SPRING 2013
BEST OF BRITISH LUXURY BURBERRY’S ICONIC LOOK SAVILE ROW: WHY WORLD LEADERS’ SUITS HAVE BEEN MADE HERE FOR CENTURIES LONDON’S MOST EXCLUSIVE PRIVATE MEMBERS’ CLUBS
PLUS
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WELCOME
INTRODUCTION As a woman it’s a rare treat to step into the world of menswear and the ‘British Gentleman’. The very phrase conjures up images of men in bowler hats, carrying umbrellas in a frightful hurry. Whether its been conceived through film, photography or simply a cliché, there is nothing like a stroll down some of London’s cobblestone streets to recapture that sense of old fashioned elegance. British luxury offers a chance to enter the domain of the British gent, to a refined world of manners, genteel attitudes and courtesy – qualities that are often found wanting in modern society. In this issue we feature a diverse array of exemplary gents, all admirable in distinct and varied ways. From Marcus Margulies (p12), an icon in the watch world, to the inimitable Paul Smith (p5), whose designs are the very embodiment of English style. Men are lucky enough to get luxury in a double dose; great garments to wear and fabulous places to wear them. John Arlidge explains the continual allure of the gentleman’s club, on p10. Please enjoy this, our first issue and relish in what maketh the man; great shoes, (p16) a fabulous suit, (p18) a couple of perfect accessories preferably in leather that will only get better with age (see page p14) and a jacket designed for heroic acts (p22). Should you wish to find out more about anything you read here please contact info@kingdomwealth.co.uk
04 NEWS
08 SIR PAUL SMITH
14 THE GUIDE: SAVILE ROW
21 THE GUIDE: MAYFAIR AND ST JAMES’S
BBL EDITORIAL Editor in Chief Laura Lovett Publisher Charlie Barda Art Director Jon Morgan Chief copy Editor Chris Madigan Copy Editor Sarah Evans Editorial Director Peter Howarth Editorial Assistants Sabrina Xu and George Tan
Best of British Luxury is produced on behalf of Hurun by Kingdom Wealth, 74 Princes House, Notting Hill, London W11 3BW +44 (0) 203 544 1809; info@kingdomwealth.co.uk
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BULLETIN Superb craftsmanship, exquisite detailing and impeccable design are the hallmarks of these British heritage brands 01
02
03
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LUXURY TO LAST A LIFETIME
02 THE ULTIMATE MEN’S COLLABORATION
03 LIBERTY OFFERS THE BEST OF OLD AND NEW
04 MADE IN ENGL AND
Asprey is a British institution,
Belstaff, the master of motorcycle chic,
Liberty, from its iconic haberdashery
Mulberry‘s latest must-have bag is the
renowned for its highly crafted luxury
renowned since 1924 for its stylish
department to oriental rugs in the
Willow. An elegant tote with a beautiful
goods for over 200 years. For 2013 the
leather outerwear, has joined forces
central atrium, has been a home-
yet common-sense design, it features
house has created a unique elephant
this season with Goodwood, the British
maker’s paradise since 1875 – the
a detachable oversized clutch: suitable
animal rocker for children. Taking five
summer’s most iconic racing event. The
peak of the Arts & Crafts movement.
for every occasion. Since showing in
months to carve in American white oak
resulting new collection ‘Goodwood
This spring the mahogany halls of
Mulberry’s s/s 2013 catwalk show, it
with a handmade saddle and individual
Sports & Racing Collection by Belstaff’
the third and fourth floor showcase
has been loved by stars including Kate
leaves of 24ct gold the whole is buffed
focuses on the brand’s iconic jackets,
a cool combination of contemporary
Moss, Elisabeth Moss and Lily Collins.
to a glossy, high shine in the creation
capturing the essense of British racing
and antique furniture. From hip British
The Willow renews Mulberry’s focus
of a true heirloom piece.
in the Sixties but with updated fits for
brands such as House of Hackney
on UK-produced pieces being entirely
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the most discerning modern man.
and Ercol to up-and-coming designers
made in its Somerset workshops.
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05 FOR MEN ONLY
CAR OF THE CENTURY
Smythson’s spring/summer 2013 men’s accessories take inspiration from
Iconic British supercar Aston Martin
the colours of the Cornish coastline in
turns 100 this year with a bespoke
England. The new Eliot collection of
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masculine work items includes laptop
Centenary Edition Vanquish. The limited edition set (100 cars worldwide) is
and document cases that are finished
marked by painstaking detailing: from a
with polished silver brass hardware
unique graduated silver-paint finish to
that add a contemporary edge to the
solid sterling silver wings badges, and
soft leather and smooth lines. Full
on the interior a sumptuous Deep Soft
of the fresh colours of the seashore
black leather (until now exclusive to
including sky blue and dove grey, these
the rare One-77) with contrasting silver
pieces are elegant, everyday additions
stitching and individually numbered sill
to a stylish working wardrobe.
plaques.
