WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 THE PEOPLE ECOMONY IN NUMBERS
A W A R D S L A N D
R OV E R
7 TH EDITION
B O R N
the
R
E
C
T
N
I
D
U
I
O
S
M
THE NEW RANGE ROVER VELAR
NO HEADLINE REQUIRED landrover.com
Official fuel consumption figures for the Range Rover Velar range in l/100km (mpg): Urban 6.2–12.7 (45.6–22.2), Extra urban 4.9–7.5 (57.7–37.7), Combined 5.4–9.4 (52.5–30.1). CO2 emissions g/km: 142–214. Official EU Test Figures. For comparison purposes only. Real world figures may differ. Drive responsibly on and off-road.
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 THE PEOPLE ECOMONY IN NUMBERS
ad farnborough or tag aviation
Le sac Le Huit
#LeHuitbyLancel
LANCEL_IRIS_BORN_297x420.indd 1
22/06/2017 11:06
cel
6/2017 11:06
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 CREATIVITY IS THE GATEWAY TO DESIRABILITY 7
uit
CREATIVITY IS THE GATEWAY TO DESIRABILITY
Where design lives
London
#designmuseum
SEE IT. LOVE IT.
W
hen we think of cognac, we think of it as something only enjoyed after dinner by greying men in suits. But now, Hennessy is single-handedly shattering that perception. How? Through clever thinking and beautiful
design. They commissioned Marc Newson to rethink the Hennessy carafe. The result takes the traditional Hennessy bottle and simplifies it: it is intelligent, it is ergonomic and for the first time, it is strikingly contemporary. Design is everywhere. It is how we communicate. And it is at a turning been. Design is at our fingertips—from the aspirational world contained in a single Instagram post to the growing importance of the creative sector. Good design is for all. At BORN, it is our ongoing mission to champion creativity across fashion, technological innovation, beauty and cosmetics, home design and now even food. Because what is the act of inventing and presenting dishes, if not a form of design? As I say, design is everywhere. Another example I frequently cite is Jean-Claude Biver, president of the watches division at LVMH. He recognised that the brand that sold the most watches globally was not a watch brand at all: it was Apple. It was his vision to collaborate with Google to implement its smart watch software within the beloved face of TAG Heuer, and a true contender was born. Design is innovation. It is this spirit of combining beauty and functionality that is consistent across each of the 65,000 brands in our database. And it is this spirit that we at BORN have made it our mission to nurture, both through born. com, where we support and recognise creators, and through the Land Jean-Christophe Chopin Founder and CEO of BORN Founder of the Land Rover BORN Awards Photo by Hamid Bechiri
Rover BORN Awards. All of this is made possible through our partnership with Land Rover, a brand that truly lives and breathes intelligent design. That’s why this year we’ve launched BORN Conversations, a new initiative to connect designers across our five categories to learn from one another. The way we see it, if watch designers only speak to watch designers, where is the friction? Where are the sparks? But if a watch designer speaks to a developer? Then we have something like the ingenuity of Mr. Biver’s smart watches. BORN Conversations will create a forum for meaningful cross-disciplinary discussion, and we look forward to seeing where the future will take it. Indeed, this is the truest demonstration of our endeavour: a community of like-minded individuals striving for the next frontier of innovation, and high functioning beauty.
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 SEE IT. LOVE IT. 9
point. We as a society are more design-literate now than we have ever
MODERNISM
A CREATIVE REVOLUTION
AGNES MARTIN - THE EGG
M
odernism is a philosophy that manifests itself in many ways. In the devices we use, the furniture we relax on, the architecture we’re surrounded by and the vehicles we drive, every day we enjoy the efforts of designers and
artists to distill their creations into something essential. But the reductive nature implicit in modernism hasn’t always reigned. Bursting into popular culture and consciousness in the mid-1960s, a reductive approach rippled out from visual arts into music, architecture and design — and it’s still evolving today. WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 MODERNISM 11
In the early twentieth century, a new breed of art began to appear, with artists like Kazimir Malevich and Yves Klein offering a radically new abstract approach. But it wasn’t until the ‘60s that it really gained momentum, spawning a generation of uncompromising artists like Agnes Martin and Donald Judd. Rebelling against the extravagance of Pop Art, Impressionism and psychedelia, their work was imaginatively spartan and deceptively simple. Seizing upon this new aesthetic, designers began to apply its rigour to their own work. Italian designer A.G. Fronzoni explained, «I detest everything that is superfluous, surplus, redundant, all forms of waste,» using this passion for efficiency to design the Quadra lamp, Series ‘64 furniture pieces, and even a magazine, Casabella (typeset in every reductist’s favourite typeface, Helvetica, naturally). Those beautifully sparse objects found their natural homes in buildings designed by similarly disciplined architects like German-American Ludwig Mies van der Rohe and Mexico’s Luis Barragán, who expressed his belief in the power of restrained design to elicit emotion by saying, «Any work of architecture which does not express serenity is a mistake.»
LUDWIG MIES VAN DER ROHE - KNOLL
DONALD JUDD - UNTITLED
But the empty spaces and streamlined forms of these structures weren’t a completely new invention, however fresh their new permutations. In Weimar Germany, the Bauhaus school had created a philosophy, as well as a design vernacular, in which an object’s function was in complete harmony with its form, spurning any unnecessary ornamentation. Around the same time, just across the border, the Dutch De Stijl movement saw artists and architects striving to simplify their creations to the barest essentials of form and colour. Their preoccupations weren’t altogether new, either, drawing on traditions of Japanese design for its meticulously reductive design philosophy. Modernism bloomed again in the 1990s, a backlash against the ostentatious consumption and decoration of the previous decade. Calvin Klein’s austere fashion and Jonathan Ive’s spectacular tech devices for Apple bore all the hallmarks of the intellectual rigour and sensual appreciation from decades earlier. Ive’s creations were even commended by
WALTER GROPIUS - BAUHAUS DESSAU
legendary Braun designer Dieter Rams for upholding his reductionist manifesto, penned nearly 30 years before the iRevolution arrived. Once again, restraint rules -- and this time, it’s taken root; Rachel Whiteread the heir apparent to Donald Judd’s spartan sculptural legacy, Tadao Ando the standard-bearer for Mies van der Rohe’s brutally simple buildings. Reductionism is no longer simply an artistic endeavour, but a lifestyle choice encompassing principles of sustainability, longevity and refinement. Discerning consumers seek out products that serve a purpose but also prompt pleasure, from mainstream brands like MUJI to the pinnacle of industrial design visible in this year’s Range Rover Velar. Unveiled at the John Pawson-designed Design Museum in London (itself a temple to modernism), Chief Design Officer Gerry McGovern explained his ambition to bring «a new dimension of modernity and total commitment to design and engineering excellence» to bear. Both an homage to the iconic Land Rover of old, and an illumination of new horizons, the Velar is an apt metaphor and a bold manifesto for this ever-evolving concept of reductive design. CLARE AITKEN
RACHEL WHITEREAD - TATE MODERN
LUDWIG MIES VAN DER ROHE - BARCELONA PAVILLON
JOHN PAWSON - CASA DELLE BOTTER
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 REDUCTIONISM 13
In Cannes, Cartier’s new ship sails on purity.
T
hat the latest Cartier boutique would open in Cannes based on a yacht was never in doubt in the mind of interior designer Bruno Moinard, born in Normandy and fascinated by the seaside ever since, with its carved sandscapes ever evol-
ving through the constant work of the waves. For this new opening, which represents the next chapter of a 15-year
partnership between the designer and Cartier that has so far given rise to 350 stores worldwide, it is from his Norman origins and the region’s milky alabaster coasts that Moinard draws his love of light, strong lines, transparency and the essential nature of things. With Claire Bétaille and their studio 4Bl & Associates, Moinard transposed this inspiration onto Cartier’s new vessel, moored invitingly on the Cannes Croisette, with generosity and subtlety. Bringing together perfectly both the brand’s symbols and the azure vocabulary of the Mediterranean bathed in sunlight,
On board, one can serenely contemplate the gleaming gems held in
the swells and the jewels sparkle in unison. We are going on a cruise, to
the extraordinarily light, made-to-measure display cases, or simply dream
live an exceptional journey.
of the horizon depicted in tableaux displayed as portholes. A new lease of life has been breathed through the place: the Cannes shop is a pioneer
tone: its refined geometry recalls shrouds and it hoists the sails and dissi-
for 4Bl & Associates’ newly redrawn and modernised concept. On the
mulates what is behind. Beyond the immaculate hull of the shopfront, one
jewel sets and display cases, the seats and tables, all the edges vanish and
discovers the heart of the ship.
the corners soften, as if they were pebbles made soft by the flow of water.
The interior space is modelled after curves, waves and unfolding lines;
The salons are ornamented with lighting and decorative items evoking
modelled as a yacht sailing on the nearby Mediterranean. A monumental
nautical instruments. Brilliance and softness of profile reign supreme.
bas-relief gives structure to the entrance, undulating with waves and or-
The nobility of the materials (larch, elm, sycamore) dresses the place and
namented with foliage, whose shadows are cast on the sand.
discreetly magnifies the sumptuous jewels that shine over the varnished
The iconic panther lurks within the immense work of art, and breathes Cartier’s spirit through the building, which is intimate and open at the same time. The path through the store is punctuated with pillars, erected as boats’ masts that give a comforting stability. Always, the sea and its soft lapping, the reflections off its surface, and its vibrations can be felt through the large chandelier, whose brass finish in champagne and bronze colours shimmers to mirror the different appearances of the water. If the jewellery, diamond and watch areas within the boutique are arranged as a boat’s cabins, then the VIP salon is the captain’s domain. This unique and privileged room is an intimate cocoon where everything is preciosity and comfort, floating and anchored, a salon prepared to set sail and take Cartier to unexplored climes.
surfaces and diffuse their brightness and purity. More than a new concept, Bruno Moinard and Claire Bétaille offer at Cartier Cannes a true invitation to travel! ALIX FADE
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 IN CANNES, CARTIER’S NEW SHIP SAILS ON PURITY 15
Nesting in a façade filled with light, the porthole shopfront sets the
range rover velar
making its international debut at london’s design museum, the new range rover velar is a masterpiece of reductive, innovative and emotive design. deriving its name from land rover’s first, secret prototype in 1969 (the name means
“to veil or cover”), it’s a fitting heir to that spirit of british innovation.
less is much, much more
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 RANGE ROVER VELAR 17
T
he assembled crowd was hushed as the shroud cloaking the Velar was pulled back at the packed launch. Here was something somehow completely in keeping with Land Rover’s esteemed British heritage yet wholly unexpected.
Low-slung muscular, and elegant, its unobtrusive exterior and powerful proportions imbue it with a sense of quiet potency. And although it inherits the brand’s design integrity and engineering excellence, it’s a vehicle that reveals a new dimension of modernity.
