The Square by Bloomsbury Pty Ltd

To Jen, Millie and Ali, and Greg, who I miss.

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To Jen, Millie and Ali, and Greg, who I miss.

T T

H H

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A B

R O

1 :

E K

First published in Great Britain in 2012 by Absolute Press, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc Absolute Press Scarborough House 29 James Street West Bath BA1 2BT Phone 44 (0) 1225 316013 Fax 44 (0) 1225 445836 E-mail info@absolutepress.co.uk Website www.absolutepress.co.uk

The rights of Philip Howard to be identified as the author of this work have been asserted by him in accordance with the Copyright Designs and Patents Act 1988. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or otherwise, without the prior permission of Absolute Press.

A catalogue record of this book is available from the British Library

Publisher Jon Croft Commissioning Editor Meg Avent Art Director Matt Inwood Photographer Jean Cazals Editor Jane Middleton Indexer Ann Parry Proofreader Lucy Bridgers

Printed in China by South China Printing Company, Dongguan, Guangdong

Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square, London WC1B 3DP www.bloomsbury.com

6 INTRODUCTION

20 BASICS 40 AMUSE-BOUCHES 62 SOUPS AND CONSOMMÉS 104 SALADS 148 FROM THE COLD LARDER

ISBN: 9781906650599

190 FROM THE HOT LARDER 2 1 4 PA S TA 252 RISOTTO

A note about the text This book is set in Minion and Helvetica Neue. Minion was created by Robert Slimbach, inspired by fonts of the late Renaissance. Helvetica was designed in 1957 by Max Miedinger of the Swiss-based Haas foundry. In the early 1980s, Linotype redrew the entire Helvetica family. The result was Helvetica Neue.

276 SHELLFISH 318 FISH 4 0 2 M E AT 464 GAME 516 SUPPLIERS

518 INDEX

526 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

A catalogue record of this book is available from the British Library

Publisher Jon Croft Commissioning Editor Meg Avent Art Director Matt Inwood Photographer Jean Cazals Editor Jane Middleton Indexer Ann Parry Proofreader Lucy Bridgers

Printed in China by South China Printing Company, Dongguan, Guangdong

Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square, London WC1B 3DP www.bloomsbury.com

6 INTRODUCTION

20 BASICS 40 AMUSE-BOUCHES 62 SOUPS AND CONSOMMÉS 104 SALADS 148 FROM THE COLD LARDER

ISBN: 9781906650599

190 FROM THE HOT LARDER 2 1 4 PA S TA 252 RISOTTO

276 SHELLFISH 318 FISH 4 0 2 M E AT 464 GAME 516 SUPPLIERS

518 INDEX

526 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Amuse-bouches

ese small ‘gis from the chef ’ are contentious little dishes, but the evolution of fine dining has brought them to our tables. If delivered swily and without pomp, they are simply an additional treat and need no more debate. eir purpose can be confused: some see them as a palate cleanser, preparing the diner’s system for what lies ahead; some simply as a light opening course to set the tone. For me, they are an important part of the meal. It is the opening set from the kitchen and, whilst an amuse-bouche should be petite, it should also make a big impact. Anyone who has chosen to walk through the front door of e Square has, in doing so, made a clear statement about the enthusiasm with which they approach their eating, and in my book this opener should deliver flavour through refined and sensuous means. Over the years we have served a multitude of diﬀerent dishes, but the format that has served us best, and in my opinion ticks all the boxes, is the one demonstrated by the four seasonal variations in this chapter. A delicate mousse is topped with a jelly (or purée) and then a foam. e flavours are always harmonious and classical, but delivering them in this way gives rise to a sensuous launch into the world of subtle, refined flavours and textures. ese little assemblies are served with a crisp garnish on the side to provide an appropriately flavoured, but texturally contrasting backdrop.

Amuse-bouches

CEP BAVAROIS, ROAST CHICKEN JELLY, THYME FOAM AND ONION TART

SERVES 20

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Roast chicken with ceps, thyme and onions is about as harmonious a gathering of flavours as possible. e four go so well together. It is a faultless, complete and unquestionable combination and here, presented in e Square’s standard amusebouche format of bavarois, jelly, foam and crisp garnish, it provides a small, rich and sensuous kick-oﬀ to an autumn meal.

e ceps are lightly sweated, covered and cooked with cream, then blended to a smooth purée. is is set with gelatine, aerated and enriched with whipped cream, and set in shot glasses. e bavarois is topped with a naturally set roast chicken consommé and finished with a fragrant thyme foam, made by infusing cream with onions and thyme and dispensing it through a foam gun (see page 19). e glass is served with a slice of a crisp, puﬀ-pastry-based onion tart.

Use fresh ceps. Frozen or dried are simply not the same and bring a mustiness to the dish that is vastly inferior to the flavour of a fresh cep.

Roast chicken jelly Cep bavarois yme foam Onion tart

Cold, set consommé can have a rather muted flavour, but accurate seasoning will resolve this. Taste the stock carefully before it sets, remembering that it will be served cold and can therefore take full seasoning. Try to source woody rather than so thyme, as it has the most intense aroma. Generous quantities infused briefly give better results than stewing smaller quantities for longer.

tImINg Most of this dish can be started a day in advance, and certainly the jelly must be. Make the roast chicken stock the day before and clarify it then too, if desired. e cep bavarois, thyme foam base and caramelised onions for the tart can all be done the day before. All that is then le on the day, a couple of hours before serving, is to set the mousse and jelly in the glass, warm up the foam and bake the onion tart.

Go to the lengths of turning and baking the tart on the second side. is will ensure you achieve a slim, crisp finish.

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CEP BAVAROIS, ROAST CHICKEN JELLY, THYME FOAM AND ONION TART

SERVES 20

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Use fresh ceps. Frozen or dried are simply not the same and bring a mustiness to the dish that is vastly inferior to the flavour of a fresh cep.

Roast chicken jelly Cep bavarois yme foam Onion tart

Go to the lengths of turning and baking the tart on the second side. is will ensure you achieve a slim, crisp finish.

