Winter Activities

paul zizka photography

cold Play

Canada comes alive in the winter months with snow and ice providing a playground for young and old. Jo gardner looks at what’s available for the season beyond skiing

Despite trying many hairraising activities in my time – from skydiving to whitewater rafting to mountain biking – i’ve never understood the appeal of zipping down a snowy mountain on two planks of wood.

that doesn’t mean i swerve ski resorts altogether, however; quite the contrary – these are some of the most beautiful spots in the world. it’s just that when everybody else is tumbling down a mountain i’ll be bubbling away in a hot tub, tucking into fondue in a restaurant with a view or – today’s activity – ice skating on lake louise, a body of water that freezes each year as temperatures drop. i’m staying at the Fairmont Chateau lake Louise in Alberta’s Banff National Park, a property so akin to a fairytale castle i almost expect to see rapunzel letting down her hair. the snow-capped rocky Mountains, emerald-green lake louise and Victoria glacier frame the view like a postcard. it’s a crisp, blue sky kind-of-day when i head to Chateau Ski and Snow rentals to get my skates. With no barrier to cling onto i feel nervous about taking my first step.

“The ice was definitely NOT this slippery when i was a child,” i mutter to myself as i gingerly push forward – and fall over. this happens several times until I find my stride. ten minutes later, i’m gliding around the lake with ease, the fresh air as intoxicating as the views. two hours’ later, i’m contentedly sipping wine by an open fire whilst watching the snow fall outside, mine an unsympathetic ear listening to weary skiers complain about various aches and pains.

Winter finding its feet

Covid, rising fuel costs and staff shortages may have caused Canada – like most countries – to lose its footing over the past few years, but fully open borders and a roster of previously cancelled events returning bigger and better than ever are predicted to see the country glide into 2023.

“the recovery of international travel is well on its way, with inbound international air travel to Canada nearing pre-pandemic levels in June and July,” says laura Baxter, CoStar’s group Director of hospitality analytics for Canada. “the outlook for the rest of 2022 is positive, with the recovery inching closer to 2019 levels.”

“there’s huge demand going into 2023,” confirms Chris Hedley, Chief Executive for Canadian Affair, who says the operator has doubled up staff in both call centres and on the road to keep up with demand.

“Despite the rising cost of living, people still have the propensity to spend on once-in-alifetime experiences,” he adds. that demand isn’t just for skiing and snowboarding holidays either, with visitors looking to experience Canada’s winter wonderland in different ways – from carnivals to snow shoeing and dog sledding to Northern Lights tours.

“Banff is a great place for non-skiers as there’s ice skating and dog sleddging at the resort itself,” says Michael Williamson, Ski product Manager for Frontier travel.

“agents could also suggest that they drive to Jasper from here to see more of the region, or team Whistler with Vancouver for a winter city break; it’s nearby with loads

fat biking in fernie, britiSh ColUMbia

to do beyond the slopes,” he adds.

When asked about demand, Williamson says fl exibility is key. “We tailor-make our itineraries so holidaymakers can jet off for nine nights, rather than seven – say, leaving on a tuesday and returning on a thursday.... we will fi nd them availability.”

Experiences off the slopes

Bathe in bubbles: Nothing beats being warm and cosy when it’s cold outside, and hot tubs are the perfect way to experience this juxtaposition. Dart across the snow in your cossie and sink into warm, bubbly water to admire the wintery scene. Many Canadian hotels have great spas with alfresco hot tubs for relaxing the muscles after a day on the slopes – try Québec’s Spa Fairmont le Chateau Montebello. fairmont.com/montebello. Hair of the dog: Join the pack and race through the snowy mountainside on a sled pulled by huskies. get your own personal musher or take the reigns and learn everything about this time-honoured tradition. Various tour operators in the Yukon off er a half-day excursion with the option to include an overnight stay with the possibility of seeing the Northern Lights. Tour the lakes: Join Mountain park transportation for the only interpretive sightseeing tour in Banff National Park that visits some of the most iconic lookouts and lakes in the area. From classic Lake Louise, travel up the Icefi elds Parkway, where every winding curve fi lls the windshield with a new view. admire hector lake, Crowfoot glacier lookout and the

GOVERNMENT OF YUKON

Dog SleDDing in the YUkon

historic Num-Ti Jah Lodge at Bow Lake. mtnparktrans.com Icy reception: there’s only one ice hotel in North America and that’s hotel de glace in Québec, an annual, made-from scratch property created using 500 tons of ice and 30,000 tons of snow.