GERRY MCGOVERN AND THE VELAR - LONDON DESIGN MUSEUM MACROPHOTOGRAPHY - VELAR REAR LIGHT - GARY BRIAN
RANGE ROVER VELAR FIRST PROTOTYPE - THE OLD AND THE NEW
With its clean-sheet design and cutting-edge technology under the hood and behind the wheel, the Velar is undeniably intelligent design, but it’s a car that elicits an immediate emotional response first and foremost. Its exterior is intriguing – the side profile is exceptionally streamlined thanks to recessed door handles that pop out when needed – and copper burnishes the front bumper blades and fender vents. The floating roof and continuous waistline single it out as a part of the Range Rover family, but the DNA is distilled into something that’s more confident and elegant than anything that’s come before. But it’s the interior that sparks the greatest awe: modern, refined, and undeniably luxurious, it manages to evoke a sense of sanctuary by stripping out superfluous complexity. Gone are obtrusive buttons and displays. Instead, you find a seamless console comprising hidden-until-lit controls and two 10-inch touchscreens used to intuitively navigate information, entertainment and safety enhancing features. Seats are crafted from fine leather or sustainable, premium textiles developed by Kvadrat. Little wonder, then, that the Telegraph says it “represents a noticeable shift in the way car interiors are put together... [it’s] the best car interior ever”. It can afford to be this beautiful because it’s smart, too. Designers liken the in-car technology to a ‘digital butler’, which learns your personal preferences and tailors your driving experience to suit, as well as helping you effortlessly contend with traffic and weather conditions. ‘Less is more’
Minimalism can sometimes be a synonym for sterility in design. But in
is an apt summary of its efficiency too, with fewer emissions and lower fuel
the case of the Velar, the distillation of the Range Rover essence evokes a
consumption for even better performance.
visceral response, a quickened heartbeat. Anything unnecessary to refined enjoyment has been omitted, and what’s left is what Forbes describes as “pure pleasure: visual, emotional, intellectual.” It’s nearly 50 years since that first Range Rover, the Velar’s namesake, emerged and changed driving, and design, forever. Five decades on, this Velar is a fantastic evolutionary leap forwards from its ancestor, no less radical and even more thrilling.
Range Rover Velar interior
THE
A
lthough BORN looks at design from all corners of the world, the theme of July’s Land Rover BORN Awards takes a hint from Scandinavian design principles. This year we celebrate reductionism, that masterful distillation of complexity into simple, functional beauty. Following the success of a winter event on the slopes of Courchevel, this year we bring the Land Rover BORN Awards to the beautiful town of Ålesund, on Norway’s west coast. This rugged landscape is the ideal place for 300 visiting journalists to test-drive the Range Rover Velar, a car hailed for the beauty of its form and its software that acts as an in-car butler. After their drive, an interactive exhibition of this year’s award winners awaits. Every year, the Land Rover BORN Awards recognises ingenuity and innovation across nine categories that encapsulate design-led lifestyle: Technology & Innovation, Sustainable Design, Leisure Design, Home Design,
7th EDITION
Wellbeing, Design Objects, Bespoke Design, Architecture Design and Lifestyle Fashion. This year’s exhibition will give the winners the recognition and the exposure they deserve among some of the world’s top lifestyle journalists in the form of the inaugural BORN Conversations, the fledgling summit that will bring creative minds together from around the world and across the creative industries— after all, why not make the most of the unrivalled pool of design talent assembled in Ålesund? And of course, the Land Rover BORN Awards wouldn’t be complete without a party. We like to avoid the pomp of traditional award ceremonies. Instead, we follow the reductionism theme with a simple dinner: good food, good wine, good company. In between courses, each of the winners will be recognised with a one-minute video. No acceptance speeches necessary.
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 THE LAND ROVER BORN AWARDS 7TH EDITION 19
LAND ROVER BORN AWARDS 2627. JULY 2017 ALESUND NORWAY
"Our collaboration with BORN is based on a mutual conviction of the relevance of creativity in a challenging world" Dr Ralf Speth, CEO Jaguar Land Rover.
A W A R D S
R OV E R L A N D
THE
J U RY
B O R N JEAN-CHRISTOPHE CHOPIN co-president of the jury BORN Founder and CEO
Gerry McGovern studied for a Masters at the Royal College of Art in London. His early career took in stints at Chrysler, Peugeot and Rover Group. After a spell at Ford Motor Company heading up Lincoln-Mercury design in the USA, McGovern returned to the UK before re-joining Land Rover as Director, Advanced Design. Today his role has grown to include Chief Design Officer and membership of the Jaguar Land Rover Board of Directors. McGovern was responsible for guiding and envisioning the future of Land Rover which began with the Range Rover Evoque and was followed with the Range Rover, Range Rover Sport, Discovery Sport, Discovery and more recently the Range Rover Velar. McGovern is also an authority on modern architecture, furniture and contemporary art. In October 2014 he was appointed as a Visiting Professor at the Royal College of Art.
Driven by a love of adventure, Jean-Christophe Chopin’s formative years were spent as a ski instructor, before relocating to Los Angeles, where he quickly moved from selling housing bonds to acquiring TV rights. Returning to France at 26, he set up his own tech-driven insurance business, before seizing on the potential of the emerging internet and launching an online brokerage with E*TRADE, later spearheading the European and Asian expansions of Verisign. Pursuing twin passions for technology and design, he was an investor in the rebirth of Balmain and co-founded master watchmakers Hautlence. In 2011, he launched BORN, evolving it from a four-day event to a globally renowned creative platform and awards programme.
NICOLAS KENEDI Founder of L’Agence Francaise - iKoNE
DEBORAH SPENCER Founder of Design Junction
ADRIAN CHENG Founder K11 Art Foundation in China
Nicolas Kenedi has travelled around the world for 20 years, initiating meetings and projects for some of the most beautiful and highly-renowned international brands, convinced that the “contemporary luxury lifestyle” is better felt in real experience rather than simply defined by words. Having gained a wealth of experience from a number of adventures and a selection of prestigious addresses on an international scale, Kenedi created the structure of l’Agence Française. L’Agence Française dedicates itself each day to sustaining the wishes of its clients: to establish a unique and relevant point of view, to create a strategic and tactical vision and to ensure lasting, efficient communication for the biggest participants in the respective worlds of design, watchmaking, fashion, the hotel trade, and gastronomy.
Deborah Spencer began her career at the Business Design Centre in 2002 where she worked on New Designers and the London Art Fair. In 2006, she moved to Greenwich Village and re-launched the Selfridges HOME department. She was also integral to the launch of SUPERDESIGN, held during the Frieze Art Fair. In 2008, Spencer joined Tom Dixon and launched the DOCK event in Ladbroke Grove. In 2010, she launched Spencer Projects, and soon attracted top brands Modus, The Apartment Gallery, Case Furniture, tokyobikes, FAO and Dezeen Watch Store. A year later she launched the TRAMSHED event in Shoreditch before establishing DESIGNJUNCTION, of which she is a managing director.
Adrian Cheng is the cultural entrepreneur and pioneer who created K11, a new “museum-retail” concept combining art and commerce, curating and building lifestyle projects in Greater China focusing on the art, community and sustainability. He also founded the K11 Art Foundation, a non-profit art foundation in China that incubates young contemporary Chinese artists and curators, and promotes art education. Despite growing up in Hong Kong, he also spent numerous years in the US, graduating from Harvard University with a Bachelor of Arts (Cum Laude) honours degree. He is a Board Member of the West Kowloon Cultural District Authority and M+ Museum, a Board Member of the Public Art Fund of New York and MoMA PS1, Trustee of Royal Academy of Arts, Member of TATE’s International Council and Member of International Circle of Centre Pompidou.
OLIVIA MARIOTTI Co-founder of the fashion and luxury branding agency REM
TOMMASO MICAGLIO Vice Chairman of Cose Belle d'Italia and CEO of Europa Investimenti
EVA JEANBART-LORENZOTTI Founder and CEO of Vivre, Voyager Spirit
Olivia Mariotti is recognised as one of the most respected ‘Branders’ in the fashion and luxury industry. She co-founded the award-winning fashion and luxury branding agency REM, leading the repositioning of globally renowned brands such as Bulgari, Gucci, Fendi and Valentino. She also cofounded the boutique five-star DOM Hotel in Rome and launched her own luxury candles and high-end perfumes brand, INSPIRITV. On the academic front, Mariotti is the Director of the Masters in Fashion Management at Rome’s LUISS University. Aside from this, her community work includes being on the advisory board of the London-based charity Cash & Rocket.
Tommaso Micaglio is Managing Director of Europa Investimenti, where he leads the Special Situations team. He is also Vice Chairman of Cose Belle d’ Italia, which is a group that aggregates Italian companies representing Made in Italy excellence. Prior to joining Europa Investimenti, Micaglio worked as Investment Director at DeA Capital SpA and General Manager of IDeA Alternative Investments SpA, acting as board member for several portfolio companies. Before this, he worked for MPS Banks group as Head of a Tech Incubator and as CEO of Hiknow SpA (a joint venture between Accenture and MPS focused on CRM and Marketing Services). Micaglio holds a B.A. in Business and Economics from Bocconi University.
Eva Jeanbart-Lorenzotti has been an influencer and innovator in the retail space for more than 20 years. Beginning her career as a banker, Swiss-born Lorenzotti spent nights and weekends conceptualizing what would become the world’s first shoppable magazine for luxury. Within a year, she launched Vivre, a print and digital magazine and e-commerce site filled with fashion, home and body accessories and engaging editorial content. Being named one of Vogue’s “ten most stylish women in fashion,” Lorenzotti has grown to become an unmatched curator of the global luxury lifestyle. Lorenzotti currently serves as a Senior Advisor for the Raine Group, identifying media, retail and lifestyle acquisitions for the private equity firm. In addition to this, her philanthropic endeavors have led her to serve on the boards of the Henry Street Settlement and the Young President’s Organization.
Ana is a strategist, writer and Doctor of Sociology. She is interested in the intersection of business, technology and creativity and is equally passionate about advising MIT Media Lab students on bringing their ideas to life as she is about observing the counterfeit luxury goods scene on New York’s Canal Street. Ana works with global luxury, fashion and lifestyle companies and helps them grow via experience and service design, brand strategy, data management, e-commerce, AI and M&A. Ana has been recognized as Luxury Women to Watch 2016 and the Guardian’s Top Ten Digital Strategists to Watch. She frequently contributes to industry publications and speaks at the international conferences. You can learn more about her work at www.andjelicaaa.com
ANNINA ROESCHEISEN German multimedia artist Annina Roescheisen is a multimedia artist, humanist and philanthropist. Her creative practice acts as a visual language that breaks down elitist thinking, illuminating empathy and human connections. Literature, music, and poetry serve as inspiration in her practice, namely through religious iconography, Medieval art, German Romanticism, Gothic architecture, and fairytales. Through various media, such as video and sculpture, it is her belief that art can advocate for social change.
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 THE JURY 21
ANA ANDJELIC Luxury Brand Strategist
GERRY MCGOVERN co-president of the jury Chief Design Officer Land Rover
WITHOUT THEIR SUPPORT, WE WOULDN’T BE ABLE TO CELEBRATE OUR 7TH EDITION!
