47 minute read
GRID GOALS Our favourite posts from the ‘gram
FASHION FIX #Grid goals
TOP POSTS WE’VE LIKED ON THE ‘GRAM THIS MONTH
@biscuit_clothingandliving
“Autumn colours are starting to take precedence in the shops. Happy 1st September everyone!”
@geminiwomanuk
“…September is a very exciting month for us...we have lots of new season stock coming in and we are also in the Drapers Independent Awards finals…”
@youngideasfashion
“We’ve had lots of dreamy newness arrive from @bella_freud. Christmas has come early with these super cute boxed baubles…”
@eqwoman
“Not sure if our new windows predicted or jinxed the weather. Either way they are looking gorgeous @luciecookedesign…”
Social butterflies
@maryportasoffical
Follow the ‘queen of shops’ on Instagram for retail insight and opinion, small business tips and her thoughts on the ‘kindness economy.’
@elisa_ easylivesales
Danish live stream sales expert ELISA helps retailers sell their products via live video on Instagram and Facebook. Follow for top tips. THREE INSPIRATIONAL INSTAGRAM ACCOUNTS TO FOLLOW NOW
@sassyandboo
Offering beautiful colourful womenswear brands including its own Luella label, indie group Sassy and Boo offers stacks of inspiring content for its fashionable followers.
Fall in love
EMBRACE THE CHANGING SEASONS WITH LUELLA’S VIBRANT SHORT ORDER COLLECTION
Summer may be over, but Luella’s latest colourful collection is sure to bring warmth to cooler days. Exclusively designed by its in-house team in the Cotswolds, the brand’s collections are manufactured to the highest standards in Italy.
Its AW22 knitwear range features high content cashmere and merino wool yarns in rich berry shades, blue and evergreen pine balanced by core neutrals, charcoal and Arctic white. The range has been designed as a complete merchandised rail and includes a fresh collection of cotton dresses and shirts in complementary tones.
Luella’s dresses are effortlessly stylish and designed to be worn from weekday to weekend. Made from soft viscose, there’s a range of statement prints, styles and lengths to choose from to suit all shoppers and tastes.
When it comes to Christmas, Luella’s festive styles go all-out on glamour with shimmer and sparkle sequin skirts alongside cosy knits with metallic threads and glimmering details. Standouts include its sequin arm knits to bring glitz to everyday dressing and its all over sequin skirts, which are perfect for seasonal celebrations.
Ordering Luella’s collection is easy and the range is available for fast delivery directly from its Cotswoldsbased warehouse.
CONTACT:Tel: 01454 238 940 luellafashion.com
Autumn florals
CELEBRATE THE NEW SEASON WITH FROM MY MOTHER’S GARDEN’S LATEST BOTANICALINSPIRED WOMENSWEAR
Created by boutique owner Penny Callaghan, From My Mother’s Garden is a celebration of nature. Bold in both colours and sentiment, the wearable art collection blends sustainable fabrics and exclusive prints with timeless womenswear shapes and accessories. At the heart of the range are its colourful kimono jackets and long robes in silky viscose and velvet. There’s also a growing line of womenswear and pretty accessories. For AW22 the collection is dominated by opulent jewel tones with prints featuring hydrangeas, dahlias and
peonies. The brand is introducing new products this season including georgette mid-length kimonos and long silky robes. Buyers can also expect feminine tulle dresses, skirts and tops as well as stretch cotton floral camo print trousers in three different colourways. There’s also a velvet collection with dresses, kimonos, stoles, palazzos and duster coats. The range is complemented by accessories including bamboo scarves, make-up bags, cuffs, collars and - new for this season - two styles of crossbody handbags. Wholesale prices range from £8 to £49 while the minimum order requirement is £300. CONTACT:Tel: 07825 148 040 E: info@frommymothersgarden.co.uk frommymothersgarden.co.uk
Stock Up
WHAT TO BUY NOW
ANDAM AW22
Cold call
Autumn has arrived and shoppers will soon be stocking up on warm layers and winter woollens. Here we pick out some super-cosy knits, homewares and accessories ready for when the temperature drops…
Getting cosy
AS TEMPERATURES PLUMMET AND ENERGY PRICES RISE, SHOPPERS WILL BE LOOKING FOR EXTRA COSY PIECES TO BUNKER DOWN IN
With energy prices set to reach record highs this winter, shoppers will be turning down their thermostats and reaching for warm fashion and homewares. So from sumptuous knits to cosy cushions and candles, we pick out some key pieces for AW22 that will help bring customers in from the cold…
PADDED GILET, NOTES DU NORD, £POA
GIANT CUSHION, CHALK, £POA CANDLE, CHALK UK, £POA
TOP, BY BASICS/ OWN, £POA
JOGGERS, ARMEDANGELS, £POA SOCKS, ARMEDANGELS, £POA HOT WATER BOTTLE, CHALK UK, £POA
DELILAH SHEEPSKIN SLIDERS, EASTERN COUNTIES LEATHER, £POA
HAT, MUNTHE, £POA
EARMUFFS, BARBOUR, £POA MITTENS, PEOPLE TREE, £POA
SCRUNCHIE, SUMMERY COPENHAGEN, £POA SHEEPSKIN COAT, MUNTHE, £POA
NOAH LIGHTNING SWEATSHIRT, SUGARHILL BRIGHTON, £POA SCARF, SAMSOE SAMSOE £POA
CARDIGAN, PEOPLE TREE, £POA
SLIPPERS, EMU AUSTRALIA, £POA DEBBIE LEATHER GLOVES, EASTERN COUNTIES LEATHER, £POA
ARMEDANGELS E: shop@armedangels.com, BARBOUR E: sales@barbour.com, BY BASICS/ OWN E: pg@bybasics.com, CHALK UK chalkuk.com/wholesale, EASTERN COUNTIES LEATHER ecltrade.co.uk, EMU AUSTRALIA Tel: 0207 713 2080, MUNTHE E: hlm@munthe.com, NOTES DU NORD E: sales@notesdunord.com, PEOPLE TREE E: wholesale@peopletree.co.uk, SAMSOE SAMSOE E: vitus@samsoe.com, SUGARHILL BRIGHTON E: wholesale@sugarhillbrighton.com, SUMMERY COPENHAGEN E: tadas@summerycopenhagen.com
THE FASHION TROUSERS BRAND
London
To view UK showroom dates and show venues near you please visit www.godske.com/g-en/trade-shows
Available now
TOP UP YOUR STOCK THROUGHOUT THE SEASON WITH THESE QUALITY SHORT ORDER COLLECTIONS
CAPRI LONDON
GODDIVA BY CITY GODDESS
Offering high quality occasion and eveningwear at competitive prices, Goddiva reworks the latest catwalk and red-carpet trends into affordable gowns and dresses. Available for in-season delivery exclusively via City Goddess, its AW22 collection features slinky satin in opulent jewel tones, sparkling sequins and bold embellishments. Amethyst and emerald contrast with jet black and luxe gold in sumptuous satins and sheers. With a nod to Art Nouveau style, key pieces include a black maxi dress with gold sequins, a party-season-perfect long-sleeved gown embellished with emerald sequins as well as a knee-length body-con LBD featuring a Bardot neckline adorned with black feathers. City Goddess offers stockists a dedicated account manager, low minimum order requirements and instant access to hi-res images. Its new-look website, launching soon, will also offer buy-now-pay-later credit terms. Wholesale prices are around £25 to £35 per piece on average while the minimum order requirement is £150.
