seeds 75ml extra-virgin olive oil 16 young carrots with tops, about 600g a large knob of unsalted butter 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 ripe avocados 1 Little Gem lettuce, bases trimmed and leaves separated 3–4 tablespoons Basic Vinaigrette (see page 222) a handful of coriander leaves sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
First, segment the oranges. Cut off the skins and white pith from 2 of the oranges then cut out the orange segments in between the membranes. Juice the remaining orange and the lime and pass the juice through a fine sieve. Put the coriander and cumin seeds into a dry pan, place it over a high heat and heat the seeds until they are fragrant and lightly toasted. Tip the spices into a bowl and allow to cool before grinding them to a coarse powder using a pestle and mortar. Set aside half the ground spice and mix the rest with the orange and lime juice, olive oil and some salt and pepper to taste, to make a spiced dressing. Trim off the stalks of the young carrots and save the tender leaves for garnish. Heat the butter and oil in a pan until hot. Add the carrots and a bit of seasoning and toss to coat in the melted butter. Sauté over a medium heat for 7–10 minutes until the carrots are lightly golden brown and tender. Transfer the carrots to a plate lined with kitchen paper. Peel and stone the avocados then cut them into eighths. Place these into a bowl along with the carrots, orange segments and spiced dressing. Toss gently to coat. Select six of the nicest-looking lettuce leaves and cut them in half. Trim the rest of the leaves into neat oval pieces. Dress the lettuce with the vinaigrette.
SOCIAL SUPPERS
To serve, arrange the orange pieces, avocado, carrots and lettuce leaves on individual serving plates. Garnish with the coriander and carrot leaves and sprinkle with the reserved ground spice. Serve immediately.
39
STARTERS
SCALLOP CEVICHE WITH PICKLED FENNEL AND LEMON CONFIT 56
This is straight out of the repertoire of my flagship restaurant, Pollen Street Social. I adore tender raw scallops, and in this recipe their sweetness is accentuated by the lemon and fennel marinade.
SERVES 4 12 large scallops, cleaned and roe removed, cut in half horizontally 100ml Yuzu Wasabi Dressing (see page 223), plus extra to drizzle sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Confit Lemon Strips (see page 230), to garnish (optional) reserved fennel fronds or dill sprigs, to garnish For the pickled fennel 125ml muscatel or sherry vinegar 100ml white wine vinegar 100g caster sugar 1 star anise 1 cinnamon stick 3 cloves 1 teaspoon mustard seeds 1 large fennel bulb, preferably with fronds
First, make the pickled fennel. Put everything except the fennel into a small saucepan and place over a medium heat. Stir to melt the sugar. Once the sugar has dissolved, take the pan off the heat and leave to cool. Bring a pan of salted water to the boil and have ready a bowl of iced water. Trim the base of the fennel and reserve the fronds for garnish. Very finely slice the bulb or shave it using a mandolin. Blanch the sliced fennel for 1 minute, then drain and refresh in the iced water. Drain well again and then add the fennel to the pickling liquid. Let the flavours infuse for at least 30 minutes. (If making in advance, put the blanched fennel in a sterilised jar then pour over the pickling liquid, to cover. Seal and keep refrigerated until ready to use.) Place the scallops in a bowl and pour over the yuzu wasabi dressing then season with a little pinch of salt and pepper. Cover the bowl with cling film and let the scallops marinate in the refrigerator for about 20 minutes. When ready to serve, place 6 scallop halves on each serving plate. Drizzle over a little wasabi dressing. Top each scallop with a few confit lemon strips and a few slices of pickled fennel then garnish with the reserved fennel fronds or sprigs of dill. Sprinkle over a little sea salt and freshly ground pepper and serve.
