Riding the Dragon Slayer

Fall Tour Kentucky

Welcome to our Fall Ride Guide. The riding season here in the southeast is transitioning from the hot and humid oppressive days to the cooler temps of fall. And frankly, my favorite time of the year to ride. Riders and motorists alike flock to eastern Kentucky and Tennessee to take in the fall colors, enjoy the camping, Pumpkin....everything, hot chocolate near the warmth of a campfire and of course the best roads in the country. In our October and November issues, we’ll cover the roads that take us up and over mountain’s, deep into the hollers, along the most scenic rivers and most importantly, into the communities and their peoples who make this region what it is-truly Appalachian. I visited Ashland, KY back in March of this year and while riding, discovered that U.S. 23, aka the Country Music Gateway, was not only great riding, but had an incredible amount of history associated with it-Country and Bluegrass Music History. I’ll admit I’m not a follower of country music, yet I couldn’t help but to be impressed with the number of recording stars from the area. Loretta Lynn, Chris Stapleton, Dwight Yoakam, Ricky Skaggs, Crystal Gayle, Billy Ray Cyrus and The Judd’s to name a few. I had to ask myself, is there something in the water that creates such a concentration of talent? As I rode further south along U.S. 23, I realized it was the land, the mountains, its Lore and the unsolicited gentle wave from porch sitters that greet passersby. The inspiration and the talent, well, it’s simply Kentucky. Before I go any further, it’s important to note that this particular line of black gold that snakes its way just south of Ashland, KY for 183 miles as it slices through the corner of Virginia and into Kingsport, TN is considered to be part of the vast network of trails from Backroads Of Appalachia. The Country Music Gateway-Hwy 23, as it’s officially designated. Heading south from Paintsville, KY and passing by the famous Loretta Lynn’s Butcher Holler, yes, there’s a tour at 1 Butcher Hollow Rd. in Van Lear, U.S. 23 runs along the Levisa Fork River and rambles through seven counties as it hugs the border of WV. It’s an easy ride as rides go and that’s a good thing because there is plenty to see along the way. The unincorporated Hamlets of Banner, Tram and Ivel, most of which were established in the late 1800’s, are the remnants of the coal boom that fueled America.

A little further south, the City of Pikeville is an example of the truegrit spirit required to tame this wild land as the city itself is almost carved out of the steep terrain. U.S. 23 is sandwiched between the engineering marvel dubbed The Pikeville Cut Through, the largest engineering feat in the United States, and second in the world only to the Panama Canal, and the city proper. It’s an impressive zigzag of rock, steel, concrete and road. There’s an observation deck at Bob Amos Park. With the leaves beginning to turn, it’s a great

vista of small-town USA and the rolling Appalachian Mountain Chain.

After taking in the cut-through, I found another gem in Pikeville, the Happy Days Diner. I parked my bike and went inside to find the red and gray vinyl decor with its Formica tabletops oozing Americana. Taking a seat near the window so that I could see the town, I glanced at the menu and immediately made my choice. Any country eatery worth its mettle has my respect with a fried bologna sandwich being one of its signature sandwiches topped high with tomato, lettuce, and a slather of mayo. While waiting for my lunch, I reflected on the ride and this incredible region. Its inviting untamed hills and the welcomed opportunity to slow things down and literally, enjoy the ride. Back on the road I pushed along and soon found myself in Virginia and then into Kingsport. A great day of riding and an incredible day of taking in America, Kentucky style. Photo Credit to @ranger.photo

–Indian Rider Bill

Indianriderbill@yahoo.com

RIDING THE DRAGONSLAYER

In my last column I mentioned pointing my bike in a direction, any direction, instead of having a predetermined route or destination in mind. Well, I kind of did both recently. Last week I pointed my bike north into Kentucky. East Kentucky, to be exact.

I connected with a friend who’s the motorsports event coordinator for Backroads of Appalachia, Mr. Jay Fryman. Jay, as his title infers, is responsible for marketing, and delivering a total motorsport’s tourism initiative. I say total because it includes motorcycles, adventure/dual sport bikes, side by sides, Slingshots, and a vast number of car clubs with the end game of getting drivers and riders alike on the roads of east Kentucky.

The overarching organization, Backroads of Appalachia, and its Founder and Director, Mr. Erik Hubbard, in conjunction with 32 county Chambers of Commerce and tourism heads, envisioned reviving the forgotten coal communities of Eastern

Kentucky through the development of a comprehensive motorsport tourism strategy. Part of that strategy includes trail development. So that we’re clear, a “Trail” is a designated route on current day highways, byways and of course, backroads. And right now, there are over 31 paved trails that snake, wind, and climb their way through some of the best riding in the country.

Jay wanted me to ride the trail that inspired it all, The Dragonslayer-160. Leaving from Williamsburg, Kentucky and heading east, I had the opportunity to ride with a road crew from the Whitley County Riders Group as we rode out to Lynch, to connect to The Dragonslayer.

The journey was as beautiful as you can imagine, rolling hills, hollers, and the countryside of Kentucky. And if the beauty and roads aren’t enough, the region is rich, I mean rich with history. As we rolled along, passing the rustic ruggedness of abandoned mines and the communities that once fueled the Industrial Revolution, and an occasional Civil War memorial, I realized that this was also the region of the famous Hatfield and McCoy feud.

The Dragonslayer-160 comes in with 226 curves in 22 miles. It also boasts the highest mountain peak in Kentucky, Black

Mountain at 4,144’ where it overlooks one of the largest strip mines in the Appalachia Mountain chain, and then rapidly drops down into Appalachia, Virginia, the official start of the Dragonslayer-160.

Upon arriving at Lynch, we stopped at the welcome center to meet up with Erik and other riders. It’s important to note that part of the revitalization of these communities is workforce development and employment. Because this is truly a community effort; the welcome centers are predominantly staffed with those in addiction recovery.

While at the Lynch welcome center, Jay handed me one of their latest Trail cards, a 4” x 9.5” laminated card with a trail on each side. It’s not enough that there are over 32 trails, all of them uniquely named for Kentucky; Revenue Runner, To The Holler, Miners Slope 179, The Appalachian Autobahn and so forth, there are also trail cards that depict a geographical layout, a map if you will, of the trail and QR codes to scan for points of interest, fuel, food, attractions and more. Slip it in your pocket and go. Coming out later in June, is their interactive App. Simply scan the QR code and it’ll upload to your phone for point-to-point and turn-by-turn navigation.

All in all, there are over 2,600 miles of pristine trails and hundreds of points of interest on the trail cards.

If you’re interested in the re-discovery of America by getting on the road, be sure to check out BackroadsofAppalachia.org. Let’s Ride Eastern Kentucky!

–Indian Rider Bill