CONTACT: Tel: 0208 597 2744 E: customer.support@citygoddess.co.uk citygoddess.co.uk
Designed in the UK, Capri London offers relaxed womenswear styles in effortless shapes and ethical fabrics such as bamboo, cotton Lycra and cotton cord. Its designs are led by fit and it reworks its best-selling shapes each season with new hand-drawn exclusive prints. Colourblocking and patchwork prints give its styles a unique point of difference while its use of cosy textured jerseys helps its collections stand out. For AW22, its line-up combines natural fabrics, clever use of colour and contemporary styling. The brand’s prints are inspired by primary shapes, which are manipulated in the studio to create striking abstracts. Hero pieces include a new 21 wale cord cotton shirt dress, colour-block bubble hem dress and cowl neck tunic. Stockists are offered branding blocks, POS advertising and access to its image bank to help drive sales. Wholesale prices are around £25 per piece on average while there is no minimum order requirement for new customers.
CONTACT: Tel: 0203 819 0819 E: sales@capriclothing.co.uk capriclothingonline.com
SCREAM PRETTY
British jewellery brand Scream Pretty creates luxe and affordable jewellery designed in the UK. Its range is packed with stylish high-quality jewellery options - from wear-all-day huggie hoops, ear cuffs and threader earrings to mismatched stud sets, pendants, rings and layering chains. Named Emerging Brand of the Year 2020 by Retail Jeweller magazine, its designers create on-trend jewellery with an edge. The brand’s signature style is the curated ear, combining piercings and ear cuffs in eclectic and co-ordinated combinations. Its earrings and ear cuffs are cast from recycled sterling silver to help protect the planet’s natural resources. The brand’s latest in-season collection embraces the ‘dopamine dressing’ trend, offering mood-enhancing colours and feel-good retro designs. Wholesale prices range from £9.95 to £21.95 while the minimum order requirement is £200.
CONTACT:E: trade.screampretty.com tradescreampretty.com
LUELLA
Launched in 2013, British brand Luella offers high quality short order knitwear and womenswear in feel-good colours and standout prints. Led by independent retailer and founder Alison Townshend, buyers can expect capsule ranges that make buying and merchandising easy. The label’s signature soft cashmere blend knitwear is manufactured in Italy with one of the highest cashmere contents available on the high street. For AW22 its line-up includes super-soft knits and easy-to-wear dresses in an autumnal palette of rich berries, vibrant blues and pine greens balanced by core neutrals, charcoal and Arctic white. Key pieces include its colour block cashmere-blend Tamsin Tank, which looks great styled with its range of printed cotton shirts, its best-selling Tess Jumper in new-season colours and its classic Margot shirt dress available in both long and midi lengths. Luella holds stock all-yearround in its large UK-based warehouse for immediate delivery.
CONTACT: Tel: 01454 238 940 luellafashion.com
EXPRESS IN SEASON COLLECTION
Wardrobe basics
CREATE THE PERFECT CAPSULE WARDROBE BY ADDING A FEW NEW PIECES EACH SEASON
Danish label by basics believes in slow fashion and adopts an ethical approach throughout its entire operation. All of its styles are made from natural fabrics and produced in Europe with a strong focus on high quality. Importantly, each garment is made to order to reduce waste and protect the planet - meaning buyers can choose the exact number of styles, colours and sizes for their specific customer base.
The perfect capsule wardrobe should include the garments and colours your customers’ love and feel great wearing. Here’s how to help shoppers create a conscious selection of clothes without harming the planet or their wallet...
Find the basics and ensure they’re all favourites - this will create a great foundation for everything else. Basics depend on your customers’ daily needs, but will most likely include a few t-shirts and trousers as well as a shirt and dress.
Find the basic add-ons: does your customer love wearing skirts and dresses? Add an extra of each.
Choose the perfect colour mix combine basics with favourite accent colours to bring extra sparkle to their style. Go for colours that can be mixed and matched for easy styling.
Add seasonal selections such as a woollen hat and shirt for winter or linen dress for summer. Include a cardigan and some shirts to create layers for any season.
Remember, personality is important - it’s not all about the basics. Finish with styles and colours that create your customer’s unique look.
Add a few new styles
The idea of a basics wardrobe is that it is timeless. But your customers’ needs will change over time, clothes will get worn out or they’ll want to try something new, so offer advise on reusing and recycling pre-loved clothes and help them choose some new ethical styles.
The by basics collection does not change each season. So when they’ve found their perfect cardigan you can reorder it again later, ensuing customers can always keep their favourites.