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THE INSIDER An expert view of timeless elegance from the man who spans style in the East and West, Mark Cho Mark Cho is co-founder of Hong Kong style emporium The Armoury and coowner of Clifford Street boutique, Drake’s London, founded in 1977, and one of the last manufacturers still producing quality men’s accessories in London.
Another item easily overlooked is the umbrella. Britain has the best umbrella maker in the world: Fox. Built in solid, walking stick-style, showing off the wood’s grain, these have a satisfying feel, and are lovely to own.
The ‘British Gent’ not only represents manners, refinement and generally proper deportment, it also represents a confidence, adaptability and unflappability that I think is more relevant today than ever before.
I have been fortunate to work with a number of especially stylish people including the founder of Drake’s, Michael Drake, and his right-hand man, Michael Hill. Both express style using colour creatively and confidently but never as a gimmick.
British style reflects this attitude, emphasising a comfortable elegance sprinkled with tradition and quirk. As a starting point you can never go wrong with a well-edited wardrobe of well-cut navy and charcoal suits, navy and tweed blazers and grey trousers or chinos paired with colourful, interesting accessories. Being able to rely on flattering staples makes it easier for a man to go out into the world and perform great deeds.
Being stylish is as much about daring as it is about being disciplined in your aesthetic. This is a lesson my father – a truly stylish man and whose ties I still wear – taught me. I think when you enjoy your clothes; it is easy to get carried away. As I spent more time with the Michaels and others, I really came around to their way of thinking: classic British style is the root of men’s style.
While the world has become obsessed with flash and novelty, I find much can be learnt from understanding why certain traditions have remained. The ‘jacket and tie’ style has been with
me since school in London. Progressing to suits, and being a little nerdy, I went to the library to research British style – a fascination ever since. Some items in a man’s wardrobe only get better with age. My first Edward Green shoes for example: a bit stiff needing effort to break in at the expense of initial comfort but gaining a shoe that lasts a lifetime. Engaging with garments like this enriches ones appreciation of them.
Should you have any questions for Mark about what to where and when, please contact mark@kingdomwealth.co.uk
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Flawless balance, fluid lines and impeccable proportions define John Lobb comfort and elegance.
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John Lobb johnlobb.com William II Double Buckle
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COLUMN
SIR PAUL SMITH As Sir Paul Smith opens new stores in China, the British fashion designer explains what British style means to him
SIr Paul Smith, flanked by two looks from the Paul Smith autumn/winter 2013, reflecting an unmistakeable British style
British style is very different from Italian, French or American style. It is defined by our national character – which is a mixture of understatement and individuality. When you apply this philosophy to clothing, you get an interesting blend – of the traditional with the modern, of the conservative with the fashionable. Paul Smith is all ab out that mix – it’s very much about my love of tradition and craftsmanship, but given a new twist. I was trained by a military tailor who worked on Savile Row, the famous street in London that really developed the idea of suits for men through making clothes for the military from about two hundred years ago, before dressing everyone from Lord Nelson and Winston Churchill to Prince Charles and Jude Law. There is a Savile Row style – the use of horsehair canvassing inside a jacket, the armhole and sleeve cut shallow and slim to create an elegant silhouette, a general cut and construction that makes you look tall and upright. You can see the military DNA: these suits make you look like an officer and a gentleman. But at Paul Smith we take all this and
These are clothes for people who enjoy our peculiar British spirit combine it with modern fabrics in unusual patterns and colours – mohair, lightweight wools, contemporary blends and stiff cloths with a distinctive look. The trick is to combine the classic with the unexpected. People who love modern British style still want to look like gentlemen, but they also want to look modern. They want to open their jacket and find a polka-dot lining, or know that their trousers have fluorescent orange pockets at the back that you only see when they sit down. They want a special stripe on a suit or an unusual pattern on a pair of socks. It’s that mix that defines Paul Smith style.