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WIlD DuCk

4 mallards, weighing 700–750g each 200g rock salt ½ teaspoon peppercorns, crushed 1 garlic clove, finely sliced 2 sprigs of thyme, chopped 500g duck fat, melted

Remove the legs from the mallards. Mix the salt, peppercorns, garlic and thyme together and sprinkle a quarter over the base of a small dish. Press both sides of the legs into the remaining salt mixture and place in the dish. Sprinkle any leover mixture over the top and leave for 3 hours.

4 small parsnips 8 small carrots 4 small parsley roots 3 tablespoons duck fat a dusting of icing sugar 4 small red onions 25ml grapeseed oil 1 teaspoon sherry vinegar

Rinse the salt mixture off the legs and leave to soak under running water for 15 minutes. Drain and pat dry. Place in a small casserole, cover with the duck fat and bring to a simmer. Cover the pan, transfer to an oven preheated to 110°C/Gas Mark ¼ and cook for 1½ hours. Remove the pan from the oven, li the legs out and gently press the meat; it should come away from the bone. If not, replace in the oven and keep cooking until it does, checking every 10 minutes or so. Once cooked, leave the duck legs to cool in the fat. Remove them, li off the skin, flake the meat off the bone and set aside on kitchen paper.

DrESSINg

CArAmElISED vEgEtABlES

1 tablespoon currants, soaked in 3 tablespoons port for 24 hours zest of ¼ orange 1 tablespoon grapeseed oil 1 teaspoon sherry vinegar 1 tablespoon elderberries

Peel the parsnips, carrots and parsley roots, trim oﬀ the top and bottom, cut them all in half lengthways and then in half lengthways again. Now cut the tough core out. Cut the vegetable pieces in half lengthways once more. Keep the vegetables separate.

CArAmElISED vEgEtABlES

othEr INgrEDIENtS 100g trompettes de la mort mushrooms, trimmed 1 beetroot, peeled 1/8 celeriac, peeled 1 litre vegetable oil, for deep-frying 1 tablespoon hazelnut oil 200g foie gras, cut into 8 slices 300g mixed autumnal baby leaves, such as ruby chard and beetroot

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Take 3 ovenproof frying pans that will accommodate each type of vegetable in a single layer and place over a high heat. Add a tablespoon of duck fat to each pan, then add the vegetables, one type in each. Season with salt and pepper and cook over a medium heat for 2–3 minutes, until they just start to colour. Transfer, still in their pans, to an oven preheated to 170°C/Gas Mark 3 and cook, stirring frequently, for 15 minutes. e vegetables should be golden and chewy. Remove from the oven, dust with a single coating of icing sugar through a sieve, then return to the oven for 5 minutes. Remove from the oven again and leave to rest for 5 minutes. Drain in a colander and set aside on kitchen paper at room temperature.

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Peel the red onions without damaging the underlying layers, then cut them into slices 3mm thick. Place a pan large enough to hold the slices in one layer over a high heat for 2 minutes. Add the grapeseed oil, sprinkle the pan with a generous pinch of salt and add the onions, ensuring the slices stay intact. Turn up the heat and fry the onions for 3–4 minutes, until almost blackened. Turn them carefully, trying to keep them intact, and colour the second side. Drain in a colander, then add the sherry vinegar. Run a fork through the onions to loosen all the rings and set aside on kitchen paper. DrESSINg Warm through the port-soaked currants, then take 1 tablespoon of the port and put it in a bowl with the orange zest, grapeseed oil and sherry vinegar. Whisk vigorously and season with salt and pepper. Add the currants and elderberries and set aside at room temperature. to FINISh Wash the trompettes in a generous quantity of cold water, dry in a salad spinner and leave them on a kitchen cloth for 20 minutes. Using a slicer or a mandoline, slice the beetroot and celeriac as thinly as possible. Heat the vegetable oil to 160°C in a deep-fat fryer or a deep pan. Spread the vegetables out on a kitchen cloth, place another cloth on top and press down firmly to remove excess moisture. Now, a few slices at a time, place the beetroot in the oil and deep-fry until no moisture is le, at which point the sizzling will stop. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain thoroughly on kitchen paper. Repeat with the celeriac.

to SErvE An hour before serving, cook the mallard breasts, still on the carcass: season the skin, then lightly brown the birds in a frying pan in 1 tablespoon of the duck fat. Transfer to a roasting tray and cook for 8–12 minutes in an oven preheated to 170°C/Gas Mark 3. Wild birds vary in fat content and size, so cooking times will vary also, but a 575g mallard crown should take approximately 10 minutes to cook medium rare. Remove from the oven and allow to rest, reserving any juices. Whisk a tablespoon of the juices from cooking the duck into the dressing. Remove the mallard breasts from the bone, season the flesh side with salt and pepper and carve into long, thin strips. Place the roasted root vegetables, onions and the duck breast and leg meat in a large bowl, add 2 tablespoons of the dressing and toss. Place the bowl in an oven preheated to 110°C/Gas Mark ¼ for 5 minutes. Remove and mix thoroughly again. At the last moment, heat a large, heavy-based pan over a high heat for 2 minutes. Season the slices of foie gras and fry for 30 seconds on each side. ey should feel so in the centre when cooked. Remove immediately from the pan and set aside on kitchen paper. Place the salad leaves in a large bowl and dress with ½ tablespoon of the dressing. Place three-quarters of the leaves in the centre of 8 plates, divide the duck mix between them and tease it out over the leaves, ensuring that it looks attractive. Tuck the remaining leaves here and there over the top of the salad. Garnish with the trompettes de la mort and the foie gras, then finish with the deep-fried vegetables and a drizzle of the remaining vinaigrette.

Heat a small frying pan over a medium heat and add the hazelnut oil, followed by the mushrooms. Season with salt and pepper and sauté for 1 minute. Drain and set aside on kitchen paper.

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mEthoD

WIlD DuCk

4 mallards, weighing 700–750g each 200g rock salt ½ teaspoon peppercorns, crushed 1 garlic clove, finely sliced 2 sprigs of thyme, chopped 500g duck fat, melted

4 small parsnips 8 small carrots 4 small parsley roots 3 tablespoons duck fat a dusting of icing sugar 4 small red onions 25ml grapeseed oil 1 teaspoon sherry vinegar

DrESSINg

CArAmElISED vEgEtABlES

1 tablespoon currants, soaked in 3 tablespoons port for 24 hours zest of ¼ orange 1 tablespoon grapeseed oil 1 teaspoon sherry vinegar 1 tablespoon elderberries

CArAmElISED vEgEtABlES

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Heat a small frying pan over a medium heat and add the hazelnut oil, followed by the mushrooms. Season with salt and pepper and sauté for 1 minute. Drain and set aside on kitchen paper.