THE BORN ULTIMATE AWARD IN 2013
Jury President, Tony Chambers from Wallpaper* Magazine with 3 awarded (Zinedine Zidane, artist Richard Orlinski and Shamballa jewelry designer Mads Kornerup)
=
THANK YOU
A B OV E & B E YO N D
THE
LAND ROVER BORN AWARDS 2627. JULY 2017 ALESUND NORWAY 300 QUALIFIED 38 NOMINEES
4BI & ASSOCIÉS LALIQUE/TERRY RODGERS BODO SPERLEIN BORROMEO & DE SILVA COAST SOCIETY VRAI & ORO NATIVE UNION SEABUBBLES NESCENS CASH & ROCKET ANTHONY DELON 1985 DESIGN BY GEMINI
AUSTERE AWAY SUPERPEDESTRIAN BLAZÉ MILANO CITCO CRU KAFE DEVIALET FAIR FAURÉ LE PAGE L’ORBE VODKA LIFEBEAM LOVE TURNTABLE MARC ANGE
18 FINALISTS
HENNESSY/MARC NEWSON MIA SUKI MYEQUILIBRIA NEWBLACK NOAH GUITARS OLIVER SPENCER OSKLEN PINEL & PINEL QUITLLET REVOLOGY KIKO/ROSS LOVEGROVE IL SAN PIETRO DI POSITANO SVO BIKES
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 THE FINALISTS 23
5,925 CREATORS AND BRANDS FROM 130 DIFFERENT COUNTRIES
w
i
n
n
e
Bruno Moinard
BRUNO MOINARD Bruno Moinard, interior architect, scenographer, designer, author, illustrator and painter, founded his agency 4BI in 1996. With a subtle, elegant, refined and yet warm style, he integrates French culture into each of his undertakings around the world. In 2002, Maison Cartier entrusted him with the creation and implementation of a new concept for its stores worldwide (340 such stores, to date). Another remarkable achievement is Château Latour in Pauillac, owned by François Pinault, whose renovation and remodelling was carried out in two phases in 2003 and 2015. In Paris, there has been Hermès’ headquarters (2007) and the Hôtel Plaza Athénée (2014); and in Reims, Hôtel Marc Veuve Clicquot (2011, for LVMH). His reputation has spread across Europe, with the Four Seasons Hotel in London (2015), and the Dorchester Hotel Eden in Rome (2017), and increasingly in Asia, especially in Japan and China with two hotels in Chengdu (2013).
THEME
France
ARCHITECTURE DESIGN
4BI ET ASSOCIÉS
r
BORN: What is reductionsim for you?
Bordeaux vineyard at Château Latour. Minimalism reigns over
BRUNO: Reductionism in interior design serves the creation of an imme-
the building: inside, the half-light adds to the fullness of the place
diate emotion, an instinctive feeling. It helps to transmit a concept without
with its walls, ceilings and floors in concrete. Its vat in stainless
the need of further explanation. It deals more with the impact provoked than
steel and granite edged with burgundy-coloured glass. Its carpentry in
with total aesthetic minimalism. Reductionism reaches its apex when technical
chestnut and bleached oak and its details in bronze. Small lamps floating
constraints fade to become invisible: then, only the message delivered stays
high in the cellars like little fireflies diffusing a mystical light.
clear and perceptible.
Twelve years later, Bruno Moinard and Claire Bétaille were entrusted with the extension of the domain. The courtyard was dug out and then
BORN: What is the role of creativity in your current work?
levelled to accommodate a second vat, a gigantic bottle facility and a
BRUNO: Creativity is the key to bringing a unique answer to a client’s request.
balcony for vintages sold in large-format bottles. In the new cellars the
That answer is built on listening, on context, on expectations, but most of all
light is concentrated on the asymmetric glass and concrete staircase with
on constraints. Entwined with creativity is the idea of space, of the impact
an interplay of materials and colours. Only the glass elevator breaks this
it will have. In reductionism, creativity is appropriate to each project, each
ambient darkness. The gradation of light tells the story of wine in a poetic
subject.
manner: the silence of its maturing and the slumbering of the bottles. The success of this place, with its atmosphere reviving the soul of a monastery, is to have blended the greatest simplicity with the utmost sophistication. Aside from Bruno Moinard and 4BI’s long-term collaboration with Cartier, Moinard has worked with Christie’s in the USA and Moet Hennesy in Paris, as well as Le Relais Plaza at the Plaza Athenée, Paris and The Grill at The Dorchester, London, (both with Alain Ducasse) as well as private residences in Mayfair, Monaco, Aoyama in Tokyo and France.
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 4BI & ASSOCIÉS 25
I
n 2003, 4Bl & Associés designed the cellars of the legendary
THEME
BESPOKE DESIGN
LALIQUE
France/USA Terry Rodgers Marc Larminaux
TERRY RODGERS AND MARC LARMINAUX Terry Rodgers is an American artist who works primarily in painting, with a strong interest in photography and film. Born in New Jersey in 1947, Rodgers is known internationally for his large-scale canvases focusing on contemporary body politics and image. Whilst initially alluring and erotic, his paintings belie an underlying sense of ennui and anxiety. Rodgers has New York and Chicago, as well as being shown at museums across the United States of America. Marc Larminaux has been working for Lalique since 2002, where he is currently Creative Director. An innovator, Marc holds an MA in Industrial Design from Central Saint Martins in London and a degree (BA) in ceramic and glass design from Olivier de Serres art school in Paris. He is also responsible for developing a completely unique and bespoke method of designing for Lalique involving digital sculpture and has spent the past ten years perfecting a system that is more about sculpture than 3D modelling.
w
T
i
n
n
e
r
erry Rodgers’ Sirènes vase represented somewhat unusual
Lalique has a selective and international distribution in 80 countries,
territory for the artist, usually known for his painting. The
with 50 shops and many more sales points worldwide. Lalique has also
artist had depicted Lalique pieces in some of his pain-
designed several interiors including projects for the cruise liners SS Paris,
tings, but his collaboration with the brand raised different
SS Ile de France, SS Normandie, Orient Express railroad cars, Shan-
challenges. Nonetheless, the female form, a common motif in Rodgers’
ghai’s Peace Hotel, the Oviatt Building in Los Angeles, and St Matthew’s
oeuvre (and indeed the Western tradition of art as a whole), provided the
Church, Jersey.
starting point for the design. He began by photographing nude models in his studio in Columbus,
BORN: What is reductionism for the creator?
Ohio, and then worked out a 3D montage of the shots around a base vase.
TERRY: Sometimes the simplest truth is overwhelmingly complex. To convey
Nine months of modelling the vase in clay followed, with the aim of produ-
a sense of visual, sensual and aural abundance, experience and richness,
cing a mould suitable for lost-wax casting. The final design comprised of
simplifying metaphors may clarify but they create a completely different
nine silhouettes whirling around the outside of the vase in a Bacchanalian
experience. The Sirènes vase is an attempt to bridge the gap between compli-
orgy of dance, calling to mind Greek mythology and visually alluding
cated individuals and a pure sense of rhythm and grace.
to René Lalique’s iconic Bacchantes vase of 1927 - though in Rodgers’ version, Lalique’s bacchantes became sirens, seductive creatures of the
BORN: What is the role of creativity in your current work?
sea that would lure sailors to their deaths on the rocks.
TERRY: My work is a response to the culture and experience of today’s
For the numbered edition of the Sirènes vase, clear crystal was pressed
mediated world. Inventing ways to render that response, as both personal
in a cast-iron mould, whilst the limited editions of eight pieces were
and shared, is always an exploration, a groping in the dark. It is seeking to
produced in black, midnight blue, green and violet crystal, before being
discover or uncover a fresh means of expression.
polished and buffed. The result? A vase that is enticing, sumptuous and elegant.
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 LALIQUE 27
exhibited in solo exhibitions in Brussels, Amsterdam, Zurich, Milan, LA,
THEME
HOME DESIGN
BODO SPERLEIN
Germany
Bodo Sperlein
BODO SPERLEIN Bodo Sperlein trained at the University of the Arts, London, where he studied Three Dimensional Design. He founded his product design consultancy on London’s creative South Bank in 2000. As well as designing his own collections, Bodo has established successful collaborations with international brands such as Loewe, LVMH and Lladró to name but a few. With a thorough understanding of material and design detail, and a portfolio ranging from tableware to furniture, technology design to lighting and creative direction, Bodo strongly advocates traditional craftsmanship paired with modern design. Bodo Sperlein’s mission is to revive and extend the life of time-honoured materials for future generations to cherish. Bodo’s innovative design eye in contemporary British product design. Pushing beyond tradition, he is dedicated to the creation of contemporary products, infusing intelligent design with elegant sensuality.
w
T
i
n
n
e
r
he Loewe bild 9 television and klang 9 speakers are the first
BORN: What is reductionism for you?
in a series of designs Bodo Sperlein Studio has produced
BODO: It is the pure essence of a product. Reductionism is clarity, something
for Loewe that highlights Bodo’s distinctive collaboration
you cannot hide.
with the Munich- and Kronach- based company. Bild 9 is
a linear sculptural range that draws inspiration from minimalist pictorial
BORN: What is the role of creativity in your current work?
line and perspective sculpture, created for design-conscious people of any
BODO: All-encompassing, it’s in everything I do in my work. It can be a
age and gender.
network, a product or a conversation. It’s a process where everything is
Having never designed for technology and home entertainment before, the creative process was an exploration of the considerations of cable management, circuit boards, the backpack and how the weight of the panel has an effect on the stability of the overall design. Our objective was to encourage people to appreciate home technology products again. We put emphasis on the importance of communicating the story of the product in question and establishing a deeper understanding between consumer and product. It was interesting to see how one can introduce people to new materials through everyday objects, and spark people’s interest in the design and production process through an object that some may take for granted as part of their daily routine. The bild 9 came to life by challenging the perception of a certain product, giving it a new meaning and elevating its stature. Current and previous clients with whom Bodo has worked include Loewe, Nikko, Lladró, Godiva, Acqua di Parma, Swarovski, Mulberry, Agent Provocateur and Dior, whilst the brand partners and sells with Andreas Murkudis in Berlin, Barney’s in New York, TANE in Mexico and Loewe around the world.
connected to each other, like a microcosm.
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 BODO SPERLEIN 29
and unique approach to materials has established him as a pivotal player
THEME
LEISURE DESIGN
BORROMEO & DE SILVA
BORROMEO & DE SILVA Fabio de Silva and Filippo Sgalbazzi in Milan, Italy.
Marco Biancullo Fabio de Silva Carlo Borromeo Filippo Sgalbazzi.
The studio specialises in automotive and product design, branding and product development, helping ambitious ideas grow from R&D to complete industrialisation. The company’s design culture is firmly rooted in its rich Milanese traditions melded with constant observance of international trends and inspirations, where many of Borromeo & De Silva’s employees studied and began their careers. Whilst the company’s ideals were born out of the automotive industry, they eventually transitioned across product and branding as a whole, integrating an understanding of high-tech processes and materials with traditional artisanal craftsmanship and know-how.
w
O
i
n
n
e
r
ur canoe is a great example of what happens when
Borromeo & De Silva’s automotive clients consist of Ferrari, Mase-
we get frustrated by working on too many corporate
rati, Alfa Romeo, Audi, VW, Dallara, Italdesign Giugiaro and Garage
projects and decide to do something that makes us
Italia Customs, whilst product partners include Technogym, Valextra,
happy. We set out with a simple objective: to create a
Beretta, Driade, Taschen and Tod’s, and their branding partners are
product that would showcase our ability to mix traditional craftsmanship
Carlo Cracco and Ferrari.
and highly technical processes and materials. Then we got carried away and decided to build a boat because we all love the sea and wanted to
BORN: What is reductionism for you?
challenge ourselves with a different moving object. The end result is a 5m
BORROMEO & DE SILVA: As Colin Chapman put it: simplify, then add
canoe built with a combination of copper-woven carbon fibre and classic
lightness. We are in a constant state of sensory over-stimulation both in our
teak wood. We asked for some help with the hull design from a friend that
physical and digital lives, and it is our duty as designers to make it better by
does fluid engineering in the America’s Cup and worked with the best
reducing the noise, to distil any product to its purest and most essential form.
carbon fibre artisans we know. The result is quite stunning; the boat is very light considering the size but also incredibly stable. We are currently
BORN: What is the role of creativity in your current work?
working on integrating a small electric motor, something we included in
BORROMEO & DE SILVA: Basically, it’s all we do. Our function as a boutique
the initial design. The canoe will soon reside at the Monaco Yacht Club
design consultancy is to create something that wasn’t there before, to provide
where it’ll be kept by its lucky owner.
a beautiful solution to a problem and then to implement it. Creativity in our
It was always meant to be a single piece, but it could easily be industrialised if necessary.
field doesn’t mean much if it remains static on paper: it needs to be printed, built, and lived.
