Autumn/Winter 2010
NEWS AND EVENTS / EXTREM™ WOMEN / VIA FERRATA / BOARDING IN ALASKA / ADVENTURE RACING / GEAR TESTING
ROCK STAR Leo Houlding’s most ambitious big wall climb yet
EXTREME ACTION Anniken Binz and Carlos Suárez on BASE jumping
MOUNTAIN LEADER
Chris Bonington 50 years after his first Himalaya expedition
SURVIVING THE ARCTIC Rafal Król His diary of a Greenland crossing
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MOUNTAIN ADVENTURE HOLIDAY www.berghaus.com
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Left: Team Orion in action during an adventure race
AUTUMN/WINTER 2010
ur passion and understanding for the outdoors, and our commitment to innovation and product development, has made Berghaus the choice of extreme outdoor athletes for over 40 years. Over that time, we have supplied gear to expeditions to ensure that our clothes and equipment really do perform in the toughest environments on Earth. Our EXTREM™ range is among the best outdoor gear in the world and is supporting today’s top climbers, mountaineers and adventurers to push the boundaries of their pursuits. Read on to find out more about their latest endeavours. If their stories inspire you to take on new challenges, you can be sure that Berghaus products will help you every step of the way.
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BAFFIN ISLAND The Asgard Project p.6
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ON TOP OF THEIR GAME Meet the athletes who are pushing the limits for Berghaus.
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ARCTIC ASCENT Climbing star Leo Houlding ascends one of the toughest big walls in the world.
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BERGHAUS WORLD All the latest news, including expeditions, festivals and talks.
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SUMMIT MEEETING An exclusive interview with legendary British mountaineer Sir Chris Bonington.
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MAKING THE GRADIENT Snowboarding pro Ben Herbert takes on the peaks of wild Alaska.
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FOR THE IRON-WILLED Welcome to the exciting, white-knuckle world of via ferrata.
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HIGH FLYERS Adrenalin junkies Anniken Binz and Carlos Suarez on why they love BASE jumping.
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ULTIMATE CHALLENGE Team Orion take on the extreme demands of adventure racing.
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PULLING THROUGH Polish explorer Rafal Król crosses the inhospitable landscape of Greenland.
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FIT FOR PURPOSE Why the Berghaus range of outdoor gear keeps on getting better for women.
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THE GEAR FACTOR A preview of the Berghaus Autumn/Winter 2010 EXTREM™ collection.
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PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES How Berghaus tests its products, plus WIN a mountain adventure.
GREENLAND Rafal Król p.22
NORWAY BASE jumping p.18
CHAMONIX Product testing p.26
ALASKA Ben Herbert p.15 HIMALAYA Chris Bonington p.12
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COVER STORY: ROCK STAR Read about Leo Houlding’s recent thrilling Arctic climb.
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Berghaus UK Head Office, Sunderland, tel: +44 (0)191 516 5600 Berghaus Magazine is published by Illustrated London News Ltd. Illustrated London News Ltd, 10 Fashion Street, London E1 6PX, UK; www.iln.co.uk Editor: Claire Hutchings, tel: +44 (0)20 7426 1020, claire.hutchings@iln.co.uk. Client services director: Jessica Daw, tel: +44 (0)20 7426 1035, jessica.daw@iln.co.uk
and © Berghaus Limited 2010.
MOUNTAIN MAN Sir Chris Bonington marks the 50th anniversary of his first Himalaya visit.
BASE JUMPING Norwegian model Anniken Binz takes the leap from stomach-churning heights.
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are registered trademarks of Berghaus Limited.
22 GREENLAND TREK Diary extracts from explorer Rafal Król’s challenging wilderness expedition.
OUR ATHLETES
ON TOP OF THEIR GAME
From mountaineering to BASE jumping, skiing to mountain biking, bouldering to adventure racing, you’ll find our athletes at their peak with Berghaus. We caught up with them to learn more about their feats, hopes and future plans.
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3 1. SIR CHRIS BONINGTON Mountaineer Mountaineering legend Sir Chris has led 19 expeditions to the Himalaya and summited Everest aged 50. Proudest moment: In 1975, as expedition leader, hearing the radio call at Everest Advance Base that Doug Scott and Dougal Haston had summited. Most challenging expedition: In terms of leadership and logistics, the South-West Face of Everest, but the Ogre in Pakistan was the most difficult to climb. 2. LEO HOULDING Climber & BASE jumper The 30-year-old pioneered para-alpinism—climbing up a route, then BASE jumping from the top. His feats include the first free ascent of the 1,400-metre Casarotto Pillar on Fitzroy in Patagonia. Most rewarding expedition: The Asgard Project (see page 6). Extreme adventures are hard enough without trying to shoot a blockbuster film! 4/
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New goals: To make the 2012 Paralympics in handcycling and sit-ski to the South Pole.
3. MICK FOWLER Mountaineer Voted the Mountaineer’s Mountaineer by UK newspaper The Observer, the 54-year-old has also won the Piolet d’Or and Golden Piton awards for his 2002 ascent of Siguniang in China. Inspiration: Italian Riccardo Cassin, who made a first ascent of the Walker Spur on the North Face of Grandes Jorasses having never set eyes on it before. Scariest moment: A 100mph bumslide down Changabang’s South Face.
4. KAREN DARKE Hand biker & sit skier Paralysed from the chest down by an accident at the age of 21, Karen has found new ways of pushing the limits, including crossing the Tien Shan and Karakoram mountains on a handbike, and climbing El Capitan in Yosemite. Highlights: They include sitting on the summit of the Khunjerab Pass in Pakistan, having cycled six weeks uphill to get there, and sit-skiing to the edge of the Greenland ice cap.