EASY TO LOVE
Danish label by basics offers ethical fashion in a world of colours and natural fabrics for building the perfect basics wardrobe. Choose from 100 per cent mulesing-free merino wool, organic cotton, bamboo, linen, brushed wool, cotton wool and poplin. All of the brand’s styles are designed in Denmark and produced in Europe to order, reducing waste and protecting the planet.
CONTACT:pg@bybasics.com bybasics.com
Fashion Extras
GEMMA WARD PICKS OUT THIS MONTH’S BEST BAGS, JEWELLERY AND FOOTWEAR
Jump through hoops Ethically made from silver plated brass, People Tree’s Small Beaten Hoop Earrings are an update on a classic. Each pair comes inside a gift bag made from fabric off-cuts. £POA; E: wholesale@peopletree.co.uk Snow day Made from premium waterresistant Australian sheepskin with waterproof rubber trims, Emu Australia’s Blurred boots are ready for any cold-weather adventure. £POA; Tel: 0207 713 2080
Timekeeper Decorated with a bold bumblebeeprint dial, Londonetti’s vegan leather strap Bee Watch is the perfect accessory for enhancing womenswear this AW22. £POA; E: trade@newgateworld.com
Rain or shine Designed for its inaugural Paris Fashion Week show, Rains’ first solo footwear range includes two reinterpretations of the classic combat boot made with water-repellent fabric. £POA; E: jc@rains.com It’s a date Made in Italy using the country’s best materials, D.A.T.E sneakers’ AW22 collection encompasses contemporary styles in vintage-inspired colourways. £POA; Tel: 07816 893 902 E: claire@goldfinchagency.com
By candlelight Created in collaboration with Japanese studio Nendo, Georg Jensen has relaunched its stunning silver organic-shaped candle holders in stainless steel. £POA; E: info@georgjensen.com
Radio magic A remake of a cult Italian design from the 1960s, Brionvega’s Radio. Cubo has been updated for 2022 with digital and Bluetooth functions. Choose from several colourways. £POA; E: mattia.franzini@sim2.it
Cosy night-in Handmade in Yorkshire, Cosy Cottage Soap offers eco-friendly all-natural bodycare products such as its new mood-enhancing Cosy Spa massage oils. £POA; E: wholesale@cosycottagesoap.co.uk
Happy shopper Created as part of its AW22 Smart Rebels Collection, Armedangel’s reusable tote bag is perfect teamed with its timeless sustainable womenswear. £POA; E: shop@armedangels.com
Sustainable steps Italian sneakers brand Premiata creates sustainable footwear made from 80 per cent renewable materials such as its John low-top sneakers. £POA; E: showroom@premiata.it
Hug it out Crafted in 18ct gold plated sterling silver, Lily Charmed’s Hug Ring is the ultimate gift for best friends. Each comes in its own hand-tied ribbon gift box. £17.95; tradelilycharmed.com Moonshine Featuring sparkling half-moons and dainty gold chains, Scream Pretty’s reverse huggies can be combined with its clear stone huggies to create a cool-girl ear stack. £POA; tradescreampretty.com
Recycling day Designed in Switzerland and handmade in Europe, INUIKII Footwear creates state-of-the-art styles in recycled and sustainable materials. €102.50; Tel: 0041 448626118 E: nicole@inuikii.com
Dancing queen With comfort-driven footbeds and elegant design details, Caprice’s green sling-back court shoes are the perfect choice for enhancing occasionwear edits this SS23. £POA; E: capriceshoes@gmail.com
Making scents Developed using some of the most precious fragrance elements in the world, 15DegreesLondon’s Eau de Parfum Trio features an intoxicating cocktail of scents. £POA; E: sofia@blackpr.co.uk
Scandi style With a modern pale plywood case and minimalist graphic dial, Newgate’s Monopoly Wall Clock will bring a Scandi aesthetic to any interior. £POA; newgatetrade.com
Feeling blue Munthe’s sustainable beanie hats will add a pop of colour to winter outfits until the warmer weather returns. Available in numerous colourways with matching scarves, £POA; E: hlm@munthe.com
Selling made easy
BOOST YOUR BUSINESS IN TIME FOR CHRISTMAS WITH BOUTIQUE MAGAZINE’S FREE LIVE SHOPPING WEBINAR
Boutique magazine is hosting its first free webinar next month in conjunction with live stream selling specialist ELISA. All indies are invited and we’ll be sharing invaluable information on how you can dramatically increase your profits using live videos on social media.
Live stream shopping is a game changer for indies selling online, particularly during the golden quarter. With Black Friday, Cyber Monday and Christmas all just around the corner, tapping into the huge influx of online traffic these events bring will be essential for retailers that want to boost profits during the short autumn/winter selling season.
Selling via live video on Instagram and Facebook means you can potentially reach thousands of shoppers in minimal time while still offering a boutique shopping experience. Many UK indies are already harnessing the benefits of live streaming and are boosting their revenue stream in the process. However, if an indie’s lives generate too many sales for its small team to manage, the retailer can become a victim of its own success. And that’s where ELISA comes in.
The solution makes live shopping easy for both the retailer and consumer. The system’s ‘comment selling robot’ automatically sends product links to viewers, creating a seamless experience for shoppers and simplifying the process for you. Throughout the live stream, ELISA keeps track of viewer comments and automatically adds orders to customers’ baskets while watching inventory levels. Customers can choose their delivery method and pay online while they’re still watching or after the stream has finished. This means there’s less work for the retailer and a more cohesive buying journey for consumers.
Want to know more? Join Boutique magazine founder Julie Neill and ELISA’s Joris Volmering on Monday 10 October for a free webinar, which will take a deep dive into live streaming and how it can generate extra revenue for indies. Sign up today at elisa-io.webinargeek.com/ live-shopping.
THREE INDIES ALREADY UTILISING ELISA
TOPSHOP
Danish womenswear indie Topshop sells products via its physical store and Facebook. Owner Marianne Degn began utilising live stream shopping during the lockdowns when her store was forced to close. And to keep up with the increasing number of orders, she enlisted ELISA. Her main aim was to gain an overview of sales and automate the administrative process so she could concentrate on other aspects of running the business and create more live events. STATS: The indie’s most successful live streams have pulled in 30,500 viewers and 10,000 comments. Topshop also sold 1,953 products during just one event, generating two weeks’ worth of revenue in two hours. RETAILER VERDICT: “We absolutely love ELISA. Our sales and reach have grown more than we could have dreamed of! It’s super easy to use and the support from its team is without comparison. We absolutely recommend using ELISA for live shopping and social commerce.”