clothes are very wearable, but you know when you’re wearing them that there’s something special there – this detail, this pocket, this contrasting colour. A reversible Mackintosh with completely waterproof welded seams can go from an anonymous taupe to a bright blue in seconds; a classic brogue has a thick rubber sole and four layers of colour applied so that a hint of bright green just grins through where it has been hand-burnished. These are clothes for people who enjoy our peculiar British spirit – men and women who are confident enough to be themselves, confident enough to not wear a uniform o r n e e d a l o g o . M a yb e i t ’ s t o d o w i t h understatement? Or a love of etiquette? We don’t like to show off. We don’t like to shout about what we are wearing. But we do like to feel special and different. If you dress in contemporary British style, you’re not trying to turn any heads. Not at first glance anyway. :PY 7H\S :TP[O VWLUZ OPZ UL^ Z[VYL PU *OPUH PU )LPQPUN Z :HUSP[\U
For the people who wear this type of thing, there is a lovely sense of fun in getting dressed. It’s not fashion in an attentionseeking way, and it’s not confrontational. The
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05.02.13 12:11
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RELAXATION
CLUB RULES Gentlemen’s clubs are a quintessential yet secret British tradition. Here, John Arlidge reveals some of the finest examples in London
Private members’ establishments offer superb entertainment in opulent settings
In St James’s and Mayfair sit London’s grandest buildings, all fluted columns, oak doors and cornices. They have no name-plates because, if you have to ask, you’ll never make it over the threshold. They are the private members’ clubs of London. Maybe you know the names. Annabel’s. Crockfords. Aspinalls. Alfred’s. 5 Hertford Street. The Arts Club. Morton’s. Although they are members-only, in special circumstances some visitors to London can enjoy temporary membership. But where to go?
not the hippest, perhaps, but it is the most fun, the most exclusive and the most expensive.’
Although the clubs are members-only, most visitors to London can enjoy temporary membership during their stay. Savile Row-clad shoulders.
The newest club is 5 Hertford Street, run by a true blueblood of clubland. Robin Birley is the son of Lady Annabel Vane-Tempest-Stewart and Mark Birley, creator of Annabel’s, Mark’s Club, George, and Harry’s Bar. 5 Hertford Street is a modern take on the traditional Mayfair club, complete with cigar shop, screening room and nightclub underpinned by quintessentially English country house ambience and modern British food.
London’s high society regard Annabel’s in Berkeley Square as the last word in British good taste – not least for its exceptional service. Historically, it has been the playground of old money. It is the only nightclub the Queen has ever felt comfortable enough to visit. It is there that Jacqueline Kennedy once danced with Aristotle Onassis. It has a raffish element, too. Greek socialite Taki once challenged Muhammad Ali to a fight.
For those who like their clubs branded, Johann Rupert, boss of luxury goods conglomerate, Richemont, can often be found puffing a Cohiba at Alfred’s. Dunhill has transformed the Duke of Westminster’s old Berkeley Square lair into one of Dunhill’s super-luxe private ‘homes’, where the real aristocracy and the aristocracy of entertainment and business rub
Recently, as new money has moved into Mayfair — W1 has more hedge funds than anywhere in Europe — the aristocrats have found themselves sharing the dance floor with a more international – and wealthy – crowd. As one hedge-fund manager puts it, ‘Mayfair and Annabel’s are now the United Nations of high net worth and refinement. Annabel’s is 10
Crockfords has a grand sense of tradition, as befits the Georgian townhouse it occupies, but takes a modern approach to entertainment. Members enjoy modern gaming in the style to which many Asian afficianados are accustomed - no coincidence as it is owned by Malaysian company Genting which, with casinos and resorts throughout Asia, is becoming a world leader in gaming. Crockfords also offers some of the finest Chinese food in Mayfair. Entering Aspinalls is like walking into the private home of an English gentleman. Now owned by Australia’s Crown group, manager of resorts and casinos, it is importing much of the style that appeals so much to Asian guests. It has two Chinese chefs, one serving Cantonese cuisine and the other Szechuan. Mandarin is widely spoken. One final word. Expect the unexpected. The Duke of Edinburgh, patron of the Arts Club, was recently serenaded by its creative director, actress Gwyneth Paltrow. One of the songs she sang was ‘Forget You’ by Cee Lo Green, but she sang the original expletivefilled version, asking the Duke: ‘Don’t tell the Queen!’ The Duke confessed that he’d ‘rather enjoyed the language’.
始于年，为国际名流提供高雅休闲娱乐服务 今日的Crockfords源自William Crockford先生成立于年的私人会所。他的初衷与愿景是为皇 室和名门望族创立一个高雅华贵的社交场所。
s 华语服务员
私人包间 提供机场接机服务
古典华贵、舒适雅致 中华美食
坐落于Mayfair，交通便利 小时营业
#URZON 3TREET s -AYFAIR s ,ONDON s () www.crockfords.com
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WATCHES
THE TEMPLE OF TIME Marcus is a store like no other, made by a man like no other. In the heart of Bond Street and flanked by the world’s biggest luxury brands, it is run with a passionate flair for independence that could only come from the inimitable watch industry legend that is Marcus Margulies.