5. ROB JARMAN Mountain biker & stuntman The 28-year-old mountain biker and TV stuntman rode for Team GB at the European and World Championships, then went on to coach Team GB. Antics: Include riding a bike down the Lillehammer bobsleigh circuit at speeds of 90kph. Has recently finished climbing Mont Blanc, the Eiger and Matterhorn. Next challenge: Entering a one-day stage on the Tour de France that’s open to the public. www.berghaus.com
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6. LEAH CRANE Boulderer Leah, aged 21, is the top British boulderer and current national champion. Best thing about bouldering: No faffing with climbing gear and you can push yourself to the max with no real danger involved. Worst thing about bouldering: When it gets too high because you are not attached to a rope. 7. ANNIKEN BINZ BASE jumper & sky diver The 33-year-old Norwegian began sky diving aged 18 while modelling in Milan. After more than 200 sky dives, she took up BASE jumping. Perfect day: Waking up in the mountains, taking in the www.berghaus.com
beauty of the landscape, then cooking oatmeal on my stove. Latest challenge: Being a mum to my newborn son. 8. CARLOS SUAREZ BASE jumper, climber & mountaineer The Spaniard has taken on big walls in the world’s most dramatic massifs. Notable climbs include Naranjo de Bulnes, Cho Oyu, and more than 20 routes in the Alps. Most intense moment: Climbing three 8a routes solo without ropes. Biggest fear: Avalanches. 9. RAFAL KRÓL Explorer & survival expert The Polish adventurer’s exploits have included traversing the Greenland
ice cap (see page 22) and travelling a 400km route to northern Spitsbergen alone. Motivation: Being a pioneer. Expedition preparation: His fitness regime consists of long-distance trekking with a heavy backpack, skiing in powder snow and running. Ambitions: To traverse the Arctic Ocean, climb K2 in winter, and cross Antarctica without support. 10. KIM MI GON Mountaineer The 37-year-old Korean has an impressive list of 8,000 metre-plus ascents to his name, including the Alps3North Face of Manaslu, Lhotse South, Cho Oyu and Makalu.
Greatest feat: Climbing the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat, the highest wall in the world. Ambitions: To summit K2. 11. TEAM ORION Adventure racing The team includes Carl Bevins, Brent Edwards, Marcel Hagener, Stuart Lynch and Fleur Pawsey. Favourite races: Include the Coast to Coast in New Zealand and the Wulong Mountain Quest in China. Worst experience: Getting horribly lost trying to follow a hand-drawn map in a sugar plantation. BERGHAUSONLINE For detailed profiles and updated information on any of our team, please go to www.berghaus.com/ en/athletes/allathletes.html.
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COVER STORY
Below (left to right): Jason Pickles, Leo Houlding, Chris Rabone and Sean “Stanley” Leary on the summit Right: Leo freeing pitch 5, a tough E5
ARCTIC ASCENT
The stunning Canadian wilderness was the dramatic setting for Berghaus athlete and climbing star Leo Houlding’s biggest challenge to date—to freeclimb one of the toughest walls in the world and then to BASE jump off it.
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hey are minutes away from dropping onto a glacier deep in the Arctic Canadian wilderness and hundreds of miles from civilisation. As the two soaring 1,000 metre-plus towers of Mount Asgard come into view, the adrenalin is pumping fast. The DC3 Dakota plane circles the mountain and they push out their supplies. Then it is their turn to jump. They drop from 1,600 metres into one of the most incredible skydives of their lives to land on one of the remotest spots on Earth. This is the dramatic arrival of world-renowned climber and Berghaus athlete Leo Houlding and his team on Baffin Island in early August 2009, at the start of his attempt to be the first to free-climb Mount Asgard. Not only did he plan to scale one of the world’s toughest big walls without artificial aid, he hoped to BASE jump the descent. The British climber pulled together a seven-strong team for the expedition, made up of some of the world’s top extreme climbers, including fellow Berghaus athlete Carlos Suárez from Spain and American Sean “Stanley” Leary. Berghaus athlete 6 / BERGHAUS MAGAZINE
KIT LIST BERGHAUS MEN’S INCINERATOR JACKET MATERIAL: Down/ PrimaLoft® for the most extreme mountain conditions. DETAILS: Offers the ultimate protection against wind, cold and damp. Features a fixed helmet compatible hood. WHAT LEO SAYS: “I don’t think we would have got to the top without these jackets.”
The 1,100-metre ascent of the North-West Face of Mount Asgard is the equivalent of climbing the Eiffel Tower three times
COVER STORY/
and award-winning film-maker Alastair Lee had also joined the team to capture all the action of this epic ascent. The elite climbers had to tackle big challenges if they were to succeed. Having battled injury and logistical problems to get the project underway, they were now climbing dangerously late in the season. The climbers faced a daunting 1,100-metre climb up the North-West Face of Mount Asgard, which is in the shade for 23 hours a day. The 12-day ascent was brutal. “We managed two or three pitches a day but each 40-metre pitch took us four to five hours. Some days we struggled to do one. The biggest challenge was the weather. There were constant subzero temperatures and severe ice storms. The freezing rock turned our bare hands numb, so there was no option but to wear gloves and start pulling on the gear for aid.” Each night, Leo and the climbers made camp in the port-a-ledges hanging from the vertical face with nothing but air below them. For four days, bad weather pinned them to the wall as their flimsy accommodation was buffeted by 70mph winds. The boiling water they put in their water bottles froze within an hour or so. “On the rock face, the Berghaus Incinerator Duvet jacket proved crucial in protecting us from the elements,” Leo explains. As team leader, Leo had to ensure that the climbers had the best kit possible. Having briefed Berghaus’ design and innovation department, Leo was supplied with products from the most technologically advanced range, EXTREM™. From base and mid-layers to soft shells and insulated jackets, Leo knew they would withstand the abuse that would be hurled at them and offer the required protection. “Without the right 8 / BERGHAUS MAGAZINE
Top: the Asgard team at base camp. After months of preparation and training, the team prepare to start their ascent of one of the most challenging big walls in the world Right: Leo is bivied 350 metres up the NorthWest Face of Asgard, exposed to sub-zero temperatures and battering winds Far right: Leo’s hands were wrecked on the ascent following a 15-metre fall. Just unzipping his sleeping bag was absolute agony
LEO’S TOPFOUR LUXURIES
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LAVAZZA QUALITA ROSSA ESPRESSO A kick-ass strong caffeine hit is a crucial boost at 3am on a freezing morning. Friction in the team is at its most explosive pre-coffee, so a plentiful supply of good coffee can mean the difference between success and failure.