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SALAD OF SKATE, SWISS CHARD, SALSIFY AND SPROUTING BROCCOLI WITH CLAM BEIGNETS AND A RED WINE, ANCHOVY AND GARLIC DRESSING SERVES 8

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In the depths of winter, salads are not often what we want to eat and, to make matters worse, there is a shortage of seasonal ingredients to work with. This is an assembly of delicate flavours and textures, all acting as a vehicle for a powerful and delicious dressing.

e skate wing is steamed and the unique strands of flesh lied oﬀ the bone. e vegetables are cooked until tender and the two are served warm with an emulsified dressing made from red wine, anchovies and garlic. e dish is garnished with a clam mayonnaise, clam beignets and baby ruby chard leaves.

Skate can be very disappointing. Buy the freshest of wings, skinned on both sides.

Red wine, anchovy and garlic dressing Clam mayonnaise Vegetables Beer batter Skate

Source young, fresh vegetables – chard with bright green tops, firm salsify and crisp green sprouting broccoli. Small palourdes are the right clams for this dish. ey yield a fantastic-flavoured cooking liquor for the mayonnaise and are tender when deep-fried. e dressing requires judgement. Follow the recipe but taste it carefully to ensure it is balanced.

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SAlADS

tImINg As with all salads, vitality is the key. Everything but the clam mayonnaise must be done within 2 hours of serving to avoid having to store anything in the fridge. e only last-minute tasks, however, are cooking the skate and deep-frying the clam beignets.

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SALAD OF SKATE, SWISS CHARD, SALSIFY AND SPROUTING BROCCOLI WITH CLAM BEIGNETS AND A RED WINE, ANCHOVY AND GARLIC DRESSING SERVES 8

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Skate can be very disappointing. Buy the freshest of wings, skinned on both sides.

Red wine, anchovy and garlic dressing Clam mayonnaise Vegetables Beer batter Skate

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INgrEDIENtS

othEr INgrEDIENtS

ClAm mAyoNNAISE

1 litre vegetable oil, for deep-frying 1 punnet of baby ruby chard leaves, any tough stems removed ½ tablespoon extra virgin olive oil a squeeze of lemon juice

80 palourde clams (about 3kg) 100ml dry white wine 1 egg yolk 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard juice of ½ lemon 225ml grapeseed oil

thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Transfer to a bowl and set aside, covered, in a warm place.

Whisk the flour into 100ml cold water until smooth. Place a large pan of well-salted water over a high heat. Add the flour mix, whisk to incorporate and bring to the boil. is ‘blanc’ will keep the salsify and chard white while they cook.

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rED WINE, ANChovy AND gArlIC DrESSINg

ClAm mAyoNNAISE

185ml Barolo or similar red wine 5 garlic cloves, cut in half and any green sprout removed 5 anchovies ½ bay leaf 25ml extra virgin olive oil 25ml oil from the anchovies 50g unsalted butter, at room temperature

Place a large, heavy-based pan over a high heat and leave for 1 minute. Add the clams, followed by the white wine, and cover with a lid. Cook for 2–3 minutes, until all the clams have opened. Remove from the heat and drain through a colander, reserving the cooking liquor. Once cool enough to handle, pick the clams out of the shell and set aside, covered, in the fridge.

vEgEtABlES 1 tablespoon plain flour 2 large stalks of Swiss chard 4 x 20cm pieces of salsify juice of 1 lemon 16 slim heads of sprouting broccoli 4 celery sticks 8 Ratte potatoes BEEr BAttEr 330ml beer 250g plain flour 12g fresh yeast a pinch of sugar thE SkAtE 4 x 300g skate wings, skinned on both sides – ask your fishmonger to trim the cartilaginous bone running around the top and two sides of the wings. 132

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Pass the clam cooking liquor through a fine sieve into a pan. Boil until reduced to 50ml, then transfer to a blender and allow to cool for 5 minutes. Add the egg yolk, mustard, lemon juice, a pinch of salt and several twists of a pepper mill. Blend briefly to homogenise. With the blender on, add the grapeseed oil in a slow, steady stream to give a rich clam mayonnaise. Check and adjust the seasoning, then transfer to a squeezy bottle or a bowl and set aside in the fridge. rED WINE, ANChovy AND gArlIC DrESSINg Place the red wine, garlic, anchovies and bay leaf in a heavy-based pan and place over a medium heat. Bring to the boil, then turn down the heat and simmer until the red wine has reduced to the level of the garlic. Add the olive oil and the oil from the anchovies, return to the boil, then remove from the heat and leave to stand for 10 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a blender and blend to a rich, velvety purée. Add the butter and blend for a minute longer to ensure it is completely emulsified. Taste the dressing. Whilst it should taste heavily of red wine, it should be in balance with the anchovies, garlic, olive oil and butter. If it lacks clout, either add a raw anchovy or two or reduce some more red wine and add that. e final dressing should have immense flavour and should be thE CookBook

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Snap the top of the Swiss chard – i.e. the green, leafy part and the narrower part of the stalk – and draw it away, removing any strings with it. Snap the other end off, drawing it similarly down the other side. Cut the chard into 10cm lengths and cook in the boiling blanc until just tender – this will vary according to thickness but may take 4–5 minutes. Remove from the blanc with a slotted spoon, refresh in iced water for 10 seconds, then drain and set aside, covered, on kitchen paper at room temperature. Peel the salsify and place immediately in a bowl of water with the lemon juice added. Cut each salsify piece in half. Transfer to the boiling blanc, turn down the heat and cook gently until just tender. e time for this will also depend on the thickness of the salsify. Drain, refresh in iced water for 30 seconds and set aside as for the chard. Trim any leaves off the stems of the broccoli. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil, add the broccoli and cook until just tender. Remove and refresh in iced water for 1 minute, then set aside as above. Top and tail the celery sticks and peel – ensuring you don't remove too much of the stem. Cut them into 10cm lengths and cut each length in half down the middle. Blanch for 30 seconds, refresh in iced water for 15 seconds and set aside with the other vegetables. Place the potatoes in a pan, cover with water, season with salt and bring to the boil. Turn the heat down and cook at a bare simmer until just tender. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool in the cooking water. With a paring knife, li the skins off the potatoes, top and tail them, then return them to the water and set aside at room temperature.