NODGE BY NAGY
Swedish indie Nodge by Nagy doesn’t operate its own online store, but creates extra revenue with live shopping events. Founder Åsa Nagy decided to sell her products via live streams so she could offer a personal service while engaging with many shoppers at once. Thanks to ELISA, the admin is now fully automated as the system manages comments, keeps track of the inventory and shares the correct information. STATS: Nodge by Nagy has increased its daily customer base from 30 to 100 shoppers while boosting revenue by 50 per cent. The retailer has received as many as 25,000 views during one live event and 9,600 comments. RETAILER VERDICT: “With live auctions we get more customers both in our physical store and online. Without ELISA, we’d never be able to reach out to so many people - let alone keep up with the messages.” DRESS CHESHIRE
UK indie Dress Cheshire sells preloved womenswear and accessories both in its physical store and online. Its owner Christine Colbert also hosts live shopping events on Facebook where she can reach both existing and new potential shoppers thanks to the platform’s video-favouring algorithm. By enlisting ELISA, viewers can easily purchase products directly through the comment section as the ‘comment selling robot’ responds to viewers instantly by sending a purchase link. STATS: The retailer has seen a dramatic uplift in sales, from £1,835 during its very first live sales event to £3,299 in the second and £11,238 in the third live show. RETAILER VERDICT: “I love using ELISA since it takes care of all the admin work. With live sales, I am not only increasing my revenue, but also keeping my audience engaged with ‘Special Buys,’ which is a price I set for selected items only available through ELISA. People love it!”
LIVE SHOPPING WEBINAR
WHEN: 10am on Monday 10 October WHY: Join Boutique magazine’s free webinar to find out how you can boost your business with live shopping. ELISA’s Joris Volmering will present you with amazing stats from independent retailers that are flying high with social selling. SIGN UP: elisa-io.webinargeek.com/live-shopping
Down to Business
INSIGHT FOR FASHION INDIES
HARPER SUNDAY
Fabrics guide
Sustainability has become an important consideration for buyers when choosing their new-season edits. Here we reveal some popular eco-friendly fabrics to look out for and some key suppliers to bookmark…
Alternative fabrics
A GUIDE TO FASHION’S FAVOURITE SUSTAINABLE FABRICS (AND WHERE YOU CAN BUY THEM)
ORGANIC COTTON FROM CAPRI
LYOCELL FROM LILY AND ME
RECYCLED POLYESTER FROM LILY AND ME
ECOVERO LENZING FROM LILY AND ME
ECONYL FROM MASARA
BAMBOO FROM CAPRI LONDON MULESING-FREE MERINO WOOL FROM BY BASICS
LINEN FROM BY BASICS
BIOCIR FROM BALENA
ORGANIC COTTON
Dubbed “the world’s dirtiest crop,” non-organic cotton uses synthetic chemical inputs like nitrogen fertilisers and artificial pesticides to grow, which contributes to climate change. Womenswear brands are increasingly introducing organic alternatives that are cultivated without harmful chemicals to help keep soils and rivers healthy. “We have been using sustainable cotton for the past three years now in all our collections,” says Capri London’s Hari Krishnadasan (capriclothingonline.com). “There are many benefits, such as using less water for irrigation, which can be used by other local water users and natural habitats instead. The cotton seed is grown without using synthetic chemicals while farmers also benefit as they can sell at the organic price.”
BAMBOO
Softer and more luxurious than cotton, bamboo is a great sustainable alternative for womenswear. It doesn’t need pesticides to grow and helps clean the air as its grass absorbs five times more CO2 than equivalent hardwood trees. Meanwhile, because it’s grass, it regrows when harvested. “We introduced bamboo for the first time in Capri London’s AW22 collection,” say Hari. “As well as being more sustainable than more traditional fashion fabrics, it’s three times more absorbent than cotton. The bacteria that makes clothing smell doesn’t sit on the surface as it does with synthetics, helping our clothes stay fresher for longer and reducing the need to wash so frequently.”
ECOVERO LENZING
Derived from certified renewable wood sources using an ecoresponsible production process, Ecovero Lenzing is a great sustainable alternative to traditional viscose. Its fibres generate 50 per cent lower emissions and water impact plus the fabric is fully biodegradable. British brand Lily and Me offers dresses and separates in the material, with various options available for AW22 (lilyandmeclothing.com). “Our Ecovero Lenzing woven viscose is available in two prints - Zebra and Pansy – this season,” says the brand's Polly Webb. “Meanwhile, our Giraffe print Ecovero Lenzing viscose elastane has been extremely popular, particularly in the Witcombe skirt and dress.”
RECYCLED POLYESTER
Polyester is one of fashion’s favourite fabrics, with nearly half of the world’s clothing made from the synthetic material. It’s made from polyethylene terephthalate – a common type of plastic – meaning it’s not a sustainable choice for shoppers. As an alternative, more brands are using recycled polyester. Created by melting down existing plastic and re-spinning it into a new polyester fibre, it uses less resources and keeps things like discarded drinks bottles out of landfill. Lily and Me has created a line of knitwear this season using a wool and recycled polyester blend. “Our new knitwear includes recycled polyester derived from household plastics,” says Polly. “It takes 50 per cent less energy to make clothes from recycled plastics compared to virgin polyester without compromising on hand feel or performance.” LYOCELL
Made using wood pulp from sustainable sources, lyocell – or Tencel – was first developed in 1972. The fabric is considered semi-synthetic as it is processed with synthetic substances, much like viscose. However, it uses 20 per cent less emissions and up to 50 per cent less water compared to cotton while it’s also fully compostable and biodegradable. This season, Lily and Me has introduced a cotton and lyocell blend throughout its denim range, with several garments on offer including its Rowan Jacket (pictured left).
