Embers restaurant are making fine dining accessible through their concept of wood fire cooking and friendshipnew summer menu review

By Amy Stanborough

I first knew of Embers when I smelt it. Wandering around the lanes, it’s impossible not to sniff the burning of wood as this new restaurant prepares for an evening of cooking. It’s one of my favourite smells, and I have the ‘embers’ White Company candle to prove it. Tucked down Meeting House Lane, this spot unsurprisingly became a must-try. When I saw that they had announced a new summer menu, I had to be one of the first to try it.

One of the best things about food is, and always has been for me, the stories that come with it; the memories that taste can unlock. One Christmas I was in Berlin and, roaming around the food markets, I noticed these large cuts of salmon being smoked and cooked on planks of wood over an open fire. The smokey, woody flavour consolidated for me that this is how food should be made and enjoyed - using our elements to take charge of the finest and best ingredients. That, I presumed and hoped, is what I was getting myself into by entering a restaurant named Embers.

Founded by chefs Dave Marrow (previous head chef at Terre a Terre) and Isaac BartlettCopeland (owner of Isaac At), this was guaranteed to be a culinary adventure. Their goal for Embers was to create an inclusive space with the concept of fire and friendship. The smaller, dimly lit space made for a romantic atmosphere, accurately imitating that feeling of chatting with mates over a campfire. Located in the center of the dining area was the food being charred and roasted in the medieval-style fire cage, as the chefs waltzed around their counter space. Locating the kitchen right in the middle of the restaurant really highlights the importance of finely made dishes, and the care that goes into every detail, every garnish, as it travels just steps to your table. It is high end food which feels as though it has been prepared exclusively for you in your own home.

The lovely waitress was very happy to answer questions about the menu, and point out the specials. But first, we each ordered a cocktail. The Contractor’s Lady (£11.50) - dry gin, apricot & peach, citrus - was extremely smooth and sweet. The Lychee Martini (£11.50) - lychee liqueur, pink gin, chambord, citrus - was fresh and even more sweet. They were both served in martini glasses, and garnished accordingly. Alongside our handcrafted cocktails, were some complimentary olives, which was a pleasant way to establish our meal.

For food, we were spoiled with the choices of small plates, or show stopping center pieces fit to share. It was recommended that we ordered 6-7 small plates between two people, or 2-3 small plates plus one central sharer. We opted for the small plates in order to try more creations, which had an equal balance between vegetarian, fish, and meat dishes. Plus, it should be noted that a lot of the vegetarian plates were also vegan, and many of the options were also gluten free making this a reasonably inclusive menu.

Following staff recommendations, we ordered the beef short rib and chicken leg which were noted as regular customer favourite plates. We also went for the sea bass, charred broccoli, charred peppers, and sticky aubergine.

In two pairs of three, our dishes quickly appeared. The ability to witness our food being cooked, plated, and travelling straight to the table made the experience immersive. We first tried the beef short rib with anise glaze and wasabi mayo (£12) which was unbelievable. Even the diner on the table sitting next to us said, “that’s amazing that beef is” as he watched the plate land in front of us. He was not wrong. It was so soft, and that glaze was so sticky. The mayo was not harsh either. It answered Dave and Isaac’s aim to deliver simple yet punchy and memorable dishes with the very best ingredients.

The Chicken Leg was next and if you think ordering chicken is a predictable choice, think again. It was possibly the favourite dish of the night. Served with honey butter and pul biber aioli

(£10.50), the flavours were dreamy. Chicken meat succulent, with charred skin which tasted perfectly burnt, do not underestimate the simplicity of this dish. With our first round of plates, we were also served the charred broccoli with sweetcorn cream, mole and hazelnut (£8.50). The crispy parts of the tender stem had a hint of saltiness to it. Swiping through the sweetcorn cream created an interesting earthy, smooth concoction. Two of my favourite vegetables evidently deserve to be together.

Once we had cleared our plates, they were taken away and out came the second half of our dinner. This also became a drink interval for our second round of cocktails. We went for Alessandro’s Legacy (£9.50) which was served in a wine glass. A delightful, botanical spritz of Chenin Blanc, Brighton Gin, italicus, and cucumber. This was a great pairing for the fish which then arrived. The sea bass with salsa rosso (£13.50) flaked apart with the touch of a fork. It was salty, fresh, and the salsa had a stunning little kick.

Next was the sweet bell pepper (£9) on a mound of butter beans, tomato and chilli oil. My dining partner was not overly keen with the overall texture of this plate. The butter beans were not to her preference, but I swept them up and ate what she didn’t with pleasure. While I enjoyed this plate, I personally believe the beans somewhat stole the show from the pepper. They, instead, should have been the focus.