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 BORROMEO & DE SILVA 31
Borromeo & De Silva is a company founded in 2011 by Carlo Borromeo,
Italy
Photo by Jean-Daniel Lorieux
THEME
L I F E S T Y L E FA S H I O N
COAST SOCIETY
Montecarlo Davide Jais
DAVIDE JAIS Milan is the undisputed world capital of male elegance and sartorial sophistication and the birthplace of Davide Jais. Growing up in a city of inventiveness and creativity inevitably influenced him, resulting in his a brand dedicated to the art of contemporary resort living. Fashion, design and art have informed Jais’ vision, to which he has added his own personal take on “the understated dandy»
w
C
i
n
n
e
r
oast Society offers in its products a contemporary twist
BORN: What is reductionism for you?
on the style of the eternally elegant, inspired by the resort dress codes inherited from café society, the renowned art of
DAVIDE: Reductionism, for us, is about finding elegance in simplicity. This is precisely what we find fascinating, and what can be found at the core of
relaxed beach lounging.
Coast Society.
The swim shorts were the first step towards putting charisma back
into men’s swimwear, which took more than a year of studies, research
BORN: What is the role of creativity in your current work?
and trials. Time was the main obstacle in this creative process: creati-
DAVIDE: In the world of luxury, creativity plays the most important role: it is
vity shouldn’t have any limits, but the only real limit is time, imposed
imperative. It’s all about reinventing this creativity each time, whilst respecting
by the fashion industry. The debut collection evolved from swimwear to
and conscientiously preserving the DNA and values of the brand.
beachwear, from beachwear to resortwear, and Coast Society has now succeeded in projecting the brand’s vision onto the world of luxury, with products now sold in a range of locations, from Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche and Monocle Concept Store to Fortnum & Mason, and most recently, a Coast Society boutique has been opened in Saint-Tropez. Alongside Coast Society’s store in Saint-Tropez, clients include Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc Cap d’Antibes, Chateau de la Messardiere SaintTropez, Grand Hotel du Cap Ferrat and La Samanna Cap Martin, and the brand has concept stores in Le Bon Marché Rice Gauche, Paris, Artling Paris, Fortnum & Mason, London, and La Rinascente Milano, among others.
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 COAST SOCIETY 33
current project: in 2014 he began laying the foundations of Coast Society,
THEME
S U S TA I N A B L E D E S I G N
VRAI & ORO
USA
Vanessa Stofenmacher
VANESSA STOFENMACHER Vanessa Stofenmacher founded Vrai & Oro out of the desire to disrupt the traditional ways of the fine jewellery industry, bringing essential designs direct to consumers at an honest and transparent price. After two years in the industry she discovered an even larger issue at hand—the lack of traceability within the diamond trade. To solve this issue, she partnered with Diamond Foundry to combine forces and help change both industries for the better. Diamond Foundry is growing sustainable diamonds through innovative technology in California and together with Vrai & Oro, they behind closed doors. With a background in branding and design, Vanessa now acts as creative director for both Vrai & Oro and Diamond Foundry.
w
V
i
n
n
e
r
rai & Oro offers essential fine jewellery that considers both
BORN: What is reductionism for you?
form and function, thoughtfully designed and created in
VANESSA: Reductionism is reducing something to its most simple and essen-
Los Angeles. Founded through quality, simplicity and
tial form. For us, it’s about removing all of the excess—from decorative styles
transparency, Vrai & Oro is on a mission to bring sustaina-
to middlemen and markups, leaving only what’s truly essential.
bility to the traditional fine jewellery industry. They have partnered with Diamond Foundry to offer complete
BORN: What is the role of creativity in your current work?
traceability from diamond cultivation through jewellery creation. Using
VANESSA: Creativity is at the essence of everything we do—we’re constantly
advanced solar technology, California-based Diamond Foundry culti-
pushing boundaries and questioning traditions. Our goal is not to create the
vates the world’s most evolved diamonds—atomically identical to mined
newest jewellery trend; instead, we’re thinking creatively about how we can
diamonds, without the social and environmental costs.
perfect each detail and simplify our jewellery in order to offer designs that
Vrai & Oro’s refined collection offers a modern perspective on luxury while embracing full transparency from gold to diamond. Vrai & Oro’s high-profile investors include Leonardo DiCaprio, Miroslava Duma and Jean Pigozzi, whilst they count Barney’s New York, Eva Fähren, Pamela Love, CVC, Nak Armstrong Swarovski, Jenni Kwon, FIGTNY, Satsuki Shibuya and Sissy Saint-Marie, among many others design partners.
are both sustainable and essential.
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 VRAI & ORO 35
aim to bring transparency to industries that have traditionally operated
Fabien Nauroy Head of Design at NATIVE UNION
THEME
USA/Hong Kong
D E S I G N O B J E C TS
NATIVE UNION
FABIEN NAUROY Fabien Nauroy is Head of Design at Native Union. Fabien grew up in France, studying in Paris where he graduated with a master’s degree in industrial design. Since joining Native Union in 2010, Fabien has led the design team to critical acclaim within the industry. His work is motivated by three principles: user experience, innovative working and living, the Native Union design team responds by creating products that not only support modern ways of working but are also covetable lifestyle accessories.
w
E
i
n
n
e
r
clipse is the synthesis of Native Union’s brand values, a clever
BORN: What is reductionsim for you?
solution to an everyday problem in a refined and unconven-
FABIEN: In modern life, human attention has deteriorated because of the
tional piece of design. It is the perfect balance between design
overflow of information our brains receive every second. We see reductio-
and performance, form and function.
nism as a design approach that removes all visual distractions and unneces-
With the emergence of “smart” products, the need to recharge multiple
USB devices on a daily basis has increased dramatically over the past
sary details from a product. The grand ambition is not to make it look simple, but to make it look pure.
few years. Smartphones, tablets and smartwatches all come with different charging cables and adapters. All these cables quickly get tangled, dirty
BORN: What is the role of creativity in your current work?
and damaged, creating a mess at home and making the user experience
FABIEN: It is the fuel for everything we do. Our team’s collective brain is the
really unpleasant.
engine, but creativity is the fuel that produces the brightest sparks. As much as
Eclipse is a unique solution combining a powerful three-port USB
an athlete needs to have a specific diet to perform, an innovative company
charger with an unrivalled cable management system. It keeps up to six
needs to have a high level of creativity in its blood in order to compete with
metres of cables tidy and easy to access, in a beautiful piece of design.
the leaders.
It has been incredibly exciting to work on this project. Not only on the user experience aspect, but more significantly, to create a solution to a problem we all have. Following a creative process—one that turned a bunch of messy cables hidden under the table into an object that will compliment both your devices and your space—has been very gratifying. Native Union’s products can be found globally in some of the most prestigious retail stores including the Apple Store, Selfridges, Saks Fifth Avenue, Barneys New York, Harrods and Harvey Nichols, whilst recent collaborations include Berluti, The Conran Shop, East Hotel Miami and Designjunction.
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 NATIVE UNION 37
materials and attention to detail. With technology creating new ways of
THEME
France
Anders Bringdal Alain Thebault
ANDERS BRINGDAL AND ALAIN THEBAULT Internationally-known as an iconic windsurfer, Anders became the first windsurfer to break the mythical 50-knot barrier in Namibia on November 13, 2012. He achieved a splendid professional carrier and won numerous titles, including becoming world speed champion in 2009 and 2010. After founding his own windsurf and boat factory in China, and spending many years on the professional circuit, Anders moved out to France. It was at this moment that he met Alain Thébault for the first time. Together, they created SeaBubbles in January 2016, of which Anders is the CEO. Fascinated by the birds and their absolute freedom since his childhood, Alain decided to create the Hydroptère, the first ever flying boat, support and help, and in 1994, the Hydroptère performed its first flights, with the support of the brilliant engineers.
W
i
n
n
e
r
e are the aeronautical engineers and watermen behind
BORN: What is reductionism for you?
the Hydroptère. We’ve been making boats fly for
ANDERS & ALAIN: Less is more. We tried to make a simple boat. Simplicity
decades. And one day, we realised that we could put it
is key. But doing that takes a lot of work and ideas.
to good use for the public.
We believe that pollution and global gridlock are not only threatening
BORN: What is the role of creativity in your current work?
our welfare, but are ultimately threatening people’s freedom of mobility.
ANDERS & ALAIN: SeaBubbles is a dream. A dream trying to take shape
We want to open waterways for everybody, all around the world, by crea-
from a very simple idea. A dream of what it could be like. Once you start to
ting a new way to move people at car speed on the river, for the price
believe, you can start to make it happen. Creativity, for us now, is to align
of a regular cab, with no impact on the environment or on the city’s
execution with the original idea.
infrastructure. SeaBubbles is a flying water car system. Zero waves, zero noise, zero pollution. Ready for now! The earliest shareholders in SeaBubbles included MAIF, Partech Ventures, Henri Seydoux (CEO of Parrot) and Philippe Camus (ex-EADS CEO), whilst partners include Publicis Group, Marcel, Ruinart, Mairie de Paris, Gibson Dunn and Octelio Conseil. Paris is the first destination for the craft but SeaBubbles looks to expand to Venice, Amsterdam and London.
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 SEABUBBLE 39
aged 18. Very quickly, the major French aeronautic companies offered him
w
T E C H N O LO GY & I N N OVAT I O N
SEABUBBLES
Switzerland Jacques Proust
THEME
WELLBEING
SCIENCE
NESCENS
JACQUES PROUST Professor Jacques Proust founded Nescens 15 years ago, at the Center for the Prevention of Aging at the Clinique de Genolier in Switzerland, a pioneer in anti-aging medicine. It is one of the very first European age-prevention centres, with the objective of providing patients with the latest scientific advancements linked to the prevention and treatment of pathophysiological processes associated with age. Professor Proust is the author of numerous scientific publications within the field of the biology of aging. As the largest and most exposed organ, skin naturally piqued his scientific interest. Thanks to his knowledge of the biological mechanisms at the root of the aging process, Professor Proust is the leading player within Nescens cosmeceuticals the Medical Director of Nescens Preventive Medicine Center within the Clinique de Genolier and the scientific director of the Nescens brand.
w
A
i
n
n
e
r
dd more life to your life every day, to help you live better
BORN: What is reductionism for you?
for longer. This is the mission driving all Nescens doctors
JACQUES: The scientific theory of reductionism? That would describe a way
and staff. At its Clinic, Preventive Medicine Centers, Stem
to explain a very complex phenomenon like aging, for instance, by dissecting
Cell Collection Centers, and Medical Spas, Nescens offers a
and looking at the biochemical pathway down to the molecular level.
wide range of solutions allowing for the prevention and early detection of diseases, storage of stem cells in view of future therapeutic needs, preser-
BORN: What is the role of creativity in your current work?
vation of physical and emotional health, and maintenance of youth.
JACQUES: I think the major discovery concerns the overall process of aging.
