Bold Magazine - Issue 1 - The Global Issue by BOLD MAGAZINE

BOLD THE GLOBAL ISSUE

ISSUE

ONE

MAR

2012

Who is BOLD? Bold Magazine seeks the new but appreciates the present. Everywhere we look, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re overwhelmed by visuals, sounds and advertisements. Digging beyond the distractions of this generation, Bold strives to answer the questions people have forgotten to ask. Within this globalisation issue we critically consider the changing world of fashion, music, art, film and love. We donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t pretend to have all the answers but weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re here to get the conversation started. BE BOLD

Rykesha Hudson- Editor

Tajha Myer-Ferreira- Fronts Editor Cleide Cardoso- Deputy Editor

Sabien Flint- Page Designer

Tanika Cato- Fronts Editor

Jade Scott

Sheena Thacker

Contributors

Willa Culpepper

Mary Oluwawo

Laura Silman

Contents

FRONT

FEATURES

De Panzazo! Mexican film on failing education system; London Paris New York: Bollywood rom-com; Alternative Eurovision; Barbican gets urban classical; Zarina Bhimiji exhibition; Hip Hop Shakespeare; K-pop explosion; Pop up social commerce; Five of the globe’s best graphic novels; Bestsellers from the Far East.

Fashion takes Flight: fashion house’s global expansion; Music of the Motherland: the rise of Afrobeats in London Home or Away: graduates going abroad; Turning Japanese: what the West loves about Asian culture; Only Skin Deep: how the beauty industry is cashing in on racial insecurities; Love Actually: arranged marriages; Digital Music Stars: musicians using the web to get recognised; The Changing Face of Britain: cultural identity now; The Incessant Fear of Missing Out; The Battle for the Big Screen: the whitewashing of WWII cinema

BACK

Bubbleology: bubble tea comes to Britain; Top 5 Strangest Foods Known to Man: the world’s delicacies; Kua- Aina: Hawaiian fast food restaurant

COLUMNS, INTERVIEWS & REVIEWS Copy and Paste Fashion: Bronwyn Cosgrave talks about individuality in style; Near & Elsewhere explores globalisation; Made in China: the exportation of hair extensions; Shade Wars: limited makeup range for darker skin; Speak Easy: Explore Japan without leaving you room; Eastern Promise: changes in British-Asian film; The Artist: Shakka, London’s soulful sound of the underground; X-rated: is reality TV the new bloodsport; Culture Vultures: Cultural appropriation vs. cultural appreciation

de panzazo A documentary showing the harsh reality of the Mexican education system is opening in 18 Mexican cities this month. De Panzazo! meaning ‘Barely Passing’ which will be hitting the Mexican screens from the 24 February has been described by directors’ Juan Carlos Rulfo and Carlos Loret de Mola as giving a voice to the people. The film which blames the failure of Mexican schools on teacher’s unions and government officials shows Mexican teenagers from public and private schools giving wrong answers to simple math problems. The documentary reveals shocking statistics that more than a half of Mexicans in public and private schools aged 14 and 15 lack basic math skills that they should have learnt from primary education.

LONDON PARIS NEW YORK Alternative Eurovision This refreshing Bollywood film marks the writing and directing debut of Anu Menon. If acting wasn’t enough, male lead, Ali Zafar has also composed all the music for the future hit. Nikhil is from Mumbai. He’s rich, handsome and studying filmmaking in London. Lalitha is a middle class south Indian girl who is on her way to New York to study politics after receiving a full scholarship grant.The pair could not be more different but when fate brings them both to London they are drawn together. London Paris New York follows their journey of love as they meet in three of the most romantic cities in the world- London, Paris and New York for a night in each city over an eight year span. The film is a coming of age love story mirroring three states of love (London, Paris, New York) bringing back the wit into Bollywood’s cheesy but romantic comedies.

After sell out shows in 2011, the critically acclaimed E4 Udderbelly Festival institution is back for another season. Forget about watching the Eurovision on the TV with your nan, if you’re looking for a wonderful twisted array of camp, flamboyant and outrageous acts then the Alternative Eurovision in association with Time Out is the show for you. Held at the trendy London Southbank Centre, this alternative cabaret show celebrates talented acts as they perform their own version of Eurovision classics. There’ll be something for everyone who loves the kitschiest shows on the planet. The one-off performance will be on May 25 at 10:45pm.

Showing at Vue cinemas from March 2nd.

Tajha Myer-Ferreira

Rykesha Hudson

Yayoi kusama at the tate

urban classical

Legendary Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama graces the Tate Modern with an exhibition that spans her prolific nine decade career. The gallery is an intimate look into the works of the High Priestess of Polka Dots. Polka Dots, recently adopted by artist Damien Hurst, is a motif she has mastered to express obsessiveness. Kusama has lived voluntarily in a psychiatric institution since 1977, her obsessiveness and willing to escape psychological trauma pours out in her work. Kusama often switches up her medium of expression; her works vary from her meticulous Infinity Net paintings and drawings, hand-stitched sculptures, films and performance that flicker and loop and immersive installations that pull you into her mind. It begins with a young Kusama in rural Japan with her parents; dark and troubled paintings that echo remnants of post WW2 sorrow, the gallery then journeys into her experimental twenties with acid trip videos and obsessive compulsive detail, right through to her emphatic triumph over her obsessiveness with vibrant, exotic colours and finally the incredible Infinitely Mirrored Space.

The Urban Classic concert celebrating the Barbicans 30th Birthday and diversity in musical cultures is definitely one not to be missed. Starring the likes of British artists: Ms Dynamite, N-Dubzâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Fazer, Devlin and Skepta in association with Bigga Fish and Serious. Produced by the Barbican and BBC Symphony Orchestra the arrangements feature top hits and new material from each artist as well as collaborations from the four. The Urban Classic concert takes place on Saturday March 2012 at 7.30pm and has been described by the conductor, Jules Buckley as: â&#x20AC;&#x153;bound to be a highlight of 2012â&#x20AC;?. As part of the nationwide live music event across the UK, the Urban Classic concert is the first countdown to London 2012 festival. Music Nation aims to engage as many people as possible in orchestra and music from different genres. On the 3 and 4 of March, the Barbican event compromises a free weekend of art, dance, music theatre and film for all ages with an urban twist.

For more informationvisit: www.tate.org.uk/modern/exhibitions Sabien Flint

For more information visit: www.barbican.org

Tanika Cato

Zarina Bhimji Exhibition Catch the premiere of Ugandan-born British Photographer Zarina Bhimji’s long awaited film, Yellow Patch, on the untold story of the Indian Ocean trade and migration at the Whitechapel Gallery this month. The exhibition is inspired by the hidden tales of the Indian Ocean trade and immigration routes taken by Asians who fled the Idi Amin regime in East Africa. It is featured alongside Bhimji’s other powerful story works in her first major exhibition since her Turner Prize win in 2007, which showcased up to 25 years of her work. Photographs and large-scale film installations exploring the histories that haunt locations from the Idi Amin era in East Africa to India where her parents came from, the photographers love for distinct details on ruined landscapes and architectures layered with colonial histories is on show. A definite must-see the exhibition includes works as early as She Loved to Breathe-Pure Silence, which tells stories about colonial wars through crumbled ruins of what used to be home to the exile of a community of rape. For more information visit: www.whitechapelgallery.org

Hip-Hop Shakespeare Why not join The Hip-Hop Shakespeare Company for a musical journey exploring one of William Shakespeare’s classics retold in a modern day opera. The London based music theatre company founded by hip-hop artist Akala, (Kingslee Daley) offers young people a chance to perform on stage at the Barbican Theatre on Sunday 4 March 2012. You can expect a day filled with poetry fused with rap, hip hop dance and performance. After rapping about Shakespeare in many songs Akala decided to spread his own love of the poet to young people in a structured manner. By bridging the gap between music, theatre and performing arts the company aims to create the ultimate entertainment experience. The all day free workshop intends to encourage youngsters to develop new skills in performing arts as well as showcase the work of up and coming talent. It’s open to ages 10+ with all levels of experience. For more information visit: www.barbican.org.uk/ www.hiphopshakespeare.com

Tanika Cato

Tajha Myer-Ferreira

K-POP EXPLOSION Move over western pop starlets, the all-conquering K-Pop train has bounded into the New Year energised and poised for world domination. The Korean pop music phenomenon complete with ridiculously infectious melodies, perfectly synchronised choreography and pristinely manicured stars and starlets is promising to collect a new legion of international fans this year. Although boy bands typically reach astronomical heights by stealing the hearts and minds of female buyers- it’s the ladies of K-Pop who are proving that they’re running the order of things. The gunpowder had barely dried from the New Year’s celebrations before some of the genre’s most successful female collectives announced a string of exciting projects for 2012. SNSD, aka Girls Generation, a sassy nine piece girl group similar to the Pussycat Dolls, started the new year with a collaboration in the pipeline with the world’s favourite veteran East coast MC, Snoop Dogg. It is hoped that Snoop Dogg will bring an added cool factor to SNSD’s lead single The Boys giving them extra kudos in the international market. If that wasn’t enough it’s hoped that the girls’ scheduled performances on ‘The Late Show with

David Letterman’ and ABC’s ‘Live! With Kelly’ will not only cement their place in the record books as the first Korean pop act to debut on late night US television but also heighten their cross-over appeal. Not ones to be left behind , The Wonder Girls, an equally famous Korean mega girl group (think Spice Girls fame) are set to star in their very own self titled English language movie which will be shown exclusively on Teen Nick, Nickelodeon’s 24hr youth channel. The girls, who were the first Korean group to ever enter the Billboard Top 100 Charts, will perform exclusive numbers in the dramatised movie charting their attempt to break into the US market. Jade Scott

social commerce pop-up shops Pop-up shops, restaurants and dances have burst onto the scene in the past few years. They are a cheaper solution to year-round space rentals that happen in a short few weeks or months. But as digital rises, the social commerce pop-up has come out as the next big thing. Social commerce pop-ups are a concept where temporary online stores are set up quickly and easily, designed to create buzz around new products or events.Some brands have held well-organized pop-up shops and launch events that engaged consumers and rewarded tastemakers who are ahead of the curve. Hermes created a silk bar in Causeway Bay, Hong Kong that was operated out of a bright orange shipping container and made unique, silk scarves for customers. Arnsdorf, a small fashion brand in Melbourne, opened a store for three days designed by Edwards Moore that was decorated with 154 pairs of tights. Adidas is championing pop-up retail both online and offline; recently they opened six pop-up shops for fans in secret locations in Germany, Austria and Switzerland. They used a camper van, a converted bus and a lorry to notify fans of the location and bestow upon the first fans to arrive exclusive access to its skating gear. As brands look to online for ways to increase revenue, they realize that pop-ups have to be done well in order to add something relevant and of value

to the consumer. F-Commerce (facebook commerce) is the current favourite as companies can create clean, internationalized but hyper-local pages, which allows people to browse and buy from either the page, tab or the news feed. It needn’t be the only option, but as it reduces the already quick and easily installation process of a short pop-up it has proved popular. Social commerce that focuses on social media as a whole, integrated with pop-up retail is the next trend, which will see brands and creatives look to target influencers and tastemakers whose influence will turn them into ambassadors for the brand, helping to start and push conversations both online and offline. Cleide Cardoso

FIVE OF THE GLOBE’S BEST GRAPHIC NOVELS

If you’re looking to travel the world from your armchair then here are some international treasures to discover… SAFE AREA GORAžDE and PALESTINE/ FOOTNOTES IN GAZA by Joe Sacco Whether oral histories of Bosniaks in wartime, or the blurring of witness and participant in occupied territories in Palestine, Sacco combines illustration and journalism to give the reader a view of the people and landscapes beyond the headlines. ABANDON THE OLD IN TOKYO by Yoshihiro Tatsumi A collection of short stories drawn in the 1960s by one of Japan’s comic legends, Abandon the Old focuses on the individual lives and the sexual and social attitudes of a society maturing faster than its participants. HABIBI by Craig Thomspon A modern cartoonist’s take on traditional Arabic calligraphy with sensitive use of Islamic mythology, Habibi is an epic love story of a slave and a courtesan, as heavy and beautiful as each of its 672 pages. DAYTRIPPER by Fábio Moon and Gabriel Bá A philosophical and sincere look at the impermanence of life, Brazilian brothers Moon and Ba use bittersweet humour to follow a newspaper obituarist, detailed

vignettes asking ‘what if he had died just then?’ PERSEPOLIS by Marjane Satrapi Not just the biographical story of witnessing history, but growing up as a displaced person torn between the love of punk, leather jackets, cigarettes and the longing for your family and a homeland transformed by revolution and oppression. BEST OF THE REST...for a twist on traditional superhero comics, set your eyes on award-winning series Powers by Brian Bendis and Michael Oeming. The wartime noir of Dmz by Brian Wood and Riccardo Burchielli thrills. Fantasy and fairytales come alive in modern-day Brooklyn acclaimed series Fables by Bill Willingham and assorted artists. Willa Culpepper

The Vagrants by Yi Yun Li (China) Li tells the story of 1979 communist China in The Vagrants. Based on true events, it begins with young female activist Gu Shan who is sentenced to death for losing her faith in communism. Shortly after her death the citizens protest and over the next 6 weeks the town goes through uncertainty, hope and fear until the rebellion is brutally supressed. Li successfully depicts the temperament of communist China in the 70s. Her descriptions of cramped homes and the tiny alleyways running behind them, hens clucking, gates clanging and hushed whispers makes it almost possible to smell the streets and houses that the story is set in. The Vagrants brings to life the awful brutality people faced. The Death of Vishnu by Manil Suri (India) The Death of Vishnu follows the lives of the inhabitants of a slum building in Bombay. The residents’ daily routines continue on whilst Vishnu- a homeless man they allow to live in the corridors of the building in return for menial jobs- lays dying while re-living his life and lost love. The tale of Vishnu’s death and the stories going on around him are memorable; the descriptions of Vishnu climbing the huge stairs to heaven while he is bathed in a warming golden glow is beautiful. The book describes life, love and religion in India through the housewives, who live in the building.