It takes 60 people fi ve weeks to build the hotel, which includes 45 rooms and suites, ice beds, an ice restaurant and bar and an ice chapel. Fire pits, mattresses and insulating sheets keep guests warm. The Nordic Relaxation area boasts outdoor hot tubs and saunas. valcartier.com Winter warmers: toronto’s annual Winterlicious food festival will run from January 27 to February 9 2023, a celebration of local cuisine with over 200 of Toronto’s top restaurants off ering fi xed price menus for a fortnight and giving visitors the chance to try top-end restaurants at rock- bottom prices. 74 of the city’s restaurants are included in Canada’s fi rst-ever Michelin guide this year, too, making the event even more delicious. destinationtoronto.com Fat bike in Fernie : if you can ride a bike, you can ride a fat bike. the oversized tyres on these off -road bicycles allow riders to peddle through the snow with ease. Fernie, British Columbia, has a trail system perfect for winter riding. there are easy, multi-use community trails, groomed shared trails and challenging singletrack. tourismfernie.com

What’s new

Soaking in the SCenerY at SUnShine Village, alberta

thrice-weekly route from Manchester to toronto for winter 2022/23. attractions: Whistler is home to a new, fi ne-dining restaurant, cocktail bar and lounge with a focus on elevated Pacifi c Northwest cuisine, sustainable seafood, and local ingredients.

Wild Blue restaurant + Bar boasts seating for 150 guests indoors, plus a private dining room, raw bar, and open kitchen.

Sun peaks’ Snow limo returns for winter 2022/23, allowing guests that may not ski a chance to safely experience the high alpine and stunning vistas on various tours around the mountains. once guests are buckled into the specially designed sled, their professional guide jumps on the skis behind them and leans into turns just like skiers do. accommodation: Forest park hotel by pursuit opened in Jasper in summer 2022 as the fi rst new property in Jasper since the 1980s. located on the edge of town, it is the ideal base camp for visitors looking to immerse themselves in nature while staying close to the town’s vibrant downtown shopping and culinary off erings.

Book it with...Inghams

A week’s stay at the fi ve-star Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel in Banff National Park starts at £1,835pp, based on two sharing, with Inghams including direct fl ights from London Heathrow to Calgary, transfers, accommodation and breakfast, for travel on January 17 2023. An upgrade to half-board costs £2,472pp.. inghams.co.uk

Winter fun in OntariO

Canada’s most diverse province is transformed in winter by lights, festivities and a blizzard of seasonal fun. Charlotte Flach checks out what’s on offer

From frozen falls to Snowflake Kingdoms, Ontario’s cities, towns and villages embrace the colder months with a full programme of winter events for both locals and visitors alike.

Christmas fun in Toronto

Enjoy world-class festive shopping, stock up on Yuletide-themed crafts and wrap your hands around a mug of mulled wine at the Christmas Market in the Distillery District.

Head to one of Toronto’s shopping malls for gifts that will outlast the winter: the Eaton Centre pulls out all the stops, with dazzling lights, awe-inspiring decorations and a giant 50-foot Christmas tree. Stop by Yorkdale Mall and the PATH for shopping, while the Cavalcade of Lights Festival at Nathan Phillips Square illuminates dark evenings.

Get active in Ottawa

For three weekends each February, Ottawa stages its popular Winterlude festival. The icy celebration revolves around the city’s iconic Rideau Canal, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Visitors can ice skate, try their hand at ice hockey or watch the crazy Bed Races, which sees decorated beds slide down the canal at top speed. Snowflake Kingdom is a gigantic snow playground for kids, while several museums host special events and seasonal programming, with opportunities to learn about and connect with Indigenous culture.

icY niagara falls toronto’s atMosPheric christMas Market

Hang out at Niagara

Niagara Falls is even more breathtaking in winter. Take a Journey Behind the Falls tour to get up close to the spray: seeing Niagara Falls at or near a frozen state during a winter trip is a sight to behold! Year-round activities include helicopter tours, which provide unique aerial views, and an adrenalin-inducing zip line. Hit the Icewine Festival in Niagara-on-the-Lake. The special dessert wine is made of grapes that froze prior to the vintage whilst still on the grapevine – they form the central component of three weeks of music, tours and events.