Celebrating 50 years in the timepiece market, Marcus is the epitome of excellent service and exemplary stock
Margulies is anything but ordinary and his store is one of the most handsome (and well-stocked) watch boutiques in the world, complete with home theatre, fine dining and an impressive wine cellar. The roll call of exclusive fine watch manufactures range from venerable Swiss classics such as GirardPerregaux, Audemars Piguet and Piaget to recent but revered brands including MB&F, Greubel Forsey, and Richard Mille. Entering the dramatic steel and glass palace, a personal encounter with Margulies is as much of a treat as the thrill of the purchase. His enthusiasm is infectious: ‘I’m crazy about watches, about music and about food and wine. I either like something or I don’t, there is no middle way.’ It is Margulies’ idiosyncratic approach to what he loves that makes this temple of time such a rarity. Margulies is famed for his uncanny ability to predict which brands will make it big (he was an early supporter of both Franck Muller and Richard Mille) – he cherishes watch brands that offer something unique. For Marcus, variety is the spice of life: about single-brand collectors, he says, ‘It’s like a woman who only
wears Chanel, or people who only drink claret. It’s nonsense. You don’t know what’s good unless you’ve tried it all.’
London, and few places in the world, where a watch devotee can find all these brands under one roof.
Apart from an outstanding diversity of stock, Marcus — the man, and the boutique — excels in customer service: quintessential British manners run though every interaction. ‘I opened up the shop because I was sick of bad service,’ he says. ‘I wanted to open a shop where people could have a really pleasurable experience and could hear honest advice.’
His refined understanding of his customers is because he himself is also one. The shopfront is essentially an extension of his own collection and with refreshing candour he states, ‘You have to live luxury to be able to sell luxury’. This is a man who refuses to settle for second-best, and this connoisseurship chimes with customers: ‘Our customers are wealthy and appreciate what is good,’ he says. ‘We don’t deal with idiots who buy on price or advertisements. A true aficionado will only ever buy from us. Nobody else has the stock!’
Last year Margulies celebrated 50 years in the watch industry, and with the store he has become a hero for boutique watch brands and collectors. There is simply nowhere else in
You have to live luxury to sell luxury
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Margulies has created something unparalleled. In a world where corporates own many once niche brands, Marcus stands independent. As he says, ‘The world has changed, you don’t know where you are today. If you go to Shanghai, London or New York, the main streets are populated with the same brands.’ With decades of intimate knowledge, paired with incredible time machines, and the most refined shopping environment in London, Marcus is a true one-off.
Kelim scarf photographed by Trevor Appleson
精致英伦男士配饰 No.3 Clifford Street, W1S 2LF, London www.drakes-lond on.com
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PUBLISHER’S CHOICE
THE GUIDE:
SAVILE ROW The modern suit is an evolution of court and military dress, developed in 19th century Britain. The home of the suit since 1750 is Savile Row. I’m passionate about Britain’s heritage industries: their values are reflected beautifully in Savile Row. Below are a few of my favourite houses on the Row. Why should I buy a Savile Row suit? Stealth wealth – more subtle than monograms, nothing says you’ve made it more clearly to those in the know than an immaculately cut suit. Joining an exclusive club – for centuries, and from Michael Jackson to Gorbachev, in business, politics and entertainment, notable men have formed a personal relationship with the Row. A younger, athletic silhouette – quality tailoring flatters your body while being 100% comfortable. Exceptional quality and advice from craftsmen with decades’ experience Terminology you will find useful: ‘Bespoke’: custom-made from a pattern made to your measurements – expensive and time consuming but the best way to get a perfect fit. ‘Made to measure’: a pre-made pattern is modified to fit the customer.
Publisher Charlie Barda
Useful facts: WHERE? Between Bond and Regent Street (2 minutes), Oxford Circus station (5 minutes), also see neighbouring Clifford Street, Old Burlington Street and Sackville Street. WHAT’S THE PROCESS? Meet the tailor; select your materials and style; take your measurements; identify completion date. CHOICES? Purpose (party, work, wedding); single or double ‘breasted’; braces/belt/side adjusters; how many pairs of trousers (they wear out more quickly than the jacket: get two pairs!). Your tailor can advise. HOW LONG? Bespoke: up to 8 weeks; made to measure: 4–6 weeks. CAN I ORDER IN CHINA? Most tailors visit clients internationally (US, Europe, Asia) WHERE MADE? Typically on site with British materials.
DEGE & SKINNER 10 Savile Row, London W1S 3PF; dege-skinner.co.uk D&S (est. 1865), one of the Row’s two family-owned houses, is currently overseen by the second and third generation. Along with three Royal Warrants, the house dresses several of the queen’s grandchildren: from Zara Phillips’ riding attire to Princes William and Harry’s suits. The house prides itself on the craft: the Chairman celebrates his 60th anniversary as Master Cutter; while at the grass roots there are four apprentices, including one of the Row’s growing number of female tailors. (bespoke only, from £3,500).
