26 minute read
COLOUR FRIDAY Holly Tucker reveals why indies should take part in her indie-friendly Black Friday alternative
Down to Business
INSIGHT FOR FASHION INDIES
HOLLY TUCKER
A colourful alternative
As cash-conscious shoppers seek out promotions, Black Friday is expected to dominate the high street later this month. But what if there was an alternative for independents that championed small business rather than online conglomerates? Step forward Colour Friday, a new campaign by Holly and Co, spearheaded by small business champion Holly Tucker MBE. Here she reveals the concept behind the special day and how fashion indies can get involved…
IMAGES BY JAKE BAGGALEY
Bright idea
SMALL BUSINESS CHAMPION HOLLY TUCKER DISCUSSES COLOUR FRIDAY, THE INDIE-FRIENDLY ALTERNATIVE TO THIS MONTH’S DISCOUNTING EXTRAVAGANZA
“I ’m often asked why I am so obsessed with small businesses - and that question always makes me smile. You see, I am not actually fascinated by business itself. No, it’s more about the incredible opportunities running a small business offers, enabling each founder to live their life on their own terms, to live creatively, to build a life they love and to strive to be happy each day. Far from being a champion of business, my passion is for each founder, like you, who has poured their heart and soul into their trade, created magic in their own retail space, brought an independent shop to the high street and made the brave step to follow their dream.
“When I stepped back from notonthehighstreet.com and set about launching Holly and Co, I looked at the landscape for anyone who wanted to turn their passion into a small business. To be frank, I found the information on offer bleak and grey. It was essentially a government website or a very dull and serious book. Even television programmes portray running a business as scary, complicated and intimidating.
“That wasn’t my experience of business, and I don’t believe you need to swallow a business bible to make it work. Nor do I believe that it has to be grey and uninspiring. Business is the key to unlocking dreams. It’s creative, colourful and there’s no secret to success reserved just for the very few. Rather, I wanted to empower anyone with a dream.
“So, I decided to create the ultimate inspirational landscape for all small business founders. I started with my podcast, Conversations of Inspiration (at the time it was the first podcast hosted by a seasoned female businesswoman)! And I have also written a Sunday Times bestselling book: Do What You Love, Love What You Do.
Get involved
“Last year I launched my annual Colour Friday campaign, a day where I encourage everyone to reconsider their Black Friday mass consumption and encourage consumers to shop thoughtfully with small businesses during the biggest retail period of the year.
“We know this year is going to be one of our toughest Christmases yet. I’ve already had to take the difficult decision to close my Work/Shop, and I know thousands of you across the UK are in the same boat. We need to encourage this year’s Christmas shoppers to buy fewer gifts from big businesses and more from the smalls — and quite literally, use us or lose us.
“This year on 25 November we are encouraging the nation to swap Black Friday for Colour Friday and support the UK’s independents who work so hard to bring colour to grey. With your help, we can take a stand before it’s too late.
“There are so many ways independent retailers can get involved. If you head to my website (holly.co) you can download the free Colour Friday marketing pack filled with exclusive artwork that you can print out to put in your shop window or turn into stickers to pop on orders. You could even turn it into badges to gift to your in-store shoppers. The information also includes some of the biggest lessons I’ve learned in retail over the past 20 years as well as how you can make the shift from Black Friday to Colour Friday as a small business.
“I know how tough it’s out there for all of us this Christmas. I really hope you might pledge your support and take part in Colour Friday - I will be looking to each one of you to shout about it from the rooftops and get our collective voice heard. I wish you all the luck and success over these critical months and weeks.”
Holly Tucker MBE is a small business ambassador and founder of notonthehighstreet.com and Holly and Co. She offers advice and inspiration to indies through her podcast, book, Instagram accounts (@holly.co and @hollytucker) and online Advice Hub. Find out more via holly.co.
Help to grow
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Shop Talk
INDUSTRY OPINION
ELOISE RIGBY, THE PANTRY UNDERWEAR
The perfect fit
From friendly FaceTime fittings to enticing loyalty incentives, The Pantry Underwear is disrupting the market with its fresh take on bra and knickers shopping. Here founder Eloise Rigby (pictured) reveals the key strategies behind her unapologetically different indie underwear shop…
Bosom buddies
THE PANTRY UNDERWEAR IS DISRUPTING THE MARKET WITH ITS DUAL-CONCEPT STORES AND FRESH APPROACH TO RETAIL
Changing people's perceptions about buying bras is an ongoing pursuit for The Pantry Underwear founder Eloise Rigby, who opened her first store in Islington in 2016. “Women in the UK seem to place less value on underwear because it’s something that no one else sees,” she says. “In other countries it’s the opposite - the right bra can literally transform an outfit.”