MULESING-FREE MERINO WOOL
Mulesing is a painful procedure for sheep, which involves cutting skin away from their rear to prevent potentially life-threatening parasitic infections. PETA strongly opposes mulesing, describing the practice as cruel and painful and calling for wider use of alternatives such as special diets and spray washing. Danish label by basics/ blusbar (bybasics. com) offers short order merino wool garments from mulesing-free sheep, which have been treated humanely. All of its styles are Oeko-Tex certified and biodegradable with everything made to order to reduce waste.
LINEN
Strong, moth resistant and made from flax plant fibres, linen is one of the oldest fibres on earth – making it the original sustainable alternative. The flax plant can grow in poor soil unsuitable for food production and can even rehabilitate infected soil. Plus, it also boasts a high carbon absorption rate, making it an eco-friendly choice for fashion. OWN by basics offers 100 per cent linen garments in numerous styles and colourways. “It’s breathable and highly absorbent,” says the brand’s Gitte Borup. “All by basics/ OWN styles are garment-dyed and Standard 100 by Oeko-Tex certified, with production taking place right here in Europe.”
ECONYL
Perfect for swimwear, Econly is made using nylon waste such as discarded fishing nets and carpets that otherwise pollute the earth. It undergoes a complex process that produces a premium quality fabric resistant to sun cream, chlorine and pilling. “Econly is a more viable solution to virgin nylon that is sustainable and better for the environment overall,” says Francesca Fabric, founder of Italian swimwear specialist Masarà (masaramilano.com). “The fabric is also made in Italy where our beautiful swimwear is created, so using it for our collections means we can also cut down on our carbon footprint.”
BIOCIR
Lastly, material science company Balena has created the world’s first pair of fully circular slides using biodegradable material BioCir (pictured left). Its breakthrough thermoplastic material will go through a biodegradation process when placed in a compost environment – leaving no waste behind after use. The company says there are plans in the pipeline for future collaborations with major footwear manufacturers, so watch this space.
HARI KRISHNADASAN, MD AT CAPRI LONDON, ON THE IMPORTANCE OF TRANS-SEASONAL FASHION AMID CLIMATE CHANGE
“W e are facing a climate crisis and the effects are already being felt across the world. From unprecedented heatwaves and deadly flash floods to rising sea levels and wildfires, it’s clear that climate change is not a future threat but a present reality.
“The colossal carbon impact of clothing occurs at every stage of the fashion supply chain and product life cycle. However, 70 per cent of fashion’s emissions originate from upstream activities such as raw material production and processing. Generally, the most common carbon intensive phases are dyeing and finishing, yarn preparation and fibre production. These processes are massively underrated by many fashion brands, which mostly account for the emissions of their own operations such as transport.
“With more and more brands making commitments to position themselves as sustainable, most are basing this on specific materials and not the full life cycle of the garments. This includes switching to renewable energy and considering solutions for the full front-to-back workforce and supply chain. Technology plays a part here and some processes cannot be sustainable yet due to the tech being not quite there.
“Meanwhile, years of mild winters have resulted in excess inventory of outerwear and heavy knits. Brands like Capri London have adapted and produce collections that are disconnected from the seasons. Our pieces are lighter, softer and airier with finer gauges to give people flexibility and options to layer. Winter clothing traditionally appears in stores towards the mid to end of summer. However, if weather patterns continue to result in hotter and longer summers, extending into the autumn as it has been doing for many years now, then shoppers will delay buying winter clothes until they feel the cold weather has arrived. This means early sales of outerwear and knits could be delayed and suppliers may ship in-season, resulting in price cuts in-store as customers expect retailers to be on sale. This would harm both suppliers and retailers.
“When the warm weather starts as early as March and extends into October and even November, it throws off the seasonal retail calendar. Consumers are wearing the same clothes for longer periods of time and are just foregoing the seasonality. The calendar might say it’s autumn, but the last thing on people’s minds is buying coats and jumpers for their wardrobes when the temperature outside is 20+ degrees.”
HARROGATE
FASHION WEEK
A BIG THANK YOU TO EVERYONE WHO ATTENDED AND SUPPORTED HARROGATE FASHION WEEK
JOIN US NEXT SEASON ON THE 5TH - 6TH FEBRUARY 2023 TO EXHIBIT CALL SARAH: 07551329675
Shop Talk
GEMINI WOMAN
INDUSTRY OPINION
Off the rail
Claire Wright has vivid memories of opening the first Gemini Woman, not least because she was about to give birth to her first child. Fast-forward to 37 years later and the business has gone from one single store to a group and then back again. Here she talks to Gemma Ward about loyalty, profits and staying calm in a crisis…
Flying high
A RETAIL OWNER FOR 37 YEARS, GEMINI WOMAN FOUNDER CLAIRE WRIGHT DISCUSSES THE IMPORTANCE OF BUILDING CUSTOMER LOYALTY AND EVOLVING WITH THE TIMES
In the summer of 1985, just a week before welcoming her first child into the world, Claire Wright opened the first Gemini Woman. That store in Banbury rapidly grew into a small group before scaling back down to one again. Today the business boasts a hugely popular bricks-andmortar store in Stratford-upon-Avon alongside a thriving e-commerce operation. And its original team, which started small, has grown into a troupe of 21 members - the baby, now a grown woman, included.
Owner Claire remains as involved as she was 37 years ago, steering the business through many challenges over the decades while evolving with changing consumer behaviour.
Retail career
But retail wasn’t always part of her career plan. After leaving school as an aspiring photographer, Claire began working for a local jeweller as a stopgap before university. And the rest, as they say, is history. “I quickly realised that I loved selling – and I was very good at it,” she says. “I’ll always remember my first big sale: a diamond and ruby ring I sold to a gentleman who’d only come in for a small gift for his wife. One day a chap came in and I sold him a rather expensive Breitling watch. He was so impressed that he came back to offer me a job.”
