a g lan CE B a C k to y E st E ry E ar

In 1979 the Cane Toad Rally was only 1 year old and the Editor that year was John Klumpp. John Designed a Board Game based on the main Motorcycle Rallies in Australia at that time and published it in the April 1979 Journal. I have added a bit of colour to it to make it a bit easier to follow.

Gary

By Tony Gray, Member #3905

We left Part One of NZ South Island with Tony and Jane at Queenstown where they certainly packed a lot into their stay… a ride up to Milford Sound where we parked next to a V75 Moto Guzzi.

Our journey south from Queenstown took us along the eastern shore of Lake Wakatipu then across rolling farming country before turning west and stopping for a coffee in Mosssburn. Jane had just been commenting on how few bikes we were seeing when we saw a Triumph being fuelled up across from where we stopped. Tony and Triumph joined us for coffee and although a Kiwi from birth he has lived in WA for the last 40 years. He keeps the bike with a mate in Invercargill and punts it around on his regular visits. Remembering the trouble we had to get our VTNZ Warrant of Fitness, I was amazed when Tony said he had been riding his bike around unregistered and without a WOF. He was pulled up by a country copper and having told him he was very naughty, allowed him to register the bike and get a WOF in a country garage without a fine!

As we stood outside the cafe two black Harleys pulled in and joined us for a chat. Brad & Julie hailed from Bulli south of Sydney so I assumed the Harleys, carrying NZ plates, were rentals. No, they had bought them in Auckland and were touring NZ for seven months before shipping the bikes to the UK for a full European tour. They had sold their printing business and their coastal home and were now going to enjoy the rewards of their hard work. To show what a small world it is, their business was next door to the construction company offices of one of my long term bike riding mates, and they had worked together as well as being involved socially.

For us it was into Te Anau where we had a day off bike enjoying a tour of Doubtful Sound then

Grant & Jane hailed from Wellington and were headed to Invercargill like us. They were meeting friends who were participating in a National Vintage Bike Rally over the National Holiday long weekend celebrating Waitangi Day. The predicted rain started as we were having coffee, the first real rain of the trip, so we suited up and rode back to Te Anau.

I had a couple of recommendations for our ride down to Invercargill, the first being a cafe at Orepuki, strangely called the Orepuki Beach Cafe. Unfortunately our coffee pangs did not last that long as we pulled in earlier at Tuatapere which just so happens to be the sausage capital of NZ. We just had coffee and shared a cheese scone but the French couple next to us tackled a plate of sausages & fries. They said the sausages were good. When we did eventually get to Orepuki there was a V75 Moto Guzzi in the carpark. We had a good chat to Jane & Grant and mentioned the second recommendation we had which was to divert from the town of Riverton to the coastal point where, on a clear day, there are great views of Bluff below Invercargill. We went there together and the advice was spot on with great views as well as an attractive beachscape on another picture perfect day.

We then tracked off to the Southland Vintage Car Club premises where a Vintage Bike Rally was being staged. Our friends Jane & Grant had invited us along as they were joining friends who were entrants in the event.

Grant led into Invercargill and left us at ‘Classic Motorcycle Mecca’ - the now world famous motorcycle collection of one man. Too much for

An interesting side note here - the family group that Jane & Grant were supporting were second & third generation family members riding the old bikes once ridden by their Father/Grandfather who had been a motorcyclist all his life and raised his family in that tradition. He attended all of the NZ rallies and now at least one family member still attends every rally on one of his bikes in his memory. A great family tradition. There was a great array of bikes on show from pre WW1 veterans, Vincents, Nortons et el as well as a few Beemers. There were also quite a few beautifully maintained vintage cars. When the entrants set off on a timed reliability trial we headed out to Bluff (not ‘The Bluff’) about 20km south of Invercargill. When we last visited in 2014 I had sent Jane up to the lookout alone as I was not going to leave the R1200RT we were riding for fear of it getting blown over in this story but it is a great museum but not the only one to view in Invercargill. the severe winds. This visit could not have been more different with calm winds under a baking sun. The views to Stewart Island (the most southerly part of NZ) and along the coast are very impressive. they were all happily doing beach things and left the roads relatively empty.