The former marketing manager says there’s also an intergenerational belief that there’s only one place to buy underwear: “Marks and Spencer has cornered the market for decades,” she says. “The nation is so used to that experience that women often believe anything else is out of their price range. One of the biggest challenges I face as an indie underwear retailer is trying to shift that deeply ingrained idea.”
Now with a portfolio of three physical stores and a thriving e-commerce business, The Pantry Underwear is breaking the mould when it comes to bra and knickers shopping. Its team (AKA the Pant Patrol) offers a friendly and accessible service inside a contemporary and welcoming retail space. Or, if they prefer, via FaceTime fittings and consultations (set up during the lockdowns) with trained staff from the comfort of their own home.
Its range covers everything from everyday staples to maternity bras and sleepwear to special occasion lingerie and swimwear. Core labels include leading names Sloggi, Spanx, Calvin Klein Panache and Triumph through to indie labels like Dora Larsen.
And despite its top-level customer experience, highly curated product line-up and well considered physical store interiors, bras at The Pantry Underwear range from a reasonable £32 - £65 each.
Strong foundations
Spotting a gap in the market, Eloise opened her first store in September 2016 in Islington’s Camden Passage. Her original concept was to offer an alternative to “uninspiring lingerie departments” and “inaccessible boudoir-style boutiques.” Six years later that philosophy remains.
The Islington shop was an instant hit and after six months trading, Eloise was approached by Liberty London to open a concession: “It felt like too good an opportunity to turn down,” she says. “Liberty’s footfall is fantastic; the store attracts a high volume of shoppers and international tourists. It meant we were able to build a bigger customer base and it transformed the business in many ways.”
It wasn’t without its challenges, however. The indie owner points out that it’s quite unusual to open a multi-brand concession inside a department store under the umbrella of another brand. “We were effectively representing three tiers of brands: Liberty, The Pantry Underwear and then our suppliers,” she says. “For that reason, the customer’s exposure to our store as a brand was quite limited.”
In 2020, when the pandemic hit and the contract with Liberty was expiring, Eloise decided to pursue other avenues. “It was great precovid, but we were relying on Liberty to bring in the footfall, so when that couldn’t happen it was no longer viable for the business,” she explains.
In the interim Elosie had also opened a second standalone store in Saffron Walden. But this time she decided to step into a new sector with a new dual concept shop. Set across three floors, The Pantry Underwear and The Pantry Bridal merges the retailer’s intimate categories alongside a tight edit of British bridalwear.
“In terms of cross pollination, it just made perfect sense,” she says. “We already had a great bridal underwear offering, so we were able to use many of the same suppliers to bring dresses in too.”
Located in the store’s basement, The Pantry Bridalwear offers female-founded British brands that complement its aesthetic. More recently, it has also just launched its own-brand collection, which is made in-house by a dedicated dress maker. With The Pantry Underwear positioned on the top floor, customers can buy their entire wedding outfit under one roof (and return for honeymoon lingerie and everyday staples).
Mainstream move
In August 2021, The Pantry Underwear moved its original flagship store from the quirky Camden Passage to nearby retail development, Islington Square. Flanked by mainstream retailers, restaurants, salons, an upmarket Odeon and some fellow indies, the new unit boasts more space and a more conventional shop floor layout. “Our Camden Passage store wasn’t big enough and was quite a higgledypiggledy space,” says Eloise. “The new shop has more square footage with huge floor-to-ceiling windows. We’ve added in warm soft lighting and natural textiles to create an interesting space that’s practical yet still has the personality of an independent.”
The move to a modern development was also part of Eloise’s strategy to become more accessible to mainstream shoppers. “I’m proud to be an independent, but there’s still this conception that boutiques are expensive,” she explains. “We’re trying to get away from that, so positioning the store among high street brands like Anthropologie is all part of changing that preconceived idea.”