Norwegian Wood by Haruki Murakami (Japan) In leading Japanese novelist Haruki Murakami’s cult bestseller, university student Toru has a turbulent love life and the book follows the tragic end of one relationship and the blossoming of a complicated but beautiful new one. Set in 1969/70 Tokyo, the student strikes and political upheaval provide the backdrop of this novel; recently adapted into a film by Vietnamese director Anh Hung Tran. Murakami tells the story of teenage expectations, and how they start off optimistic and quite often end up disillusioned after the first taste of unsuccessful romance, heartbreak and unrequited love are universal and make this book so easy to relate to. Laura Silman

BESTSELLERS FROM THE FAR EAST

DIGITALISATION

to digitalize or digitalise (dig路i路tal路ize) -vb

THE INCESSANT FEAR OF MISSING OUT FOMO IS CONTAGIOUS, ARE YOU INFECTED? By Sabien Flint

ver get that feeling that you’re missing out on something? Did a friend just upload bungee-jumping photos again? Are you wishing you’d gone to that thing after reading a tweet about it? Welcome to FOMO, the Fear of Missing Out. FOMO is the idea that at any given moment we are craving something bigger, better and more exciting that what we are doing right now. A blend of social anxiety, inadequacy and frustration, FOMO is closely interconnected with our Internet age. Collectively we send around 200 million tweets a day while 60% of us check Facebook more than five times a day. It’s something that we all experience to some degree, but what are we so worried about missing out on? Technology provides us with a non-stop stream of information: Twitter gives us constant updates on our individual thoughts, achievements and experiences in tiny 140 word packages. Foursquare lets us share exactly where we are and why we’re there through its check-in system, which automatically broadcasts to social media sites. Instagram lets us show off that delicious pizza or amazing cupcake we just ate, and at the hungry heart of the addiction is Facebook, where every status is subconsciously crafted to compete with our friends. Roger Tredre, an associate lecturer at Central Saint Martins, noticed that FOMO is a huge influence to the fashion industry. Upon asking his students why they were pursuing a career in fashion some had elaborate, heartfelt reasons whilst others were unsure; he attributed this uncertainty to the fear of missing out. ‘Fashion is almost intrinsically driven by FOMO,” Roger explained. “The moment something is in fashion it is pretty much on the point of going out of fashion, this is the continual driving force that means fashion never sits still.” After pulling Roger to one side to talk more about the fear of missing out in relation to the fashion industry it was clear that this phenomena isn’t only restricted to the catwalk. Roger continued: “No one is on the complete inside, and no one knows everyone and everything. Fashion operates on a series of cliques and paradoxes, making out to be for everyone but certain parts of the fashion world are only available to an exclusive few.” It’s easy to draw parallels with the case of the fashion industry to that of the millennial generation. It seems that technology has amplified the ferocity of FOMO, since social one-upmanship battles now take place online as well as off.

You can outdo thousands of online friends in a single tweet, but of course you will now have thousands of competitors to deal with. One of the main reasons why FOMO sets in is because we have so much choice available, with every single tweet a reminder of a path not chosen, an event or opportunity missed and yet another delicious cake not eaten. In a world where everything is so accessible, we have become used to instant gratification whether it is through impulse iTunes downloads or the latest mobile phone we just had to have, and falling into the envious trap of social networking is easier than ever. Millions of things have always been taking place around you that you knew about but couldn’t take part in, the problem is that in waiting for the next best thing it’s easy to become unappreciative of the present; you’re so busy tweeting about the roses that you forget to smell them. As we check a friends’ Facebook page, the immediacy of things that are going on without you is what makes it all the more frustrating. You can see someone else’s life unfolding play by play and wonder how things may have been different if you were a bigger part of it. Dan Ariely, a professor of psychology and behavioural economics at Duke University likens our fear of missing out to missing a flight, he says: “When would you be more upset? After missing your flight by two minutes or two hours? Two minutes, of course, you can imagine how things could have been different, and that really motivates us to behave in strange ways.” Technology has given us an almost symbiotic relationship with our online counterparts; we are constantly preening and protecting our online lives to make sure that only the best qualities show through, as well as checking each other ’s virtual selves. Technology and the Internet has long been romanticised as a Utopian place of freedom and creativity, especially by the companies who provide social networking apps and software, or lamented as dystopian even by the people who utilise it the most; the ones who could never bring themselves to delete that maddening, precious Facebook page. The ramifications of technology on society has been characterised and predicted since Aldous Huxley’s Brave New World. It is easy to draw parallels between Huxley’s writings and our self-policed, social big brother.

“ You’re so busy tweeting about the roses that you forget to smell them.”

Front Graphic by Sabien Flint Images Left: Artwork by Eric Fischer (White dots represent Twitter usage.)

Caterina Fake, co-founder of photo sharing site Flickr explained in a blog post that social media is both a gift and a curse: “FOMO is a great motivator of human behaviour…Clorox is one of the world’s worst polluters of water, and also sells Brita filters to get the bad stuff out. Lawyers create mazes that you have to hire a lawyer to escape. Similarly social software both creates and cures FOMO.” One saving grace of the Internet is that

for millions of people worldwide, technology has provided a means of communication on a much larger scale. The Internet can be the foundation and sometimes catalyst to long lasting friendships and relationships. Caterina adds a positive note: “There is true meaning in social media – real connections, real friendships, devotion, humour, sacrifice, joy, depth, love. And this is what we are looking for when we log on.”

LUXURY’S CHALLENGE OVERSEAS HOW LEADING FASHION HOUSES MUST ADAPT TO AUDIENCES IN EMERGING MARKETS By Cleide Cardoso

uxury fashion brands are working hard to keep their customer engaged at home but how should they approach audiences in emerging markets? The rising middle class in burgeoning cities like New Delhi, Sao Paolo, Shanghai and Taipei aspire to use thier newly aquired wealth to purchase western luxury. Understandably, designer brands are discovering that they need to adapt to new cultural .. In India, the consumer prefers luxury to maintain an “Indian-ness that infuses global sparkles on one’s wardrobe,” explains Amrita Kaplani, a freelance digital strategy consultant. “Indian customs force Euorpean brands to strike a balance between serving the needs of the customer whilst bringing them sought-after goods.” The Indian wedding industry is worth an estimated £8bn. In accordance with Indian traditions, personalised tailoring and one-to-one consultations are a natural part of the wedding design process. “Louis Vuitton’s bespoke garments have taken off in India and are really sought after,” Amrita Kaplani continues. “People are used to things being unique here, it’s just the way things are,” he exclaims. “When Hermès made saris and Bottega Venetta made a limited edition clutch exclusive to India, they were received well because it was European chic infused with Indian glamour.” Bollywood affects everything in India, but people don’t want brands to bring Indian-inspired diffusion lines, they want brands to listen to their needs. Jimmy Choo offers home visits to super rich clients who don’t want to be seen in the main cities shopping. This gives the high-spending, elite who are time poor the opportunity to engage in luxury in their homes. Ethnic culture does not always need to be integrated into the European luxury houses’ products. In China, the consumer previously traveled abroad to purchase famous high status brands. The Royals and things that are traditionally British are especially revered. This means good things for brands like the Pringle of Scotland. Their cashmere is highly sought after by wealthy Chinese consumers who are attracted to their top-tier offerings. Placed as a luxury heritage brand, Pringle has been doing well in the region. “The younger consumer is fantastically fashion conscious,” said Benoit Duverger, director of global

communications for Pringle in 2011. “They can tell the difference between a fake luxury product of mediocre quality and truly sustainable quality that is based on heritage, expertise and a less seasonal approach. This is where Pringle of Scotland plays a role.” Word of mouth is a very reliable way of marketing for luxury brands, as consumers’ purchasing decisions are influenced by recommendations and reviews of their friends. In social circles, there is no better review than one by a friend or a loved one; this translates into online as well. According to Eguan, a Chinese research company, by the end of 2011 China had 254 million active micro-blog user accounts, an increase of 150.7 per cent over the previous year. The stability of user activity proves the commercial value of microblogging. Users in China were four times more likely to buy an item if the reviews left by friends in social networks were good. In China, British heritage brand Burberry has shown that a targeted use of social media, which in turn feeds word of mouth, can be lucrative. Burberry’s offerings in Asia increased by 68 per cent in the last quarter of 2010 (£150m). Burberry invested £25m in emerging markets last year and much of that was spent on digital marketing and upgrades. China was the first market to launch the brand’s digital retail model in April 2011. Touchscreen experiences for customers and iPads for staff were implemented in a campaign to shake off the brand’s previous older image and attract younger customers. Fifty seven of its stores in China were kitted out with the technology, where staff ’s iPads were able to order customers’ sizes that may not be in store (about 5,000 products in Burberry’s collection aren’t stored in Chinese retail outlets). Customers can also get 24-hour customer service on Burberry China by using an online chat system in Chinese. Although E-commerce is a hot area now, experiences that happen in real life (offline) are just as important if not more important than online. Online needs to be a tool that is fully included into the global strategy of the brand; so that when the consumer who has aspired to buy a luxury

Front by: Cleide Cardoso Image 1. Ngee Ann City shopping mall, Singapore. 2. Louis Vuitton, Marina Bay

item finds you online and gets a recommendation from a friend, the service package is complete. The customer, regardless of their knowledge of luxury will want to feel as though the experience they’re buying is worth it. Sara Lu is a luxury boutique owner in Guangdong province, where the wealthy mainlanders fly over to Hong Kong for cheaper prices to avoid stamp duty imposed in China. She said; “When shopping in luxury stores in Hong Kong, I felt as though I was buying bargains instead of a luxury item. Sales people might be unable to offer everyone good service and were too busy to give a thorough introduction about the products.” She continued: “I should enjoy a luxury shopping experience when I shop for a luxury item.” The luxury shopping experience is different in Brazil where you can pay in installments, from four to ten part-payments. My mother, who has often traveled to Brazil, got her sister in Sao Paolo to pay for her Louis Vuitton Pegase 55 in Damier over four payments. This helped her to budget over a period of time for the bag and then pay it over slowly. She said: “I always told myself that I would one day own a luxury carry on case by Louis Vuitton, it is one of those things you promise yourself and need to fulfill. This payment method made it easier to attain.” Her dream of owning a luxury item came true. It was convenient and practical and in the end the rolling case came with her initials ‘N.M.C’ engraved in red as part of the bespoke offering. Luxury is already very attainable and Dimitris Mussard, founder of Acaju do Brasil, a independent

fashion PR company based in Sao Paolo, believes that this is dangerous because it entices people to shop outside of their budgets. “It’s no problem for stores they will get their money either way as they are ensured but the banks are always the ones that lose the money if the payments are not fulfilled. This is dangerous for the banks especially if people go in looking to buy things without paying the full amount.” When the real nouveau riche are learning about fashion they look online for their information on latest trends and brands, and in Brazil bloggers and writers act like a cross between educators and trendsetters for the country’s rising middle class. F*Hits.com.br, a conglomerate of 26 fashion bloggers attracts more than 3.5 million unique viewers a month - twice the audience of well-established sites like Marie Claire Brazil. Mussard, believes that brands must keep traditional methods of retail in mind when opening up shop in Brazil. “One cannot expect consumers who don’t yet have a proper fashion culture to know who you are just because you experience success in Europe.” Those who have opened up without researching the landscape properly have been stung in the longterm. Luxury knows it needs to move out in order to keep its profits up, but as it looks abroad to engage with the up-and-coming young and wealthy elite who hold the cards, they must listen to each market’s consumer base through social media whilst creating lasting retail relationships with the customer on the ground.

