9 minute read
TRiP ARoUND AUS PART 4
Part 4. By Liezel Samuel, Member #4412
Gnomes and Arum Lilies
We were really spoilt during the four days we stayed with my friend in Perth. My friend arranged for her husband to fly down from Exmouth, where he is building houses, to make dinner for us – South African style (Braaivleis [Barbeque], salads and veggies). It was a treat indeed, as our dinner decision process on this trip was as follows: 1. Is there a Hungry Jacks in this place? If yes (very seldom), dinner sorted. If no, go to question 2. 2. Is there a Coles/supermarket in this place?
If yes, visit Coles/supermarket and buy 2x
Caesar salads. Dinner sorted. If no, go to 3.
3. Let’s find food within walking distance… Our visit to Perth was rounded off with a cooked breakfast on our last morning. Did I mention my friend’s husband knows his way around the kitchen? There was no need to have a lunch stop on our way to Dunsborough. Our travelling speed from Perth to Dunsborough was relatively slow due to traffic in the built-up areas. We made a 120km detour to Black Diamond Lake near Collie, and by the time we approached Busselton, the slow speed made me drowsy, and it was time to rest my eyelids for a while. I got off the GS at Busselton fully refreshed and ready to walk the 1.8 km long Jetty. I was perplexed by Huw’s less enthusiastic mood. He later told me the 17km stretch before Busselton was a GS-rider’s (open eyes) nightmare due to roadworks that forced travelling speed to a snail’s pace on the narrow road lined with bright orange cones on both sides.
The stimulating company, tasty food and good wine on our last night in Perth interfered with our planning for the ride to Dunsborough where we based ourselves for the four nights to explore the Margaret River Region. When we started to work on our Margaret river itinerary, we realised we missed the Wellington Dam Mural and Gnomesville – both located within 40 kms of the Black Diamond Lake we went past on the way to Dunsborough. No big deal.
Huw walking off his roadworks frustration on the Busselton Jetty
We added these two attractions on the agenda after visiting the Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse and Sugarloaf Rock. I did not mind doing some extra mileage on the GS in these beautiful surroundings. Arum lilies grow wild everywhere and form beautiful displays under trees where they often grow en masse.
Ed: Let’s briefly recap here Liezel - Hungry Jacks? WTFF (what the fast food)? We googled Gnomesville. Thought we’d opened a group photo of senior members of the BMWMCQ..... Sugarloaf Rock and Ice-Cream
I first heard about the Horizontal Falls located in the Buccaneer Archipelago, 255km north of Broome, during a conversation with a lady in the pool at Lake Argyle. For various reasons, we did not go there. Mario and Fiona did visit the Horizontal Falls, and when we caught up with them in Broome earlier on the trip, Fiona described the falls to me. When I saw the water rushing to-and-fro in the Canal Rocks south-west of Yallingup, I suggested to Huw we were witnessing a smaller version of the famous horizontal falls. After the Canal Rocks, we went for a lovely ride through the Boranup Forest where we felt dwarfed by the massive trees that line the road. Next were the Jewel Caves and the
Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse, the tallest lighthouse on mainland Australia built in 1895.
Empty car park at the Canal Rocks south-west of Yallingup
Sugarloaf Rock, Cape Naturaliste
No doubt, due to the (slightly) wet winter weather, the roads, wine-farms and all the beautiful sites we visited were quiet with minimal people around. Empty carparks became the norm and allowed Huw to easily spec out slopes for parking the GS. A visit to the Margaret River region will be incomplete without a stop at Cowaramup, a.k.a Cow Town, where there are 42life-sized fibreglass Friesian cows and calves displayed around the streets, parks and shops. The town smashed the Guinness World Record for the largest gathering of people dressed as cows in 2014 - 1,352 people dressed in Cow onesies! It provided an excellent stop for coffee and replenishing energy rations from the Temper Temper Fine Chocolate store that makes an amazing range of speciality chocolates. Sometimes, I think riding a GS is a bit like walking your beautiful Golden Retriever. Strangers stop and talk to you and want to share their own Retriever/GS stories. One such occasion was when a lady approached us just as we were about to get on the GS after exploring the Kevill Road Waterfalls near Margaret River. She offered to take this photo of us -
“…because my husband also rides a GS”.
I was glad my friend in Perth recommended Simmos Ice Creamery (in Dunsborough) – who makes the most delicious ice cream in 60 different flavours! It made for a delightful afternoon pause before visiting the picturesque Shelley Cove near Bunker Bay with its photogenic granitic rocky shoreline and weathered trees. Huw was brave enough to strip off his gear but stopped short of going into the chilly water. His tongue may still have been too cold from the two scoops of Simmos ice cream he devoured earlier…
A Skywalk or Two
Albany was our next base for four nights. En route to Albany, Nannup was in the midst of their Flower Festival and the town was in full bloom with reportedly over 10,000 tulips on display. We were not aware of the festival until we entered the town and it resulted in a pleasant, unplanned, stop.