The retailer’s latest launch is a third standalone bricks-and-mortar store in Cambridge, which opened at the end of September. The shop is also dual concept with underwear and bridalwear set across separate floors. Inside there’s a greater depth of product lines and larger changing rooms as well as some artwork and products from local creators.
The owner says she’d been considering the city – her hometown - as a location for a couple of years and wanted to test the market with a trial unit. “We were able to negotiate a temporary contract with the landlord so we can establish whether it’s the right location for us,” she says. “It’s on the market square, so a great position with lots of footfall. It takes a while to build up a community, so it’s too early to say whether we’ll be staying longterm. However, it’s been popular so far and is among the likes of Whistles, Space NK and Sweaty Betty, which seems to be working well for us.”
Currently, Eloise has retained the Saffron Walden location as a studio space, but its customers are being redirected to Cambridge with tempting loyalty programme incentives. “We’ll keep both locations while we do the trial,”
says Eloise. “After that we’ll be able to reassess the best way to move forward with the business.”
Group chat
The Pantry Underwear stocks the same product range across its stores and e-commerce site, which Eloise says is an important part of its customer experience: “I don’t think it’s a good thing for shoppers to see something online, walk into that retailer’s physical store, and find it’s not stocked there,” she says. “I know some larger retailers are trying out marketplace models. And while I understand that from a commercial standpoint, it’s not the way we want to go.”
Eloise explains that its product portfolio is purposely comprehensive so not to alienate any portion of the market: “We do have a customer profile with loyal shoppers who fall into that category, but we are always aiming to broaden that. Stocking a large range comes with its challenges, but I couldn’t risk losing a new customer because there were holes in our sizes or styles. I’m always striving for that perfect customer experience.”
Another key part of its strategy is to never ever discount - a decision consciously made from the very beginning to protect the brand. "It can be difficult at times, especially when our suppliers start their promotions online,” Eloise says. “But it’s something we stick to.” Instead, the retailer offers its regular customers – fondly referred to as its ‘Pant Pals’ - a loyalty scheme. To be included, they sign up to receive its ‘Pant Post’ emails and agree for the retailer to keep a record of their size. Every transaction accrues credit in their account and once that reaches £20, they can spend it online or in-store.
While The Pantry is still on a growth trajectory for the year, Eloise says she’s slowly beginning to see the impact of the cost of living crisis. The indie owner works on the shop floor three days a week and says she’s seeing more shoppers delay making a purchase after a bra fitting: “After the whole rigmarole of being fitted, customers would always walk away with at least one new bra. Now we are getting more and more people asking us to save their size so they can come back on pay day.”
To tackle the issue, Eloise says the team is reacting with personalised marketing. So far, the retailer has reached out to anyone who had a virtual fitting during the lockdown, reminding them it may be time to be fit-checked. They have also contacted loyalty shoppers with enough (or almost enough) credit to receive money off their purchase. This has proved successful and has helped drive an increase in sales.
Eloise says Saturdays at the bricksand-mortar stores are still really busy. However, as many retailers would probably attest to, attracting midweek shoppers is more of a challenge. “This time of the year is interesting as people are preparing for Christmas but haven’t necessarily started buying presents yet,” she says. “Our focus at the moment is on driving footfall ourselves through repeat visits, partnerships with local organisations and our Pant Pal community.” Room for improvement
To further cement its position as an affordable and accessible retailer, The Pantry is also trialling new visual merchandising inside its stores. Eloise doesn’t favour using mannequins: “Boobs are soft and behave in a unique way that mannequins can’t replicate,” she says. Instead, shoppers can see Polaroids of real women wearing its bras (usually staff and regular customers) among the shop’s rails. This also includes written information, such as available cup sizes, fabrics and prices, so the options are immediately clear.
The retailer’s window displays are also different to a traditional shop front: “We use suspended rings and rails to showcase our products,” says Eloise. “I think a window with pretty yellow lingerie shown on mannequins could be alienating for some shoppers. They might take one look and immediately discount us.”
The stores’ window merchandising also often coordinates with its marketing campaigns. For example, The Pantry installed a display of love notes written by its customers for ‘Pal-entine's Day’ and donated £1 for every inclusion to the British Heart Foundation. It also uses letter boards outside its stores, proclaiming its “free fittings” and “A-K cup range” as well as “a bit of banter to make people smile.” Eloise says: “We don’t really invest in seasonal decorations - I think this is a much better way to get our personality across to potential customers.”