DIGITAL MUSIC STARS MUSICIANS ARE USING THE NET TO NOT ONLY SHARE MUSIC BUT GET SIGNED FOR MILLIONS By Tajha Myer-Ferreira

ix years ago, a Canadian rapper by the name of Drake released his first mixtape via MySpace for free. Two mixtapes later he was signed to Young Money and has since become one of the biggest rappers, topping the charts all over the world. Artists from many part of the world have become overnight sensations down to the wireless waves of the net. With the likes of Harlem-born 23-year-old rapper A$AP Rocky and the 21-year-old Australian version of Nicki Minaj - Iggy Azalea being signed to major labels after their mixtapes and YouTube videos reached millions of hits worldwide, the world has been opened for the next big thing with just a few clicks of a mouse. Late 2009/early 2010 saw the emergence of a new subgenre of dance taking off in the American underground scene. A new sound going by the name of Moombathan has fused with the salsa flows of Latin America and the bass heavy “riddims” of Jamaican dancehall and reggaeton. 22-year-old Dutch DJ, Rajiv Munchi created a remix of a Silvio Ecomo and Chuckie, dance track Moomba and said; “Without knowing it, I made the first originals of the genre.” Munchi who is a Rotterdambased DJ/Producer of Dominican Republic descent said his slogan is “Just a kid with big hair that loves to make all kinds of music and share his love for music in the clubs.” At the time of making the track, Munchi was living in Holland experiencing Dutch house music at its best. It’s there where he fell in love with the sound of Moombathan after he saw how the crowd reacted to it at a party by the American DJ and producer Dave Nada. “The music that was being played over Dutch House was more reggaeton and bachata type of stuff and what he did was slow down the tracks that he had to a more reggaeton tempo and it popped off!” said Munchi who came from a reggaeton production background. He continued: “That same night I made my moombahton promo combining all these influences that inspired me like baile funk, bmore, kuduro, dnb, mambo and dub step and put it out right away.” Bringing Moombathan into the main scene just like American electro-house Skrillex took dubstep to the mainstream worldwide, winning Grammys in the process. Munchi has branded himself as the ‘King of

Moombathan’ aided by the placement of his music out for free on the internet worldwide: “I had a sh*tload of tracks in all these different genres and I was like, if I don’t do something with them they’ll just end up rotting on my computer,” he said. Munchi continued: “I just put them out for free in monthly packages divided by genre. Going with that, I found out about blogs and checked out what blogs were posting.” With a fanbase ranging from the US to rural Russia, Munchi said: “I got to go to all these different places that I never thought I’d end up,” praising the net for his success in places like Denmark, Norway and so on - something the internet has been able to do for many new artists like himself: “It would’ve definitely taken me a longer time,” said Munchi. Through the Internet, the ears of listeners from all sides of the spectrum without any prior knowledge of the genre has been opened: “The concept of free music cuts all the bullsh*t and even people who don’t want it will check it out see if they will like it.” For London-based hip hop producer Bare Beats, the internet gave him a platform to be heard further than just off the streets of London: “The social networks and the soundclouds of the web have all helped in getting heard especially outside of your own inner circle,” he said. Building a catalogue of contacts in places like Greece, the US, Japan, Germany and Spain to working with artists from Canada including Canadian hobo rapper Moduluk who he recorded an album with in 2008, Bare Beats said: “I’d make the beats, send ‘em to him to write. He’d go into the studio and record his vocals, send ‘em back and the tracks were made like that. This has to be the main benefit of the net for me as a producer, even within the UK it makes it easy to collaborate with people in different parts of the country.” After 5 years of releasing EP’s via the internet with another in the pipeline, the internet has made things a lot easier for this producer: “For artists like me who sit outside of many industry genres; it means audiences can target my music,” Bare Beats believes it has a double effect at times: “A bit of luck is involved, especially if you don’t have the money for a decent online PR who has an idea of what they are doing.” This is the case of Marlon Roudette, the other half

“ I’m just

a kid with big hair that loves to make all kinds of music and share his love for music in the clubs”

IImage by Front Munchi 1. Luis Diaz 2.Press Photo 3. Luis Diaz 4. Press Photo

of hip-hop reggae duo Mattafix, whose brief stint on the UK scene in the mid-noughties is nothing near as close to the fame he has now: “The web is a great tool for sparking interest and publicity initially but after that I think we still need record labels to help with things like radio and TV promotion,” says the 29-year-old who launched his solo career just last year making it to number one in Germany, Austria and Switzerland with his hit soul-pop song New Age. Roudette whose solo career was launched via the classic word of mouth strategy through a guy he knew telling Universal Berlin about his music and all he’d done online, This lead to him releasing his first ever solo number one: “The video for New Age had around 8 million views so that helped get the word out. An artist can upload a video and get an instant reaction from online followers. But that is just a start.” The Internet has been a great aid in creating the beginning of the start for many artists who have used it as a platform for putting themselves out there. Spanish one-man band, voice instrumentalist

Hyperpotamus decided to go solo after spending ten years playing for a mixture of bands as a drummer and pianist and getting nowhere. When he looked to the internet for exposure he realised that “the Internet eased things by ten times”. He said: “I was in bands before the Internet became popular and it was much harder, slower and more expensive to get your music heard.” Packing up and moving back to his home city Madrid, MySpace drew in an even wider audience than those he had charmed on the Madrid Metro channel on his daily busking grind: “I got a lot of attention in a very short period of time and friends urged me to continue making music,” said Hyperotamus who found himself building up a fanbase from Chile, The Netherlands to the US. Now taking on stages such as the San Sebastian Jazz Festival, Hyperpotamus credits all to the internet spreading his one-man band further than Spain: “Without it, I’d have taken much longer to get heard.”

SOUND

to cause to make or emit a sound adjective, -er, -est, adverb adjective

MUSIC OF THE MOTHERLAND THE RHYTHMIC PERCUSSIONS AND HYPNOTIC BASS OF AFROBEATS IS TURNING HEADS By Mary Oluwawo

omentum is growing in nightclubs across London. Hip hop and R’n’B tunes have made their way to the bottom of the playlists, quickly replaced with melodic beats from the African motherland. The rhythmic musical percussions coupled with a hypnotising bass have turned many British dancehalls into a cultural buffet with Ghana, Nigeria and South Africa on the menu. Pleasant to the ear and pleasing to the feet the afrobeats revolution is currently taking over. Apart from the Saturday night music lovers, afrobeats has managed to make its mark even amongst the most unlikely candidates. Prince William couldn’t resist boogying down to the new sounds of Africa when the hit Ghanaian song Azonto came on during a London school visit. The prince is not the only star involved in the growing trend; rapper Kanye West, Akon and even Snoop Dog are all wanting a piece of Africa, inviting the evolving stars to join their record labels. One of the biggest influences in afrobeats has been DJ Abrantee and DJ DNA who popularised the growing genre via Saturday night Choice FM afrobeats radio show and hosting sold out afrobeats club nights. “Afrobeats is not just for Africans. Everyone enjoys afrobeats. My friends download these songs. Everyone can dance to it even though sometimes it is in native dialect every culture can relate to it,” says 26 year-old DJ DNA. The afrobeats scene exploded in 2007 due to a Nigerian hit song“Yahoozee” written by newcomer 9ice. MTV award-winner, Dbanj’s debut album “No long thing” made headlines with his breakthrough song “Tongolo”. Shortly after that more African artists followed suit creating up tempo club hits with a mixture of lyrics written in both the English language and African dialect. Although the cupid of afrobeats has just begun to shoot his arrows into the music mainstream, afrobeats has existed long before 2007. Most people are familiar with the afrobeats style of the musical legend, Fela Kuti. Before the 1970s African music was very much still an acquired taste, saturated with the Yoruba dialect and traditional talking drums, remaining contained to the motherland. Kuti revolutionised the world of African music mixing in highlife, jazz and funk, coining the term afrobeats. Afrobeats producer Justyn known as Charmer

created the “Sounds of Africa” mixtape. With the genre’s sudden success he tells us why it is so popular now. “Club dominance is the main reason for its popularity. Deep down everyone wants a tune in the club many listeners associate with good times. Afrobeats DJ’s have done well to push it. It came as a pleasant surprise. It’s fresh. People are looking for a new sound and this is it.” Fela Kuti the African music pioneer toured the world presenting westerners with a unique taste of Africa. Nowadays the afrobeats are a long way off from the African music of the 70s. Different cultures, particularly pop music have been fused with traditional African melodies to create the new club sounds. “Songs like Wiz Kid’s “Holla at your boy” and “Don’t dull” borrow from a variation of genre’s. The main difference between the 21st century afrobeats and the 70s is the use of auto tune and post studio editing to add creative and contemporary flair,” says Charmer. Afrobeats now consist of iconic vocals, percussions and synthesisers. It is a fusion of various music styles like grime,funky house, pop and RnB. With Fela Kuti off the scene, his modern day successors mainly originate from West Africa; with Ghana and Nigeria producing a majority of these celebrities. The scene’s biggest artists are Dbanj who has made a song with Snoop Dog, Wiz Kid who is signed to Akon’s record label and Don Jazzy who is signed to Kanye West’s GOOD Music. “People expected afrobeats to be watered down with pop once it crossed the pond but this isn’t the case. Afrobeats isn’t a passing phase it has longevity and will be around longer than funky house because it is original. It will go far,” says a hopeful DJ DNA. Currently becoming an internet and club scene phenomenon, the choreographed dance moves to accompany these catchy beats is the Azonto. “The Azonto is the most popular dance step at the moment. Everyone is doing it .The best one was the ‘white boy Azonto’ on YouTube it went viral, he was dancing in the middle of Oxford Street,” says Shana a regular club goer. Originating from Ghana the Azonto consists of

“ Afrobeats

is not just for Africans. Everyone enjoys afrobeats. Everyone can dance to it ”

Image by: Front Lightbox media 2. Afrobeats Festival, performers at the festival 3. Images by Press association 4. Images by Afrobeats festival, clubbers

co-ordinated body movements particularly of the knees and hips. The dance reflects creativity and humour of the Ghanaians as they mimic everyday movements in the dance e.g. ironing, boxing, washing and even driving. Oliver Twist, is another famous dance move, with no relation to Charles Dickens, the dance requires synchronised and timely body movements to the Dbanj tune. Although afrobeats has been an underground sensation, it is yet to hit the mainstream charts but with hip-hop moguls like Kanye West signing artists, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bound to happen soon. For the meantime, Africa will continue to inject the vibrant city of London with its contagious afrobeat sounds.

How to do the Azonto! 1. Lean to one side, both arms out. 2. Cross the arms back in and then out again. 3. Point one arm to the sky, while shuffling the leg on the same side of the raised hand. 4. Point to your opponent and display various hand, shoulder and face movements (this is where the mimicking ironing and washing stuff comes from) while stepping left to right. 5. Throw air punches at your opponent while continuing to move left to right. 6. Finish by throwing your hands down, stepping forward and shuffling one leg.

the artist

Shakka- London’s soulful sound of the underground Find him in his element down at the back of the Tabernacle in Westbourne Grove perfecting his exquisite pieces of art. West London’s very own Thomas Crown, Shakka Phillip is ready to breakthrough London’s underground music scene to bring his fusion of hiphop, R’n’B and alternative sounds to a name a few to the mainstream frontline. Quirkily dressed in his dotted shirt and clashing green cardigan, this 23year-old singer, songwriter and producer takes thinking outside of the box to a new level with a take on all styles of music that gets everyone gravitating to his work: “If you think inside of the box to realise that you inside yourself are a different entity from birth, there’s no one else like you to begin with from the moment you go out into the world,” he says when he describes his approach to his music making. “What I tried to do was find out more about myself and more about where I came from and what caused people more to gravitate towards that style and mix it into other things with other different styles.” Drawing on his influences from the likes of the eclectic

Andre 3000 to the commercial father of reggae, Bob Marley which Shakka defines as his “rock stone” that he adapted from his young days spent in the studio with his dad, a member of a reggae band called the Foreigners Crew based in west London, Shakka says: “The style of music I tend to make now stems from hip-hop and R&B but I take influences from reggae, rock, dance, garage, grime and from whatever sounds good from elements that I think I can use to make something beautiful.” His most recent EP, The Shakka Crown Affair, modelled from the story of the bored business billionaire Thomas Crown who found enjoyment in stealing fine art from museums, it follows the journey of Shakka stealing music from his own fictional art gallery to create his own. As he puts it, “It exhibits how I grow from just doing remixes to start making my own sound in the end.” It’s the remixes of Common’s J Dilla-produced So Far To Go to the energetic Coldplay classic God Put A Smile Upon My Face that connect Shakka to his listeners from the UK hip hoppers to the indie heads:

“I wanted to take from artists that were not only deep and big in the game but that I thought I could make something interesting with,” he says by telling ‘tories based on themes most of us have experienced more than once in life. “I wanted to have a message to say, a message to connect with the community that I feel that I connect with.” Sampling the Common classic So Far To Go in Take Our Time, Shakka tells the story about the trials and tribulations that most beginners in the lovers game face at the start of a fresh relationship: “The theme of that one is basically about taking your time with a girl being based on past relationships and both parties be like I’m just not really on a relationship, can we just take it easy?” With lyrics like “Because I’ve been there before and nearly took my life,” we can imagine Shakka has been there a few times himself. As you progress through the Shakka Crown Affair, Shakka seems to be a natural storyteller. Using testimonies from the heart and others close to him he says: “Why not do stuff from

the friends that I’ve spoken to and put those in songs and take lines from what other people have gone through,” as he puts it, “It’s just little bits of pieces from others and my own life.” He’s more than just a storyteller but a producer, singer and rapper mirroring his very own icons Andre 3000 and Labrinth. Shakka has created his very own Shakkapellas which he describes as creative accapella “they are covers that I’ve produced and beat boxed entirely using my mouth,” recreating the beat from Beyoncé’s End of time

to Frank Ocean’s Thinking Of You. Vowing to have more coming from the “house de la shak”, with growing performances at crowd fillers such as monthly talent showcase iluvlive at Shoreditch’s XOYO and weekly urban thursday nights at Notting Hill’s YoYo’s to collaborations with fellow West London rapper Incisive, Shakka says: “It’s gonna be fresh, hasn’t been touched but relates to the community and scene that I am birthed in,” believing it’s time to bring into his element some of the other sounds he grew up listening

such as the birthers of Grime, Wiley, Dizzee Rascal and Kano in the early noughties. But from hip-hop to reggae and indie, for Shakka Phillip it’s all about exploring his musical side in an era where the internet is creating a virtual world for the blossoming

of artists with an individual sound like himself: “Possibly after two, three albums when people are sick of my current style then I might think lets do something different. But for now, it’s thinking inside the box, in the fact that you are different and different in yourself.”