Nescens is the first brand to offer “a comprehensive and medically founded response” so that you might age in good health and preserve your future quality of life. Resulting from advanced research by the Swiss laboratories Genolier, and formulated under the supervision of Professor Jacques Proust, a physician specializing in the biology of aging, the Nescens cosmeceutical range offers a resolutely innovative anti-aging approach. The formulation of Nescens anti-aging cosmeceuticals is based on the understanding of molecular mechanisms involved in the maintenance and repair of skin structures. All products are carefully designed to address these mechanisms in their totality. Nescens cosmeceuticals contain carefully selected active ingredients whose anti-aging properties are scientifically established. Nescens has a presence in over 83 clinics, shops and pharmacies across 7 countries: Switzerland, France, NL, Belgium, Spain, India, Dubai. With its central research and development facilities, as well as headquarters, in the town of Genolier overlooking Lac Léman.
In the last twenty years we made considerable progress, understanding the basic biological mechanism that underlies the process of aging
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 NESCENS 41
and the source of numerous scientifically validated products. Today, he is
THEME
S O C I A L I M PAC T
CASH & ROCKET
UK
Julie Brangstrup
JULIE BRANGSTRUP Julie began her career at Morgan Stanley in 1998 where she worked in the Private Clients division. Here she developed the financial expertise and client skills that would aid her in her subsequent entrepreneurial ventures. In 2000, she co-founded VitaViva alongside her father, Kim Brangstrup, and a carefully selected group of scientists, doctors and researchers specializing in nutritional health care. Today, VitaViva is one of Europe’s leading online suppliers of dietary supplements. She co-founded her next venture, Gumball 3000, with Maximillion Cooper, and under the Gumball 3000 Group she operated five companies incorporating merchandising, films, clothing and its celebrated international car rally. Business in 2002 and is married to financier Mark Brangstrup Watts. Alongside her role as a full-time mother of seven, Julie is a keen skier, a lover of motorsports and at present CEO of Cash & Rocket.
w
F
i
n
n
e
r
ounded in 2012 by Julie Brangstrup, Cash & Rocket has the
BORN: What is reductionism for you?
vision to create a unique marketing platform that could be the
JULIE: Reductionism is an essential component of what I do. My role is to
source of inspiration, motivation and support to women from
translate and find complementarity between the complex requirements of my
all walks of life, uniting us all through female empowerment
clients and charity partners and to find fresh ways for them to present them-
and solidarity.
selves to the Cash & Rocket community.
Cash & Rocket is an innovative, creative marketing platform bringing
fashion and luxury brands together with charitable projects to make a
BORN: What is the role of creativity in your current work?
real difference to global issues. Each year, 40 red cars and eighty of the
JULIE: Creativity plays a central role in Cash & Rocket. Our brand partners
most influential women from the worlds of fashion, film, music, art and
are constantly seeking new and increasingly visual ways to present them-
business are handpicked to join the Cash & Rocket Tour and join a unique
selves and we seek to create opportunity for our charity partners to present
community of over 200 participants to date. Cash & Rocket’s Tour parti-
themselves to the world.
cipants travel to the world’s most magnificent countries and unite in their efforts to raise global awareness and funds for some incredible charities. Valentino, Aston Martin, Chopard, The Dorchester, Maserati, Samsung Electronics and Vitaviva are all partners with Cash & Rocket, whose annual tours have graced London, Paris, Lyon, Milan, Cannes, Venice, Barcelona, Florence, Rome and Monaco with their presence.
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 CASH & ROCKET 43
Alongside her business ventures, Julie completed a BA in Psychology and
Anthony Delon
THEME
France
REBORN
ANTHONY DELON 1985
ANTHONY DELON Anthony Delon was born in Los Angeles in 1964, the son of Alain and Nathalie Delon. By 19 Anthony was considered the youngest CEO in France, and success with his leather brand lasted until 1986 when he had a disagreement with his associates and moved on. Shortly after this, Anthony flew to New York after being given the role of Santiago Nasar in Francesco Rosi’s Chronicle of a Death Foretold. The film opened Cannes Film Festival and saw great success across Europe and America. Anthony went on to act in more than forty films and TV shows, and decided to reboot and relaunch his first passion: the leather label. The brand debuted under the title Anthony Delon 1985 at Montaigne Market during Paris Fashion Week.
w
I
i
n
n
e
r
faced a lot of obstacles when it came to creating my leather pieces.
BORN: What is reductionism for you?
Finding a good factory, organizing everything with the right people
ANTHONY: For me, reductionism is the expression of the modern world. It’s
whilst trying to have control over quality at the end of the process
interesting in many fields, most notably technology, but I think it can also be
all presented challenges. The main obstacle was to maintain my
detrimental to thought because it can remove the ability of ideas to develop.
goal: to have the best handmade pieces, yet to retain an affordable price. To me, it’s important to give access to premium quality. It would be much
BORN: What is the role of creativity in your current work?
easier, production-wise, to make jackets with an average €2500 price
ANTHONY: Creativity is the very essence of the artist. One does not become
rather than €1000, but I want to stay in touch with people—in particular
an artist; one is born an artist. Creativity is essential in the elaboration and
my fans, who followed my acting career for 30 years and who now want
evolution of a collection, it feeds on inspiration. Its role is paramount.
to get an Anthony Delon leather jacket. Anthony Delon’s winter collection will be launched in July and September, and a menswear boutique is opening in France on the second floor of the Printemps Haussmann in January 2018 during Fashion Week. By the end of 2018 Anthony will have shops in Geneva, Italy, Belgium, Germany, and Asia, specifically South Korea.
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 ANTHONY DELON 45
produced four of his very own theatre pieces. But in October 2016, he
THEME
E M E R G I N G TA L E N T
DESIGN BY GEMINI
Italy
Elena Sella Giulia Sella
GIULIA AND ELENA SELLA Giulia graduated after studying Interior Design from the Politecnico di Milano in 2012, and is a certificate Real Estate Broker. She joined Libeskind Design Studio in Milan in 2013 as part of the design team, working on projects related to interiors, products, installations and exhibitions, before moving to Studio Daniel Libeskind in New York in 2014, where she worked on the Corals condominium development in Singapore that is set to achieve LEED Gold and UD Platinum. Giulia speaks Italian and English. Meanwhile, her twin sister Elena graduated from the same school with a master’s degree in Architecture and from 2012 spent time working at the BLAST Architetti studio, where she was involved in architectural and interior design projects. Elena took part of an exchange College of University of São Paulo, and she worked for the Brazilian design gallery and studio Prototype. Elena speaks Italian, English and Portuguese. In 2015, the siblings founded DesignByGemini.
w
T
i
n
n
e
r
he project consists of an itinerant promotional stand for
BORN: What is reductionism for you?
“MYCYCLING”, a new indoor cycle training product by
GIULLA: To us, reductionism is more a philosophy about how to design
Technogym, a world-leading company in the wellness and
something. It’s removing the non-essential, trying to design with simple
fitness field. It was commissioned by MK Eventi, the events
beauty; it’s clarity of purpose and function. Reductionism requires us to do
agency in charge of “MY CYCLING” itinerant events all around Europe.
more as designers: we truly believe that it comes about when the final product
The client wanted a project to communicate the philosophy of the product
is an honest expression of its essence.
and the values of the company, a project that could be adapted to different environments (indoor/outdoor), and one with an assembly/disassembly
BORN: What is the definition of reductionism for you?
time of up to three days.
GIULIA: Creativity was the most crucial factor for our current work’s success.
The challenge was to offer an innovative idea that fit the company’s
We had to be creative and strategic to compete with the other projects’
expectations. We ended up with a modern and minimal design, remo-
proposals, creating a story and identifying an idea that tied the whole project
ving the non-essential and creating a very flexible structure with a strong
together, the path. Our concept was based on this communication strategy,
and remarkable concept: the path. The stand is divided in different areas
using creativity and critical thinking skills together.
using modular perforated steel panels. A line of neon lights on the floor leads visitors into the stand via archways, informative wall graphics and a training area with cycles and monitors. Visitors fully experience the product, from its physical features to its software system and also get the possibility to have a real training experience. We are very proud that a very important and design-oriented company like Technogym chose our project from multiple proposals. Previous and ongoing DesignByGemini projects include stand design for the Swiss company Designergy during SwissBau fair in Basel, a temporary store project in the centre of Milan for Generali Group, the largest insurance company in Italy, set design for the AW18 Campaign of Les Petits Joueurs, and a private apartment in Milan.
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 DESIGN BY GEMINI 47
program in San Paolo in 2014 with the Architecture and Urbanism
congratulations l e isur e d e si g n
HENNESSY/MARC NEWSON France/Australia Marc Newson
b e s p o k e d e si g n
PINEL & PINEL France Fred Pinel
sus t a in a b l e d e si g n
REVOLOGY New Zealand Alex Guichard - Monique Kelly
TO THE
LAND ROVER BORN AWARDS
runner ups a rc h i t e t ur e d e si g n
IL SAN PIETRO DI POSITANO Italy Andrea Viacava
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 RUNNER UPS 49
h om e d e si g n
MIRAGE Spain Eugeni Quitllet ex aequo with austere
h om e d e si g n
AUSTERE Scandinavia Fredrik Carlstrรถm ex aequo with mirage
t e c h no l o g y & inno v a t ion
SUPERPEDESTRIAN USA Assaf Biderman
w e l l b e in g
MYEQUILIBRIA Italy Vito di Bari
l i f e s t y l e f a s h ion
KIKO/ROSS LOVEGROVE Italy/UK Ross Lovegrove ex aequo with faure le page
d e si g n o b j e c t s
AWAY USA Jen Rubio - Stephanie Korey
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 RUNNER UPS 51
l i f e s t y l e f a s h ion
FAURÉ LE PAGE France Augustin de Buffevent ex aequo with kiko
e m e r g in g t a l e n t
MIA SUKI Hong Kong Mia Suki
C O N V E R S AT I O N S
the american author and aviatrix anne morrow lindbergh once wrote
“good communication is as
stimulating as black coffee and just as hard to sleep after.”
I
t’s a sentiment just as apt in today’s global, non-stop world as it was
to be recognised but also the precious opportunity to exchange ideas
when first expressed in 1955.
with one another. Every year for the past seven years, participants in the
But where does one find “good communication”? In a world
Land Rover BORN Awards would tell JC how much they appreciated the
where information is available at the touch of a button, and
opportunity to come and learn, network, and contribute. Meeting crea-
overwhelming quantities of data, studies and opinions can be found
tors from other industries tangential to their own had given them a fresh
on every website, in every newspaper, and on every television channel,
perspective, and had energised them to go out and innovate.
connecting with the right people at the right time is more difficult than
It was clear that a means of harnessing and maximizing this potential
ever. Conversations require a specialist touch; the right individuals must
for interchange was needed—and so the Born Conversations were born.
be brought together to exchange ideas. Timely connections have never
A unique combination of people
been more central to both business and creativity.