BEEr BAttEr Whisk 100ml of the beer into the flour until smooth. Crumble in the yeast and whisk again until smooth. Gradually whisk in the remaining beer. Add the sugar and a pinch of salt and set aside, covered, in a warm place for 30 minutes. to SErvE Season the skate with salt and cook in a steamer (or poach just below boiling point in a large pan of salted water) for 8 minutes. Remove from the steamer and use a palette knife to scrape oﬀ the gelatinous membrane by gently scraping from the thick to the thin side of the wing. Similarly, but scraping in the opposite direction, remove any dark surface meat from each wing. Now, with a carving knife, remove the meat from both sides of the wing by cutting horizontally from the thin side to the thick. Transfer the skate to a tray and cover with cling film. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Drop the Swiss chard in for 5 seconds, then remove and transfer to a bowl. Add 1 tablespoon of the red wine dressing and toss gently. Repeat this for the salsify and celery. Warm the potatoes through in their cooking water, drain and cut into slices 5mm thick. Transfer to a bowl and toss gently with 1 tablespoon of the dressing. Plunge the broccoli into the boiling water for 5 seconds, drain and set aside. Heat the oil to 200°C in a deep-fat fryer or a large, deep, heavybased pan. Add all the clams to the beer batter, li out again with a fork and deep-fry in batches until golden and crisp. Season with salt and set aside on kitchen paper. Lay out 8 plates and divide three-quarters of the vegetables between them. Teasing the skate into strands, arrange it over the vegetables. Finish with the remaining vegetables. Shake the bottle of clam mayonnaise to ensure it is fluid and squeeze little dots of this over the skate and around the salad. Dress the ruby chard leaves with the olive oil and lemon juice and place 10 or so leaves on each salad. Drizzle with a final bit of red wine dressing and garnish with the clam beignets.

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othEr INgrEDIENtS

ClAm mAyoNNAISE

1 litre vegetable oil, for deep-frying 1 punnet of baby ruby chard leaves, any tough stems removed ½ tablespoon extra virgin olive oil a squeeze of lemon juice

80 palourde clams (about 3kg) 100ml dry white wine 1 egg yolk 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard juice of ½ lemon 225ml grapeseed oil

thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Transfer to a bowl and set aside, covered, in a warm place.

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rED WINE, ANChovy AND gArlIC DrESSINg

ClAm mAyoNNAISE

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From the Cold Larder

A move on to the cold-larder section of the kitchen at e Square comes with more support from senior staff than any other. e fact of the matter is, it is more difficult to produce cold food full of character and flavour than hot. Heat breathes life into food and helps salt and seasonings to dissolve and disperse. Fridges are an indispensable piece of kitchen kit and clearly enable us to keep produce in immaculate condition. Fridge-cold food, however, is severely compromised in its flavour. On the cold larder, which deals with dishes whose primary components have been previously cooked, or which are simply served raw, it takes a skilled chef to assemble plates of food that sparkle and whose flavours sing loud and clear. A list of ingredients that actually benefit from being served cold would be woefully short. e rule, therefore, is to allow anything that has been in the fridge to come to room temperature before serving. However, there is an armoury of touches that can help bring cold food to life. A few grains of sea salt, a drop or two of vinegar, a drizzle of oil, herbs, chopped shallots, small quantities of mayonnaise all play a part in this arena and are instrumental in giving the lacklustre, muted flavours of cold food the kiss of life. Cooking and finishing food that is to be served cold requires particular care and attention to seasoning. As much as a few final grains of salt can help restore an ingredient, it will always fall short of its full potential if it was not seasoned sufficiently during cooking.

From the Cold Larder

TERRINE OF CHICKEN, FOIE GRAS AND GIROLLES WITH A LIVER CREAM AND GRILLED LEEKS

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SERVES 12

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ere is a spell of several weeks – perhaps longer some years – when Scottish girolles are young, small, plentiful and at their best. ey knock the socks oﬀ the ones from the Continent. is terrine uses lots of them, and the harmony of flavour between the chicken, girolles and tarragon and the enrichment with foie gras make for a fantastic, albeit labour-intensive, terrine.

Two small chickens are boned and used to line a terrine. A generous quantity of girolles is sautéed in duck fat, seasoned with tarragon and, once cooled and spiked with foie gras, used to fill the cavity. e excess chicken is folded over and the terrine cooked gently. A slice of this is served with a chicken liver cream and chargrilled baby leeks.

ere are only three main ingredients here but they must all be perfect. Use only good organic or free-range chickens. Do not compromise on the girolles – small, fresh, golden Scottish girolles are the only option. Fresh, sweet-smelling foie gras is important. It will be only gently cooked and any staleness will be amplified.

Terrine Chicken liver cream Chargrilled leeks

Making this terrine is tricky. Boning the birds will be time consuming for beginners but, with perseverance, is achievable.

From thE ColD lArDEr

tImINg e terrine must be cooked the day before, to give it time to set and mature. e chicken liver cream can be done well in advance, leaving only the leeks as a lastminute job.

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TERRINE OF CHICKEN, FOIE GRAS AND GIROLLES WITH A LIVER CREAM AND GRILLED LEEKS

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SERVES 12

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Terrine Chicken liver cream Chargrilled leeks

Making this terrine is tricky. Boning the birds will be time consuming for beginners but, with perseverance, is achievable.

From thE ColD lArDEr

tImINg e terrine must be cooked the day before, to give it time to set and mature. e chicken liver cream can be done well in advance, leaving only the leeks as a lastminute job.

