TRAVEl? YES PlEASE

By Tony Gray, Member #3905

Jane and I were at a family gathering (her side of the fence) when an innocent question was posed by one of Jane’s ‘mattress relations’. The question drew the attention of the well travelled, me included. From your own experience, name three places in the world (OZ excluded) that are top of your places to visit. Now I immediately became the inquisitor, well that depends: What are your interests? Scenic, Cultural, Culinary, Social, Sporting, History to name but a few? OK these are going to be very personal but if you look at tour companies they always include the iconic locations in their tour itineraries - who would go to Paris and not visit the Eiffel Tower or Rome and not visit the Colosseum? For a motorcyclist the roads on offer will always have a strong influence and these are then interwoven with the aforementioned interests. So here goes, my top three from a riders perspective in no particular order and the reasons why.

ISLE of MAN

This small Island, measuring just 572 km2 , (by comparison, Brisbane Council area is 1,343 km2) punches well above its weight. The TT races in the middle of the year and the Classic TT races later in August provide the most adrenalin laden excitement we have ever experienced. The Island also has a lot of natural beauty within its shores with scenery very much like Ireland. Many films with an ‘Irish Setting’ have been filmed on the IOM, no doubt assisted by its tax haven status.

Its recorded history dates back to Viking times (The Tynwald, the IOM Parliament, is of Norse origin and over 1,000 years old, and is thus the oldest parliament in the world with an unbroken existence). The Tynwald was obviously an enlightened Parliament because in 1874 The Isle of Man Pure Beer Act (also known as the Manx Pure Beer Act or simply the Pure Beer Act) was enacted, stating that only water, malt, sugar and hops were allowed to be used in production. The law still stands so no chemicals or preservatives can be included in their beer.

The same applies to their Ice Cream with Davison’s being the creamiest you will find anywhere. We can attest to the fine taste of both.

The Mountain Course on which the TT is conducted dominates the main centre of the Island and crosses its highest peak, Snaefell, at 621m. There are other shorter road race circuits to the south and north of the island. You have no doubt seen video of man & machine (women as well) kissing stone walls and hedges as they lap the course at average speeds exceeding 130MPH for the 1,000cc bikes. Well I am pleased to report that the IOM has an open speed limit outside of the villages - yes you can be booked for dangerous riding but not speeding of itself. There aren’t too many places in the world where that freedom is available. The Island also has a lot of natural beauty with a very rugged coastline, abundant sea life and some sandy beaches.

We have found the IOM population to be very friendly and welcoming - the majority of the population were born on the IOM with the largest % of imports being English with Ireland, Wales & Scotland contributing smaller numbers. True ‘Manxmen’ can trace their heritage back to Celtic & Nordic times with Fletcher Christian of Bounty fame one of their more well known number. Their pubs are small & cosy in English tradition and their food follows in similar vein - smoked kippers from Peel on the west coast are a local delicacy. Accommodation can be a real issue during the TT when the Island’s resident population of 90,000 swells by another 50,000 visitors. Homestays are common and we were very fortunate in finding a couple with whom we have formed a lifelong friendship. It is that sort of place.

ITALIAN DOLOMITES

If you believe that God created the earth, then one trip to the Dolomite Mountains will convince you that he had a eye out for Motorcyclists when he created these mountains. This is true motorcycling nirvana territory. This distinctive and striking mountain range along the border between Italy & Austria is home to over 20 mountain passes with the highest peak, Marmolada, at 3,343m.

It is impossible to enter or leave the region without crossing mountain passes. The road surfaces on the lesser used passes (those that don’t access a ski resort) leave a bit to be desired and its best to avoid the more popular passes on summer weekends but putting those

considerations to the side, it is not possible to ride these roads without a smile splitting your face from ear to ear.

The two World Wars of the 20th century had a major impact on the Italian/Austrian Border with the victor taking the spoils. The cafe/restaurants are very much Italian with superb light pizza being a staple while the Garni style accommodation very much follow Austrian design with their brightly coloured flower arrangements in window boxes during the spring & summer seasons. This is a very popular destination for motorcyclists, cyclists, walkers and just general tourists. As such, English is widely spoken and there are plenty of accommodation options. We prefer the ‘Garni’ style which is more of a private hotel or larger B&B with some being over 2 or 3 levels and all offering breakfast and sometimes dinner. They are great places to meet fellow travelers from different lands and share experiences. The towns (villages) sit snugly in the Valleys in picture postcard settings.

Mountain weather can change quickly but generally speaking these mountains are a good place to avoid the severe heat which is becoming much more common during the European summer. If you want to hone your cornering skills then there is no better place to go - just sublime.

PACIFIC NORTH-WEST & CANADIAN ROCKIES

This is a tough one to define but I have gone for this two-country region because it is no great deal to cross between Canada & the USA (at least it wasn’t back in 2015). The Icefield Parkway between Jasper & Banff in British Columbia is quite rightly rated as one of the top drives in the World.

The scenery is truly spectacular but it still remains as the only place in the world outside of OZ where I have been booked - but Officer I was distracted, look at that scenery! The Icefield Parkway certainly has it for scenery but there are many other great riding roads in BC and its sister Province of Alberta and just over the border in Montana, Wyoming, Idaho, Oregon & Washington. Sun’ Road but crossing Beartooth Pass on the day it opened after a long winter hibernation. That remains one of the most spectacular rides we have ever undertaken.

This whole area has great history with the Lewis & Clark Expedition of the very early 19th Century meeting with the tribal natives and opening up a lot of the region - they were a bit like our Burke & Wills but much more successful and lived to tell their tale. There are many markers and memorials to their expedition. There are probably more National Parks here than anywhere else in the USA and a much smaller population so no traffic problems - Yellowstone NP being a very big exception to this rule.

Then you have the wildlife - Bears, Bears & more Bears but I have heard tales of modern day explorers who have traversed the region without encountering even one of these dandelion munching furry mammals.

Ed: Surely no-one could be that unlucky, unless they visited just after the Herpichs who - according to the data - rounded up all bears on the continent and shipped them back to Port Macquarie.

Bison are another local who are quite fearsome, when they get up close and personal - with you sitting on a motorcycle with no escape route.

We have found the locals to be friendly and generally they speak a discernible form of the English language. The food won’t win any awards, beer likewise and accommodation somewhat more like bland Australian Motels without our option of a good old country pub. So there you have it, my three world locations that I would revisit in a heartbeat on my motorcycle. It’s not easy when I had to dismiss such places as NZ, Norway, the European Alps, Scottish Highlands, Ireland, the Adriatic Coast…….but I could only pick three. Where would yours be?

Ed: While on the topic of bison, this photo at the Bison National Range in Montana on our 2016 trip perfectly captures the magnificence of these animals. It was like sneaking into Buckingham Palace but only seeing Prince Edward.