Moving into the final weeks of the year, the team behind The Pantry will be focusing on establishing its offer in Cambridge. Eloise says she is also investigating a higher tech version of its hugely popular virtual bra fittings using full-body 3D scanning and augmented reality.
When it comes to more bricksand-mortar stores, does the owner have any more locations in the pipeline? “I’m always on the lookout for new potential premises,” she says. “Who knows where we could be by this time next year.”
ANDREW GOODACRE, CEO AT BIRA, ON MAKING THE MOST OF THIS YEAR’S GOLDEN QUARTER
“Another month, another new prime minister - and another new government. I have heard people describe the last few months as a ‘permacrisis’ – a new word to describe the uncertainty everybody’s having to deal with at the moment. Yet, businesses and specifically retail has to focus at this moment in time as we are in the middle of the so-called golden quarter. It is at this time of year when many retailers traditionally see the strongest sales as shoppers come out and buy for Christmas.
“In the past few years we have seen the Black Friday phenomenon establish itself in the UK. Started by Amazon in the USA, it is always on the final Friday of November (the day after Thanksgiving in America), and it has now become a major retail event across the globe. In fact, what started out as a one-day sale has now become a more lengthy extravaganza. This year the focus on Black Friday seems to have started even earlier for some chain retailers, with offers beginning at the start of November as large businesses try to be first to market.
“From a small business perspective, I’m in two minds about Black Friday. There is no doubt that it is established as a shopping day, but its focus is on special offers and large discounts. This sales approach makes it a better opportunity for the big retailers where they might expect to achieve the sales volumes to compensate for the reduced profit margins on the items sold. Black Friday is also suited to businesses with a strong online presence and digital marketing channels to reach consumers.
“However, that is not to say that the indie retailer cannot take part, providing a couple of ‘rules’ are applied. Firstly, do not do blanket discounts across your entire product range. A sale should only be used to sell slow moving stock and there is no need to discount your best-selling items. Secondly, determine the price point or discount you are offering and promote it. Enlist all your marketing channels (and more) to tell consumers what you are offering. Black Friday should be used to attract new customers as well as rewarding your existing client base.
“I would also urge smaller retailers to consider a different approach to Black Friday this year. Successful independent retail is often built on creativity and being different, which is why Bira is supporting Colour Friday – an initiative launched last year by Holly Tucker. Its concept is about reminding shoppers to support small shops when making purchases on Black Friday, making it clear that it is not just about big business. It is a super idea that brings a point of difference and a marketing twist on an established event (visit holly.co/colour-Friday).
“Whatever your approach to the build-up this year, there is no doubt that this Christmas will be more important for retailers than ever. Individuality and creativity, supported by a lot of determination, will be the key characteristics that will help smaller retailers make the most of 2022’s golden quarter.”
Business boosters
THREE WAYS TO RECESSION-PROOF YOUR BUSINESS IN 2022 AND BEYOND
Boutiques as small businesses are the backbone of our economy, making up at least 26 per cent of the UK's retail sector. With talks of a looming recession and financial instability, it’s more important than ever to be reactive with your marketing strategy.
Start by targeting your typical customer demographic in the local area by setting up a Facebook Ad with an enticing message or offer. This will encourage more locals to pop in as well as generate word-of-mouth.
Alongside driving visitors to your physical store, getting your products onto multiple websites is another way to raise awareness - and it doesn’t have to be time consuming. With the right EPOS system in place, you can create product listings in minutes and add them to your own website, eBay, Amazon and more. Whenever something is sold in store, your websites will automatically adjust to the correct stock figure so there’s no risk of overselling.
Although the flow of new clients is crucial, it’s even more important to maintain customer loyalty by keeping in touch with your regular clients. Do this with the help of the CRM module of your EPOS system and ensure loyal shoppers never miss an offer, new product or exciting reward.
Much of this can be easily achieved with Top to Toe, the UK’s fashion specialist EPOS system. By enlisting the system this November or December, you could be selling on multiple channels, master reporting and running targeted marketing campaigns aimed at loyal customers sooner than you think. Rated 4.9/5 across major platforms with unlimited one-to-one support, investing into Top to Toe will serve your small business well for many years to come.