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INgrEDIENtS tErrINE 2 x 900g organic or free-range chickens 1kg small, fresh Scottish girolle mushrooms 150g duck fat 30 tarragon leaves 1 lobe of top-grade fresh foie gras, weighing about 350g ChICkEN lIvEr CrEAm 100g chicken livers 250ml grapeseed oil 1 shallot, finely chopped 30ml Madeira wine 15ml port 1 teaspoon sherry vinegar 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 30g egg yolks othEr INgrEDIENtS 60 baby leeks, pencil-thickness 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon hazelnut oil

to the main carcass will hinder you. ‘Dislocate’ this joint by applying leverage at this point. Once the joint has separated, continue working with the knife between the ball and socket and around the carcass. Similarly, you will have to dislocate the wing joint. Once you have successfully worked most of your way round the carcass, you will hit the breastplate – a 2– 3cm flat bone running between the breasts, the ridge of which you feel when approaching a chicken from the normal way up. Cut the meat away from this, being careful not to cut through the skin as you near the end. At this stage, half the bird has been removed from the main body of the carcass but the leg and wing bones are still in. Turn the bird around and repeat the process on the second side. Once you have reached the end of the breastplate on the second side, all that is le to do is carefully cut the line of skin away from the cartilaginous ridge of the plate. is is best done using scissors. It is not the end of the world if you puncture the skin. Now lay the chicken out in front of you with the breasts away from you and the skin side down. Cut down the centre of each thigh and drumstick and, by working methodically, remove the bones from each leg. Chop the wings oﬀ half way down the first bone and similarly remove the stump of bone le by cutting away the meat. e chicken is now boneless and, by careful manoeuvring, it can be shaped into a neat, symmetrical square piece. To even out the thickness of the meat, use horizontal sweeping, slicing movements to cut oﬀ the thickest parts of the breast and thighs. Use this to fill any gaps. Lay the boneless bird on a piece of baking parchment and repeat the process for the second chicken. Set aside in the fridge.

mEthoD tErrINE Bone the chickens using the following method. Place a chicken on a chopping board in front of you, breast-side down. Cut cleanly through the skin down the back of the bird from one end to the other. e knowledge of a chicken’s anatomy helps here but, simply put, liing up the skin on one side and holding a boning knife in your other hand, you now need to cut away the meat from the bone in delicate movements. is is the general procedure, but almost immediately the ball and socket joint where the leg connects

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Trim the base of the stalks oﬀ the girolles and cut in half any that have caps more than 2.5cm in diameter. Wash by plunging them briefly into a sink full of cold water and agitating carefully. Li the mushrooms out with a sieve, spin dry in a salad spinner and then spread out on a kitchen cloth and leave to dry further for 1 hour. e key to cooking the girolles is to do it hard and fast. A large, heavy-based pan is required, and you should cook them in as many batches as necessary not to overcrowd the pan. Place the pan over a high heat and leave for 3–4 minutes.

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Add the duck fat, let it smoke briefly and then throw in the girolles, seasoning immediately with salt and pepper. ey will release a lot of moisture. Allow all this to boil away and, at the point where they start to fry again, tip them into a bowl. Repeat until all the mushrooms are cooked. Once they have cooled to room temperature, drain them and check the seasoning. e terrine will be served cold, so they must taste highly seasoned when warm. Add the tarragon leaves to the girolles and set aside at room temperature.

using the same pan but with a fresh tablespoon of oil, sweat the shallot with a generous pinch of salt until translucent. Return the livers and their juices to the pan, add the Madeira and port, and simmer until almost completely evaporated. Transfer the mixture to a blender, add the vinegar, mustard and egg yolks and blend to a smooth paste. Gradually add the remaining oil while the machine is running to create a rich, thick chicken liver mayonnaise. Pass through a fine sieve, adjust the seasoning if necessary and set aside in the fridge.

Split the foie gras into its 2 constituent lobes and cut into rough 1cm cubes. Season generously with salt and pepper and mix with the girolles. Set aside at room temperature.

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Place a 22cm x 8cm x 8cm terrine on the work surface and remove the chickens from the fridge. By carefully manhandling the birds in, line the terrine. It does not really matter how this happens but, in my experience, having one chicken at each end works best, with the middle of each chicken running lengthways along the centre of the base of the terrine, the breasts all meeting at the middle point. ere will be some overhang, which will be folded over at the end. Season the chicken generously and tip all the girolles and foie gras into the cavity, pressing down to ensure they are well compacted. Fold the excess chicken over neatly, trimming the meat oﬀ one side so that the covering layer is no thicker than that within the terrine. is can sometimes be a bit of a patchwork job. Now wrap the terrine tightly with a continuous covering of cling film 5 layers thick. Repeat this lengthways to make it completely airtight. Should you have a sous-vide machine, vacuum pack the terrine to maximum in a large sous-vide bag, but this is not critical. Submerge the terrine in a pan of water or a water bath set to 75°C and cook for 1¼ hours, keeping the temperature constant with the use of a sugar thermometer if necessary. Remove, plunge into iced water for 15 minutes, and then transfer to the fridge and leave overnight.

Trim the roots off the leeks, remove the outer layer, trim any dark green tops off and place in a large bowl of water for 15 minutes. Drain, dry on a kitchen cloth, then place in a large bowl. Drizzle with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Heat a chargrill pan or, failing that, a heavy-based frying pan, to maximum heat. Place the leeks on the grill until blackened underneath, then turn and colour the second side. Do this in batches if necessary. Transfer to a plate and set aside at room temperature. Unwrap the terrine and turn it out of its mould by gently tapping it on a hard surface. With a sharp knife, trim off the end and taste it for seasoning. If necessary, add a pinch of sea salt to the slices you serve. Cut 12 slices, lay them out on a chopping board, cover with cling film and leave to come to room temperature for 5 minutes. Remove the cling film, brush the terrine slices with hazelnut oil and transfer to large serving plates. Garnish with the grilled leeks and finish with dots of chicken liver cream.

ChICkEN lIvEr CrEAm Season the chicken livers and sauté for 2 minutes in a hot pan in a tablespoon of the grapeseed oil. Tip on to a plate and,

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Split the foie gras into its 2 constituent lobes and cut into rough 1cm cubes. Season generously with salt and pepper and mix with the girolles. Set aside at room temperature.