Finally was the sticky aubergine (£8.50) which was very rich. The mysterious “sticky” had a very pungent taste which we admittedly enjoyed more once we gave it a chance. Balanced with the fresh, sweetness of the other dishes, this one struck as slightly unusual. With the kimchi carrot top, it was extra sharp.

It was impossible to resist a desert, especially when we read ‘The Rolo’ and identified that as the gorgeous looking chocolate pudding the gentleman sat beside us had just delved into and enjoyed. Chocolate, caramel and burnt butter ice cream (£9), we shared this sweet treat and glad we did so because it was very rich. Like a hard ganache in texture, with an oozing caramel middle, it imitated its chocolate inspiration well. I enjoyed how the burnt butter ice cream was on theme for the embers element of the restaurant, though it made the pudding even more sweet. Again, we wiped the plate clean, entirely satisfied with the luxurious tastes of our dinner.

Embers is certainly a fine dining experience but one which is inviting and more casual than what you may expect. There was immaculate service, great care to details in every dish served, and an atmosphere that is quietly seductive. They take a classic barbecue, the key to any English summer, and transform it into this concept which is so refined yet modest. Reserve this restaurant for a special occasion or space to impress as the menu is not cheap, but it’s definitely worth coming here at least once. I would personally love to return, with rotating specials, and centrepieces still to try. Now, every time I embrace that smell of burning embers, my mind will travel back to my evening at 42 Meeting House Lane.

Your new favourite coffee shop on the block DANDY.

Your new favourite coffee shop has arrived in Brighton’s North Laines. In the midst of Sydney Street, you will find the quaint spot, Dandy, between The Flour Pot Bakery and We Love Falafel. Inside, the vibe is cozy and rustic as owners Rory and Holly want you to feel comfortable at their little haven. They prioritise serving good coffee which is not intimidating or overcomplicated. The minimalism of Dandy allows the rush of Sydney Street beyond the large window to do the talking. You can take a seat on the stools by the window, or on the bench outside the store, and watch the world pass by with each sip of an Americano or iced latte.

The story of Rory wanting his own coffee shop sparked from a moment of spontaneity, when he applied to be a barista in 2014 in London, having no prior coffee experience. But it became an industry he fell in love with, later opening Brewshack Coffee in Hove. This first baby of Rory’s was a little coffee cart in BIMM carpark, before he became ready to open something just a bit bigger which came to be Dandy.

Serving up Murmuration Coffee Co. and TeaPigs Tea, Dandy works with some well loved tastes. They have also been baking up their own in-house banana and nutella muffins, with more counter sandwiches and snacks to come. What’s more, a downstairs area is in the process of being refurbished so that there are more cozy corners within Dandy to explore.

I asked Rory and Holly to tell us a little bit more.

What advice would you give to anyone who is interested in working as a barista, or in coffee in general?

It might sound obvious, but being incredibly passionate about coffee is an absolute must! The best barista’s are the coffee geeks. If you have the love for making coffee, it will never feel like a chore.

And very importantly, making amazing coffee is all about keeping everything as clean as humanly possible.

What advice would you give to someone who also wants to open a coffee shop?

Always strive to be the best, and have patience. Focus on creating a welcoming vibe, and look after every single customer as if they are your only customer.

How do you intend to connect Dandy to the vibrant community and culture of Sydney Street?

We are planning to launch some fun, in-store events for the local community - starting with a latte art throw-down which we hope will bring the Brighton coffee community together. The prize will be the Dandy Cup - which the winner can display in their coffee shop, until the next latte art competition!

What makes Dandy unique amongst competitors?

We hope to foster a vibe in our coffee shop that makes you feel like you’re in our living room. We want speciality coffee to feel accessible to everyone, and for anyone to walk into Dandy and feel at home.

What is your go to coffee order?

Chemex pour-over, or a flat white if I know it’s coming from a good coffee shop. I’m currently loving our Kenyan coffee, roasted by our amazing coffee supplier Dom from Murmurations Coffee Co.

Are you hiring?

Hopefully soon, so that we can catch up on some sleep!!

Follow Dandy on Instagram @dandycoffeebrighton

Title

Joy Ride Fri 7 July

Oludes cons a conirmihil ute hem essul horistium ut in tuit L. Valest aces fatiam. Habessunum inamquerdio, nicae nonotan ticividerei iam tam criost publiis efenimorume nostere, Catum halin sum que que poercerceres Catis opossero cem loctandam occhuci virmantri ius in se inate munterf ecerica perninp riocrec onscrio retiquam moris tistellabeme aut vit; etius faut audetrit, stratum modiem ad diis hicerei fin sic virma, cupio avoc, se consum ta propotelut grarevirtiam P. Mullatius, nocciem huit.