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DAIRY MILK CHOCOLATE AND HARIBO SWEETS When confined to a tent for days on end by bad weather, chocolate and sweets are a major morale boost. We took 20kg of confectionery to Asgard, and we managed to eat it all.
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“The cold made it difficult to even get out of our bivis in the morning, our hands were wrecked and I was concerned about the safety of my team” LEO HOULDING
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GLENLIVET SCOTCH WHISKY To celebrate successes. We had an emotional dram when we all touched down on the glacier after the climb. Amazing how fast a bottle of scotch vanishes with seven guys.
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NOKIA 5800 The speaker is exceptionally good and provides decent bass for a base camp or port-a-ledge party. The massive screen is surprisingly good for watching movies to pass the time when tent-bound due to bad weather.
gear, frostbite and hypothermia would definitely have had us all,” Leo adds. With the weather deteriorating, Leo seriously doubted whether they would make it to the summit. “It was a ‘sufferfest’,” he explains. “The cold made it difficult to even get out of our bivis in the morning, our hands were wrecked, and I was getting concerned about the safety of my team, particularly as the two-man film crew were less experienced.” Then, after a savage ice storm that left a thick coating of haw frost on all the equipment and brought the first discussions of retreat, the Northern Lights made an appearance and there was enough fine weather to finish the route. “I had a scare near the top when a skyhook peeled away and I took a 15-metre fall. But I managed to scrape together the energy to haul myself up and finally top out,” he adds. On the summit, Leo and Stanley pulled on their wingsuits and parachutes and leapt from the flat-topped tower heading for the bottom at terminal velocity. “Normally after one of these jumps, there is total exhilaration. This time I felt nothing. I was worried about the others we’d left on top who still had to get down,” he says. So there was an absolute sense of relief when, 36 hours later and after 20 rappels, the exhausted team finally joined them. “We reached the top of Asgard, but just by the skin of our teeth. This was 10-times harder than reaching the top of Everest and one level down from feeling, ‘Oh my god, we’re going to die’.” BERGHAUSONLINE Read more about Leo Houlding and his achievements in the Athletes section at www.berghaus.com/en/athletes/allathletes.html.The Asgard Project, Alastair Lee’s ground-breaking film of the ascent that has earned acclaim at film festivals throughout Europe, is now available to buy from www.posingproductions.com.
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NEWS
BERGHAUS WORLD
All the most up-to-date news from expeditions to product development, events to online activity. Berghaus and WL Gore continue to develop new technologies with GORE-TEX® fabrics
GOING FROM STRENGTH TO STRENGTH At Berghaus, one of our most successful partnerships is with WL Gore, manufacturers of GORE-TEX® fabrics. Our relationship started in 1977, when we were the first brand in Europe to launch GORE-TEX® products. Since then, we have worked closely together to develop new technologies and use
our expertise of materials and features to introduce exciting new products each season. Prototype products are tested by both companies, Berghaus athletes and other testers. The latest Berghaus collection includes the Attrition jacket from the EXTREM™ range (right), featuring high performance
3-layer GORE-TEX® Pro Shell, with a face fabric, called Modica, exclusive to Berghaus. For more details of GORE-TEX® fabrics, see pages 24 and 25 or visit www.berghaus.com. om. With the high-tech functionality of
How to make a splash on Mount Everest British endurance swimmer and environmental campaigner Lewis Gordon Pugh, left, became the first person to do a long-distance swim under the summit of Mount Everest in May. The one-kilometre route, in 2°C waters across the 5,300-metre Pumori Lake, took 22 minutes and 51 seconds. Lewis undertook the swim to draw attention to the
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melting of the glaciers in the Himalaya. “It’s one of the hardest swims I’ve ever done. Because of the altitude I had to swim very slowly,” he says.
Berghaus provided Lewis’ clothing to ensure he was dry and warm while on the mountain. See Lewis’ news articles at www.berghaus. com/community.
BERGHAUSONLINE JOIN US ON FACEBOOK AND TWITTER Follow us on Facebook. Join our discussion topics, find out the latest happenings at Berghaus, view our photos and post your own images. Visit www.facebook.com/berghaus or keep up to date on Twitter at www.twitter.com/therealberghaus.
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Mick Fowler will be testing Berghaus products during his forthcoming China expedition
ART IN THE ARCTIC
Dutch sculptor Ap Verheggen is travelling around the North Pole creating four sculptures that will be placed on icebergs and viewed via a live camera until the icebergs melt and the art disappears into the sea. Berghaus is supporting this unique cool(E)motion™ eco-project, which aims to highlight climate change, by providing the team with clothing and equipment and publicising the messages behind Ap’s work. Follow the project’s progress at www.coolemotion.org.