HENRY POOLE 15 Savile Row, London W1S 3PJ henrypoole.com Henry Poole, established 1806, and perhaps the Row’s most famous, is currently overseen by the sixth and seventh generations. Having cut suits for world figures from Charles Dickens to Tsar Alexander II, Poole now sees growing Chinese interest, with shops in Beijing and Hangzhou. Despite initial surprise at the time (8-12 weeks), cost (£POA) and client involvement required, Chinese clients are satisfied, especially as confidence grows in being advised by the tailor. 14
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PUBLISHER’S CHOICE
WELSH & JEFFERIES 20 Savile Row, London W1S 3PR; welshandjefferies.com
GIEVES & HAWKES
Assisting MD Jim Cottrell, a Row veteran for 45 years, Yingmei is the Row’s only Chinese cutter. After Central St Martins, She undertook a 10 year apprenticeship, before winning the 2011 Golden Shears. Her special insight for body-shy Chinese? A good suit ‘creates’ a younger shape! Fatter bodies need fewer buttons fastened lower; avoid branded belts for side adjusters; navy is more flexible than typical Chinese black. (2 piece from £3,500, cashmere overcoat – £4,500.)
DAVIES & SON
1 Savile Row, London W1S 3JR; gievesandhawkes.com
38 Savile Row, London W1S 3QE; daviesandsonsavilerow.com
Founded in 1771 with a military focus, since 1804 G&H has dressed every reigning British monarch - more recently David Beckham and Bill Clinton. The company’s elegant ready-towear collections include seasonal fabrics such as superfine wool for summer and luxurious cashmeres for winter. However, at its heart is bespoke, made on site (fully bespoke 2 piece from £4,500). A faster ‘Private Tailoring’ service will laser-cut to customers measurements, and deliver globally within 4–6 weeks (from £1,200).
Davies & Son (est. 1803) is the Row’s oldest house, catering from the outset to Europe’s kings while more recent customers include Calvin Klein, and the Duke of Edinburgh. MD Alan Bennett sums up his philosophy as “a stylish but traditional English cut, flattering the figure.” Starting with taking 21 measurements, a paper pattern is cut to model the cloth for a perfect fit using only the finest cloths. Appointments can be arranged anywhere in the world (min. order £20,000). 2-piece suit from £3,700.
ANDERSON & SHEPPARD 32 Old Burlington Street, London W1S 3AT; anderson-sheppard.co.uk
RICHARD JAMES 29 Savile Row, London W1S 2EY; richardjames.co.uk
Described by Tom Ford as “the world’s best tailor”, A&S (est. 1906) became known for the ‘English Drape’, the less constructed style developed by Row legend Frederick Scholte. A favourite of Prince Charles, bespoke is central to A&S (2 piece suit from £3,750). A separate, ready to wear space, more like an elegant home complete with fireplace offers a wide range of weekend trousers (made to measure in one day from £350), subtly colourful ties (from £40) and other accessories such as umbrellas (£195).
Richard James, hailed as key to the bespoke revival, and a BFC Designer Of The Year, is now considered “new establishment”. Adhering to the finest traditions of fully bespoke, but with an extensive ready to wear range RJ caters to a more fashion conscious crowd, attracting celebrities from David Beckham to P Diddy (it’s said David Cameron get his suits here!) The look is slim and modern in subtly eye-catching materials, typically 1-2 button, single-breasted. 2-piece suit from £3,100.
PAUL SMITH 122 Kensington Park Rd, London W11 2EP; paulsmith.co.uk A curious addition to this Savile Row piece as Paul Smith’s tailors are based in Westbourne Grove – a West London home to many top brands. Nevertheless, the firm adheres to the Row’s traditions, winning fans especially in entertainment such as Daniel Day Lewis. Westbourne House is a holisitic Paul Smith experience in a townhouse, where tailors offer a range of cloths from top British makers, alongside the brand’s core range of individualistic ready to wear. (Bespoke £2,500).