SOCIAL SUPPERS
57
STARTERS
88
SOCIAL SUPPERS
CEP MUSHROOM PIZZA WITH BALSAMIC ONION CHUTNEY, MASCARPONE AND PARMESAN 86
This is a delicious vegetarian white pizza that I make when wild mushrooms come into season. The sweet nuttiness of fresh cep mushrooms is so satisfying, even die-hard carnivores would not hesitate to devour this pizza. When wild mushrooms are not available, or if you’re on a tight budget, ordinary chestnut mushrooms would work just as well. If you have a bottle of truffle oil to hand, drizzle a few drops over the pizza to lift the flavour of the mushrooms.
MAKES 4 2 tablespoons olive oil 400g cep mushrooms (or regular chestnut mushrooms if ceps are not in season), cleaned, trimmed and thickly sliced 2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped a few sprigs of thyme, leaves only 1 bay leaf a generous knob of butter 1 quantity of Pizza Dough (see page 229) 1 quantity of Balsamic Onion Chutney (see page 147) 200g mascarpone 175g mozzarella, grated 50g Parmesan shavings sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat the oil in a heavy-based pan until hot. Add the mushrooms, garlic, thyme, bay leaf and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Fry over a medium–high heat for 4–6 minutes until the mushrooms are golden brown and any moisture released has cooked off. Add the butter to the pan and as it melts and begins to foam, toss the mushrooms to coat. When you are ready to assemble the pizza, preheat the oven to 220°C/Gas Mark 7. Divide the dough into 4 pieces, then roll them out thinly on a lightly floured surface (they should be about 20cm wide). Lift the dough bases on to a couple of lightly floured baking sheets. Spread a quarter of the onion chutney over each pizza base. Place neat dollops of the mascarpone around the bases then arrange the mushrooms on top. Scatter over the mozzarella and Parmesan. Drizzle each pizza with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Bake for 8–10 minutes until the pizza edges are golden and crisp. Slice and serve immediately.
SOCIAL SUPPERS
HALIBUT WITH PARSLEY POTATOES, MORECAMBE BAY SHRIMPS AND ASPARAGUS 92
This is a lovely fish supper to cook in the late summer or early autumn when Morecambe Bay shrimps are in season. They provide an earthy and savoury intensity that really complements the halibut. It is also really easy to cook and the end result is outstanding. Instead of halibut, you could use brill, turbot or any other firm, flat fish.
SERVES 4 2 bunches of asparagus, woody ends removed and peeled 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 4 x 150g halibut fillets 1 tablespoon olive oil sea salt and freshly ground black pepper For the potatoes and shrimps 750g baby new potatoes, washed 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 tablespoon olive oil 400g Morecambe Bay shrimps or brown shrimps 300ml dry white wine 150ml double cream 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4. First, prepare the shrimps and potatoes. Put the potatoes into a large pan and cover with cold water. Add a generous pinch of salt and bring to the boil. Boil the potatoes for about 12–16 minutes until tender when pierced with a small knife. Drain well and return to the hot pan to allow them to dry off a little. For the shrimps, heat the butter and oil in a medium–hot pan. Add the potatoes and sauté for about 3 minutes, then add the shrimps and cook for another 2 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to remove the potatoes and shrimps to a warm plate. Pour the white wine into the pan and let it boil until reduced by half. Pour in the cream and return to the boil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Just before you are ready to serve, return the shrimps and potatoes to the sauce to warm through then add the parsley and mix well. Blanch the asparagus in salted boiling water for 2 minutes. Remove and cool in iced water. Drain on kitchen paper. Melt the butter in a frying pan and sauté the asparagus for 2 minutes. Keep it warm while you cook the fish.
SOCIAL SUPPERS
Season the halibut fillets with salt and pepper. Heat a frying pan with the olive oil over a high heat until it is hot, then add the fillets to the pan, skin side down. Fry for about 1–2 minutes until golden brown and crisp, then carefully flip the fillets over to cook the flesh side for 2 minutes or until cooked through. Transfer to warmed serving plates and serve with the shrimp and potatoes and sautéed asparagus.
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MAIN COURSES
Chargrilled Rib-eye Steaks with Chimichurri Sauce 134
I just love the honesty of a simple grilled steak, served with a no-fuss Argentinian chimichurri sauce. The success of this dish lies in the quality of the meat, so be sure to get a really good rib-eye steak from your butcher and don’t forget to let the meat rest after grilling. Serve with chunky chips or a watercress and tomato salad.
