cold Play

Canada comes alive in the winter months with snow and ice providing a playground for young and old. Jo gardner looks at what’s available for the season beyond skiing it’s just that when everybody else is carving their way down the mountain i’ll be back in the village bubbling away in a hot tub or dipping bread into fondue in a restaurant with a view to die for. alternatively, such as today, i might be gliding across lake louise on skates. this quite beautiful body of water freezes each year when the temperatures plummet. i’m staying at the Fairmont Chateau lake Louise in Banff National Park in Alberta, a property so akin to a fairytale castle i almost expect to see rapunzel letting down her hair. the snow-capped rocky Mountains, emerald-green lake louise and Victoria glacier frame the view like an irresistible postcard (remember them?). it’s a crisp, blue-sky kind of day as i head to Chateau Ski and Snow rentals to get my skates. With no barrier to cling onto i feel nervous about taking my first step. and two hours’ later i’m contentedly sipping wine by an open fire whilst watching the snow fall outside, mine an unsympathetic ear listening to weary skiers complain about various aches and pains. it was their choice!

Despite trying many hairraising activities in my time – from skydiving to whitewater rafting to mountain biking – i’ve never understood the appeal of zipping down a snowy mountain on two planks of wood. however, that doesn’t mean i swerve ski resorts altogether; in fact, quite the contrary because they are some of the most beautiful spots in the world.

“The ice was definitely NOT this slippery when i was a child,” i mutter to myself as i gingerly push forward – and fall over. this happens several times until I find my stride. ten minutes later, i’m gliding around the lake with ease, the fresh air as intoxicating as the views.

Winter finding its feet

Covid, rising fuel costs and resorts and hotels needing to rebuild their staff numbers has presented Canada – like most countries –with challenges when rebuilding its tourism industry. however, with the borders fully open and entry restrictions lifted, and a roster of events returning bigger and better in 2023, the country is predicted to glide through the year with the 2023/24 winter season expected to be a busy one.

“the recovery of international travel is well underway. By last June and July inbound international air travel to Canada was already nearing pre-pandemic levels,” says Nathan McLoughlin, Travel Trade Manager, Destination Canada.

“there’s huge demand going into 2023... despite the rising cost of living, people still have the propensity to spend on once-in-alifetime experiences,” he adds.

that demand isn’t just for skiing and snowboarding holidays either, with more visitors looking to experience Canada’s winter wonderland in different ways –whether that is a winter-themed carnival, a snow shoeing excursion, dog sledding or a Northern Lights tour.

“Banff is a great place for non-skiers as there’s ice skating and dog sledding at the resort itself,” adds Mcloughlin.

“agents could also suggest that they drive to Jasper from here to see more of the region, or team Whistler with Vancouver for a winter city break; it’s nearby with loads to do beyond the slopes,” says Mcloughlin

Experiences off the slopes

Bathe in bubbles: Nothing beats being warm and cosy when it’s snowing and cold outside – and hot tubs are the perfect way to experience this juxtaposition. Dart across the snow in your cossie and sink into warm, bubbly water to admire the wintery scene. Many Canadian hotels have great spas with alfresco hot tubs for relaxing the muscles after a day on the slopes – try Québec’s Spa Fairmont le Chateau Montebello. fairmont.com/montebello.

Hair of the dog: Join the pack and race through the snowy mountainside on a sled pulled by huskies. get your own personal musher or take the reigns and learn about this time-honoured tradition. tour operators in the Yukon offer a half-day excursion with the option to include an overnight stay that offers the possibility of seeing the Northern Lights.

Tour the lakes: Join Mountain park transportation for an interpretive sightseeing tour in Banff National Park that visits some of the most iconic lookouts and lakes in the area. From classic lake louise, travel up the Icefields Parkway, where every winding curve fills the windshield with a new view. admire hector lake, Crowfoot glacier lookout and the historic Num-Ti Jah Lodge at Bow lake. mtnparktrans.com

Icy reception: there’s only one ice hotel in North America and that’s hotel de glace in Québec, an annual, made-from scratch property created using 500 tons of ice and 30,000 tons of snow. It takes 60 people five weeks to build the hotel, which includes 45 rooms and suites, ice beds, an ice restaurant and bar and an ice chapel. Fire pits, mattresses and insulating sheets keep guests warm. The Nordic Relaxation area boasts outdoor hot tubs and saunas. valcartier.com

Winter warmers: toronto’s annual Winterlicious food festival, which in 2023 will run from January 27 to February 9, is a celebration of local cuisine with over 200 of Toronto’s top restaurants offering fixed price menus for a fortnight and giving visitors the chance to try top-end restaurants at rock- bottom prices. around 75 of the city’s restaurants are included in Canada’s first-ever Michelin guide too, making the event even more delicious. destinationontario.com

Fat bike in Fernie : if you can ride a bike, you can ride a fat bike. the oversized low-pressure tires allow cyclists to ride along snowy or icy surfaces and peddle through the snow with ease. Fernie in British Columbia has a trail system perfect for winter riding. there are easy, multi-use community trails, groomed shared trails and challenging singletrack. trails are also maintained throughout the winter in prince Edward island, with some of the best found in Victoria-by-the-Sea and Stanhope. tourismfernie.com; princeedwardisland.ca

Ice Fishing: Canada is home to thousands of incredible ice fishing locations. in Saskatchewan, winter anglers set up their ice fishing shacks in their favourite spots, with tobin lake popular for its monster Walleye and lake trout. the lake is buried in the boreal forest and trimmed with resorts, cabins and campgrounds.

In the Northwest Territories, The Great Slave lake is one of the world’s top ten largest lakes and the deepest lake in North america. it is also one of the most remote ice fishing destinations in Canada but that doesn’t stop anglers travelling to yellowknife between mid-to-late-November and late March, hoping to reel in Whitefish, Pickerel, lake trout, inconnu and arctic grayling.

What’s new

in British Columbia, Sun peaks’ Snow limo has returned for the winter 2022/23 season, allowing guests that may not ski a chance to safely experience the high alpine and stunning vistas on various tours around the three mountains that surround the resort town. once guests are buckled into the specially designed sled, their professional guide jumps on the skis behind them and leans into turns just like skiers do. in alberta, Forest park hotel by pursuit opened in Jasper in summer 2022 as the town’s first new property since the 1980s. located in a quiet and relaxing mountain setting but an easy walk to the town’s shopping and dining options, it features a spa, heated pool and hot tubs. banffjaspercollection.com