GREAT OUTDOORS
FOWLER ALL SET FOR CHINA Berghaus-sponsored mountaineer Mick Fowler’s latest quest for adventure will take him and his team of climbing colleagues to the north side of the Chinese Tien Shan range in Xinjiang Province. He will be testing the latest outdoor performance products from the Berghaus EXTREM™ collection. The spectacular 6,000-7,000-metre mountains of the Tien Shan range have been off-limits for many years but Mick has secured permits from the Chinese authorities for a four-week visit. His will be only the third mountaineering expedition to climb in the area. Keep up to date with the expedition at www.berghaus.com.
Reel experiences at Mountain Summit When Mick Fowler returns from his expedition to China (see above), he will be joining a host of renowned climbers and mountaineers in Italy to talk at the IMS-International Mountain Summit (30 October -7 November 2010). Mick’s talk takes place on Friday, 5 November at 4.30pm. There will also be a chance to attend the screening of The Asgard Project, the Berghaus-sponsored, multi-award-winning movie produced by Alastair Lee, which will be shown on the opening evening. The International Mountain Summit, which is sponsored by Berghaus, provides a platform to discuss, celebrate and cast a new light on the mountains in all their www.berghaus.com
different facets. The event takes place in Brixen/Bressanone at the foot of the Unesco World Natural Heritage Site in the Italian Dolomites. For more information, please visit www.ims.bz.
Berghaus has been a supporter of the EOG Association for Conservation since becoming a founding member in 2003. The organisation takes a lead in areas relating to the environment and sustainability for Europe’s outdoor industry. We’re currently backing an EOG initiative that’s working with the World Pheasant Association on a major education project in the Pipar forests of Nepal’s Annapurna Conservation Area. To find out more, visit www.eogconservation.org/ news/636.
TRUST WORTHY Berghaus continues to support charities that work in the outdoors, including The Outward Bound Trust (www.the outwardboundtrust.org.uk) and The John Muir Trust (www.jmt.org). We have long been a patron company member of The Outward Bound Trust, which uses outdoor activities to enhance the learning experiences of young people. We provide its instructors with Berghaus kit and participate in many of its fundraising activities. We have also been developing a close relationship with the John Muir Trust. A team of Berghaus staff recently volunteered to spend two days in Glen Nevis helping the Trust in its vital work conserving the Highlands of Scotland.
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SIR CHRIS BONINGTON
SUMMIT MEETING Berghaus athlete and legendary mountaineer Sir Chris Bonington is commemorating two special anniversaries this year while still looking to the future.
ack home in the UK for a few days before he heads off to Norway to celebrate the 25th anniversary of his ascent of Everest as part of a Norwegian expedition, Sir Chris Bonington has a rare moment to catch his breath after returning from the Himalaya. “I joined my son Joe in Nepal for a 50th-anniversary commemorative trek through the north Annapurna, and it was a really fantastic, nostalgic trip,” he says. In 1960, as a 25-year-old instructor at the Army Outward Bound School in Wales, Sir Chris was invited to join a British combined services expedition to the unclimbed Annapurna II (7,937 metres). “It was my first trip to Asia and my first attempt at high-altitude climbing so it was immensely exciting,” he says. As he chats, the phone rings. “That was my other son reminding me I’m expected at my granddaughter’s primary school tomorrow to give a talk,” he says. “I completely forgot.” Little surprise with so much else going on—climbing, lecturing and working hard for organisations such as the British Orienteering Federation, LEPRA Health in Action (the British leprosy charity) and The Outward Bound Trust. For his services to the trust, he was appointed Commander of the Royal Victorian Order in the 2010 Queen’s Birthday Honours List. “Today, Nepal is a thriving trekking and climbing centre,” Sir Chris says, returning to his recent visit to the country. “In 1960,
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1960 ANNAPURNA II
CLIMBING RECORD
1961 CENTRAL PILLAR OF FRÊNEY
1962 NORTH FACE OF THE EIGER
Annapurna II by the West Ridge, Nepal, with Dick Grant and Ang Nyima, on a joint British-IndianNepalese forces expedition led by Colonel Jimmy Roberts.
First ascent of the Central Pillar of Frêney on the South-Side of Mont Blanc—one of the most difficult in the Alps—with Don Whillans, Ian Clough and Jan Dlugosz.
Accomplished the long-sought first British ascent of the fearsome North Face of the Eiger, which rises above the Swiss resort of Grindelwald, with Ian Clough.
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Far left: Sir Chris with his good friend Pertemba Sherpa on Everest in 1985
Left: Sir Chris climbing in Scotland; he says he hopes to continue doing the sport he loves well into his eighties
there was just one hotel in Kathmandu with few tourists and no trekkers. The only road was the one from the capital to the Indian frontier. It felt exotic, strange and very different.” The expedition set off from the British Embassy compound in Kathmandu and they didn’t see a single foreigner on their approach to the northern flank of Annapurna II. “I think in all probability we were the first foreigners to do the Annapurna Circuit,” Sir Chris says. As the youngest member of the 1960 team, he was lucky enough to summit the mountain with Dick Grant, a Royal Marines Captain. In 1962 Sir Chris made a first ascent of Nuptse (7,850 metres), the third peak of Everest by its South Face and considered at the time to be one of the hardest climbs in the Himalaya. But it wasn’t until 1970 that he returned to the Himalaya, which had been closed from 1965 to 1969 due to conflict. “A friend sent me a photo of the South Face of Annapurna I, which is about 30 kilometres from Annapurna II, and it looked magnificent—it was big, steep and hard and it was the sort of challenge I was looking for,” he says. “It was like the North Face of the Eiger but twice as big and going up to 8,000 metres. I thought, ‘That’s the thing to go for’.” It was Sir Chris’ first time leading an expedition, a prospect that he admits “absolutely petrified” him. At 8,091 metres, Annapurna I belongs to the exclusive club of only 14 peaks in the world rising over 8,000 metres. In 1970, no face of that size or level of difficulty had been climbed at extreme altitude. So the success of getting Dougal Haston and Don Whillans to Annapurna I’s summit—tragically with the loss of team member Ian Clough, who died on the descent—was groundbreaking. Sir Chris is more modest about the achievement. “The floodgates of Himalayan climbing opened in 1970 after five years of closure so many great climbers were taking the skills they had learnt in the Alps to the highest, most challenging routes in the Himalaya. These climbs showed you could take high-standard climbing to extreme altitudes. Climbers have been building on these achievements ever since.” Now 76 years old, Sir Chris’ passion for the mountains has not diminished, and he still has the energy that few could match at any age. “Of course, one has to be realistic about
“A friend sent me a photo of the South Face of Annapurna I and it looked magnificent—just the sort of challenge I was looking for” SIR CHRIS BONINGTON
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1970 SOUTH FACE OF ANNAPURNA I
1972 SOUTH-WEST FACE OF EVEREST
1975 SOUTH-WEST FACE OF EVEREST
1977 THE OGRE
Led the Annapurna I expedition, summited by Dougal Haston (left) and Don Whillans on 27 May 1970, proving skills from the Alps could be transferred to extreme altitudes.