Serves 4 4 x thick rib-eye steaks (about 250g each) 250ml olive oil 2–3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped 1 green chilli, trimmed and finely sliced sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 quantity of Chunky Chips (see page 228), to serve For the chimichurri sauce 125g shallots (about 6), peeled and finely chopped 5 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar 1 tablespoon Tabasco sauce, or to taste ½ tablespoon wasabi paste, or to taste a pinch of caster sugar, to taste 2 jalapeño peppers, finely chopped 60g flat-leaf parsley, leaves only, finely chopped small bunch of chives, finely chopped small handful of thyme, leaves only
Put the steaks into a wide, non-metallic bowl, and marinate with the olive oil, garlic and chilli. Cover the bowl with cling film and chill for at least 30 minutes, preferably overnight. Remove the steaks from the refrigerator at least 15 minutes before cooking so that they can come to room temperature. Make the chimichurri sauce shortly before serving, as the herbs will discolour with time. Place the shallot in a sieve and rinse with cold running water (this will help to remove the harsh flavour). Drain and pat dry with kitchen paper. Transfer to a bowl and mix with all the remaining ingredients. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Preheat a charcoal grill; or, if cooking indoors, heat a griddle pan until hot. Scrape off the excess oil, garlic and chilli from the steaks and season with salt and pepper on both sides. Sear the steaks for 2–3 minutes on each side, depending on thickness, until browned and medium-rare (they will continue cooking as they rest). If your griddle pan is not wide enough, cook the steaks in batches to avoid overcrowding the pan. Leave the steaks to rest in a warm place for 8–10 minutes. Slice the steaks on the diagonal and serve on warm plates with the chimichurri sauce and chips.
Social Suppers
135
MAIN COURSES
SIMPLE ROAST LEG OF LAMB WITH ROSEMARY RUB AND POTATO DAUPHINOIS 148
This is an impressive way to present a Sunday roast, particularly if you are offering a generous leg of lamb. It is an honest dish with little pretension – just lovely spring lamb served with broccoli, beans and potatoes. Whether at home or in the restaurants, we never waste the broccoli stalks. Trim off the hard woody skins around the base and you’ll end up with a lovely, sweet and crunchy core. For the picture, I’ve chilled, sliced, reheated and presented the potato dauphinois in a fun and modern way, but you could simply bring it to the table in its gratin dish.
SERVES 6–8 1 leg of lamb, bone in, about 2 kg 3 garlic cloves, peeled 1 tablespoon sea salt 4 sprigs of rosemary, leaves only, finely chopped olive oil, to drizzle 6 carrots, peeled 1 head of broccoli, broken into florets, stalk reserved 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 tablespoons butter sea salt and freshly ground black pepper For the potato dauphinois 1.2kg baking potatoes 3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely crushed a pinch of grated nutmeg about 500ml double cream
For the potato dauphinois, preheat the oven to 160°C/Gas Mark 3. Peel the potatoes and put them into a bowl of water to prevent them from getting brown. Thinly slice the potatoes using a mandolin or very sharp knife and place in another large bowl. Add the crushed garlic and season well with grated nutmeg, salt and pepper. Pour two-thirds of the cream over the potatoes and mix well. Layer the potatoes into a gratin dish and pour over the rest of the cream. Press down the potatoes with a fork or spatula, so the cream reaches the top layer of potatoes. If necessary, top up with more cream. Bake the potatoes for 1 hour, until tender and golden brown on top. Remove from the oven and set aside, lightly covered with foil. Increase the oven temperature to 200°C/ Gas Mark 6. Place the leg of lamb on a large baking tray. Use a pestle and mortar to crush the garlic cloves and salt to a fine paste. Stir in the chopped rosemary and a splash of olive oil then rub the paste all over the lamb. Pop the tray into the oven and roast for about 1 hour for medium-rare meat. (Roast for another 15 minutes if you prefer the lamb well done.) Remove the lamb from the oven, loosely cover with foil and leave to rest for 15–20 minutes. Lower the oven temperature to 180ºC/ Gas Mark 4. While the lamb is resting, pop the potato dauphinois into the oven for 10–15 minutes to reheat. Place the carrots in a pan of boiling salted water and boil until tender, about 15 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to a bowl of iced water to cool, then drain on kitchen paper. Add the broccoli stalk to the water and blanch for 1 minute, then add the
SOCIAL SUPPERS
florets and blanch for a further minute. Cool in iced water and drain. Heat the olive oil and butter in a pan, then add the carrots and broccoli stalk and cook for 3–4 minutes or until everything begins to brown all over, then add the florets to the pan, and cook for a further 2 minutes. Season well to taste. Carve the lamb at the table and serve with the vegetables and potato dauphinois.