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ChICkEN lIvEr CrEAm Season the chicken livers and sauté for 2 minutes in a hot pan in a tablespoon of the grapeseed oil. Tip on to a plate and,

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RAVIOLI OF LOBSTER WITH MELON, LARDO DI COLONNATA AND A SHELLFISH BISQUE SERVES 8

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We make a lot of ravioli at e Square, simply because they deliver. Once the technique is mastered, they are quick to make, fantastic vehicles for flavour, oﬀer great consistency in service and, most importantly, are delicious to eat. is dish has complex flavours – primarily the sweetness of the shellfish and melon is paired with the earthiness of the lardo.

e ravioli itself is an assembly of lobster meat, scallop mousse and basil. It is served with an intense vinaigrette, based on a shellfish jus (a reduction of a fragrant shellfish stock), the finely diced lardo and the fat released when it was rendered. It is garnished with slivers of melon and an aerated shellfish bisque.

I never tire of pasta work but the enjoyment of it and the end result are utterly dependent on a well-made dough, with appropriate firmness for the job in hand. Spend 10 minutes, if necessary, getting the dough as it should be. Too wet and you will end up tearing your hair out; too dry and you will dislocate your knuckles trying to get the pasta to stick together.

Pasta dough Lobster mix Shellfish bisque Vinaigrette

Fresh shellfish is critical here. Lardo di colonnata is cured with herbs and is superior to a standard slab of lardo (pork fat). It is Italian, from the neck of the animal, and is quite simply the best.

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tImINg All these components can be made the day before but the pasta dough must be. e making of the ravioli needs to be as close to the serving time as practically possible. Minutes are not crucial here – a few hours beforehand is fine.

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Pasta dough Lobster mix Shellfish bisque Vinaigrette

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2 x 500g native lobsters (about 400g of cooked meat is required) 1 quantity of Scallop Mousse (see page 31) a squeeze of lemon juice 8 basil leaves, finely sliced 1 quantity of Medium Pasta Dough (see page 27)

Place the lobsters in the freezer for 1–2 hours to render them comatose. Bring a very large pan of salted water bring to the boil. Plunge the lobsters into the boiling water, turn the heat down and bring back to a bare simmer, cooking the lobsters for 10 minutes in total. Remove the lobsters and allow to cool to room temperature but don’t put them in the fridge.

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While they are cooling, make the scallop mousse.

50ml grapeseed oil the shells from the lobster, above 100g unsalted butter 2 shallots, finely sliced ½ carrot, finely sliced ½ celery stick, finely sliced ½ leek, finely sliced ½ teaspoon each of coriander seeds and fennel seeds 2 star anise ½ head of garlic 1 tablespoon tomato purée 200ml Madeira 3 slices of lemon ½ bunch of basil 200ml semi-skimmed milk

Remove the lobster meat from the shells as follows (keep the shells for the bisque): get a large chopping board and 3 medium bowls lined up in front of you. Pull the lobster tail from the head by gently twisting and pulling. Put the tail in bowl 1. Pull the claws and knuckles away from the head, then snap the claw away from the other 2 knuckles and place all these pieces in bowl 2. Pull all the legs oﬀ the head section and place in bowl 3. Now prise the upper head shell and lower section apart. Discard the lower section and place the upper shell in bowl 3. Keep clean, wiping away any watery juices as you work.

vINAIgrEttE 150g lardo di colonnata, finely diced a squeeze of lemon 100g Charentais or other ripe melon, finely diced othEr INgrEDIENtS 1 Charentais or other ripe melon

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Make the ravioli following the method on page 29. You will need to cut out 16 discs of pasta, 9cm in diameter, to make 8 ravioli, filling them with 100g lobster mix each. Complete the ravioli as described on page 29, blanching them for 2 minutes.

Now take a lobster tail, turn it on its side and press carefully but firmly down. e shell will crack, allowing you to prise the shell away and extract the tail meat in one plump piece. Put the shell in bowl 3. Put the tail meat into a clean bowl. Using the back of a cleaver, a heavy knife or lobster scissors, crack the claw and knuckle shells. Extract the meat, putting the meat and empty shells in the appropriate bowls. e claws themselves have a thin, plate-like shell within them. Gently push the crab-like claw meat away from this and pull this shell out. You should now have 2 bowls in use, one full of shells and the other containing meat. To make the lobster mix, cut the lobster tails in half, removing the dark intestinal tract. Roughly chop this meat, along with the knuckles, and season with the lemon juice. Add to the scallop mousse with the basil and mix gently to combine. Cut the claws horizontally in half and chill.

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ShEllFISh BISquE Heat a large, shallow, heavy-based casserole. Add the oil, followed by the lobster shells, and sauté for 2–3 minutes over a high heat. Add half the butter, followed by the vegetables, aromatics and garlic, and continue cooking for 5 minutes. Season with a generous pinch of salt, stir in the tomato purée and then transfer to an oven preheated to 200°C/Gas Mark 6. Cook for 5 minutes, then place back on the hob. Add the Madeira and simmer until it has completely evaporated. Add enough water just to cover, bring to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the lemon and basil and then cover and leave to rest for half an hour. Pass through a fine sieve, return to the heat and simmer until reduced to 200ml. is should be an intensely flavoured shellfish reduction. Remove 50ml for use in the vinaigrette. Place the remaining shellfish bisque in a saucepan and set aside.

Bring the bisque to the boil. Add the remaining 50g butter and the milk and heat to near-simmering point (about 80°C). Carefully aerate with a hand blender to check the consistency – it should form a creamy froth, which should hold for several minutes. It will not aerate if it is too cold, and will collapse if the mix has boiled – in which case, adjust the heat and reblend. Warm the vinaigrette through and add the diced melon. Reheat the ravioli in the pan of boiling salted water for 4 minutes. Meanwhile, lay out 8 preheated bowls and place a ruﬄed sheet of melon in each. Remove the ravioli from the water, drain them on a kitchen towel and place one in each bowl on the melon. Place half a lobster claw on each, then spoon over the vinaigrette, ensuring you get an even mix of fat, juice and dice. Finish by briefly re-blending the bisque and spooning some around each ravioli.

vINAIgrEttE Place the diced lardo in a pan and sweat over a medium heat in order to render the fat. Continue until the lardo just begins to colour, then remove from the heat and add the reserved 50ml shellfish reduction and a drop or two of lemon juice. Do not add the melon until you are about to serve the ravioli. othEr INgrEDIENtS Pare the skin away from the melon, keeping the melon whole. Slice it lengthwise into large, wafer-thin sheets, if you have a ham slicer. If not, cut the melon into pieces and then into long, wafer-thin strips. to SErvE Remove the lobster claws from the fridge. Bring a large pan of lightly salted water to the boil for the pasta.