The Origins
A
t the heart of the matter is people, and that’s where the concept of the BORN Conversations was conceived. JC Chopin, founder and
T
he unique combination of people is the very crux of why the BORN Conversations are different to any other conference. The
Land Rover BORN Awards nominees and winners, as well as clients
CEO of BORN, came together to collaborate with Christophe Amenc
and partners, represent a formidable cross-section of the design world.
and Thierry Malleret, co-founders of The Summit of Minds conference
A ready supply of brilliant minds from the Awards represent the fields of
and former senior executives of Publicis and the World Economic Forum,
Technology & Innovation, Home & Design, Fashion & Accessories, Sport
the institution best known for its globally renowned Davos conference, to
& Leisure, Beauty & Cosmetics, Architecture, and Social Impact. Take,
create a space for ideas to flourish.
for example, the 2016 BORN Awards – in a single room was assembled
JC, Thierry and Christophe recognised the unique resource that is
Gerry McGovern, chief design officer of Land Rover; Jean-Claude Biver,
represented by Born’s clients, partners and those the Land Rover BORN
CEO of Hublot and TAG Heuer; multimedia artist and social activist
Awards celebrate. The Awards, in particular, had huge potential as a form
Annina Roescheisen; bike designer Cristiano De Rosa; and many more –
of summit at which leaders in the design world had not only the chance
a combination of diverse creative and business minds just waiting for that spark to set preconceptions ablaze and change the world.
I
f one is a leading artist, designer or businessperson (or, indeed, a
subcontinent, was invented. The cross-pollination and spread of ideas is
combination of all three), then it can be easy to reach a certain level
central to progress. JC’s vision for the BORN Conversations is to curate
and then hit a plateau at which the next step may not be entirely clear.
the “the Davos of Creativity”. The future of Born, and indeed the wider
Questions of how to balance creativity with business acumen abound. It
design world, lies in this pull for creators, this desire for contributive
is at this critical juncture that BORN Conversations will be so valuable.
exchange and collaboration with other creators who are not competitors.
This year, the meeting of minds will take place in Alesund, Norway—a
Rarely, if ever, has this potential for flourishing creativity been so rich.
blueprint, fluid and experimental, before a refined, streamlined BORN
The best the design world has to offer will converge to exhibit, celebrate
Conversations summit will be launched in London next year. Workshops,
and exchange. And, just to make sure adherents to Mrs Morrow Lind-
discussions and panels can help with the balancing act. Compelling
bergh’s advice aren’t disappointed, there will be coffee too.
stories will provide a new perspective on issues of creativity and business. New friends will offer advice on the next steps for participant creators’ businesses or brands. The greatest art has been produced when cultures have collided, merged and exchanged, and the greatest economic advances heralded by the discovery of new worlds, new resources, new trade. Silk Road trade and the conquests of Alexander the Great brought the aesthetic cultures of Greece and India together to give us the hybrid style of Gandharan art with its sublime Buddhas who look like Greek gods in delicate plaster. It was in China that Japan’s kanji script originated; in Arabic and Byzantine libraries that knowledge from the ancient world was saved until its rediscovery in Italy in the Renaissance; on village greens and common land in England that cricket, now beloved of a billion people on the Indian
THOMAS BARRIE
WWW.BORN.COMM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 BORN CONVERSATIONS 53
What to look for
== Order Remarks == Les speciďŹ cites techniques sont: 420 x 297mm (single page) - bleed 3mm - no crop marks == Pool Remarks == == Techspec == Filefromat: PDFx1a max. Size: TechSpec Infos: TechSpecFiles:
www.zenith-watches.com
LEGENDS ARE FOREVER
land rover and born take milan
ilan Design Week is always a highlight of the year for the world’s creative industries, but this year was especially memorable, with not one but three events luring the design cognoscenti: the debut of BORN in Italy,
the announcement of the Land Rover BORN Awards, and the launch of the Reductionism installation at the city’s La Permanente museum. Opening its doors to Italian creators for the first time, BORN will showcase the nation’s famed creativity, providing a platform for them to present products, build businesses and expand profiles. Design connoisseurs will find an exciting array of emerging and established Italian design talent to champion, and innovative products to peruse across lifestyle categories from technology to fashion. The first truly creative market network, BORN launch in Italy is a thrilling development for rising talents, design lovers and creative leaders at home and away.
Rover. The experiential installation sets out to «transport visitors into
Creators endorsed by BORN are eligible for prizes in the 2017 Land
a reality in which disorder gives way to contemplation», says Chopin,
Rover BORN Awards, also announced at a prestigious Design Week
with a carefully curated array of pieces including textiles from Sweden’s
event. The awards, which celebrate creations that meet the criteria of
Kvadrat and crystal homeware by Lalique.
desirability, sustainability, innovation and relevance, recognise excep-
Here, the Range Rover Velar takes centre stage – a masterpiece of
tional creative achievements across nine different categories. This year’s
design already accustomed to museum display since its launch at London’s
winners will be revealed to a gathering of creativity’s leading lights in
Design Museum earlier this year. Perched atop black and white marble
Norway on July 26.
benches by Citco, visitors can covet jewellery by Diamond Foundry, slick
At Milan’s La Permanente museum, a new, multi-sensory exhibition exploring the concept of Reductionism had its own opening night, co-curated by BORN founder and CEO, Jean-Christophe Chopin and Land
THE VELAR - MUSEO DELLA PERMANENTE MILANO
tech accessories from Native Union or a Chronomaster El Primero Range Rover Velar timepiece by Swiss watchmakers Zenith.
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 LAND ROVER AND BORN TAKE MILAN 55
M
MACROPHOTOGRAPHY EXHIBITION - MUSEO DELLA PERMANENTE MILANO - GARY BRIAN
design’s great and good congregated in april this year to celebrate the industry’s biggest event of the year.
2
THE BORN SPACE - MUSEO DELLA PERMANENTE MILANO
017 might have marked the Salone del Mobile’s 56th birthday, but the most respected and anticipated event of the year for international design enthusiasts is anything but middle-aged. With over 300,000 visitors and 5,000 journalists traveling to the
fair to see the creations of over 2,000 exhibitors and designers, the event was certainly not for the faint-hearted, nor those lacking in curiosity – or comfortable shoes. This year, the furniture fair was divided into three main sections: Classic, Design and xLux. The latter, which showcased contemporary luxury products, made its return after its successful debut last year. As per usual, there was no shortage of heavyweight launches this year either. To cite but a few, Konstantin Grcic’s elegant sofas for Cassini, Max Lamb’s ceramics for Bitossi, and Established & Sons’ comeback showing really stood out. On the other hand, emerging talented designers were very much present too, such as the Finnish trio Luomo Collective who brought their coveted, minimal accessories, JCP their sculptural furniture and Arper their happy pastels – a sure-fire antidote to the workplace blues. At the Museo della Permanente, BORN presented five unique designs which took reductionism as their starting focal point. Ranging from Swiss-based Zenith’s El Primero Range Rover chronograph and jewellery made by US based designer Vanessa Stofenmacher, who uses sustainable diamonds grown in labs, BORN managed to combine simplicity, elegance and style. But that’s not all; the fluid crystal homeware by French Lalique, simple black-and-white marble benches to honour Zaha Hadid, and minimalist, graceful tech accessories designed by John Brunner and Igor Duc of Native Union from Hong Kong completed the magnificently tailored extravaganza.
THE BORN SPACE - NATIVE UNION STAND
FROM RIGHT TO LEFT - JEAN-CHRISTOPHE CHOPIN, FOUNDER AND CEO OF BORN PAUL OWEN, GLOBAL SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER AT JAGUAR LAND ROVER MASSIMO FRASCELLA, CREATIVE DIRECTOR EXTERIORS JAGUAR LAND ROVER AMY FRASCELLA, CHIEF DESIGNER COLOUR AND MATERIALS LAND ROVER
Il San Pietro di Positano THE MOST ECOLOGICAL KITCHEN IN THE WORLD
I
t is rare that ecology and design go hand-in-hand in a kitchen. But then again, the kitchen at Il San Pietro di Positano, with its 360° fine-dining experience, is no regular kitchen. Indeed, the spot within the iconic hotel’s Michelin-starred
Zass restaurant where sumptuous Mediterranean delicacies are created, is a state-of-the-art eco-kitchen, where recycling and restyling dovetail uniquely. For the first time in the history of fine-dining and hotellerie, Chef Alois Vanlangenaeker’s open-space combines razor-sharp taste two-floors. “Everything about the dining experience has to be transparent and honest,” says owner Vito Cinque, who personally oversaw the nine-
ozone system sanitises the kitchen, sealing it off every night at 2
month kitchen renovation. Designer Andrea Viacava is the driving force
am tonaturally protect and clean all surfaces and eliminate even the
behind this fully-visible kitchen, while local interior designer Fausta
strongest of odours. Il San Pietro’s kitchen is one of only two worldwide,
Gaetani helped shape the aesthetic dimension. The upper floor is where
using this technology. Waste-disposal is also highly environment-friendly
the cooking takes place, and sitting at Zass’ exclusive “Chef’s Table” as
here, allowing the hotel a significant reduction in weight and volume of
Vanlangenaeker and his 35-strong brigade create their exquisite dishes,
organic refuse and recyclable materials. Since the eco-kitchen was inau-
gives guests backstage access to this stunning kitchen.
gurated earlier in 2017, the hotel boasts an 85 percent reduction in waste
Meanwhile, carved into the side of the rocky cliff tops over-looking
and energy-savings upward of 25 percent.
Positano, the lower floor is where the green techno-pioneering is happe-
Never has green technology got along quite so exquisitely with luxury
ning. The kitchen’s refrigerators and cold chambers provide the energy
dining, nor has it ever been as visually satisfying as in this corner of Italian
to heat up the hotel’s entire water supply, while a Programmable
paradise, perched atop the luscious greenery of the Amalfi Coast.
Logic Controller (PLC) optimises energy loads and reduces consumption
JULIET LINLEY
without affecting the performance of the machinery. An ultra-modern
VITO CINQUE - OWNER OF THE SAN PIETRO
POSITANO
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 IL SAN PIETRO DI POSITANO 57
with environmentally avant-garde technology -sprawled over 400m2 on
Gastronomy. The essence the role of the chef has become the new basis on which to model the manager, the politician and the banker; gastronomy, or perhaps it should be called
“the system of
gastronomy”, is now a model for society to function well.
I
t is possible to say, in complete confidence, “All that I know, I learnt
elegance: the Franco-Roman approach whose philosophy can be found
from the Chefs (with a capital C): exemplary behaviour, ethics,
in the treaties from the very beginning of the millennium, from Lucullus,
virtue, instinct, codification, and the transmission of ideas.”
to Horace and the Apicius cookery book, and later in Montesquieu and
But above all, the Chef offers us an example of taste, respect for
the earth, and the work of a team tightly bonded and pursuing the same mission: emotion.