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Roast Duck Breast with Mini Roast Potatoes, Turnips, Beetroot and Carrot Purée 162
This is a lovely autumnal dish featuring a mixture of humble but delicious root vegetables, all of which have a nutty, earthy sweetness that goes beautifully with the duck breasts.
Serves 4 4 duck breasts sea salt and freshly ground black pepper For the potatoes and vegetables 3 tablespoons duck or goose fat 2 small garlic cloves, peeled and finely crushed 4 sprigs of thyme, leaves only 1 teaspoon sea salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 12–16 mini potatoes, rinsed 4 small golden beetroot 4 carrots, peeled and thinly sliced 8 baby turnips 200ml Duck Jus (page 220) 2 tablespoons olive oil
First, roast the potatoes. Preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas Mark 6. Melt the duck fat in a saucepan, then add the garlic, thyme, salt and pepper. Take the pan off the heat. Place the potatoes in a roasting tray, pour over the duck fat mixture and toss to coat. Roast the potatoes in the hot oven for about 45–60 minutes, until they are golden brown and cooked through. Roast the golden beetroot on a baking tray in the same oven, for around 25 minutes or until soft. Remove and allow to cool before removing the skin. Cut each beetroot into 4 or 5 pieces and set aside. Next, make a carrot purée. Put the carrots into a pan and pour in enough cold water to cover. Add a generous pinch of salt to the pan then bring the water to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer the carrots for about 15–20 minutes until they are soft. Drain the carrots, reserving a little of the cooking water, and tip them into a food processor. Blend to a smooth purée, adding a tiny splash of cooking water if necessary. Pass the purée through a fine sieve into a bowl. Cover with cling film and refrigerate if making in advance. Wash the turnips well and place in boiling salted water for 10 minutes or until soft. Drain and set aside until needed. Lower the oven temperature to 190°C/ Gas Mark 5. Score the skin of the duck breasts then season well with salt and pepper. Put the breasts, skin side down, in a cold ovenproof pan then place the pan over a very low heat. Gently cook the breasts for about 8 minutes until the fat beneath the skins has been rendered
Social Suppers
and the skins are golden brown and crisp. Flip the duck breasts over to cook the flesh side for about 2 minutes until golden brown. Place the pan into the hot oven to finish off cooking. Roast for about 3–4 minutes until the breasts are cooked to medium-rare. They should feel slightly springy when pressed. Remove the pan from the oven and rest the breasts for 4–5 minutes. Heat the duck jus in a small pan. Reheat both the turnips and the beetroot in separate pans with a little olive oil. Gently reheat the carrot purée in a small pan. Slice the duck breasts. Place spoonfuls of carrot purée on plates and top with duck slices. Arrange the roast potatoes, beetroot and turnips around them and spoon over the duck jus.
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MAIN COURSES
Chocolate Mousse, Blood Orange Jelly and Chocolate Crumbs 186
This is one for chocoholics and it is my way of adding the flavour of a hot chocolate drink to a mousse. Together with the blood orange jelly and crunchy chocolate crumbs, it is a truly satisfying way to end a meal.