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ACCESSORIES
QUIETLY CLASSIC, PERENNIALLY CHIC Photography ANDY BARTER Styling DAVID HAWKINS Styling Assistants GEMMA CARMICHAEL and CHARLOTTE ALEXANDER
ABOVE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT
Red tartan scarf, £175, by +YHRL Z 3VUKVU; light brown card holder, £60, by 9PJOHYK (UKLYZVU; brown iPad cover, £375, by >PSSPHT :VU; crocodile belt, £195, by /HYK` (TPLZ; classic Panama hat, £225, by 1HTLZ 3VJR; patterned dark brown wallet, £75, by :PTVU *HY[LY; blue wallet/clutch, £375, by :T`[OZVU RIGHT, FROM TOP, LEFT TO RIGHT
Blue with red striped shirt, £110, by /PSKP[JO 2L`, coloured cufflink, £70, by 9PJOHYK 1HTLZ 4H`MHPY; pink small houndstooth shirt, £89.50, by +LNL :RPUULY, blue disk cufflink, £1,500, by 3VUNTPYL. Lilac striped shirt, £145, by )\KK, black and silver cufflink, £150, by .PL]LZ /H^RLZ; blue and white striped shirt, £220, by ,TTH >PSSPZ; oval red and navy cufflink, £90, by /LUY` 7VVSL.Thick navy striped shirt, £145, by ;\YUI\SS (ZZLY, round brown cufflink, £90, by 9PJOHYK (UKLYZVU; light pink salmon shirt, £89.50, by +LNL :RPUULY, pearl and blue button cufflink, £135, by ;\YUI\SS (ZZLY
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ACCESSORIES
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SHOEMAKING
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SHOEMAKING
BEST FOOT FORWARD It’s where Prince Charles and James Bond get their shoes, but why is Northampton the spiritual home of luxury men’s footwear? asks Simon de Burton
Having travelled the world – London, Australia, Paris – for over a century, John Lobb found that the perfect base was the home of traditional shoemaking techniques: Northampton in the English Midlands
British craftsmanship has enjoyed a significant revival of late as international demand grows for a variety of objects created on what one of our greatest exports, William Shakespeare, famously called ‘this sceptred isle’. Cars, motorcycles, tailoring, whisky even watches. Nowadays, a genuine claim to be ‘made in Britain’ once more has kudos. We have, of course, always enjoyed a reputation for making things with a serious purpose, that endure and, ideally, that demonstrate real pride of workmanship. And what meets all those criteria better than almost anything? The answer is a hand-made shoe, as much a symbol of Britishness as the bowler hat, the Morgan car, and Savile Row. It might not come as a surprise, then, to learn that the English town of Northampton was once Europe’s shoemaking capital, boasting a staggering 2,000 individual bootmakers by the late19th century. Benefitting from a central position in the country and 11 rivers supplying water for tanning, the town became a centre of military boot making, with demand initially soaring due to the Napoleonic Wars at the turn of the 19th century. A century later, however, and a combination of machine-made shoes and cheap foreign imports started to impact Northampton’s importance as a cobbling centre and now only
where the tradition and skills already existed.’
Daniel Craig wrote, ‘Your shoes fit as beautifully as ever’ a few great English names remain, notably Crockett & Jones, Edward Green, Church’s, Cheaney, Barker and Grenson. Perhaps the greatest of all, however, is John Lobb, founded in the mid-19th century. The original John Lobb was a farmer’s son from Cornwall who travelled to London and became apprenticed to a legendary shoemaker known simply as Tomas. After a period shoeing gold prospectors in Australia, he set up in London in 1866, and was soon appointed bootmaker to the Prince of Wales, enjoying a level of success that enabled him then to open a Paris atelier in 1902. Oddly, it is through this Paris connection that John Lobb came to be making shoes in Northampton. The firm’s CEO, Renaud PaulDauphin, explains. ‘The Parisian workshop was purchased by Hermès in 1976 as a low volume maker of bespoke shoes, but during the early Eighties we established a ready-to-wear line and it seemed obvious to go to Northampton for this, 19
The firm continues to make around 500 pairs of its EUR4,200 bespoke shoes in Paris, but most people’s entrĂŠe to the legendary John Lobb name comes through buying ready-to-wear from one of its 21 stores around the globe. ‘We established our factory in Northampton in 1993, but demand has increased dramatically in recent years to the point that we are now producing around 40,000 pairs a year and that means we have had to expand the building,’ says Paul-Dauphin. ‘The product, however, remains very much handmade in the traditional way, using the Goodyear welt meaning the shoes can always be re-soled. ‘A true luxury product is one that you want to keep forever and have repaired: a John Lobb shoe fulfills that. One of the finest compliments we have had came from Daniel Craig whom we gifted a pair of Becketts Oxfords for the premiere of Quantum of Solace. He wrote a wonderful thank-you note simply saying, “Your shoes fit as beautifully as ever.â€? ‘I think that perfectly sums up what we strive to achieve.’ 1VOU 3VII YLHK` [V ^LHY MYVT HYV\UK p *\Z[VTPZH[PVU VW[PVUZ Z\JO HZ SLH[OLY JVSV\Y HUK ĂŠUPZO H]HPSHISL MVY HU HKKP[PVUHS ;OL H\[OVY ^YP[LZ ^PKLS` VU S\_\Y` PUJS\KPUN MVY ;OL ;LSLNYHWO /V^ [V :WLUK 0[ HUK .8
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DIRECTORY
THE DIRECTORY:
MAYFAIR & ST JAMES’ From fine restaurants and private clubs, to shops for elegant hobbies, this historic area of London offers some of the finest opportunities for business, entertainment and browsing – whether you are looking for clothing, shoes, fine art or even guns and yachts! The area is also known as the home of Britain’s centuries old shirt- and shoe-making traditions. Indeed, Jermyn Street is to shirts what Savile Row is to suits – the spiritual home of the world’s best. Offering bespoke and ready to wear, you are sure to find something for every occasion here. As with Savile Row explain the event that you’re buying for and allow the shop to recommend.