From the producers of Neighbors and the co-screenwriter of Crazy Rich Asians, this unapologetically explicit comedy looks at identity and self-discovery. Starring Ashley Park, Sherry Cola, Stephanie Hsu Sabrina Wu, it centres on four unlikely friends embarking on an international adventure.

When her business trip to Asia goes sideways, Audrey (Park) enlists the aid of Lolo (Cola), her irreverent, childhood best friend who also happens to be a hot mess. Soon they’re joined by Kat (Hsu), her college friend turned Chinese soap star and Deadeye (Wu), Lolo’s eccentric cousin. It turns into a journey of bonding, friendship, belonging and debauchery, revealing the universal truth of what it means to know and love yourself.

Dicienam eo, quam. Sentenatum Romni senditidie adem et publicio egilicae con Ita pra restro ex muncere alinam se tervidi umentrae te no. Ubis.

Etrunum derem mortum, nit L. M. Mulis. Quonsu sus hoc, no. Oltus iam poterei in depereh ebulesse hosus. Ti. Graec rem, niu crissum tebes re diu egit ad diis abut aperficii senin pere esse consupiorum tam acidem intia vitem dit. Viverumum

BARBIE

FRI 21 JULY

Likely to be the film event of the year, Mattel’s iconic doll gets a big screen outing. Directed by the peerless former queen of mumblecore, Greta Gerwig (Damsels In Distress, To Rome With Love, Lady Bird, Little Women), it also draws inspiration from Mary Pipher’s exploration of the societal pressures on adolescent women - Reviving Ophelia.

Starring Margot Robbie and Ryan Gosling as Barbie and Ken, we find our untraditionally proportioned plastic heroine expelled from Barbieland for being a less-than-perfect doll (GASP!). Undaunted, she sets off to the real world to search for true happiness. Can she survive her existential crisis, and can Ken stop being so hopeless?

Title

Oludes cons a conirmihil ute hem essul horistium ut in tuit L. Valest aces fatiam. Habessunum inamquerdio, nicae nonotan ticividerei iam tam criost publiis efenimorume nostere, Catum halin sum que que poercerceres Catis opossero cem loctandam occhuci virmantri ius in se inate munterf ecerica perninp riocrec onscrio retiquam moris tistellabeme aut vit; etius faut audetrit, stratum modiem ad diis hicerei fin sic virma, cupio avoc, se consum ta propotelut grarevirtiam P. Mullatius, nocciem huit.

MISSION: IMPOSSIBLEDEAD RECKONING PART ONE WEDS 12 JULY

This preview will self-destruct in five seconds… At a time when most men his age are adopting a neutral-coloured wardrobe and accompanying every single movement with a gentle groan, Tom Cruise remains one of the planet’s biggest action stars. Ethan Hunt and his IMF team are back for their most dangerous mission yet.

Dicienam eo, quam. Sentenatum Romni senditidie adem et publicio egilicae con Ita pra restro ex muncere alinam se tervidi umentrae te no. Ubis.

They’re tasked with finding a terrifying new weapon before it falls into the wrong hands. With the fate of the world at stake, and dark forces from his past closing in, Hunt is forced to consider that nothing can matter more than his mission - not even the lives of those he cares about most.

Etrunum derem mortum, nit L. M. Mulis. Quonsu sus hoc, no. Oltus iam poterei in depereh ebulesse hosus. Ti. Graec rem, niu crissum tebes re diu egit ad diis abut aperficii senin pere esse consupiorum tam acidem intia vitem dit. Viverumum

Oppenheimer

FRI 21 JULY

Christopher Nolan turns his hand to Kai Bird and Martin J. Sherwin’s 2005 biography, American Prometheus. With his trademark grandiose staging and occasional impenetrability. Cillian Murphy stars as Robert Oppenheimer, the American theoretical physicist who ushered humanity into the atomic age.

The ensemble cast includes Emily Blunt, Matt Damon, Robert Downey Jr, Florence Pugh, Rami Malek, Josh Hartnett and Kenneth Branagh. Promising another collection of cinematic feats (Nolan recreates the Trinity Test - the first ever detonation of a nuclear weapon - along with shooting sections with black & white IMAX film), the film recreates the astonishing story of the weapon which defined World War II.