Serves 4 200g dark chocolate (at least 65 per cent cocoa solids), roughly chopped 150ml double cream 5 large egg whites For the chocolate crumbs 50g caster sugar 60g ground almonds 40g plain flour 25g cocoa powder Âź teaspoon sea salt 30g softened unsalted butter For the blood orange jelly 250ml blood orange juice 2 sheets of leaf gelatine
Place the dark chocolate in a large bowl. Heat the cream in a small saucepan until it begins to scald. Take the pan off the heat and pour the hot cream over the chopped chocolate. Stir until the chocolate has completely melted and the mixture is smooth. Set aside to cool. Whisk the egg whites to medium peaks (the whites will be fairly stiff but the tops of the peaks will be curling over), then fold this through the cooled chocolate mixture. Spoon into individual serving glasses then chill the glasses until ready to serve. To make the blood orange jelly, gently heat the blood orange juice in a small saucepan until it is almost simmering. Meanwhile, soak the gelatine leaves in cold water for a few minutes to soften. Drain the gelatine and squeeze out the excess water. Add to the orange juice and take the pan off the heat. Stir to dissolve then strain the juice through a sieve into a small rigid plastic container. Leave to cool completely then cover and refrigerate until set. For the chocolate crumbs, preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas Mark 6. Place all the ingredients into a food processor and blitz until you have a coarse crumble texture. Line a baking tray with baking parchment and spread the crumble evenly over the tray. Bake for 10–12 minutes, stirring once or twice until the mixture is dry and crisp. Allow to cool completely then store in an airtight container until ready to serve.
Social Suppers
When ready to serve, sprinkle a layer of chocolate crumbs over each chocolate mousse and gently drop 1 or 2 spoonfuls of blood orange jelly on top. Serve immediately.
187
DESSERTS
Creamed Ricotta and Strawberry Pepper Compote on Thyme Sourdough Toasts 189
I first had a combination of strawberries, ricotta and thyme as a savoury crostini in a Shanghai restaurant opened by Jean-Georges Vongerichten. It was a fantastic starter but I was convinced that it would make an equally beautiful summery dessert.
Serves 4 For the strawberry pepper compote 250g caster sugar juice of ½ lemon 250g strawberries, hulled and halved ¼ teaspoon cracked black pepper For the creamed ricotta 250g ricotta 2 tablespoons double cream For the thyme sourdough olive oil a few sprigs of thyme, leaves stripped 4 thick slices of sourdough sea salt To serve 200g fresh strawberries, hulled and sliced 2–3 tablespoons Stock Syrup (see page 231)
To make the compote, put the sugar and lemon juice into a pan and place over a medium–high heat. Give it a stir and continue to heat until the sugar has dissolved. Add the strawberries and pepper and simmer for 5 minutes until the strawberries are soft but still holding their shape. Take the pan off the heat. Skim the scum from the surface of the compote then leave to cool completely in the pan. For the creamed ricotta, in a bowl whisk together the ricotta and the cream until combined. For the thyme sourdough, heat a thin layer of olive oil in a wide frying pan over a medium–low heat then add the thyme. After 30–60 seconds, when the thyme has imparted a lovely fragrance, add the sourdough slices to the pan. Increase the heat to medium–high and toast the bread for about 1½–2 minutes on each side, until golden brown. Remove from the pan and sprinkle with a little sea salt. To serve, spread the toasts with the creamed ricotta then spoon over some strawberry compote. Toss the sliced strawberries with a little stock syrup then use to garnish each slice of toast. Serve immediately.
DESSERTs
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 239
I would like to thank Jon Croft for creating my first ever Social Book and having the faith in me to deliver a great product. I would like to thank Meg Avent for persevering with me and for always giving me a nudge to hurry up (I’m always notoriously late). Art director and designer Matt Inwood, for a beautiful book, for always being really humorous on location when we were shooting and generally for just being a good support. Alice Gibbs, for her constant perseverance and for her endless patience. Without Alice none of this would have happened. She’s the one who pulled all of this together and made it all work and she’s been an absolute dream to work with – thank you, Alice.