EVERYTHING IS POSSIBLE – THE BESPOKE PROCESS As with Savile Row’s suits, many other items in a gentleman’s wardrobe can be customised to his exact standards. Shirts Typically an order (minimum 6 shirts) starts with one sample to be worn and washed several times to let the fibres settle. Then with any amendments made, the rest of the order is prepared (c.8 weeks). Shoes While for a small fee, small tweaks can be made (stitch colour etc.), fully bespoke is a different beast: costing around £3,000 these will be crafted over 8 months starting with a wooden ‘last’ (model of the client’s foot) being hand-carved.
SHOES CHURCH’S
FOSTER & SON
110 Jermyn St, SW1Y 6EE; church-footwear.com
83 Jermyn St, SW1Y 6JD; foster.co.uk
Established in London in 1921, and 100% Northampton made, Church’s has stores globally, including Asia. Alongside classics such as the London half brogue (£285) and Hertford loafer (£365), check out the hip, distressed Shanghai range (£560). The ladies’ range includes Felicia – with the British flag in the lining!
Fosters , established 1840 and still privately owned, has a private club feel. Ready-to-wear ranges from classics to the raffish tassled St James (£425) and even includes golf shoes (£550)! Premium leathers used in the Cavendish (£725), prompt fans to claim decades of use. Bespoke shoes (from £2,850) take 8 months and are made on-site.
JOHN LOBB
EDWARD GREEN
88 Jermyn Street, SW1Y 6JD; johnlobb.com
75 Jermyn St, SW1Y 6NP; edwardgreen.com
Established1866, Lobb offers exceptional quality with a considered balance of modern and traditional style: try the double buckled William (invented by Lobb) (£680), or the chestnut suede Jermyn (£940), the buckle elegantly slung back to the ankle. Customise your Lobbs, from stitch colour to choice of leather (additional fees apply).
Supplying stars such as Ernest Hemingway, and British Army officers, Edward Green, established 1890, remains exceptional. The store, simply elegant, has a range of classics and softer, colourful weekend shoes. Try the Chelsea (£660) or the Dover (hand-sewn with Chinese boar bristle!) (£750). Customisation options from £150. 20
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DIRECTORY
SHIRTS
ACCESSORIES
EMMA WILLIS
LONGMIRE
66 Jermyn Street, SW1Y 6NY; emmawillis.com
12 Bury St, SW1Y 6AB; longmire.co.uk
Since 1999 Willis has brought a more modern design to Jermyn Street though maintaining traditional, hand made techniques in historic Gloucester. Here are delicately patterned shirts in fine Swiss cotton matched with subtle, pastel coloured ties. Ready to wear from £190, bespoke from £240. Also try floral party shirts (£220).
Longmire is an unusual jeweller – only selling cufflinks! The ideal gift or accompaniment to your Jermyn Street shirt, try basics such as mother of pearl and steel (£90), but quirky designs in luxurious metals are Longmire’s forte: try solid gold ‘knots’ (£3,900); or a gold/ruby bull’s head if you are ‘year of the bull’! (POA). Bespoke available.
HARVIE & HUDSON
LOCK & CO
77 Jermyn St, SW1Y 6NP; harvieandhudson.com
6 St James’s St, SW1A 1EF; lockhatters.co.uk
In its 4th generation of family ownership since 1949 H&H is redolent of classic outfitters forced out by big business. Try bolder checks and stripes (from £64.50), elegant nightwear including padded silk robes (£325) and bespoke, made on site (from £195).
This historic shop (from 1676) is an experience in itself. Lock will advise on the correct hat for different events (such as weddings). As well as highly styled ladies’ hats, the men’s range includes Churchill’s favourite felt Homburg (£255) and summer’s straw Panama (£155). See also the ‘fashion’ range ‘Lock & Roll’!
HILDITCH & KEY
DRAKE’S LONDON
73 Jermyn Street, SW1Y6NP; hilditchandkey.co.uk
3 Clifford Street, W1S 2LF; drakes-london.com
Since 1899, H&K has been known for bold stripes and colours. Try classics in slim or standard fit (from £95), or silky ‘Sea Island cotton’ (£130). Custom made shirts (for example Karl Largerfeld’s high collared white shirts) allow individual touches such as initials engraved on buttons.