CONTACT:book an online demonstration with the Top to Toe team; Tel: 0203 376 5888 toptotoe.com
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We look forward to hearing from you... Julie @bpmedialtd.co.uk www.boutique-magazine.co.uk
HARI KRISHNADASAN, MD AT CAPRI LONDON, ON RETAIL IN THE FINAL WEEKS OF 2022
PHOTO BY MICROSOFT EDGE ON UNSPLASH
“With soaring inflation, rising interest rates and a volatile marketplace, it’s pretty clear where we’re heading. If we look at past recessions, 2008 will always stick out in my memory. It was the year I was made redundant from my job in the City of London and who can forget the credit crunch and financial chaos that ensued?
“The way brands respond to an economic downturn can have a significant impact on business in both the near and long-term future. The natural human inclination is to pull back, save funds and ride out the economic lows.
“But we can learn a lot from past recessions. The tried and tested advertising strategies of companies and brands show there are opportunities to gain market share - even in volatile conditions.
“As I looked into this idea further, I discovered that brands that continue to engage with consumers on an emotional and meaningful level build trust and a connection that will influence purchase behaviours. And that’s both now and in the future once economic conditions begin to stabilise.
“Kantar Index research points to success stories such as PepsiCo and Procter and Gamble, which both continued to spend on advertising and stayed the course of their planning at the height of the pandemic in 2020. Sticking to their strategy meant they were able to grow their revenues unlike many of their competitors.
“Economic downturns can also give brands a chance to get more bang for their buck, both from advertising and innovation. This can help drive sales during hard economic times and advertising can help move product.
“Colour Friday – the small business-friendly alternative to Black Friday – is shining a light on the creativity that independent businesses bring to the UK. The campaign is about raising awareness of the importance of small firms and asking consumers to swap some of their usual Christmas spend to independents instead. For indies, this is a great movement to be part of.
“It’s also worth considering this is the first Christmas where shoppers will expect an equal experience online and in-store. In 2020, people went digital out of necessity, while in 2021 shopping went hybrid but still leaned towards digital. This year, according to The Mars Agency, the pendulum has swung back to an integrated physical store and digital shopping experience. Brands and retailers should therefore try to strike a balance between in-store and online, creating an omnichannel marketplace with a great in-store experience and strong digital presence.”
Accessories Business
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Top To Toe Lyonsdown House 23-29 Hendon Lane, London, N3 1RT Software Systems T: 020 3376 5888 E: info@toptotoe.com
Events and Exhibitions
Boutique Star Awards Organiser : Boutique Professional Media Ltd T: Tel 01795 515288 E: Julie@bpmedialtd.co.uk Event Date : 8th November 2022
Harrogate Fashion Week Harrogate Convention Centre W: harrogatefashionweek.com T: +44 (0)1423 623 701 / 07551329675 E: sarah@harrogatefashionweek.com Show Dates : 5 – 6 February 2023
Home and Gift Harrogate Convention Centre Organiser: Clarion Events W: homeandgift.co.uk
Indx womenswear and footwear Cranmore Park Exhibition Centre Organiser: indx shows W: www.indxshows.co.uk INDX Woman- 1st-2nd February Opening Times: 1st February 8.30am-8.00pm 2nd February 8.30am-5.00pm Messe Frankfurt France E: visitorservice@france. messefrankfurt.com Show dates : 6-8 February 2023 at Paris le Bourget