Thank you to all my chefs abroad. In Singapore, to Colin Buchan at Pollen and to Andrew Walsh at Esquina and Keong Saik Snacks. In Hong Kong, to Chris Whitmore, Andres Lara and Nathan Green of 22 Ships and Ham & Sherry; and in Shanghai to Scott Melvin and Kim Lyle at Table 1 and The Commune Social. Thank you for your inspiration and for helping me to pull all of these recipes together and for making my working life such a dream.
Thank you to Imogen Fortes, for being the editor and making all this into beautiful text and for overseeing the project. John Carey, who does all of my photography for the restaurants and for the websites and now for the book: I am inspired by your photography and creativity every time we work together. I would like to thank Emily Quah and Nicole Herft for doing all of the recipe testing and making it all come together at such speed: without you guys it wouldn’t have been possible. Props stylist Jo Harris, for framing the food to look even better than it already is. Zoe Ross, for her diligent proofing of the book. To Kathi Grilz, for helping with the actual writing of the recipes. Thank you to my executive team: Irha Atherton, Michael West, Sarah Hutchins and Anne-Marie Kinane for getting this project off the ground and for keeping everything running smoothly. I would also like to say a massive thank you to Cary Docherty and Dominique Park for helping me to do the photo shoots, for always making sure the preparation was done immaculately and for helping me deliver a great book: your support was invaluable. Thank you to the chefs from all my London restaurants. To Paul Hood at Social Eating House – thanks mate for all your support and for sending the food over for the shoots. To Phil Carmichael, for helping with the produce and for delivering such a great restaurant at Berners Tavern. To Ross Bryans, Alex Craciun, Paul Walsh and all the team at Pollen Street Social for holding the fort for me and allowing me the time to go off and shoot this book.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
First published in Great Britain in 2014 by Absolute Press, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc Absolute Press Scarborough House 29 James Street West Bath BA1 2BT Phone 44 (0) 1225 316013 Fax 44 (0) 1225 445836 E-mail office@absolutepress.co.uk Website www.absolutepress.co.uk Text copyright © Jason Atherton, 2014 Photography copyright © John Carey, 2014 Publisher Jon Croft Commissioning Editor Meg Avent Art Director and Designer Matt Inwood Project Editor Alice Gibbs Editor Imogen Fortes Photographer John Carey Home Economy and Recipe Testing Emily Quah and Nicole Herft Props Stylist Jo Harris Indexer Zoe Ross The rights of Jason Atherton to be identified as the author of this work have been asserted by him in accordance with the Copyright Designs and Patents Act 1988. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or otherwise, without the prior permission of Absolute Press. A catalogue record of this book is available from the British Library ISBN: 9781472904249 Printed in China by C&C Offset
A note about the text This book was set using Baskerville, a serif typeface designed in 1757 by John Baskerville (1706–1775) in Birmingham, England. It is classified as a ‘transitional’ typeface, in appearance bridging the gap between the old-style faces of William Caslon and the modern styles of Giambattista Bodoni and Firmin Didot.
Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square, London WC1B 3DP www.bloomsbury.com Bloomsbury is a trademark of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc
Cook’s notes • All spoon measures are level unless otherwise stated: 1 teaspoon = 5ml spoon; 1 tablespoon = 15ml spoon. • All herbs are fresh and all pepper is freshly ground black pepper unless otherwise suggested. • Egg sizes are specified where they are critical, otherwise use large organic or free-range eggs. • If you are pregnant or in a vulnerable health group, avoid those recipes that contain raw egg whites or lightly cooked eggs. • Oven timings are for fan-assisted ovens. If you are using a conventional oven, increase the temperature by 15°C (1 gas mark). Individual ovens can deviate by as much as 10°C from the setting, either way. Get to know your oven and use an oven thermometer to check its accuracy. • Timings are provided as guidelines, with a description of colour or texture where appropriate, but the reader should rely on their own judgement as to when a dish is properly cooked.