The position was for denim retailer The Westerner, which operated several stores around the UK. Claire began working on the shop floor before progressing to assistant manager. Later she was asked to travel to other stores within the group on holiday cover. And during this time her sales skills really began to get noticed: “Sales would increase quite substantially every time I was working at a store,” she says. “I eventually worked across the company to help boost revenue.”
By 1985 life had changed quite dramatically for Claire. She was now married, owned her own home and was pregnant with her first child. And it was at this point that she decided to go it alone and open her first boutique.
The first Banbury-based Gemini Woman was a huge success and was quickly followed by a second in Leamington Spa then another in Stratford-upon-Avon. But as changes occurred in the towns and Claire gave birth to her son in 1995, she decided to concentrate on one single boutique. “I wanted to have one really good shop instead of trying to spread myself too thinly,” she says. “I really admire people who run multiple boutiques, but for me I felt it was easier to manage one, especially with two children. I decided to focus on Stratford as my parents also ran a shoe shop there and it was closest to where I lived.”
The Gemini Woman
Today Gemini Woman operates one store in Stratford-upon-Avon, stocking European brands such as Masai Clothing, Amazing Woman, Robell, MamaB, Thing, Sandwich Clothing, Sahara, Orientique, Adini
and Coster Copenhagen. The owner describes the store’s line-up as “easy wear, easy care” with elevated basics that shoppers can wear every day.
Meanwhile, after taking over her parents’ shoe shop in 2001 and subsequently amalgamating it onto Gemini’s main shop floor, the boutique also offers a strong footwear line-up from brands such as Kennel und Schmenger, Victoria, Emu Australia, Ash and Caprice. “Bringing everything under one roof was an emotional decision as my parents had been running that store (originally Strutters, then renamed Gemini Shoes) since the 1980s,” says Claire. “The type of product we sell has evolved as it’s now tailored to complement our womenswear.”
Retail tech
As well as bringing her natural flair for selling and customer service to the business, Claire was a trailblazer in customer loyalty too. Gemini Woman was an early adopter of EPoS at the beginning of the 1990s, which led it to developing its own customer database. “That in itself really helped escalate the business as we were able to market to the people who were already shopping with us,” she says. “By the early 00s we created our own loyalty scheme and moved to bigger premises, which really increased our revenue. I just knew from then on that loyalty was something we needed to keep building on.”
Once a customer spends £75, they are automatically placed on Gemini Woman’s retention programme and will begin receiving silent promotions by email or post. “We’ll send out specific offers that are only available for our loyalty shoppers,” says Claire. “For instance, higher spending customers might receive a voucher worth £30 to spend on transactions over a certain value. We’re found the more discount we offer, the better the return. Around 50 per cent can end up using it, which is great for boosting revenue.”
The store has also introduced its own in-house brochure, which it publishes eight times a year. These include a mix of brand-specific brochures (a recent version focusing on the different shapes available in Robell’s trousers range did very well) as well as seasonal edits featuring multiple brands. “These are really key for us now and help to build loyalty,” says Claire. “We send out hard copies to our loyalty customers and digital versions to online shoppers. They’re really great for promoting what’s available at Gemini and increasing sales.”
Move to online
By 2008, before the financial crash, Claire had invested in the launch of Gemini Woman’s first transactional website. “One of our former staff members, who had been working for Arcadia at the time, came back to help create the site,” she says. “We ran it as a business within a business and it did well right from the beginning.”
Despite the economic woes of the time, the site was re-platformed just a couple of years later and by 2012 it was a lucrative business in its own right. Today the online operation is run by a team of 13 people with picking and packing taking place inhouse at its Stratford store.
Claire says online differs quite considerably from bricks-andmortar retail and that “moving into e-commerce was a real eye-opener.” Its customer base, for example, is split into two: those who buy fullprice items and those who only purchase discounted lines. “Selling online means you can have a sale running 52 weeks a year,” she says. “So, both of these shoppers are equally important – and they need marketing to specifically.”
Competing with huge corporations is also part and parcel of running an online business. And for Claire, this can often mean going into sale earlier than she’d like to or partaking in national events like Black Friday. “When you sell online you are visible to the rest of retail, so even if the likes of Mint Velvet and Jigsaw go into sale early, it means you have to introduce some sort of offer to compete,” she says. “Black Friday is a prime example. I know a lot of boutiques stand fast and don’t do it, but the reality is that you will miss out on a huge volume of traffic if you don’t get involved.”
Learning curve
The owner says some of the biggest lessons she’s learned as a small business owner have been from the tough times, whether that’s been an economic downturn or Brexit: “There have been many times when I’ve had sleepless nights,” she says. “Because sometimes, no matter what you do, consumers just don’t shop and there’s not a lot you can do about it. But my advice to other indies is to collect data so you can communicate with your customer base. Always reward your best customers, but don’t forget about the others as one day they might end up becoming your best too.”
For Claire and many other indies, one of the biggest challenges was the pandemic. One best-selling brand she doesn’t want to name went into administration – leaving a huge gap in the store’s product offer and revenue. So, while Gemini Woman was set up to sell online and had been operating successfully for 12 years, it was still left in a dangerous position. “I decided to be very cautious from the first lockdown and pulled everything back, really going right back to basics,” she explains. “The loss of that brand did throw us backwards, but it meant I was able to consider other suppliers and we actually adopted some new ways of working.”
In-season ordering has subsequently become more important for the business. Pre-pandemic, Claire says she only held back 10 per cent budget for short orders. Today she dedicates closer to 30 per cent for “lower risk brands.” She explains: “Since the pandemic I haven’t panicked as much about not having stock in the order book. I’m comfortable with having extra budget to spend in-season because I’m more confident we can fill the gaps.”
Lifestyle brand Chalk UK has become a key seller, with Gemini placing orders every three to four days at its peak during the lockdowns. “We had such a brilliant reaction to the brand and worked with its team to create exclusives, which our customers loved,” Claire says. “We probably went from selling £1,000 worth of stock each week to £20,000 – it was quite incredible.”
The owner is also working closely alongside UK-based brand Amazing Woman, taking part in product selection, sampling and factory visits. “We sell the brand on our site but it’s delivered directly from their own warehouse, so it’s almost like a marketplace arrangement,” she says. “This is working really well for both of us and sales from the brand now make up around 15 per cent of our overall revenue.”