Text by: Tajha Myer-Ferreira Image by Shakka Press Office

MERGING

to cause to combine verb, merged, (m-urj) merg路ing -vb

THE CHANGING FACE OF BRITAIN How important is cultural identity today? By Tanika Cato

ondon is without doubt the biggest melting pot in the UK. People from all over the world live and work in the capital and have done so for years. Roughly three hundred different languages are spoken throughout London with the most common after English being: Bengali, Silheti, Panjabi, Gujerati and Hindu. Multiculturalism seems to be incorporated into society today with a variety of restaurants, food, languages, music and religions and so on. It’s been praised by many for allowing people to enjoy and embrace other cultures - think about schools and workplaces. Those in favor of living in a cosmopolitan city feel promotion and acceptance of multiple cultures is a positive thing. However, some critics of cultural identity argue that it can cause segregation in society instead of . allowing people to live harmoniously. Prime Minister David Cameron, publically criticised multicultural policies, at the Munich security conference. In his opinion multiculturalism allows different cultures to live separate lives. So is cultural identity a good thing in society that is trying to achieve harmony or does it allow people to feel separate? As humans we are all influenced by culture in one way or another, it’s impossible for anyone to be culture-free. Changes in society during this decade can allow us to develop a new sense of identity. Many have adapted their lifestyle as a product of interweaving cultures. The phenomenon of culture is different to everyone worldwide. Travelling allows us to experience the way of life in other countries. Some indigenous people may opt to use a different accent that they learn by watching international TV, listening to the radio and practicing how to pronounce popular words and phrases – the most popular being Americanisms. Milena Chimienti, a sociologist, says: “Cultural identity is complex. It’s always redefining itself from day to day. Identities can always change, you can alter your religion and sexuality among other things.” Cultural influences flow both ways, if we think of fusions in music and food. The current national dish for the UK, which is said to have come from London is chicken tikka masala (one of the most popular restaurant dishes). The fusion of British and Asian culture allowed it to take over from a traditional roast dinner that was very popular and no doubt is still popular for many families. Former Foreign Secretary of State Robin Cook dubbed the curry

‘a true British national dish’. Local MP for Ealing, Steve Pound gave his opinion on identity. As a prominent member of the community, he said: “Cultural identity is essential, without it you wouldn’t be able to understand anything, if you can’t understand yourself.” He recalled when he was growing up, some communities didn’t have confidence in embracing their culture. “ A Polish person at school would present themself as English, a girl called Eva said her name was Elizabeth. Things changed when black people immigrated in the 50s, because they couldn’t pass as white.” In his opinion before the 1950s, people didn’t really celebrate their culture, but after, the 1950s Caribbean culture erupted with many having a real sense of pride in their identity. He touched on whether multiculturalism allowed people to live separate lives, where he explained Cameron’s speech at Munich was responding to Angela Merkel’s comments about multiculty (German word for multicultural). “Cameron’s issue was relating to people from Northern Pakistan who tend to live in enclosed communities which is partly a reaction to fear. I remember when Asian families moved to Ealing, they soon moved out to Southall for protection, they were frightened of living near Irish families.” He continued by saying education is key to intergration and needs to be made more attractive instead of self- segregation. Along with education he noted respect and tolerance as vital. “You can’t say one theology or culture is superior than another. We need mutual respect, respect isn’t dissing someone’s trainers or postcodes it’s about tolerating everyone,” he said. The British Arts Council work with creative sectors and institutions to develop initiatives and events in terms of education, regeneration, social inclusion and international engagement. The creative economy pride themselves on developing new ways of asserting cultural identity. They have an international cultural leadership programme to celebrate individuals’ artwork and heritage. Pablo Rossello, curator, said: “The programme runs across numerous countries, which allows a broad spectrum of ideas and cultures to connect. By doing so society unites.”

“ It’s good

to live in a multicultural society, everyone has different beliefs and should be able to follow what they believe”

Britain but weren’t necessarily multicultural or always accepting. Multiculturalism is a new hybrid to young people nowadays particularly in London and cities but in pockets of Britain it is still a working process. It seems like the generation growing up are more tolerant, willing to embrace differences and try new things (food and customs being most notable.) Actor Dev Patel’s great Grandmother not being able to speak English reflects the point Prime Minister David Cameron made about people living separately however, it shows she is proud of her identity.

Image by: Front Tankia Cato, depicting cultural indentity

2008 saw the launch of cultural Olympiad. Various activities including national and local projects all part of a UK wider cultural festival. The aim is to bring together sport, education and diversity. This year will be seen as even more important because of London 2012 and the games, bringing people, events and celebrations together in local communities. East London student Bushra Helal sees her heritage as an important part of who she is and how she’s identified. “I think it’s good to live in a multicultural society, everyone has different beliefs and should be able to follow what they believe rather than conforming to a dominant belief.” As a muslim, Bushra feels society has a misconception of religion and culture. “People often confuse cultural values and religion, as they intertwine. Cultural values are what we learn but religion is what we’re taught and they can go hand in hand but are not the same.” On the whole it seems like London has reached the turning point of tolerance, of those who are from different backgrounds. British Asian movie star Dev Patel recently praised London for being so multicultural and giving to minorities he said: “My great-grandmother lives in Wembley, she can’t speak English and is way past the age where she is ever going to learn, but she can get by because this place caters for that.” The era Steve Pound described as being ashamed of your identity seems to have banished. Although some people aren’t as tolerant to the changes in Britain over the years with the rise in other cultures it seems people feel more accepted than years ago when some felt society was hostile. Older generations saw different cultures rising in

culture vultures

At what point does the influence of tribal trends on fashion reduce a culture to a costume?

The age of globalisation has seen the exchange of ideas and commerce taking place faster and farther than ever before. While our awareness of new cultures grows, so does their influence on fashion and media. This reflection of the diversity of the world is a truly modern advancement- but at what cost? Picture this: an attractive, slender model, bare apart from a feathered headdress. Under her eyes, two lines of face paint are smeared and on her feet are moccasins. Or for a haute couture twist, maybe stilettos covered in leather fringe. This probably sounds familiar, and harmless. To stylists, fashion houses and trendwatchers this typical photoshoot evokes an earthy, primal and mysterious feeling-

Pochahontus does Pucci. For the 4.5 million Native Americans and Alaskans living in North America, it is at best a cultural misunderstanding, and at worst a continuation of the racism that has occurred ever since the first pilgrims stepped on shore. Cherokee blogger Adrienne K outlines some of the issues on the FAQ section of her site entitled But Why Can’t I Wear a Hipster Headdress? “The image of a warbonnet and warpaint wearing Indian has been created and perpetuated by Hollywood. It stereotypes Native peoples as one monolithic culture, when in fact there are 500+ distinct tribes. Eagle feathers are symbols of honor and respect and have to be earned. The other issue is that warbonnets are reserved for men in Native

communities…I can’t read it as an act of feminism or subverting the patriarchial society, it’s an act of utter disrespect for the origins of the practice.” Sex sells. In any other context, a scantily clad woman in a fashion magazine or clothing campaign is not unusual. When paired with native regalia it takes on ugly responsibility for continuing to sexualise native women, a hurtful stereotype that results in violent statistics. Amnesty International already estimates 1 in 3 being at risk of rape, with 86 per cent of sexual assault towards them committed by non-Native men. This is probably not taken into account by the topless young girls in cheap costume-shop headdresses that can be seen wandering music festivals or

amateur photoshoots - they are just copying what the mainstream has already made acceptable. Magazine editors can be forced to make apologies, and clothing designers can reconsider items, such as when Urban Outfitters renamed their ‘Navajo’ panties and hipflask after drawing criticism. Yet while these companies profit financially, what they really trade in is image. Once those images are released into the mainstream they can never be recovered, especially if they continue to strengthen long held stereotypes. This is not limited to Natives. Cultural appropriation knows no borders, and while the ‘nude indian’ is one of the more popular trends to be manufactured recently other forms should be recognized

and condemned as well. A pervading look is gypsy style. Dangly earrings, layers of gauzy material, and a mysterious bohemian air accessorized with a brightly painted caravan or a guitar around the campfire. Yet in most of the countries where this is sidewalk style, real gypsies are continually discriminated against. Travellers in the UK are demonized as ‘pikeys’, barred from employment and education by locals and restrictive government guidelines, while Roma across Europe face forced deportation and their campsites attacked and vandalized. As consumers, of both companies and culture, we can fight this as we would any other form of racism. The first step is to educate- yourself and others- and to critically

think about appropriation. When somebody invites you to a cowboys and indians party, consider that dressing as an ‘Indian’ is no better than putting on blackface. When tempted to buy into the ‘tribal’ trend, remember that rather than purchasing cheap moccasins you could help preserve ancient traditions of leather tanning and beadwork by buying directly from Native-run organisations and shops, putting money back into the community. After all, globalisation should not be synonymous with ignorance. The modern world was built on the wreckage of empires and a long list of victims from destroyed tribes and persecuted survivors. The only thing that remains to be plundered is their culture, and it has to stop.

Text by: Willa Culpepper Image by: Jen Mussari

sHADe wars

darker skinned women still struggle to find makeup but is the game changing? Ask any black woman in the UK, and she’ll tell you that finding makeup for her skin colour is a bit like searching for the Holy Grail. In the US, the choice of foundations, powders and concealers for black and Asian women is amazing. The most popular selling products for darker skin tones in America are Cover Girl Queen Collection fronted by Queen Latifah, MAC and Black Radiance. In the States, women can head straight to department store makeup counters without the fear of unflattering colours dulling their natural skin tones. And when it comes to buying the makeup, they have the luxury of going to a high street pharmacy without feeling forced to choose the broken bottle of the most tanned option left on the shelf. So why hasn’t the UK caught up with the US as far as black women and their cosmetics are concerned? According to Mintel, a market research consultancy, the latest beauty report found that 12 per cent of the total British population are non-white, however, ethnic beauty

products represent just 1 per cent of all new hair care, skincare and makeup launches. According to the report this is partly because there is a ‘lack of commitment by mainstream companies to ethnic beauty needs and a lack of availability of ethnic brands in mass-market distribution.’ So this basically means ethnic minorities are forced to go to specialist retailers and wholesalers when others can easily pop down to high street stores. The problem isn’t that there aren’t enough brands providing make up for black and Asian women- there simply aren’t enough shades in the ranges which they provide. One of the big names in black and Asian cosmetics in the UK is Sleek. Over the last two years, high street pharmacy, Superdrug has introduced Sleek into some of its larger stores. Sleeks’ strap line is ‘My Skin, My Shade, My Makeup.’ They claim that their makeup “successfully matches 97 per cent of women across a range of different races and cultural mixes including those of Caucasian, Asian, Latina, Black African and

Caribbean descents”Sounds too good to be true? Probably because it is! How can Sleek insist that only 3 per cent of their customers will have problems finding their correct shade? Sleek only provide 17 foundation shades, and with the rise in mixed ethnicities, there are thousands of different skin tones in the UK. They are crazy to believe that nearly 100 per cent of their customers will be satisfied with their products. In the last few years things have started to improve and high street brands such as Maybelline and L’Oreal have introduced a wider range in skin shades. But put aside specialist brands such as Sleek, Fashion Fair and MAC, a lot of designer brands still only provide a light brown, a dark brown with not much else in between. But can 2012 be the year of change for the black cosmetics industry for British women? Already this year, French cosmetic brand, Lancome has released a brand new foundation called Teint Idole Ultra 24. It’s available in 18 shades and they’ve even stuck a pretty

black model in the advert

for good measure too. Even Chanel have launched a new line of foundation with a whopping 23 shades. Chanel believes that “perfect skin is among the most important features a woman can have.” They also claim that their new line, Perfection Lumière “adjusts to the skin needs of every ethnicity and stays in place with a flawless finish.” It’s not just foundations that are at a shortage- its concealers and powders

too. Last May, Yves Saint Laurent shocked the UK with the launch of two new shades of their world famous light reflecting concealer, Touche Éclat. The innovative concealer was first introduced back in 1992 with only five shades. Last year Yves Saint Laurent brought the shades Luminous Amber (6) and Luminous Mocha (7) to join the other five tones available, exclusively for the UK’s darker skinned market. Albeit, two shades

dedicated to brown skin isn’t life changing, but if a top designer like Yves Saint Laurent is doing it, then it’s a step in the right direction. And just in case we weren’t convinced, they’ve only gone and used beautiful, black, model, Jourdan Dunn to advertise the new range. While these are steps forward, they are quite tiny in comparison to the US market. There is still a long way to go for the black cosmetic industry on this side of the pond.