Talleyrand. The notion of art de vivre (lifestyle) was born and provided a base for snobbery, power codes and contemporary dictats. But here, again, all is emotion; seen so often in the simple principles
This emotion hits home because it is the basis for transmission from
illustrated by the Classical alchemist Marie, who invented the bain-marie,
one to another, a transmission that couldn’t exist without simplification
the Tatin sisters of the eponymous tart, and Mr Parmentier; presented in
- to the extreme - of thought and message. To achieve this transmission
the intelligence of the remarks of Grimod de la Reynière and Balzac –
of emotion requires virtue and contemporary power to be found in reduc-
and later in the first exponent of bien manger and ethical food, Ali-Bab!
tionism. But to study the present and the future, and to speak of several
But what do all these instances have in common? Emotion; always.
of the great Chefs of the moment, one must take a trip into the past, as
The emotion of these chefs is both methodical and loving, and this births
cooking is a school of thought with a rich history. After all, what would
lineage and tradition.
we be without the demanding nature and complexity of the imperial
Emotion is embodied in the chefs of Robuchon, who knew how to
menus of Greater China? The first nation of excellence who – well before
become the best in the world, reflected by the late Benoît Violier (who left
Europe – knew how to create a sense of ritual and fanaticism around the
us far too early); in the convictions born by the masters of instinct for more
notion of the Grande table! It was in the Renaissance that diplomacy atta-
than 20 years, namely the two Great Alains (Ducasse and Passard) who
blée (diplomatic dining) established itself in its approach to a new kind of
are joined today by the ethical Magnus Nilsson; in the excellence of the terroir cult reinvented by the honourable Hélène Darroze (a disciple of the noble land of Armagnac) but also by mischievous Elena Arzak; last of all, in the inheritors of the sacred fire, brought by Francis Mallmann from his homeland of Patagonia, or the cult of generalissimo Ferran Adrià. Gastronomy is, finally, the school of boldness and conviction which allows unlikely individuals such as Daniel Humm to place themselves, at 40 years old, at the highest point of the international gastronomic chessboard, a position which shouldn’t deteriorate as long as his contemporary genius continues to break barriers in a world which is constantly changing. A world of emotion. Because without emotion, nothing beautiful exists. It is the purest sentiment. Gastronomy reduced to the essential. The best definition of reductionism. NICOLAS KENEDI, president of L’Agence Française & Member of the French Academy of Gastronomy
ELBULLI MENU
FRANCIS MALLMANN
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 GASTRONOMY. THE ESSENCE 59
SOCIETY SOCIETY Simplexity
in the face of an increasingly complex world, the reductionist spirit advocating simplicity pervades
everything, from design to advertising to lifestyle
O
ver the last few years, the world seems to have turned around the trend of reducing complex systems to simple
things. The now very popular Macron campaign slogan, “En Marche”, is a perfect example: a whole campaign
built on the idea that when facing important stakes, in order to move forward it is necessary to lighten and reduce everything through simplification. This could be taken as a form of deceptive advertising if it wasn’t also expressed in the areas of design, sport, fashion, health and transport. In a sometimes confusing environment where forms are changing and convictions are interchangeable, ideological reductionism, which mixes the spirit of innovation and the return to value of use, is everywhere. From skin moisturisers to iPhones, the obliteration of complexity in favour of simplicity shows no limits. “There is an increasing consumer interest in products and services which make life easier.” analyses the Global Brand Simplicity Index, in its annual report on brands and lifestyles (Simple: Conquering the Crisis of Complexity, by Stefan Siegel and Irene Etzkorn, describes how organisations can successfully achieve simplicity). It is from allowing to not have to choose between performance and design that the success of Apple’s simple and effective products has grown, as is the case with their advertising campaigns, which always concentrate on the function of the product. The inscription “Shot by iPhone” sums up this simplicity. Given the complexity of photography and art, the idea seems obvious. The concept cleverly lends itself to social tools like Instagram and Facebook. In this vision of the world, we are now free. Free to express ourselves without obstacles, as if we were rid of the weight of complexity, and to inhabit a space where luxury consists of merging style and substance. “I don’t care how it works, as long as it meets my needs”, consumers seem to say. Even though the vogue for reductionism is not new (it can be seen, for example, in the works of architect Ricardo Niemeyer), the returning trend in design and advertising is not just limited to objects. Currently, there is a real need for simplicity in lifestyle. It is also found in sport, in which the growing trend for running, yoga, powerwalking, crossfit (military-type physical training) and slacklining (rope-walking) celebrates the return to the body free from all burdens. These amateur athletes, searching for emotion and sensation, tell us that beyond the depravity of the world, there is an immutable need to feel alive.
Isn’t walking the ultimate way to escape complexity? It is a form of joyful regression which laughs in the face of chaos. “Being a tightrope walker is not a job, it’s a way of life”, says Philippe Petit in the beautiful documentary Man on Wire, which reminisces about the time he crossed between the Twin Towers of the World Trade Center in 1974. “Tightrope walking is a metaphor for life: there is a beginning, an end, a progression, and if you take a wrong step, you die. Tightrope walking connects things destined to be remote, which is its mystical dimension. For me,” he concludes, “it sounds so simple that life should be lived on the edge. Maintaining rebellion, refusing to comply with the rules, denying your own success, refusing to repeat and seeing each day, each year, each idea as a real challenge.” Simple and complex at once, like a world on the go. BRUNO DANTO, brand consultant & creative director, founder of DAD & Partners, an agency dedicated to brand equity in sport and lifestyle. (www.brunodanto.com) - Founder of Sport and style (L’Equipe) Former journalist for Le Monde ( lifestyle supplement) editor in chief of Vogue Hommes international ( Condenast )
OSCAR NIEMEYER - BRASILIA
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 SIMPLEXITY 61
I pick up my pen it flows. A building appears. There it is. There is nothing more to say. -Oscar Niemeyer-
Design for Performance BRITISH INDUSTRIES COMBINE FORCES TO RECLAIM AMERICA’S CUP
with boats reaching more than 45 knots and speeds in excess of 85kph, land rover’s pioneering technology has been central to the rapid development of the british america’s cup team as we enter a new era of yacht racing. WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 THE PEOPLE ECOMONY IN NUMBERS
S
ince its creation 166 years ago, the America’s Cup has not been
Land Rover’s resources have focused on three central areas where their
won by a British challenger and therefore has not returned to
expertise can lead the way, including the aerodynamics of the giant 78ft
Britain’s shores. However, through an engineering collabora-
wingsail, applying artificial intelligence to increase performance through
tion between Land Rover and Ben Ainslie Racing (BAR), two
data analysis, and the control systems used by Sir Ben Ainslie to “fly”
of Britain’s most established industries have joined forces to create an
the boat including the bespoke steering wheels. With specialist Jaguar
environment where success can flourish. The America’s Cup not only
Land Rover engineers embedded within the team at their Portsmouth
requires the finest sailors but also an engineering team who push the
HQ, alongside the support of the computational capabilities at Jaguar
boundaries of technological innovation to produce the fastest race-boat in
Land Rover Gaydon, automotive influence can be seen throughout the
the world. When BAR formed two years ago, as a challenger for the 35th
design process.
America’s Cup, it quickly became apparent that Land Rover possessed
“We are determined to achieve our goal to bring the America’s Cup
the engineering capabilities that complemented the design strategy of the
home to Britain,” says Sir Ben Ainslie, Land Rover BAR Skipper and
British America’s Cup team, and the partnership was born.
Team Principal. “We want to work with the best, and as technology
America’s Cup catamarans now reach faster top speeds than ever
leaders Land Rover can offer so much to the development of a winning
before—three times faster than the wind—using Formula One levels of
boat. They are a great British brand, but also a fantastic engineering
technology with the 50ft America’s Cup Class yachts “flying across the
and technology company who work hand in hand with our design and
water”. The catamarans aim to have 99 per cent of the three-tonne boat
engineering team.”
above the water at all times by hydrofoiling daggerboards. Just as an
As a direct result of the engineering partnership, Land Rover is imple-
aircraft wing will lift a plane into the sky, the foils of an America’s Cup
menting technologies and key learnings into the cars of the future, with
Class boat will lift it out of the water.
Tony Harper, Jaguar Land Rover’s Director of Engineering Research
DAVID YARROW - THE LAND ROVER BAR
explaining, “The Fluid Structural Interaction (FSI) software used on Land Rover BAR’s wingsail is already being applied to future car programmes through virtual assessment of detailed vehicle structures under aerodynamic load. This computer-based software allows variations to be explored prior to prototype stage saving time and cost; ultimately working towards optimising the weight and improving the fuel efficiency of Jaguar Land Rover vehicles of the future” With the renewed commitment to the team for the 36th America’s Cup, Land Rover BAR continues to push the boundaries in terms of technological development and the close-working partnership is already looking for innovative design solutions which will deliver on the team’s purpose and return the America’s Cup to Britain. JULES PERKINS
ad
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 THE PEOPLE ECOMONY IN NUMBERS
Rethinking Luxury’s Innovation Gameplan
unless a company is rebecca minkoff or reformation, chances are that it has been frustratingly slow in using digital technology for innovation. ANA ANDJELIC - LUXURY BRAND STRATEGIST
Depending on their answer, there are four directions that fashion
chances are that it has been frustratingly slow in using
incumbents can take.
digital technology for innovation. Too often, fashion incumbents consider technology
mostly as an advertising tool and not as a business model.
Addition (creating incremental value, market focus): A legacy company becomes more valuable if it uses technology to add a new revenue stream
As advertising, technology allows for more effective ad planning. As a
to its core business. Technology is used as a value-add to a fashion
business model, it opens up new revenue streams and transforms every-
business’s traditional value chain, and it becomes its additional sales and
thing from the supply chain to operations, marketing, merchandising
marketing channel. LVMH launched 24sevres.com for these purposes.
and materials used in production. The gap between these two scenarios reveals legacy fashion’s short-term approach to its own business growth.
Systems (creating transformative value, market focus): A company can
In contrast, vertically integrated, direct-to-consumer fashion entrants all
choose to grow by creating value outside of its traditional value chain.
adopt the long-term view. They built their businesses around technology
It builds a service around its existing product offerings and treats it as a
and in the process accumulated the wealth of consumer data, created flat,
new source of revenue. Goop’sexpansion from a publisher into a retailer
fast-moving organizations and invested in sustainable and transparent
created a new market and a new audience for the company while enhan-
supply chains. The technology gap also reveals a discrepancy in compe-
cing its core value proposition.
titive fitness among the main players on the global fashion market. In the past, the competitive edge was achieved through amassing scale, opening
Design (creating incremental value, customer focus): Companies that
new stores and increasing corporate marketing budgets.
use data, CRM and customer service make their existing products and
Today, this isn’t how the fashion business grows. If the twentieth
services more desirable and relevant from the standpoint of end-cus-
century was the age of the corporation, the twenty-first century is the age
tomers. These companies do not transform the core business they are in;
of the consumer. Closest to consumers are vertically integrated, direct-
rather, they improve it incrementally. Matches Fashion offers VIP and
to-consumer fashion companies that didn’t exist a decade ago. They are
personal stylist services to make their business more viable and attractive
now here to eat fashion incumbents’ lunch. Joining them are online retail
from a customer point of view.
aggregators and, despite the vocal industry deniers, Amazon. To rapidly shift their vantage point towards customer-centrism, incu-
Disruption (creating transformative value, customer focus): A fashion
mbents need to understand the role that digital technology plays in their
company that creates a completely new value in the established industry
business beyond advertising. A good way to go about it for the fashion
is considered disruptive. It creates a value chain that is radically diffe-
companies is to examine whether they are using digital technology with
rent than the one that the industry has been built around.Reformation is
their end-consumer in mind or as a way to get more out of their legacy
a direct-to-consumer B-corp that uses recycled and vintage materials to
business. They also need to ask whether technology creates just incre-
produce its clothes.
mental value for their business or transforms it. The fashion industry talks a lot about innovation. It throws money at initiatives that promise disruption but that, in the end, merely use digital technology as added value to its existing business. There is nothing wrong with incremental innovation, unless everyone around you is in the business of transformation. ANA ANDJELIC
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 RETHINKING LUXURY’S INNOVATION GAMEPLAN 67
U
nless a company is Rebecca Minkoff or Reformation,
Coming from a creative background, I dreamed of building a brand that was aesthetically immune to time and location. I thought CRU should feel “glocal”, or globally local, a sort of “organic Chanel” for products of spectacular and ethical origins. We now spend a lot of time and effort creating quality content and communicating the coffee story to our customers. Colin and John recently made a documentary about coffee sourcing in Colombia, and while there they discovered a new product called coffee flour, a gluten-free superfood created from the by-products of the coffee production. We have also previously created a limited-edition capsule from the Galapagos Islands which provided donations to the local community and support to the small coffee plantation existing there. The beauty about coffee is not only its incredible journey from farm to cup, but also the genuine moments and experiences it can create. For CRU, we want this to mean a coffee you can bring on a camping trip to the beach, or serve as an Espresso Martini at a fabulous party. In that sense, what is wonderful about having created CRU is the freedom it gives to interact with other creatives. We serve our coffee at fashion shows, art openings, festivals, and we work with people like Jamie Oliver, adventurers and artists … thankfully, coffee is a global language, meaning there are very few limits. Coffee certainly is the new black. It is welcomed as a medium in most settings. Hopefully visually we have made a frame through which to expe-
Health is the new Wealth BODIL BLAIN
everyone has a moment in their life when they feel restless and develop a desire to do something
E
“disruptive”, to do something that creates change.