Unsuccessful attempt on the uth-We est unclimbed South-West st; the Face of Everest; feated by team were defeated bad weather.
le the first Sir Chris (left) led asc successful ascent of the South-West Face, with Scot and Dougal Doug Scott su Haston summiting.
First ascent of the Ogre in the Karakoram, via the South Face. A six-day descent with Doug Scott crawling on two broken legs and Bonington suffering a broken rib.
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SNOWBOARDING
MAKING THE GRADIENT
For extreme boarder Ben Herbert it’s always winter as he seeks his next snowboarding challenge around the world. And there’s nowhere better than Alaska. hile most of us travel to find the sun, 36-year-old Australian professional snowboarder Ben Herbert roams the world seeking out the winter all year round. “I travel between the northern and southern hemispheres chasing the snow and living an endless winter,” he explains. “I spend the European winters in Austria, Switzerland and Italy, and then head to New Zealand during your summer.” In between, from February to April, Ben is likely to be in Alaska, the largest US state. “For people who are serious about snowboarding, skiing and pushing the boundaries of their sport, Alaska is the last frontier,” he explains. His base in Alaska is the fishing community and former naval port of Haines (population 4,000) in the Inside Passage. Located on the shores of Lynn Canal, the longest and deepest fjord in North America, it is surrounded by a natural wonderland. Behind it rise the Takshanuk Mountains. Across the Chilkat River is the Glacier Bay National Park. “The people of Haines are so genuine and very welcoming, inviting you into their homes for a beer or food or to go out on their skidoos,” says Ben. Between February and April, Haines attracts 50 or so of the world’s best skiers and snowboarders. The big draw is the snow-covered mountains with death-defying gradients on its doorstep. “The snow here is much wetter so it sticks on steeper terrain. And while the mountains in Europe may be bigger, they can’t beat Alaska for gradient,” says Ben. “The untracked terrain also offers endless possibilities for pushing the boundaries.” On his trips to Alaska, Ben is always joined by fellow top snowboarders. Last year, it was New Zealander Brodie Cook, Swede David Schicht and Australian Daniel Kundernatsch. “You only want to put yourself on the mountain with people you can really trust,” Ben says. “There are real dangers— avalanches, crevasses, sheer drops—and so you want to make sure that the people you ride with have done the avalanche training courses, understand the danger signs and have taken all the necessary precautions.” The highlight of last year’s trip was riding the formidable face of Tomahawk. “When we were dropped off at the top of the mountain by helicopter, I looked down and thought this is impossible. Trying to push yourself to new limits means going
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Ben Herbert, below, and enjoying the steep terrain of Alaska, “the last frontier” for snowboarders
TRAVEL FILE HAINES, ALASKA GETTING THERE: Fly to Alaska’s capital Juneau and pick up a ferry to Haines. ATTRACTIONS: Kayaking, rafting, hiking, glacier trekking, fishing, golf and beaches in summer; in winter, crosscountry skiing, snow-shoeing, ice skating, snowboarding, heli-skiing, ice-fishing. Don’t miss the abundant wildlife, including humpback and orca whales, sea otters, sea lions, seals, moose and bald eagles. MORE INFORMATION: www.haines.ak.us/
steeper and that’s why this place is such a dream.” Yet Alaska is not just a playground for extreme athletes. “There are lots of opportunities for intermediate to advanced skiers or snowboarders and there’s cross-country skiing and snow-shoeing, too,” Ben says. “In spring and summer, there’s hiking, kayaking and fishing or you can chill out on the beach.” Next year in Alaska, he will be camping and scaling peaks to snowboard with friends. “We’ll also be taking a good guide and all the right equipment—you don’t want to get lost or have an accident in the wilds of Alaska in winter.” BERGHAUSONLINE Berghaus provides Ben Herbert with the essential gear he needs for his sport. To find out more about Berghaus products, visit www.berghaus.com.
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VIA FERRATA
Climbing in the Dolomites. Via ferrata are graded according to difďŹ culty, from steep hikes to serious climbing skills
BERGHAUSONLINE Find out more about via ferrata by reading our article at www.berghaus.com.
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FOR THE IRON-WILLED
Experience the mixture of fear and freedom of clinging to a rock face the “safe” way on a via ferrata. But you’ll still need good fitness, nerves of steel and a great head for heights.
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ia ferrata, which is Italian for “iron way”, is a mountain footpath equipped with fixed cable and steel ladders to cross difficult sections of steep rock face and gullies. There are hundreds of routes in the Dolomites of northern Italy and the rest of the Alps, with new ones popping up across the globe. Via ferrata are great fun,
give access to areas normally reached only by experienced climbers, and require multi-sport kit. Essential items are a harness, karabiners to clip into the safety cable, gloves for protection from the steel steps, and a helmet. Otherwise, it’s hiking boots or multi-sport trainers with good grips. Here are some top routes, for all abilities, you’ll want to try...