Moda/ Autumn and Spring Fair Organiser: Hyve Group Website: www.moda-uk.co.uk
Pure London Organiser: Hyve Group Website: www.purelondon.com T: +44 (0)203 855 9550 E: visitor@purelondon.com Show Dates: 12 – 14 Feb 2023
Scoop Organiser: Hyve Ltd Website: scoop-international.com Show dates: 29-31 January 2023, Saatchi Gallery, Chelsea
Top Drawer Olympia – London Organiser: Clarion Events W: topdrawer.co.uk Show Dates: A/W 11 -13 September 2022 S/S 15 – 17 January 2023
Footwear
Caprice Shoes T: 07734 247 669 E: Capriceshoes@gmail.com W: www.capriceshoes.co.uk Facebook: /capriceshoes
Lofina Agent: Joanna Edwards Agency T: 07989014141/ 07512550346 W: www.shoebox.dk
Womenswear
Apt Collections: Brands: Alembika, Alquema, Elsewhere, Igor, Ozai n Ku, Philomena Christ Contact: Nigel Hughes T: 020 7580 3202 W: www.aptcollections.co.uk
Carol C Collections Brands : Foil, Orientique ,Tirelli, Oopera , Moke , Tara Vao Contact : Carol ,Andrew and Lisa T: 0800 6129009 E: info@carolccollections W: www.carolccollections.com
City Goddess/Goddiva/ Goddiva plus T: 0044 208 597 2744 E: sales@citygoddess.co.uk W: www.citygoddess.co.uk
Double H Agency Brands: Eden Park , St James . Contact: Marc Querol Linkedin - Facebook - Twitter - Instagram W: www.doublehagency.com T: 02034326387
Extravagance Brands: Sarah Pacini, Thanny, Caraclan, Marco Moreo shoes Contact: Nazma Chaudhry T: 07881 622 888 E: nazmachaudhry@gmail.com W: www.sarahpacini.com W: www.ny77design.com
From My Mothers Garden Contact name Penny Callaghan T: 07825 148040 / 01308 426517 E: info@frommymothersgarden.co.uk W: www.frommymothersgarden.co.uk Joseph Ribkoff Contact: Mark Rowe London showroom: by appointment only 1st floor, 40-41 great castle street, london w1w 8lu Jrdl uk ltd Addlepool business centre, clyst st george, exeter, devon ex3 0nr T: 01392- 876390 Partners In Fashion (2019) LTD Brands: Erfo – Franks Walder – Just White – Kris Fashion – Lecomte -Manisa -Maria Villalobos – Marina V – Relaxed by Toni – Toni 35 Percy Street London W1T 2DQ Contact: Cathy Vandeputte T: 020 7636 4207 E: cathy.vandeputte@ partnersinfashion.co.uk W: www.partnersinfashion.com
Pomodoro Contact : Noreen and Hemant E: info@pomodoroclothing.com W: pomodoroclothing.com T: 0208 961 4000
Leap N Link Ltd Brands: Pause Café , Fuego Woma – Oliver Philips – Bleu d’Azur Contact : Pierre & Bhavna T: 0161 713 1803 E: info@leapnlink.co.uk W:www.leapnlink.co.uk
Lily & Me Amari Designs Ltd, Unit 15, Gabwell Business Park, Quadrant Distribution Centre, Hardwicke, Gloucester, GL2 2JH T: 01566 779477 / 01566 772121 E: enquiries@lilyandmeclothing. com info@lilyandmeclothing.com W: www.lilyandmeclothing.com
MDA INTERNATIONAL Brands: Blueberry, Mama B, Mes Soeurs Et Moi, Kedziorek, Thing, Papucei, Baci & Amici. E: office@mdainternational.co.uk T: General: 020 7971 1084 Hannah: 07813925975 W: www.mdainternational.co.uk Instagram: mdainternational
Nomads 9 Western Road, Launceston, Cornwall, PL15 7AR Contact: Shallon and Jo T:01566 777 338 E:info@nomadsclothing.co.uk W: www.nomadsclothing.com
Olivia Darcy Luxury Womenswear , designed and made in Yorkshire E: info@oliviadarcy.co.uk W: www.oliviadarcy.co.uk/ Sally Dawes Agency Brands: ESTHEME CASHMERE, SFIZIO, INDIES, BLEU BLANC ROUGE, PRET POUR PARTIR T: 0776 997 03 87 E: sally@sallydawes.com W: www.sallydawes.com
Tate Fashions Brands: Lizabella, I.nco, Ella Boo, Bella Premium & Gracie B E: tatefashions@hotmail.com T: 07712398549 01132459064
Tempest Designs Brand names: Sarah Tempest Fashion Jewellery, Handbags & Accessories Contact: Michael Webster T: 01656 842102 E: enquiries @tempestdesigns.co.uk W: www.tempestdesigns.co.uk
Tor Fashion Brands: Cream, Frank Lyman, Orientique, Tirelli, Condici, Ispirato, MOKE T: 07855 481651 E: info@torfashion.co.uk W: www.torfashion.co.uk Instagram: torfashionltd