E Hayes Hardware store has a lot of Burt Munro memorabilia as well as some very interesting vintage and more modern bikes on free display. Imagine how long you would spend at Bunnings if they had that on offer? There is also ‘Transport World’ a car & truck museum that we did not have time to visit. Next morning it was still very hot as we headed out to Oreti Beach where Burt Munro used to take his Indian for shakedown runs and where races are now held during the BM festival. We were very surprised at how many Kiwis take their 2 wheel drive cars down onto the beach. We resisted the temptation.

We bade farewell to Invercargill and followed the Southern Scenic Route towards Dunedin through the rugged coastal region called ‘The Catlins’.

The sad part that somewhat detracted from the experience was that the road in many places had literally started to melt. If you remember the section of failed bitumen on the western side of Mt Glorious that had to be replaced then you will get the picture.

The name is derived from an old sea captain who ‘purchased’ a large tract of land in the area from a Maori Chief in 1840, a month before the Treaty of Waitangi was signed. The road twists, dips & turns in and out of little beach bays that were jam packed with cooking Kiwis on this Saturday of a long holiday weekend. Fortunately

After a couple of slides on the jelly the pace was reduced and classic lines thru corners replaced with whatever was still solid. It was still a fun ride but we were quite happy to get into our digs on the Otago peninsula outside Dunedin and cool off.

We had arranged a catch up here with fellow club members Rob & Kym Steer who were on a self guided tour of the South Island aboard a K1600.

A great night was had. We explored the Otago peninsula which has some beautiful roads running around the coast but a soft hand is required as its restricted to 40kph so relaxed mode. not as bad as expected. The rain continued off & on but had pretty much cleared by the time we got to Fox Glacier for the night stop. Next day it was clear again and we continued north past Franz Josef Glacier,

Dunedin itself is the most Scottish of NZ’s cities with a statue of Robert Burns dominating this city of impressive cathedrals. After a quick look around town we set off for a region we had not covered previously - the Central Otago. The landscape across central Otago is anything but what you expect in NZ.

The road however is sublime with a seemingly never ending rolling 75/85 posted sweepers.

There were strong winds however that kept us honest. We finished the day at Cromwell which sits on the man made hydro Lake Dunstan in an area than now supports vineyards & stone fruit orchards.

With some trepidation we were preparing to cross to the west coast via Haast Pass - our trepidation was fueled from a message from our friends Grahame & Gloria who had passed that way a few days earlier. They had experienced the worst winds in their riding memory and they had ridden throughout South America that is

Cape Foulwind boasts a NZ seal colony but that is not where it derives its name. Dear old Capt Cook gave it that handle during his Voyage of Discovery when he struck foul winds off the cape. It could also attract some foul language as the adjacent Westport had the most expensive fuel at $3.05/l for 95. Now that first fuel in Christchurch at $2.50/l seemed cheap. Oh how the big fuel companies condition and manipulate we poor motorists.

The Buller Gorge between Westport and Nelson is another of my favourite and well remembered South Island Roads.

It is a major Highway but that is hard to believe as it has several permanent single lane sections, including bridges, and carries a lot of double trailer trucks. The courteous driving habits of the NZ truckies allows this all to work smoothly as they invariably will pull over at the first renown for its high winds (note to editors - avoid the re-fried beans!). As we entered the steep canyons of the Haast Pass we saw the heavy rain clouds ahead so suited up and met it head on. It was indeed windy with, at times, heavy rain but very late arrival into Wellington but plenty of time opportunity to let traffic pass - never see that back home. Nelson itself is a top place to stay with access to the Tasman Peninsula to the N-W via the infamous Takaka Hill. That road is an absolute cracker with some incredibly tight turns - think of the highway heading south out of Queenstown Tasmania to give you some idea. This is the only road in and out of the Tasman Peninsula so again carries all of the heavy truck traffic.

Our last day on the south island had been extended as our planned 1pm ferry was cancelled and became a 6.30pm departure so a to explore the many bays of the Marlborough and Queen Charlotte Sounds.

These tight and twisting mountain roads had been severely damaged in previous rain events and had yet to be repaired. Care was required but the views were reward enough. We relaxed at Picton after almost 3 weeks and 4,000km of some of the best riding country in the world. We had been very lucky with the weather but that was all about to change as we looked to the North and an approaching Cyclone. To be continued…..