Text by: Rykesha Hudon Image by:Rykesha Hudson

PERCEPTION

immediate or intuitive recognition or appreciation per路cep路tion (per-sep-shuhn) -noun

TURNING JAPANESE Manga mania, anime enthusiasm and cosplay culture are taking over! Konnichiwa, London. By Laura Silman

ver since Bruce Lee burst onto the West’s TV screens in the 1960s as Kato in The Green Hornet we have gone crazy for everything Eastern. Today in 2012 nothing has changed- in fact the fascination is stronger now than ever, especially in London. We love the Far East so much, especially Japan, that Hyper Japan a three day event takes place in Earls Court every year. Kazuhiro Marumo, managing director of Cross media, the organisers of the popular event, says: “This is our third event. We realised there was a growing interest in all aspects of Japanese culture, in addition to food, and particularly street, pop and contemporary culture. Although there were events that catered to specific niche markets like Cosplay and Anime, there was not an event that was all-encompassing, and specifically that also incorporated good quality, authentic Japanese food and drink. This is the background to the development of Hyper Japan.” Last year London teenagers were in the grip of Korea’s K-pop and this year Japan’s J-pop has taken London’s teens by storm. The cat walk is also awash with Eastern style and colours, and sushi and noodle bars have been cropping up all over the place for the last ten years...but why? What is it about the Asian culture that we in the west can’t get enough of? J-pop sensation Natsuko Aso who performed to a crowd of adoring fans on two of the three day event says: “The music is fun and quirky and the associated fashion and image can be really out there, and it isn’t just the music; there is the J-pop culture art that goes along with it, fans can really get stuck in.” Marumo goes on to suggest that perhaps the reason Lady Gaga is so popular in Japan is because of her “out there” style and attitude towards fashion and music. Style and fashion certainly seems to go hand in hand with music and the collection of clothes stalls and accessory tables inside Earls Court pays testament to that. Once inside the clothes section there is a never ending sea of everything, from crazy styles to traditional dress. High end Japanese fashion label Baby, the Stars Shine Bright are absolutely incredible and unlike anything seen in the British clothes market. There were bizarre patterns, bags that looked like cakes and dresses that

are a cross between burlesque and young girls’ pinafores you might be able to remember wearing at school. French-Japanese designer Tatsuki Takino says: “Far Eastern style has become popular because it is so bright and colourful; it is fun and exotic and really gives people the chance to be creative and to stand out from the crowd. It’s like nothing that has been seen before in the west and people are enjoying it.” Jewellery maker Cat Armitage, co- founder of Two Bad Bananas agrees with clothes designer Takino. Cat says: “I make jewellery that is a little weird and funny, it’s cutesy and people love it, they have never seen a pair of carrot earrings with eyes before and they find it intriguing- that is why Japanese style is so popular at the moment. It’s mysterious.” But it isn’t only music and fashion that people can’t get enough of. Asian film is slowly but surely becoming recognised in the West the way Bollywood films did years before them. The west have loved martial arts films for decades there are many actors from this genre like Jackie Chan, Jet Li, Chow Yun Fat and Michelle Yeoh who crossed over into Hollywood many moons ago. Horror films have also been popular in the west for a while. Films such as The Ring, Dark Water and The Grudge were all bought and re-made by Hollywood in the early noughties, managing director of Third window films Adam Torel explained that horror films and action films work in any language but comedy films can be lost in translation. Adam says: “The reason Japanese and Korean films are starting to become recognised is because they have great characters that have very in-depth personalities, Western characters are very 2D. For example, nothing happens in the film Adrift in Tokyo but the characters and their stories are very interesting and it makes the film very enjoyable.” Manga and anime have been a cult popularity for years. If you have never been to an event like Hyper Japan or any other anime or comic convention you have never seen anything like the cosplay fans that dress up like characters from films or video games or perhaps even science fiction characters. The cosplay or “costume play” section of the event

Film directors Satoshi Miki and Eri Fuse

Image by: Front Laura Silman Imge by: 1 Laura Silman - Iamge by; 2 Laura Silman.

was overrun with people wearing amazing, handmade costumes surrounded by people taking photos. Cosplay fan Laura Sindel says: “I am an engineer and I just love creating the costumes and wearing them to events like this, it’s great fun where you can meet lots of likeminded people and it’s just a great creative outlet.” The west have always adopted food for their owncurry from the days when India was part of the British Empire, and is still one of the country’s favourite dishes. Far eastern food has been on the wests radar for a decade. The high streets are over run with Wagamama restaurants which are always busy. Hitomi Asada, a chef who worked on one of the busiest sections of the event the “taste discovery zone” says: “Our food has become popular because it’s healthy and

fresh and not too heavy. Some people may be scared to try things like sushi because it is raw but usually most people can find something they like.” Walking around Hyper Japan, talking to the exhibiters and the organiser; what strikes me is that the UK is a multi-cultural society, especially London and events like this are celebrations of that. K-pop was popular last year, Japanese culture with all its quirkiness and intrigue is popular this year, asking Ms Marumo one last question: What will be popular next year? She says with perhaps the hint of a knowing smile: “I wouldn’t be surprised if we started to see more cultural exports from China, if not quite to match the level of their industrial exports.”

ONLY SKIN DEEP? HOW THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY IS CASHING IN ON RACIAL INSECURITIES By Rykesha Hudson

ll around the world women look in the mirror and are unhappy with what stares back at them.There are an increasing number of women from ethnic minorities who strive to change their appearance, and will go to any lengths to get there. While many white women are spending time and money transforming their complexions from pale to bronzed and perming their hair, there is a huge number of darker skinned women from all over the world who desire a lighter, more Caucasian complexion, straighter hair and smaller facial features. From Jamaica to India every country seems to have their own attitudes and opinions towards what is deemed ‘beautiful’. Why do women feel that they must put in hair extensions, wear coloured contact lenses and go under the knife to alter their looks? Cultural historian and author of Whiteness Made Simple, Dr William Henry says: “When people are colonised and dominated, such as ethnic minorities in Britain and America, within a few generations it becomes normal practice for many in that group to mimic the habits of those they deem to be ‘superior’. This will obviously include altering physical and mental practices out of a misguided notion of being accepted. For blacks, Latinos and Asians; this can result in skin bleaching and other forms of self effacement.” Over the last decade, more women have resorted to using skin lightening products to create their desired skin colour. Skin lightening products often create a lighter, even toned complexion. Dr Emma Meredith is the head of scientific and technical services at the Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association. She says: “Skin lightening products work by reducing the presence or appearance of the pigment melanin in the skin. It’s the amount of melanin produced, the type formed and how it’s distributed throughout the skin that determines the skin’s colour. It’s a complex process and ingredients used in skin lightening products help to slow down this process which results in a lighter skin colour.” In India, skin-whitening products are a multi-million dollar industry with companies like Hindustan Unilever Limited and Emami making a massive profit each year. Hindustan Lever Limited’s Fair & Lovely skin-whitening cream is the largest selling product of its kind in the world, marketed in Asia, Africa and the Middle East. In India, it dominates over 80 per cent of the skinwhitening cream market and is consumed by an estimated 60 million people throughout the Indian subcontinent.

Even famous Bollywood stars embrace these products. Award-winning Bollywood actor Shahrukh Khan is the face of Fair and Lovely’s male counterpart: Fair and Handsome. Poonam Patel, 21, moved from Mumbai, India to London three years ago to study . She says: “Back home, many of my friends and even mother use skin lightening creams and soaps. It’s a normal part of their day. However I find it sad that women are not comfortable with who they are.” The desire for fair skin has a much more complex cultural history that also has to do with class. For centuries, light skin has been a marker of wealth, distinguishing the rich who had the luxury of staying indoors and not work from the poor who worked under the sun. Most skin whitening products are legally classed as cosmetic products in Europe. However many creams sold on the black market contain a chemical called hydroquinone, which can cause intense irritation and uneven bleaching of the skin. Some even contain highdose steroids, which can cause thinning of skin and visible blood vessels. A more harmful ingredient in skin lightening cosmetics is mercury. It was banned from every cosmetic product produced in the EU since 1976. It is even illegal to manufacture mercury cosmetics for export to other countries which it is legal. Mercury can cause a number of side effects, including increased pigmentation, itchy rashes and foetal abnormalities if the product is used during pregnancy. Devastatingly, some of these side effects often leave the skin in a far worse state that it was to start with. Dr Emma Meredith says: “The problem with illegal products is that we just don’t know what could be in them or how safe they are. Therefore it is not possible to know what the effects could be and of course we do not want people to find out. This is why it is important to always buy your cosmetic products from a trustworthy source such as large reputable outlets or an official website. Responsible manufacturers will be producing cosmetic products according to the strict legal requirements, which have safety as a top priority.” For many women, black celebrities such as Rihanna, Beyonce Knowles and Tyra Banks are seen as role models. In the media these celebrities are seen with air-brushed faces and long straight weaves and wigs despite their ethnic origin. Tessa Edeju, 20 a student from London, says: “My

“ When

people are colonised it becomes normal practice to mimic the habits of those they deem to be ‘superior’”

Images by: Rykesha Hudson

mum first relaxed my hair because it was really thick and hard to handle. I’ve been doing it ever since. Tessa continues, “I love wearing weave and I don’t think I would ever leave my hair natural or take out my hair extensions. They make me feel glamorous and beautiful. I don’t think I wear weave to be white but I definitely think straight hair is better that curly hair. ” Chart topping songstress, Beyonce has continuously been penalised for wearing very blonde wigs and weaves. However her sister, Solange Knowles has recently taken out her own weave and wears her hair in a natural afro. Dr William Henry says: “Celebrities do not realise the power they have over their fans. If Beyonce went natural and wore an afro you would see a drastic change in how black women perceive themselves.” It’s not only black women who are changing the texture of their natural hair. In Brazil women have started to use a product called Keratin, and is known as the Brazilian Blow dry in the UK. It claims to straighten and soften the hair. Ben Khan is deputy manager of Beauty Queens Cosmetics, an afro-caribbean hair shop in east London. The store stocks over 40 different types of skin whitening products, over 10 different brands of hair relaxers and

an endless hair extension range. He says: “Our weaves, skin lightening products and relaxers are the most popular and sell the most. Before this market was dominated by mostly black customers but now we get a lot of Asian and Eastern European girls buying hair extensions too.” He adds, “I don’t judge any of my customers. If they want lighter skin, then fine. If they want straight, long hair then fine. I just provide the customer service and advise them on what’s best on the market.” Black patients are still cosmetic surgery’s slowestgrowing minority, according to latest statistics by the British Association of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons. However, rhinoplasties (nose jobs) are among the most popular procedures. Dr Bhatty is a cosmetic surgeon for Transform Clinic. He says, “Black women often want to reduce the broadness of their noses. They often request small petite noses like their favourite celebrities.” With the pressure of the media, cultural influence and representation of celebrities, it’s not much of a surprise that women are unhappy with their appearance and are eager to change it. Only problem is- they’re abandoning their own culture to jump-start on another.

LOVE ACTUALLY With divorce rates at an all-time high are arranged marriages the answer? By Sheena Thacker

rranged marriages are often seen as business deals of some kind where love is usually not on the agenda. Although Western societies tend to ridicule arranged marriages as backward, uncivilized and primitive, there are also many positive aspects too. Westerners focus more on the physical aspects of relationships and are thus obsessed with physical appearance and attraction. As a result, people get married based on these factors and often become disenchanted with one another a lot quicker. Although it is foreign to most of the western world, arranged marriage statistics show that this type of union is often more successful than those we typically see in the West. Common in India, Africa and in some parts of the Middle East, they are usually arranged by someone other than the couple themselves, usually their parents. In the U.S, Russia and the United Kingdom divorce rates have skyrocketed to 40-50 per cent. In contrast, Eastern cultures such as Sri Lanka and India are dramatically lower, at a divorce rate of 4 per cent. Usually this is because arranged marriages place far more emphasis on the practical aspects, such as integrity, diligence and ambition. Francine Kaye, relationship expert and author of The Divorce Doctor claims that this is because “Arranged marriages are often carefully considered, whereby much time and thought is put into arranging the right match. Family background checks, interest and life goals are all considered.” Arranged marriages are most common in India, Bangladesh, Iran, China, Indonesia, Japan and in cultures where Buddhism, Islam and Hinduism are the predominant religions. It is unfortunate that they are taken in a negative light by western societies which are mainly attributed to the lack of knowledge of the given culture and their customs. According to research, those who enter into an arranged marriage of some sort, or who have had their partners chosen for them by their parents or an elder often feel that love grows with time, whereas those in love marriages often feel less in love over time. Within 10 years of couple being married, their love for one another is believed to be twice as strong. Francine Kaye believes that when the passion softens and levels out, as it inevitably will, the couple are left with each other. At this point if the couple do not have a set of values in common as well as a commonality in the way they view life, they may wake up one morning wondering who the person beside them really is. She says; “You need to be able to see someone in very many situations and circumstances, easy and challenging

to weigh up the qualities that work for you and those that don’t. If you take the time from the outset to get to know each other over four seasons, you will pretty much know whether this person is a good match for you.” Realistically we all want to be truly, madly and deeply in love. But just because arranged marriages are not premised exclusively on love doesn’t mean that it doesn’t or won’t ever exist. The idea of a forced marriage is not to be confused with an arranged marriage. An arranged marriage doesn’t mean that spouses do not have a say. In many countries the man or woman can refuse a selected spouse. Sneha Hindocha, who entered into an arranged marriage 5 years ago, says; “Although at first my relationship with my husband wasn’t full of passion and lust, we had formed a very good friendship with one another. Over the years this developed into a very strong unbreakble bond, full of love and romance and now I couldn’t be happier. We get along on so many levels, and I do believe that if I decided to choose a partner for myself I wouldn’t be as happy as I am now.” Traditionally in arranged marriages, the decision is made by the parents of the couple and they have to abide by that decision. It was quite likely that the couple would see each other for the first time after their wedding. These marriages are still prevalent though in lesser numbers than the past. However, the more liberal arranged marriages in recent years are often referred to as ‘semi-arranged marriage’ or ‘arranged introduction’ whereby the process starts with the parents but essentially the couple make the final decisions. Francine Kaye believes there is a lot to be said for arranged marriages. “It is related in many ways to ‘online’ dating where couples are ‘matched’ according to their compatibility. I believe that with their best interests at heart, arranged marriage can work for many couples who agree to the process.” Suffice to say, every culture see’s the union of a couple in different ways. The courtship period is also allowed by certain cultures, in more modern societies like India, dating is often encouraged in order for the couple to get to know each other better. Aminah Talwar, who is having an arranged marriage explained how her first meeting with her fiancé was at a coffee shop. “He was given my number by his aunt who knows my family. I received a text from him and we decided to meet up for coffee. We

“ I don’t

believe that if I decided to choose a partner for myself I wouldn’t be as happy as I am now ”

image by: Praktik Unia Image of an Arranged Wedding

went on about six dates after that, but I knew straight away he was right for me. I had a few other meetings arranged for me from various elders, but none of them were right for me,â&#x20AC;? she says. Arranged marriages have been part of many cultures for thousands of years, primarily born out of the desire and need for a financial, political or property-based partnership and based on the union of similar faiths. Although arranged marriages were once considered

an outdated notion, it has become a common practice amongst various cultures within the UK. Modern day arranged marriage is not about being forced into federation, but trusting someone else to pick the most compatible person for you. With the lowest divorce rates in countries where arranged marriages are most common, it might just be time to rethink the Western approach to love.