Glide into luxury at Muskoka

Nestled among rugged hills, tranquil lakes and brilliantly clear skies, JW Marriott The Rosseau Muskoka Resort & Spa offers a luxurious winter retreat on Lake Rosseau. Hotel activities include snow shoeing, ice skating, cross country skiing, nature walks, marshmallow roasting around the fire pit, extensive spa facilities, heated pools and a hot tub. Visit the Muskoka Lakes Farm & Winery in nearby Bala for romantic night time skating and mulled cranberry wine. destinationontario.com/uk

Wild Safaris IN NUNAVUT

With its stunning Arctic landscapes Nunavut is a natural home for some of Canada’s most sought after wildlife, says Charlotte Flach

The northernmost Canadian territory of Nunavut is a gateway to the pristine beauty of the Arctic circle. It is the largest yet least populated of Canada’s territories and is comprised of an Arctic island archipelago, including Baffi n Island.

Home to expansive and breathtaking landscapes, Nunavut is the same size as Western Europe and is inhabited by only 33,300 people, with 85% Indigenous Inuit.

Not accessible by car, sky and sea are the only ways to reach the last populated place in the north of the planet. Fly in from Edmonton, Ottawa and Montréal, then catch a ride on a snowmobile, dogsled or powerboat to travel between the many diff erent communities.

Tours tend to focus around the fl oe edge, or ‘Sinaaq’ in Inuktitut, where open water meets the ice still attached to the shoreline.

This unique eco-system is where polar bear, whales, walrus, beluga and narwhal among many other magical creatures of the northern hemisphere come to breathe, feed, rest and socialise, making it ideal for wildlife safaris and polar tourism excursions. In situ are several operators who take winter-clad clients deep into the heart of the action.

Arctic Bay Adventures

Arctic Bay is an Inuit hamlet located in the Qikiqtaaluk Region of Nunavut which has been occupied for nearly 5,000 years by Inuit migrating from the west.

All Arctic Bay Adventures’ tours are guided by local Inuit people, showcasing their way of life and unlocking the secrets of the land with their in-depth knowledge.

Clients hike the majestic snowscapes, take part in exhilarating dog sled rides, and spot native birds and wildlife. At the end of a long day of outdoor activities, there is comfortable accommodation and a warm bed waiting, before the excitement starts again the following morning.

Tours range from fi ve to nine days with highlights including a fi shing trip with skidoo, fi ve nights’ spent tracking roaming wildlife at the fl oe edge of Admiralty Inlet and camping under the midnight sun at Arctic Bay. arcticbayadventures.com

Black Feather

Wilderness Adventure Company Black Feather has been operating in the North for 50 years and off ers outfi tted, guided expeditions by hike, sea kayak and canoe as well as wildlife photography and Nordic skiing. The company employ local Inuit guides and staff whose famous wilderness cooking keeps everyone fuelled for long days on the fl oe edge.

Expeditions range from a ski traverse exploring the Auyuittuq and Quttinirpaaq National parks; canoing the Coppermine, Hood and Soper Rivers, and a Floe Edge Base Camp which takes guests sea kayaking at Pond Inlet, where the famous floe edge lies and where sightings of seals, polar bears, narwhals, bowhead whales, arctic fox, walruses and sea birds are most common. blackfeather.com

Arctic Kingdom

Arctic Kingdom capitalises on its relationships with the local Inuit people to research and gain insights on some of the best custom experiences in the Arctic. Clients can choose from scheduled Arctic safaris or private journeys, taking in the magnificent landscapes under the 24-hour sunshine in the summer or views of the stunning Northern Lights in the autumn and winter months.

The operator offers year-round polar bear viewing, as well as opportunities to safely see Arctic residents like narwhal, bowhead whales, and walrus.

Travellers can choose to spot mother polar bears with their newborn cubs or join a dive safari for a brush with the rich ecosystem surrounding Baffin island. arctickingdom.com

Baffin Safari

For intimate, small group adventures , Baffin Safari specialises in expeditions and tours in Canada’s High Arctic on Baffin Island. A maximum of eight people join each trip, meaning each day of the itinerary can be tailor-made.

The company’s Coutts Baffin Explorer itinerary takes clients out into the wilderness with a mobile camp, setting up in Coutt’s Fiord. From this base, clients will spend their days travelling to look for polar bear mum’s and cubs among the pack ice and icebergs. New for 2023 is the Baffin Safari mini cabins for two.

The cabins come with quality extreme cold Arctic sleeping bags on a comfy mattress, while 24 hour sunlight powers the solar panels on the cabin roof allowing USB charging inside. baffinsafari.com