BEST FOR BEGINNERS… La Resgia, Switzerland This 800-metre route, with an elevation of 280 metres, starts in the village of Pontresina in the Graubünden region. With great views up the Upper Engadine Valley, it offers beginners three hours of adrenalin-fuelled fun.
MOST CHALLENGING... Mount Hoken, Japan This ferrata on Mount Hoken in the Central Alps of Japan features several crossings over 300-metre sheer drops. Great care is needed as it can suddenly ice over. Adrenalin-junkies will relish the challenge.
BEST VIEWS… Bocchette Way, Italy This crosses the main Brenta range in the Dolomites, linking up with many via ferrata. Starting at Madonna di Campiglio, it requires six days of demanding hiking and climbing and staying in mountain refuges.
La Cascade, Ferrata des Orres, France Ferrata des Orres, in the French Alps, includes La Cascade, an 800-metre route with a 484-metre elevation that will test even the most experienced of climbers over three hours.
Nelson Rocks Preserve, West Virginia, US You can enjoy mind-blowing views over the Allegheny Mountains. A 70-metre-long, 50-metre-high swinging bridge is a highlight of the climb.
CORBIS
Whistler Peak, Canada This via ferrata in the magnificent Canadian Rockies resort of Whistler combines four hours of hiking across the Whistler glacier with climbing on a series of iron ladder rungs and cables leading to the summit of Whistler Peak. Sentiero Astaldi, Italy This short, easy two-hour route on the southern edge of the Tofana mountains in the Dolomites starts and ends at the Rifugio Dibona, with colourful rock strata along the way.
Hindelanger Klettersteig, Germany A half-day route in the Bavarian Alps following a knife-edge ridge from the top of Nebelhorn cable car to Grossen Daumen. Lots of potentially hairy moments staring down sheer faces or drops.
Regina de Peramola, Spain Located in the Catalonia Pyrenees of Spain, this via ferrata, with a 330-metre ascent, has spectacular views of the Oliana Reservoir. A wire suspension bridge provides extra thrills. Expect it to take about four hours.
MOST UNUSUAL… Mount Torq, Malaysia At 3,800 metres on Mount Kinabalu, Mount Torq claims to be the world’s highest via ferrata. The ideal challenge for the most adventurous. Ivano Dibona, Italy This eight-hour route on the Zurlon ridge features the 27-metre Ponte Cristallo suspension bridge. It will strike vertigo into the hearts of even the toughest of climbers. Honister Crag, UK Britain’s only via ferrata is in the beautiful Lake District. It’s a former short-cut to Honister Crag used by Victorian slate miners. A fun half-day adventure.
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ADVENTURE RACING Team Orion members winning the 2008 Ecomotion World Championship in Brazil Far right: adventure racing skills can include trekking, cycling and running in the toughest of terrains and conditions
ULTIMATE CHALLENGE Adventure racing tests many different skills to the limit. Stuart Lynch, the captain of Berghaus-sponsored champions Team Orion, finds the challenge irresistible.
rekking across scorching deserts, biking on single mountain tracks, rappelling down vertical rock faces, kayaking overnight along fast-flowing rivers, then descending glaciers with ice axes, crampons and climbing rope. Most people would be exhausted after just one of these activities but they are all in a day’s work in the world of adventure racing. It’s one of the fastest growing sports in which mixed teams of usually four people are put through their paces, navigating a course hundreds of kilometres long in the most challenging terrain. As one of the world’s top adventure racing teams, New Zealand’s Team Orion has competed in the most prestigious events against the best athletes in the most spectacular parts of the globe, from Abu Dhabi to Scotland, Brazil to the US, China to Ecuador. “It’s like an adventure expedition but in a race format, so you get to go to places you’d never dream of seeing otherwise,” says team captain Stuart Lynch. “It’s a non-stop event, usually over four or five days, with different stages to complete in various disciplines—normally trekking, mountain biking and kayaking, often with a few other specialist challenges thrown in, such as caving, abseiling, horse riding, rock climbing and even rollerblading.” The biggest challenge for the Berghaus-sponsored team in 2010 is to reclaim the Adventure Racing World
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KIT LIST BERGHAUS MEN’S ACTIVE FIT LONG SLEEVE CREW NECK TEE E
MATERIAL: Argentium Fabric Technology. gy. DETAILS: Jersey top with mesh venting. n Perfect as base layer or outer garment in warmer weather. WHAT TEAM ORION SAY: “Its high performance wicking means we can wear it for any sport.”
Champions title that they won two years ago. With Fleur Pawsey, Marcel Hagener and Carl Bevins joining existing team members Stuart Lynch and Brent Edwards, expectations are high. “We’re getting in as much practice as a team as we can ahead of the World Championships in Spain, which we’re all very excited about,” says Stuart. Key to the New Zealanders’ success will be good teamwork, an area in which Team Orion has always excelled. “But it is a challenge,” Stuart admits. “You are spending four or five days in close proximity—teams must stick together at all times during a race—so you have to get on and put up with each others’ moods,” he explains. “You have also got to be on hand to help a struggling teammate. One of the www.berghaus.com
NEED TO KNOW WHAT IS ADVENTURE RACING? A mixed-team sport in which teams navigate a course disclosed only hours before the race begins. Core disciplines are mountain biking, kayaking and trekking. Other challenges often included are abseiling, rock climbing, canyoning and rafting. Races last from a few hours to many days. SKILLS NEEDED Enjoying varied and unpredictable challenges. To take it more seriously, you need to be a good all-rounder but particularly in running, biking and kayaking, and a confident navigator.