Ganesh Puja (Prayer invoking Lord Ganesh) Ganthibandhan (Tying the Knot)

Chathurthi Karma (The Bride and Groom feed eachother) Mangalfera (Walking Around the Fire)

Images by; Pratik Unia

VISION

something seen or otherwise perceived during such an experience vi路sion (vizh-uhn) -noun

THE BATTLE FOR THE BIG SCREEN DURING THE SECOND WORLD WAR, SOLDIERS FOUGHT BOTH HITLER AND DISCRIMINATION AT HOME. NOW THEY’RE FIGHTING FOR RECOGNITION IN FILM.

By Willa Culpepper

eorge Lucas, director of Star Wars walks into a Hollywood studio. His iconic films have drawn millions of fans, critical acclaim and a successful franchise. The pitch seems a sure thing: a blockbuster about fighter pilots during World War II, featuring up and coming actors and shot by a director linked to a popular television show. He’s been rejected by not only this studio, but every major studio. Barack Obama is elected. In the days of celebration following, a car full of elderly men in military uniforms with medals pinned to their chest can be seen in the inaugural parade.What do these two things have in common? Both centre around the Tuskegee Airmen, a group of African-American and Haitian pilots, who became the first black pilots in the US armed forces despite serving in a military, segregated racially, and the home front more so through both violent and legal means such as the ‘Jim Crow’ laws. Deployed as escorts to heavy bomber planes, they served successful missions in the skies above Europe and North Africa. Nonetheless they weren’t allowed to socialise in the same clubs as white pilots, and do laundry in the town. At war army bases wouldreportedly w a s h G e r m a n prisoners clothes but would refuse to clean Tuskegee uniforms. “You never met a Tuskegee Airman with a chip on his shoulder” says Roosevelt Lewis. A US Airforce colonel mentored by famous Airmen who collected their stories, says that their love for their country won out against the hatred surrounding them. He says: “They went over to help win peace, to preserve for those countries what they as citizens for this country did not have yet. That’s a true love of your nation, and trust that her creed one day would be brought to full fruition. They had to fight for the opportunity to fight for this country, and were willing to die for her ideals. They did not brag. They did not complain.” He pauses before adding “Lieutenant Colonel Herbert E. Carter told them ‘the greatest antidote to racism is excellence.’” The poison of racism is slow-moving however, it still creeps through the film industry. The famous ‘dogfights’ over Europe inspired the fighter jet scenes in Star Wars, leading George Lucas to spend two

decades working on a project that would turn the story of the Tuskegee Airmen into a blockbuster. Red Tails has all the right ingredients: cutting edge special effects, action, glory, and the story of a group of young men teaming together to battle an evil empire. Yet Lucas was ultimately forced to fund and produce the project himself after it was continually turned down due to a ‘lack of white roles.’ We remember WWII through commemoration ceremonies, documentaries, television programs and film. The dramatisation of one of the defining conflicts of the 20th Century makes good viewing, attracting big actors and even bigger budgets. Saving Private Ryan grossed $481million and won four Academy Awards. Band of Brothers became the most expensive television show ever made, costing roughly $12.5 million per episode- topped only by its follow up, The Pacific, with a overall budget of $200 million. Yet the audience that flocked to these movies and serials justified the cost, which was further offset through rocketing DVD sales and consistent reruns. We’ve come a long way since the rousing black and white shorts used to sell war bonds to cinemagoers .Although we now make our World War epics in Technicolor, the cast remain curiously white. It’s not for lack of material- men and women of many ethnicities served throughout the war in almost every level of infrastructure and support. Several stories stand out as perfect for silver screen glory. The 442nd Infantry Combat Regiment comprised of Nisei and Japanese-Americans. With many of their families labelled ‘enemy alien’ and forced into internment camps along by the US government, they fought their way across Europe under the banner ‘go for broke!’ Despite suffering an estimated 314 per cent (each man injured more than 3 times) casualty rate, the regiment battled in farmlands, hilltop towns, mountain passes, rivers and liberated Dachau. Still currently the most-decorated unit in US military history, its soldiers returned home to signs in windows that read ‘No Japs Allowed’ and ‘Go Home.’ “[They] fought on two fronts,” says Judy Giuriceo, the curator at Ellis Island Museum which hosted

442nd Infantry courtesy of the NARA, 2. Red Tails 2012, property of Lucas Films 3. 1943 propaganda poster by Alex Liberman courtesy of NARA, FRONT: Red Tails still 2012 stills

an exhibition on the 442nd. “The museum was able to enhance public knowledge concerning the experience of Japanese-American soldiers and their quest for full and equal citizenship.” The few biopics giving space to these tales of guts and glory assume that the audience are only interested if a white main character is involved. The 1951 film Go For Broke! is considered a rare exception where Hollywood portrayed Asians positively, yet the story revolves around their caucasian colonel. Half a century later, the same criticism is still levelled at films such as Windtalkers (2002), which depicted the Native-American soldiers responsible for sending and receiving message in Navajo (a code still unbroken by the Germans at the end of the war) but showed far more screen time and interest in their sergeant, played by Nicholas Cage. “It’s what’s known as a ‘structured absence’,” says Professor Mary Wood, head of Media & Cultural Studies at Birkbeck University. “It’s so crashingly absent that it’s significant, representing something that can’t be easily assimilated by ideologies of white racial superiority.” Historian Stephen Bolan agrees. “World War II is seen as sacred. There is an eradication of the role of black servicemen and women. I suspect in 1945and I say this is about Britain but is probably true of other societies- that people were exhausted and traumatised and wanted to get back to what they perceived as normality. To them this was the prewar idyllic version always sold in movies and books.” Bourne sees the latter as instrumental in change, starting with history books and school curriculums.

Colonel Lewis sees Red Tails as an important cinematic step in the right direction. “The true story is more powerful than anyone could capture on film. It is an extremely powerful chapter in the history of this country, and in the history of nations. More people will be exposed to the story, will ask questions, will go to the documentaries and history. In Hollywood you have to start somewhere, and you have to end somewhere.”

x-rated has reality television become the new bloodsport?

Reality TV seems to be taking over both terrestrial and digital channels. The phenomenon exploded during the noughties, with the success of series such as “Big Brother” and “X Factor”. But has it gone too far? Reality TV portrays a highly modified and influenced version of reality. “The Only Way Is Essex” girls appear immaculate first thing in the morning - full makeup, false lashes and lipstick with not even a strand of hair out of place. So it’s a misnamed concept in television; actual reality would be pretty boring. Producers undergo numerous casting calls to select people they think audiences will respond to - whether it’s someone weird, irritating or has strong views. Think of Nicki Grahame in “Big Brother” UK (2007),the series

overgrown toddler throwing temper tantrums all the time. “BBUK” is a prime example of producers seeking people that they know will clash and provide excitement for the average viewer at home. Charley Uchea quickly gained the undesirable title of the least popular housemate after constant arguments with fellow contestants. The initial idea behind the programme was based on a psychological analysis to see how people who don’t know each other interact. It shot to fame in the UK in 2000, where we saw a group of people (‘housemates’) living in a house isolated from the outside world for three months with the aim of surviving till the end. After 12 weeks the last person remaining wins a prize fund. Following the

success of the first show in the Netherlands, (1999) it was broadcasted in 11 different countries including the UK, US, Brazil, Germany and more. Since then the show’s format has been a prime time hit, allowing the franchise to be rolled out in over 70 nations - a huge crowd puller across the globe. The hype that the show generates in the media provides free publicity and can be a big factor in its success or failure both here and abroad. In previous series of “Big Brother” UK, we’ve seen some serious scandals- a physical fight, with police involved and two racism rows. In Brazil a housemate appeared to be sexually assaulted in her sleep. You think producers and networks would say enough is enough. But they haven’t, it’s still being aired and probably

won’t stop anytime soon, because ratings are high and it’s relatively cheap to produce. Think about it: there’s no need to pay actors or writers, no endless rehearsals or elaborate set designs. Using ordinary people is a formula that works. Reality TV shows use a number of styles, such as game shows, makeovers, docusoaps starring celebrities like “Keeping Up With The Kardashians” and “The Osbournes” among others. One can argue the popularity of programmes lies with broadcasters wanting the highest viewing rates. In the UK the main broadcasters are ITV and the BBC on terrestrial channels with the increasing influence of cable and satellite TV. The variety of stations means broadcasters

are fighting for viewers so reality TV offers a way to gain high audience numbers. Big Brother gave Channel 4 its most popular ratings in the history of the channel when it launched in 2000, attracting over 10 million viewers. The show also created a celebrity spinoff, boosting ratings even further- even if it is a bunch of Z -listers that want to claim back another five minutes of fame or people that we wouldn’t even consider celebrities. Take this years show as an example: Frankie Cocozza - “X Factor” reject who was booted off the show for breaking one of their ‘golden rules’. Although “Celebrity Big Brother” costs more to produce because stars are paid, high audiences provide broadcasters big advertising fees.

Aside from the lack of celebrity status on a serious we’ve seen many reality stars crack under pressure of being in a confined space. The psychological effect is not one that is nice to see or what some would call entertainment. Others may disagree on this one. Like “Big Brother”, the “X Factor”, produced by media mogul Simon Cowell has been an international hit and we’ve seen stars emotionally break down. TV broadcasters have an obligation to protect the rights of certain contestants in the same way that employers and providers of goods and services do. In fact they can possibly be accused of failing to make ‘reasonable adjustments’ especially to vulnerable contestants. Text by: Tanika Cato Image by: Tanika Cato

eastern promise aFTER TWO DECADES iS BRITISH-ASIAN CINEMA COMING OF AGE?

It is clear that, over the last 20 years, attitudes in Britain towards Asian cultures have shifted, as has the taste of mainstream audiences for Asian-themed films and how they are represented. British-Asian filmmaking has its roots in politics of the 1960s and 70s, where Asians were very much considered racial minorities within the UK, often living under the threat of poverty and social exclusion. The need to challenge this racism and create greater awareness inspired a new wave of Asian filmmakers pushing the boundaries. Filmmakers at this time often explored in low-budget independent productions - issues relating to cultural activism, the fight against racism and dilemmas of identity created by living ‘between’ two cultures. The first and possibly most

influential icon to see the successful merge between British and Bollywood film, was English playwright, novelist and filmmaker, Hanif Kureishi. Born in Bromley, he successfully produced the 1984 drama My beautiful Laundrette, the first BritishAsian themed feature film to claim a mainstream market. This daring and risqué storyline looks into the life of a gay, mixed race boy growing up in the 1980s. The movie not only proved a great success in its own right, but has given a true reflection on the lives of British Asians, winning the New York Film Critics Best Screenplay Award. Aside from this awardwinning release, has every British-Asian movie matched up to those standards or perhaps even challenged the boundaries which Kureishi so highly set? Revisiting the past

seems to be a recurrent theme in British-Asian drama’s, first with Meera Syal’s, Anita and Me (2002), based on the writers experience of growing up in a working-class town much like her character in the movie. Meena, a nine-yearold girl represents a unique yet truthful vision of a British child in the Seventies, where racism was still very much present and the struggle for independence in many Asian families living in the UK. This movie successfully played out a strong representation of the conflict between the two cultures. It’s clear the need to testify reflects the importance that cinema played for those from an Asian background, having to face and tackle these every day, real life problems. The late 1980s saw changes in cultural politics and as a result some Asian filmmakers

were increasingly commercially orientated, concerned with depicting a vibrant and diverse British Asian experience as well as exploring mainstream themes. East is East (1999), written by Ayub Khan-Din, a comedy about the experiences and conflicts of a working-class mixed-race British-Pakistani family. Bend It Like Beckham (2002) became one of the most popular British films ever and was a far cry from the colonially-obsessed images of Asians depicted in mainstream British cinema and television in the 1980s and earlier. Gurinder Chadha’s

commercial feature “Bride and Prejudice” (2004), subverted the British stereotype of the passive Asian woman with a remake of Jane Austen’s Pride and Prejudice. Writer Chris Morris’ Four Lions (2010) also challenged these boundaries by satirising public prejudice in his story about a group of British born, jihad terrorists. One of the more recent releases, Slumdog Millionaire (2008) has paved the way for more films of its kind. This transition from the fight against racism and the dilemmas of identity to other themes further afield like poverty and an unrequited love have become

more of a recent venture for filmmakers. It’s a given that if you’re not up to date with all of the above, its time you get yourself down to the big screens just in time for the new release of 7 Welcome to London (2012) the first British film made in Hindi. Asad Shan, centre’s his story around the struggles of a young immigrant from Delhi, who feels London will allow him to fulfill his aspirations. An extreme transition from the earlier, hard hitting movie themes we were once accustomed to. Could this noir-meets-Bollywood production be a new era for the British-Asian cinema?