Established 1977 as a scarf manufacturer, the Clifford St shop, co-owned by Mark Cho now offers a range of accessories to enliven a gent’s look. Alongside ties (£95) (bespoke – £155) and scarves (from £145) – great gifts – try youthful knits such as the Cashmere Shawl Collar Cardigan (£695) or polo shirts co-designed with British brand, Fred Perry (£80).
WINE
WILLIAM & SON
BERRY BROTHERS & RUDD
10 Mount Street, W1K 2TY; williamandson.com
3 St James’ St, SW1A 1EG; bbr.com
In luxury for generations, the Asprey family embody W&S’s values: innovative, UK-made, exceptional quality. A range catering to men and women, the home and gifts includes a stunning attaché case (£2,300); watches ranging from H Moser to Breguet; and fabulous women’s jewellery – even sporting guns! Everything is customisable.
Though founded in 1698, BBR is totally modern with sophisticated online services and 10% of revenue derived overseas (including via a Hong Kong office). It also offers wine investment services (from £5,000). Try a guided tasting, complete with food in BBR’s stylish cellars. 21
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GREAT BRITISH DESIGN ICON
NOBLE HERITAGE:
BURBERRY TRENCH Burberry is as much classic, signifying tradition, sartorial elegance and quintessential British-ness, as it is a marker of contemporary cool, writes GQ’s Bill Prince. Who else would have been bold enough to employ a 10-year-old Romeo Beckham to star in its campaign? Photographer Phill Taylor; Art director Jon Morgan; Styling Catriona Stirling; Grooming Maki Tanaka; Photographer’s assistant Nick George; Model Simonas Pham at Elite Model Management
Burberry’s heritage defines everything that it is today but it all started with ‘The Trench’. CEO of the company, Angela Ahrendts, says, ‘As a brand that is 156 years old today and that was born from a trench coat, China specifically responds to the authenticity and heritage of Burberry.’ World War I created an urgent need for a waterproofed topcoat to survive the downpours that would otherwise sink both the spirit and the sodden clothes of a battalion. Thomas Burberry, a gentlemen’s outfitter in Basingstoke, patented gabardine, a tightly woven fabric of cotton or wool that lent itself to light, windproof, and most important of all, breathable outerwear. Swiftly nicknamed the ‘Trench’, and originally worn by British officers in the field, his contribution became a military-inspired piece that has gone on to define our times. Other military-inspired elements included epaulettes to carry insignia, D rings for grenades or side arms, tightly fastening cuffs and the characteristic storm flap – the latter
designed to soften the impact of a rifle butt but, when fastened across the chest, improved impermeability. Together, these functional features have come to epitomise this robust sartorial classic of a gentleman’s wardrobe. Beloved of film stars on- and off-screen and a socially adept uniform appealing to everyone from royalty to rock stars, the Trench has artfully mimicked its era: loose and flowing in the Forties and Fifties, more fitted and 'fashion-forward' in the Sixties and Seventies. Today, Burberry’s Chief Creative Officer, Christopher Bailey, regularly cites the brand’s heritage as key to its success as a global fashion brand – with the hallowed ‘Trench’ at its heart. In 2009, he launched ‘Art of the Trench’, an interactive channel on the brand’s website allowing fans to upload images of themselves wearing the trench. These images show there is not one specific ‘Trench’ wearer. From the hipster wearing his with jeans, to the businessman donning it over a pinstriped 22
suit, it fits all areas. ‘It’s for fashion guys but it can also be traditional,’ explains Bailey. ‘It can be city or country. And that becomes the philosophy of everything we do.’ Luxury isn’t luxurious if everyone has it so, building on its innovative digital offer, Burberry now allows male and female online shoppers to select every detail of their trench online, creating a one-of-a-kind item. The ‘Bespoke Trench’ is assembled on-screen as the customer selects their style (seven for men, nine for women), including linings, collars and sleeves: almost eight million possible combinations in total. The real-life version arrives in four to six weeks from Burberry's factory in Yorkshire with a unique name-tag. ‘Technology is an intrinsic part of people's lives,’ says Bailey, ‘All we've done is to weave technology into the fabric of the company.’ )LZWVRL HWWVPU[TLU[Z H[ 9LNLU[ :[YLL[ I` HYYHUNLTLU[ I\YILYY` JVT 6Y JYHM[ `V\YZ VUSPUL \ZPUN [OL PUUV]H[P]L )\YILYY` )LZWVRL ^LIZP[L )LZWVRL MYVT *5@ [V HYV\UK *5@ 6MM [OL YHJR JVSSLJ[PVUZ *5@
18 0 9 lo n do n I BeI jI n g I S h an gh a I I Ta Ip eI I ho n g Ko n g
www.gievesandhawkes.com