TAKING PART The sport’s growing popularity has led to a choice of formats and difficulties for races. Some events last only a few hours or a day, and some don’t involve any navigation. For more information, visit www.sleepmonsters.com. FEELING ADVENTUROUS? Top events include the Adventure Racing World Championship and World Series (www.arworldseries. com) held across the globe, from Costa Rica to Sweden, Ecuador to the US, and Primal Quest (www. ecoprimalquest.com) in the US, with races lasting up to 10 days.
hardest things is admitting that you’re not doing well so we have all got to keep an eye on each other and assist where we can.” Dedicated teamwork, meticulous planning and shrewd strategy, together with physical and mental stamina, are all vital in adventure racing. “You can go through some real low patches,” says Stuart. “Sometimes you get so tired that you start hallucinating. Tiredness can make or break a team so you have to manage it well.” The New Zealanders have learnt to survive on only two www.berghaus.com
hours’ sleep a day over a five-day race, resting whenever they can, often in a shed, barn or by the side of a track. “You stop as little as possible because you want to win, but if you don’t rest enough, you risk losing concentration and getting lost.” That’s never fun. “It’s extremely demoralising to find you’ve been going the wrong way for an hour or two,” says Stuart, laughing. “You need good wilderness navigation and orienteering skills— it doesn’t matter how fast you are if you’re going in the wrong direction!” Team Orion’s hardest challenge to date was the notorious Primal Quest series of races, held in Utah a few years ago. “It was one of the toughest adventure courses ever conceived,” says Stuart, with six days of biking, horse riding, running, trekking and river boarding in temperatures of over 40°C . “On the penultimate leg, we trekked through the desert where a rope course awaited us. We ascended over 100 metres vertically up the first pillar of rock, rappelled down its other side, then ascended a second rock face before hooking ourselves onto a high, 150 metre-long Tyrolean traverse to the third pillar, which we rappelled off. The sheer size and spectacle of the rope course was awe-inspiring, dramatic and unforgettable.” Surprise challenges like these are a highlight, says Stuart, particularly in long races when trekking and cycling can really test the limits of physical and mental endurance. “It’s great to look forward to some fun stuff. In one race in Abu Dhabi, we even did one stage of camel-trekking on some very stubborn animals! But the things that really keep you motivated are the neat places you get to see, the fantastic people you meet, and the huge sense of achievement at the end of BERGHAUSONLINE the race having completed Learn more about Team Orion by checking out their profile at www.berghaus.com/ something that seemed en/athletes/allathletes.html. impossible at the start.” BERGHAUS MAGAZINE /
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WILDERNESS SURVIVAL From as far away as 9km, Rafal and Norbert spot this imposing US military base, left over from the Cold War. Abandoned in the 1980s, it still contains old documents, reports and canned food
BERGHAUSONLINE Read about Rafal Król’s survival tips for extreme cold conditions at www.berghaus.com.
PULLING THROUGH
Polish explorer Rafal Król crossed Greenland while battling extreme conditions and hauling a sleigh weighing 85kg. Here is his account of that epic journey… 17 August 2009
5 September
We set off from Nagtivit Bay in Greenland. My companion is Polish biologist and Arctic explorer Norbert Pokorski. Our aim is to travel about 600 kilometres west to Kangerlussuaq, in the footsteps of Norwegian Fridtjot Nansen, the first man to make this trip in 1881. We trek for five days to the top of the Greenland ice cap. We use skis and crampons and are each pulling a sleigh weighed down by 85 kilograms of equipment.
The weather deteriorates and it snows and rains. We’re cold, wet and getting thinner and weaker. We are consuming 6,000 calories a day but burning up about 10,000.
23 August Over the next 14 days, there are whiteouts, blizzards and temperatures as low as -30°C. The days are monotonous as there is no life, no forms. During whiteouts, the horizon touches the ground, eyes become tired quickly and it’s impossible to estimate distance. I concentrate on looking at my ski ends and following a compass on my sleigh. We progress around 30 kilometres a day over 12 hours.
13 September We are only 5.5 kilometres from the edge of the ice cap— Point 660—but wonder whether we are going to make it. We have wet feet and are concerned that frostbite and hypothermia will set in. I abandon the sleigh after pulling it just one kilometre in three hours. We finally arrive, exhausted. There is no celebration—just relief to have made it.
Greenland Greenland Point 660
30 August
Day 21-28
Rafal Krol’s Route
Day 15-20 Day 8-14
We reach some small hills, accessed through a labyrinth of seracs through which we travel just five to eight kilometres each day, pulling the sleighs over crevasses and facing the risk of ice cracking under our feet. At the end of the day, we retreat into our tents to escape the strong winds. We cook dinner, plot our route and then phone home or write diaries. 22 /
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Nagtivit Bay Iceland
Rafal Król and Norbert Pokorski’s plan to trek 600 kilometres from Nagtivit Bay to Kangerlussuaq, enduring whiteouts, blizzards and deteriorating conditions www.berghaus.com
WOMEN’S CLOTHING
FIT FOR PURPOSE For Berghaus Product Manager Lisa Robson, her Autumn-Winter 2010 EXTREM™ range shows how women’s outdoor gear knows no bounds.