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While they are cooling, make the scallop mousse.

vINAIgrEttE 150g lardo di colonnata, finely diced a squeeze of lemon 100g Charentais or other ripe melon, finely diced othEr INgrEDIENtS 1 Charentais or other ripe melon

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Meat

Meat is such an all-encompassing word that it is hard to know where to start when discussing it. Not only is there variety in terms of the animal but the repertoire of cooking techniques at our disposal these days is almost endless. We do have some phenomenal meat available in the UK but the truth is, the post-Second World War emphasis on yield has taken its toll. e selection and cross breeding of animals that generated quantity rather than quality brought an end to rationing and nourished the nation. A similar selection process was targeted at pork to try to produce leaner meat. e net result of all this le our beef, pork and, to a certain extent, lamb production in tatters as far as quality is concerned. is was mirrored in the poultry farming sector, where intensive battery production became standard. In recent years, public demand for quality, provenance and improved animal husbandry has brought some change and once again farmers are reaping the benefits of producing quality meats across the board. is is by no means the norm, though, so careful sourcing is of paramount importance. My general philosophy on cooking meat is fairly simple. e Square seems to be one of the last outposts of butter-basted roasting, a practice we have stuck to aer looking very carefully at the modern approach of low-temperature and water-bath cookery – the art of cooking vacuum-packed meat at a very low temperature. ere is enough material here alone for a book but suﬃce it to say that, with an intelligent approach, one can couple the advantages of both, and we now generally roast meat at lower temperatures. An extended roasting period yields meat with a depth of flavour and textural character that simply cannot be achieved in a water bath. ere are some potential advantages to the water-bath process but they do not manifest themselves in the mouth!

Most recently we have started roasting all our meat on the bone – be it best end of lamb, loin of pork or rib of beef. In an acknowledgement of practicality, the recipes in this book are more user friendly but the rump of veal and rib of beef recipes can still give rise to handsome pieces of meat. e more you focus on the meat, the less you have to worry about a sauce. So, well-rested, succulent slices of meat, coupled with a purée of some sort, require little more than their roasting juices. Sauces have been included in all the recipes for completion and, of course, a wonderful sauce does bring something to the plate but do not let the sometimes lengthy nature of their production put you oﬀ a recipe. It is worth focusing on the subject of resting meat. In particular where roasting is the technique, it is absolutely critical that meat is le to rest in order to allow the heat-aggravated proteins and fibres to relax. A rule of thumb is to let it rest at room temperature for up to half its cooking time. No juices should run when meat is carved and in this state a beautifully roasted piece of meat will deliver maximum succulence and tenderness. One final point on seasoning: large pieces of meat should be seasoned generously. Furthermore, once carved, the newly exposed surface will be lied and the flavours maximised with a fresh sprinkling of sea salt.

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FILLET OF AGED AYRSHIRE BEEF WITH A CROUSTILLANT OF OXTAIL, BONE MARROW, CEPS AND SNAILS SERVES 8

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As much as there are more interesting cuts of beef to work with, there is nothing quite like a fillet steak and here, coated in a rich, red-winebased oxtail sauce and garnished with snails, bone marrow and ceps, it forms the centrepiece of a dish that packs as big a punch as one could hope for.

e fillet steak is simply fried, then served with a rich red wine sauce based on the stock from braised oxtail. e oxtail meat itself is spiked with mushrooms and onion and formed into a crisp, potato-wrapped spring roll. e two are served with poached bone marrow, spinach and a sauté of ceps and snails with parsley and garlic. e dish is garnished with pieces of scorched onion.

FoCuS oN Although fillet is a supremely tender cut, it can be lacking in flavour. It is therefore important to buy beef that has been aged, preferably dry aged, for at least 28 days. is yields a fuller, rounder and altogether more mature flavour.

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kEy ComPoNENtS e oxtail sauce is not cheap but is every bit as important as the beef itself and provides a decadent, enriching lubricant for the dish. Ensure you caramelise the oxtail fully.

Oxtail sauce Oxtail croustillants Snails

tImINg Fresh snails are far superior to the canned variety and your investment in time and money will be rewarded (see page 516). Should you use canned, ensure they are well rinsed and try to buy small ones. Fresh ceps are one of nature’s great gis to the kitchen. If you cannot find them, simply use another variety. To make the potato spaghetti for the croustillants, you need a Japanese-style ‘turning’ mandoline. If you don’t have one, replace the spaghetti with a thin layer of kataifi pastry or simply double-roll the croustillants in feuilles de brick.

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e bone marrow requires 24 hours’ soaking to remove any blood. e oxtail sauce, croustillant mix, snails and bone marrow can all be prepared a day in advance. e scorched onion can be cooked 2–3 hours in advance but sautéing the ceps, cooking the spinach and the fillet of beef and deep-frying the croustillants all need to be done at the last minute.

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kEy ComPoNENtS e oxtail sauce is not cheap but is every bit as important as the beef itself and provides a decadent, enriching lubricant for the dish. Ensure you caramelise the oxtail fully.

Oxtail sauce Oxtail croustillants Snails

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8 x 4cm lengths of marrowbone 2 large white onions 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 145g unsalted butter 1.2kg beef fillet (or 8 x 160g portions) 100ml grapeseed oil 16 medium-sized fresh ceps, peeled, quartered, washed and diced 1 garlic clove, crushed 1 dessertspoon flat-leaf parsley, cut into fine shreds 300g young spinach 1 litre vegetable oil, for deep-frying

1 oxtail, cut into sections 100ml grapeseed oil 75g unsalted butter 1 Spanish onion, quartered 1 carrot, quartered 1 small leek, cut into 4 1 celery stick, cut into 5 10 button mushrooms, quartered 1 bouquet garni, made by wrapping a 6cm length of celery, a bay leaf and a sprig of thyme in a leek leaf and securing with string 2 teaspoons black peppercorns 750ml full-bodied red wine 500ml Veal Stock (see page 24)

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1 white onion, finely diced 2 large ceps or field mushrooms, peeled and finely diced 8 sheets of feuilles de brick 50g unsalted butter, melted 6 large Agria potatoes, or other good chipping potatoes