Text by: Sheena Thacker Image by: Fox Searchlight from Bend it Like Beckham film

INTEGRATION

an act or instance of combining into an integral whole in路te路gra路tion (in-ti-grey-shuhn) -noun

near & eLSEWHERE THE DOWNFALL OF THE AMERICAN DREAM AND THE RISE IN CHINESE ECONOMIC POWER

The collapse of the American suburban dream and the rise of Chinese mega-cities are the themes of Near and Elsewhere, an exhibition of video, photography and installation. The gallery tour this February was given by one of the featured artists Gaia Persico and architecture and art journalist Herbert Wright who were both heavily inspired by the topics raised in the show. Herbert Wright says: “The two reoccurring themes throughout this show are the collapse of the American suburban dream and the rise of urban China and these two things are linked through the credit crisis and, Chinese industrialisation” Hong Kong-based German artist Michael Wolf has created some photographs

that are effective in making the density in these Chinese cities real. One piece of work takes up a whole corner from floor to ceiling; it shows around 30 different shots of people living in their apartments in the same building. All the rooms are small and cluttered and to look at it gives off a feeling of claustrophobia. Another artist who bases his work in China, Greg Girard, creates his art from another perspective but creates the same atmosphere as Wolf. Girard’s House on Huashan Lu shows a dilapidated old, wooden house stood on its own in a sea of rubble with Shanghai looming over it, you can see there is one light on in the house, perhaps where a stubborn resident sits refusing to leave their home, it creates a very lonely, isolated image.

As well as globalisation the exhibition deals with and covers many different aspects of modern life such as new urbanism, alienation, anonymity, urban poverty and density. Some of the most interesting images which portrayed alienation and anonymity very well came from Gregor Graf and his HiddenTown collection. Graf takes photographs of seemingly normal areas but strips them of all signs, people and cars and creates a sense of eerie isolation and anonymity. In doing this it also makes it impossible to clarify where the picture was taken, there is a selection of images taken around London with all the signs removed which are unrecognisable to what we see every day.

Edgar Martins’ images of luxury houses abandoned in the credit crunch in the United States were perhaps the most controversial of the whole show. Wright explains: “The New York Times commissioned Martins to make a photo essay about the houses abandoned during the credit crunch, but when they found out that some of the debris and the lighting in the shots were manufactured they pulled the entire collection from their website, this is because some people in the arts in the US do not approve of the use of photoshop the way we do in the UK”. Palestinian artist Noel Jabbour also concerned himself with one million dollar houses in the US. But far from depicting beautiful, luxurious houses he has

created a set of three images of near skeletal houses that were never completed rising from a mist. They create a surreal atmosphere coupled with a sense of excess and wastage, the houses stand as permanent monuments to greed that follow on perfectly from Edgar Martins abandoned houses, they both reflect on the failed mortgage economy which influenced the current global financial crisis. To finish off the section on America, James Cassebere hand built models depicting fictional scenes from the American suburban dream. The pastel colours and perfect weather brings to mind the little town in Edward Scissorhands that depict perfect happiness, but like the film, on closer inspection the

cracks and flaws prove that all is not well in paradise. The exhibition is very informative and gives you much food for thought regarding the economy and perhaps how we got into the situation we find ourselves. If you are interested in sociology and sociological concerns this exhibition will not disappoint, it perfectly depicts life in the metropolis and everything that goes along with it from density to complete and anonymity and isolation. The images and installations have been meticulously picked and put together to create a flow and narrative between each section which is easy to follow; this also helps stop pretentiousness and confusion.

Text by: Laura Silman Image by: Greg Girard, House on Huashan Lu, 2005

HOME OR AWAY? ARE UK GRADUATES PREPARED TO SACRIFICE HOME COMFORTS FOR WORK ABROAD? By Jade Scott

t’s a nervy time to be a student right now. Even the optimist can be left struggling to see the sunrays from beneath the clouds when news streams carrying messages of economic doom and gloom, rising university fees and free labour policies (known by some as internships) dominate our screens. When Brazil knocked Britain out of the top 5 strongest ranked economies in the world last Christmas and the Eurozone crisis began to blight our shores, talk of the West’s decline evolved from banter to an unsettling reality. Brazil, China and Dubai not only boast banking prowess and top property development stakes but it now also plays host to major media establishments like Reuters, Time Out, and Grazia. For emigrants, these countries are fast becoming the new Mecca of prosperity and present the opportunity to develop a burgeoning career. Given the economic backdrop you might have thought, rather sensibly, that UK grads would be looking further afield for professional prospects. Instead only 2 per cent of British graduates move overseas for work after completing university. Not only are UK students unlikely to look further afield after graduation but they’re also the recipients of another title. Last year British students were the least represented group in Europe on the Erasmus study abroad scheme, says Graduate Prospects, the UK’s biggest careers advice and jobs service for students. If signs are indicating that the nectar could be sweeter on the other side of the pond, why are us Brits reluctant to move towards the honey? Charlie Ball, a senior advisor at Graduate Prospects, believes that poor foreign language skills are preventing UK grads from seeking opportunities away from home. “Whilst English-speaking countries like the US and Australia are relatively popular, countries with escalating economies but very strong cultural differences, like Brazil and Turkey, seem to be putting our graduates off from moving away from home,” he explains. Tanita Satchwell, a 22 year-old graduate from The University of Birmingham, is one of the two percent who chose to leave a comfortable life in the UK behind in exchange for a new one teaching

English in rural Hong Kong. Her new life is a big departure from the one she was accustomed to in Birmingham but she hopes that the transition will better her future prospects. “There are so many things to do here,” she enthuses. “I’ve been horseracing, seen the big Buddha, been to the tallest peak in Hong Kong and can hop on a train to mainland China in less than 20 minutes.” Whilst some may consider Tanita’s move to be daring. She is quick to point out that she shared the same anxieties as other graduates when it came down to language and culture. “My main concerns were with not speaking Cantonese and I was also concerned about cultural differences,” she reflects. “Since I only knew one other person out here I was also worried about the potential for loneliness.” Language was never an issue when Lucas Radicella spent a year studying in Paris. Unlike many UK students, Lucas, a BA Contemporary History and Journalism pupil at Queen Mary University in London, has multi nationalities and speaks French and Spanish fluently. He says that proficiency in the host language is not necessarily a deal breaker when it comes to making the most out of a placement abroad. “Whilst a lack of language skills can limit the experience in terms of interaction with native speakers, one of my mates spoke no French at all and got by very well because of the Anglophone friendly administration system at the host university,” he recalls. For Lucas, the experience he gained from studying political Science and Journalism at a top school in Paris was invaluable. “It had such a direct influence on me that I’m considering going back there,” he explains. “It also gave me a lot of contacts in the journalism world.” Studying abroad certainly hasn’t soured Lucas’s taste for a career across international lines.After graduation he is hoping to either continue his education at MA level studying Development at Sciences-Politiques Paris or start an internship at an English speaking newspaper in his native Argentina. However all may not be lost for Brits who decide not to go away during university. Although some may contest that our reluctance to take up opportunities away from home is a disadvantage in today’s global markets, Lucas

“ Strong

cultural differences seem to be putting our graduates off moving abroad”

Image by: 1.City University Press 2.Tajha Myer- Ferreira 3. City University Press 4. City University Press

takes a different attitude. “The UK has some brilliant universities so staying at home isn’t really a disadvantage,” he claims. This feeling is also mirrored by Charlie Ball of Prospects, who believes that a British education and experience in the UK job markets are desirable. “Despite the recession, we still have a relatively strong graduate employment market, which is faring better than a lot of other European countries,” he says. Marlon Gray, a senior careers advisor at City University also believes that experience in the UK is preferential. “Many international students here at City desire experience in the UK before they go back to their native countries. It seems that work experience in the UK is highly valued internationally.” When Carrie Buckle moved thousands of miles

away to take a role as deputy editor at Harper’s Bazaar Dubai, she found the transition easier than anticipated when she discovered that her colleagues were of a similar background. After working solidly in the UK market and building a repertoire in journalism she made the transition to Dubai when she had enough experience. Having experienced the benefits of taking a job overseas she advises that others take a gamble and do the same. “Grab any opportunities that come your way and don’t be afraid to follow a lesstrodden path if it feels right,” she says. “There are job opportunities out there - so go for it! You’ll make some great friends, experience living and working abroad and you’ll have some amazing adventures along the way.”

sPEAK EASY

as technology shrinks the world, you can travel around the world without a plane ticket

Our world is shrinking; the barriers that held us back from experiencing cultures beyond our own have long been broken. We can eat authentic Lebanese cuisine with a glass of Australian wine, while watching a 1950s French noir film on a state of the art Korean television, sat in the living room of a New York apartment if we so choose. Whether it’s fashion, music, food, news or even just inspiration, the things we want from around the world are usually either a few clicks or a short journey away. Of course this is nothing new, and there are an infinite number of variations to the scenario I just described. New technological advancements, decreasing transportation costs and the liberalisation of international trade over the

last 50 years have all helped with making interconnectivity between countries seamless - the world shows no signs of slowing its shrinking process. English is the “lingua franca” of the 21st century; it’s the dominant language of the Internet and a basic requirement when pursuing a career in politics, business or medicine. Mandarin Chinese still holds the number one spot for the most native speakers of any language, with around 874,000,000 native speakers. English is a distant third at 341,000,000 but has the most countries where it’s spoken, adding to the reasons why it’s such an integral part of communication. We can’t all invest the time or money in language lessons that don’t guarantee fluency once they’ve ran their

course, so what does this mean for a 21-year-old male from London who wants to learn Japanese? I can’t afford a ticket to travel to Tokyo, so I brought it to London in my bedroom. Millions of people can dive head first into a culture of their choice without leaving their home country, I do this by taking advantage of our shrinking world, by surrounding myself with Japanese culture. The fact that you can learn not just rudimentary phrases based on staged situations but the gestures, nuances and faux pas of a culture while on the other side of the world is a testament to how close we are globally. Technology is enabling, but our globalised world is what exposed me to Japanese culture in the first place and allowed me to chase

after my interests so quickly and easily. No one explained to me that it could make me more hireable. Employment was never the motive. I began studying simply because of my fascination with Japanese culture, and all the material was right there for the taking. Step into my room and you’ll instantly notice my personal micro-japan, I’ve been able to sculpt a small world in my bedroom that allows me as much exposure to Japanese as possible. The idea is to create a similar experience to that of a small child picking up their native tongue from the environment around them. Rather than learning rehearsed responses based on very specific, rigid situations, you hear the real language used

by native speakers in the way it’s intended, fast and unsympathetic. No classes, DVD lesson packages or online courses compare to the real thing, so why wait when it’s so easy to access? This isn’t just post-it notes and the odd revision session, but changing as much as you can dare to sacrifice into your new language including the books and material you read, the language your computer runs in, the websites you visit and television you watch. It’s quite a drastic lifestyle change and not a common method of studying, but alongside good old fashioned study, I can’t begin to imagine how much I’d be missing out if this microenvironment I’ve developed wasn’t possible. Since there are so many

millions of songs, websites and television programs made in Japanese for native speakers, I never have a shortage of learning material available to me. To switch to a Japanese lifestyle and still maintain relationships with things outside of the cultural gates I’ve created at my bedroom door is sometimes difficult, but replacing so many small elements with their Japanese counterparts means that the language is woven into my lifestyle rather than shoehorned in for an hour a day. While I still have a long way to go before fluency, it’s exciting to know that there are young people of all nationalities out there able to do exactly what I’m doing, thanks to our shrinking world.