veryone has a moment in their life when they feel restless and develop a desire to do something “disruptive”, to do something that creates change. I had spent years involved in the fashion and art worlds but had started to become aware
of the “back to the land” movements that were developing in the food and drink industry and how these were developing into businesses that really spoke to customers’ interest in the origin of the products they were buying. Coffee is a perfect example of this—while watching a friend stuffing fresh coffee into empty Nespresso capsules I realised there was so much more to be done around the expanding third-wave coffee scene, particularly within people’s homes; I had a lightbulb moment—why not sell premium, organic and ethically sourced coffee in pods that are recyclable? And shortly after meeting tech man Colin Pyle and chef John Quilter (aka Food Busker) in 2013, CRU Kafe was founded. We kicked off with a Sunday Times article that brought in over 1,000 customers, and very shortly CRU could be found in Whole Foods and Soho House hotel rooms around the world. Like craft beer, artisanal chocolate, and ingredients on restaurant menus, the world is becoming a place where customers are demanding more information about products’ origins. Gone are the days where the coffee experience was only about caffeine and convenience. We wanted our coffee to be organic with no nasty chemicals, pesticides or aggressive farming practices harming either your body or the communities and lands where the coffee was grown. Simply put, the best beans always come from the best farms—and all the growers work hard to reinvest in the community and environment around them. We wanted CRU’s DNA to feel authentic and to be completely transparent to our customers. We genuinely care and got into this industry to do things differently, and part of that is being socially and environmentally responsible.
BODIL BLAIN - FOUNDER OF CRU KAFE
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 CRU KAFE 69
rience it that allows it to be a part of all interesting journeys and moments.
BEAUTY A BUSINESS JOURNEY TOWARDS AUTHENTICITY
it is always a challenge to describe and quantify the economic impact of beauty and creativity, even because behind this request it is often pretended to fix tangibly what it is intangible.
T
he role of beauty within the economy is getting more and
Beauty has universal and long-term components and that’s why coun-
more real, visible and therefore financially significant. It is
tries like Italy have strong undervalued assets still to be deployed inde-
now ready to be treated as a specific industry and, going
pendently of the current economic situation. To a certain extent, while the production origin is still important
further, as an investment asset class.
(specifically, the origin that relates to the terminology “made in”), when
start by considering what has been defined as the “experience economy”.
authenticity is a must and when companies have to deal with brand equity
Very recently, Barclaycard figures showed we are increasingly spending
issues, concepts like “designed in” and “born in” are becoming more and
less money on buying things, and more on doing things – and telling
more relevant, addressing deeper lifestyle values, experiences and the
the world about it online afterwards. James Wallman (the author of
meaning of beauty in that specific context.
Stuffocation: Living More with Less) says that “during the 20th century,
For years, beauty has driven profitable asset classes such as fashion,
the big dominant value system was materialism, the belief that if we had
cosmetic industry, design and hospitality, as well as the less common
more stuff we’d be happier.” This is no longer the case, and Wallman goes
alternative investments such as fine art—paintings, sculptures, architec-
on to note that “social media is supporting this change.”
ture, photography, and so on.
Claudia Roth, who has 25 years’ experience with some of the world’s
Several vertical financial players are active in these fields and the recent
most prestigious brands, goes further, and believes that we are leaving the
global economic downturn that some European countries faced offered
experience economy behind in favour of a natural evolution of it: “the
alternative investors huge opportunities to buy undervalued brands at a
Transformation economy”, where consumers are seeking more than mere
very deep discount where an international management team, emotional
experience. They crave something authentic and meaningful; something
marketing experts and digital strategists could team up to accelerate and
to which they can connect on the most personal level and, in doing so,
capture the significant potential value creation. Beauty is not a static concept and cannot just belong to the past. It is
undergo an actual sense of personal transformation. Today, the central role of the “authentic experience” in the business
a “living concept” that instead can draw on values from the past, such as the tradition of quality, with the authenticity of the storytelling influen-
environment gives beauty a new playground. Beauty helps people to have high-quality authentic emotions and
cing our quality of life in the present. TOMMASO MICAGLIO
experiences. “Though we travel the world over to find the beautiful, we must carry it with us or we find it not,” Ralph Waldo Emerson once remarked. Recently, Prometeia, an Italian advisory firm, carried out a
Tommaso is currently involved in investing in Italian mid-market opportu-
research on the economic impact of beauty on the major European coun-
nities buying and managing selected assets which trade at discount into a
tries, and the result give substance to the economic role of beauty within
special situations. Tommaso is strongly convinced that the ongoing system
these countries (see chart below).
deleverage in Italy is creating an unprecedented investment momentum and it’s far to an end. A persistent asymmetry between liquidity demand
added value
- billions of euros - 2013
%pil
- 2013
& supply for Italian companies due to bank-centric system, weak domestic capital market for mid-market alternative finance still to take off.
517 374 339 240 156
20.5 19.7 18.9 16.5 16.3
Tommaso’s strong belief is mainly backed by the followings: Italy is the third Euro-zone largest economy after Germany and France showing an uneven economic development; Lombardy, Veneto, Emilia Romagna and Piedmont together account for 71.4% of total Italian MSE and 47.2% of Italian GDP; Italy holds an environment with a unique industrial and manufacturing heritage, relying on a backbone of SMEs with a high degree of dynamism and creativity; Italian Private Wealth: 257,379 HNWIs owning over $ 1.000 Bln(3) looking for alternative allocation.
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 BEAUTY, A BUSINESS JOURNEY TOWARDS AUTHENTICITY 71
In order to capture the real economic meaning of beauty, it is useful to
designjunction London’s leading design destination 21–24 September 2017 King’s Cross, London thedesignjunction.co.uk
T
hanks to a clutch of new travel brands, you can pick up accessories to suit that are considered, and as photogenic,
UP
do you like your journeys to be urban, futuristic or exotic?
as your destination. You’ve carefully laid out the wardrobe for your business
trip (or better yet, your getaway). You’ve set out your favourite sunglasses and shoes, and your passport is tucked in its sleek leather holder. So far, so Instagram. But then you have to actually stash it in your suitcase, and chances are it’s a generic, mass-produced number chosen as the least offensive option in the store. But waiting for your bag to appear on the luggage carousel just got considerably more exciting, with new, young travel brands coming to the rescue of the style-savvy traveller. Luggage brand Away is one that’s really taking off, making travel kit that’s sharper, smarter, and sexier. Launched by eyewear brand Warby Parker alumni Jen Rubio and Steph Korey, this direct-to-consumer brand cuts out the middleman to create, as they put it, “first-class luggage at a coach price.” In unbreakable and incredibly lightweight Bayer Makrolon polycarbonate, their cases (in carry-on and checked luggage sizes) feature
IT
compression systems and – best of all – a built-in battery and USB ports for charging electronics on the move. But for all its cleverness, this is first and foremost covetable, thoughtful and pared-back design, melding a minimal fashion aesthetic with highly functional features. But if minimal design is (quite literally) your bag, you need look no further than Raden. Looking like the luggage you might pack for a space odyssey, Raden’s gorgeously glossy offerings are a masterclass in simplicity – at least on the outside. Exteriors are impossibly streamlined, with no unsightly logos, pockets or zips to disrupt their moulded polycarbonate shells. But just beneath the surface, these bags reveal their smarts, syncing
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 PACK IT UP 73
360-degree spinner wheels, silk linings, removable laundry bags, patented
AWAY’S SMART LUGGAGE PLUGS
with an app to locate your bag once out of sight, and a built-in handle sensor that weighs the case – ideal for curbing overly enthusiastic packing tendencies. Romantic nomads get a look-in, too, thanks to Paravel’s recently launched and chicly nostalgic luggage sets. If Raden is Stanley Kubrick, Paravel is stoutly Wes Anderson, crafted from Italian canvas and leather. Built upon a belief that “beautiful things should also be practical”, these
RADEN’S SLEEK CARRY-ON CASES
THE PARAVEL LUGGAGE SUITE
PACK
cases and bags are certainly worthy of inclusion in a holiday snap or two.
ELLE mELLE. Photo: Håvard Myklebust, Karsten Gelfle, Knutt Flakk, Marte Garmann, Arnfinn Tønnesen / www.fjordnorway.com, Christiann Koepke.
ARE YOU READY TO EXPLORE LUXURY - THE NORWEGIAN WAY? 62°NORD is located on the north-west coast of Norway where steep mountains raises from the narrow fjords. An area known for its spectacular and untouched nature. This beautiful part of the world is our home and passion. As locals we can take you away from the glitz and glam to something genuin and unique. Places you would not find on your own. THIS is what we believe is the highest level of luxury.
62.NO #62nord
ELLE mELLE. Photo: Håvard Myklebust, Karsten Gelfle, Knutt Flakk, Marte Garmann, Arnfinn Tønnesen / www.fjordnorway.com, Christiann Koepke.
this magazine is the result of a collective effort contributors
Creative Direction Jean-Christophe Chopin
Ana Andjelic
Clare Aitken
andjelicaaa@gmail.com
clare@specialmove.net
Ariane Elfen
Mark Cameron
ariane.elfen@gmail.com
mcameron@jaguarlandrover.com
Bodil Blain
Lisa Aschenbrenner
bodil@crukafe.com
l.aschenbrenner@oliviamariotti.com
Bruno Danto
Cindy Pratesi
elisa@born.com
bruno@dadandpartners.com
c.pratesi@oliviamariotti.com
Partners Relation Pierre Sapin
Jules Perkins
Elli Stuhler
jules.perkins@caa.com
elli.stuhler@gmail.com
Olivia Mariotti
Juliet Linley
olivia@oliviamariotti.com
julietlinley@yahoo.com
Paul Owen
Nicolas Kenedi
powen@jaguarlandrover.com
nicolas.kenedi@lagencefrancaise.com
jcchopin@born.com
Artistic Direction Constantin Chopin kostis@born.com
Project Manager Elisa Rojas
psapin@born.com
Thomas Barrie Thomas.Barrie@condenast.co.uk
Tommaso Micaglio tommaso.micaglio@me.com
contacts
BORN Europe Soho Works 56 Shoreditch High Street London, E1 6JJ BORN USA Fueled Collective 568 Broadway New York, NY 10012 BORN Asia The L.Place 139 Queen’s Road Central Hong Kong, 17/F contact@born.com +44 [0] 7552 396 097 BORN is published by BORN UK, Soho Works 56 Shoreditch High Street London, E1 6JJ All Rights Reserved.
WWW.BORN.COM | NORWAY EDITION | 2017 CONTACTS 75
design team
CHANEL .COM La Ligne de CHANEL - Tél. 0 800 255 005 (appel gratuit depuis un poste fixe).