Future focus
While SS22 proved to be a successful season for the retailer, Claire does have concerns about AW22. “Last year goods came in late because of shipment delays, so we had quite a poor September followed by an amazing October and November,” she says. “But compared to pre-covid figures, it’s only where we should have been. We don’t expect delays this time so September 2022 should be stronger, but it’s a short selling season so we’ll need to peak within the first three months. By December we’ll probably need to start doing mark downs without going into sale, which we’ll hold out on for as long as we can.”
Claire’s main focus continues to be on covid recovery – only now she has to do so in the midst of a cost-of-living crisis. “I think it would be wrong to say we aren’t worried about rising energy prices, but we will try our best to get through this winter,” she says. “We’ll be encouraging customers to buy more layers and heavier pieces to keep warm. We’ll also be supporting our staff and paying the living wage.”
Moving forward, Claire will continue developing the online business, focusing on profitability and rebuilding its brands. “I will be focusing on my core business, working with brands and creating really good relationships,” she says. “I want to make sure I’m staying true to our original values and not diluting the brand as we get through what could be a tough few months ahead.”
Popping in
HOW TO BOOST YOUR BOUTIQUE’S FOOTFALL AHEAD OF 2023
As summer draws to an end, retailers are preparing for what could be a long and challenging season ahead. Today it pays to be proactive rather than reactive. Growing your audience is easier said than done, but with some fresh thinking there’s a way you can start today.
Reminding your audience what they liked and what’s new is a great way to drive sales. Top to Toe can assist with email marketing and SMS notifications, so keeping customers in the loop can be stress-free. Take notes from how other fashion retailers are marketing themselves for more inspiration.
Remember that customers can be put off instantly by the smallest hurdles at the online checkout process, so make purchasing as easy as possible. Allow fields to auto-fill, offer various payment methods and don’t surprise customers with unexpected shipping costs.
For those that don’t buy first time or just buy once, there’s plenty you can do to encourage returning customers. With help from the right fashion specialist EPOS system like Top to Toe, loyalty schemes can be started within minutes so you can keep your customers coming back. Meanwhile, creating your own 'refer a friend offer' will help grow your footfall further.
For more tips on staying ahead of the game, visit the blog section of Top to Toe’s website or call the team directly for a chat.
CONTACT:Tel 020 3376 5888 toptotoe.com
ANDREW GOODACRE, CEO AT BIRA, ON THE IMPACT OF THE COST OF LIVING CRISIS
“T his time last year we were all running our businesses with a degree of freedom having left covid restrictions behind us. While retail was still a challenge (when isn’t it?), we could all look ahead with more optimism, believing that the worst was behind us.
“Twelve months on and retailers are now facing their biggest challenge – and it’s even more daunting than the covid period. The current economic crisis is a toxic mix of high inflation, rising costs, higher wages, diminished consumer confidence and ultimately reduced spending on the high street. We are already starting to see the impact with reduced footfall and lower retail sales in general.
“I am pleased to say that the clothing sector (especially wedding attire and holiday outfits) has done better than most. However, in general, we are seeing consumers start to be more selective with how and where they spend their money.
“The difference for retailers between this economic crisis and covid is the lack of demand (you may have been forced to close your shop, but there was demand when you reopened) and government support. During the pandemic the government was quick to respond, which was something we all appreciated. At the time of going to press there’s been no concrete support for helping retailers through this crisis.
“The lack of support from government is disappointing and frustrating. It is not as though they did know it was coming because for the past 18 months we have been warning ministers and government departments about supply chain inflation being much higher than consumer inflation. Since last October we have been warning about the impact of rising energy costs as members were telling us then that their energy bills were increasing by 300 per cent. I am afraid that both the government and the Bank of England have been too slow to respond and they now run the risk of doing too little too late.
“Last October, prior to the budget, we asked the chancellor not to increase business rates due to the rising energy cost faced by independents. We were ignored at the time. Now we are pushing for the same type of action taken during the pandemic, which would reverse the increase in rates announced last April.
“I would like to see a cap on energy prices for businesses, 100 per cent relief on business rates for the current tax year and fiscal stimulation to create demand by reducing VAT. In the longer term, I’d like to see a complete overhaul of the tax system (including business rates) so that tax is truly proportionate to the affordability of the business.
“When I write about high streets and indie retailers, I try to be positive as there is much to be proud of. There are still opportunities in local shopping, social media engagement and sustainability. Independent retailers are known for their resilience, creativity and determination. I fear that they will need all these characteristics and more to survive this latest challenge.”
ANTHONY TRAN ON UNSPLASH
Taking stock
TAKE THE HARD WORK OUT OF RETAILING WITH CITRUS-LIME’S CLOUD POS
Keeping on top of your stock levels can take up a huge amount of time, but it’s crucial to keep your business running smoothly. This can be difficult if you’ve got a collection of software that isn’t designed to work together.
Citrus-Lime’s Cloud POS is a comprehensive Point of Sale system that has an easy-to-use till with powerful stock control that enables you to manage your inventory. With it, you can oversee your lines in-store and online, so you never lose sight of when stock is running low.