Next was the Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk in the Walpole National Park. The highest point of this walk is 40 metres above ground, with
the trees growing up to 70 metres. Back on the ground, it was interesting to see how the Tingle trees continue to grow for more than 400 years despite their hollow trunks that are so big you can walk through them (Huw demonstrated). At the Torndirrup National Park near Albany, we went to a viewing platform 40 metres directly above the surging seas of The Gap. The steel mesh grid floor of the viewing platform was similar to the one at Kalbarri and proved too much for one lady who was too scared to walk on it after she caught sight of the roaring water below her feet. Close by was the Natural Bridge, a granite formation that looks just like a giant rock bridge. It was captivating to watch the waves crashing into the granite cliffside and rushing under the bridge. Huw was determined to keep me (reasonably) fit, so next on the agenda was the 4.7km (return) Castle Rock Trail in Porongurup Park to the Castle Rock Granite Skywalk. It starts with a 2km stretch of solid uphill hiking (269m vertical climb) along a forest path. Stone steps on the upper part eased the climb a bit. Near the top, grateful for a break, we took some photos of the Balancing Rock, a large granite boulder that appears to be defying gravity by just sitting on a rounded piece of granite. I was too tired to consider the consequences of the rock deciding to capitulate to the forces of physics and roll down the hill while we were there.
To get to the start of the ladder for the 7m ascent to the viewing platform, we had to clamber over and between large granite boulders. Mercifully, a series of stainless-steel grab handles bolted into the rocks made it possible to negotiate our way through. I was thankful for my riding gear that protected my knees when I bumped into the boulders and the cage-like structure around the ladder when the wind tried to steal my hat while I desperately needed both hands for climbing. The views from the top were amazing and worth the effort. Famished after the climb, we indulged in pies and shared an apple slice at the Mt Barker Country Bakery, another recommendation from my friend in Perth.
Liezel on the way up
Skywalk viewing platform Getting Drenched
The next day the weather forecast predicted some rain for the afternoon. We started off with a visit to Greens Pool on the edge of William Bay National Park near Denmark. This green/turquoise cove is almost completely sheltered from the waves of the Great Southern Ocean by rounded rock boulders. We witnessed a handful of (not so sane) individuals silly (or brave) enough to swim in the 12°C water. Air temperature, per the GS, was 14.5°C. We walked along a short trail, and with my confidence in rock-climbing skills refreshed from hiking up Castle Rock, I followed Huw up a large boulder to view the Elephant Rocks. These huge granite boulders resemble a herd of elephants sunning themselves before heading off for a swim in the beautiful turquoise water. When the rain held off, we made our way via beautiful green cattle farms to Little Beach in the Two Peoples Bay Nature Reserve, east of
Albany. When we reached Little Beach however, I only managed to take two quick photos (still wearing my helmet), when the rain started. With no visible shelter nearby, we got back on the GS, and within minutes got drenched in one almighty windy rainstorm. I had visions of tipping water out of my boots, just like Cindy and Duncan did when they were caught in the storm on the way to Gympie one Saturday afternoon.... Oh well, the rest of the afternoon provided opportunity for exciting activities like laundry, drying our gear and applying for South Australia border passes. I was pleased we had time the following day to re-visit picturesque Little Beach and its next-door neighbour Waterfall Beach.
Greens Pool near Denmark
the (no longer) Pink Lake before returning to Esperance. The beauty of the beaches on the loop only slightly prepared us for the arresting beauty of the beaches in Cape Le Grand National Park. Unfortunately, the full-sized Esperance replica of Stonehenge was closed, presumably due to COVID.
Esperance
The 480km ride from Albany to Esperance was charming but cold and a coffee stop at Jerramungup helped us to warm up a bit. The maximum temperature for the day (and the next) was 14°C. Esperance has a reported population of less than 15,000 and the Shire claims to have one of the lowest population densities to be found anywhere (whatever that may mean). We experienced it as a place of contrast. For example, the first photo following was taken from the esplanade facing the Esperance Bay. The second photo was taken from almost the same spot after turning 180°. Most of the beauty of Esperance lies in the 40km Great Ocean Drive circular loop that took us along the Southern Coastline to view stunning beaches, rocky headlands, small bays, steep cliffs and hidden ocean pools. The loop includes
Coastline from Observatory Point Lookout on the Esperance Great Ocean Drive End of Part 4.