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he days when the only outdoor gear for female adventurers was a smaller, unflattering and badly fitting version of the men’s product but in a pastel colour are thankfully over. Now female athletes are enjoying high performance outdoor gear that looks good, too. Take Berghaus’ new Autumn-Winter 2010 EXTREM™ range for women, a collection of dynamic styles, flattering silhouettes and bold colours, with all the technical features for which Berghaus is renowned. “I think this is the best Berghaus women’s range yet,” says Lisa Robson, Product Manager for Berghaus. “We’ve really focused on what our female customers need and desire from our brand, and we know they want clothes that perform Lisa Robson, pictured as well as the men’s versions, without gimmicks, but also left, discusses material options with samples that look good and work with their body.” That’s why, for technician Anne Davitt instance, the women’s Furnace lightweight down jacket has the same high performance specifications as the men’s “We know our female customers want clothes that perform version but it’s cut to fit with stitching angled to as well as the men’s versions but that also look good” accentuate the lines of a woman’s body. a mixed colour palette that will appeal to a cross section of During development, Berghaus products are put through tastes,” says Lisa. Often women will choose softer, lightweight their paces by a wide range of testers in real-life situations, fabrics but do not want to compromise on performance. including Berghaus athletes and professional mountain guides Lisa works closely with Fiona Kitchman, Chief Designer based in Chamonix, France (see page 26). “They are not afraid of the EXTREM™ range. “Fiona has done a huge amount to tell us if a product doesn’t work as well as it could,” says of research into how and why women lose body heat more Lisa. “If we need to make improvements, we go back to the quickly than men,” explains Lisa. “We particularly feel the cold drawing board.” in our hands and feet. That’s why we’ve incorporated features Customer feedback is also important. “I’ve been amazed at such as thumb loops on the cuffs, fleece-lined pockets and just how passionate our customers are,” says Lisa. “They really insulated collars into the EXTREM™ women’s range.” want to help us make our products the best they can be.” With women’s needs now shaping high performance Getting the balance between style, fit and performance is clothes, there has been an unlikely outcome. “Features on the vital. “In our EXTREM™ range, for instance, we only use seam women’s products have been so well received that men are now asking for them,” laughs Lisa. “We’re even being asked lines where we need them because it’s a highly technical about an equivalent of our purple berry sheen colour for men!” product—you want every ounce to count so you don’t want to make it unnecessarily complicated or bulky.” BERGHAUSONLINE Colour is also a key consideration for women. “Our research For more details of the EXTREM™ range and a host of kit and shows that there’s a huge split between fans of pink and those accessories, see pages 24 and 25 and go to www.berghaus.com. ™ who dislike the colour, so this year’s EXTREM range has www.berghaus.com
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THE GEAR FACTOR
PRODUCTS
Like yo you, our clothes and accessories always welcome a challenge, whethe whether it’s to keep you warm, cool or dry—and all with the durability, high pe performance and style you’d expect from Berghaus.
WOMEN’S
GORE-TEX® CLOTHING
GORE-TEX technology has been helping people explore the outdoors for over 30 years. Berghaus was the first European outdoor company to use GORE-TEX® fabrics in its clothing in 1977. It’s an association Berghaus are proud to continue. ®
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SANCTITY JACKET Its abrasion-resistant and waterproof fabric makes this 2-layer GORE-TEX® Pro Shell jacket ideal for ski-touring and ski-mountaineering, features include a removable snow skirt.
FURNACE DOWN JACKET An extremely light and packable down jacket perfect for cold weather climbing and mountaineering. Use as a midlayer or wear on its own in drier conditions.
CHOGORI JACKET Designed for women, this durable, lightweight, 3-layer GORE-TEX® Pro Shell jacket, worn left, offers ultimate comfort and protection from the elements. Includes a fixed hood and ventilation zips.
HIMAL PANTS Perfect for walk-ins and winter routes, these pants, worn left, can withstand general heavyduty use in the mountains. Stretch fabric ensures protection and unrestricted movement as well as protection from the elements.
2-Layer GORE-TEX® Pro Shell
3-Layer GORE-TEX® Pro Shell
Meets the demands of outdoor professionals and serious enthusiasts. ! Engineered for extended and extreme conditions. ! Extremely tough, extremely breathable, durably waterpoof and windproof. ! A specific GORE-TEX® membrane is laminated to the inside of the outer material. ! The inside of the GORE-TEX® membrane is protected by a separate lining for better wearing comfort and versatility.
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Moisture vapour escapes Rain and wind stay out Outer material GORE-TEX® membrane Lining
Meets the demands of outdoor professionals and serious enthusiasts. Engineered for extended and extreme conditions. Extremely tough, extremely breathable, durably waterpoof and windproof. ! A specific GORE-TEX® membrane is firmly bonded to a tough outer material and a robust inner lining for longer life under extreme conditions. ! !
Moisture vapour escapes Rain and wind stay out Outer material GORE-TEX® membrane Lining
www.berghaus.com
MEN’S
SANCTITY JACKET A 2-layer GORE-TEX® Pro Shell jacket with breathable fabric. Perfect for ski-touring and ski-mountaineering. Includes a fully adjustable, roll-away “Raptor” hood.
IGNITE HOODY A PrimaLoft® jacket that is ideal for cold weather climbing and mountaineering. Wear it as a mid-layer or on its own in drier conditions.
ATTRITION JACKET This 3-layer GORE-TEX® Pro Shell jacket, worn right, offers freedom of movement with a cut made for climbing and a host of technical features to help you in harsh conditions.
COULOIR PANTS These versatile, all-round, 3-layer GORE-TEX® Pro Shell trousers, worn right, are built for top performance, durability and freedom of movement. Provides you with comfort in extreme conditions.
KIBO GTX® BOOTS These GORE-TEX® Performance Comfort mountain boots combine support, durability and comfort. Ideal for Alpine use or Scottish winter climbs.
EXPEDITION 80 RUCSAC This 80-litre rucsac is the ultimate ate all-rounder. Our updated pdated Cyclops® III backk system ensures improved comfort, ort, fit, head clearance nce when climbing and load transfer. BERGHAUSONLINE Check out our full range of clothes, accessories and equipment at www.berghaus.com
www.berghaus.com
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