INDIVIDUALISM

the pursuit of individual rather than common interests in·di·vid·u·al·ism (in-duh-vij-oo-uh-liz-uhm) -noun

copy paste fashion Leading fashion designer, bronywn cosgrave discusses fashion’s individuality crisis

Coco Chanel once said that : “The most courageous act of all is to think for oneself.” Where the internet is awash with gutsy individuals from all over the world who display quirky, daring ensembles on daily style blogs, the same can’t really be said for fashion on the streets. Distinguishing from one person to another in today’s ‘As Seen on Screen’ generation is becoming a bit of a challenge. Rapid catwalk replicas, ranging from gladiator sandals to harem pants and boyfriend blazers, consistently saturate the high street and only serve as a reminder of this generation’s addiction to fast fashion. But if personal style bloggers have resurrected self-expression on the net, why is it that we aren’t seeing the same level of creativity and authenticity translated

at street level? Are we, like Chanel suggested, lacking the extra gusto that it takes to embrace our inner individual or is it down to the fact that it’s far easier to replicate than create? Bronwyn Cosgrave, a leading fashion journalist and global brand consultant, explains how personal style has reached such a point of uniformity. “Well one thing’s for sure, individualism is a luxury today,” she says matter of factly. Bronwyn, who has documented trends as they’ve come and gone in the pages of British Vogue and The Independent, blames the downfall of the individual in part to our increasing fascination with the celebrity culture. “Since the dawn of the millennium, celebrities have been built up to be fashion icons. When the fashion

industry cottoned on to this and started to use this status to promote their brands, consumers took a real interest in what they saw draped on celebrities in magazines and on the net,” she explains. “Whilst celebs gained out of the situation, our sense of self expression seems to have been lost in the process.” Although she acknowledges that there has been a backlash against the culture of celebrity, with some conscious consumers opting to buy into lesser known brands, she says that these people still represent the minority. She cites the rise of the ‘mega’ high street store as another reason for uninspired fashion picks. “Franchises have totally changed the way that we access fashion. Stores like Uniqlo are inexpensive and have branches in most major cities in the world. You really

can’t argue with convenience,” she concedes. Consumers aren’t the only ones who are attracted by the high street prowessdesigners have been equally drawn in by the allure of the ‘mega’ high street store over the past few years. High street giants like H&M were given a huge boost by partnerships with luxury brands like Jimmy Choo, Victor & Rolf and Versace, making them even more ‘compelling’ to buy into. “Today it’s likely that a person in London will end up wearing the same denim leggings as somebody in Tokyo, so in a sense genuine individualism is a rarity,” says Cosgrave reflecting on the hidden impact of high street. If the quest for individuality is not challenging and time consuming enough it can also come with a hefty price

tag. Cosgrave says that our present style stalemate is hardly surprising given the harsh economic backdrop. “Safe and practical items always sell in recessionary times,” she explains. “You only have to look at the ballet pump, which sells everywhere from Zara to Tony Burch to Louis Vuitton. They were first considered to be a viable footwear option during the Second World War because they were inexpensive.” Although the credit crunch has delivered a crushing blow to most purses over the years, does that mean to say that we should throw the towel in and resign ourselves to a fate filled with unadventurous outfits? The answer, according to Bronwyn, is a resounding no and she is quick to offer a thrifty and practical solution to our creativity woes: “I think women

should go back to making their own clothes, or if that’s not your cup of tea, support your local dressmaker,” she suggests. Bronwyn also endorses the ‘going shopping in your own wardrobe’ idea which was dreamt up by Grazia journalists at the height of the recession. “The going shopping in your own wardrobe idea is a great way to save money and encourage individualism,” she enthuses. It prompts each person to evaluate what they own and wear it, rather than to go out and buy more fast fashion.” Like Chanel famously said, listening to the inner individual isn’t easy. Whilst the task certainly hasn’t been made any simpler by our infatuation with fast fashion, the solution, like Bronwyn suggested, may lie deep within us. Text by: Jade Scott Image by: Kris Keys

GLOBAL STREETSTYLE HAS tHE GLOBALISATION OF STREETSTYLE RUINED THE INNOCENCE OF FASHION ON THE STREETS?

Globalisation refers to the international circulation of money, goods, ideas and of course, style. The internet, with it’s powers of democratisation and discourse, flung open the doors on the conversation in fashion allowing a teenager from a small town in Argentina to see what people in New York were wearing and emulate it, participating in the conversation through comments. Whilst a person from the Philippines could update their ‘weblog’ with their fashion favourites and in a few years be sitting next to Anna Wintour at fashion shows (Bryanboy). As the conversation in fashion expanded, lenses turned away from what models were wearing on the catwalk and waited outside the fashion tents to see what the average

person was wearing on the street. It’s another, more modern world of fashion that inspires readers and allows emulation as opposed to envy. Think of it as peer-to-peer style sharing. In recent times street style seems like it is more about the fashion and less about the reality of style on the street. It used to be about no name photographers like Tommy Ton, Scott Schuman, David Newton and Phil Oh shooting what average people wore on the streets, but as those photographers turn into celebrities themselves, they’re spending more time shooting for a publication than their own sites with the subjects growing more self-aware in their fashion choices. Tommy Ton is a regular on GQ.com and Style.com

whilst other street style photographers shoot for Grazia, Vogue ITALIA, UK and US, ELLE etc. These fashion publications rushed to be in on what is going on in the street and snapped up the best photographers to shoot fashionable people in what could be seen as a less obvious, easy and inexpensive way of pleasing advertisers online. @cheriecity asked on twitter; “Is fashion week photography really ‘street style’ if everyone is congregated for a fashion event?” Well, no, but it’s like all conglomeration of streetstyle in one handy event. People come together to enjoy and participate in fashion, only dressed impeccably, more so than usual but then again fashion week is twice a year. Fashion week must-shoots

include models, celebrities and fashion editors. Anna Dello Russo was relatively unknown in terms of her work, editing Vogue Japan but her penchant for her off the runway looks made her a surefire favourite with photographers. Others including Olivia Palermo, editor of Tank Caroline Issa, models Abbey Lee Kershaw, Jourdan Dunn, Karlie Kloss and Natasha Poly whilst no veritable blog fail to feature fashion males Nickelson Wooster, Joncarlo, Eugene Tong and Hamish Bowles. Outside the fashion weeks each city has a street style hotspot, the place people go to be snapped and the place where photographers go to find well-dressed people. Its this sort of dress up for the street that leads to people who are too self-aware in

these areas (Shoreditch, Brixton or Soho), forfeiting the fortuitous nature of streetstyle and turning it into a more planned, conscious style show on the pavements. Many Londoners become street style regulars but is this because they genuinely have style or they’re just dressing for attention? It could be that street style hasn’t been ruined by globalization as it was the birth child of it, but what is now happening is that it’s own success is starting to ruin it. Coltrane Curtis from Epiphany Media once said: “All cool things come from the hood. If you’re able to see the trends before they happen, then you have an advantage.” Those who shoot streetstyle and do it well are taking universal language–photos and presenting it to the world

allowing a conversation on style to happen amongst the masses, changing the way those at the top of fashion who have always looked to the streets for inspiration, see those same people. Despite the homogenisation of style aided by fast fashion, if you look away from some of the more contrived personal style blogs and the look-at-me fashionistas on the street, you can see that young people around the world remain interested with individual selfexpression. Vintage, one-offs and do-ityourself customizations are all coming back into what people want and expect, because although we are all the same, we are different. It’s all about drawing a distinction between two intrinsic human desires: to fit in and to stand out.

Text by: Cleide Cardoso Image by: Cleide Cardoso

STREET

As a firm believer in ‘don’t knock it till you’ve tried it’ I decided I would put shooting street style to the test and took my camera out on the second day of London Fashion Week for some action. It was definitely difficult, with dozens of photographers ready to pounce for their image, one needs to be ready and adamant to get the winning shot, because come rain or shine (and it rained plenty), photo editors want a crisp image!

Toronto

Top Cities for streetstyle

Los Angeles Portrait of myself

New York

Sao Paolo

STYLE WHEN: 18 FEBRUARY 2012 WHERE: LONDON FASHION WEEK A/W12 - SOMERSET HOUSE WITH: ABOUT A HUNDRED OTHER PHOTOGRAPHERS COMMISSIONED TO SNAP THE MOST STYLISH ATTENDEES OF THE WEEK

Photographer for the day

Copenhagen

Stockholm Tokyo

London

Paris

Milan Shanghai

Sydney

Images by: Portrait: Adrian Morales, Snappylifestyle.com, Photo: Madeleine Triebe. Streetstyle: Cleide Cardoso

KUA ’AINA

WHERE? KUA ‘AINA FOUBERT’S PLACE LONDON W1F 7PP OPEN 7 DAYS 8AM - 10:30PM

The original Kua’Aina flipped its first flame-grilled burger back in 1975, and has been serving the same famous food for 35 years. To true native Hawaiians the word kua’aina represents those who respect Hawaiian culture and keep the spirit and tradition alive. Kua’Aina isn’t the typical over-themed, overpriced affair we are used to in London; you can tell it wasn’t meticulously devised in some corporate office or whipped up on The Apprentice. This is honest, hearty food straight from Hawaii that hasn’t been lost in translation. Kua’Aina offer a choice of sensibly priced burgers weighing in at either 1/3lb or 1/2lb. You have the expected Monterey Jack, Swiss cheese and bacon embellishments to play with and also exotic toppings including grilled pineapple, haloumi and avocado. The handmade burgers come straight off the grill and onto a soft sesame seed bun with fresh salad, next to what I can only describe as an entire carrot sitting on the side. Their grilled sandwiches almost steal the whole show. Chargrilled teriyaki chicken or Ahi Tuna steak with ortega chilli and grilled peppers should make decisions extremely easy. The fries are hot, salty and crunchy just like they’re supposed to be. My advice is to get a large basket and share if you’re dining out with a friend since portions are generous. American style pancakes, organic cakes and frozen yoghurt are also on offer for the sweet-toothed. Seating is a bit sparse but to be honest this isn’t a full-blown Hawaiian dining extravaganza - the wooden furniture and homely decor straight from Honolulu is spot on, there is even a picture of Obama before his presidency chowing down on a halfpounder. Kua’Aina is a charming, wallet friendly spot. Nestled on Foubert’s Place, it’s a much-needed addition, and you can count on it becoming one of your favourite places to eat, especially this summer! SABIEN FLINT

LEFT: Images and Text by Sabien Flint Right: Images and Text by Sheena Thacker

BUBBLEOLOGY Bubble tea, foam tea, paomo hongcha, no matter what you call it this ‘teavolution’ has snuck in through the alleys of chinatown and into the centre of Soho. Becoming a popular pit stop for thirsty passersby, Bubbleology has quickly become a top attraction in the area. Now you may be wondering what it is that makes this tea one of a kind. Well if you know tea to be drank out of a cup and held by a saucer, you might want to think again. It is believed that the origins of its most popular name, Bubble tea, came from the small bubbles which were formed after the vigorous shaking took place in order to mix all the juicy flavours together. The birth of this enchanting beverage is Taiwan, where it was believed to be discovered in the early 1980s by two hopefuls who both claimed to be the first to come up with the idea. Liu Chie, the owner of ‘Chun Shui Tang teahouse’ in the city of Taichung experimented with cold milk tea by adding a variety of fruits and syrups, while only a stones throw away the owner of ‘Hanlin Teahouse’ in Tainan was doing pretty much the same thing! The cold beverage comes in milk or fruit flavours infused with everything from strawberry to passion fruit, honeydew, almond or kumquat and mixed with a handful of tapioca balls. These bubbles of boiled potato starch taste like Gummi Bears and should be sucked through the oversized straw and chewed while you drink. With 8,000 bubble tea cafes in Taiwan alone, this new phenomenon has quickly spread to all corners of the globe. Drink in or take out from the mad scientistinspired space filled with gurgling test tubes and a blackboard full of unscientific equations, Bubbleology is certain to quench your thirst.

WHERE? BUBBLEOLOGY 49 RUPERT’S STREET LONDON W1D 7PF OPEN 7 DAYS 11AM - 11:30PM

SHEENA THACKER

TOP FIVE STRANGEST FOODS KNOWN TO MAN CRUSHED CANARD

KOPI LUWAK

4 How about a cup of the World’s most expensive coffee? Kopi Luwak is made from the excrements of an Indonesian cat-like creature - the Luwak. It eats only the ripest coffee cherries but it can’t digest the beans inside them, so they come out whole. The strong coffee is encased in stomach acid and excrement giving it a sickening aroma. Still want that cuppa?

Canard à la rouennaise sounds sexy right? Well if you knew what it meant your stomach would turn. Canard is a French dish comprising of succulent duck served in a rich helping of its own blood. The carcass of the duck is put in the press and crushed until the juice from the organs runs into the dish. Bon appétit!

PICKLED MICE

CAZU MARZU

Imagine eating cheese that tries to eat you first, unbelievable right? In Sardinia the cheese really does bite. Casu marzu is served riddled with writhing maggots that try to jump into your eyeballs as you eat it. The maggots can jump as far as 15 centimetres so diners might need goggles!

Eating mice can be rather nice! Fancy a huge helping of skinless baby mice encased in a jelly of blood and guts and mucus. They say you shouldn’t play with your food but in this case you’ll be excused

1. Images by fxcuisine 2. Images by National Geographic 3. Imageby CBS news 4. Images by Tim Hill 5. Images by Bronzechef

CODFISH SPERM The words sperm and meal shouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t go together but in Asia they do. This disastrous dish is served with soy sauce, fresh spring onions and most importantly cod fish sperm. The sticky brain-like substance will leave you wanting more. MARY OLUWAWO

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