It’s normal for people to shop around the clock, so it’s important
for your website to be always up to date. Cloud POS Ecommerce is linked directly with your current stock positions, so you’ll never oversell. It also has a Click & Collect facility that provides your customers with the option of picking up items at a time that’s convenient for them. Built-in Cloud Reports offers insight into which lines are selling well so you can make informed decisions about where you’re achieving your margins, which stock to discount and when. As a complete EPOS, Stock Control and Ecommerce System, Citrus-Lime’s Cloud POS takes the hard work out of retailing, so you can get on with running your boutique. CONTACT:Tel: 01229 588 628 citruslime.com
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Accessories Business
Euroleathers Euroleathers are a supplier of premium shoe and leather care products and accessories. HQ: Ibex House, Ferrofields, Brixworth, Northampton NN6 9UA T: 01604 881 097 E: sales@euroleathers.com W: www.euroleathers.com
Scream Pretty Company name - Lily Charmed Ltd Brand names - Scream Pretty Contact name - Lucy Lee T: 01753 424160 E: trade@screampretty.com W: tradescreampretty.com / screampretty.com
Tempest Designs Fashion Jewellery, Handbags & Accessories Contact: Sarah Tempest T: 01656 842102 E: enquiries@tempestdesigns.co.uk W: www.tempestdesigns.co.uk Futura Retail Solutions Ltd The Old Forge, The Street, Tidmarsh, Reading, Berkshire, RG8 8ER T: 01189 841925 E: sales@futurauk.com W: www.futura4retail.co.uk
Top To Toe Senator house, 2 Graham Road, London, NW4 3HJ Software Systems T: 020 3376 5888 E: info@toptotoe.com
Events and Exhibitions
Boutique Star Awards Organiser : Boutique Professional Media Ltd T: Tel 01795 515288 E: Julie@bpmedialtd.co.uk Event Date : 8th November 2022
Harrogate Fashion Week Harrogate Convention Centre W: harrogatefashionweek.com T: +44 (0)1423 623 701 / 07551329675 E: sarah@harrogatefashionweek.com Show Dates : 5 – 6 February 2023
Home and Gift Harrogate Convention Centre Organiser: Clarion Events W: homeandgift.co.uk
Moda/ Autumn and Spring Fair Organiser: Hyve Group Website: www.moda-uk.co.uk
Indx womenswear and footwear Cranmore Park Exhibition Centre Organiser: indx shows W: www.indxshows.co.uk Pure London Organiser: Hyve Group Website: www.purelondon.com T: +44 (0)203 855 9550 E: visitor@purelondon.com Show Dates: 12 – 14 Feb 2023
Scoop Organiser: Hyve Ltd Website: scoop-international.com Show dates: 29-31 January 2023, Saatchi Gallery, Chelsea
Top Drawer Olympia – London Organiser: Clarion Events W: topdrawer.co.uk Show Dates: A/W 11 -13 September 2022 S/S 15 – 17 January 2023
Footwear
Caprice Shoes T: 07734 247 669 E: Capriceshoes@gmail.com W: www.capriceshoes.co.uk Facebook: /capriceshoes
Lofina Agent: Joanna Edwards Agency T: 07989014141/ 07512550346 W: www.shoebox.dk
Womenswear
Apt Collections: Brands: Alembika, Alquema, Elsewhere, Igor, Ozai n Ku, Philomena Christ Contact: Nigel Hughes T: 020 7580 3202 W: www.aptcollections.co.uk
Carol C Collections Brands : Foil, Orientique ,Tirelli, Oopera , Moke , Tara Vao Contact : Carol ,Andrew and Lisa T: 0800 6129009 E: info@carolccollections W: www.carolccollections.com
City Goddess/Goddiva/ Goddiva plus T: 0044 208 597 2744 E: sales@citygoddess.co.uk W: www.citygoddess.co.uk
Double H Agency Brands: Eden Park , St James . Contact: Marc Querol Linkedin - Facebook - Twitter - Instagram W: www.doublehagency.com T: 02034326387
Extravagance Brands: Sarah Pacini, Thanny, Caraclan, Marco Moreo shoes Contact: Nazma Chaudhry T: 07881 622 888 E: nazmachaudhry@gmail.com W: www.sarahpacini.com W: www.ny77design.com From My Mothers Garden Contact name Penny Callaghan T: 07825 148040 / 01308 426517 E: info@frommymothersgarden.co.uk W: www.frommymothersgarden.co.uk
Joseph Ribkoff Contact: Mark Rowe London showroom: by appointment only 1st floor, 40-41 great castle street, london w1w 8lu Jrdl uk ltd Addlepool business centre, clyst st george, exeter, devon ex3 0nr T: 01392- 876390
Leap N Link Ltd Brands: Pause Café , Fuego Woma – Oliver Philips – Bleu d’Azur Contact : Pierre & Bhavna T: 0161 713 1803 E: info@leapnlink.co.uk W:www.leapnlink.co.uk
Lily & Me Amari Designs Ltd, Unit 15, Gabwell Business Park, Quadrant Distribution Centre, Hardwicke, Gloucester, GL2 2JH T: 01566 779477 / 01566 772121 E: enquiries@lilyandmeclothing. com info@lilyandmeclothing.com W: www.lilyandmeclothing.com
MDA INTERNATIONAL Brands: Blueberry, Mama B, Mes Soeurs Et Moi, Kedziorek, Thing, Papucei, Baci & Amici. E: office@mdainternational.co.uk T: General: 020 7971 1084 Hannah: 07813925975 W: www.mdainternational.co.uk Instagram: mdainternational Nomads 9 Western Road, Launceston, Cornwall, PL15 7AR Contact: Shallon and Jo T:01566 777 338 E:info@nomadsclothing.co.uk W: www.nomadsclothing.com
Partners In Fashion (2019) LTD Brands: Erfo – Franks Walder – Just White – Kris Fashion – Lecomte -Manisa -Maria Villalobos – Marina V – Relaxed by Toni – Toni 35 Percy Street London W1T 2DQ Contact: Cathy Vandeputte T: 020 7636 4207 E: cathy.vandeputte@ partnersinfashion.co.uk W: www.partnersinfashion.com
Pomodoro Contact : Noreen and Hemant E: info@pomodoroclothing.com W: pomodoroclothing.com T: 0208 961 4000
Tate Fashions Brands: Lizabella, I.nco, Ella Boo, Bella Premium & Gracie B E: tatefashions@hotmail.com T: 07712398549 01132459064
Tempest Designs Brand names: Sarah Tempest Fashion Jewellery, Handbags & Accessories Contact: Michael Webster T: 01656 842102 E: enquiries @tempestdesigns.co.uk W: www.tempestdesigns.co.uk
Tor Fashion Brands: Cream, Frank Lyman, Orientique, Tirelli, Condici, Ispirato, MOKE T: 07855 481651 E: info@torfashion.co.uk W: www.torfashion.co.uk Instagram: torfashionltd