Place a large, heavy-based casserole over a high heat and leave for 2 minutes. Season the oxtail sections generously with salt and pepper. Add the oil to the pan and then add the oxtail pieces, cut-side down. Leave for 2 minutes or until they are dark brown, then turn them over, add the butter and colour the second side. Now turn them on to their sides and methodically colour all the edges. Remove the oxtail from the pan and add all the vegetables. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until they have coloured evenly. Add the bouquet garni and peppercorns and place the oxtail back in the pan. Add the red wine and simmer until it has reduced by threequarters. Add the veal stock and 2 litres of water. Bring to the boil, skim oﬀ any scum and then cook at a base simmer for 15 minutes. Skim oﬀ any more scum, cover with a lid and place in an oven preheated to 130°C/Gas Mark ¾. Cook for 3 hours, then check whether it is done by taking out a piece of oxtail to see if the meat pulls easily away from the bone; if it doesn’t, return to the oven and check every 15 minutes until this is the case. Set aside to cool.

SNAIlS 50 fresh snails or a 500g can of snails (if using canned snails, you won’t need the ingredients listed below) 25g unsalted butter 1 celery stick, cut in half ½ small leek, cut in half 1 small carrot, cut in half 15 button mushrooms, cut in half 1 bay leaf a sprig of thyme 1 head of garlic, cut in half

Pour the contents of the casserole into a colander set over a large bowl, take out the pieces of oxtail and set aside. Discard

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the remaining solids. Pass the cooking liquor through a fine sieve into a saucepan, skim oﬀ all the fat from the surface and reserve for the croustillants. Boil the stock until it has reduced to 500ml; it should now be a rich, dark-red, meaty sauce. Adjust the seasoning if necessary.

end and finishing at the other. Cut as required and tuck the final strands back under the preceding ones to prevent it unravelling during frying. Set aside, covered, in the fridge.

Li the meat oﬀ the oxtail bones and pick through it to ensure no small bones have found their way into it. Season with a little salt and pepper and set aside for the croustillants.

If you are using fresh snails, bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and plunge the snails into it for 30 seconds. Drain through a colander and refresh under cold running water. Using a toothpick or a small fork, extract the snails from their shells, trim oﬀ the intestinal tract and set aside, discarding the shells.

oxtAIl CrouStIllANtS Place a saucepan over a medium heat and leave for 1 minute. Add 50g of the fat from cooking the oxtail, followed by the onion and a pinch of salt. Cook for 3–4 minutes, until the onion is translucent and so. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring frequently, for 3–4 minutes. Tip the mixture into a bowl and add 250g of the oxtail meat and 75ml of the oxtail sauce. Stir gently to combine but do not over mix or the meat will break up too much. If you are doing this a day in advance, cover and store in the fridge. A couple of hours before cooking, lay out a sheet of feuilles de brick and trim the sides so it is 16cm wide. Trim the curved top and bottom oﬀ and brush with melted butter. Place 50g of the oxtail mix in a line 10cm wide at the end nearest you and then roll it, compressing as you go, into a ‘spring roll’, turning the excess feuilles de brick in towards the centre halfway through. Repeat with the remaining 7 sheets of feuilles de brick. Set aside in the fridge. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Peel the potatoes and, using a Japanese ‘turning’ mandoline, turn them into long, continuous strands of potato spaghetti. Plunge them into the boiling water for 15 seconds, then drain through a colander and refresh under cold running water. Carefully place these long bundles of potato on absorbent cloths and leave to dry for 1 hour. Carefully feel your way through the potato, liing it into manageable quantities, and one by one wrap the oxtail ‘spring rolls’ in a continuous, single layer of potato – starting at one

SNAIlS

Place a heavy-based pan over a medium heat and leave for 1 minute. Add the butter, followed by the vegetables and a pinch of salt. Sauté for 4–5 minutes, until lightly coloured, then add the bay leaf, thyme and garlic and cook for a minute longer. Add the snails and 1 litre of water. Bring to the boil, season with salt, then cover and place in an oven preheated to 120°C/Gas Mark ½. Cook for 2½–3 hours, until the snails are tender. Let them cool in their liquor. Pass the contents of the pan through a colander, collecting the stock in a bowl underneath. Pick out the snails, transfer to a small bowl, cover with some of the cooking liquor and discard the remaining solids and stock. Chill the snails. othEr INgrEDIENtS Soak the marrowbones in cold salted water for 12 hours. If the water becomes bloody, discard it and cover the bones with fresh water. Aer 12 hours, carefully extract the marrow by pushing it out with a finger and then soak it in cold salted water for a further 12 hours. Drain, cover and chill. to SErvE About an hour before serving, peel the 2 white onions. With the root end on the work surface, carefully cut vertically down through each onion so it is virtually cut in half – i.e. do not cut right the way through. Turn the onion through 90 degrees and similarly cut down again so it is now virtually cut into 4. In a similar way cut the onion 4 more times to give rise to 12 equally spaced cuts. Repeat with the second onion. Place

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1 white onion, finely diced 2 large ceps or field mushrooms, peeled and finely diced 8 sheets of feuilles de brick 50g unsalted butter, melted 6 large Agria potatoes, or other good chipping potatoes

Pour the contents of the casserole into a colander set over a large bowl, take out the pieces of oxtail and set aside. Discard

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end and finishing at the other. Cut as required and tuck the final strands back under the preceding ones to prevent it unravelling during frying. Set aside, covered, in the fridge.

Li the meat oﬀ the oxtail bones and pick through it to ensure no small bones have found their way into it. Season with a little salt and pepper and set aside for the croustillants.

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butter in a non-stick pan until lightly coloured, then drain on kitchen paper and keep warm. Bring the consommé to the boil. Carve the breast oﬀ the pigeons, li oﬀ the skin and slice each breast into 3 pieces. Drain the gnocchi. Lay out 8 preheated large bowls. Line each bowl with 2 pieces of spring greens. Place 3 gnocchi and 3 pieces of asparagus in each bowl, sit 6 pieces (2 breasts) of pigeon on top and garnish with 3 more pieces of asparagus and 2 more gnocchi. Pour over the hot consommé and drizzle a dessertspoon of hazelnut oil over each portion.

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THE SQUARE The Cookbook: Savoury by Philip Howard Hardback, $65